2024 Jeep Gladiator - NIT PICK SESSION - All The Bad I Can Find

2024 Jeep Gladiator - NIT PICK SESSION - All The Bad I Can Find
Great off road accessories:
Traction boards: amzn.to/3ObpBnY
Snatch strap: amzn.to/3rHQ0C7
Recovery Strap: amzn.to/43BlzuC
Saw: amzn.to/3Q4riWN
Soft shackles: amzn.to/3XZL5bT
Viaair compressor: amzn.to/3uS2Mgc
Xbull 13500 XRS Winch: amzn.to/49JSh0Q
Xbull Winch Cradle: amzn.to/49GCJL8
30 Foot Cables I used: amzn.to/3Pfpp8g
Snatch ring & Soft Shackles: amzn.to/43al6AW
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[@DefianceMoraine]

Jason, That was very thorough (as you always are). It is possible to get a 115-volt outlet in the bed, but only as part of a Cargo Group that comes with a lockable box that fills the underseat storage area, trail rails around the top of the bed, and a roll-up tonneau cover. It is rare to find that option on a truck sitting on a dealer lot because sales managers realize that most buyers would go into cardiac arrest when they see the $2095 MSRP for the package.

[@Jason-Samko]

Very good to know. Crazy how it has to mixed in a package like that

[@vincentdemers6066]

I've installed the oem in mine. You can order all the parts separately and either get the dealer to activate it through software or do it with a Tazer JL.

[@Jason-Samko]

@@vincentdemers6066 excellent information. Thank you

[@joeetlinger3423]

Great kob Jason. Here's a few more: - shallow bed, several coolers, generators and other popular items do not fit under the tonneau. Last in class I believe in terms of bed depth. - cabin noise / lack of insulation in roof panels. I shouldn't have to buy aftermarket headliner kit to reduce the wind noise and provide thermal protection. Should be standard on all gladiators. - using the small wrangler rear doors instead of a bespoke door that fits the lines of the gladiator. They are very small, making it difficult to get car seats or other larger items in and out of backseat. Would not cost them much to make a bespoke door.

[@joeetlinger3423]

Just thought of another, shouldn't have to purchase a tazer mini to get full use of transfer case and lockers.

[@Jason-Samko]

@@joeetlinger3423 all excellent points

[@DUNEATV]

Yeah, I tried to find anything wrong with my 2024 Wrangler. Been over it with a fine tooth comb! She’s perfectly built!

[@Jason-Samko]

Agree. It's such an amazing vehicle

[@devildog5004]

Mr Jason, my name is George and I'm from Southern NJ. I have the same exact Gladiator, 2023 Rubicon Granite Crystal, same one and I love it... To answer your question approximately 9 minutes 30 seconds into your video regarding that piece of metal/bracket looking thing on the passenger side on chassis....... it's a crash guard to prevent you from rolling your truck... LMFAO, yes... it's to prevent the front axle from being pushed back towards the rear and preventing that situation causing the Gladiator/Jeep from possible flipping/rolling over.. I have seen people in fact cut and grind that off and paint over the area in black of course. It is supposed to be an anti-rollover safety bracket. Check it out for yourself my friend. Once again my name is George, and I really enjoy your Gladiator videos you post! Also you never mentioned this tip with hidden Gladiator "secrets" , like the locking rear seat you mentioned, ect ect... Did you know your Gladiator can fit 4 x 8 sheet rock or plywood in the bed laying flat... yes flat... the groves in you bed over the wheel well fits a piece of 2 x 4 across, then towards the tailgate a piece of 2 x 6 upright in that groove/slot, and lastly your tailgate, look at either side of the end of your bed you'll see these 1/2 moon looking things, lift your tail gate half way and tuck the tailgate straps/cables behind the half moon looking things and let your tailgate go.... your tailgate will rest halfway open and perfectly aligned with the 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 even with the upper lip/edge of your tailgate. And now a piece of 4 x 8 plywood or sheet rock will fit and lay flat in the bed of your Gladiator. Jeep really does put a lot of thought into their trucks!

[@Jason-Samko]

Thank you for the amazing info! Greatly appreciated. And your right about the bed being able to fit a sheet of ply above the wheel wheels on and the extra position on the tail gate. I remember learning about that when I bought mine. Forgot all about it until you just brought it back up! Thank you.

[@LTX-Shep]

Nicely done. Agree on all points. Not having power in the bed is a head-stratcher...why wouldn't Jeep put a plug in the bed if they are "serious offroaders"?

[@Jason-Samko]

I guess you can get bed power another commenter told me but you have to buy a special package to get it. But agree 100%. Never seen a gladiator with bed power at a dealer.

[@dos0711]

That's a yes on the winch plate. The bumper has the cutouts but a winch plate and fairlead are needed.

