How to Build a Ford 302 Small Block - Part 2: Removing the Rotating Assembly - EASY!

Today we continue with our Ford 302 build sponsored by ‪@SummitRacing‬ by removing the timing cover, harmonic damper, pistons, crankshaft, and camshaft. We are getting this block ready to send off to the machine shop so we can get it back and start the rebuilding process. Also, we changed plans a little bit and decided to build this thing into a 341 cubic inch stroker! So keep that in mind when we get this bad boy back. I will go over those differences once we get it back and start assembling it. Thanks so much for watching!
If you have any questions please leave them down below and I will do my best to get to them.
Engine Crane: www.summitracing.com/parts/su...
Engine Stand: www.summitracing.com/parts/su...
Bolts to Mount Engine on Stand: amzn.to/2RVsYG5
If you have a car question ask it completely free at www.2carpros.com/questions/new
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions

[@robertedwards8578]

I have enjoyed your tutorial. For one you speak clear and professionally. You don't curse is a plus for me. Keep being classy.

[@2carpros]

I appreciate that! Thank you, I will! :)

[@jamessalerno4234]

Gonna follow this series closely...you've inspired me to rebuild my old LM7 and restore my old truck instead buying new. I've also got eyes on a 91 fox body I want to turn into a 347 stroker like this. Awesome videos and really appreciate the effort. I subscribed after watching the first LM7 video realizing the quality and usefulness.

[@2carpros]

Hey thanks for subscribing and watching!

[@BradM766]

Something to note on the stock piston rods and caps, they are stamped with numbers for what piston they go in. When reinstalling, the numbers go to the outside, furthest away from the center of the block.

[@davethewelder1]

glad I just started watching. have 302. been looking to build 347 for a 1986 bronco 2.

[@2carpros]

Nice! That would be amazing! Thanks for watching!

[@xonsightx]

Great info man. I will be using this playlist to rebuild my 302.

[@2carpros]

Right on! Thanks for watching!

[@sevans66]

Nice work. Can't wait to see it back. Have a great memorial weekend and relax.

[@2carpros]

Thanks, you too!

[@sean5comet]

Subscribed, just finished your 5.3 build series and started this one.

[@2carpros]

Great to have you! Thanks for watching!

[@short.kingluci]

Thanks for the video I have a 66 Mustang with a 1970 boss 302 swapped on it

[@2carpros]

Friggin sweet! Thanks for watching!

[@juanzuniga6387]

Yo lo desarmo en chinga!! El pedo es armarlo de nuevo!!

[@albertgaspar627]

I agree with your machine shop, high compression and a mild cam really builds cylinder pressure and makes detonation easy to happen. Plus, the pop up/domed pistons needed to go beyond 10:1 Cr with most heads can block airflow into a cylinder. running aluminum heads will let you get away with another point of compression over pump gas, but you only gain 14% more power for each point. It's not worth what you're going to pay for premium gas over the life of the engine and risk detonation unless you're racing for every last second. you can also spike the oil filter with an old screwdriver and there are tools to cut it open to inspect the fibres to see if there's bearing material etc. Once I even wrapped an old fan belt around a filter like a garotte to tighten it on the side of the highway, so it might work in the other direction. consider getting a hardened oil pump shaft, Windsors are known for snapping the OEM one. before you pull the crank, if you're going to reuse it because this is just a bearing and ring swap rebuild, measure the thrust--if it's wrong, you know you're going to have to do some more work.

[@kylepawelczyk163]

All I head in this video is “hold the ginger from the back” 😂

[@2carpros]

Wait a second. I have redish hair. O.o

[@kylepawelczyk163]

@@2carproslol sorry, love the series! I have a 86 f150 and plan to build the motor within the next few years, this video helped me out a lot! Thanks for the tips!

[@Dave-ru3tt]

Excellent video- thank you 😉

[@2carpros]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!

[@medhatshow4582]

You very clear and happy Thank you

[@2carpros]

You’re welcome 😊

[@GearheadRob319]

with that slop in the timing chain and gears, id bet thats why the motor had bent valves.

[@2carpros]

Could be!

[@bryanatkins8016]

I love this series. I've never rebuilt and engine but would love to do this. I have 2 vehicles with this engine. I would do this with my 96 F150. But I also have a 1973 Mercury comet GT (Ford Maverick). Any suggested changes for this vehicle?

[@2carpros]

This engine build would go great in either of those. Thanks for watching!

[@j_j_h221]

this guy is made to do videos.

[@VIP854]

So im wanting to see at least 400hp. I'm already going bigger valves and a bigger cam. Do I really need to change my stock bottom end?

