3D Printed Micro ATX / ITX case - 240mm AIO - Full size GPU

[@АлександрСлепушкин-у7в]

This is probably the best mATX 3D printed case I've seen yet. The best part for me that it uses almost no glue, so it can be printed with PETG, which I usually prefer over other types of plastics. The only thing is that I would like to have an option to edit the mesh pattern on those top and front panels. Thank you for this awesome design.

[@makerunit]

Thank you so much! They are editable but only with sketchup unfortunately. What you can do is import the STLs into another cad software and model copies of those panels yourself to be able to make a custom look, but that’s a little tricky as you’d need to make room for all the magnets etc also in the correct spots… Would be an option at least 😅 I’m afraid I’m unable to generate any .step files from Sketchup… apparently Sketchup models in a very different format than most other programs from what I understand so it’s hard to edit in other software… :/ my newer (upcoming) designs will all be available in more edit friendly formats like .step as I’m not using Sketchup anymore 😊

[@Draaghail]

This is the best, most thought throughout, compact sff mATX pc case I've ever seen

[@makerunit]

Thank you so much! 😊

[@erickrodriguessp]

Man, that is a Very neat project! Full respect to your work! Kudos

[@makerunit]

Thank you so much! I appreciate it! 😊

[@tieko9000]

To make the fans also adjust for the GPU, you can use "fan control" and set up a mixed curve consisting of a curve for CPU and GPU. Nice case!

[@makerunit]

Yeah for this build I personally went for the «quiet» setup rather than top performance as gaming and high performance tasks are just a fraction of what I use my PC for so a low noise is worth the most to me, and thanks! Glad you liked it!

[@tieko9000]

@@makerunit Depending on how noisy the GPU fans are, it might be worth making the case fans spin up for the GPU as well to keep the overall sound volume down. I am currently also designing a sub 5L case, mini itx with an A2000. I am a novice 3d printing guy and have issues with walls warping. Do you have any idea how to mitigate that?

[@makerunit]

@@tieko9000 put your printer inside an enclosure/closet, use some cheap sticky hairspray (thin layer on the bed), add «ears» to your design to keep the corners stuck down to build plate. Try increasing bed temperature, also, take off your build plate and give it a good clean with some dish soap and hot water, wipe dry with a towel, wipe with some alcohol, then add a thin coating of hairspray will help a lot at least from my experience! The hairspray can aometimes have the opposite effect as well because if PETG first sticks very well to a clean glass surfact it can sometimes stick so hard it’s impossible to remove without destroying the coating on the printbed… I’d love to see what you come up with if you’d be willing to share once you’re done! 😊 My printer(s) are inside a modified tall IKEA kitchen cabinet. (CR10v2 and Ender3v2) I print PETG at 70 bed 240 nozzle temp, I try to avoid any sudden temperature changes which may cause too rapid cooling of the parts causing walls to warp 👍

[@H31MU7]

"Full size GPU" RTX4090: a r e y o u s u r e a b o u t t h a t ?

[@makerunit]

Haha! Well, at the date of publishing this video most modern cards would fit!

[@OzTalksHW]

This is so cool! Gonna use this for an upcoming project :D

[@makerunit]

Awesome! I’m happy you liked the build! 😊

[@GothyCakesofficial]

Quick note for those replicating this build the material used for a filter isn’t leggings it’s semi opaque tights and depending on how opaque you buy them will restrict airflow differently

[@makerunit]

Thanks for clarifying! 😊 I’m not too familiar with these names! 😅

[@Kajukota]

This is amazing. Thank you so much for this. I loved your mini 8L case that reminded me of a Borg Cube from Star Trek. This Matx form factor means that I can use many old office PC parts and recycle them into a new form. I think I will even try to use PET filament from plastic bottles to make this case since you recommend a .6mm nozzle. I just have to get better at fusing the filament strands. A couple questions, About how much filament in Kgs did you use? Do you have any plans for adjusting the design to allow ATX or other form factor power supplies?

[@makerunit]

Thank you! I’m very happy you like my designs! The 0.6 nozzle really cuts print time in half and took with my settings about 80-90 hours of total print time (if all prints go as expected). About the filament, I’d say around 2kg is probably expected (I think slightly under 2kg if all goes well). All this depends on wall thickness, infill, nozzle size etc. I have thought about a few solutions for ATX but haven’t gotten around to do it yet but I’ll definitely give it a shot in not too long. I’ll try my best to keep the form factor the same in the front if possible, but may slightly extend the front if necessary to fit. What model PSU are you thinking about using? Or what’s it’s dimensions?

[@ChrisKadaver]

Such fantastic work! Really!!!

[@makerunit]

Thank you! Glad you liked it! I really love the layout too been my main PC since it was built now and I really love how I can just stare at those RGB lights through the glass all day long, it aint a true gaming pc without visible RGB right?!

[@ChrisKadaver]

@@makerunit I don't know about RGB. It's secondary to your brilliant design work. :)

[@makerunit]

@@ChrisKadaver thanks! I really appreciata your kind words! Yeah the RGB thing was kind of a little joke but I used to hate RGBs a year back but now I’m really starting to like it 👍

[@emreakyol1424]

It can be perfect if you turn your xbox series X console into a pc case, the xbox logo on the front can be used as a power button. That's an absolutely brilliant idea, I hope you do.

[@makerunit]

Hey! The size of the Series X literally makes it impossible to replicate it as a mITX case. As the series x is approx 150x150mm in size and the iTX motherboard is 170mm… the series x uses a custom size motherboard to fit the chimney style. An oversized version could potentially work but would be impossible to replicate the exact size unfortunately. If you look at my very first case video I made, it was actually inspired by the Xbox Series X. With the chimney style cooling. And my intention at first was to make a series X replica but I couldn’t make it fit…

[@Roodementary]

This is awesome! Been following your channel for a while hoping you finished your designs!

