2014 Kia Forte 2.0 GDI Low Power, No Codes

[@mike-yp1uk]

This channel makes me lots of money so I give back by staying active in the premium channel. I've made master l1 tech status and I'm one of the best around. I can go with some of the best. I'm 💯 percent sure it's me duplicating this channel into my everyday work. Scope work is awesome.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you Mike! I know a lot of you guys stick around on premium, even though you've watched all the classes, as a way to continue to support my efforts, and it does not go unnoticed. It is guys like you that help me continue to produce content, even here on YT

[@rcrobertson9563]

SD I love your channel !!! I'm 66 years old and still work on problem vehicles every day. Thanks to guys like you, Eric, Ivan, and a few others I feel capable and relevant. It is truly possible to teach an old dog new tricks...lol

[@jonmic4232]

Another vid for my knowledge arsenal. Just changed jobs from a fleet garage to a used car lot.after 4 years of working on the same trucks and being ,well, bored with the same stuff. Your videos are a big help in refreshing my memory and gaining knowledge. Once again thank you.

[@onlyhuman383]

Just wanted to say you saved me alot of money I've got a 2016 Kia 2.0 and it falls on its face at 3500 rpm ran a scan on it and it came back as a evap problem . Totally shit scan . My car would use a quart of oil every oil change . I took big cat off and drilled 5 holes in it with a cement bit 1/12 ft long and now car runs like a rocket . Thanks a million for this vid .

[@MarkBolling]

Great Diagnostic Video: I have a 2014 Kia Soul that the power would drop off dramatically on slight inclines. After watching this video I replaced the Catalytic Converter and now it runs like a brand new car. THANKS

[@JoitaConstantin]

I was sure 100% that when you showed the map value when running that you have a plugged exhaust. I think is not possible to see more than atmosferic pressure because when running you the engine is sucking air even if the exhaust is plugged, but even without this reason, all times should be a negative pressure whe engine is running if the exhaust is free. So, you had a very good impresion at first but because you’re not a parts changer you tried also different scenarious and at the end still your first suspicion was the one that won. You are a great technician; keep it going.

[@crpth1]

SuperMadcox - While watching this video I was shouting vacuum gauge, vacuum gauge... My old school run to tool when codes are blank. In most cars there's no need to remove nothing to connect it. But the usefulness of the tool vs cost/time is quite amazing. In spite nowadays most "mechanics" don't even know what it is. Yeah, I guess I'm getting old. ;-)

[@BigDog50001]

I had a car in, low power complaint, MAP too high, thought maybe plugged exhaust. Nope, exhaust was perfect, it was a jumped timing belt. Great video Paul.

[@saltiness_incoming1407]

Hey I just wanted to shout out and say thank you. I've been a mechanic for a long time and had hard time with diagnostics for PCM it's never been really my speciality thanks to your advice and your ketchup on my rusty skills was able to diagnose my wife's car I had a bad PCM. Just wanted to say thank you for all the advice you put out there and info it really did help in a time of need thanks again

[@saltiness_incoming1407]

I got the PCM installed today and reprogrammed car runs like a dream....

[@movenchawira3553]

Paul you are the best technical teacher i have ever listened to ❤

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@mitchelrowe7363]

I'm proud of myself! As soon as you noticed no pwr I thought mice in intake or potato in exhaust!

[@sonofdad0621]

Misfire due to buildup on valves, notorious with GDI engines, pcv valve and blow by send all sorts of carbon gunk right back into the inlet.

[@mr.nobody4900]

I have a co-worker with same problem. I did a little poking on google and found out there is a recalled on Catalytic converter as you said in video. She took it to Kia it was repair at no cost to her. In her case she had O2 Sensor code Bank 1, Sensor 1 and Catalytic Deficiency code. Two Thumbs Up Mr. Danner

[@Brother2Jis_27s4]

Very common for the manifold converter to break up and plug the downstream converter. I've done quite a few. The manifold converter has 3 sections to it instead of one large medium and that makes it weaker and more susceptible (im guessing) to vibration from a motor mount or broken exhaust hanger... its usually just the last section of the manifold converter that breaks and the other 2 sections stay fine. I now only remove the downstream converter and will dump the broken stuff out and start the car and let it blow the remaining stuff out and then re install the converter. Even with the missing section of converter it doesn't set a p0420.

