$3 fix for microwave that lights up but no heat, buzzing or spinning

[@vincentesmaraschino8029]

Everyone should be aware of the reason the switch failed. I noticed at the end of your video (when you opened the door to remove the coffee cup) it appeared that you did not first press "off", but instead pressed the lever to open the door. What happens in this case is that the contacts of the switches draw an arc as they open. Over time, by using the door opening lever (without first pressing "off") the continued arcing causes the contacts to pit and burn. (This is especially bad for the magnetron/klystron door switch, as it uses the most current.) Since no manufacturer has seen fit to solve this problem, I recommend that users "re-train" themselves. Put a sticky note on the microwave oven near the keypad which says "press off first when opening" as a reminder. (I did this for my wife and it worked.)

[@AverageGuy513]

Wondered all these years spent $100 every year to replace exact same bottom switch. All these years I was thinking it’s because of cheap switched and not the oem switch. Thanks a lot for explaining.

[@appliancedude63]

This is very true. I've been an appliance tech for 6 years and that's the exact reason those switches fail.

[@ShigekiHizashi]

We just got a brand new Hamilton Beach microwave from a lady who was moving and the new home already had one, one that was even nicer than the one she just bought. She sold it to us for 20$ but it's doing exactly as described I this video. Lights, timer, but no buzzing turning or heating. Took me a few hours to find anything even remotely the same as what my issue was til I found this video! And it fits the problem exactly! Thank you so much for posting this!

[@bleachie]

My microwave stopped heating, and even with "Black Friday" discounts it costs a lot to replace. After watching your video, I found that I had the same problem. Thanks for the walk through and saving me a ton of cash!

[@speakingnvowels]

My Samsung Microwave stop working the week after the warranty expired. They wanted to charge $90 for someone to come look at it plus the cost of repair and I thought that was ridiculous. So I put off fixing it for over a year while we use this cheap $30 Walmart microwave. I watch your video and see how easy the fix is and I take the 16A switch out of the Walmart microwave and put it in my $300 Samsung and after a year plus, ITS ALIIIIIVE!

[@vincentesmaraschino8029]

It is very helpful to know that the top switch controls less current (lights & display) than the bottom switch (magnetron, turntable, & fan). I noticed that when you tested the repair, it appeared that you pushed the "door open" lever. One of the things that causes the switch to fail is pressing door open while the magnetron is operating. An arc is drawn between the contacts of the switch which causes heating, pitting, and burning of these contacts. I'm glad you mentioned this at the end of the video.

[@SailingSarah]

So I typed my symptoms into a Google search bar and this video popped up I started reading the comments and read yours and went straight to my microwave and looked at the bottom switch and lo and behold it's all beat up in there! Good call! Thank you Jesus

[@vanderkb1]

TORX T20H(tamper resistant) for anyone looking. Great video, bought switch off amazon and replaced the main(bottom switch only). I would recommend not taking off the plastic housing that holds the switches, I was able to use needlenose pliers to push the tab and slide the switch out to replace. For my Samsung i would have had to break a few tabs and potentially the door button rod to get the whole piece out. Thanks again for sharing!!! I knew that it was probably the bottom one because a few times after it first stopped working I could lightly depress the door button and it would start working. I also had some dark residue around the top red/black wiring connection inside the sleeve(which was another indicator of why it stopped.

[@Scott-rc2jn]

Two years ago right after I moved into my house, my microwave died. It took the repairman 2 weeks and over $200 to troubleshoot/fix what turned out to be a broken door latch switch (covered by warranty). It just died again. With this video, I fixed it the next day for $8. Awesome video!

[@RedshiftCindy]

Followed your clear and precise instructions, and wow! My microwave works, and the part was as you said, we paid 2.33 for it with tax, and also replaced the connectors, very inexpensive at auto supply source, and now we don't need to purchase a new microwave! Very nice!

[@miteeman]

Glad to hear it worked for you!

[@mattnorton3836]

Thank you for your video. Saved me $500 dollars on a new microwave. I ordered 2 switches off Amazon and had them switched in 5 minutes

[@youcanfoolmeonce]

It was very helpful! That exact switch was open all the time like yours on my GE SS "Browning", bought a replacement switch at Fry's for $2.50 and it worked! Thanks for the video! It probably saved me $150!

