2014 Ford Escape Dash Removal and Evaporator Replacement

In this video I go step by step to remove the dash and replace the evaporator on a 2014 Ford Escape.
In the course of the video I mentioned a tool I used to remove the heater hoses. I bought mine from Matco, but it’s also available from Lisle (probably the same company that supplied Matco). Here is the link… Lisle 39200 Heater Hose Disconnect for Ford 2.0L , Blue a.co/d/9Bmf2i2

[@williammiller1659]

This was outstanding! Step-by-step removal and step-by-step re-installation. You took the time to show us what tools are needed (Harbor Freight was easy for us one-time repair guys). What more could anyone ask for? Nothing, it as great! Thank you so very much for making the video! Again, it was perfect!

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Thanks! I’m very glad it helped.

[@Cokie907]

Rumor has it that Ford dealers are charging thousands to do this replacement by claiming the dashboard needs to be removed and a "heater box" needs to be replaced along with the broken door actuator. Btw, the door actuator is a $15 part on Rock Auto. I think I'll go your route with the cluster removal, even though it looks a bit insane.

[@kevinolmos80]

Great video! Thank you so much this will help a lot when I have to take my dash off my 2016 Ford Escape

[@samuelselby5698]

Real nice! I hope I won't need it but if I do I'll be coming back to your site. I'm always looking for repair videos on the 2014 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0l ecoboost. Thanks Man

[@xDJLAFx]

Thank you so much for this video! just removed the dash on my 2016 1.6L. same process. very well done on the video, i know its hard to work with 1 hand, and get the right camera angles with the other. you did a very good job and this video saved my life. THANK YOU!

[@RedeemedMechanic]

You’re welcome! I’m glad it helped!

[@gumbytaylor6234]

Thank you very much for making this video with great detail. Just did the job to my wife's car as a backyard mechanic kind of guy. Would of been 10 times harder with out your video.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Great! I’m glad it helped.

[@xvsxnick4415]

Very nice video helped me flat rate the shit out of that job. Found that you can just loosen those bolts up and pull them back enough to remove the dash without removing the doors.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

I was wondering if that would work, but it didn’t take long to remove the doors and it actually made the dash work a little easier with them out of the way! I was fortunate to have a safe place to store them, though. Back when I was a flat rate tech at a shop I’d have been worried some lubie would knock them over.

[@rtz549]

Excellent video on how Ford shouldn't design a dash. Way too complex and expensive.

[@kevinzhang5842]

Great video!!! But if you remove the glove box first, you may find another way to replace the evaporator without remove the dashboard. Should be much much easy! The only issue is the evaporator aluminum line may need to bend little or just cut it and connect back. I will try to work on it.

[@arturogomezify]

I am a service advisor at a ford dealership in Maryland and my customer was just charged $3500 for this job for this same car.

[@chrisstrowbridge8256]

Link to part please.

[@AlGibson-q8s]

They are ordering an oem part. They have tried many things since the original install because of a leak in the evap. Because the dash was out changed the heater core too. They now think the heater core is the issue.

[@keithm39]

If you take the four screws out for the glove box it'll be a lot easier to take the evaporator out

[@AlGibson-q8s]

I had the evaporator (pinhole leak) and heater core changed on 2014 Escape last year. There has been an intermmitant howl since. Only happens when air is on. Also the vents were mot working properly. The shop has taken the dash out, changed some vent motors but the howl is still there. AC is working. They cant find where the sound is coming from. Ideas??

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Hate to say it but there is probably a door not sitting correctly. That can happen when the ac case is reassembled. They may have to remove the whole case and look. You have small “doors” that direct the airflow inside the case. When you replace the evaporator, you have to take them out of place and put them back. If one is misaligned afterward, you will have an internal airflow leak, which can cause both noise and poor flow.

[@samuelrivera341]

I would change the evaporator

[@AlGibson-q8s]

The garage has adjusted the doors and replaced a few door actuators but the howling persists at times. Took part of the dash out as well to try and source out the location. They have spent extra time at no charge and frustrated they are over this.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

One other thing I’ve experienced before was after installing an aftermarket evaporator. It wasn’t on a Ford, but maybe a similar thing is happening. I put an aftermarket evaporator in a Toyota once and after the job was done the case would whistle when the blower speed was in the higher range. Turned out it was due to the different style of fins on the evaporator. I traded it out for an OEM one and the noise went away.

[@oscargaleas8013]

Gracias hermano, con su video pude cambiar mi evaporador Saludos desde Honduras 🇭🇳🎉

[@AlGibson-q8s]

Had my evap changed out on 2014 escape a few weeks ago. Cold now but when AC is on there’s a howling noise and it can be loud. They changed the blower motor, no change. Going back in and they have to take dash out again. At least now I know why it’s a 13 hour job or so. Thanks for the video.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Wow, that’s a big job to have to re-do. I hope they figure it out. I had a similar issue once. I Had installed an evaporator that worked perfectly, but it would whistle internally when the a/c was running. Turned out to be a machining error inside the evaporator that was sounding a note as the refrigerant moved past it. Installed a different core and the problem was solved, but I made sure the vendor who supplied the defective one compensated me for the labor.