[@ScannerDanner]

Don't forget about the SD merch you see above me^^^^^^^^^ 100% of my proceeds will be going to charity. When I have the list complete, I will be putting them up on my website (who we will be helping). Right now I have a pro life group called the Human Connection that offers free ultrasounds to women considering an abortion and of course a ton of other benefits for these hurting woman. I also have Light of Life Rescue Mission (homeless shelter in Pittsburgh) and a list of about 5 or 6 more. I think I will probably only go with 3 charities for now, to get the most help we can to these people. So far with my merch being available for only a few days, we've raised about $150

[@Ashroyer86]

I like it. Pro life all the way.

[@ScannerDanner]

For sure! And to be honest, how could anyone, even those who are in opposition, not like the idea of giving a free ultrasound to a woman considering an abortion. The statistics of the mother keeping the child are staggering once they can see the little baby growing inside of them. Then to offer free counseling and prenatal care? What is not to like?? Oh wait, I know what it is, they also teach about the love of Jesus! And there in lies the real reason.

[@kirkwest6654]

This is great! I said last year if you get the Danner shirts id get one...

[@ScannerDanner]

Agree on these statements. The hypocrisy on the left is laughable. Anyway, mufflers don't get clogged unless it comes from the cat. So the only think left is to sell the job and warn the customer of the potential that they may need a muffler too, but you won't know until you drop the exhaust and look at the outlet of the cat. If pieces are missing, you need to go further. The other option is to drill a hole after the cat and take another reading

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Glad to hear that, Paul! As soon as my funds recover from a recent paramotor purchase (I'm gonna fly!!), I'll be buying a couple shirts. NICE work, man!! 👍👍 👍👍

[@chrisgallagher85]

This man is extremely intelligent. Bravo on this!! Cheers.

[@jamesbuttery3862]

Another Amazing diag. Danner. I always get nervous on some of your videos if your not sure which direction to go/get confused...im thinking in my head "..oh no, the day the has come! Here's the one that Danner cannot figure out!" Then just in time you figure it out. Once again, your one of the best in the game. Keep on Truckin!

[@kevinshasteen5682]

20:42 IDK why but the song "Moon Over Miami" began playing in my head, lol. Good stuff as usual. Leave it to Kia to have a diff spark plug thread pitch. At the beginning where you commented about no trouble codes, I was thinking...Its a Kia, codes or not, its got problems

[@carrillo1998]

Part throttle when watching map for a suspected exhaust is what I was taught. May be a bogus test but it has worked for me and verified with a vacc/press gauge or backpressure gauge. Shine light on me if I am completely wrong on that. Great video by the way!

[@wyattoneable]

Hello Paul. I know this video is from the past but man I hope your feeling good these days. Health is so important. Great video despite your illness. You hung in there like a trooper to give us good information.

[@jerfaulk8]

I completely agree with what you said about the customer bringing you the car. I remember when it became an aha moment for me. The customer may have no idea what they are talking about but chances are something is definitely wrong.

[@DAZ_SR]

at 18:07 I can see why you're starting to think about timing. Remember when the desired and actual VVT was? Really enjoy your thought process, but how you won't let yourself go to the next step until you've crossed off the obvious.

[@michaelszczys8316]

One of my greatest ' hair puller ' troubleshoots was where I changed a motor in a car ( old time- carburetor car ) hooked everything up and if it ran at all was very very slow idle. Hit any gas and it quit. Finally figured the old motor filled the cat up with a lot of oily carbon then it sat for a month. Plugged it up solid. Another tough solve, my daughter had jittery way of turning the key often resulting in partial starts that made engine try to run backwards. One time after doing so turning backwards a few turns made cam belt jump 3 teeth. It ran but only had about 10 or 20 horsepower and showed NO codes.

[@dominicdo]

Next time you suspect a restricted exhaust pull the upstream 02 and go for a drive, if the power comes back then it's a restriction in the exhaust. 5 Minute diagnosis.

[@chim_richalds3798]

Thank you very much . Great advice

[@spudbudy]

Great video but with all the lastest electronic test tools he still goes old school with a vacuum/pressure gauge LOVE IT!

[@airratchetjockey7605]

This is an oldie, it’s snowing out

[@arbez.nation]

Naaaa, That's just summertime in PA. Global warming and all...

[@andrewk778]

I always enjoy following your diagnostic thought process. You are the best. Thank you for sharing.

[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you again brother's Paul and Caleb. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.

[@Nobawde]

this is the kind of mechanic i need. i have a KIA and its doing the same thing this car is. except the low power it stalls when i idle in drive after the car warms up. having the crankshaft sensor checked actually TODAY LOL wish my mechanic did diagnostics like this guy by driving the car..

