$2300 Mistake.

[@chrism5859]

I have a brand new Kubota with the FR730V and it had 10W-30 in it when I bought it. Experienced a little oil loss in the heat (maybe 1/4 quart) so when it hit 8 hours I did the first oil change using 20W-50 and the engine seemed to run smoother with zero oil loss over the next 5 hours. It has to go back to the dealer for a squeaking drive shaft pulley and some kind of metallic ringing sound somewhere in the drivetrain but so far the engine is running smooth. I did oil changes at 60-70 hours on my older mower with a Kohler Courage 20 HP just because that's what I'll spend on the mower each summer/fall. That had a piston shaft break but when we pulled the engine apart the rest of the engine was squeaky clean inside with no wear evident anywhere except for cracked gaskets. Got 1500 hours out of the Kohler so that wasn't too bad given the reliability issues with that engine over 1K hours. We have guys around here running the Kawasaki for well over 2000 hours so for a homeowner like me who isn't doing commercial work I'm hoping to get a solid 15-20 years out of my mower. They are getting really expensive now!

[@WeSRT4]

Yep even Kawasaki has oil viscosity charts that recommend 20w50 when used in hot conditions.

[@philliphall5198]

When running it every day it’s best to run 20w50 I think and change oil every week or two 😊😊 New engines or higher now If you can afford it buy a new engine and hope you’ll be able to over haul 😊

[@zacjohnson8404]

10w40 is the best, according to their manual you can use it from -4 to 95degF. Over 95F don't use anything less than SAE40.

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

10w40 and sae 40 are both 40 weight. They’ll act the same at higher temps. If your running in higher temps than 40 weight specs you have to go to 50 weight. Don’t post advice if you don’t know what your talking about. The first number is cold weather number. How the oil flows at low temps. The second number is high temp number. 20w50 is the best all around oil if your not running in cold temps. Read a book pleb.

[@darrenupton5500]

20w50 v Twin Motorbike oil is what you need.

[@ericpigg2689]

That puff of white smoke makes me think you blew a head gasket. Pretty simple fix on these things. If it had really "died" you would have heard the internals let go, rod knocking, etc.

[@drcracinggarage8047]

I have a Gravley 52 in with a 23 HP kawasaki...Does it have a Safety Sensor that it wont start being low on oil...?

[@Slugg-O]

Thanks for the info. I have a freshly rebuilt Kohler CV730 that's due for it's first oil change. I'm in the south where the temperature is either hot or hotter. Nothing else.

[@trmeriwether1216]

Thanks for watching, that's a good engine! My father in law loves Kohlers.

[@SimonTekConley]

You're right, I've never thought about my oil type.

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

20w50. Covers high temps. Cut the manufacturer’s oil change interval in half.

[@meandthemrs7403]

I agree. I use straight 30W Castrol and change it every 50 hours. So far I have almost 1100 hours on my FS650 Kawasaki. Maybe, I should switch to 20w50 in the hotter part of the summer?

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

@@meandthemrs7403 I don’t know. I know many ppl running straight 30. I run a 15w50 cuz I’m in Florida and mow for about 3 hours per mow up and down hills.

[@meandthemrs7403]

@@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd Probably a good idea in that heat.

[@paulsummers1717]

don't forget the canister filter upgrade... they look boss

[@wheelsmcdealsace]

my kal engine is almost 30 yo now. still runs great

[@howitzer8946]

Good advice, I will take it (Illinois). Thank you.

[@trmeriwether1216]

Glad it was helpful! Add thanks for sub!

[@WBOS72]

Been running synthetic Motul 20w50 in my mower since new, never an issue. Now at 76 hours.

[@trmeriwether1216]

Yeah , I know it's going to last a long time. Motul synthetic is the best. Thanks for watching.

[@WBOS72]

@@trmeriwether1216 thanks for pisting the video.

[@JefferyAshmore]

I use shell rosella 10w30 never uses a drop between changes at 75 hours. Has 350 on briggs 25 hp professional.

[@philliphall5198]

20/50 is best in hot weather or 40W

[@tonyslawncare]

Great video

[@trmeriwether1216]

Thanks Tony!

[@900198619]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video! God bless you in Jesus' name :)

[@trmeriwether1216]

Glad it was helpful! God bless!