[@makerunit]

Thanks Ashton! I’m glad you liked it and I hope the finished design was close to what you were hoping for 😊

[@joshuagamer08]

could you use a bigger PSU or is the SFX PSU a must to make sure everything will fit? I will not be running a gpu this is a secondary PC. ( Also super sick build!!!! I love your design)

[@makerunit]

The only size PSU that will fit now is a SFX unfortunately. The reason for not making it ATX was because I was afraid the front part would be too bulky… Technically it would probably fit volume wise if I made a mount for it but it would most likely stick out past the glass window looking kinda ugly. I wanted a clean look but I might look into it some more later to see if I can find a better solution😊 i could possibly extend the front slightly and either remove the intake fan in the front. This would free up tons of space allowing for even the longest power supplies but at the cost of slightly less airflow…

[@arnoholmstrom2008]

@@makerunit Hi, have you done that? :)

[@makerunit]

@@arnoholmstrom2008 I’m really sorry to say I haven’t gotten around to do that just yet!

[@namelessmusik4345]

@@makerunit your Design is amazing. Would you mind If If i Take IT ans try to make in ATX Psu read ?

[@makerunit]

@@namelessmusik4345 Thank you! And, you are welcome to modify the design however you’d like! 😊

[@theRockChines]

Increrible what we can do with a 3D Printer. Great job, no, perfect job! Congrats!

[@makerunit]

Thank you so much! I appreciate it! 😊

[@victorc1462]

Cool case, wish it had some dust filters. Edit: I see, you have it there. Great job

[@makerunit]

Thank you! 😁

[@victorc1462]

what Im really looking forward to is being able to 3d print a passively cooled case like monsterlabo "the first" I feel like passive cooling is a great concept that is underutilised today@@makerunit

[@homoud747]

Man That awesome, you are really talented Can’t wait for more videos from you

[@makerunit]

Thank you! Glad you enjoy my work! 😊

[@woofkaf7724]

You can make some parts thinner (less plastic and pr time) by adding stiffeners. Like MB holder. And they will be less flexy.

[@makerunit]

Yeah I could probably do some material saving on a few of the parts definitely, some may be unnecessarily thick perhaps.

[@Quast]

let me think of a compliment that reflects my level of amazement and aprreciation uhhhh.... If MacGyver was into manufacturing, I think he would gladly team up with you! :) Each and every time, I especially enjoy the pattern you have chosen/developed for your panels. Reminds of the regions that have to deal with severe heat and least I associate these with those regions. ^^" Must blend in stunningly into the room if one has RGB in the right angles inside the case! :o

[@makerunit]

Thank you! I’m glad you liked it! Oh I’d definitely team up with MacGyver! 😜

[@mastervule1844]

Aa this is amazing! really inspiring me to do something similar, I'm sure it's quite a trip to get to skill level you have now but I believe it has potential to be so fun!

[@makerunit]

Thank you so much! Learning the 3D programs themselves are not that hard but the hardest part of making anything is really the idea, imagining exactly what you want and make it, think of solutions, as long as you have a clear picture of exactly what you want in your head, from my experience it’s not that hard to turn into a functional piece, but of course through trial and failure you’ll learn what works and what doesn’t which will make it easier over time definitely. It’s a lot of fun in the process though! 👌

[@mastervule1844]

@@makerunit I live for stuff like this haha. Thank you for opening my eyes to the possibilities :)

[@makerunit]

@@mastervule1844 I’ve got a fun little project going on right now soon ready for the printer! Actually I’ve got two case projects, one finished designing and one almost finished case soon ready to hit the printer! It’s been quiet on this channel for too long now 😅

[@markshaz8691]

This was really nicely done. Thanks subbed.

[@makerunit]

Thank you! I appreciate it! 😊

[@Peter-dv1bg]

this is so sick

[@makerunit]

Thank you! :)

[@voodoovinny7125]

It needs a matching 4 or 5 bay 3.5" enclosure for storage.

[@makerunit]

For sure! 😉

[@Flapdr01]

Looks like it works well, congrats

[@makerunit]

Thank you 😊 oh it works suprisingly well! I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out (if I had just nailed the print quality a little bit more it’d be perfect!)

[@wolvrG]

Awesome. Exactly what I was looking for, Small factor MATX case. Request you to make one case design for flat thin case for MATX. Something like SFF Time P-ATX. It gives a good expression of console size case for PC Gaming and will fit easily behind or below TV.

[@makerunit]

Thanks! Glad you liked it! 😊 I was actually yesterday thinking through some ideas on making a super slim case but I was thinking about using mini ITX for that though as it would be way more compact that way. I’m not sure if mATX would fit well in that super compact slim case genre. 😆 like a console style easy to travel gaming pc!

[@wolvrG]

@@makerunit The only reason i thought of m-atx is because ITX is still expensive and difficult to get. m-atx is little bigger but open to a lot of possibility.. I really liked SFF Time P-ATX case but unfortunately its out of stock and i would be never able to buy it in my country due to unavailability. But it is a best match with pc gaming console type case.

[@makerunit]

@@wolvrG Aha, yeah I see! I’ll keep the idea in mind! Maybe I’ll suddenly decide to try it sometime 😊

[@wolvrG]

@@makerunit That would be awesome.

[@illerhag]

Nice work. I would love to have an assembly file or stepfile.

[@makerunit]

Thank you Joel! So sorry for the late response I’ve been away the past week and couldn’t answer your comment as it would then disappear from the «new comments» section as a reminder to myself to reply once I was home! Would .obj work? I’m unfamiliar with the step file format as I’ve never really used it, how can I export it from sketchup?

[@Kommunisator]

Great case and great design! I think this might even fit height-wise inside an Ikea Kallax shelf? Not much room on top then for airflow though, and it will stick out the front/back a little. My main question though is down to the PSU: Do SFX-L PSUs with their larger fans fit, or does it have to be a "short" SFX PSU? (not that I have any of those around, I only have spare ATX PSUs, but hey ^^ )

[@makerunit]

Hey! Glad you liked the design! The case is originally designed to hold the standard SFX psu. (125x100x63). I might eventually do an upgraded version supporting ATX in the future 😊

[@one_step_sideways]

​@@makerunit I'd love to see the upgraded version with an ATX PSU support too. I might actually print one to get all my components out from the old mid tower case which is too bulky. Perhaps the best way you can improve the case is to make it easily printable with the Ender-3 printer (with its 220x220x250mm print limit). Perhaps you can split it into more parts because just printing smaller portions of the same parts and using hot glue isn't the best option.

