2015+ Dodge Charger Drive Shaft Clicking/Clunking (and Replacement)

[@jarridtaylor7778]

HEAR this: Guys if you’re going to get under a car, regardless if you have someone spotting you or not. This is not swimming lessons. If that car falls from a foreign accidental bump or wrenching just hard enough to get it to shake the right way the damage is done. Take at least one wheel off and put it underneath the rotor of the corner you’ll be under if not two at whichever corners are the combination is best for your situation. Car falls on your wheel you get a new wheel. Have a Failsafe

[@PhenomII1090T]

Facts! I did a lot of bumping shaking on the car before getting under it, as you always should when using stands. Wanted to go to a lift but didn't have one close by unfortunately.

[@robotviewer1396]

I started getting a clicking noise coming from center rear of car mostly at low speeds while giving throttle. It would click with every revolution of the wheel. When i shift to N and free roll.... it stops. For the last year ive been able to make it stop by either driving around a right turning clover style on/off ramp...but fast. Sounds weird, but maybe something is shifting or being wedged in a way the clicking stops. If that doesnt work I can give alot of throttle in Reverse to make it stop. I checked my drive shaft(s) and I dont see any issues. Did you experience similar issues at first? @PhenomII1090T

[@zTheChosenOne]

Damn, exactly the same noise I’ve been hearing. Thanks for confirming this is pretty much guaranteed to be the issue.

[@PhenomII1090T]

Glad I could help. Missed this but hopefully you're back on the road by now!

[@73split]

Great video, thank you. That sound just started today in my 2016 Chrysler 300s. I could tell it was a driveline noise but I wasn’t sure where it was at, this video just saved me a hell of a lot of work. Thank you again.

[@PhenomII1090T]

Didn't see your comment until today, hope your repair went smoothly! I wonder how many failures constitutes a recall, but with almost 60,000 people watching this... I'd guess even a quarter of them having the same problem is a significant issue in my mind. Also super super dumb that a "drivetrain" warranty from Dodge themselves didn't cover the stinking thing. Poor original design in my opinion.

[@bdogjr7779]

​@@PhenomII1090T《☆》I think I'd be madder'n hail👍🏾😎🔥

[@jjw5322]

My 2022 scatpack with only 1500 miles was making the same noise i was freaking out took it to the dealer turns out i have a bad drifeshaft from the factory , crazy !!

[@2CrazyRussian]

You should teach other channels how to film repair videos. By far a great informative video, and great instruction 👍 thank you for your hard work

[@PhenomII1090T]

I've done live video production as a hobby for years, I've also watched many a potato camera repair video that says "oh and you need to remove that bolt you can't see, and make sure you put that piece back in the same orientation", the more information in a clear and concise manner the better in my opinion. If I run into anything else, I'm sure I'll do another one, but thankfully, she's holding strong. Moved from my daily to my weekender so less mileage being added.

[@TheMargo420]

Amazing! What a great video. You just saved many people some money! I have to have mine replaced. 44,426 miles on it! 2015 RT bought new. Very disappointing!

[@jcpallitto]

You only have 44k miles on your 2015 RT? I have 135k on my 2015 RT and the same noise just started

[@TheMargo420]

@@jcpallitto Yes I don't drive much. The mechanic showed me the driveshaft . It can be manually moved up and down. Got one on order since a week ago. Good luck.

[@mikeross111]

Happens to every single one of them, don't feel bad...

[@johndough82]

I have a 2015 RT with 28k miles and mine is doing the exact same thing. The dealership just called me to confirm that it is the drive shaft. Now I need to decide on replacing it myself or having them replace it. But, wow...they are definitely charging for it.

[@garan2287]

Just found out I have to do the same on my 2015 V6 Challenger with a little over 100K on it. Thanks for the info.

[@Ogrelord5150]

I had mine replaced, covered by warranty. I know others who have had theirs fixed by dealer (FIAC) without warranty , just paid a deductible. I think its a recall on Hellcat and SRT, but will cover other engines if you press them.

[@brittneyschwan3607]

What about scat packs?

[@kinggk1832]

@@brittneyschwan3607 just got a brand new scat and 2k miles later they replacing my drive shaft

[@scotthester2189]

This is your captain speaking, we have problem with the driveshaft,Great video, I have same problem in 2016 chrysler 300 and, thank you captain chrysler. You sound like. A pilot talking to passengers over the intercom, but sound cool, calm collected. See you in the fast lane. Thks again.

[@PhenomII1090T]

Haha glad I could help diagnose, this seems to be happening to a lot of people, which is most unfortunate. At least there's a "relatively" easy fix.

[@Reality2016]

@@PhenomII1090T it’s happening to mine currently and I see you basically help me a lot for months I’ve taken it 6 mechanics nobody knew what it was.My question is the drive shaft you purchase it doesn’t feel different from Mopar and can it fit 5.7 RT

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@Reality2016 the one that I found was different than the factory shaft, it's still a 2 piece but it's bolted together instead of sleeved together like the factory shaft. If your 5.7 is a 2015+, and RWD not AWD, in theory it should be compatible. The Dorman 986-041 seems to be similar to what I got, and supports all the R/T and 392 models from what I can dig up, that is *if* your car is not all wheel drive.

[@toddhusted8638]

Your video and commentary is very thorough. Great videoing! This is VERY helpful!! Thank you very much

[@PhenomII1090T]

Happy to help, it was a pain after having already replaced the front wheel bearings (didn't have a second set of ears when initially diagnosing) but it's been doing well with some... Spirited testing we'll call it... 😀

[@jalenlance425]

Appreciate you actually showing how to do it & not skipping steps

[@mohammadalshaikhhasan5091]

Great and hard work. Why didn't repair the bearing instead of replacing the all drive shaft?

[@PhenomII1090T]

I only found that someone makes a retrofit bearing after I replaced mine. After speaking with many shops I trust, and the Dodge dealer, they all mentioned that you could potentially replace the bearing on the original, but the way they're assembled, the carrier bearing isn't serviceable. There is a retrofit repair that someone posted and I looked at that looks promising though.

[@blakehou8733]

damn,I just bought a 2022 challenger GT after 800miles i can hear clunk from behind and under of passenger seats, it is normal or do i have to check in with dealer？

[@Rkauze]

I just have the same sound !On my 2015 dodge charger v6 .For a fact i gotta do the same . thank you for sharing, try other vidoes but they never pin point the problem.