[@michaelspeakman8924]

The older manufacturer's recommended you to run a constant run on big engines at 30 weight motor oil now the new engines recommend a lighter oil like in your car like a 10W-30. I just put 5-30 in my 26 horsepower and it works great the faster rate lubricates on Startup to better

[@jason6325]

Man i run those engines on my gravelys. I've had engine failure and it's no joke!! I would like to suggest to you to upgrade to the commercial air filter box. You can get one for around$150.00.i run a lawn company. I mow aprox 10-12 yards a day 5 days a week. Since i switched filter box i have not had an problem. And yes the thicker oil is the way to go.

[@Dan-ez6dr]

That Husqvarna MZ 52 is $6,295 today and it comes with a Kohler 7000 engine. Definitely better mower options for that price than Husqvarna. You were smart to upgrade your mower to the Kawasaki FR730

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

It’s also a good idea to blow your air filter out at the end of each day and replace it when it’s time. Two things kill mowers. Heat and dust.

[@incognito5986]

Yes I always tamp my filter on the tire until no dirt/dust comes from the pleats. I change to a new one about every 2-3 oil changes depending on conditions.

[@wfemp_4730]

The manual for my FR600V explicitly says to not use compressed air to clean the paper filter element.

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

@@wfemp_4730 yeah air from a compressor could bend the elements fins. Using a regular blower is fine.

[@jcperine]

Run full synthetic is recommended by some experts

[@Charles-pk2rv]

You should have bought a hustler. I got an X152 inch. Love it 4 years old now.

[@Charles-pk2rv]

Don't know where you're from, but I'm down here in Daytona Florida with a lawn business. I use mine a lot.

[@Charles-pk2rv]

And I use nothing but Kawasaki oil.

[@jameswatson4110]

South of the mason Dixon line run 20-50

[@jaxturner7288]

Not only do you want 20w50 so you don’t push the valve guides out but also the oil should be designed specifically for use in air cooled four stroke engines. Mobile 1 makes an excellent one marketed towards air cooled motorcycles in 20w50 and of course Kawasaki k tech is the safest choice, it’s reasonably priced and what is actually recommend in the engines manual. I definitely wouldn’t use conventional automotive oil like that gtx. Sure It’s got enough zinc and that makes it fair better than some other automotive oils would but it still can’t handle the heat of our air cooled heads with solid valve trains grinding away at max engine RPM for 30 minutes+ straight like our mowers have to do. Passenger vehicle engines operate at maximum engine RPM at most 1 maybe 2% of their time in operation, mower engines are at the opposite extreme, normally running at their maximum rpm 95%+ of their time in operation and they don’t get the assistance of an additional liquid cooling system while they do it, they rely on the just the oil and the minimal amount of forced air cooling they have while they do it. With tolerances tighter for increased efficiency and emissions laws running them leaner and leaner/hotter and hotter, they need their oil to just about perform miracles in order to survive. Lubricating these modern engines adequately takes a significantly different blend of additives in their oil package and that is part of why we see an excessive failure rate with these expensive and technologically “advanced” power trains. They ended up more fragile and picky as a result of making them more efficient while also producing lower emissions. Having extensive experience with old tecumsehs and Briggs minimal maintenance requirements resulting in decades of reliable service, I’m not really sure if this new crap is worth it or not. I was irrationally excited to have a 730cc Kawasaki engine in a lawnmower because I had a 600cc Kawasaki in the 90s that was proven to be totally abuse/neglect proof and made a SCARY downright absurd amount of power for something two wheels. Needless to say this Kawasaki is definitely a disappointment. 👊

[@trmeriwether1216]

Thank you for going in detail. I did start using the motorcycle 20w50 because of cost and haven't had any problems. You are also right about the older engines, my first walk behind mower with a 15hp kawasaki was 16 yrs old when I got it. The the mower fell apart but the engine always ran and I was not good on maintenance back then.

[@mikezupancic2182]

Just stop. 😂 normal conventonal oil is perfectly fine and meets or exceeds what is needed. If youre in the south and run it hard then use a heavier weight oil. If you're in more temperate climates you use something like a 10w-30. This isn't rocket science, it's been in user manuals for 50+ years.

[@scottp2462]

@@mikezupancic2182I respectfully disagree. Kawasaki mower engines use flat tappets and require higher levels of zinc or ZDDP. Most automotive oils both conventional and synthetic max out around 800ppm of zinc and even less phosphorus. Kawasaki specifically recommends oil with zinc levels above 1000ppm. Air cooled heads run at higher temperatures than water cooled automotive heads and zinc bonds to metal at high heat. Reducing pressure and wear between the cam lobes and followers.