[@markrabinowitz7070]

Thanks for sharing! I came across an LG microwave in the trash that had this exact same problem. Fortunately, I didn't have to look very for or wait very long for a replacement switch--not long afterwards, I found another microwave in the trash that had other problems, but at least its door switches were good, so today, I took one of those switches out and put it in the LG! It feels so good to have a fully functional microwave without spending even one thin dime!

[@crosssouth6553]

your video is very clear and helpful, as you didn't show the faulty parts straightaway, but the symptoms before start locating the faulty parts, which makes a lot more sense than other videos! you also mention the symptoms in the title! this makes it much easier for people to search and match their problem. thank you, I fixed my microwave after watching the video.

[@ericsturgill6365]

Excellent video, very thorough. Thanks for taking the time to show a relatively easy fix. Same issue occurred on my Viking microwave. I went ahead and replaced all 4 switches as my microwave is about 10 years old. Saved me lots of $$!!!!

[@johnrossignol4707]

Correct, the cloth hook on my pot holder was hanging down the inside of the door, I couldn't see it because of poor light there. I read your response and you were right. Thanks, you saved me over $100. for a new one,

[@waynekeenan6129]

The microwave video was very clear, concise and extremely helpful. I have a different microwave brand, but the resistance test on the door switches identified a faulty door switch. Thanks for a great video.

[@BloominFun]

Thank you for your video. Your instructions were very easy to follow and we were able to replace all three of the switches for less than $30. Taking pictures as we were tearing it apart definitely helped when we put it back together one week later (we had to wait for switches to be delivered). Works perfectly... I'll never slam a microwave oven door again!

[@sweetmemories4448]

Excellent video - learned a lot. You received lot of complements from so many who followed your details troubleshooting techniques and at the same time ventured to fix themselves. What a great satisfaction after fixing and not throwing it away. Your video is very interesting the way you explained it. Congratulations - great instructor!!!

[@Tonysal123]

Thx for posting the video, found a faulty interlock micro switch (internal spring that keeps the switch tab up, appears to have broken). Replaced, all good now & saved the cost of a new unit as well as keeping the unit out of a land fill. 👍🙂

[@mikemedeiros]

You had the correct torx security bit in that kit. I have the same set. The torx bit with the hole in it which you have is the correct one.

[@gregwesdorf1881]

Video was great. My capacitor had already bled out after 24 hrs. Ohmed out the switches and the top one was open. Found a replacement at Dey Appliance for $5.53. Very cheap fix.Thanks

[@patrickkirchner2416]

All three of my door latches tested fine with a voltmeter but I just knew one of them had to be the issue. My LG LMV1813ST would take a cook time, count down, the light would go on but the turntable didn't turn and it didn't heat the food. After seeing your comment, I ordered the latch (part 1325771 at RepairClinic.com) was only $3.34 and shipping was $6. It was either going to be the top or the bottom switch and I even guessed it was the top sensor. You saved us $300+ and I feel happy not to have contributed to planned obsolescence. - Credit goes to C S39 in this page where he mentioned that parts might pass a voltmeter test but fail when power is passed through them.

[@fredericguerin3132]

Same issue here. All switches were testing just fine with a voltmeter. But after reading your comment, I decided to repair one of them anyway (the top one), and that was it. Our microwave is working again. Thank you!

[@dwightamato5672]

Best video on KZbin! I was about to throw another $900 on a new built in microwave until I found this video. Bought a new switch from Amazon for $4, replaced it tonight, working perfectly again. Thank you!

[@michaelbyrne4087]

way to go!! I just picked up a microwave off the street at 10 pm and one of the three switches stayed in the closed position. so i took it out and opened it up. I found the small leaf spring inside of the switch slipped out of position. I bent it to give it a bit more tension and put it all back together and now at 11 pm I have a Samsung ME16H702SES for 60 minutes of my time ! thank you for the video. it gave me enough to start my troubleshooting!

