2022 FOX Factory Float 34 GRIP2 VVC Full Service guide for beginners. You asked for it, you Got it!

[@zoubtube]

Hey folks. Someone brought up the point that this video guide seems to be missing two steps when setting the HSR VVC tolerance when compared to the FOX guide. The FOX guide states to adjust the tension on the feeler gauge using a 10mm wrench on the nut, which screws in the HSR shaft, and then torque to .23nm, which is VERY little force. In order to do this correctly, you still need to hold the HSR rebound shaft, most likely with the HSR knob In the guide I posted, I'm using the HSR knob, which turns the HSR shaft into the nut, until I meet the .03" tolerance using the feeler gauge, which I find to be more convenient. To me, Both are exactly the same process with the same results. Then, the fox guide states: "Rotate the HSR Shaft counter-clockwise 4 clicks (approximately 72 degrees of rotation). Tighten the HSR nut screw clockwise to 8 in-lb (0.9 Nm) torque with a 2mm hex wrench." At this stage of the fox guide, the HSR detent ball ISN'T installed (and more importantly, shouldn't be installed) in the HSR lower shaft, so there are no clicks to count. The 4 clicks/72 degrees they mention, are literally the end points of the VVC rotation at either side. Then they state to tighten the nut to lock it all in place. I lock the nut in place while holding it down in the middle of the travel in the video right after setting the tolerance. Honestly, I don't see any difference here. In either case, if the tolerance of .03" is met at the middle of the VVC rotation, I don't see a difference in locking the stack it in place at the middle point, or moving the nut and leaf spring to an end point, prior to installing the detent ball. In either case, when rotating the leaf spring to either end, the tension should be identical when considering the tolerance was set in the middle. Am I missing something here? Can someone who works in a FOX service shop verify this and explain if there truly is a difference, and the reasoning behind it. I really don't want to set people down the wrong path and will take down the video and edit it if this part is inaccurate. Thank you for your time

[@samperi01]

would like to see factory dhx2 full service. Your videos are top quality, thank you!

[@zoubtube]

Thank for the kind words. Funny thing is I was set to make a video out of one about a month ago, only to find out my buddy sold it. I'll come across another one this winter

[@grzegorzdrozdz189]

Finally! Proper guide for servicing this thinq. Sub for you

[@zoubtube]

Glad to hear that the video might help you. and thank you for the support. let me know if you have any questions

[@FullSenderson]

You’re the best dude. Thank you.

[@zoubtube]

Thank you so much for this kind gesture. 🙂 It is very much appreciated 👍

[@tiatitititi8016]

Thanks for the tutorial. But here is the correct manipulation to correctly put the 2nd piston back 1:28:43 . You forget to turn it 4 clicks counter-clockwise. This comes from the Fox user manual. Step 39 Position the Leaf Spring in the approximate middle of it's adjustment range. Insert a 0.030" (0.76 mm) thick shim into the space between the HSR Nut and the Leaf Spring. Hold the HSR Nut against the Piston Assembly then tighten clockwise to 2 in-lb (0.23 Nm) torque with your 10mm wrench. Rotate the HSR Shaft counter-clockwise 4 clicks (approximately 72 degrees of rotation). Tighten the HSR Nut screw clockwise to 8 in-lb (0.9 Nm) torque with a 2mm hex wrench.

[@zoubtube]

While the methods differ, the outcome is identical. Instead of using a 10mm wrench to tighten the nut to to the shaft in order to adjust tension on the feeler gauge (which you would still need to hold the HSR knob at the bottom in order to adjust tension), I'm using the HSR knob to turn the shaft into the nut, while holding it, to adjust the tension on the feeler gauge. And instead of locking the nut down after rotating it to the stop nipple (oooh Nipple), which is the 72 degrees, or 4 clicks, they mention, I just hold it down in place and lock it. Also, the detent ball isn't installed for the high-speed compression at this point, so there are no clicks to count as per their instructions. Ultimately, You know you're in the middle of the ramp when you can go 4 clicks to each side after you put the HSR detent ball in when you're done. Have I been missing something here? Honestly folks let me know. It seems to me it's a different means to the exact same end. Tension to set the correct tolerance can only be adjusted using the HSR shaft and the nut, which is the same when done at either end

[@motocraneguy17]

@@zoubtubeI measured my clearance before disassembling and it was 0.030” from a Fox authorized service center. It kinda is ridiculous to me to set it at 0.030” clearance, torque it to 2 in/lb, then back it off 4 clicks. Because at my best attempt of doing that, I ended up back at 0.030”. Which is why it was probably set that way from the service center in the first place. Ultimately it changes the rebound stack stiffness and really could be manipulated how damped you want your HSR, to a degree.

