2014 2015 MAZDA CX5 How to Change REAR Brake Pads Brake Job Tutorial

[@chrisp7165]

Thank you for the video. While I've done brake jobs on my other Mazdas in the past, they are 2005 models and the job is just a bit different when it comes to the brake pads. So this video definitely helped in letting me know what to expect before I took anything apart. I would also like to add a suggestion to anyone who may read this comment. Do yourself a favor and purchase a replacement set of caliper bolts and pins from Auto Zone. They sell them in sets of 2 pins and two bolts for the front and rear for about $15 a set. I've done about 5 or so brake jobs on my car's over the years. Never in a million years would I have thought a caliper bolt would snap in half but sure enough, that's exactly what happened when I was tightening my last caliper bolt, by hand mind you and not with a torque wrench. Luckily I was able to spin the broken part of the bolt out of the pin with my finger tip. However, I still needed a bolt. Without the bolt, you're screwed and the car isn't going anywhere. The local Mazda dealership was my first call and of course they didn't stock them. It would take a week before they could get me a bolt. Second call was to Advance Auto. Again they sold a set online but of course they didn't stock it in the store. Finally my last call was to Auto Zone and they had 3 sets on hand!!! THANK GOD!!! So while some may think my suggestion is a bit of overkill, if the bolt breaks on you, you might have a really hard time obtaining a set immediately. It's just a suggestion that would have saved me a lot of time and anxiety had I had a set on hand. I still have to do the front oads but I can tell you I won't be doing them without a backup set of bolts at this point. Thanks again for the video!

[@jakeguitar01]

Great advice. I have never broken one of those bolts, but its good to have them on the side just in case you do. Here is a link to buy them. They are not very expensive at all. amzn.to/2IR3jss

[@chrisp7165]

Trust me, I was shocked when it happened. I was turning it with a regular socket wrench but the bolt just wouldn't fully tighten. It just kept spinning just a little bit no matter how hard I wrenched on it. Finally it just gave way and the wrench did a full rotation with almost no resistance and I knew instantly something really bad just happened. Just one of those things that you don't plan for so I thought I'd just throw it out there. It was definitely a high anxienty situation not knowing if I was going to be able to readily get a new bolt. Honestly though, it was probably a blessing in disguise. If the bolt was able to snap with just the force of my arm strenght, it could have been disasterous had it snapped while my wife was driving.

[@CraigersL57]

This was the best video I found for changing the back breaks. I tried really hard with a C clamp to open up the caliper, but I couldn't get it to budge. Everyone's videos just show them slipping the shoe on and it with ease. Yours was the only one with all the details I needed, right down to the metal prong on the new pads. Blessing from Boise, Idaho.

[@RobertBradleyRSB]

This was very helpful and informative. Thanks so much!

[@7thplanet121]

Thanks. I made multiple mistakes because of someone else’s instructions. Now I know what I did wrong. That little tab on the guide and the worn signal tab had me.

[@jakeguitar01]

Glad this helped!

[@proscriptus]

It also wouldn't hurt to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir so there's no suction when you're done.

[@jimv1484]

Thanks for the vid....we have the squeelers correct the first time then went back and changed it to incorrect. Now that I have seen your vid I realize we have to go back in and slide the squeelers on top of the hardware. It really make no sense to add an obstruction under the ear of a brake pad but I do believe you have it correct. As for the one guy mentioning the piston cross lining up with the nib on the pad....well we got that wrong too :(

[@burthjohnson]

Thank you very much for the video. It was awesome to watch. Straight to the point, quick and easy and very easy watching and understand.🤙🏽

[@vondrook4]

Awesome, very informative. Is the process the same for the 2013 model?

[@gregoryhudson123]

Great video, do you happen to know what size the wheel nuts are as I havn't got a wheel wrench? Many thanks again!! 👍🏻😎🇬🇧

[@michaelp3076]

I have the same type of caliper on my 2010 toyota and it can be very hard to compress while turning the piston so what I do is use my c-clamp. With the piston tool in place on the piston I tighten up my c-clamp on the tool and use a screwdriver to give the piston tool a quarter turn and then tighten up the c-clamp. It take a bit of patience and time but it works. Also I would always re-grease the caliper pins.

[@hrmfa]

The piston on the back caliber needs to be positioned correctly, so it matches the notch on the pad. Look how the piston is setting before winding it back. I would also change the shims/brake hardware, and check the glide pins.

[@aytacdede81]

exelent video do you have for the front side also ?

[@tomnguyen1802]

Didn’t know to compress the piston back in I need the special tool, this is my first Mazda so now I know. I normally is that thing you mentioned earlier about this clamp and I squeeze it back in.

[@mortenak1967]

Changed pads and rotor was done in about 30 min pr. side. Tanks for the film.

[@jakeguitar01]

+Morten Andre Karlsen ----> excellent. Glad it helped.