[@waynemiller8459]

My Viking microwave had the same symptoms and I was did not want to spend over $1,000 to replace it. After watching this I decided to open it and it was almost exactly the same. I tried testing the switches but they were difficult to get to without taking everything apart so I just ordered three direct replacement new ones at about $7 each. I did manage to break the plastic piece that the handle pushes to open the door but that was only $3 on eBay. When I did the install I was surprised to find that there were two of the same switch on the lower latch so I ended up only replacing three of the four in there - you could not see it at all from looking in at the side. With under two hours of time and $27 in parts the microwave is back up and running. Thank you for posting this video. I can now resell the $20 Craigslist microwave that I had to purchase while waiting for the switches to arrive.

[@steeld5184]

VERY VERY helpful! was going to throw my microwave away until i found your video! the lower door sensor was defective and it only cost $6 to replace it! Thank you!

[@vincentgonzales8917]

Just replaced the switch on my 2008 Kenmore Elite and it is up and running. Thanks your great.

[@rezamostofi5715]

Thanks for the great help, mine was a Viking microwave with the same exact problem and the same exact switches. I bought the switches from fry's store.

[@davidcossette9766]

Thank you! This was exactly the problem I had. Easy fix. Microwave saved, good to go.

[@new-knowledge8040]

I fixed my oven after coming back from the beer store with beer in my folding cart, along with a dud microwave oven that I found at the curb when I was half way home. This dud oven had working parts that were compatible with the dead parts in my microwave oven. That included a door switch, an AC fuse, and a thermal fuse. I also held onto several other working parts from the dud oven for any possible future break downs in mine. Total repair cost, $0.00.

[@linda6163]

I used this video not my style of microwave have a GE JVM3160DF2WW 2015 Manu . Microwave would light up and make noise but would not run. I did not pull my microwave out. I did have to remove vent cover and touchpad. I removed both bottom switches one was NC and other was NO I went to local part store Repair Clinic and they did not have the parts in stock and wanted 22 for one and 66 for the other available in a week or so. Went on amazon and ordered them for $9 for both and rec'd them in 2 days. Installed them both and microwave is now working. Thanks for making this video.

[@noshinkhan8773]

thank you! thank you! thank you ! your video was very helpful. My microwave was not making the humming warming up sound and the table was not turning switched the third piece all the way in the bottom and it worked perfectly. Only costed me $4.60. Thank you once again for your help!

[@CHRISTChrysalisInManhaim]

Another woman! How? Where? 😭 I need help & tools!

[@rogerfollowell7779]

I repaired our Microwave by following this video. Had an door switch working part of the time.

[@AeroElectro]

MITEEman At 3:22 you point to the middle switch and say it controls the turntable and magnetron. But then you say we will replace the 3rd (bottom) switch. Can you explain? Someone else mentioned that the middle switch is monitor switch and is NC. You also briefly mentioned the NC. Can you explain the logic?

[@miteeman]

Now that Amazon has them 2/$8 on Prime you should just replace both the top & bottom Normally Open switches. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHQRMW7

[@Krb68691]

Thanks for this video! I have a very expensive microwave that broke maybe a year ago and at the time we paid ~450 for a repair man to come and replace just the capacitor in it. Having studied EE, I thought what the hell, I could've done that myself. Here I am now, the microwave breaks again! I decided to open it up but I saw this video first before testing parts and sure enough, one of the door switches has black, burned up leads. You just helped me save quite a bit

[@4u25out]

I got a LG model, got the switches from Amazon, came in pack of 2..for $6..your video help me little me little bit...Thanks for sharing.

[@rayklein3573]

Wow! So simple to fix and $8.30 for part....took less than an hour.......thanks!

[@miteeman]

I have an update - 2 1/2 years after I made this video, the second original door switch failed in the exact same manner. This is not the one I bought, but the one that I swapped in from above. So if this is your failure I would recommend you replace them both. Now I see you can buy the exact part for about $5 on Amazon or Ebay. Here's the part number: D3V-16G-3C25. Don't accept anything else unless you're sure that it has the same dimensions, 16A rating, Normally Open contacts. There are a lot of switches with similar numbers that are either Normally Closed or have a lower rating than 16A.

[@beauahmir4287]

instablaster...

[@tanman9]

Thanks for your video! After watching your video I repaired myself. In my case top switch was bad. U saved me the couple of hundred dollars.