[@PhenomII1090T]

It's such a weird noise, I initially thought for sure it was a wheel bearing, then after replacing those and not fixing it, i tore into it immediately, figured it couldn't be that rare of an issue.

[@MansoorAlshammari]

The same problem in my 2015 car, and only the belt was changed, and now I hear a new sound, and the workshop does not know the reason, I think that the way they installed the belt is wrong, the sound caused me inconvenience.

[@reddmarie]

Mine is making this noise for sure. Thought it was always coming from my passenger side until I actually rode passenger and found out it was coming from underneath middle. Expensive fix ?

[@TheMargo420]

for me 1100 part, 450 labor ,just happened.

[@DemonBoy1777]

I got a used one and still having trouble finding someone to put it on...mine is real noisy with speed increase i just hope they dont run into another problem.while replacing this

[@nellaob4229]

PhenomII1090T "How has the new drive shaft/carrier bearing held up in this car?" I believe I have the exact same issue in my 2015 dodge charger AWD police 5.7l. (Same clicking sound, no sound when idling parked, clicking sound starts as soon as my car starts moving forward and the clicking sound speeds up or slows down matching the speed my car is rolling. Also, I can drive say 20mph, with clicking sound and put into Neutral while still rolling at 20mph and the clicking sound is still there - I haven't jacked up my car to check it yet though). Thank you for a very informative and instructional video Sir!!

[@PhenomII1090T]

Mine has held up fantastic, however, mine is RWD. I'm unsure if the AWD models will be at all similar with a carrier bearing since I am assuming they have some sort of transfer case to drive both axels. I've never seen the bottom side of one, but I'm sure it's worth the look though.

[@stantheman3931]

I have the same car as you I order the wrong driveshaft I need to take it to the dealer I’m lost

[@fabianm2819]

theres an upgraded one you can get that's also a 2 piece bearing, can just angle grind the old bearing off and use that without needing to replace the driveshaft

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@fabianm2819 learned that a while afterwards from replacing this. However, I think I still would have taken the same route were it to happen today because you also get fresh u joints, and while pricey, it wasn't awful.

[@mikeross111]

This happens to EVERY Challenger RT+ etc.... You gotta go one piece or get the custom bracket..

[@Oldsmokey1]

I've got a 6 speed challenger T/A and i've got a clicking noise I can't figure out.

[@PhenomII1090T]

No idea if the manuals are the same at all as mine is an auto, but I also changed my rear diff fluid with Amsoil, they also make some slip free, or anti slip additive stuff that comes in a small container that I added in.

[@WheresWah]

I changed mine and still hearing the exact same noise only when I’m not pressing the gas pedal , once I press the gas pedal I don’t hear it at all , any advice ?

[@markusclark4528]

Just had my 16 challenger driveshaft replaced. A previous shop only replaced the bearing and made the sound worse! 🤦‍♂️

[@rickymcdonald2669]

Just replaced the drive shaft in my 2015 Dodge Challenger RT. Never ever heard of a drive shaft going bad.😢

[@Thurmanatr16]

Mine did as well around 55K miles (15 RT). Must be a design flaw w the carrier bearing.

[@Foryaaaa834]

Mine at 60k🤦🏽‍♂️😂 haven’t replace it

[@useenju]

Could a bad yoke flange make the same noise? I replaced the driveshaft support bearing and its still making the same noise

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@useenju was the shaft support blown out like this? After you replaced it, was there any play in the drive shaft when parked?

[@useenju]

@@PhenomII1090T i replaced the center bearing no play in the rear but play in the front

[@useenju]

@@PhenomII1090T It’s making the same exact noise as the charger in the video

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@useenju that being the case I'd suspect the front joint on the driveshaft, but it's tough to know without seeing what's still moving. Depending on how long it ran after the carrier bearing went out, I could see it damaging the joints. I replaced the full shaft mainly because I couldn't find anyone that had put in the carrier bearing insert that's available now, however it had the added benefit of replacing those joints.

[@useenju]

@@PhenomII1090T you think a bad driveshaft yoke flange could produce the same sound or would you replace the driveshaft first

[@chrisb2543]

I’m talking to dodge now, requesting them to open a investigation, there should not be this many cars having this issue, this should certainly be a recall

[@777sugarplumb]

U get anywhere?

[@chrisb2543]

@@777sugarplumb no, never heard back, I figured as much

[@shawnmack1095]

Exactly

[@Nine0FiveCollections]

Your the g.o.a.t dude. Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart for this. Saved me so much. One little tip for newbs like me tho... dont clip out taking the bolts off. I know most people know this but as a someone uneducated in cars, id just want to see the FULL process. Thank you so so so so so so so so so so so so so much bro. Keep up the hard work❤🇨🇦

[@stephenwambold5407]

My 2016 charger RT is starting to click but it's quiet for now. I had mine replaced at 80k miles because of this issue, now at 83k and having the problem yet again 🤬

[@dannyvillegas7408]

Do u have to buy a new drive shaft or can u use the stock one and just replace the carrier

[@PhenomII1090T]

I replaced the drive shaft, the new shaft has a serviceable bearing as it's able to be separated on the OEM style replacement. Another cheaper option is there's a new product since guys suggested called the JXB Performance kit. It looks like it may work, but I don't think it was around when I did this, if it was I never found it. Personally, I'm more confident in the replacement, because it's a different design that in theory if the same issue occurs it shouldn't require full removal. You're choice in what looks best to you.

[@jameschilemi4690]

I’m only getting the noise while letting off the gas. And decelerating quickly. Anyone else experiencing this too?

[@gfp221]

Yep, I have a manual, so it makes the noise when I'm in neutral as well. Only at speeds from 40 mph til about 65. Already had the transmission replaced snd the rear differential. Guess I have to replace the carrier bearing now. 2014 challenger srt8

[@PhenomII1090T]

Sorry for the delay in responding, I've not been checking these as often and missed yours. For anyone else, yes, that's how it began for me as well, under power, couldn't really tell, I think because it was torquing it against the side of the carrier. But when decelerating, definitely more noticeable. I thought wheel bearings to start as it was whining from what sounded like the passenger footwell (self diagnosing before I had someone else to listen) so had replaced those before I found the root cause here. Hope your repairs went safe and well!

