2015 Mercedes Benz GL450 Engine Mount Replacement 3.0L v6 Turbo (W166)

2015 Mercedes Benz GL450 Engine Mount Replacement 3.0L v6 Turbo (W166)

[@domehead1004]

Great video, helped a lot. Note: You do not have to disconnect the AC compressor and evacuate the AC. You can just move the compressor out of the way after unbolting it and removing the drive belt. You’ll need a stubby socket wrench to be able to get to the heat shield bolts in the back. I also did the transmission mount. To make that easier I marked the old bolts before removing and cut the bolts on the new mount to be a little longer than needed for full nut engagement. The bolts are way longer than they need to be. Added some orange thread locker for good measure. To answer some questions… The dealer wanted $2600 for this job. I spent around $300 on parts including the transmission mount, and it took me about six hours including the transmission mount. Next time would be much quicker. Note this is for the V6 (2015/2016). Earlier models are V8s, and this is much more difficult. Probably applies to 2017+ GLS 450 vehicles as well since they’re basically the same as the 2105/2016. How you know you need this: car will be very loud and rattling when starting cold. You can open the hood, press the gas, and you will see the engine move.

[@JustinHiFi]

domehead100 thanks a lot for your input on the video and your additional tips! I did not see any of these comments on this video until this morning. Notifications was turned off. I appreciate your comments and help to others.

[@c95carr1]

I'm about do this,was 6 hrs for both or one side thanks in advance

[@joevitkay5912]

I just did mine tonight, only driver side, 2017 GLS450. Great advice from domehead100, I did not disconnect AC compressor lines, just unbolt compressor and you can move it out of way. Hardest part was getting heat shield off. I thought I'd never get it back on, but with some contortionism, got er done. Once I unbolted the mount top bolt and two bottom bolts, jacked up engine as far as I could, I could not get the mount out at all. I took the front bolt out of the front differential mount, and was able to drop it enough to then get the mount out. When I turned the mount sideways, the hydraulic oil from the mount spilled everywhere, I was surprised how much was in there. Putting it all back together was not as bad as I expected. I used a bapmic mount - I figured if the OEM only lasted 5years, 60K miles, the bapmic couldnt be much worse for 1/4 of the price ($52), and now I am an expert at changing it anyway.

[@NoorKhan-ed4mm]

God bless you

[@NoorKhan-ed4mm]

I need to change in my 2017 gls

[@LaGuire]

Thanks for the video, cut down labor time by a lot. Also I did not evacuate and recharge the A/C system as others have mentioned in the comments, just moved A/C compressor out of the way. Its a lot easier to remove the heat shield if you first remove the lower E12 bolts for the engine mount, lift the engine up as high as possible. The helps access the 3 bolts for the heat shield.

[@quiencreesguey]

Just finished this on my 2016 GL450 with 166k miles. Absolutely spot on with the instructions you provided, plus the comments by the viewers about not needing to evacuate the a/c, and removing the differential's front bolt to gain extra clearance for the old mount to come out and the new mount to go in on the driver's side. I did also remove the air filter boxes; that helped a bit reaching the very difficult bolts for the heat shields. Took me 5hrs total to do the driver's side, will do the passenger's side next weekend and I'm estimating it will take me 3 at the most. The car had a very rough idle that was driving me insane, she now feels like new. Thanks a ton; I would have ended up bringing it to an indy if it hadn't been for this video. Locally (south florida) they were quoting everywhere between $1k to $2k, insane.

[@JustinHiFi]

Glad it helped you out! I appreciate your feedback.

[@frosst619]

I'm so glad I came to check first. thanks a lot. now I can dive in to this with more confidence

[@disarmyou84]

Thank you so much for this Video. I work at a Land Rover dealer and we sold one of these as a used car and now I have to replace the motor mounts. I was about to start taking the exhaust off before watching this video. Thank you!!!

[@JustinHiFi]

You’re welcome!

[@xj1085]

Best and concise video. 🎉 subscribed

[@JustinHiFi]

You’re welcome!

[@mil-specgarage55]

Hey thanks for the video, just did this on my 2016 90K miles. This was a pain int he but. I also had to drop the diff an inch or so, i found that after lifting the vehicle a couple time the suspension was more inflated so it kept the frame sitting a bit higher. Overall i am glad i tackled this and would have taken a lot longer if i did not watch your video. My next job is to fix a leaking oil pan gasket. Any experience with that? i am having problems locating one, might be a liquid gasket.