[@ScannerDanner]

If you are near Pittsburgh PA we can help you 😉

[@Nobawde]

@@ScannerDanner wow that's awesome man but im in NH but looks like the repairs i had done did the trick, the video helped confirm my suspicions even more. Keep doing great videos well keep supporting

[@jparso7150]

Out of curiosity what repairs did you do? I'm having similar issues

[@Nobawde]

@@jparso7150 i changed the sensor and the car stopped stalling. But ideals still feels very weak. Next thing replaced was my evap system, the case. They said not only did they changed my case but most the lines and valves with it. In total I only spent like 840 bucks but I also had my rear brakes done and an oil change and inspection. For just a evap system full overhaul is about 700 bucks so I got away pretty good. I also had history with the mechanic and stresses if they didn't wait to run a smoke test they would of found it sooner. It was a very small Crack in my case that was causing the evap code. But my ideal still feels alil sluggish and drops to the 500s sometimes when on a slight decline. Best luck

[@dahdah6458]

I wish this video released a month early because my girlfriend car had the exact issue. Just as mentioned in the video, it's the catalytic converter that restricted the exhaust flow. The early symptom is losing power when speeding up or going up the hill. The engine would hesitate to rev anywhere above 5000 rpm. For this Kia forte, the OEM catalytic is wielded as part of the exhaust system. We went to a mechanic and had them cut the OEM one out and wielded in the universal catalytic. *** $110 for labor and $150 for a MagnaFlow catalytic. FYI, any Kia with GDI engine seems to have issues with the piston ring that leads to excessive burning oil. The issue becomes more obvious when the engine is above 80,000 miles or closing to the end of warranty. If you suspect that your Kia is burning a lot of oil, have the dealer check it out before the warranty expire. That way you have the record on their database incase the issue become more serious and you want to file a claim for the replacement.

[@andrewfitzgerald5418]

Thanks Dan my gf has a 2016 Kia forte 2.0 gdi same problem started at 101k miles I thought fuel pump and vapor lock dealer is leaning towards exhaust. Guess their right. And yes 1 at of oil ever 1000 miles like clockwork since 80-90k miles

[@mike-yp1uk]

Hey Paul you could make way more as a tech but I appreciate that God has called you to be an instructor. Everything in my career field has changed since I went premium. Tools are only as good as the user. Lol

[@1fnjo790]

Don't really need a pressure transducer or scope .Even in open loop mode an exhaust restriction of that magnitude will cause a slow to rev kind of bogging sound when revving up an engine. After removing the upstream O2 sensors and briefly repeating the rev up to 3k you will immediately be able to tell the difference on how quickly it will now rev up and see a difference in engine vacuum on a gauge teed in to brake booster hose or pressure off EGR transducer or DPFE hose. Beware that there is some risk of uncorking upstream O2 bung holes. Besides risk of fire or heat damage to un-shielded surrounding items. It can also cause pieces of loose substrate to start circulating and jettison out the open O2 sensor holes at high speed or even swirl around the substrate back up into the exhaust manifold and possibly get ingested into cylinder with an open exhaust valve due to valve overlap at the start of the intake stroke. If anything shakes or rattles within the cat when rapping it with a plastic mallet, it might not be a good idea to rev up motor with the upper O2 bung holes open and risk circulating around loose substrate that could cause further engine damage if it hasn't already occurred.

[@alfonsoguzman2099]

Using a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold is easier for identifying a restricted exhaust.also checking backpressure at upstream O2 sensor

[@kevinkelley3657]

~1996 I worked on a Pontiac Grand Am. The car belonged to Enterprise Rent A Car, and they brought it in for warranty work because everyone who drove the car complained of low power along with a strange whistling noise. The problem turned out to be a huge ball of tape in the intake pipping of the engine. This was a one year old car. IMHO Honda engines rock, and the older ones ~1995 were speed-density. I can sympathize with your rear facing crack problem. This problem is usually caused by too many bowls of chili, and too many cold snacks in the evening. I once weighed 245, now it's more like 315, trust me, I know what I am talking about.

[@billrimmer5596]

These r the vids that give u all those followers. This is why I pay for premium. To thank u for all your old case studies. Premium is great for the scope classes. But this is what I want to c. U going to a car and filming what happens. Going on a test drive with your students. Breaking out the Verus. Fixing your old crap gauge. Soldering the bad wire on your MT2400 which by the way I have now. On the PT, remember the broken lead in the connector. U took it apart with us and resoldered and crimped. Fixed. When to call a computer. U said it. Basics. Take us to the diags. And turn on the camera. Caleb is great, if he is available. But if not, set up the tripod and SHOWTIME!!