[@gfp221]

@PhenomII1090T I have ordered a 3.5" aluminum 1 piece driveshaft through my warranty company to replace it. Dealer said it was the transmission 1st, replaced that. Still noise. Then they said it was the rear differential. Replaced that, still noise. No idea how they missed the driveshaft when they clearly had to remove the exhaust and driveshaft for both repairs.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@gfp221 dang! I know what dealer wouldn't be touching my car again. I hope you're getting it repaired under warranty, otherwise... Man... That's a heck of a bill for unnecessary parts...

[@gfp221]

@@PhenomII1090T all under warranty luckily.

[@TrashcanGarage]

Thanks for the concise video. Saved me a bit of my sanity. 19k on my 2015 Challenger 5.7 R/T and after sitting over the winter I now have the "playing card in the bicycle spokes" noise (and the electric steering has gotten noisy). This is beyond disgusting. I have a 2011 Mustang v6 with over 330K on it and all I'll have had to do is a spark plug change and replace the battery once. Screw this. No more Mopars for me.

[@TheMargo420]

I am done too! Junk.

[@PhenomII1090T]

Can't disagree with you that it sucks, I can't imagine what engineer said "you know what, let's make it so they can't take this apart". The easy fix for that engineer would have been to just ditch the 2 piece for a 1 piece and make it loud, but why not make it hard.

[@samuknow]

I have replaced 2 carrier bearings and 2 sets of couplers on my Magnum RT. BAD design for HP.

[@beecnote7742]

I just ran over a main hole that was sitting high up in a parking lot and my Daytona hit directly in the middle of the vehicle tearing the. First cross brace knocking on the floor before I even drive the car but even louder when I drive it and exhaust louder of course. 😡 would it clunck before I put it in drive?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Dang! I'm not sure if that would cause the same issue, it'd have to destroy your exhaust first, could be your exhaust clacking around. It also shouldn't spin the drive shaft if you're not moving.

[@beecnote7742]

@@PhenomII1090T exactly what I was thinking soon as push start loud with vibration and worse when. I put it in drive… when inspected didn’t see nothing hit the engine or transmission. I was thinking a shield or something got shifted

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@beecnote7742 yeah I'd suspect the exhaust first, the drive shaft is tucked up in the trans tunnel, so it'd be very very difficult to break that on a pot hole/man cover.

[@beecnote7742]

@@PhenomII1090T That’s kinda what I was thinking but as the car is in motion is the loudest & I looked at the exhaust didn’t see a hole or dent.. I’m thinking of doing a claim if the property management don’t get back to me and let dodge fix it and stop the guessing.. so I don’t waste any money also .. thanks for your input very valuable also your video. 🫡

[@arnoldbaclig7709]

I think its difficult to just change the center bearing.. or not replaceble.. the whole parts around $600 to $900

[@kurtyoung2254]

Will the car still drive if you just change the center bearing?

[@RobMuss13]

Just ran into this problem. Have my old one out on the floor and ordered a new one. Just opened it and it’s about 8 inches short. What is the part number for this replacement?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@RobMuss13 it looks like the part number I bought was a PTI 2894-324 an alternate part would be the Dorman 986-041 but that cost more. I'd recommend calling Action Machine Inc (South Bend Indiana) who I bought mine from, I was extremely impressed with their customer service, another I'd suggest trying is Fort Wayne Clutch & Drive Line (Fort Wayne Indiana) never spoken to them, but they have that specific PTI part still listed at far lower than the Dorman part, even if it's not in stock, they can likely have it built, that's what I did with mine when I had to replace it. Good luck!!

[@bdogjr7779]

Nice Work《☆》👍🏾🔔🤳How is the new assembly holding up for you. Have you put many miles on it?? Any racing or hard duty type use?? Thanks for the nice detailed video. My car is a 2014 Charger Pursuit 5.7L 5 spd automatic with 116k miles. It's been run hard & put away wet a few times before I bought it✌🏼😎☯️

[@sanesgarage]

As you were tapping the front part out of driveshaft are you having someone pull on it a lil to help loosen as well??

[@PhenomII1090T]

Yes and no, we tried, but it ended up being the sledge that got it off there, it felt like it wouldn't move because they rusted together but eventually it just popped. Bit of a pain!

[@adama6440]

Man god bless. This is the sound to the T exactly that mine did today! Because of your video I confirmed my theory and made sure I told the shop what to look at exactly

[@PhenomII1090T]

Glad it could help. I replaced my front wheel bearings to start because that's where it seemed like it was coming from. It had me buffalo'd until I got it up on jackstands and started grabbing things. No idea how they haven't recalled them since so many seem to be having this problem.

[@JohnnySilverwrench]

Dude for real mine blew the carrier besring today too on my 5.7 r/t pursuit package

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@JohnnySilverwrench I'm both glad this could help diagnose if that's why you found it, and a bit upset that this seems to be such a common failure on what I would consider to be a "drive train" part, but even though I bought my Charger with a CPO warranty (through Dodge, not a dealer BS), according to the Dodge, no, the drive shaft isn't covered under the "drive train" warranty... So dumb...

[@JohnnySilverwrench]

@@PhenomII1090T dude no way same shit here in illinois happened at exactly 115k very upsetting since obviously just bought it 2 weeks ago this helped a lot but im pretty sure you can seperate the carrier bearing if you have a sepeartor (probably for harmonic balancer i know theres a 1a video out there) or did that cut out on the 15 and newer models??im actually taking mine out as we speak

[@JohnnySilverwrench]

Or in this case type lmfao

[@alexanderharris4857]

Thanks for the video. I just purchased a new driveshaft from RockAuto and it is now installed. Unfortunately, I'm now hearing a clunking noise. Do you think balancing could be an issue? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@alexanderharris4857 hard to say. I'd personally suspect maybe something didn't get tight on reassembly, but I'd put it up on stands and do some wiggling around of parts to see if something is still loose. Hard to say without seeing. Could be, hopefully not, trans or rear diff.

[@NS3825]

I’ve got a clunk shifting from reverse to drive or drive to reverse. Possibly driveshaft related? Comes when turning and recently when going straight. Getting worse the more I drive

[@PhenomII1090T]

I'd check to see if it's loose at all, you can check it under the car without removing anything, however mine did the same when I bought it, replacing the rear differential fluid fixed it for me though. There was a whine when turning at low speeds from the rear is what clued me into that.