[@Mrkkatorze]

@@makerunit I'd love to see the upgraded version with an ATX PSU support too

[@roguemo]

i have watched your latest video and see you have come so far from that so would you consider making a remodel to this case as the mAtx cases are not getting enough attention especially that there are lots of matx motherboards that are so close in size to the itx motherboards so maybe you can make something closer to that size .... great work tho and keep it up

[@makerunit]

Hi! I’m actually working on a mATX case as we speak. My next project will be a version of the «Little Boy» with mATX and support for a lot more! 👍😊

[@konstantinmon2816]

Nice works, thanks for sharing!

[@makerunit]

Thank you! 😊

[@tomasnuno5851]

Damn! I'd love to see the same project with space for an atx psu. If you ever made it, i'd print it for my pc.

[@makerunit]

I probably won’t be doing any more modifications on this specific case as it’s made in Sketchup and I’ve changed CAD program and Sketchup files are hard to edit in other programs… but I will very likely make more mATX cases or even ATX cases in the future 👌

[@MasterOfMotivations]

thinking of using this in my next sff build what magnets did u use btw

[@makerunit]

I used 8x3mm neodymium magnets 😊 all parts required are listed in the video description

[@Parzival-h1o]

I love this and want to make it but I’m wondering can this be done in PLA

[@makerunit]

Most printed cases CAN be done in PLA, really boils down to the parts you intend on using inside the case and where you intend to use the case. If you’re going to use all the fans and low-power, low-heat components it should be just fine. High power, high heat components, or generally a hot environment(like high ambient temperature or in a window in direct sunlight) I recommend steering away from PLA. Generally my recommendation is almost always PETG, ASA, ABS or similar materials due to their better temperature resistance. I hope this helps you decide. I live in a generally «cool» climate in Norway and I’ve never had any issues with PLA, but this is not the situation for everyone so you need to make your own decision based on your situation.

[@legacyfn]

This looks really nice gunna print it this week

[@makerunit]

Awesome! 😊 this model is suprisingly rigid! Though it does use a lot of screws etc, where my newer models have been simplified a lot.

[@slayerboii86]

For the PCIe slot, is there a way to just cut one portion? say its a card that only takes one slot instead of two, don't want it to have an awkward open space in the middle

[@makerunit]

Hmm, I guess the file can be edited and just fill in the empty space required? Import the .stl file into any cad software. Add a plane surface the same thickness (I believe 3mm) to fill the space you need, then merge the parts into one piece and export it as a new STL. Might do the trick. Then double check that the part slices correctly before sending it off to the printer? OR you can print the part as it is, then measure the empty space and model and print just a small rectangular piece that’s just the right size to fit into the opening, then glue or plastic weld it from the inside which would probably pretty clean too 👌

[@slayerboii86]

@@makerunit I will give it a try, thank you! And sorry for misspelling awkward lol I was typing it last night while trying to sleep

[@makerunit]

@@slayerboii86 let me know if you struggle and I’ll see if I can help more. It’s just that I don’t have a 1 slot card to use as reference 😅 Also, I guess trying to sleep and phone use is a bad combination. 🤣

[@PCBWay]

That's really something! 👍

[@makerunit]

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the build 😊

[@outcast6187]

Nice! I want to make something similar but more of a skeleton design where the panel walls are just leggings/black fly screen mesh covered instead of patterns , this will save on print time/material. I don’t sit near my PC so panel walls for noise dampening isn’t of concern to me. Any recommendations?

[@makerunit]

If you want something very simple you could just do some measurements of your pc parts and then make a very basic square/rectangle shape out of 4 flat surfaces. Then add all your hole locations and then once all screw holes are added you could hollow out the panels as much as you like from the solid surfaces, if that made sense, leaving you with a basic skeleton just to hold the parts in place… but could always go a little more advanced though, but hard to explain case design over a comment 😅

[@RetroBerner]

Slick design, would love to see one made of aluminum

[@makerunit]

Thanks Steve! Making an aluminum/metal case is already on my future to-do list, but at the moment I don’t have necessary equipment or space to do metalworking but definitely something I’d be down to try in the future! 😊

[@danarrib]

Hey, this is probably the best mATX 3d printed case ever. Would you make a version with ATX PSU support?

[@makerunit]

Hi! I’ll probably not do an ATX version of this case, but I’m currently working on a mATX case that will use way less printed parts, way less filament and that will be way easier to build with more flexibility (is the goal at least😅) oh, and the new design is intended to support ATX psu’s as well.

[@danarrib]

@@makerunitAwesome! I already subscribed to the channel. Looking forward to see the new case!

[@makerunit]

@@danarrib Awesome! My guess is that it’ll be ready in roughly 2-4 weeks… 😊

[@marto1671]

WOW!! Im just in the idea of build my own case, with my old Asus a55bm motherboard, is there any desing variation of this case that can fill a full psu? Thx @makerunit, sorry for my english and best regards from Argentina!

[@makerunit]

Hi! I’m glad you like the case, and your english is actually very good. I do not have a variation of this specific design but I’m about to make a brand new ATX case that should support both ATX motherboards and ATX psu 😊

[@MarkSaundersTheRev]

Really useful. I'm wondering if anyone tweaked this to allow for more 3.5" HDDs rather than the radiator?

[@makerunit]

I’m happy you liked it! It should probably be as simple as making an adapter plate perhaps that mounts to the 120mm fan holes 👌 should be a quick print if you know some basic CAD skills.

[@itzmydamnlyf]

Awesome project. Can you direct me to the list of screw size used?

[@makerunit]

Hey, thanks! I thought I uploaded a complete list in the Thingiverse link but I see now that something went wrong apparently... I'll update it right away.

[@makerunit]

For some reason Thingiverse won’t let me update the text so I added the list at the bottom of this video description 👍

[@pumpuppthevolume]

man that's an awesome case

[@makerunit]

Thanks! Happy you liked it!

[@elzafir]

How many meters (or cost) of filament did you use to make this?