[@johnhabart3872]

What about cleaning and lubricating the caliper pins and sliders? Proper torquing of the caliper bolts and lug nuts? Nice video, but you missed a couple of key steps.

[@jakeguitar01]

All good points. Its a good idea to lube those points up and torque the bolts properly. Thanks!

[@sergjay7993]

hand torque buddy nice and snug no need for more by the book bs

[@AutoXFIB]

Great video! Any idea if the calipers on the CX-5 are also shared with the Mazda6? I need to see if I have some damage to the rear calipers and the e-brake (Mine is loose now) and I figure I might as well see how the pads are looking and replace them if necessary.

[@jakeguitar01]

Hi. I dont think the parts are interchangeable, but the procedure is most likely the exact same. Here are the links to the schematic breakdown of the the rear brakes on both of these cars. You can compare the part numbers.... www.mazdapartswebstore.com/a/Mazda_2014_CX-525L-AT-FWDTouring/_53893_6224152/BRAKE-COMPONENTS-REAR-SUSPENSION/5470550.html www.mazdapartswebstore.com/a/Mazda_2014_6ATTouring/_53893_6381130/BRAKE-COMPONENTS-REAR-SUSPENSION/5442665.html

[@flyingjeff1984]

Please Note: The inner pad showed much more wear than the outer. That means the caliper pin(s) might have been seized. Either way, inspecting the pins for lube or corrosion is good practice.

[@vegeta420z]

I just did the pads and rotors on my 2013 cx-5. Now ot sounds like the rotor is making light contact with caliper brakes, or maybe its just contacting the pads, but its doing this without me touching the brake pedal. I've yet to take the wheel off and look at it but I work 7bdays a week and just haven't had time. Any ideas why that'd be scraping?

[@alanwbelcher]

Thank you for posting this. Very helpful. I suggest that you NOT put the wheel upside down on the ground. Many wheels have an offset that makes the outside edges extend beyond the tire. You will most likely scrape your rim if you do this. If you do lay the tire under the car place it facing UP to prevent scratches and scrapes to your expensive alloys.

[@georgecojocaru9015]

Hi, any guidance/tutorial for How to Change REAR Brake Pads Brake with EPB Motor /Mazda CX 5 2016. Thanks and regards!

[@ravenmadx]

Thanks for this video! I am changing my wife's CX5 brakes this weekend.

[@jakeguitar01]

You're welcome. I hope the brake change went well. The Mazda brake pad change is an easy job.

[@ravenmadx]

+jakeguitar01 It went perfect only about 30 min tops. Thanks again!

[@jakeguitar01]

Excellent! Glad it worked for you...

[@trackforlife127]

My cx5 2015 makes a hissing sound when driving 5mph and randomly brakes while I’m driving. Just happened right now. There was a weird smell coming from my back tires. Any advice on what it could be?

[@richardmaxwell5371]

That looks super easy. Good to know about the brake piston tool.

[@jamescharman6193]

how much ft-lbs of torque did he apply when he stood on the lug wrench?

[@pzb4]

great video - thanks! where do you get the piston tool? auto parts stores have them or do i need to go to a dealer?

[@jakeguitar01]

You can get it here: amzn.to/2xP234f

[@therealsparkman]

Thank you very much for taking the time to make and share this video. I was thinking about doing my own brakes not realizing that it was that rudimentary. A few things to be careful of, but I believe that you have pointed them out well in this instructional video. Question though? Would replacing the front calipers be the same process as the rear calipers? Also, is there something else that you can use to reset the piston back to its resting position other than purchasing that adapter? Thanks! Cheers!

[@ZeroColdx911]

Great video! But you forgot to grease the guide pins

[@woodsman8992]

Good sound, video, and content. Thanks!

[@technocar2]

The cross on the caliper piston when wound back should have the hollow part of the cross at the bottom so it aligns with the metal pip on the inside brake pad. Otherwise it will wobble and not allow proper adjustment.That is what the pip is for in the center bottom of the pad. Yours were not aligned when you refitted the caliper.

[@proscriptus]

I'm trying to figure out what you mean by "hollow part." is it the darker section of the piston cross that you can see at 6:04? That would be aligned so it's closest to the hub, right?

[@weaselxp3663]

Aligned so that the flat metal part of the cross isnt resting on the pip, otherwise the piston isnt flush with the back of the brake pad.

[@Keltik55]

when compressing, should the rubber seal be compressing back inside? or does it still stay outside of it?

[@mortenak1967]

Rubber don't go all the way in, it proud little bit out.

[@traxxasftw]

Bought the tool, am spinning the caliper, but it will not go in. Thinking I have to have a screw type to also put preasure on it? BTW I see you have two sets of hands there, I'm alone and damn this is tougher than it should be. 20 minutes of torquing and slipping and the damn caliper does not seem to have moved at all.

[@maui5480]

Do I need the piston tool for a 2017 CX5?