[@shorty8174]

@@PhenomII1090T at what miles did u do the rear differential service

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@shorty8174 55-60,000 used Amsoil SEVERE GEAR® 75W-90 and Amsoil SlipLock additive.

[@shorty8174]

Thank u for the reply

[@JD-jt9hz]

Exact problem with my 2015 challenger. Most likely this is the issue , I’m not sure if I should take it to the dealership or a mechanic shop..

[@PhenomII1090T]

I'd get a quote from both, but if you don't have a shop you use typically, check reviews because you'll have hit or miss there. If you're at all mechanically savvy, it was relatively simple to actually do the hardest part was hammering it out once the bolts were removed.

[@JD-jt9hz]

@@PhenomII1090T thanks brother! dealership cost $200 just to diagnose. I found a mechanic and going to fix it this week.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@JD-jt9hz yeah that sucks from the dealer, just gotta see if they'd pay you because you've diagnosed it already 🤣

[@JD-jt9hz]

@@PhenomII1090T so I was told by a mechanic ( not the dealership) it was my transmission. 🤔 any idea on that ? I feel like it’s a money grab.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@JD-jt9hz if you can get under it and wiggle it at the bearing that's definitely A problem, but maybe not all the problems. I would be suspect of it being the trans but always possible.

[@randalldixon2802]

My chally jus started doing this today..😣

[@investingshorts8268]

Having the same issue with my 2015 Charger Pursuit (5.7) Most of these cost $500-1000 idk if there’s any available cheaper then that that’s reliable, I know usually cheap don’t mean good but curious Also Sometimes can be a carrier bearing which a JXP Bearing can take care of the stock one that fails a lot ($2-300)

[@PhenomII1090T]

Some have mentioned the jxp bearing, I just didn't know it existed when I had to fix this. Even if I had known, with how gone the bearing was and how much I had driven it, I'd wonder about the state of the U Joints on each end. The place I bought the shaft from had both the one I installed, and 1 piece custom shafts for around the same money. A 1 piece drive shaft entirely eliminates the issue, and it would help throttle response because there is less play in the drivetrain, however, you would need to do something with the mid-mufflers, either dent them a bit to make room, or delete them. There's a lot of people who have them deleted and it does make the car sound better (subjective). I just wanted a factory-like repair so that if I sold it (just did at 86,000 miles to a dealership) I wouldn't have to explain any changes.

[@jonathanrea3245]

Did you have to remove the rear bumper to clear the exhaust?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@jonathanrea3245 negative, from what others have said you don't even have to remove the exhaust. I did it to give myself plenty of room.

[@rocksolid269]

I can’t get mine back in … once I put the shaft back in the middle ,the back side driveshaft coupler center part that sticks in won’t go up.. it’s like it needs to move forward a inch or so.. tried everything , 2006 Dodge Charger rt

[@PhenomII1090T]

Not sure the process for the 06, but if it's a similar design, I wonder if you don't start with bolting up the carrier bearing, but start with the trans side, then the rear diff, then the carrier bearing...?

[@jacobdelabio9397]

Where’d you have the Jack stands set?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@jacobdelabio9397 the rear two on the rear suspension where it ties to the vehicle. See 6:15 for a visual. On the front side, I just lifted from the rubber puck in the front, and put the jack stands as close to the outside of the vehicle as possible. As others mentioned, tossing your wheels under it may not be a bad idea as well, however the jack stands I was using were severely over spec'd for the car (used for heavy duty trucks/semis) so i wasn't worried about them.

[@coreygallagher251]

You think backing up the car on those car ramps would give enough clearance?

[@PhenomII1090T]

If you do, know that you're disconnecting your drive line, your rear wheels will break free if you remove the drive shaft, be VERY cautious and block your wheels well if that is your intention. I would highly recommend against it myself, harbor freight has very inexpensive jack stands that will hold up great. Be safe!

[@coreygallagher251]

@@PhenomII1090T So they have this clamshell design carrier bearing from JXB so all I would have to do is remove the exhaust and cut away the old carrier and whatever rubber is left attached. Then you attach the new one without having to remove the driveshaft here is a video of it from the manufacturer of the part. Just wondering if a ramp would be okay but Jack stand would probably be better anyways. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqqkhX-eq5p-a8ksi=6cPIh-Wyns5aDbhq

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@coreygallagher251 a few people posted that after I did mine. Looks like a decent part. I just didn't want to deal with any crap since mine has banged around a ton before I realized what exactly went wrong. Pretty sure there's a U-Joint where it pivots. The JXB part I think is worth a shot though, people seem to have good success with it. Regardless of which you do, just be careful, it's a heavy car and it won't give you a second chance.

[@cagapalofilmz2008]

My rack and pinion and drive shaft messed up i have a 2015 charger RT😖

[@stricklandgarageaviation2864]

How has the newly designed driveshaft with the center joint improvement (bolt connection so you can service the center bearing) holding up? any vibration? Are the replacement driveshafts built from core replacements? Thanks, great video

[@jcasey460]

Nice vid....I have the same questions as Strickland Garage & Aviation

[@stricklandgarageaviation2864]

Just so you know, the dealer charges $1500 to replace the drive shaft. Cost of drive shaft--$1010. labor--$500. @ year warranty.

[@lorrainerodriguez1512]

I just got a quote today. My 2015 challenger is making the same noise. 1300 for the driveshaft and 600 for labor through the dealer.

[@anthonymartinez8707]

Can you replace the center support bearing?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Not OEM, but there is an aftermarket part that should work I've discovered since this time made by JXB Performance. I haven't used it, but there's been a few people that commented it worked well for them. Either seem to resolve the issue, but I replaced the shaft with this to have it both serviceable, and keeping factory spec. It's held up well for me with continuing my... Spirited... Driving... 😂

[@johnnyzee383]

Hey there..Mine went on my 2015 Challenger...so the driveshafts do not come apart in the original??I thought there would be a spline in the middle where the hanger bearing supports the shaft. Looks like a job...might take me all day...

[@PhenomII1090T]

According to the forums I read, and Dodge, the drive shafts don't come apart (easily) so they're "non-serviceable" I think it's a similar or the same part on the challenger's, the shop I linked in the description where I got mine also custom designs 1 piece shafts, but for the charger you have to delete the mid mufflers and/or knock the exhaust out of the way a little to get it to fit, I opted not to do that yet.

