30th Anniversary of Serge Lutens Feminite Du Bois on Persolaise Love At First Scent episode 254

[@marinara5000]

I've been staring at my bottle for an hour.. Having just smelled this for the first time today. With so many woody scents in my collection, there is an animalic quality in this that elevates it far beyond the rest. Absolutely regal...

[@Persolaise]

It’s very special. Many thanks for watching.

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

I can still smell it on my skin now and it’s the ten hour mark now . Just Gorgeous.

[@Persolaise]

Excellent.

[@1015SaturdayNight]

When this hit the Shiseido counters I was working in handbags in a posh department store. My friend in cosmetics was like, SMELL THIS. It was unlike anything else popular at the time. In the early 90s you either had people wearing the big 80s powerhouse fragrances still, or the newer unisex fumes like CK One. Instead, I went around smelling like a sexy cedar chest. Oh, to be 23 years old again with a red bottle of Shiseido Feminite. I have a miniature of the vintage one and I dare not open it, it’s so old, heh! I’m not sure, but I think this perfume started my love of ISO E Super.

[@Persolaise]

Oh wow, thanks for sharing this. I'd be opening that mini if I were you.

[@1015SaturdayNight]

@@Persolaise I can’t believe it, but it smells beautiful. Not sure how to use the splash bottle without contamination though!

[@Persolaise]

@@1015SaturdayNight That's amazing. So pleased to read this.

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

So excited as it’s my SOTD as I finally bought a decant a couple of weeks ago and love it so much and have a second decant ready to go .

[@Persolaise]

Oh wow, brilliant. So pleased you like it.

[@elvanui1]

How did I miss this? How wonderful that FdB has been reigning for thirty years. I have a partial of the original edp that I bought in 2006(my first Lutens, so to speak) that I'm guarding ferociously and yes, it's deeper, and yes, it has less of that autumn-dark fruit compote, but thank the perfume gods, the new one is not far from it even after all those years. I think that's something worthy of celebrating when it comes to perfume reformulations. Thank You!

[@Persolaise]

I totally agree. Thanks very much for watching.

[@Eirini80]

This is such an amazing scent

[@Persolaise]

Totally agree.

[@catporter8417]

Beautiful essay on the fragrance! FdB will be my next buy 😍

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching.

[@James-sk5gh]

Hi Mr. P! Sorry I missed this live, it was 2 A.M yesterday in Indonesia when you did the live. I really enjoy wearing Feminite Du Bois, what a masterpiece. Very posh. I learned a lot about Serge Lutens from you, and I can't thank you enough. Discovered a lot of gems from this brand. Coincidentally, every Serge Lutens is currently on massive discount in one of major perfume retailers in Indonesia. I bought a bottle of A La Nuit yesterday for £50. Really enjoy it!

[@Persolaise]

Wow, that’s quite a discount. Thanks very much for watching.

[@donbeallhatandnocowboy]

Thank you, Mr. Persolaise, for reviewing this gem. I am lucky enough to own a 50ml bottle (half of it gone) of eau de parfum by Shiseido in that lovely dark bordeaux coloured bottle. And I am kicking myself for not buying up the entire stock of my local perfumery shop when it didn't cost an arm and a leg. I'm definitely not opposed to calling it the most luxurious potpourri, because it's simply beautiful and there's no shame in smelling like one! ALso, I'm relieved to hear that the Lutens version is a dignified replacement.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for writing, Ula. And yes, I’m sure many of us wish we’d bought up some old stock.

[@tubereuse_criminelle]

I can't believe I've missed your FdB review! I adore it ! This is how my love with Lutens perfumes started! I fell in love with the current version of it and later on tried Shiseido's. I think that modern has got a lot more cedarwood, and vintage is more spicy and fruit. Both are beautiful. I did not smell funky civet in my vintage sample..

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching. Yes, I think the modern one feels sweeter because of the higher fruity dosage.

[@StelmaDesigns]

Oh my gosh, I love this perfume! It was one of my most worn perfumes when it came out and I still own a 1/2 bottle and refill dabber and some very old body lotion, all Shiseido. To me the cedar is so prominent and beautiful. I am not sure it has civet in it? Definitely was unique when it came out and I am on the hunt for similar perfumes. The house, Scents of Woods has some that sound interesting but I have not tried any.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for writing. Yes, it’s a very special piece of work.

[@terrysmiles8599]

Very Nice Persoliase!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching, Terry.

[@annemiekevandenbelt2971]

Ah such a shame I wasn’t able to continue watching live after the first part… right at this moment, a miniature version of FdB SL I found on Vinted is underway from France. I was already curious how this smells, but now I’m even more excited to finally smell it! 🤗

[@Persolaise]

Wonderful. I don’t even know what Vinted is. Much investigate.