[@Jason-Samko]

Thank you. That's what I though I remembered reading

[@andymckane7271]

Two minor points: I've long suspected: (1) Car manufacturers don't like putting an auto-up feature on power windows because of the potential of liability lawsuits. Too many kids like to play with power windows. I know, I was one of them when my dad bought a new Chrysler New Yorker in 1957 while my family was living in Idaho Falls. My brother and I would put our hands at the inside top of a door's window frame while the window was down. We'd see how long we could keep our hands or fingers in between the top of window and the upper part of the door frame when the window was almost fully up. (My 2011 Buick Enclave CLX or whatever it's called, has had auto-up and auto-down since new. My 2012 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, of course, has only the auto-down feature. Each time my wife and I are on another island and have a rental Wrangler or a rental Gladiator, I always complain to her that "the - - - - windows still lack the auto-up feature." Perhaps one of these days I'll write a letter to Jeep's engineering department!) I really believe this is looked at by Jeep executives as a way to limit the number of product liability lawsuits they're up against. (I know Lee Iacocca used to get deeply annoyed at Americans and "their product liability lawsuits." I know of a funny story where one American sued Land Rover back in the 1970's because he was trying to start his Land Rover with a "starting handle," aka handcrank (p/n 218508). His L-R was a few feet from a wall of some sort. The vehicle's ignition was turned on. For whatever reason the engine was off/ignition on. When it started on the handcrank, it pinned the idiot between the L-R's front bumper and the wall in front of the vehicle. I heard this story second hand from a Rover/Land Rover executive in Britain. It was told to me over the phone and was used as one of the reasons Rover did not want to sell the Land Rover in the North American market. This was back in the 1970's or early 1980's,, probably between 1978 and 1982.) Item two: Why does Jeep make it as difficult as it is to lock the front and rear differentials on Rubicon models? When a differential is locked, "transmission wind-up" as the British used to call it back in the 1960's and 1970's, is more severe than when both differentials on a 4-wheel drive system are non-locking diffs. The original Range Rover of 1970 had permanent four-wheel drive with an open center (third) differential. Operators were told to only use the center diff lock under extreme conditions. Land Rovers in those days, I'm talking the co-called "series" vehicles, the Series I's, the Series II & IIA's, and the Series III's had a massive problem with broken half shafts. (The half shafts were mostly rear half shafts that would break. When I was in the Land Rover parts business made it a point of telling customers: "When you break one rear half shaft, replace both." The second shaft usually would break fairly soon after the opposite side had broken. To this day, I can tell you the old ten-spline rear Rover axle shaft used part number 591378 on the right rear, and 591379 on the left rear. The left side, both front and rear had a longer shafter than the right side of the vehicle had.) I think I've only locked by front and rear differentials on my Rubicon once or, possibly twice. I'm sure a friend must have locked them when he drove my Ruby through the "Golden Crack" in Moab. I would not subject my vehicle to that obstacle, so I had someone else drive it through who himself had a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, although his was the first model year for the Ruby and he had the shorter wheelbase. The longer wheelbase Ruby, mine, made it through that "Golden Crack" on its first attempt. I've broken many (almost certainly more than half a dozen) rear axle shafts on Series Land Rovers over the years. I have never broken an axle shaft on my Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. I use 4-wheel drive, mostly low range and low speed when needed. As noted above, I try not to use either the front or rear locking differential unless it is absolutely necessary. Your videos are always great! I've been sick with a cold the last 5 or 6 days, so I've enjoyed myself and amused myself today with your interesting videos. Thank you very much! Andy McKane, Maunaloa, Molokai, Hawaii.

[@Jason-Samko]

Both very solid points. Didnt even think about the lawsuits on the windows! Thank you for the detailed write up and info. Makes perfect sense. Glad you are feeling better.

[@dos0711]

It is so funny that you mentioned the door nets. I'm fixing to delete mine and put some DV8 replacements. The extra storage will be nice.

[@Jason-Samko]

Dv8 makes some great stuff

[@dos0711]

Most Jeep people prefer the prop rod because it allows you to not use it and lay (gently) the hood back against the windshield for complete access to the engine compartment.

[@Jason-Samko]

Very true and a great point

[@dos0711]

Here's a nit...all model Wranglers and Gladiators should come with the LED package.

[@Jason-Samko]

Agree. But I actually prefer the money saving in the no led package and adding my own Amazon for 50 bucks. Have done thst to my last 6 vehicles and love the results. I change the head lights and the back up lights to led bulbs. Works like a champ and saves a fortune over the led package

[@Coyote5555]

I agree on the window controls wish the windows were all one touch up/down

[@Jason-Samko]

Agree 100%. Very annoying especially on a vehicle that has all windows down so often

[@dos0711]

a 37 will fit in the spare well but you have to deflated it some. Sounds like a pain but I carry an air compressor.