[@jakeguitar01]

Most likely, yes.

[@jakeguitar01]

amzn.to/2xP234f Buy it here.

[@music1981ify]

dont have to bleed the brake line?

[@daviddaytona]

Excellent video. Thanks so much for posting.

[@jakeguitar01]

You're welcome.

[@kevingraham1563]

This tutorial was VERY informative and helpful. That brake was kinda wankie but I'm so glad I got it! Now I'll rent it out to try to recover the $9 I paid for it(HAAAHAAAA)!!

[@epicpandas456]

Where u get the compression tool?

[@jakeguitar01]

hello. That brake tool I bought at autozone. it's about $10. you can get it at ANY auto parts store...

[@mustangguy1219]

Do you have a specific name for it or even better could you add a link to where we can find it?

[@jakeguitar01]

Hi. Here it is: goo.gl/QOZAes I also put it in the description. Thanks for watching my video, my friend.

[@mustangguy1219]

You sure did. I see that now. Thanks for the awesome video. You made the job easier.

[@jakeguitar01]

You're welcome. Good luck with your brake job...

[@sylviogiroux5817]

Very well done.

[@sophiemosley625]

All the wheel nuts are supposed to be tightened in sequence that includes the lock nut.

[@trinibumblebee]

Thanks for these videos. You just helped me keep some hard earned cash where it belongs. IN MY POCKET!

[@sbalak]

Great video! Thanks!

[@Earthmom227]

Great video! I feel like I can do this!

[@GasparGutierrez]

I broke an axle using the factory provided lug wrench and using my weight. Never again. It was such a pain replacing that

[@RiksModellbau]

Thanks for showing this.

[@jamesa6272]

No electric parking brake?

[@jakeguitar01]

Not on this model year.

[@rmcdaniel423]

4:41 = LOL I almost spit out my drink when I had to laugh. Did you have a rat chew that thing open? What the heck?!?

[@weaselxp3663]

14mm or 15?

[@mortenak1967]

14 mm

[@miguelthedadcookhandyman9125]

you didnt put brake lube on the sliding point of the pad to the anchor bracket. Thats why your brake previous were unevenly worn, lack of lubrication

[@athenaexclamation4167]

is the handbrake on when you do this???

[@chrisp7165]

Maybe at first when loosening the lugs but there is no way you can do the job on the rear pads with the E Brake pulled up. You would never be able to remove the caliper without releasing the E Brake.

[@mariafullwood5473]

Best Example ever!

[@marfigue777]

I dont know about this because mazda says that you shouldn't push the piston clockwise instead push it straight in!!!

[@harryriveraortiz1922]

Gracias 🚘👍

[@morgenveres3945]

Good stuff!

[@kennithlibby]

It be nice if I had a 3rd hand

[@jachocoteaja]

what the frak.... no questions answered????

[@beri232]

Did the rear brakes on your CX-5 squeal from brand new? We paid $38,000 Canadian for our brand new 2016 Mazda CX-5 and the piece of shit has squealed since it hit 5,000km. The dealerships told us this was normal for these cars. I love paying $38,000 for a squealy piece of shit that turns everyones heads at traffic stops in the summer months. First and last Mazda we ever buy!

[@jakeguitar01]

+beri232 ---> Hi Beri232. No, I have never heard of that. You definitely have a problem with the brakes if they squeel. If the car is still under warranty and the dealership is screwing you around, I'd go straight to the manufacturer and level a complaint. If you talk to the right person, they will call the dealership directly and get the brakes changed. You probably have a bad brake pad, rotor, or sensor. Also, I don't know about Canada, but we have the lemon law in the US. It basically states that if you have to bring the car back 3x for the same problem and they don't get it fixed, they will buy the car back from you. I did it once on an Isuzu rodeo years ago. It's a pain in the ass but it's possible to get done. But, u probably have a simple issue that they should be able to fix if they are pushed a little bit.... thanks for watching my video.

[@pinkisforpimps]

beri232 go to an independent shop (not the dealership) that specializes in brakes. They will know how to properly lubricate your brakes to get rid of the squeal. The dealer lied by saying that is normal.

[@beri232]

Mazda finally took the car in and turned the rotors, replaced the pads and lubricated the slides. 3000kms later they are squealing just as bad as before. I think the pads they use are complete garbage. I'll likely replace the pads and rotors with EBC. I am so not impressed with this car or Mazda. I would not buy another one.

[@pinkisforpimps]

Yes, I think going with aftermarket pads and rotors will be a good idea (just make sure to use the same brand pads and same brand rotors together). If you google "mazda warped rotors" you'll see its a common problem. I think it has to do with them prioritizing performance over long-term reliability. Also, make sure whoever lubricates your caliper guide pins uses SILICONE PASTE. Makes a big difference.

[@Ronbo442]

Wife bought a new 2014 CX-5. Now has 147,000 miles on it. Second set of pads and rotors. Never squeeled.