[@rominhawk3949]

Thanks, Very good video and presentation; I know this is a few years now, but, in case others benefit from this; the middle switch is a monitor switch that is normally closed, and when the door is shut, the other two switches close, and the monitor NC switch opens. I't a design to guarantee that no power will get to the transformer and Magnatron assembly if the door is open.

[@UberTuber]

spending $150 on a microwave > student loan debt

[@mangattoronto78]

It worked for me. I don't had new switch so I decided to use old same switch. Just open it, clean it with sandpaper. Put it back. Waoo it works. Thanks it saved my money.

[@miteeman]

Glad to hear that worked for you, but those switches have a definite lifespan, and those switches aren't designed to be opened so it may pop open unexpectedly. If the switch is handling 120V any future failure could remotely cause an electrical short or fire. I would recommend you order a new switch and replace it. The $5 spent is good insurance. As you can see my my post a few months ago, both switches ended up failing so I'd buy replacements for both.

[@mangattoronto78]

MITEEman thanks

[@captainawesome9669]

Well my brand new microwave was doing exactly this. So Instead of returning it this video gave me The idea to shut it a little harder loosen those door switches. Works now

[@miteeman]

Glad that helped but sounds like you may need to replace them soon.

[@comm2531]

It Iooks like you don't know about removing the touch pad to give you better access to the switch housing bracket. You remove one screw on the top of the touch pad from the inside and slide pad up and pull out. This makes door locking mechanism which is attached to the microwave touchpad easier to free itself from switch bracket inside unit. Run less risk of damaging things.

[@montydaniels1054]

@MITEEman. Hi, not sure why I got that below so I had to do another comment. Hoping you reply. On our GE, it's loud when it's powered on but no heat so I'm thinking it's a bad Diode. At any rate, one thing this one does every once& a while is the turntable won't work, then all of a sudden it'll start working again. Wondering if that switch can be partially the problem.... Great video BTW, thanks for posting it.... M.D. ................

[@MichaelBrown-pp2wl]

Have GE Profile Convection/Microwave. Had same symptoms where it would not turn and heat. Bottom switch was the issue. The hardest par is getting the switches OUT!. I had to remove the circuit board (control panel) to get the latch out of the way. Then I could take the switch assembly out. Then the pegs holding the switch in the assembly over time become brittle so when I removed the switch it broke. Ordered a new switch assembly to hold the switches and then replaced the switches (I just did all since I had the thing apart). This is not for the faint of heart but I could not get to the switches without it. Take a lot of pictures of the wiring before you take everything apart. This saved me. I assume this saved me 200-300 bucks. Just getting to the switched on a built-in is a hour's worth of work because you have to disassemble the entire frame that holds the microwave in place. Thanks to amazon all parts were delivered next day and this didn't drag out over weeks.....

[@Rabid_Monkey]

Thank you for your help. What could have been a $400 replacement became a $12 fix.

[@nickb1875]

Got you. It makes a lot of sense in that replacements last longer. I've not yet had any failed ones though. And I don't do second time cleaning on them.

[@nonelost1]

4:53… Great video!…I notice there are two amperage readings, on smaller font above it says 16A. But in a larger font below it says 0.1A. What is the difference?

[@miteeman]

The top line is for AC - 16A for 120/250V AC. The bottom line is for DC - .1A at 125V DC. The electricity coming out of the wall socket is AC so that's the important rating.

[@cs3943]

Great Video! In my previous life I was a Technician. I've found some switches to test good out of circuit but when power is applied would open up...driving you crazy. I have the exact same problem with my GE. Thanks for the video.

[@patrickkirchner2416]

C S39 you are a genius! All three of my door latches tested fine with a voltmeter but I just knew one of them had to be the issue. My LG LMV1813ST would take a cook time, count down, the light would go on but the turntable didn't turn and it didn't heat the food. After seeing your comment, I ordered the latch (part 1325771 at RepairClinic.com) was only $3.34 and shipping was $6. It was either going to be the top or the bottom switch and I even guessed it was the top sensor. You saved us $300+ and I feel happy not to have contributed to planned obsolescence.

[@RajnishBhogal]

Thanks from India, you saved the day for me :) cheers.

[@winaustria2392]

This helped alot. I had a GE over the range micro. And the lights would come on without the turning and buzzing. Did the discharge, and switched the 2 fuses with each other. It worked. Big thank you for the video.