[@ThunderStruckMTB]

So good!

[@zoubtube]

Hopefully it will come in handy. As always, if you have any questions let me know

[@FullSenderson]

5wt is discontinued. 4wt can be used in all previous 5wt applications as per Fox for previous generations of forks. I always comment but I’ll say it again, your videos are a godsend. I was about to get busy on my 34 and along game this video.

[@zoubtube]

Your comments are always appreciated myman. 👍 If you get a chance to use the guide, please let me know how the flow is, or if you have any suggestions for improvement in future videos. Also, try to ignore the intermittent audio issues. I’ve recently discovered that noise cancellation settings on my mic were causing these problems. Hopefully, I’ve fixed the issue for good, as I was spending countless hours editing out a ridiculous amount of audio anomalies per video lately. So it's official then? All older products will move to 4wt? I keep forgetting to ask them whenever I call. I had a feeling they were going to make this change when I saw the all the new stuff was 4wt. As always, let me know if you have any questions

[@benjaminwimmer5528]

I‘m only here to wait for the answer… 😁 Thanks for your great Videos! 🙏Merry Christmas 🎄⭐️ Greetings from Germany ✌🏻

[@Busby7744]

Cheers sir!

[@zoubtube]

Thanks for watching. Hopefully it will come in handy one day.

[@Manetty6]

You should definetly make merch t-shirt with a pick on it and a text: "...come on, come on.". :)

[@zoubtube]

😆 Either that or "mkay", but I think southpark owns the rights that one 😁

[@Manetty6]

@@zoubtube :D

[@Mateo_Conka]

how this guy dont have milions of subscribes?

[@zoubtube]

Thank you very much for the positive feedback. Right now I'd just be happy if these videos at least paid for the electricity that the lights to make them generate, never mind the lights themselves, which at this rate will take over two years to pay off. 😉But hey, If it helps some people gain some confidence to do some of these jobs, then that's good thing, right 👍

[@radred512]

Excellent as always. Have you performed a 36 fit4 to grip 2 or grip x2 upgrade? Would love to see this done before I attempt it. I've only done a basic lower leg service.

[@zoubtube]

Thank for the comment. I have, but I don't know when the next time I'll come across this scenario in order to make a video out of it. It's by no means a difficult job as your literally just swapping cartridges, but there are a couple of details you need to be aware of, like making sure to clean ALL the remaining 20 wt oil out of the upper tube and lower leg if your replacing a fit 4 with a grip 2. This is key because the grip 2 needs 5wt (or now 4wt) oil in the lower leg as opposed the the fit 4 which uses 20wt.

[@clarks888]

The Lost Co has a Fox 36 service video that includes a damper install. Slightly different method to the lower leg service too, so some good tricks of the trade to pick up, but they don’t do a full service like we see here.

[@radred512]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2W3eWNnitZ4ptU

[@ttran037]

Wish this video was out 6 months ago when I attempted to perform this service. The o ring at 1:22:36 was so hard to replace. I ended up snapping 2 or 3 of them. Afterward I gave up. Ended just buying a new damper :( I wonder now if the o ring I used may have not been the right size or maybe I got it mixed up in the kit although I was certain that it was the right one

[@zoubtube]

I feel for you myman. It could've been that the oring wasn't the right size, but even at the right size the freakin thing is stubborn as hell. Oh well, sucks having to spend the extra money but every once in a while we take our hits. As long as you enjoyed the new damper for the season, then it lessons the blow a bit! 👍

[@troybirt9331]

Is this the same procedure for the 2022 36 grip 2

[@zoubtube]

Yup! excluding the tools like the wiper install tool.

[@ailllx9010]

Hi ,i was wondering if i should upgrade my stock wheels to some mavic XL R 29 er carbon cuz i found them on sale a set for 600 euro ~ and the main thing are they good for enduro mainly and some trail?? Bdw great video

[@zoubtube]

Thanks for the comment. I haven't owned mavic rims since around 2012 so i can't say how well their current rims are made. but looking at the specs, it seems to be a good xc/trial rim. 600 euro new seems like a really good price to. Worse case if you don't like them, you should be able to sell them close to what your paying for them. I'd give it a shot for that price