Replacing coolant bypass valve to correct P26B7 fault in 2014 Ford Escape

Our 2014 Ford Escape got the P26B7 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for a Coolant Bypass Valve failure.
I went with the OEM part from Ford for about $60
It didn't take long at all to replace this part.
Simply remove a few clips and the IAT wire from the intake tube to make room to remove the coolant hose and unscrew the two 8mm headed bolts.
Me sure to see the next video of the old part dissected to see why it failed.

[@jimlewisii1658]

Thanks for the video saved me over $200 and a 10 minute repair.

[@jaradgarren2740]

Thanks for the help. I had to remove the bolts first in order to take off the hose clamp. The hose was difficult to remove from the old valve... I had to use a slot screwdriver to pry it off. Saved $$$$, thanks again!

[@PistolSmokee]

Awesome video! Thanks heaps

[@M3dunkman]

Check the coolant outlet it’s best to replace both at the same time

[@HolmesFans2]

How big of a pain might it be to get the two bolts off if I don't have the angled ratchet tool?

[@HolmesFans2]

When this part fails do you have any idea in what position it's failing in? I read that this is to cutoff coolant to the engine during cold temps. Seems like a driveability issue if these always fail in the closed positions. Or is it a straight 50/50 shot?

[@FieldGuidetoDIY]

What a GREAT video!!! The two camera shots were very helpful. Gonna have to tackle this today. Did you have to use Permatex on the o-ring? Thanks for posting!

[@gregorywillis8400]

Awesome and efficient.

[@schneiderjoachim1588]

I just drained the coolant. Then removed the part. Then did a coolant flush with the new part in

[@coxdroneservices]

Is there any issue with not draining the coolant and refilling while doing this repair? I've been reading that introducing air into the coolant system can put you at risk of overheating. Does the air go away on it's own? or how does that work? I'm getting ready to do this repair myself, but would like to avoid draining the system as well as potentially worse problems down the line if I don't drain it.

[@hackfreehvac]

Sometimes you can have an airlock in the upper area of an engine such as the cylinder head (highest point) and the water connections are all lower. If a little bit of air got in then it will burp out. Check and add water after it runs and cools. If you loose a lot of water then you may need to bleed the air. If you don't know how it may be something to leave to the shop given an overheat can turn into a warped head etc.

[@nancyfeezell]

Does anything need to be done with programming after installation?

[@hackfreehvac]

I cleared my codes but in reality you should be able to just install the part and drive it a few times until the check engine light goes off on it's own once the issue does not reoccur for a few drive cycles.

[@nancyfeezell]

hackfreehvac thank you

[@pokitisme756]

what program are you using to rad the codes.

[@hackfreehvac]

That was FORscan. It's basically free too.

[@hackfreehvac]

You'll need a OBD II to USB interface. I got mine for like $30 on Amazon.

[@slikot564]

Was this causing your engine to stall at idle?

[@hackfreehvac]

No. The only indication was the check engine light and DTC indicating the part was faulty.

[@nelsonzelaya141]

hey. 3 months ago i replaced the same the coolant by pass solenoid and now the check engine light came on again with the same code trouble. what you think it could be the problem? if the part it's new and its still failing.

[@hackfreehvac]

Internet purchased part?

[@nelsonzelaya141]

@@hackfreehvac no. i bought it on o'reilly, i think that parts like these should be better to buy'em from the Dealer because the parts from o'relly or autozone aren't originals and that's what it makes it more complicated in getting the right part.

[@Drewski914]

@@nelsonzelaya141 ever get that figured out?

[@bethmarie5220]

I replaced this same thing last summer and the check engine light is on again.. I figured imma just order the motor craft part from now on since it seems like Ford wants to screw you over with off brand parts from autozone or advanced auto parts

[@mc.8995]

@@bethmarie5220 from what I was seeing when changing mine, the valve was stuck open from a piece of trash from the fluid running through it. If this failure repeats itself, then a good flush of the engine block should take care of that.

[@VeloJonny]

Hi, I just watched your video and was able to change my solenoid out quick and easy. Super easy….BUT now my wife saints her heater isn’t blowing warm. Any ideas or has anyone experienced this?

[@hackfreehvac]

Well, if the water is low it won't have water to pump into the heater core so hopefully it isn't that! LOL Maybe something is unplugged? It has now been a few years since I did the repair so I don't recall too much about the layout.

[@RedArwBus]

Make sure you get the Ford orange antifreeze to fill/top it off

[@Lucky8s]

Hi. I was recently quoted $900 for repairing this part. Saw your video and really wanted to try to fix it myself. Do you mind putting a list of tools I should have for the repair?

[@robotfactory205]

Chanelock pliars, 1/4in socket with extension and one of those bendy adapters. That's really it! Oh, and maybe a drain pan to catch the coolant that you WILL leak all over the floor.

[@AppleProxy]

great job, thanks for sharing!!

[@swldn]

Will this cause air in the coolant ?

[@hackfreehvac]

Shouldn't. The system is sealed. Air usually enters from service and not getting it all out.

[@johnnyhvac3444]

What was the symptoms you where experiencing?

[@hackfreehvac]

It had a diagnostic code. Check engine light. No driving symptoms.

[@mikhailhunter5277]

Ford is charging me $1400 for this

[@patmurphy2472]

Electricity and wet fluids don't mix well. Guck does no help. nice job.

[@garywatson8602]

Next time check out partgeek.com for your parts

[@Jedi_Luke]

Leave it to Ford to add odd ball parts that are silly and could've been avoided. 🤦🏽‍♂️