[@makerunit]

Hi! I actually recently disassembled this and weighed the weight without components installed and came to a weight of 2940 grams. This number includes the plexigglass and all screws, magnets, glue etc used. Therefore I concluded that the plastic itself is about 2.5 - 2.6 kilos in total, given that one spool equals approximately 340 meters, the total amount of filament in meters would be 340 x 2.6 = approx 884 meters of filament. :) I hope this helps!

[@elzafir]

@@makerunit Thank you! It helps a lot!

[@bigfatmosa4441]

thats nice build!

[@makerunit]

Thank you! I’m glad you liked it 😊

[@Mr.NiceGuy1986]

very cool, how much resin did you go through to make this PC?

[@makerunit]

Hi, I did not use resin for this build but regular PETG filament. I went through just under 2 spools of 1kg each.

[@chelarestelar]

Oh god. This is 80% of what I've been looking for. Unfortunately, I have an ATX PSU, and I want it to be under my mobo. I think I'll just 3d print the mounting plate for the mono with some legs around the PSU and, like in my current case, make some panels out of wood Either way, this vid is going into my favs list

[@makerunit]

I see! I’m glad you like my design and want to favorite it! Stay tuned for more projects on my channel in the future. I’m definitely not done with «bigger» cases. I’ll try my best to have ATX Psu support in the future where possible. This actually one of the most requested features on my case. Also, the one case I have that do support ATX power supply is also by far the most popular. Maybe that’s what ya’ll want 😅 I should start listening

[@mmlei7540]

@@makerunitI love all of your cases! but I have an ATX PSU and a microATX motherboard. They're large but I don't have any external drives and I wish I knew how to design a case with lots of airflow that could support these components. I would also have to find a way to split the parts to print on my Prusa MK2 and Ender 3 print bed but this is so so cool.

[@makerunit]

@@mmlei7540 Hi! Where it's possible I try to make sure my cases fit printers like the Ender 3, but only if I feel like it won't affect the overall preferred look of the case. Most of my designs are based on a build volume of 300x300x300mm as that's what I have on hand. (I might also get the Creality K1 Max, which has that volume too). ATX psu and mATX motherboard require some size and, it's not impossible but it would definitely be a case with a lot of parts to be able to fit the Ender 3 or the Prusa.

[@chelarestelar]

​@@makerunitoi. I ended up making my case out of 10mm plywood. External dimensions of 28cm×28cm×20'2cm, internal of 26×26×18'2. Did end up getting an SFX PSU, put it over the Mobo instead of under. Joined the panels using these "L" shaped thingies made to put on the inside of a joint, but put them outside. I gotta come up with a better way tho, because on a bunch of them I just couldn't put all of the screws

[@makerunit]

@@chelarestelar Cool! Yeah I understand that adding all the screws for the L brackets can be hard especially if all the parts are installed as well it could get tight for sure! Have you considered 3D printed brackets that can slide in place in the corners? Then you would just need one screw or locking pin on each corner to lock the parts in place.

[@_ollman]

Amazing! What software did you use to explode and animate the 3D view?

[@makerunit]

I actually used Blender for that. It’s free. I had to manually position every single part. But it’s quite simple just select a starting point for each part (the case assembled) set a keyframe for all the objects, move a few seconds on the timeline, Then move them all to their «exploded» position. Set a new keyframe. Move a few seconds then set new keyframes in the same position. So in between those points it stands still, then move another few seconds then copy the original (assembled) (first)keyframes into that spot at the end again. Then you will have a case that starts assembled, then animates into an explode, then stay a few seconds, then go back into assembled. Maybe this was a bit unclear but it’s a relatively simple process is what I’m trying to say. For the camera movement I just manually move the virtual «camera» from point A to point B and blender will automatically create a soft start and soft endstops so it all looks smooth 👌

[@Cyber_Gas]

What is the total cost of the case excluding and including not 3d printed parts

[@makerunit]

Hmm, it’s a while since I built this case so the prices are not fresh in mind but about 2.5 to 3kg of filament, + misc. screws, magnets, plexiglass etc probably ends up at close to 70-80 dollars in total would be my guess. Depending on your filament costs the filament should be in the range of 40-60 dollars total and screws and other stuff another 20 bucks. Hope it helps. I’m aware it’s not the cheapest case to make but this is one of my older cases and my new ones use much less random parts and screw sizes, also less filament. 😊

[@Cyber_Gas]

@@makerunit thanks, will there be mac pro 2019 style matx case with atx psu ?

[@makerunit]

@@Cyber_Gas I don’t have anything specifically planned like a Mac Pro 2019 but I am working on a case to support both ATX psu and ATX motherboard and a large GPU. I’m hoping to have it done sometime in May. 😊

[@stan4079]

Hello i love your vids, they really inspire me, i did make a case similiar to this one but now im wondering do you have any tips for a case to downsize my work pc, its nothing good or modern or spectacular but id love to make a case for it, the problems are that its a full size psu and the gpu is around 240-244mm long, i want to try and make a case with no PCI extension and just have the mobo and gpu, aslo the mobo is mATX, i just want some tips for designing it or if you have similiar models in mind, that i can look at how you solved some problems ill be very thankful to you if you reply

[@makerunit]

Hi Stan! I’m glad you enjoy watching my videos. If you just hold on for a few days I’m almost finished with the video of my newest case which solves this exact problem. Supports mATX mobo and ATX psu, can also hold 300mm 3-slot GPU’s 😊

[@kilosierra1560]

epic! love the work

[@makerunit]

Thank you! So glad you liked it! 😊

[@wolfmercer]

great work. do you think you mite do a small open rig with the same or similar cooling. keep the cool videos coming👍👍👍

[@makerunit]

Thank you! I’ve been quite busy lately as you can see it’s been a while since I last posted anything new but I do have some ideas I’m planning to do so just need the time, an open rig would be really cool to do sometime definitely! 😁

[@SnappyDrift]

I’m waiting for an atx case next!

[@makerunit]

I’m planning to do that down the road 😊

[@Lusanagi]

I'm looking for a mATX case (I was looking at the Revolt 3 first, but mITX boards are expensive) for my brother so that he can move freely (he has a gaming laptop right now and want to convince him of going build instead of buying a new one) and this one fits the bill almost to a T! (the ones I've seen so far have a PSU shroud, so it's taller) The only thing missing would be the ATX PSU support as, at least here in the Mexico, SFX are REALLY expensive. Would there be any way to put a handle bar for transportation?