[@johnnyzee383]

@@PhenomII1090T Hey thanks for the response..I got the car up and had a look...no need to drop the exhaust on mine (I have the 3.6), and looks pretty straight forward..I know the owner of a machine shop and he said he could probably make a hanger bearing but needs the whole assembly, but if the shafts dont come apart easily, I might just opt for getting a new shaft, but 3 weeks out of stock!..looks like a defective part to me, as almost all the shafts at the wreckers have defective hanger bearings..(rubber is torn).

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@johnnyzee383 I agree, they appear to be defective, if there is a recall, I hope they honor those who had to replace them already. Sucks that warranty didn't cover it.

[@johnnyzee383]

@@PhenomII1090T Im shocked that it wasnt covered by the warranty. Thats simply ridiculous.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@johnnyzee383 appearantly according to Mopar, the "drive shaft" isn't covered under the "drive train" warranty. I called them a few times getting different people each time... So dumb.

[@sammagness5208]

can you drive on it still?

[@doranmaxwell1755]

Things have sure changed from when I could crawl under my olds powered 57 Chevy with all the tools I needed (don't ask how I knew) and have the driveshaft out in like ten minutes tops and then the trans out in another 15 minutes. New(ish) trans back in (after putting Hurst linkage on it from old one) and driveshaft back in... maybe an hour total fix? I do have a 2014 Charger and suspect that the carrier bearing is going bad... they look like the worlds worst factory idea... I am not going to fix that thing myself! Probly cost me a fortune.

[@brandonwilkerson9802]

What’s the difference between a one piece option or two piece

[@PhenomII1090T]

The 1 piece driveshaft doesn't pivot in the middle keeping the driveshaft up in the tunnel. From what I've read and seen you have to either get your mid-mufflers deleted, or take a hammer and dent them in a little bit to get it to fit. The 1 piece drive shaft does have other benefits, it provides a much better throttle response as you don't have all of the linkage joints in the 2 piece, and it eliminates the issue here entirely. The only downside is the exhaust modification from what I understand.

[@BaysideSoundz]

@ 3:10 is there a bearing inside of that part of the driveshaft? Because I definitely have a bad bearing sound coming from that area there of my charger. I was hoping it's not inside of my differential because I changed the oil and there was no metal shavings in the oil so I assumed everything is fine inside of my differential.

[@PhenomII1090T]

I would assume there's one going into the rear diff, but if it's going bad I like you would expect to see shavings in the diff fluid. Are you sure it's coming from the rear diff and not the rear wheel bearings? Locating the noise is difficult in my experience, since I replaced both front wheel bearings before finding the bad drive shaft 😂

[@BaysideSoundz]

@@PhenomII1090T more than once I've jacked up the car, yesterday I had help, we jacked all 4 sides and we're sure it's not a bad wheel bearing. I changed the fluid last week and there was no shavings in the oil but the sound is coming from the front of the differential. It's either the pinion bearing (if there's one) or on the outside where the driveshaft connects to the differential. My center carrier is fine. I'm really hoping I don't have to change the whole differential 😞

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@BaysideSoundz that would definitely suck, I know that my rear diff made some odd noises in the past, but what it ended up being was the fluid in the diff, not low, but something about it was off. In reverse you could audibly hear a whirring noise. I ended up swapping to to Amsoil and added their SlipLock additive to it, after about 1000 miles it evened out pretty well for me.

[@BaysideSoundz]

@@PhenomII1090T after changing my oil I'm still getting same sound, no change what so ever. Not even a little decrease in sound which I thought would've happened.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@BaysideSoundz is it all the time? Only at low speeds? High speeds?

[@riyadhjawad1306]

why don’t you replace just the mount?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Because the drive shaft doesn't separate, however someone does now make a retrofit kit, I hadn't found it when I replaced mine, now I can replace the bearing.

[@riyadhjawad1306]

@@PhenomII1090T gotcha

[@jesseclifford4970]

Hello great video want to ask can I reuse the bolts if I do a OEM replacement or do I have to buy new bolts.

[@PhenomII1090T]

I would suggest replacing the bolts. I honestly can not remember if mine included replacements which is a little sad. I believe I got replacements, but I know I did dump some blue locktite on mine even if you're not supposed to, I wanted to be sure...

[@Reality2016]

Will the link for the driveshaft work for 5.7 RT because your car is Ah scatpack so will the one you put on your car work for mine

[@rogerbaeza6930]

I just replaced mine and didnt have to touch the exhaust for nothing it slides right out

[@PhenomII1090T]

I heard read mixed results on that on the forums, since it's so easy to slip off without having to cut anything, I don't know how you'd get at the carrier bearing bolts. This was on a scat pack so I don't know if all the trim levels have the same exhaust mid pipes.

[@seans63lemansSD]

Just had my carrier bearing fail completely on the highway. Going to be fixing it this weekend, but it was scary

[@PhenomII1090T]

I drove on the on the interstate for about 100 miles before I was totally sure what it was because I had to get to an appointment. So... While less than ideal, it didn't grenade on me... But I'm pretty sure I was very very lucky.

[@jonnygun5055]

I had this problem myself. However the dealership tried to tell me it wasn’t the problem. Some mechanic tried telling me it was an exhaust rattle. Bro was just trying to make a customer states video. I’m not the one chief.

[@michaelghanbari8733]

Nice video did u have to put the driveshaft in a certain way ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

It only fits in 1 direction. Being 2 pieces it will flex where you can easily install the new one. Getting the old one off as seen in the video, can be a bear to do.

[@michaelghanbari8733]

@@PhenomII1090Twhere did you get the replacement bolts for the driveshaft you have a link ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@michaelghanbari8733 I actually didn't replace mine, just put locktite on the originals and they've done a-ok for me. Here's the Mopar part numbers for the bolts though, they come as 1 "set" being 2 bolts with the spanner. It's been a minute so I don't recall how many are on each end. 68249370AB is the axle side, 68249371AB is the transmission side. You can order them direct from the Mopar parts store online.

[@michaelghanbari8733]

@@PhenomII1090T thanks

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@michaelghanbari8733 happy to help, I'm both glad I filmed doing this, and not so glad it's had as many views as it has because that means it's getting to be widespread. Hopefully all goes well with your repair! If I can provide any further guidance just hit me up.

[@HellcatM6]

should have bought a custom 1 piece. Ive had several diffrent vehicles with a 2 piece drive shaft and that carrier bearing is an issue on all of them. 1 piece is pretty much 1 and done.