[@alb12345672]

Very common issue. On mine the plastic bracket went out of alignment, and I had to put in a tiny plastic shim to get it to work. I usually replace ALL 3 and keep a spare. They also can work intermittently - sometimes the microwave will work, sometimes not. You have to wiggle the door to determine that. The terminals where the wires connect sometimes also go bad. You have to wiggle the wires to determine that. There is even a combination of bad switches that could make the microwave run even if the door is open! I believe mine kept running when I opened the door and blew a fuse a second later! The switches are also shared across all brands. There is one normally open and two normally closed (or reverse)

[@TheJman22195]

Thank you! This video just saved me $450

[@kklein59]

Thank you so much! We had the same issue and the easy repair saved us a lot of money!!

[@DanRootUSA]

Thank you!!! We are back up and running in no time thanks to this video.

[@marcobissi6916]

My Microwave keep buzing like if the door was open and control pad is not working. Do I have to change all 3 switches? I changed 2 from one side already and still not working. Model is kmbc 140h SS0

[@mariethatcher9425]

I'm trying to do this fix on my 15-year-old Samsung and it has an ancient lower switch that doesn't look anything like the switches I'm finding for sale--it says 0.3A and 24V. Can I swap in a 16A 250V switch without hurting anything?

[@GeorgeHuMIT]

Hard to say without knowing more but using a higher rated switch is good as long as it's the same switch. If it doesn't look like the replacement it is likely not the same. Check if it has some writing on it and google it. It could be the wrong Normally Open / Normally Closed - sometimes they have diagrams on it to show you.

[@Dave-ch6qp]

mine is bosch microwave which has 3 door switch, and i replaced the interlock switch which was bad based on video posted by Apache Ranch for microwave. and my microwave was on, and can hear the humming sound, but no heating, and turntbale was not spinning. then i watched this video, and found out that it has to do with door switch which i just replace. Some video talks about turntable motor might be bad, or the diode might have gone bad. There are different ways to troubleshoot this. I went ahead, and open the door switch, and i found out my wiring connection was swapped which i compared with the picture I took before dismouting. Once I fix the wire connection, my microwave started heating

[@miteeman]

I'm glad my video helped you!

[@RobHerrera]

Have the same exact symptoms so checked the switches and one was bad, but it was the top switch. Replaced the switch and the symptoms remain the same. Any ideas? Magnetron? Thermal fuse? Help

[@mahabubhassan1905]

I was able to open the switch cover, the tensioner was misplaced. Put it back in the right position and started clicking. It worked.... Almost made an order on Amazon

[@miteeman]

Good job on getting it working, but you should really replace the switch for a few bucks. Those switches get a lot of abuse and have full line voltage going through them - they will fail sooner or later and any problem makes it likely it will fail completely later. If your repair fails you may find yourself being microwaved upon opening the door and the switch doesn't cutoff the power.

[@mahabubhassan1905]

@@miteeman i already placed order for 3 switches, 2 NO & 1 NC. Happy that, got ot running till then 😀

[@JackJensenTrader]

Could you clarify, were you pointing at the correct one when you observed it being defective (per the schematics), (kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXTXeImJmKtjqbc)? You're pointing to the one above the bottom one, saying bottom one (maybe meaning lower one, as opposed to the top?), but then you said you needed to replace the bottom one, the one below where you were pointing. I THINK you're saying that the second from the bottom is the one that controls the magnetron and turntable, but since it's connected (interlocked) to the lowest bottom one - that is triggered when the door is opened/closed - it causes the second from the bottom to not work. Is that right? So this problem could have involved either of the lower two, and with testing the switches' continuity you found that it was the bottom one that was bad. I just finished replacing my bottom one - fuse would blow upon closing door, and it starting. Others tested good. But after doing so - plugged it in and opened/closed door and started it, without blowing the fuse - so I figured it was all good. Then re-installed and it turns out it's not heating, or turntable rotating. Maybe when reinstalling I broke it? I definitely had the correct kind (Normally Open/Closed). Thanks, great video.

[@cruzcruz5079]

Mine does not light up and doesn't heat. It sounds as if it's running. When I open the door, the plate spins. What can it be?