[@JamesAutoDude]

Some mechanics are lazy like you were talking about and just assume the customer is crazy 🙄 so thanks for saying that part about the customer wouldn't bring it if something wasn't wrong!

[@Splashfun2000]

I know this is an older video but this may benefit someone owning a Kia and having low power issues and all the normal diagnosis, i.e., fuel pressure, compression, ignition checks out okay and even some of the common checks of the cat converter seem okay (the 1st or main cat converter that is). Long story short, my daughters 2011 Kia Sorento started acting up, low power, erratic shifting, most of the time no codes, checked ignition, checked fuel pressure, checked compression, did a back pressure test of the main catalytic converter and that seemed fine at idle, emphasis on idle, did not check it at higher rpm which turns out was a mistake, cat converter had just been replaced like 2 yrs earlier so did not think it was that. Pulled transmission and put in new torque converter, same problems, put in new fuel pump, map sensor, throttle body, same result. Finally took it in to dealer thinking/hoping that maybe the factory diagnostics would pick up something, they checked everything I did and said needed a transmission. I still was uncertain with that diagnosis (dealer wanted $3500+) so went and got a reasonably priced used transmission and tried that, same symptoms, driving me crazy by now, saw some comment online about taking out O2 sensor or loosening the connection on exhaust, did that and bingo. Turns out the second catalytic converter was plugged, all Kia's and Hyundai's have two, the 2nd one isn't monitored at all, it's just extra. So if you have a Kia or Hyundai acting up and all the normal checks you would do are normal, dig deep into the cat converters, both of them and don't take it to the dealer.

[@ScannerDanner]

yes sir, backpressure testing should ALWAYS be done at higher RPMs. The spec I use is no more than 2psi at 3000rpm in park. Thanks!

[@ronaldchurch6356]

@ 5:30 is that a bullet hole in the back seat? No wonder it won't run right, it is scared.

[@ScannerDanner]

lol, not sure

[@2aminitials]

Looks like a plastic pictogram button for the child seat anchors.

[@akanecortich8197]

GDI also has a Pressure Sensor on the high pressure fuel rail. That can become faulty and send faulty info to ECM. thus rich/lean can appear if pressure false high, false low psi. This would show on the LTFT

[@gregoryfairchild2460]

Good point P0420/430 codes usually true bc 02 sensors need to be good to mimic each other to set meaning nothing is getting converted to CO2/water vapor.

[@gregoryfairchild2460]

I have used my infrared temp sensor and took exhaust temp readings before cat/cat/after cat. Operating cat should increase temperature after the cat. Non functioning but flowing=no change. Clogged cooler after cat.

[@gregoryfairchild2460]

Flat rate..lol

[@Mikesky10]

In this case what i do is watch the MAP pressure, at idle was at 10 inch, in a perfect good engine when you increase the RPM and hold it in for example 3000 or 4000 the pressure should decrease around 2 inch because there Is more vacuum, but when the CAT Is restricted the MAP pressure increase very high, around 15 to 20 or i saw even higher than 20, the MAP is an electronic vacuum gague

[@DanWallis86]

Would a restricted intake drop the map sensor? The map sensor was staying at atmospheric pressure during WOT.

[@ScannerDanner]

Yes it would!

[@crazygouf]

Kias and hyundai GDI motors have a fairly common issue of injectors leaking usually causes misfires but could be a reason as to this cat melting down

[@tracycolorado]

another thing that you have to look at with low or no power is if the charging system and battery is good. worked on many a car who couldn't get out of its own way because of bad charging system

[@PistonShack]

Big Thanks to you Paul and your son for this Video Tutorial. Helped me with my truck diagnosis. Cheers!

[@CubasAutomotive]

I haven't had the pleasure of working on GDI systems yet. Not feeling left out for sure. I think you handled that well Paul. From my understanding, injectors like to leak on these, hence causing the cat to melt. Love to see a follow-up on this.... 👍👍

[@ScannerDanner]

No follow up unfortunately sis. Cat got replaced under warranty

[@albi2k88]

What about test with rising RPM on neutral and observe if MAP pressure drop down with rise of RPM. I think Paul showed this test method earlier. And I think exhaust gases backpressure dont rise pressure in intake manifold on wide open throttle because gases can escape to air filter.

[@ScannerDanner]

I've struggled using MAP data for plugged exhausts. Same with a simple vacuum test, I've seen them pass all of those tests with a minor exhaust restriction

[@fascistpedant758]

Haven't you experimented scoping MAP sensors? You might see over-atmospheric pulses on the scope. Scan data is too slow and processed.