[@PhenomII1090T]

I considered it, I just didn't want to deal with my exhaust yet, on the charger you have to either knock your exhaust up, or cut the kid mufflers out from everything I saw and read.

[@johnnyneganiwina6294]

I own a 2016 Chrysler 300 S AWD with just over 76K on it. Exactly the same issue and now im having a hell of a time finding the part. My understanding is there is no part number for the center bearing support and would have to buy the whole assembly making the bearing a non serviceable part. I noticed this one in the video can be serviced. Anyone know where to buy this part or if it would even be compatible with a 300? Thank you kindly.

[@PhenomII1090T]

I don't have any idea what the AWD model looks like compared to this, being RWD, but I'd assume you have some form of transfer case?

[@johnnyneganiwina6294]

@@PhenomII1090T I'm one hell of a time trying to find this part. The dealership wants all my arms and legs for one... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated on where to call and inquire about it...

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@johnnyneganiwina6294 call the guys I have the link to in the description, I called them about mine and they were beyond helpful, if I ever need parts again that's where I'm buying.

[@Robsbrd99]

Well, my 2016 RT is at the dealer right now. Their price is $1400 for the whole job. I now see what the 400 bucks in labor is for. I'm so glad that bought the Lifetime MAX Care service contract. My cost will be 100 bucks. Anybody know if this is a comon fail point? My car only has 25k on it. Got a BAD feeling that this won't be the only shaft that goes in the car.

[@OnMyGrindENT]

Wow my Dealership is trying to charge me 2000 for this job. Same car

[@Robsbrd99]

@@OnMyGrindENT Too much. When they found out that THEIR extended service contract was paying, the bill magically came down to 1200 bucks. I only payed my $100 deductible. Is there another dealership close? It's billed as a 3 hour job and the shaft is like a grand.

[@JohnDoe-gj4dv]

Question Sir.....At how many MILES on the VEHICLE did this occur........ Awesome Video......Thank You....!!!

[@PhenomII1090T]

I'm at 78,000 now, it was right around 68,000 that it happened I believe, haven't put a ton of miles on it since last June when I picked up a Silverado, it's graduated to a weekend-mobile for now.

[@DaDarkninjayt]

So on the 2015 up do you have to replace the whole driveshaft

[@PhenomII1090T]

Yep, the carrier bearing can't be removed from everything I've read, and from looking at it. To be clear, people HAVE replaced the bearing before, but I have no idea how they would have approached it. Not impossible, just very difficult.

[@ronb7476]

Yes you do, just had the same issue on my Chrysler 300.

[@sunfish340]

@@ronb7476 My 2016 300 (3.6L) is at the dealer right now getting a new driveshaft assembly I assume. Service writer called me today - he was not real knowledgeable on exactly what was getting repaired. This looks like a pretty involved job - I would not want to try & tackle it unless I had a hoist. Anyway, it's being covered under the drivetrain warranty - it'll cost me a hundred bucks. **What would this R&R cost if it was not under warranty?

[@ronb7476]

@@sunfish340 About $1500.

[@jesusgallardo843]

Dodge Charger RT 2013 Changed my camshaft position sensor. Now I having a ticking noise. I moved the starter out of the way installed the part . I had trouble making the crankshaft flush. But now my new problem is the ticking. Anyone familiar with this situation?

[@shaneskaff8790]

So I’m trying to disconnect my driveshaft from my differential and it’s not budging. I’ve hit it from different angles. Any advice?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Hit it with penetrating oil, then just keep smacking it, you'll want a good weighted hammer/sledge (on the drive shaft specifically, since if you ruin it it doesn't matter) it took probably 20-25 good wallops on it to get it to budge, once it did, it popped right out. A tip, try to smack it away from the diff, a little bit of angle.

[@roldansack8112]

How much is the shaft ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Mine ran me about $1,500 in parts.

[@erikcano7621]

I changed the wheel bearings and it still made the noise then I changed the driveshaft and it’s still making the noise any ideas what it can be? The noise comes from the center console

[@PhenomII1090T]

Same clunking? Or a whining noise? If it's coming from the console for sure I'd suspect the transmission myself, but I'm no pro, just a guy who tracks down weird noises, sometimes a disappointing cost is involved 😆

[@zz61]

Thanks for the video. I'm so jealous, I've NEVER got to work on a car so clean!!........lol

[@salmanjat1236]

I’m picking a driveshaft today and installing today, but when I put in the new one do I have to make sure it goes in the same way as the old one?

[@PhenomII1090T]

There is no "right" orientation on the bolt pattern. Only thing that matters is front and back. The manufacturer will balance the shaft when bolted into place so it shouldn't matter. Good luck!

[@Tbenfrank1000]

So the driveshaft should be stiff ? Should’ve move at all ?

[@918Nigguh]

So do you have to replace the entire driveshaft or can you just replace the rubber part?

[@PhenomII1090T]

I couldn't find anyone replacing the carrier bearing (what broke) and Dodge has it as a "non-serviceable" part. The drive shaft, while 2 pieces, doesn't appear to come apart easily. All that to say, I'm sure it's possible, but I don't know how you'd do it, replacement wasn't too costly, and DIY labor saved even more.

[@christophermajors8013]

BRO!!! Thank you. I've been looking for this noise for weeks.

[@PhenomII1090T]

Happy to be of help, sad it's happening to you too. I think I goter detailed pretty well here but happy to answer any questions if you have them.

[@ramkidd123]

my 16 rt needs a new driveshift. 32k miles dealership wants 2k for repair. how much did you pay for this driveshaft??

[@PhenomII1090T]

It was $724 when I bought it, the shop I bought it from I have linked in the description, not monetized or anything, just seemed like good folks. I had called them since it seemed... A little too cheap, when all the others were $1,100 +/-

[@ramkidd123]

@@PhenomII1090T yeah just looked its now 1k

[@Faheem973]

The same with mine. It’s a 16 R/T as well and parts and labor came up to $1900

[@shawnmack1095]

Finally..I got an answer and their charging me 2500 bucks..I know damn well it ain't that expensive..what prices are you guys getting

[@JohnnySilverwrench]

Anyone happen to know if the driveshafts for the 3.6l and 5.7 are interchangeable on the awd? Any guidiance would be appreciated.

