2022+ Hyundai Elantra N Aftermarket Front & Center Channel Speakers vs OEM Bose Review

[@P2G_HoRRis]

Just ordered a 2023 EN a couple weeks ago and one of my biggest questions for the dealer was about the ease of upgrading audio equipment. They had no answers for me but I have watched all the videos on your channel now and they have answered every question I've had. Love the videos, keep up the great work!

[@cgallagher18105]

Thank you! I’m glad the videos helped answer your questions. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to comment or reach out to me, I’d be happy to help.

[@raphaelrondelli]

I'm sorry, but Hyundai does not have "Orders", you probably placed a Priority Bank option with the dealership. That could be or not be fulfilled anytime soon. Unfortunately that it is the truth.

[@P2G_HoRRis]

Yes it is not an active order yet, rather a reserved production model. So I have a Vin assigned to me but the car has not entered production yet. Estimated wait time was between 4 - 7 months.

[@raphaelrondelli]

@@P2G_HoRRis Is that in Canada?

[@P2G_HoRRis]

It is indeed

[@thegreatdlux]

Thank you for this, appreciate the review

[@nprform]

You’re welcome! I hope the video helps.

[@IzzyEG6]

I utilized your guide (TY very much)to upgrade all the speakers in my N including the sub in it's stock location. While very happy with the overall sound the sub could use more oomph. I went this route because I wanted to keep weight at a minimum if not less. So this being said, what would you recommend for a mono Amp to power the single JL Audio 8W1v3-4? For reference it has an RMS rating of 150 watts. TY in advance.

[@nprform]

Long answer, here goes, lol! Listed by price, lowest to highest. 1. Kicker 46CXA400.1t 150watts@4ohm (least expensive retail price, exact RMS power for your sub), 2. Alpine KTA200M 200watts@4ohm (very small light) 3. JL Audio JD 250/1 150@4ohm (if you want to stay with JL products), 4. Alpine S2A60M 330watts@4ohm (max power for sub, better to go too much than too little power, best power per dollar), 5. AudioControl ACM-1.300 175watts@4ohm (small size, LC2i built-in for easy integration into factory system, more money, but saves space and the need for additional LOC)

[@IzzyEG6]

TY so much for your quick and thorough answer, but one last ?... Do I need LC2i? Or can I simply go with any of your suggestions without it?

[@nprform]

@@IzzyEG6 You can go without it, but you’ll need an high level adapter, which is about $20. With that being said, you will get a better sound using an active LOC like the LC2i pro. Also, if you want to control the amp’s volume from the driver’s seat, you’ll need to factor in about $30-$60 for a remote knob. Again, the audio control amp is more money but comes with an active LOC built in. The audio control amp is on sale right now on Amazon. Here’s a link. amzn.to/3SazKVc or you may want to check eBay for a lower price. I like the size, build quality, and connection flexibility of the AudioControl product over the other amps, if you don’t want to buy a separate active LOC.

[@nprform]

@@IzzyEG6 ACR-1 volume knob is on sale as well for $27.50. Audio Control ACR1 Remote for Audio Control Processors a.co/d/1TEnLzN

[@nprform]

@@IzzyEG6 The Alpine S2-A60M would be second choice, especially for the price right now $156 on Amazon is less than I paid! amzn.to/46LBlVW You could get it, see if you like the sound, and add an active LOC later, if you want. At $156 for the amp you’d be at $266 with the amp, LC2i pro, and the ARC-1 volume control knob. Plus you’ll have plenty of power if you ever want to upgrade your sub. Just another idea.

[@pgomez123]

Do you know the rear door speaker size?

[@nprform]

They are the same size as the fronts, 6 1/2”.

[@pgomez123]

Thanks!

[@figlinn]

I feel like you never really gave how much you like it vs. the stock. Was it worth the money to you? How much did it cost? Couldntou give the before a 1-10 and after a 1-10?

[@nprform]

As far as cost, that could vary, depending on which items you need or want. But just for the speakers and mounts you’re looking at about $350 for the front speakers and $50-$60 for the center speaker. I feel a sub $500 upgrade to the speakers, for the sound improvement I got, was worth it. And the installation was not overly complicated. Please refer to my install video. Than you!

[@nprform]

I'm new to this, so your feedback is appreciated. I feel the upgrade is worth it over the Bose speakers. Especially, after I upgraded the subwoofer, since the factory speakers didn't have the crisp sound I wanted. The factory speakers would be about a 5 (average) and the aftermarket speakers would be about a 7 (very good). I would score them a bit higher with an upgraded amplifier and even higher with a DSP, but this would add even more cost, which I didn't feel would be worth doing. I wanted to keep the build at a conservative cost level. Most people want performance for this car, not a full blown high-end car audio system.

[@figlinn]

@@nprform thanks for the great response! Gonna try out the speakers and if it's a no go for me, I'll be following your videos for the front and center upgrades

[@nprform]

@@figlinn No problem. I hope my videos help. Please feel free to reach out if you need help and have questions.

[@andrewogrady8821]

Would the method you used to change speakers work on the Elantra SEL

[@cgallagher18105]

Yes, it will be the same. The only difference, I know of, between the trims would be the color of the plugs going into the Bose amplifier. But that doesn’t apply, if you are simply replacing the front speakers.