[@mikezupancic2182]

@@scottp2462 my apologies, I didn't know you were an engineer at Kawasaki. Oh wait, you're not. Kawasaki states in their manuals what oil to use, and it's automotive oil that meets API service standards that were placed 20 years back. Oil that meets today's standards far exceeds what is called for. So you can keep repeating the same nonsense that people did back in the 60s if you want, but you're incorrect.

[@scottp2462]

@@mikezupancic2182 Your apology is accepted because I am an engineer. Are you? Maybe you don’t know as much as you think you do. A simple internet search will confirm everything I stated previously. Everything you read in an owners manual is not the same as you will find in technical manuals. Many of the entries in a owners manual are guided by EPA regulations like using 5W20 motor oil in a modern Chrysler Hemi engine that eats cam shafts or lifetime transmission fluids when the transmission manufacturer recommends specific change intervals or not using aftermarket accessories. Believe what you want just be advised you are misinformed.

[@Ricky-eo5ym]

Thanks bro

[@alanshaw6161]

thanks for the warning. I'm about to pickup a Kubota with the similar Kawasaki engine and I want none of those problems

[@RK777PL]

HOW MANY HOURS ON IT

[@RK777PL]

I GOT IT 1200

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

That’s a good oil choice because of the zinc and weight. A better oil IN MY OPINION would be mobil1 15w50 because it’s full synthetic. On a brand new engine it’s best to run conventional for the first 100-200 hours to seat the rings. I live where it’s real hot so I run a 50 weight synthetic. Vr1 is good too but cost a lot more than Mobil1. Mobil1 on Amazon is 30 bucks for 5 quarts.

[@trmeriwether1216]

Thanks for watching, it's time for oil changes again and I will get the Mobile1 from Amazon. That's a great deal!

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

@@trmeriwether1216 every 50 hours my dude. Keep that engine running strong.

[@danteerskine7678]

​@@trmeriwether1216now you know that thicker oils are better. 10w30 is way too watery and not enough oily for my taste. Always go for mineral SAE 15w40, SAE 40 and 20w50 and do the oil change every 30 hrs, your engine will run forever Don't listen to these AMSOIL fanboys telling you how great this oil is when they're changing vehicles every 3 years themselves. For my part, this GTX classic is the best oil for small engines.

[@incognito5986]

@@danteerskine7678 ok GTX fanboy😉

[@greggreen6636]

Kawasaki recommends 20w-50

[@mikezupancic2182]

You werent using the wrong oil. Engines die for a lot of different reasons. If youre buying any modern oil thats a weight recommended in the service manual for your climate/temperature range, and topping off and changing at the correct intervals then thats all you can do. The rest is up to the engine mfg to not have defective parts. A landscaping company i trust told me that i could expect 100 hours per motor HP as long as i maintain it correctly.

[@patpeacock8150]

You need straight 30

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

No

[@danteerskine7678]

Any 30 oil is garbage.

[@patpeacock8150]

@@danteerskine7678 any deep engine lawn mower need 30 weight oil it has no detergent in it to make phome up .

[@ETXWheelsinMotion]

@@danteerskine7678why is that I have been using it for years but as of recently I did a oil change on a Briggs intek 21hp engine and a kholer 7000 series engine using super tech oil 10w-30 SAE cheap oil and after the both started smoking white smoke out of the exhaust and leaking oil out of the exhaust. They both are to the max fill mark but not overfilled. Any ideas what it may be. Maybe bad cheap oil?

[@bradjenkins932]

@@danteerskine7678 LMAO.

[@FindersKeepers88]

Good, Thx

[@BillChase-qm8ud]

I have a Kawasaki FR6991V never buy another mower with this motor. trouble from day 1. manual says SAE 40

[@aaronfodor5207]

Dont use high zinc oil it will kill the exhaust. Just put some lucas stabalizer or cylinder lube in it.

[@WildBill1984]

Why will it kill the exhaust, I’ve heard it’s bad for Catalytic converters but these don’t have one.

[@WildBill1984]

There’s some channels that test oils and additives and they actually say don’t use oil additives.

[@ironmike7339]

The factory Koehler oil has high zinc to protect the bearings. What the hell are you talking about. My Koehler has over 5,000 hours and just burns a little oil. Stop giving dumb advice !

[@asellers62]

Shore me you can talk for 3:55 without saying anything at all. LoL

[@trmeriwether1216]

Thanks for watching