[@klaas020]

Hey Mr. Persolaise, that comparison to Kouros is so interesting and so right! Just brilliant! FdB is one of the few fragrances that I really, really miss and of which I don't want to try the new version. Vol de Nuit and Anthaeus are the two other ones of which I'd rather have the fond memories than owning their current incarnations, as there are so many other great fragrances to choose from. Thank you for posting!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching. Has Antaeus really changed that much? I need to do a proper side-by-side sniff with the few vintage drops I have.

[@klaas020]

With Anthaeus I guess it's the same thing as with Féminité du Bois. The fragrance remains very true to the original, but the current Anthaeus (I say current but I must admit I haven't tried it in a long time) lacks darkness, mossy wetness and has lost a bit of it's animals roar.....it no longer growls......thinner and more floral I would say. Side by sides are fun! Please do!

[@LiaAndrews]

I love that tension Feminite Du Bois creates between opposing energies. I have and wear the current Serge Lutens version, SL Bois et Fruits, and vintage Dolce Vita. I also have a small sample of the original Shiseido version, which has a richer, spicier character that I prefer. Bois de Violette is another fantastic variation on the theme.

[@Persolaise]

Wow - treasure all those gems. And thanks for watching.

[@jessicarosen4277]

Shiseido's FdB was my signature scent in the early 90's. In a sea of EA Sunflowers, Body Shop Dewberry, Clinique Happy, and CK One...FdB was the only scent that resonated with my Goth-tinged teenage self. I miss the original formulation. The SL version is lovely, but lacks the tension and the danger of the original.

[@Persolaise]

“Tension and danger” is a great way of putting it, thank you.

[@1015SaturdayNight]

Yes! I was an “alternative” music lover and Feminite was properly edgy.

[@francescareese7118]

I purchased Feminite Di Bois when it first launched long ago. My body chemistry has never been the greatest with any fragrance. I always have short longevity and things are so different on me than, say ppl I know that wear the same fragrance(s)???? I adored this scent when I bought and it didn't change on my skin (to me) the longevity albeit not as long as for many, was long enough for me to keep smelling it on my dress/clothing. I have thought of it very often over the many years and just ordered a new bottle. I will be interested to see how this purchased in 2024 is compared to my first purchase of Feminite Du Bois when if first launched. It was such a lovely scent and probably my most favorite so far in my life.

[@Persolaise]

I'll be fascinated to learn what you make of the current bottle. Thanks for watching.

[@alimaalikhan]

I have a long-empty original bottle I bought when I emptied my first Shiseido bottle when it was first released. Those bottles, like SL bottles, have a screw-top and can be refilled. I love the shape so much that I keep it refilled with the current version. I don’t find a significant difference between the original and current SL formulation. Part of the pleasure of using it, is the tactile delight of the original bottle. 😊

[@Persolaise]

That’s wonderful. I hadn’t realised it’s refillable. Thanks for watching.

[@1015SaturdayNight]

They definitely had a splash bottle, yes?

[@lucianac4388]

Mr. Persolaise, which one would you say Dolce Vita smells more similar to? The vintage or the current one? I bought two samples of Feminite du Bois each from a different seller but they are not dated... one of them smells stronger and more vivid and makes me think of Dolce Vita

[@Persolaise]

I wouldn't like to comment without doing a proper, side-by-side comparison.

[@suleikahorz8651]

I was always drawn to Féminité du Bois but finally preferred the variations around it. My favorite being Bois Oriental and Bois Violette. The latter is powdery and dry and gives me a feeling of wearing a dark and sophisticated scent at the same time. What comes to my mind is that it would be appropriate for wearing while playing the role of a futuristic Victorian lady. Very steampunky!

[@Persolaise]

Ah, steampunk. Yes, I can see what you mean. Thanks for watching.

[@zvikaso]

Hi Thanks for the review. Some compare FdB to Rochas Femme. Do you find them similar? Which one of them would you prefer (if you were forced to choose only one)? Is FdB a more modern/wearable/versatile version of Femme, or are they different enough to merit having them both as a must-have ? I can not get a sample of Femme, and I had horrific experience with blind buys :( Thus I am a bit sceptic about Femme blind buy. I will probably get FdB in the next Black Friday sales. I do rely on your nose (and 2 other reviewers), so if you say that having both is not a redundancy, I'll pull the trigger on Femme as well.

[@Persolaise]

I can't say I've ever really thought about FdB as being similar to Femme. Thanks for watching.

[@zvikaso]

@@Persolaise Thanks. Which of the two would you prefer (if you only could choose one) ?

[@darryl2542]

The first thing I thought of when I smelled the current Féminité was, "Rochas Femme! The reformulated one with the stewed peach and cumin!"