[@rodx5571]

I was with the clogged cat early on. My cheap and easy/down and dirty test is just let it idle and put your hand near the exhaust pipe outlet, 99% of the time if it feels way too hot its a clogged cat (as a test for direction), fuel is burning in the cat, if possible i look at it with my thermal camera, or do the in cylinder transducer or back pressure test.

[@codysautodiagnosticsprogra8706]

Caleb’s editing and voiceover about the butt crack killed me LOL. Sometimes you got to take it old school if you don’t have the right equipment Paul. Always nice to see other ways to do things, but definitely would’ve love to see the WPS in cylinder.

[@ScannerDanner]

Haha he's getting very good at this. Cracked me up too. Thanks Cody!

[@jimmyrey3045]

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us!

[@adilmchichou5710]

Hello Mr danner I wanna be one day at your level I don't wanna say better because you're the master

[@xanderlander8989]

It really is all about Fundamentals. Thanks SD

[@manuellamas4747]

Do you have a video on the Pico pressure transducer in cylinder to check for a plugged exhaust

[@ScannerDanner]

yes, linked in the cards at the end of the video

[@ScannerDanner]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYCcYqZmeNSAlZY kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6DSnIlqr96Emrc

[@manuellamas4747]

ScannerDanner thanks looking at them now

[@mikeoneill7360]

I’m just curious, would the temperature inside the cat confirm any type of blockage when observed on the scan tool? Nice job overall Paul, thanks.....

[@chrismechanic2000]

from memory i think the temps would be about 250c at the front and slightly higher at 300c at the back of a working cat, i would imagine if it was plugged you would see lower temps due to the fact that the reaction would not be happening to raise the temps.

[@ScannerDanner]

Cat temp tests are too variable to rely on for absolute answers

[@Spelter]

Hey Paul, I had a Ford Escape with a melted cat with drove to our garage with misfire codes. After looking at the plugs, we say it needs new ones and one new coil. We put it back together and ot wouldn't start anymore. I saw exhaust gas coming out of the throttle body and said it is a plugged exhaust, but my friend, who thinks he knows everything on cars, refused the idea. Listen to him was a mistake of me, because he fired the parts canon at it: plugs, coils, cam sensor, airfilter, compression tests, a lot of Forscan checks.... After 2 weeks, I said we go back to the beginning and I pulled one plug, put it in the coil and used a jumper cable for the mass. This time, I let the fuel relais in the pcm and started the car. It ran and exhaust gas was coming out of the plug hole. He didn't believe it was the exhaust system, so I put the plug back into it, car is not starting. I even had to get a friend on the phone, who said the same thing. I removed o2 sensor of bank 1 and then bank 2, one at a time, it ran. It was cat number 3 what was melted. I use an angle grinder to open it, remove its contents and weld it up until they could afford a new one. Car ran like it should then. Moral of the story: Never listen to somebody, who has no basic knowledge of engines and use your brain. And thanks to you, I learned a lot in the last year and how to use and oscilloscope to find such problems. My friend has still problems with his VW Lupo, but after he told me I don't know anything at cars, he could fix his problems without me, and the Lupo sits since April now.

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice job my friend! Keep it up and people will start listening to you

[@Spelter]

@@ScannerDanner Thanks. Everytime, you test a coil or the cable, you should test the cable first if it is ripped or damaged. I got zapped today: www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/e2j06g/got_zapped_good_today_cable_was_broken_and_i/ *damn*

[@gnolthchgnatch377]

I found your video so INTERESTING and gives me knowledge about cars, I want to thank you for uploading nice video keep uploading thank you so much

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you, I will

[@dannymarcano9268]

Perfect video it sounds like the same problem that I'm having. Thanks. Would you know where I can find a flex pipe for a Kia forte 5 EX GDI I believe that the flex pipe got a hole from corrosion. And roasted the Bank 1 sensor 2. And now watching your video it just might have roasted the catalystic converter. It's my stepson's car, you know how it is 20 years old you have your first car and all you want to do is gas and go. Thanks again

[@DAZ_SR]

My dealership sells quite a few used kia's in the 90 to 100k range. Most have some sort of "no code" misfires which tend to act up when the coils get hot. That along with the cold start misfire from the GDI carbon issues. My guess is the common Cat Efficiency problem is 10's of thousands of miles of misfire rich. Your thoughts?

[@j.park17]

Instead of taking out the O2S and finding back pressure, could you have used a vacuum gauge on the intake to save time ?