[@Smittyschannel]

lol your harbor frieght kit shows the exact security star bits needed, & you used something else instead

[@wadeborts]

Thanks for the tips. Lower microswitch was my issue as well. $5 fix!!!

[@GeorgeHuMIT]

Thanks for taking the time!

[@BuffaloEskate]

Could you rig the switch by crossing wires?

[@miteeman]

That would be very hazardous. You will almost certainly open the door accidentally exposing yourself to microwaves.

[@BuffaloEskate]

@@miteeman I am aware of the hazards and would only be used a few times and unplugged before and after me running it! I am just curious if it would be possible? I would assume it would be possible.. but not 100%.. and I started "rigging" electronics ever since my step father ripped the chord out of the back of my old tube style tv.. and I only made it about 2 days with no tv before i took the back of the tv off.. figured out how to discharge any stored electricity.. and cut the chord off of my extra lamp to wire it to the tv!! 📺 😆

[@patrickhanus]

Works like a charm. Thanks man!

[@garylgao]

My 1.5 years old LG LCRT2010BD, same problem, which parts do I need? Thanks!

[@JimMcLaren1950]

The middle micro switch, (NC COM ) when I test it with my Multimeter I get a reading when door is closed and open. Do I have a bad micro switch? What does the middle micro switch control? Replaced the micro switch it does the same thing When I remove the wire from the com terminal on the switch the meter shows OL wire on shows reading closed and open .Thanks in advance.

[@ThePatriotsBrother]

Jim, If your getting a closed & open reading on the switch ITSELF, its probably good, When you use the DOOR and test it in place and it doesn't give you a reading of open and closed its probably because the DOOR latch isn't making contact with the switch button.

[@JimMcLaren1950]

Thanks for the reply, the door switch was ok , it turns out it was the magnetron.

[@jeffpaul8260]

My microwave light comes on but nothing on the display at all. I replaced the 20 amp fuse but still nothing but the inner light comes on. any suggestions?

[@wssr3293]

On mine the inside light is not working either plus all the symptoms here. Would the same fix work for me too?

[@miteeman]

Not likely. If the light doesn't go on then the failure path is different.

[@wssr3293]

@@miteeman any likely culprits?

[@JJ2000k]

Nice video thanks. What if the "connector bridge" breaks when pulling wire off terminal or the button? Sorry I don't know the actual name?

[@yesillsayit]

Question - are the top and bottom door switch control parts the same? If not, (because schematics are SO difficult to read), do you have a part number. Getting ready to tackle this project, but want to replace both parts, (after I read your comment about 2 years later the other door latch failing). Thanks for this video.. Amazing.

[@joycejester7578]

What's the name of switch, is it normally open or closed?

[@ranmangolf]

Thanks for the video. My microwave had the same symptoms; and with the assistance of your video, I was able to fix my Wolf microwave. I found it interesting that some of the same components (Sharp) in your Frigidaire microwave are the same ones in mine. Even the technology and layout looks exactly the same. It makes you wonder if there is any real quality difference between the brands. When reinserting the terminals, I wasn't sure which end was up or down. Hopefully, it doesn't matter. Your thoughts?

[@bjacker7019]

why is it a 2 way switch?

[@bpestcontrol1926]

I know this conversation is dated, but was hoping for instruction the safest way to bleed off high voltage capacitor and safety check before proceeding attempt to repair. Thanks

[@danoo1983]

What tool do you use to take wires off the switch? Takes a lot of power to remove?

[@miteeman]

Just pliers. Needle nose probably work best for small areas but anything that can get in there will work.

[@sal8349]

Thank you for the tutorial. Very well explained.

[@joangrave7602]

I have the same problem with a GE Model JVM1190BVM. Tested all three door switches and found continuity on each one. So it doesn't seem to be simply a switch problem. This is a also a convection oven, which also is not working. What else could it be? Power supply? Any advice would be appreciated.

[@erikk6604]

One thing was unclear: are we supposed to somehow discharge all capacitors? What is the safe way to do that?

[@miteeman]

The safest thing is to wait overnight. If in a hurry use two long screwdrivers and touching each of the two posts cross the shafts.

[@bjacker7019]

any way to eliminate switch!?