[@samuelrivera341]

Great video

[@dnbstreamer]

Hey man, I know its a different car but on my 2009 Ford Escape I am trying to get to the Smart Junction Box. Do you know if that is going to be on the driver side and where under the dash? My interior lights don't turn on when you press the button but when you open the door they turn on so I know the ground is good. I think its a relay in the smart junction box thats where the buttons get their power and when you open the door its gets power from somewhere else.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

According to Mitchell on Demand, the Smart Junction Box on a 2009 Escape is in the center section of the dash. So check for a panel under the radio/ac control head.

[@dnbstreamer]

thank you so much for looking it up on Mithcell :)@@RedeemedMechanic

[@dnbstreamer]

if you look at the interior lights diagram for the 2009 escape you can see the over head lights share a ground so I think its the relay in the smart junction box... I hope its removable

[@javiervasquez1118]

No pude desconectar el cable de la palanca de cambios, como hago? Después del minuto 27 ayuda

[@7D9Z28]

Awesome work. Admire your skill and patience. My daughter has a 2013 Escape. Air blows cold and powerful out of the vents at start;50 degrees F. Drive the car for 30 minutes to an hour or so on the highway and temp rises and the volume of air flow out of the vents diminish. Shut down the car for a few and able to defrost the evaporator, I assume and goes back to cold air for another hour drive. Repeat the process. Going the simple route first and check for a blocked drain tube and dirty cabin filter. She said she felt water on her foot when she drives. I had drops come out of the vents when I turned off the AC and ran just the vent. Fingers crossed not a bad evaporator. 🤞We live in Melbourne. May email you if unsuccessful. Thanks for the video.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Thank you! That drain tube is best accessed by removing the cover in the passenger side of the center console. You can separate the tube from the air box there and check both directions for clogs. It’s a great place to check for refrigerant leaks in the evaporator case too.

[@samuelrichardson1128]

I would not install that evaporator. Wait a few days if you can and compare with a new one. If the same maybe go for it.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

It was definitely a hard decision to install it. I felt much more comfortable about it after leaving it overnight and finding no loss of vacuum. The owner needed the vehicle back and made the final decision after seeing the same footage I included in the video. Just saw this vehicle again the other day for other maintenance, all was good with the a/c.

[@cesarrodriguez3929]

I have questions to replaced the expansion valve on the escape 2015 you need to remove the dash borde or you can get from the motor?? Urgent answer

[@RedeemedMechanic]

No. You should be able to remove the cowl assembly below the windshield to gain access to the expansion valve.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

If you follow along the first 10 minutes or so, you’ll see me pull the cowl and at about 9:40 you can see the expansion valve.

[@thisguythatguy7472]

Do you know if this is the same process for a 2009?

[@RedeemedMechanic]

No. That’s a totally different body style. I don’t have a video for that body, but I know it’s a different process.

[@jarvisfrazier2206]

Hey question I have a 2017 f150 and when I turn the air on it’s only blowing hot. I’ve tried everything and even had to take it to two shops till I finally had to take it to the dealership where they said that they didn’t see any leaks but I had metal in my system and that it would be over 6 grand to replace the entire system. Is there a specific part or something to be replaced?

[@RedeemedMechanic]

If it truly has a bunch of metal flakes in the system, it means your compressor failed and sent those little bits of itself into the rest of the system. If you were to just replace the compressor, those metal bits would ruin the new one. So you have to get all that metal out of there. On older cars, you used to be able to flush some components clean, (like the condenser) but newer vehicles have very fine passages that don’t allow for flushing. So, this is a worst case scenario and would mean replacing the compressor, condenser, expansion valve, the suction and discharge hoses, the liquid line, and most likely the evaporator. I’d inspect the evaporator first by removing the expansion valve and using an inspection camera to look for evidence of debris. If you see any at all, go ahead and change it. At dealership prices, I can believe the quote they gave you. I’d shop around for a local a/c guy that might be a little more affordable.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

If it truly has a bunch of metal flakes in the system, it means your compressor failed and sent those little bits of itself into the rest of the system. If you were to just replace the compressor, those metal bits would ruin the new one. So you have to get all that metal out of there. On older cars, you used to be able to flush some components clean, (like the condenser) but newer vehicles have very fine passages that don’t allow for flushing. So, this is a worst case scenario and would mean replacing the compressor, condenser, expansion valve, the suction and discharge hoses, the liquid line, and most likely the evaporator. I’d inspect the evaporator first by removing the expansion valve and using an inspection camera to look for evidence of debris. If you see any at all, go ahead and change it. At dealership prices, I can believe the quote they gave you. I’d shop around for a local a/c guy that might be a little more affordable.

[@jarvisfrazier2206]

Thank you, if I may ask where are you located if you could work on it?

[@RedeemedMechanic]

@@jarvisfrazier2206 I am a mobile mechanic in North Brevard County Florida. However, for bigger jobs like extensive a/c repairs or engine work I typically use my personal garage in Cocoa.

[@jarvisfrazier2206]

You have a number I can get in touch with you with?