[@ScannerDanner]

I have not found the vacuum gauge to be accurate for this type of testing. At least not enough for me to use it with confidence. Especially on systems that are only partially restricted

[@jaspergeh]

That’s what I usually do first just because it’s quick. May not give a surefire answer, but may tell you if your headed I the right direction.

[@iceyu2235]

A vacuum gauge is invaluable! Go where you want after that...

[@shakalpb1164]

Question: While giving 100% Throttle should´t the MAP show LESS Pressure then before?

[@ScannerDanner]

Engine vacuum tests can be misleading with restricted exhausts. The amount of restriction changes the results and sometimes it can even be missed.

[@lorenzohart9560]

Oreillys performance tool pressure tester adapter kit. Now available

[@AAA-br3cs]

A confusion in other videos you say if exast restriced then o2 goes lean but in this o2 not going lean .plz explain respected sir Danner and calib

[@ScannerDanner]

No, I never said an exhaust restriction will cause a lean condition. I said if you have a low power condition and your O2s go lean at WOT, you have a fuel delivery problem. If they go rich (like they should), next step is to test for a plugged exhaust. Hope that clarifies things for you. Thanks!

[@AAA-br3cs]

@@ScannerDanner ok sir .if exast is plug then how to diagnose that by scantool

[@AAA-br3cs]

Plz avil Whatsapp link ,I want to some data

[@everardocamacho5063]

Great video Mr scanner,happy new year 2020

[@nemanjadzombic6101]

Thank you for another PERFECT video!!!

[@phenixelkan1946]

what type of diagnostic machine are u using i need one

[@ScannerDanner]

Snap-On Verus

[@cynthiagriffith7636]

Could this be because of the catalytic converter?

[@ScannerDanner]

Yes, this was a converter problem

[@dominicdo]

what about looking at engine vaccum with a gauge, you can see exhaust restriction that way too.

[@noxagonal]

I have this issue, same car, engine and roughly the same mileage, sound pretty much exactly the same. Mine eats a lot of oil, I usually have to add more every 2 or 3 weeks. Can't find a leak outside the engine. I wanted to ask if you happen to see this, did this specific car also eat oil and if it did, where was the leak? Thank you for making this video, I have a better idea of what to do next.

[@ScannerDanner]

What type of oil are you using? Synthetic oils are good but if you have an oil burning issue, you will absolutely eat more oil if it's Synthetic. Use a conventional oil is my first suggestion.

[@noxagonal]

@@ScannerDanner I think it might be unrelated actually. I changed the spark plugs myself and noticed the top of my engine having a pool of oil (that my mechanic seemed to have missed). The coils are wet, except the tip of the coil. I think my plan for now is to take apart the exhaust, dump whatever is in there and put it back together, see if it helps. Then get some oil dye and confirm the gasket leak. After fixing the leak, and if it doesnt eat any oil for a while, I'll get a new catalytic converter. You have been very helpful and your videos are awesome, thank you.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@noxagonal that's from a leaking valve cover gasket typically. This needs fixed but is not the cause of your excessive oil consumption

[@noxagonal]

@@ScannerDanner I think my estimate was a little off, I had the oil pan changed about a month ago, it had a small hole on it from corrosion. I was checking the oil level again today and it feels like I lost about a liter (0.26 gal) of oil since the pan change. About 1600km (1000 miles) driven since. I don't know if a gasket leak alone could explain that amount, but there always seems to be a pool of oil on top of my engine. I'll check and clean the pcv valve too while I'm at it. I'll try a few things and see if I still lose oil afterwards, and try non-synthetic oil once I run out of ideas.

[@raviautoscanning]

You make me strong everytime sir...

[@amr-50]

Thanks danner very very good video we appreciate your help

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 Could a press gauge have been tapped on the intake to measure what you were trying to see in the map sensor? What does a cylinder pressure test indicate? How does it work? No worries if no time to answer. Thanks again!

[@ScannerDanner]

Watch the two videos I have listed in the end screen of this video!

[@brannn660]

Which cat was replaced? My kia is doing the same. Was it the manifold cat or the one under the car?

[@ScannerDanner]

Pretty sure there was only one?

[@brannn660]

I thought it theres one on the manifold together and the one down stream

[@elrober707]

"Full System Scan" Great quote!

[@ivandrago2557]

Hello can you tell me why you suspected intake restriction, if map sensor showed atmospheric pressure. Wouldn't be with intake restriction lower pressure, vacuum

[@ScannerDanner]

did I suspect an intake restriction? I may have simply mentioned that, but it wasn't by looking at MAP data

[@ivandrago2557]

Ok thanks for the answer

[@davidraezer5937]

ScannerDanner why would you see MAP above atmospheric pressure with a clogged cat? Would it be the pressure wave that occurs during valve overlap?