[@JohnnySilverwrench]

For anyone that is doing this themselves the rear driveshaft is the same steps of removal for the awd/pursuit packages the feont driveshsft has 4 T50 bolts on both sides of the shaft leading to transfer case and front axle assembley usually held in with a extensive amount of lock tight however i had my dad apply the brakes so the fronts didnt spin and got them loose and out with a flexhead 3/8 long handled ratchet after removal i realised i had to buy transmission cooler lines due to the fail safe welds (tiny ass spot welds) on the front shaft broke free and crushed my line in and dented my cat all on a vehilce i bought 6 days ago i opted out of buying a new shaft and having mine rebuilt the transcooler lines though im in the process of oredering. If i see any interest on here ill update on how it went.

[@dogtag9111]

@@JohnnySilverwrench hey, were you able to have the driveshaft center support bearing replaced/serviced? I’m experiencing the same thing on my 2015 5.7 AWD.

[@JohnnySilverwrench]

@@dogtag9111 carr8erbearing you can have repressed but if you have any play in your joints your screwed and will have to replace the whole thing since theyre non serviceable and are a wear item so cheaper and easier just to go with new bro

[@reverencerx873]

Thank you!! This finally diagnosed my car

[@PhenomII1090T]

Just getting around to the comments again, must have missed you last time. I hope you got it repaired and back on the road smoothly!

[@jeffsnyder5456]

Why didn’t you just replace the the carrier

[@PhenomII1090T]

It was a "non-serviceable" part, and I didn't see any good non-destructive way of getting it in/out.

[@TheHilltopper21]

How long did this repair take?

[@PhenomII1090T]

It took about 6 hours, that's from not having any idea exactly how we were going to do it since I couldn't find anything useful online. I'd say with 2 people, having some direction on what you're doing, it could be done in 3 hours no problem (some slop time there). If you must DIY, I'd add an hour or two on there. The hardest part was getting the old shaft off the trans, it took a lot of hits to find the sweet spot to get it moving on mine.

[@jameshau7408]

So im low on money and i have this exact same sound and its gotten worse over the last couple months, is there anyway i could just live with this? A drive shaft sounds expensive as fuck to replace and i cant do it muself since j dint have the equipment to do it

[@PhenomII1090T]

I definitely wouldn't drive it long with it broken. There is a retrofit kit you'll find in the comments that's cheaper than the drive shaft, can't recall off the top of my head it's name. I would strongly caution against driving it, I had to take mine 70 miles at 75-80mph (before I knew exactly what it was) and... It survived... But I would 100% recommend against driving it any further. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[@flyingpotato1628]

I buy a brand new shaft for my challenger,I was thinking the same that it comes from the passenger side but when I go to the mechanic we take the car 🚗 to drive test I hear the noise on the passenger side and he hear the noise in the driver side then we knew it was the shaft 1,500 for a shaft bro!!!they out of stock in any car parts store they even have trouble finding one in the agency ,the real trouble was the center support but sadly it cant be worked for 2015+ challenger so the whole shaft needs replacement

[@karatemandan4595]

Hey bro did it only do it when u took off or did it do it consistently

[@PhenomII1090T]

The noise got much worse at high speeds. Initially it started at lower speeds. I really, reallllllyyy noticed it when I had to take the interstate 70 miles to somewhere and then come back. That was a stupid move though.

[@walterdockins8475]

Damn, my '17 300S AWD has a similar noise. It's not as loud and it comes and goes. I don't know if something got caught under the car of if it's this issue. I sure hope it's not this. I'll have to check it out.

[@PhenomII1090T]

AWD should be entirely different, I don't even know if they use a 2 piece since the AWD should have a differential between the transmission and the rear axle, I'd get it up and start wiggling things to see what's loose!

[@NamlessKing]

I have exactly the same sound and the drive shaft is moving by my hand , I went to work shop they told me the sound came from the transmission 😅 , I got confused now , also the sound becomes when the car getting warm up , what do you think bro ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Not totally following, but if you can grab the drive shaft and shake it like I could here, probably the same issue. Mine only ever happened in motion so if it's happening when you're not moving, it's not the same issue. Mine did take about a month to get this bad, I didn't exactly know what it was. It sounded just like a bad wheel bearing, and it was a bad bearing, just not on the wheels 😆

[@NamlessKing]

Yes my issue happens only when the car moving , I will double check tomorrow, if I confirm the issue from the driveshaft , can I change the holder or I have to change everything ? Thanks btw

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@NamlessKing some people have mentioned they think the bearing can be replaced. After replacing the shaft and getting a good look at it, I don't know how without speciality tools. I ordered my replacement from a shop in northern Indiana (in video description) and swapped the whole thing out.

[@Foryaaaa834]

Just bought a JXB this video help

[@TR3V0L]

Awesome detailed video. I just took mines off using the helpful tips on this video. You mentioned the torque specs on the bolts is 50lbs ? And is it the same for the SRT 6.4 Charger ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

Yep, same engine, same drivetrain between the scatpack and the SRT... They're not the "same" car... but they're the same car...

[@TR3V0L]

@@PhenomII1090T Fantastic. This video is gonna blow up with views and likes. Thank you agains

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@TR3V0L Happy to help, I'm just amazed people hadn't done it already. This fix has gained the most traction, I thankfully haven't broken anything since so I haven't had to make another one yet.

[@robertmaruska2353]

What about the 6 cylinder engines?..what is the torque specs on that?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@robertmaruska2353 I found what appears to be a factory service manual online and it states 49 ft. Lbs. For both non-srt and srt, also "do not reuse fasteners" with a line below saying "if you reuse the fasteners use Mopar Lock and Seal adhesive or equivalent" (locktite) Is this manual legit? I think maybe since even though the drive shaft is a different sku for the v6, the bolts are in fact the same ones. Up to your discretion though, that's just want some text on the internet said.

[@scottmurphy3896]

That's what my car is doing! Thanks now I know what to do

[@kristopherlavancher2048]

Bolt size would be great dude

[@Phoenixsuns1968]

This happens on all challengers,and chargers, 300 s. They all brake mine broke at 20000 miles started leaking . Its you baby the car you will get a little more life to it . But if you beat its alot . It will brake faster . Its just a poor design . Mine started leaking when i got w oil change the dealer spotted it and replaced it 2 weeks later

[@nathanallen188]

Don't see the link to order replacement part

[@PhenomII1090T]

www.actionmachineinc.com/pages/replacement-driveshafts#make=Dodge&model=Charger&year=2015&drive=RWD%2F2WD&trans=Automatic&engine=6.4L& Here's a direct link to the one I installed, hope that helps.