[@Jason-Samko]

Very nice. Good to know it fits without changing the track bar

[@dominica2765]

I put a aluminum skid plate for transmission and oil pad and they should’ve put an aluminum housing for the filter

[@Jason-Samko]

Tacoma used a plastic oil filter housing forever as well. Very rare I hear of a problem with them. And if you ever strip it or anything they are dirt cheap.

[@dominica2765]

Thank you wanted the best vehicles I ever own and I own plenty

[@Jason-Samko]

Such an amazing truck

[@dominica2765]

On the floor mat, you push it through the floor and then you put the cap on the floor mat push the mat through the floor and then kept the top of it

[@Jason-Samko]

Correct. But I'd rather have the cap in the floor and another can in the mat. Why not just give us both caps? They should of

[@dominica2765]

God forbid they should have to spend another two cents🤣

[@Jason-Samko]

@@dominica2765 That my point too! Why not give us both. It cost nothing🤣

[@robg1413]

No dealership is giving $15K off on the 24s.

[@Jason-Samko]

@@robg1413 K.

[@371kenny]

I don't understand the attention in the windshield. Just raises rates to replace the windshield when it breaks.

[@Jason-Samko]

I forgot to mention that and wanted to! You're right. That is a bummer. Never had a problem with my old antenna and where it is located. Why did they have to over complicate something so simple!

[@371kenny]

@@Jason-Samko and if it was too long for your liking, aftermarket made small bullet anttenas that screwed right on.

[@fchrisb804]

How effective is the Gorilla Glass?

[@371kenny]

@@fchrisb804 I don't know how much better it is, but it still breaks more than a curved windshield

[@Jason-Samko]

@@fchrisb804 dont know.

[@MRIVERA4396]

Great videos…please elaborate on how we can get them 15-20k off the sticker? Live in NY and doesn’t seem like the dealers are discounting much

[@Jason-Samko]

Need to look at dealers outside of big cities, and spend 8 to 10 hours on yourube watching videos on current negotiation tactics and then start working dealers. It's not easy if it was everyone could do it. But it's very doable with some time energy and effort.

[@ryandoyle4344]

I used to find that information on Carsdirect or Truecar (don't contact dealer). Lately CarEdge has great information & tutorials also.

[@ryandoyle4344]

What's up with the rear view camera? It reminds me of The Hangover; What is that thing? Maybe it's just me, but its in the middle of the panel.

[@Jason-Samko]

@@ryandoyle4344 it works great.

[@davidk6668]

You forgot the gutless Pentastar engine. For a vehicle that weighs this much and can tow 7000 lbs and should have 35’s it should come stock with a 400 horsepower engine.

[@Jason-Samko]

@davidk6668 did a whole video the the "gutless" pentistar

[@joeetlinger3423]

The absence of a turbo, or a lower hp # on a spec sheet does not automatically make an engine "gutless." Have to look at the whole system, including transmission gearing, differential gearing, torque curve of the motor, etc... The gladiator power train is more than adequate in these terms. Also, there is no free lunch in life. That turbo boost comes at a cost. Does anyone really think the colorado power train is going to last with such a small turbo charged motor making so much power? I'd guess anything beyond 150k is not likely. Pentstars can go double that with proper maintenance.

[@joeetlinger3423]

A much better nitpick of the penstar would be the over use of plastics in the heating/cooling system, and all the well documented thermostat problems it has caused. I went through that on a BMW x3, and it was a nightmare. That motor also used way too much plastic. We're also currently having overheating problems on our 2012 town & country with 165k miles with the penstar.

[@davidk6668]

@@joeetlinger3423 I don’t think you are taking into account that many Gladiator and Wrangler owners load them up with camping gear, larger tires, and some pull some type of camper/trailer. Many have to regear the differentials just to get them to perform. Many run the engine at higher RPMs knowing that they will be trading it in at 80k miles when the engine has had it. I have a 2015 2 door JK and pull 1400 pound teardrop camper, 33 inch tires, 2.5 inch lift, 4.56 gears this would struggle going down the highway constantly shifting down to 4th gear just to maintain 60 mph. Finally stuck a supercharger in it and problem solved. I would like to upgrade to a newer Gladiator/Wrangler however don’t want to make the same mistake. Currently looking at Ford F150 with V8 as my next purchase. If Jeep puts the Hurricane engine in its next models might consider that.

[@davidk6668]

@@joeetlinger3423 yeah, when I had the turbocharger installed I had the piece of crap plastic oil cooler replaced with an aluminum one knowing that those plastic oil coolers were failing on the Pentastar.