[@ScannerDanner]

Yes!

[@davidraezer5937]

Nice! Will add that to my bag of tricks.

[@nicknicu1787]

Wow,it's snowing in Pittsburg! 😁 I called the cat as well when I've heard that rattling type of sound at WOT. Great diagnosis, more ways to " skin a cat ". Cat! get it...? 👍

[@thoughtprovoked8030]

So what ended up being wrong with it? I have this same year Kia and the same exact problem. Thank you

[@ScannerDanner]

I'm pretty sure I covered this in the video. I believe this one had a plugged cat.

[@brianveltri3107]

Would a temp gun before and after cat verified this ?

[@ScannerDanner]

some like the temp test on cats, I NEVER have for restriction confirmation, too many variables

[@wagoosh78]

could u have used vacuum gage on the intake manifold watched for pressure increase (low vacuum ) old school way ?

[@ScannerDanner]

maybe, but definitely not the steady vacuum test while watching for it to drop. I think the key is to take an idle reading, then a 2500 rpm reading and they should be the same if not better at 2500. I just don't trust that test enough yet. My own issues I believe.

[@gaddygaddy2473]

Could it be the catalytic converters ?

[@josephwastaken7104]

my 2014 Kia forte just started stalling while in Idle. it also stalled while I was in the Car Wash, in Neutral. Took it to the dealer for service, no codes. they didn't do anything about it.

[@jackalbatross9486]

did the new cat fix the problem? I would love to see the rest of the trouble shooting on this forte. I have a issue with my 2017 kia forte ex 2.0 it goes through oil but it don't smoke or show leak spots. now recently started revving oddly under load. also no codes. did the cat swap fix it sir ?Any advice would be appreciated.

[@waltersenglish5778]

I have the same issue on a 2015 Kia forte 5 2.0 GDI. 130000 miles. It’s burning well over a quart of oil every thousand miles for about two years now. I suppose during that time my catalytic converter clogged up because at one point I couldn’t go above 50 miles an hour and I smelled burnt sulfur, I also remember rattling noises coming from the exhaust. I had a muffler shop saw the catalytic converter off and welded a new one on and the power is restored, but it’s still burning oil the same. I also still hear the rattling coming from the exhaust from time to time. I wonder if other exhaust components are clogged Or if the piston rings are worn. Anyway, I would recommend getting a muffler shop to just saw your old cat off and weld a new one on. It cost 400 bucks rather than 1500.

[@jackalbatross9486]

@@waltersenglish5778 thanks for the advice

[@kevinkelley3657]

Melted cats on newish vehicles usually indicate an unusually rich condition for long periods. Too much fuel through the cat will cause very high cat temps, and this will melt the cat if it is run this way for extended periods. I have seen cats so resticted that they whistled when the vehicle idled. Excessive oil usage can cause a cat melt down, but melt down is usually caused by excessively rich mixture through the cat. Upstream oxygen sensors with over 80k miles on them can cause excessive fueling.

[@33798]

@Scannerdanner Anyway there's a restriction in exhaust. What's my doubt is the rpm of engine reach up to 4000 rpm approx. But the speed of vehicle is just only reach up to 20 mph. What's your view about the power coming out of the transmission in this case.

[@ScannerDanner]

I promise you this was a restricted exhaust. Here is a video that will help give you confidence in what the backpressure test should look like with a clear exhaust compared to a restriction

[@33798]

@@ScannerDanner Are you referring to this Kia forte video or if there's anything else please attach the link of that video..

[@mikesmoot1090]

question, I got a 2012 with 2.0 engine and it would turn off in mid traffic, i scanned it, it came up with and idle control valve, where is it located on the 2.0...... Thxs

[@ScannerDanner]

a 2012 Kia would be an electronic throttle body (no idle control valve). You may want to look that code up that you got, your scan tool may be misinterpreting the meaning of the code

[@danhughes6977]

I had the same problem on a Kia Optima and it was the heat sensor in the transmission it put it into a limp mode

[@ScannerDanner]

Not the same problem as this transmission shifted through all the gears. A limp home on a tranny is a fixed gear position, usually 2nd gear

[@fascistpedant758]

Given that the O2 sensor was controlling fuel properly, wouldn't injection quantity have reflected low MAF? You HAVE to read the SAE definition of engine load in OBD2 and how it relates to VE.