[@nathanallen188]

Thx u bruh appreciate it

[@devon7412]

Hey bro i have this same exact problem on my 15 challenger. You think it's safe to drive until i get it fixed?? The next available appointment to get it fixed at my dealer is Jan 4th lol

[@PhenomII1090T]

I drove mine a few hundred miles on mine before I knew what it was for sure, but I would certainly not suggest it. (Drove 100 at 75-80mph and it was getting the death rattle) So... It just depends on how it feels honestly.

[@devon7412]

@@PhenomII1090T fasho i was jw. Thanks a lot man, good video 💯

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@devon7412 no problem. I figured "someone else is going to run into this" may as well document it. Considered changing my exhaust to the new MagnaFlow xmod while I was doing it but... To much money for now just to get great sound.

[@spartacus1617]

I’ve put a couple thousand miles on my 2016 so far and didn’t know the problem until this video. I changed whelk bearing’s was going to do breaks next but now I know it the drive shaft.

[@SRTFUWop]

Much love my guy cuz my car makes the same noise so now I definitely kno what’s wrong thanks for the video

[@Foryaaaa834]

This is the same noise come from my 2015 rt

[@BackyardGbodys97]

Thanks for the link...been looking for a manual scat driveshaft for literally over a year

[@PhenomII1090T]

I had great luck with the guys I bought this from. As mentioned I did call and speak with them as well, they seem to be super knowledgeable.

[@muhammedq9109]

Can it be done without taking down the exhaust ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

I have seen some people do it. "Can it be done?" Likely. Was it easier having full access to everything? Absolutely. If I had to guess, breaking the shaft loose from the trans would be extremely difficult if the exhaust was in the way. Sometimes just because you can doesn't mean you should is the way I see it.

[@muhammedq9109]

@@PhenomII1090T I will try it tomorrow ..i dont have to grease the shaft do i ?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@muhammedq9109 depends on what shaft you ordered but no, I did not, the CV Joints were pre-packed, as they should be.

[@bobfitzgerald14]

Have this exact problem on my 2016

[@PhenomII1090T]

Yeah it seems like it's a pretty widespread issue, wonder how many failures before it's recalled. I'm guessing it has to have X number of wrecks associated, I feel like it's a major safety hazard since I am guessing if it fully separated it'd come through the floor.

[@MEADKD1]

Dont even F around with replacing the driveshaft. JBX makes a way better hanger bearing that you can put on your existing shaft without even removing it - I didnt even have to let the exhaust down. You just need something to cut the factory hanger bearing off with - very soft thin metal doesnt take long. Then you bolt the new JBX kit around the bearing.

[@PhenomII1090T]

I did some looking at that thought as you're the second to mention it. It looks interesting as a stopgap fix but with how much of a beating mine took, I wouldn't have been confident in the actual bearing being ok. I had done a bit of interstate driving before identifying exactly what was wrong. The JBX doesn't look bad, but it's officially "off road use only" which if it ever did actually cause a major issue (very, very, very unlikely) I believe that would be insurances quick "oop got you good", their "trust us bro" warranty would make me a little skittish personally. At it's price point it's only 1/3 of the cost of replacing the entire shaft with an OEM (with DIY labor). I considered doing a 1 piece DSS shaft as well but decided to keep it factory. All of that said, it looks like a decent piece of kit and I agree that it looks like it'd work great for the cheaper price, if only dodge could have designed theirs to last better!

[@Reality2016]

Bro send me the link to this JBX center hanger bearing

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@Reality2016 www.jxbperformance.com/products/ld-facelift-dodge-charger/challenger-and-chrysler-300-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-upgrade That's what he's referring to, looks like it may do the trick, I didn't use it because I didn't know about it, seems pretty straightforward, might be worth a shot.

[@MEADKD1]

​@@Reality2016 I cant recommend this enough!!!! 1000x better design than factory.

[@Reality2016]

@@MEADKD1 hey so how many shops can provide this labor because don’t you have to have Ah special tool to remove to center and then put jbx?

[@UTCKREW44]

Damn my just started doing that f@ck! Thanks for the info I thought it was my wheel bearings.

[@faz30ut1623]

What’s up man, great video! I’m literally trying to work on this right now and I could use some help. I can’t get the shaft to rotate to loosen the bolts near the front. I even pushed up on the shifter like you did, it rotated once and that’s it. Now I’m stuck, and my emergency neutral cable is broken so that’s not even option. If you could get back to me asap, I would really appreciate it man! Thanks!

[@PhenomII1090T]

The emergency neutral cable connects to that little shifter button I pushed up on is the other end. You have to hold that lever up as you rotate it.

[@faz30ut1623]

Thanks for the quick reply man, this has been hell lol. When I pushed that lever up, the shaft actually rotated once on its own. Then after pushing up on it again, it wouldn’t do anything. Maybe I’m not pushing it up high enough to engage, idk…

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@faz30ut1623 you have to press pretty hard as I recall, and you have to hold it while you rotate the shaft. Is the trans in park? Is your parking brake set? What that lever does I'm pretty certain is disengage the park pin to essentially put the car in neutral. BE CERTAIN your car is well supported on all 4 corners when you do that, releasing the drive shaft will free spin the wheels. You can't do this with the rear tires on the ground I don't believe. Safety first.

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@faz30ut1623 also, I can tell you it was a PITA to get the front part of the shaft off, it took a lot of smacks from a mallet to break it loose due to rust, if you're not up north, less chance of road salt causing that, if you are... Good luck on that part 😆

[@faz30ut1623]

Trans is in park, but parking brake was set as well. I think that’s the problem. I’m about to try it out and see. I’m actually attempting to do this with the rear lifted only and leaving the exhaust on. Never know until ya try, right? lmao

[@gregorywilkins1001]

Why didnt you just replace the center support bearing and leave the drive shaft alone.

[@PhenomII1090T]

Because according to all the forums, and Dodge, the carrier bearing is "non-serviceable" on the original. Some people tried, some succeeded, but if the design is flawed I'm not putting another one back in to have to press out again in a few years.

[@LVXD0]

@@PhenomII1090T Is that the case for 2016 and after models too?

[@PhenomII1090T]

@@LVXD0 that's what I've found, up to current is my knowledge.