[@makerunit]

Hi, I’m glad you liked it! It’s always possible to add a handle for transportation, but I’m not sure exactly where I would mount it, the top panel is very thin and I wouldn’t trust it to hold the whole weight of the pc to be honest 😅 Long term my plan is to design some kind of console style, travel friendly pc case. Not sure when but it will come someday.

[@someuser4166]

I've been wanting to 3d print an all in one / luggable pc case with a 3090. Kinda like a fallout 4 terminal. I wonder if that is possible 🤔

[@makerunit]

Everything is possible! I’m not familiar with that fallout terminal but a quick google search lead me to some answers! Are you thinking a fully functional one that can actually run or more like a prop? Because the google search «Fallout 4 terminal» lead me to some printable prop versions!

[@someuser4166]

@@makerunit I wanted to make a functional one. I sorta want a desktop computer I can take with me (I need a full sized gpu so I can't get a laptop) seems there we're computers like that back in the 80s but not so much now a days. I know how to model in blender but I don't have a 3d printer but I guess there are services for that 🤔 There's a guy called willudesign on yt that built sorta what I wanted 10 years ago. He called it the cinematograph HD but he welded it instead of printing it

[@makerunit]

@@someuser4166 Welded it? That's pretty cool though! I'm not at that stage yet, but my advice is, if you really want it, go for it, design it, honestly, you may even get yourself a cheap(er) printer like the Ender 3v2 or similar and make it yourself. Nothing beats the feeling of accomplishment once a project is finished. Just sayin, but it'll be hard I can promise you that! You won't believe how many fails and wasted filament I have to go through for each case I make, but I learn from every mistake and improve a little each time and that's what's important.

[@klipse]

is there a version that supports ATX psus i want to use this case for my living room

[@makerunit]

Unfortunately, there is not. And I’m not planning to add this for this case partially because I’ve stopped using Sketchup which is where I made this case, but ATX support will come in the future again for other cases hopefully 😊

[@Neutronity]

You are a godsend

[@makerunit]

I’m glad you liked it Tim! 🙂

[@greybeardtech821]

Awesome design, I think I might have to modify a little for my son and build him one. Have you considered using heat insert threads just to make it easier to assemble and for maintenance down the road?

[@makerunit]

I have considered it definitely. But believe me, those wood screws grip on extremely tight. 😊 I’ve disassembled this a countless amount of times and it still holds up very well.

[@hungryhungryhummer]

I have a cr10v2 as well. What brand petg filament r u using? What temps, infill and are you using an enclosure? I’ve had lots of trouble with warping when printing big petg prints though the bed adhesion on the glass is great. You are amazing at designing these cases. I hope I can make one half as decent😂

[@makerunit]

Thank you for the kind words! About the filament I actually PETG from a scandinavian store called Clas Ohlson which I do not think they sell elsewhere, but it’s basically generic non branded PETG the cheapest stuff I could find honestly. I believe it’s more about creating a stable environment to prevent warps etc. 240 Nozzle, 60 Bed and at the time of making this I had it i side a closet. Currently working on an enclosure for my CR10v2 as I have moved from where I had it last.

[@hungryhungryhummer]

@@makerunit Ok. I think ill end up making an enclosure out of some plywood i have laying around. I've found that without an enclosure and inland petg from Microcenter(a store in my country) 245c and 85c on the bed is the only temp that works for me which is beyond the limit of the stock hotend, but it's been working.

[@vasishtbatchu69]

What wire does the psu extension use to connect to the socket? It doesn’t say in the description

[@makerunit]

It’s a c13 cable (same standard cable as used in most PC power supplies) that’s been cut off from the wall socket and stripped. I hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

[@vasishtbatchu69]

@@makerunit ok thanks! But I had one more question - does the socket that is linked online come with the necessary cables?(the mini ones)

[@makerunit]

@@vasishtbatchu69 Hi, I’m so sorry for the late responses for some reason I’m not getting push notifications like I did before. Anyways. The socket (C14) requires additional flat sockets. You’ll need 3x 6.3mm width flat connectors. Preferably ones that are insulated with a plastic cover. These are easily available in most places they sell electronics or on Amazon. You need the female connector and a crimping tool or solder and some pliers to make a secure connection. The male and female connectors usually come in kits containing both. Search for: 6.3mm flat connector. I’d recommend getting just a simple kit with a few different sizes as they are generally cheap and could come in handy later. Just make sure to insulate them well with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent possible shorting.

[@vasishtbatchu69]

@@makerunit thanks a lot!

[@ВислописПисловисович]

How much plastic it took? E.g. how much did it cost?

[@makerunit]

Hi! I personally spent close to 2 full rolls (1kg spools) from what I can remember. But will vary based on print settings, nozzle size, infill etc.

[@Sleeplessness0100]

How do you wire the rocker switch and power socket to the PSU?

[@makerunit]

I use a regular power socket (C13 cable 90 degree) and run it through the case all the way to the socket in the back and cut the cable and strip the insulation on the ends of the 3 leads inside. Then I add those female flat connectors to the ends of the cables, there should be one positive, and one negative, and one ground pin on the socket, either the positive or negative lead has to go through the flip switch with just like a little bridge before going to the actual socket, this so you can cut off the power when required. From here it really depends because it’s different from country to country, like where I live we have AC current meaning it doesn’t really matter which side is positive or negative, but in some countries using DC power from the wall it’s only gonna work one way. What I suggest is asking someone you know who knows a little bit about electricity to help you out with that bit. IF YOU DON’T FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING THIS YOURSELF YOU SHOULD ASK FOR HELP BECAUSE ELECTRICITY CAN HURT YOU IF DONE WRONG. I hope my explaination was understandable! And remember NOT to have the power plugged into the wall while doing this! 😊

[@Sleeplessness0100]

@@makerunit Thank you 👍

[@wfornes]

hello, very nice case, it will be possible to use an atx psu in the case? thank you

[@makerunit]

Hi, thanks! I’m glad you like the case but I’m sorry but it’s only designed to fit SFX psu unfortunately. 🥲

[@pavapizza27]

Hi, could you possibly make one with ATX PSU support?