[@richardanderson7075]

I have the same machine, what is the model number?

[@gregseegers3961]

I'm trying to find video on replacing the touchpad on that exact model (GE JE2160SF03) it does not have the panel above the door to remove like all the videos I've found. Can you help?

[@WalterEKlaus]

Thank you! I'm 99% certain that this is what's wrong with my microwave. I already ordered the part on Amazon. I have the exact same microwave-over-oven combo that's in the video. Were you able to remove just the microwave without taking the entire oven out of the wall? I took off the trim around the microwave and it appears to be attached to a bracket on the oven with 4 screws on the bottom, but I don't think they are possible to get to without the whole unit coming out. Also, is the microwave connected to power separate from the oven, or are they tied together electrically? I see a black cable when I shine my flashlight back there, along with the metal conduit, but I only have one breaker for "Microwave and Oven Stack" - I guess I'll figure this one out soon enough myself but it will definitely be easier to remove if they're separate!

[@miteeman]

No need to remove the regular oven. The microwave typically sits on its own shelf and the trim kit just keeps it pretty. Typically the microwave is not attached to the "bracket" but just rests on it perhaps with some indents for the feet. Try lifting it up and sliding / twisting it out. The microwave should have a regular power cord that plugs into an outlet behind it. Usually the conduit is for the regular oven.

[@Bushgator]

I have a Samsung model # smh17135s I checked the switches and they all check out fine with the multi meter fine. so what do I check next? it runs but doesn't heat anything

[@skillerftwerr]

This is what i needed, thanks!

[@frankmontez6853]

Does anyone think a cut wire to the plug the microwave is plugged in will fry it ? Fuse is good

[@dalilaturki7801]

I have the same one but the bottom start don't work

[@titodejesus6238]

Excellent video and niceinformation. I thought I was watching a Marvel movie reading the info before the end credits..lol

[@12vgs8606]

Shouldn't that microswitch control a relay? Why would it need to pass 16Amp through it?

[@miteeman]

12vgs8606 When the computer is controlling the microwave, yes, a relay is doing all the work. These door switches, however, are built as a safeguard. They will interrupt the flow of electricity manually by breaking the circuit with the full flow of electricity going through them. When I disassembled the broken switch the contacts had severe pitting and the plastic supporting the contacts had melted to the point where they were no longer closing. It's not clear if that happened because the flow of electricity was overheating the switch or opening the door prematurely was causing arcing which then caused the melting. It was clearly handling a lot of power. You can also see the wire size shows that the lower switch is handling full line voltage. So the lesson is to stop the microwave using the cancel button instead of just opening the door. You're right - a better design would be to have the door switches going to a full sized relay. I suppose the designers figured the switch was rated for that so why bother. Also, they sell a lot more microwaves this way :(

[@simonealexander1]

where do you buy the switch

[@JimMcLaren1950]

Good video, good point on checking the amp on the switch replacement.

[@826jfr]

I change the door switch, still door working can blowing when door opens ,push start and I hear a clicking sound

[@Chiggertown]

I have the same microwave, with same problem. Its a faulty door switch, but unable to get the door to open. How do I pry the door open?

[@michaelbyrne4087]

+Chiggertown take the shell off then you might be able to work the latches form the inside

[@reedturner9574]

I replaced the switch and still no spinning or heating. Could there be any other problems?

[@spencernardelli7896]

YOU ARE THE MAN!! Thanks

[@natew]

incredible video! thanks for sharing! by chance any idea what model microwave this is?

[@leobardorocha3081]

You replaced 3 switches or just one

[@miteeman]

You likely only need to replace one door switch, but eventually both high current door switches will go bad so better to replace both while you're at it.

[@throttlebuff]

Awesome.. You give great advice on problems that could arise instead of just how to replace

[@MrBababuwi]

Genius, I like your critical thinking......but you should mention the other possible multifactorial reasons (fuse, capacitor, turntable motor) why other microwaves fail to rotate turntable..... some viewers may automatically think it is the switch. In my case it was the motor..

[@GeorgeHuMIT]

I assume in your case, though, it actually heated things up. This isn't intended as a solve-it-all. But thanks for watching.

[@Zenith1968]

Hey what is your microwave model.