[@vifquain6012]

Used your video to add the Dayton center and it was super helpful and I am happy with the results. Next, I'd like to replace the front door speakers as well. I see your product links have additional items now (wish I knew about the pre-cut center adapter before!) You list a few 6.5" options now. Please explain and thank you!

[@nprform]

I’m glad the video and center speaker suggestion helped. I personally prefer Focal speakers for their particular sound. I put the Alpine S series as an alternative, due to their cost, quality, and easy of install because of their built in crossovers, no need for a crossover box. There are other good options available. Also, adding an amp would increase your options further.

[@ionutbucur5970]

Very nice videos !!

[@nprform]

Thank you!

[@chaseo4557]

No power issues or electrical issues since installing aftermarket speakers?

[@nprform]

No issues what so ever.

[@SaimonZ69]

Ty. Just what I was looking for

[@nprform]

I hope it helps!

[@dubber4life]

if you could do just one upgrade which would it be? just sub, or just front speakers including center?

[@cgallagher18105]

For me the sub was the most important. And I would actually put the center as my second choice over the front speakers, due to the cost and improvement in sound. I really like the focal front speakers over the Bose, especially the tweeters, but the center was definitely the weakest link and the cost was so low, it’s hard not to do that upgrade.

[@dubber4life]

@@cgallagher18105 perfect, Thanh you!

[@godzilla7391]

What size are the door speakers? Great choice with the Focals also.. I'm thinking of either them or Hertz

[@nprform]

6 1/2”. Thank you! Both are good choices.

[@godzilla7391]

@nprform I have some 6.5s Focals in my Genesis coupe on a 500 watt Kenwood Excelon amp, and they sound so good . I also have a custom box made for 2 Memphis 6.5 subs on a Memphis 1k amp also in it. I don't need all that bass. Just clarity and decent lows.

[@godzilla7391]

@@nprform Also, are rears 6.5s also? Gonna replace both

[@nprform]

@@godzilla7391 I set-up my system to not be overly bass heavy. It’s very clean, crisp, and loud. I went with a single 12” subwoofer, because of cost, size, and amount of bass it would produce.

[@nprform]

@@godzilla7391 Yes, they are. I sound deadened the rear doors, but didn’t replace the speakers. I didn’t see a real benefit, unless you have passengers, but I never do. Upgraded rears would help give a bit more high frequency output for rear passengers.

[@mharro88]

Hey man considering you've taken this dash apart, I wanted to ask you... I've noticed a dash rattle in my Elantra n ... Seems to be towards the driver's side and goes away when I hold up the drivers cluster visor ... Do you know what could be causing this.. it vibrates over rough roads only. Like plastic on plastic sound

[@nprform]

No, I don’t. I had a similar rattle, but had since stopped, so I didn’t really investigate it.

[@eddieaguilera3548]

Where did you get the phone holder?

[@nprform]

Amazon. I have a video with a link in the description. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoSlZqeglLKLprs

[@warwickdutnell7151]

Do you know the wattage output of the factory amplifier by chance?

[@nprform]

I’m sorry I don’t. I’ve been unable to find any information on the actual wattage output of the amp.

[@johnnyappleseed9568]

Thoughts on the infinity system in Veloster N?

[@nprform]

I’ve only heard the system briefly during a test drive. From what I heard, the system sounded fine, for an upgraded system, but like the Bose system, it could use some improvement.

[@t3rb0rg]

Old post I know, but having a `24 Elantra N and a `19 Elantra GT N-Line with the Infinity system, I find the Infinity wins for brightness and clarity, though you need to raise the bass setting to about +4 or +5 (resulting in a need to go +1 on mid and +1 on treble) for best results. The Bose system likely has more power than the Infinity, but it's muddy, lacking in clarity; the mids and highs aren't as good. I'm happy with the Infinity system; I'm replacing all but the sub in my Elantra N with speakers from Audison. I may do the sub later if I can get a guide from someone who did a good drop-in replacement of the 8" (I've looked at options from Dayton Audio, Focal, Pioneer, and JL Audio). I'm not looking for more power, but I would like it crisper, with more accuracy and better dynamic range.

[@johnnyappleseed9568]

@@t3rb0rg thanks, going to try this in my car

[@t3rb0rg]

@@johnnyappleseed9568 Got my car back from professional install. I have an Audison AP2-MV 2" replacing the center channel, Audison APK165 Ohm2 component systems in the front doors, and Audison APX 6.5 2-ways for the rears. Difference is night and day regarding dynamic range and clarity. So good, it shows the weakness of the Bose sub. I now have "sound immersion" rather than just "not bad sound. Some of that is also the professional install; noise isolation of the speakers was done properly (foam), and doors had some sound deadening matt applied. Next year's budget may be for an Audison DSP and small-box subwoofer. Otherwise, I need to see if there's a good 8" infinite-baffle sub from one of several manufacturers (JL Audio, Focal, Kicker, or Pioneer) that can do the job with minor modifications and be dropped in.

[@josephrincon7166]

I don’t have my N yet, but I’m curious how it sounds. I’m coming from a 2018 Kia Optima 10-speaker Harmon Kardon system that I am happy with. I’m hoping it’s not much worse or I’ll be doing the speaker swap. Appreciate the videos.

[@kelloncupid]

Yes, the Bose is worse than your Harmon Kardon.

[@Arkeny-SS]

Pioner !!!