[@makerunit]

Hi, unfortunately I will not upgrade this version no more but I soon have a mATX case coming out within a week or so that will support ATX psu 😊

[@itsespien]

Nice! 🔥

[@makerunit]

Thank you! :)

[@Vasher-The-Destroyer]

Give it some sanding and I bet it would look like a legit case you'd get off amazon or something or even better save a lot of money for one of those metal 3d printers.

[@makerunit]

Definitely! Wouldn’t hurt with some sanding, filler and a coat of paint 💪

[@bigblack2295]

Welldone cool project, could you give the dimensions and empty weight of it ?

[@makerunit]

Approx size in millimeters: L383;H330;W235 It’s actually disassembled right now due to another project so I weighed the components together and came to the weight 2940 grams. But that included all screws, standoffs, filter material, glue, and plexiglass. So let’s say filament usage approx 2.5-2.6 kilos depending on printsettings… this is actually interesting to me as I have all this time thought it was under 2 kilos because I seem to remember I used about two full spools. But I had a few failed prints during testing/prototypes so hard to pinpoint exact amount. But the weight indicated approx 2.5 spools total 😊 I hope you found this helpful! And thanks! 😊

[@bigblack2295]

@@makerunit That's really helpful thank you so much 🙏

[@luisangelsan19]

In my country they don't import quality SFX power supplies, only ATX, here they sell poor quality generic small power supplies. Could this model be adapted to an ATX power supply?

[@makerunit]

There is unfortunately no ATX version available right now, or probably also won’t be for this specific model, at least not from me as I designed the case in Sketchup which I’m no longer using (or have a license for). If I ever make another mATX case I’ll try to implement ATX PSU support then 😊

[@nutronik9]

What is the max cpu cooler height if you didnt use an io?

[@makerunit]

I’d say about 175mm, but 170mm to be safe, most air coolers with 120mm fans would fit within this size 😊

[@swez__4937]

i love this, can you make a version with an atx psu support? thank you so much !

[@makerunit]

I probably won’t be upgrading this design further but I’ll be making more mATX compatible cases in the future. Stay tuned! 😊

[@CrystallisedEntertainment]

This was an informative video, thank you! Quick question as I'm designing a case renascent of a old computer system - can I get by with just creating rails and no use screws for the frame and "body" of the computer (like how you assembled your case)? I know I will need screws for the drives, motherboard and PSU, but if it is ill advised to have them absent for the rigidity of the case then please let me know! 😅

[@makerunit]

Hey! Awesome that you’re trying to build your own case! Honestly I think that it will have no problem with rigidity as long as it’s a well designed case where each sliding part kind of interlock with another so the case «locks» in all the axis it should be just fine! Try in the design process to imagine how each part will lock another part in place and this also plays a big role in the order you’d assemble the parts. There are so many variables when designing a case like you have to imagine the whole assembly process and really make sure every component or body part fits the way it’s intended. I’ve had cases I’ve designed that turned out to be physically impossible to install the actual components inside due to design flaws making me have to start over, but that’s part of the learning process and it gets a little better every time! Almost no case turns out perfect the first attempt, even for this video I had to print like 3 full cases making adjustments on the way everytime I realised a new mistake. But yeah to answer your question, it’s definitely doable, and I do not think rigidity will be an issue. Also think of whether the PC is intended to just be stationary or on the move all the time, this should and will affect the way you think.

[@CrystallisedEntertainment]

@@makerunit - Thanks for the advice! I'll bear this in mind. I think the machine will be largely stationary. The case I'm designing is based on a rare computer named the "Microdigital Omega" as I've always liked the look of the "Standard" case (There were 3 case variants, with the "Tower" being the most popular as far as I can tell). Since I'm putting a energy efficent ARM system inside it, I'm thinking I can get away having it passively cooled without fans. There are some modifications to my variant such as a grille for the PSU fan (as I belived the OG didn't have that facing outwards) and me squashing it to fit a ITX MoBo with dimensions of (LxWxH) 280x180x250mm (opposed to 280x180x360mm). Since the Motherboard I want isn't out yet due to the component shortage, so I'm using a different one in CAD as it should be the same. I think the printed pieces will be 3-5mm thick with 30% in-fill. The highest res images of the case I found in scanned issues of Acorn User (Issues #220 and #234), so I'm using them as reference. Here is some pictures as it currently stands. I only started a few days ago and have about put in 1.2hrs so far, so that is why it looks unfinished and why components are not actually mounted yet. The black piece in the front is basically the only part I've finalised bar me wanting to change the height of the 3.5" bay slot as I think it's too short. I have also included a image of the genuine article for you to see how it will come together. I welcome any feedback you may have! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Xvje1dl1417EDVMoAeLTmS-T6mypUkzp?usp=sharing Thank you in advance and I hope this helps! =)

[@makerunit]

@@CrystallisedEntertainment I see, my go to thickness is usually 3-4mm for the walls and they’re pretty strong. CAD files look good so far, seems like a decent layout! I’m not familiar with that type of case but I see you’re going for that retro look, when you say passively cooled, do you mean no fans at all or just no chassis fans?

[@CrystallisedEntertainment]

@@makerunit - That is indeed correct. Since it's got an ARM chip inside (RISC-based, same as found in phones), I don't think it need fans just due to how efficient these things are.

[@makerunit]

@@CrystallisedEntertainment I see! Sounds like you’ve got it all under control, might be an idea to add a fan mount just in case though, just to get some kind of airflow if needed. Just like have the holes available if needed. Maybe try to think of a layout that allows you to add a fan (can be any size really) 50mm fan or 200mm fan they all do some good, so might be an idea to leave an area open just in case it’s getting too hot and you wanna add one later, or else you may have to redesign and print the entire thing over again. Just what I would do but might not be necessary, I’m in no way an «expert» so if you feel confident I say go ahead, and have fun while doing it! 😊

[@wolvrG]

Is there anyway possible to fit a proper PSU in this case?

