2020 Honda CT125 Hunter Cub Trail - 41 Tooth Rear Sprocket Ride Review!

[@johngifford7725]

This is like watching The Mighty Jingles. I watch you play this game, so I don't have to buy one. I'm going to mock up a Royal Enfield Classic 500 for this same job as soon as we get the move behind us. I love the C90, and CT110. Great bikes. Your videos are VERY informative, and highly entertaining, for anyone interested in these. You're absolutely rocking it. Thanks for another great video.

[@ridewithwarro]

coming shorty-my top 21 accessories on this bike.just in the process of putting it together

[@johntucker469]

Hello Warro,,,American here,been watching you sometime now,enjoy hanging with ya,have 2 Honda CT 90's comments here about the shifting,,autoclutch has much more shifter pressure that nomal bike shifter,,maybe 2 times the travel distance,the first half of shifter travel is depressing the pressure springs for the clutch,the last bit of travel is for the gear shift.im an old guy now and i find it hard to get my heel or toe on that rear shifter,,i find the way to go is a hand shifter. was gonna make one and found one for an ATV...its called Moose Utility Shifter..clamps over existing shifter,,,Love it Best Wishes Warro

[@ridewithwarro]

willhave to check it out. meanwhile i have tested it with the13t/41t combo. i can now say -the little beast really can can climb hills and climb well!

[@montgomery9140]

Thank you for all your information, testing and advise. I appreciate your time and effort!

[@ridewithwarro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@danxfly1]

Thanks for your video content! I watch this and is very best! Sorry for my englis!

[@ridewithwarro]

all good-happyto hear you enjoy the content

[@MadsWorld34]

i just bought a 41 tooth for mine. and a 15 tooth for the front and changed from a 2.78 to a2.73 gear ratio but whats nice is i can drop my front and get lower gears pretty fast. i hope it works the way i want it to. because i plan on doing the TAT trail in October. i know with a stock engine i wont gain any speed but i can hopefully get more power once i get out west.

[@ridewithwarro]

good call there

[@frankkollar2278]

I would toss that sprocket myself drilling the holes may have made it fit but there is no way to ensure it stayed hubcentric I realize that the trail is a slow bike and you likely cannot feel the resulting vibration but at the very least it will probably cause accelerated chain wear Just my $0.02 Anyway I am enjoying your videos keep them coming I am looking forward to the suspension install/review Hope you and yours are staying safe and healthy Cheers

[@ridewithwarro]

to do this testing i am still running my crappy factory chain and cheap sprockets - once this is all out of the way i will probably put good stuff on the bike and call this test over. everytime i look at that suspension sitting there in the box -all i see is work....lol

[@daveinwla6360]

@@ridewithwarro - Hey, babe, I understand weariness! But other modders using YSS suspension components have reported very noticeable improvements in handling - especially mods involving the forks.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@daveinwla6360 it appears a fair bit of work involved in doing it too-front forks so i suppose sooner or later i will have to get into it and have a go.....lol

[@ridewithwarro]

no support from several emails to vss suspension thailand with oil volume or air gap info for the ct125 -been waiting for days and 6 emails later. but i can say they are good at taking the money-that was quick!

[@daveinwla6360]

@@ridewithwarro - Is "vss suspension" a typo, or did you write to "[e-mail]" which is, I believe, their Customer Service dept.?

[@shockcomadeath3525]

I installed a 13 tooth front sprocket on my new CT125. Climbing ability improved noticeably, what surprised me is that my top speed increased from 85km/hr to 100km/hr, counterintuitive I know, had me stumped for a while but I figure being 100kg the 8hp engine didn't have enough power to fully utilise 4th gear whereas a 13t sprocket allows me enough torque to access the higher revs in 4th gear. Perhaps the 14t sprocket is ideal for the average 65 to 70kg Japanese or Thai rider, not heavy westerners like me.

[@ridewithwarro]

yeah the 13t is great i was the first to try it here in australia about 2 years back...found it extremely useful indeed

[@shockcomadeath3525]

@@ridewithwarro love your channel Warro, your channel is where I got the inspiration to try it in the first place, you may not be making heaps of coin off YT but you are inspiring thousands and lots of people would go above and beyond for you thanks to your efforts and contributions

[@brianhall3260]

fitted the same ebay sprocket on the cb 125e ,yes enlarging the mounting holes was needed,but it was on the bike for 3years 8000ks without issue.the cb was the opposite it had a 45tooth standard and a 41tooth let it cruise at lower engine revs..