[@missmarie4513]

Zen by shiseido was awesome in the black bottle....smelled so refined better than l,'air du temps in it's recent forms... What do you think of azzaro for women 1975 , have you smelled that VIntage perfume and what is your opinion about it? Any resemblance to other vintage perfumes? Cheers 🥂😘

[@Persolaise]

Sorry, I’m afraid I don’t know that Azzaro. Thank you for watching.

[@Evolutionistz]

💫

[@Persolaise]

😊

[@ipurvi]

Would love to smell the original one someday

[@Persolaise]

It’s worth seeking out.

[@Prague4Introverts]

I loved the original, very witchy. This one is perhaps a bit more wearable. I just ordered a flacon.

[@Persolaise]

It's still gorgeous, right? Thanks for watching.

[@Prague4Introverts]

@@Persolaise Yes, it is unique, if a bit closer to Dolce Vita, its mass appeal cousin. I remember the original as being a lot more edgy. It moved from haute couture to an expensive prêt-a-porter.

[@annamartinico4803]

The original Feminite du Bois was amazing I prefer it over the Serge Lutens version. If only it was still produced. My favorite fragrance ever!

[@Persolaise]

It really is very special. Thanks for watching.

[@shirleycantoni3152]

I have to revisit the feminite du bois. Last time I tried it, it kind of smelt like B.O. underarm body odor. Don’t know why, but that’s what I remember 😅

[@Persolaise]

Maybe the cumin came out strongly.

[@shirleycantoni3152]

@@Persolaise yes it did

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

Sadly I don’t think I ever smelt the original although I was well aware of it and not sure why I didn’t try it .

[@Persolaise]

No, I’m not sure I ever tried the original either. But then it probably wasn’t available where I was living at the time.

[@a2zin125]

NU by YSL (pretty sure discontinued by now), was always the older sister to this, for me! Perhaps just a tad spicier tho. I used to get so many compliments on NU as well.

[@iyzabel]

I had the round gun metal-colored bottle of Nu, I don't remember it being similar to FdB. Nu was incense heavy. FdB is spicier. I may be wrong, this was over 20 years ago!

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I can completely see the connection, although I think Nu was more about incense than woods. But certainly, it had a similar spicy fuzzy velvet quality.

[@missmarie4513]

Nu by ysl was a cardamom bomb masterpiece... Fdb is centered around cedarwood

[@kim_yong_un]

Shiseido’s FdB was the first perfume i loved. I still have an empty bottle to sniff when i feel homesick to better days. Every perfume after FdB ended in the trash untill Ever Bloom came out. Everbloom is inferior to FdB, but atleast it’s not prone to get discontinued soon. I’m reluctant to try Serge Lutens’ FdB because i recall having thrown a bottle of Fleurs d’ oranger away after only one week of use. It was such a disappointment: For that money i expected some longevity and atleast a bottle that is comfortable to use. I read that this FdB is missing the sweet, warm and honey notes, is more fresh.. Why would he do that? Mess with something that was perfect😞

[@kim_yong_un]

I realize it’s the only perfume i really enjoyed, now i only wear perfume when it’s mandatory. How depressing😓

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching. I suspect the brand was forced to reformulate.

[@missmarie4513]

They keep comparing it to dolce vita by Dior in it's vintage form... But to my nose feminine du bois is like watching a film noir e.g. the movie casablanca a muted black and white movie with purple 🟣💜 undertones... Dolce vita is bright like a glass of champagne... As if the actress left the set of the black and white movie wore a colourful yellow 🟡💛 bikini drinking champagne under the sun 😎🌻

[@missmarie4513]

In feminine du bois the cedarwood is so profound like a dive in the deep sea... A darker sea...a summer day with the sun hiding behind the clouds....

[@Persolaise]

Great descriptions, thank you. They’re certainly not identical, but they do share some features.

[@missmarie4513]

What about the lamented Nombre Noir??

[@Persolaise]

I’ve never had a chance to smell it properly.

[@jon8860]

I experience Goldilocks syndrome with Féminité du Bois. While I think they are reformulated very well, I love white label Lutens the best. The Shiseido version has the loveliest wood facet but a bit too carnal, while the current black label Lutens is too sheer and fruity.

[@Persolaise]

Ah, interesting. I wonder how many formulations there have actually been. Thanks for watching.

[@tashaf9976]

it is a pity that you don't share how the scents smell on your skin. Of course, it is interesting to compare them sprayed on paper stripes, but we buy a scent to wear. We have different skin chemistry, and from my experience a good scent could be awful on the skin.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching and writing. As I smell several perfumes during one broadcast session, it wouldn’t be right to spray them on skin. Each ‘canvas’, whether it’s skin, paper, hair or fabric, offers different facets.

[@tashaf9976]

@@Persolaise I am not talking about several perfumes, it is about FdB