[@makerunit]

Hello, no unfortunately not with the current design, but I might be making another version supporting ATX at a later point 😊

[@wolvrG]

@@makerunit Yes please that would be helpful.. I have all the matching specs for this case except that I have a modular ATX PSU. I am planning to make a micro case and get rid of my full tower case. Also can we use ABS material? Which material will be best for case printing?

[@makerunit]

@@wolvrG I believe any material should work just fine, I personally used PETG but PLA or ABS should work if you can print it. But my recommendation is PETG as the layers bond very strong together and gives a semi-shiny look to it. (From my experience) feels a lot sturdier than PLA for example. Never tried ABS personally so I wouldn’t know too much about it.

[@TirzaBoi]

minimum required printer size?

[@makerunit]

300x300x300 (like a CR10 or similar) 👍

[@krilledahl8894]

Nice work! 👌🏻Which slicer do you use ? Do you mind sharing your profile for petg ?

[@makerunit]

Thank you! At the time of making this I used SuperSlicer, kinda similar to PrusaSlicer, but I used a profile pretty close to the stock PETG profile that comes with the slicer and I believe I printed it at 240•c nozzle 60• bed, no fan first layer, some cheap hair spray for stickiness… unfortunately I do not have that exact profile anymore, but it’s mainly some minor tweaks to fit my printer.

[@krilledahl8894]

Ok 👍🏻 Thank you 🙏🏻 Any chance that you could export the files from sketchup as .stp or .step. I saw another user asking for that. Would be nice. 😀

[@makerunit]

@@krilledahl8894 I’ll be away until tomorrow but I’ll see if I can get it done when I’m back home, if you could (if I forget) remind me tomorrow by replying to this comment that’ll be nice, then I’ll see if I’m able to add those to the thingiverse file. I did add the sketchup file to thingiverse right? You may be able to export them yourself from there perhaps if you don’t want to wait. 😊

[@mikkobawej4765]

Dude, you are a fucking legend

[@makerunit]

Thanks man!

[@serewasfera]

Help please! I printed it out but I'm stuck at the part where I need to screw the motherboard panel to the case. Does anyone know how and what to do this with?

[@makerunit]

Hi! Can you specify a little more what you’re struggling with? Are you using M4 sized machine screws? 😊 about 10-12mm long should be good.

[@Wickerdrummer]

Fantastic!

[@makerunit]

Thank you!

[@flpnice2329]

what 3d printerdo you have?

[@makerunit]

I’m mainly using a slightly modified Creality CR10v2. It’s got an E3D Hemera Direct drive extruder and an SKR E3 Mini v2 motherboard which has better motor drivers to enable functions like «linear advance» etc giving slightly sharper corners and better prints.

[@m0neez]

what is the size of the case and volume?

[@makerunit]

The volume is approximately 28 liters. Around 39x32x22 cm in size. But printable on a 300x300mm print bed 😀

[@TaiwaneseDude1]

What’s the size of the magnet that I’ll need?

[@makerunit]

8x3mm Neodymium magnet 😊

[@TaiwaneseDude1]

@@makerunit couldn't find 8*3, can 8*2 work?

[@makerunit]

@@TaiwaneseDude1 yeah as long as the diameter is 8 it should probably work, but you can either print a tiny 1mm spacer or add some extra glue in the pocket to get it as close to the edge as possible, for best magnet grip

[@jamesjohnson5700]

I have that 3d printer how can I make a case?

[@makerunit]

Awesome! It’s a great printer 😁 mine is slightly upgraded with an E3D Hemera direct drive extruder and a SKR E3 Mini v2 Mainboard!

[@jamesjohnson5700]

@@makerunit oh ok so like if I wanted to make one where would I start?

[@makerunit]

@@jamesjohnson5700 the most important part before starting is to make sure all your printer axis are calibrated correctly. So the holes will align properly. Look up a video on printer calibration. Personally I like to use a 100x100x100 calibration instead of the tiny 20x20x20 cube piece to get the most accurate readings with my digital calipers. Then it’s just a matter of starting to print. I recommend using a brim and making sure you get good layer adhesion as some larger parts often tend to warp if the layers dont stick well enough.

[@jamesjohnson5700]

@@makerunit ok Might have to take it apart put it back together just to make sure

[@tinogames7157]

Do you know how much it weighs?

[@makerunit]

I don’t have the exact weight of the plastic unfortunately, but say approximately 2.5-3 full spools (kg) for all the parts in total (given that no prints fail).

[@國際粵語同胞]

哈哈哈哈 用絲襪套上去防塵 。。。。。🤣🤣🤣🤣 厲害 厲害~！！

[@makerunit]

Hahah yup! 🤣

[@theeagle414]

You my friend are going to change the world😍 Elon musk aint got shit on you

[@makerunit]

Hahah thanks man! 😍

[@SeeminglyHopeless]

Could you print this with an Ender 3 Pro?

[@makerunit]

Unfortunately you’ll need at least 300x300x300 print volume to print this due to the size of the parts. It’s theoretically possible but you’d have to manually split the models and glue them then…

[@Colqsillo]

Hello, were you able to do it on the ender 3?

[@HawkEM2]

How much filament did it use, or at least an estimate in KG

[@makerunit]

Approximately two KGs given that all prints go as planned 🙂

[@HawkEM2]

@@makerunit thanks, I plan on doing this in the future so I wanted to know how much filament I need, I'll buy 3kg for the mistakes, and also, is there a way to use an ATX PSU? I don't really mind it sticking out the window or anything

[@makerunit]

@@HawkEM2 unfortunately there’s no way to use an ATX psu on this case in the current design. At least not without completely removing the front intake fan as it would take up too much space with all the cables etc… also the holes are only designed for SFX psu’s at the moment.

[@HawkEM2]

@@makerunit alright, I'll buy an SFX PSU then, they're quite a lot more than ATX it seems

[@makerunit]

@@HawkEM2 they are a little more expensive but on the other hand they mostly modular and almost always rated Gold or better, which often makes them less noisy and very efficient. If you compare a modular gold ATX to a modular gold SFX the prices aren’t that much different. But yeah there are definitely some cheaper ATX (bronze or white) at a significantly lower price. The good thing is if you ever change case. You can still use the SFX psu in most ATX cases. But not the other way around.