[@ridewithwarro]

thats good to know because i have never attacked a sprocket before with a drill...lol and it was more just a guess if it would work or not. i thought at 8 hp providing i didnt get carried away with the grinding it should be ok. i will say it took a bit of work too but at least i got it too fit

[@brianhall3260]

@@ridewithwarro I would not be surprised if a 45tooth honda cb125 e sprocket would fit your beastie and give you your hill eater needs

[@ridewithwarro]

@@brianhall3260 could...i dont know. just what others tell me what they think will work. i only want to ride this bike around dirt roads and the odd hilly area. plus i'd like to see if eventually it could climb like the old bikes they talk about. the 13t/39r helped quite a lot. i'd be happy with atopof 50 mph/80 kph and a good uphill dirt run...perfect...lol

[@iray3242]

I remember reading somewhere that a 1 tooth change on the front is equal to 4 teeth in the rear. This may explain why the new rear with the stock 14 feels less powerful.

[@ridewithwarro]

could be too. i plan to switch to the 13t and run a few hills. although bike runs fine on this combo its not for me. would be ok for most though but again i am really close to dirt road country and rough roads so i think a quick front cog swap

[@daveinwla6360]

What matters is the ratio of the rear sprocket to the front sprocket. The greater that ratio, the greater the torque to the rear wheel (and the lesser the speed). What also matters is that besides the numbers "1" and the total number of teeth in each sprocket, there are *no common factors* in the number of teeth in the two sprockets. So, 13/38 is OK, as 13=1x13, and 38=1x2x19, with no common factors besides "1". 13/40 is OK, as 13=1x13, and 40=1x2x2x2x5, with no common factors besides "1". But 13/39 is NOT OK, as 13=1x13, and 39=1x3x13, with the common factor of "13". With that, the teeth in the rear sprocket will group themselves into 3 groups of 13 teeth, and any imperfection in a tooth of the front sprocket will repeatedly be transferred by the chain links to hit just teeth in one of those groups of 13 teeth in the rear sprocket, and the rear sprocket won't wear evenly.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@daveinwla6360 got a headache now....lol

[@daveinwla6360]

@@ridewithwarro - It only matters if you care about uneven wear. If you consider sprockets and chains to be cheap and/or expendable, it doesn't matter.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@daveinwla6360 fair enough. i will be keen to try the 13t/41 as i was told that would be great at hill climbing

[@jimdoolan2277]

Just got my one in new Zealand hopefully pick up next week from oamaur honda 😬

[@rabbi7933]

Exciting news, man. Keep us posted on how it goes.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@rabbi7933 bet your excited about that-its been a long wait there. spoke to my dealer yesterday. my bike was the last hunter to arrive in the shop and that was back in late sept i think.

[@rabbi7933]

@@ridewithwarro the US one comes with a ridiculous rear mud flap with wide lights and a protruding license plate holder. Deleting all That will be my first mod.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@rabbi7933 well i could say i don't like modding-but you wouldn't believe me...lolall the best

[@danxfly1]

Hello! Your modiffications is good.But don't eliminate parts!!! For example the sproket plate guard are an important rol:SAFETY! If the chain jump over the rear sproket, the chain he blokt the rear well! In this situation the crash is imminent! I recomand you to put the sproket plate back on your bike!

[@ridewithwarro]

all good. that wastaken care of -probably not shown on the clip

[@richardharmon5682]

I really hate it when a component that looks like it should fit has holes that just don't quite line up. It makes you wonder what was going on when the component was being designed. Did the supplier just grab one off the shelf that was designed for another vehicle and sell it for a specific purpose without checking first to make sure it fit and worked properly? My other comment would be what is the purpose of the original metal shield that covered the stock sprocket and is not used on the replacement sprocket? I that some sort of safety device to catch the chain if it becomes so loose that it falls off of the sprocket? Regarding the sprocket potentially not being concentric with the hub, I would think that when you rapidly spin the wheel on the axle it should be visually obvious if it is not centered.

[@ridewithwarro]

true-that's a bit annoying for sure!

[@daveinwla6360]

I suspect that the centers of the 4 holes are evenly space, but fall on a circle that is one or two mm larger in diameter than that of the OEM sprocket. That could be due to sloppy measurement at the outset of design, or due to being put in the wrong parts bin.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@brettwicks2615 that new combo i discussed with you worked great-best move yet!

[@rabbi7933]

So any concern on the sprocket being oblong now?

[@ridewithwarro]

no drama at the moment and i have had the little beast running along at 100 kph speedo reading and it feels solid -not sure exactly how quick that is gps. so at the moment i'd say i got my $20 worth out of it for a trial run. i will be going 13t front andto the hills before i call this test over and then may go back to stock 39t rear and 13t front

[@rabbi7933]

@@ridewithwarro stay safe.

[@daveinwla6360]

@@ridewithwarro - 13t front and 39t rear would have a common factor of 13 teeth, so the rear sprocket would not wear evenly, although that unevenness may not be perceptible, depending on the evenness of the teeth in the front sprocket.