[@ScannerDanner]

No MAF on this engine

[@fascistpedant758]

I mean the actual air flow, not the sensor. If flow is restricted, but the air fuel ratio was good, it had to be pulling back a lot of fuel. (low injection quantity and/or very negative fuel trim)

[@ScannerDanner]

Fuel trim is not relevant at WOT

[@fascistpedant758]

Doesn't the wideband O2 sensor allow WOT fuel trim? Sorry for being so curious.

[@josephespinoza9354]

you can ck. cats with a vacuum gage also if you can find a good place on intake .

[@ScannerDanner]

sometimes :-)

[@albclean]

Could you put your hand over the tailpipe? Nothing going out plugged?

[@petar443]

I wonder if this problem could been found using old-school manifold vacuum guage . Is it possible on these GDi engines?

[@ScannerDanner]

Never felt like the manifold vaccum test was accurate enough. Had many pass that test with a plugged cat. Maybe I was never doing it right?

[@luthermanriquez1471]

Hey SD did you ever find out what was actually wrong with this car? I know you said the catalytic converter was a possibility, well I had the same issue with the same car and it started burning oil like crazy I replaced the plugs and coils, “were due” the drive belt, as well as the catalytic converter. And it was good for a few weeks then it started again. I was worried the cat was going to get fouled again so I was searching for everything possible. The plugs were fouled within those two weeks, replaced them with OEM plugs. And replaced the PCV which had oil in it, Ran good for a few weeks then it started again with a 0420 CEL. I put cataclean why? Idk but it helped turned off CEL. Then a few weeks later I get an O2 bank 1 CEL so I replaced the O2 sensor. Good for a week then it started again. And was burning a quart of oil a week!! Went through everything again and come to find out the OEM PCV valve was leaking at the threads bought another one and the same thing leaking at the threads. And if you tighten it up it will bottom out and just spin. So I wrapped the threads with Teflon tape and the car stopped burning oil, but idled rough the loose factory battery terminal wouldn’t tighten up all the way put a shim in it, and everything seems to be running good. It lacks power on hot days uphill but that’s just a Kia trait. If you have the patience to read this lmk what you think. Hope this helps someone else too

[@cte93]

OMG THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT IM DEALING WITH!! Please help!!!

[@cte93]

My car is doing exactly what you described

[@odanebarnett3112]

What type tool did you used to pull out that oxygen sensor ?

[@Bigjamez2011]

Was it bank 1 or bank 2 cat failed ?

[@ScannerDanner]

only one cat, one bank on this 4 cylinder

[@foonijani]

5:57 13:25 my car is making exact same sound at 4500rpm at 4th gear and 105km. Wont climb hills over 100km. Seems like plugged exhaust is the culprit in mine as well. Fuckin took few months figuring it out cause i was only looking at fuel, spark and air. Thanks to this video, it might be problem in mine.

[@rstar88105]

Gut feeling on no power, no codes, and cant get to full speed on test drive - Damaged cat restricting exhaust. Check for back pressure upstream of cats and continue diagnosis. I have heard that if alot of over the counter fuel cleaner additives will damage cats if a customer uses them all the time. Have you seen that happen?

[@ScannerDanner]

I have not

[@electric8668]

SD can you answer why a special charger is needed to charge AGM batteries even though they are charged in car by the same source that charges all types of batteries without issue? So why is a special charger for AGM batteries needed to maintain them when a car is in storage etc?

[@Pablo_Automotive]

Another grat job team Danner, big hug from Spain

[@joeandgod1]

When you didn't have that right adapter for the spark plug hole, I was thinking, why didn't Pico make one of those universal ones with just a rubber tip, that would go into any spark plug hole if you hold it down, I'm sure it wouldn't be as accurate, but accurate enough to do the job.

[@Sergio8191994]

I've used the adapters and Pico before and the reason is the pressures are just too high to do a universal rubber material that will stay in the hole and many times the spark plug tube diameter is small (13-16mm wide) which makes universal tools a bit difficult for this application.

[@ScannerDanner]

It would be impossible to use one of those adapters and be able to capture the data you want and also if you were working alone. But good thought! I would have used one on this application if I had it.

[@jasonmcnamara2079]

dont mechanics have / use vac gauges anymore? or have cars done away with vac boosted brakes? or would it have not worked on this engine? just seems easier than pulling O2 sensor

[@ScannerDanner]

The vacuum test has variables and is not always a good guide. I've struggled with it and trust my exhaust backpsi test 100%

[@sunilyadav-jx2qr]

can u explain in detail about exhaust back pressure