[@Jthomas348]

Some misinformation on the lifter section of the video there is most definitely sleeves for lifter bores if the damage is bad enough i just had an aluminum 5.3 that had lifter failure and scratched up the bore had it honed by a machine shop and looked brand new

[@eddievantailn2882]

CJ Pony parts sells top end kits for 289's. The kit seems to have everything minus the rockers. If you have a reasonably good running engine is this a good way to go?

[@justinslife8898]

Is there any other way to be "persuasive" using metal to metal? 🤔 For example, useing a large flat head screw driver to tap/knock out/break free stuck/seized parts??? Like do they make or could some sort of heavy wooden punches be used? That way, there's no way of gouging block surfaces or bearing surfaces?? Any input or suggestions are appreciated 👍🏻

[@protoss4444]

When is part 3? Enjoyed part 1 and part 2

[@2carpros]

Still waiting on the engine coming back from the machine shop. Hopefully it will be back soon then I can make the videos. Thanks for watching!

[@outsidethelines2162]

Watching with my coffee and my dog 🐕

[@2carpros]

Good combo! Thanks for watching!

[@stillhere9728]

Completely unrelated question; what is a better lifter, hydraulic flat tap it or a hydraulic roller?

[@2carpros]

Hydraulic lifter is "better" because of less rolling resistance and longevity. Thanks for watching!

[@jesseduke694]

To answere your question, a hydrolic roller lifter is generally better design than the flat tappet. It has much less friction & the roller design opens up a hole new range ramp rate possibilities in the profile of the camshaft. The draw back is expense & weight. The lifters are very expensive & require upgraded valve train parts that also cost more $$$. But the life & performance of the cam & valve train is much better than flat tappet. Usually!!!???

[@markwoten6679]

Are you using a standard socket on an impact gun?

[@2carpros]

Yep. I know. Thank you for watching!

[@johnelliott7375]

No drift punches 😔?

[@2carpros]

Dont have any that are long enough. Thanks for watching!

[@danielpadgett2831]

Do you know how many miles this engine had?

[@2carpros]

120k I think but I can't remember off hand. Thanks for watching!

[@danielpadgett2831]

@@2carpros I got a 95 f150 with the 302 it's got 335,000 miles on it still going strong

[@donnysouthwell8104]

Im building a street 302 for a ford ranger, going to be putting a cam in it, aluminum intake and heads with a 4 barrel, going with aluminum to lighten the front end because of the heavier engine im putting in

[@2carpros]

Nice! Sounds awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@markwoten6679]

How much $ to have your machine shop do the block and ect?

[@2carpros]

I think it was like 1600 bucks but that was a high end racing shop. Thanks for watching!

[@ramseykravec3639]

Side note, why is it that he used an impact and didn't break a single bolt but as soon as I think about it I break one....

[@2carpros]

I have never had a problem, maybe your impact wrench is too strong?

[@aaronmansur6973]

If you're a big freakin dude you can just throw the block in the truck yourself, no hoist required. A bare 302 block is only like 140 pounds max

[@2carpros]

True. But I can't assume that about everyone watching. Thanks for watching!

[@redsmerf]

If the oil filter wrench or the channel locks can't grip... Stab it with a screwdriver.

[@2carpros]

I don't like doing that just because if that doesn't work now you have a razor sharp metal covered in oil. Thanks for watching!

[@madrabbit9007]

Two things: 1. I noticed that you flipped the engine to remove the oil pan. On the last two engines you kept it upright to so you could inspect for any junk or broken bits in the pan. Why not on this one? 2: When you paint it, gotta be Ford Blue, don't do another black engine please.

[@2carpros]

Nah I always flip over the engine to take the pan off. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKeliqumh6hnbJY I'll keep the paint color under my cap for now. But I can promise it won't be a 3rd black engine LOL Thanks so much for watching!

[@JustdoitYwait]

Completely lost me when you switched to 347 stroker 😫

[@2carpros]

Why? It's exactly the same going together and coming apart. Thanks for watching!

[@franky5039]

Step 1: put on your latex gloves...

[@2carpros]

They are nitrile. Thanks for watching!

[@repr26]

You. Talk. Too. Much.

[@2carpros]

The talking is important. I'd rather mention something and maybe help someone than remain silent and help no one. Thanks for watching!

[@repr26]

@@2carpros I understand that when talking about process. But, when you become excessively repetitive. Or stray from the process, or the topic all together it becomes monotonous. The only thing worse than a person skipping large parts of your video to try and "get to rhe point", is when they stop watching altogether. I really am trying to be helpful. You need to be more concise, and stick to issues relevant to the video topic.

[@prevost8686]

@@repr26 Link to your channel please.

[@trey854]

The rods are forged already from factory!!

[@2carpros]

No, they are cast. Thanks for watching!