[@joedavis352]

What runs the speedometer? The old ones ran off the front wheel so no matter what sprocket change you made you didn't have to do anything to the speedo.

[@ridewithwarro]

i believe there is a sensor in the front sprocket area which picks up the speedo reading

[@joedavis352]

@@ridewithwarro boy how things have changed. I quit riding back in the seventies. As of fifteen years ago an accident left me with ribs that won't heal and a balance issue, so the trike in the picture is about as fast and as far off the ground as I get other than a car. Trail biking is a blast, thanks for your videos.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@joedavis352 nks. happy to hear you enjoy watching the clips. this is a great little bike to scoot about on in the scub. even better since i did the gearing update yesterday all the best

[@Kathikas1]

I believe you said the wheels were tubeless - how do the spokes terminate?

[@ridewithwarro]

tubed -not tubless

[@Kathikas1]

@@ridewithwarro OK- I can see now it was the SuperCub that I was thinking of. From experience I much prefer to have “lazy” tubeless wheels and their ease of fixing most punctures. I wonder if anyone has tried sealing the 17’ Hunter wheels?

[@ridewithwarro]

@@Kathikas1 dont think ive had a bike yet with tubeless but i suppose it must happen sooner or later...lol

[@bnsci9585]

I've never been on a semi-auto before, what is that rear pedal behind the shifter?

[@ridewithwarro]

thats the passengers footpeg. in australia you can carry two on it but they don't give you the rear seat only the pegs...lol/ i had to buy the rear seat myself.

[@mr.paladin8721]

The pedal behind the front shifter is the up-shift pedal. Press down on the front one to downshift. A toe-up shift on the front one is difficult on this bike because you are having to manhandle two clutches actually, the actual clutch and the centrifugal clutch. It can be done but it's hard on the toes.

[@djbrettell]

@@mr.paladin8721 Yes, although as a bike rider who has never owned a bike with this kind of clutch I'm finding it hard to break a habit of a lifetime of toe shifting. I've not even tried changing with my heal yet (it feels very alien to me right now), I think I have a lot of training my brain in order to use my heal. But it is definitely going to save my toes (and boots) so I will need to learn and make it instinctive.

[@daveinwla6360]

@@djbrettell - Retraining the brain isn't that hard. I went from shifting on the left to shifting on the right in about a day. There are people who go back and forth between driving on either side of the road a couple times a day without crashing. In the case of "stomp shifting" with the heel, the ankle bends the same way as with toe shifting, so it's also not hard.

[@djbrettell]

@@daveinwla6360 Yes, you are right. I've driven a car on both sides of the road no problem, so will get used to the heel shifting. I think it doesn't help that I cannot feel the pedal under the heal of my boot where as I can with clicking up with my toes. Anyway, still getting used to it. I keep trying to stick the CT125 into 5th gear :-) Downshifting to use engine breaking, something I always use when riding a big bike, is almost non-existent with the CT125. Another thing I'm coming to grips with.

[@larrythomas7049]

If you change to a better taller tire that to will change your gearing

[@ridewithwarro]

looks like i will be soon using gps continuously to get my speedo reading-too many mods...lol

[@Free_Ranger_CT110]

Lots of online calculators to easily show you the difference. 14/39 to 14/41 is +4.9% torque & -4.9% speed. 14/39 to 13/41 is +11.7% torque -11.7% speed. Hope this helps. sprocketcalculator.com/

[@ridewithwarro]

sounds good-thanks for the info

[@danxfly1]

If you want to improve a best modification to your bike, I recomand you to put on your bike a manual clutch from new Honda Monkey. Is the best mod to control and race your bike in off-road or on-road! The manual clutch will leave you to kep the rpm. at full torque rpm.

[@ridewithwarro]

always a thought

[@danxfly1]

@@ridewithwarro I am from Romania (est Europe).I have a litle bike Lifan LF50Q very popular bike in my country.She is same to old Honda Cub.She have a manual clutch. I made some modifications on her motor...110cc big bore kit...110cc crankshaft...compresion ratio up to 9,6:1....manifold intake up to 23mm....new PZ21 carburator...front chain sproket with 15 teth... enduro tires 2,75x17....etc. Now she ride with 85...90 km/h. It's a lovely bike! I ride in every sunday 200...300 km to the mountain, or to the Blak Sea...for my pleasure. I love this litle bike!☺

[@danxfly1]

I watch on your chanel and he inspire me at future mod for my bike. Mabe colour...front rack...rear shock absorbers...Thank you for all!

[@ridewithwarro]

@@danxfly1 great little story there and happy to hear you enjoy the advenures you have in the great outdoors on that little bike

[@ridewithwarro]

@@danxfly1 pretty happy with the front rack but i think i'd source a cheaper brand of rear shocks and they would still do thesame job and sabe you a bit of cash for some other mods too