[@Noobmaster-yc2pf]

How much will it cost for someone to make one like the corsair one?

[@makerunit]

Which specific model do you have in mind? Are you thinking like to design a similar or simply just material usage?

[@Noobmaster-yc2pf]

@@makerunit I was thinking about designing one that's like the i300 make it easy for anyone to build in it.

[@makerunit]

@@Noobmaster-yc2pf I have thought about creating something tower style like that, not exactly that look but a similar setup. Might be fun a future project.

[@biosetya6913]

please make a thin pc case

[@makerunit]

I’m thinking about it! It’s on my future to-do list! 👌😉

[@biosetya6913]

@@makerunit yes i see your previous design always cube. it would be more interesting to make a thin one too, but still with an external gpu 😁

[@makerunit]

@@biosetya6913 yeah you mean where the GPU and Motherboard are side by side laying flat right? 👍

[@biosetya6913]

@@makerunit Yes, like that. Then put the power supply on the right side of the motherboard 😁

[@makerunit]

@@biosetya6913 kind of like NFC S4 for example. I’ve thought about trying something like that, but with SFX psu but something that’s backpack friendly and rigid for travelling

[@ameliabuns4058]

How much did this cost?

[@makerunit]

Approximately 2 full spools of 1 kg each is what I used. So really depends on what brand filament you use 😊

[@國際粵語同胞]

機箱用塑膠的 散熱不好吧

[@makerunit]

This case is printed in PETG, the airflow is pretty good and no issues at all with the heat 😊

[@unrealbasic1612]

Seems over sized except does allow for a lot of options but with there being no option for ATX PSU seems pointless.

[@makerunit]

That’s a fair comment, it was designed around what parts I had available at that time. I’m considering making something to support normal atx boards and atx psu sometime in the future. 😊 I’ll keep this in mind for my next «big» built

[@vensroofcat6415]

Respect for the engineering and design. But the looks close up, surface quality only a mother could love. No offence, it's just the material. Add filler or something? You can make a decent mATX case cutting open an old 5$ case with Dremel. Drill the rivets, cut the steel. Improvised side panels might be needed. Some sanding, decent spray paint, done. Silverstone fan filters if needed. Depending on case 19..22 liters mATX are possible with air cooling. Rear fan intake (flip CPU cooler respectively), another intake fan below GPU. Some holes, cooling done. Flip the whole case (PSU exhaust rotated to side, easier with rewired PSU), you can put it right on desk, zero spacing.

[@makerunit]

I guess it’s a good thing that I’m it’s mother (father) then. I think it works great, temperatures stay steady, even now I recently upgraded to a 10900k in the same build, still only peaking 70 at the CPU, around the same at the GPU, sure the finish could have been better but it all comes down to what I want out of the project. Some projects I may want to use some pre fabricated panels but for me I really like when as much of the case as possible is made myself and that’s kind of the charm of it. If I was to sell something like this of course I’d want a better finish but for now I have no intention of selling my cases also therefore I share my files for free.

[@vensroofcat6415]

@@makerunit Sure, it's entertaining and challenging. DIY hobby, new creation. The time invested to make everything fit right, some probable test prints, mishaps and what not, respect. You did it well. I'm interested in all ideas regarding compact cases and tech development in general, but not that close with 3D printing in particular. So I couldn't make suggestions regarding materials and finishing. But from my own DIY trials I would say that finishing and fine detail is like 50% of the result. Kind of unfair and also subjectively of course and more so for the one just watching, but that's how it seems to be. glhf

[@makerunit]

@@vensroofcat6415 I’ll do my best to improve over the next years. 😊

[@zhujuefen-so9ue]

very good！

[@makerunit]

Thank you!

[@dogukanhd838]

Can atx psu be installed?

[@makerunit]

Unfortunately not. I’m sorry.

[@oostersam30]

Is it full atx psu?

[@makerunit]

Unfortunately only SFX PSU 😊

[@schnitzelsamy]

Cool

[@makerunit]

Thanks!

[@Miota150]

Shouldve made one with a ATX psu

[@makerunit]

You’re right. I’m always working on new models though so I hope to get around to do more mATX as well 😊

[@aone5361]

What size of this case?? (L x W x H)

[@makerunit]

L: 382mm, W: 235mm, H: 320mm (+ 15mm feet)

[@aone5361]

@@makerunit thanks

[@unknownpresident]

80 hours .. and how much for the 3d printer and plc and nosel Looks n feels like a bread 🍞 shelf in a supermarket .

[@makerunit]

But remember like 79 of those 80 hours are AFK hours, so technically like really minutes starting and ending each print. I have never seen this for sale in the bread shelf in a supermarket but would be cool though! 😉

[@國際粵語同胞]

都是有錢人的玩意 😆😆😆😆😆

[@makerunit]

I mean some parts are expensive but overall it’s a mid-range system in my opinion. 😅

[@vgk12345]

80 hours printing time 😂 what the actuall fuck. I could make one in wood in about 2 hours. Seems like a huge waste of time.

[@makerunit]

But Vegard, you won’t have to sit down with popcorn and watch the print go for 80 hours straight, unless you really want to though. Usually people would let it run in the background while doing other stuff so technically it wouldn’t be 80 working hours. I’d love to see an exact copy in wood though please make it. 👍😊

[@國際粵語同胞]

都是有錢人的玩具 我表示中國工資買不起

[@makerunit]

Really? I have noe clue and I’m curious, what is the average salary for a «normal» job in China?

[@國際粵語同胞]

@@makerunit 普通工作平均 3000~4000RMB 保安 輔警 服務員 便利店員 廚房 文員 街道居委 地鐵工作人員 停車場管理員

[@國際粵語同胞]

@@makerunit 中國廣州大部分工作 平均工資 4000RMB

[@國際粵語同胞]

@@makerunit 在中國購買 （CPU i91100）價格3200RMB 購買(GPU GTX 1650）價格 2000RMB

[@國際粵語同胞]

@@makerunit 中國工資 購買一塊GPU 要一個月 不吃飯 購買一塊CPU 要一個月不吃飯 購買一個主板 半個月不吃飯 購買一個顯示器 半個月不吃飯 購買一台iPhone新手機 幾個月不吃飯