[@Chip6565]

I did a driver side mount today. Same vehicle. To add to the content: with the exception of the turbo charge pipe upper clamp bolt everything is done from the underside of the vehicle. AC unbolt and just sit it on the crossmember and it’s out of the way. The belt is a bitch to get off I had to make a special tool, basically a 17mm short socket cut shorter with a nut welded to it. A large offset wrench to relieve the tensioner and still be able to remove the tool when it’s off as the tensioner will tuck behind the turbo cooler. Most of my day wasted on this part. Or you can remove the turbo cooler.. Remove turbo pipe, AC compressor, then heat shield. Remove all three engine mount bolts. The top one needed a 16mm long socket cut a bit shorter to clear the turbo housing when ratcheting it off. You will see, a short socket and one inch extension is too long and a long socket is too long. You also have to remove the front differential mount 19mm bolt and let the differential drop a 1/2” to get the motor mount out after jacking up the engine as far as it will go. Hope this helps! Assembly goes much easier!

[@manassehkofi]

Thank you so much

[@JustinHiFi]

You’re welcome!

[@jonathanchang2561]

Can you video how to change auxiliary battery 2015 gl450. Thank you

[@gregpeterorji8212]

Hello, Hope you're doing well? Nice and great job/video. I have same vehicle and my alternator is bad. Please can you guide me on how to replace it. Thanks alot

[@dustinlewis5018]

Have you also done this by removing the downpipes off the turbo and accessing from the back? Wondering if that would be easier until I read some other comments you don’t have to crack the AC lines and can just position the compressor out of the way. Great Video! Thank You!

[@JustinHiFi]

I have done that process on some C, E and S class Mercedes with success. Sometimes the exhaust hardware is in pretty poor (rusted) condition so try to avoid dealing with that possible headache.

[@someguy2312]

I’m midway through doing this job I have the cats removed! the clamp for the downpipes is directly behind the airbox🤷🏽‍♂️

[@juniormontelongo7688]

The is a nipple on each motor mount the nipple on the passenger side on my 2017 gle43 amg faces towards the front of the car ..does the nipple face towrds the rear of the car on the driverside mount.

[@dustinlewis5018]

How did you slide drivers heat shield out? Do you have to remove that small 3 inch long rubber tube in front? Looks like a small coolant line but would prefer to not opening the cooling system if I don’t have to. Looks like removing the steering shaft might free up enough room to get it out but wondering if you ever needed to do that.

[@dustinlewis5018]

Just read a few comments and Looks like some people removed bottom bolts and jacked up the motor to get room to pull the shield out. I’ll give that a shot in the AM.

[@commandodan2001]

So... newbie to work of this magnitude- are you saying all this can be done from above??? I feel like some early steps or context were skipped.

[@JustinHiFi]

No, unfortunately work is done from the top and bottom of vehicle. I tried to condense the entire job into one cut video about halfway through the job giving some tips along the way. Let me know if you have any other questions, good wrenchin'!

[@patricwell8335]

I know this video its a year old. Im hoping to get some advice..if the driver engine mount is really bad. Could it cuz the driver axle to make noise under load

[@JustinHiFi]

Sorry for the delay in reply. Typically no unless the engine is lifting up extremely high and the driver/shaft is contacting the chassis or strut.

[@pashkoskoda3862]

What’s the cost for a job like that? I believe I have the same issue on a 2014 gl450.

[@TexasBroskiActual]

Dealer, over $2000…

[@decotech2936]

How would U know they need to be changed pls

[@mrfatman6071]

It just happened to my Gl450 the parts cost around 250$ what it looks like but the labor might be expensive 500$ to 800$ depends on mechanic that

[@mbzmech1]

How do you get to the drivers side motor mount top bolt ?

[@radiumsoup]

I had to jack the engine quite a bit to be able to reach mine and to be able to pull the heat shield (mount almost totally collapsed)

[@jamalal-raisi6988]

I wonder if you really need to remove AC compressor and the alternator to replace engine mounts?!

[@JustinHiFi]

You could also remove the exhaust system and downpipes, however you then run the risk of broken (rusted) hardware. Having a R134a AC machine makes compressor R&R very simple.

[@fixingproblems3183]

Isn’t easier to remove the cat vs. a/c compressor ?

[@JustinHiFi]

The downpipe and exhaust system on this vehicle was quite badly rusted. It may be quicker to start, until a V band clamp breaks off. :(

[@littlejoey6341]

I bought a new 2019 gls 450 it’s now 4 years old with 36,000 miles and mine failed already I owned Chevys and Gmc took them up to 150k before changing them get it together Mercedes