3D printed RC Lockheed C-130 Hercules

[@adrianfichardt9082]

Libor, did you use a 2s 2200mah battery and where did it balance? Did you have to use the battery tray insert and have the battery all the way forward?

[@libor-vitek]

Frankly speaking, you can use whatever battery you wish and place it wherever you wish. But resulting center of gravity must be between those two pins on bottom side of the wing (I mean those pins which are located next to the yellow nacelle fbi.cults3d.com/uploaders/12943812/illustration-file/98923638-1dc3-4334-9f6e-8b3d3e6f85c4/MidiHercInstr08.jpg ) 😊 Just a note, from total weight perspective is the best to have the battery as in front as possible, which on the other hand might mean lower battery capacity. It's up to you my friend.

[@danielrcrawford7973]

where can you get the printed instructions

[@libor-vitek]

If you mean instructions for 3D printing, they are at the bottom of this page: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-32-scale-c-130-hercules-rc-model-for-vase-mode-printing

[@Mona8519]

Sorry i have to ask! How did u Print the Nosewheels? That are not the Wheesl from the original file.

[@libor-vitek]

Hi, nose wheels are not printed, but bought off the shelf 😉 www.kavanrc.com/en/item/kolo-penove-25mm-1-0-148999 as well as main wheels: www.kavanrc.com/en/item/kolo-penove-38mm-1-5-149001

[@Mona8519]

@@libor-vitek thank you.

[@Spunge1984]

Hi Libor, I've taken the plunge and started to print this today myself after being inspired by your videos. Thank you for all you've done. I have a question. What nozzle did you use for all of the prints? Was is .4mm with Lw-pla? Also, how did you get the gaps in the fuselage 1 model at the very start of this vid? Did you cut them out yourself? The base on mine has come out completely filled in....

[@libor-vitek]

Hi James, thanks a lot for your comment and congrats to taking the plunge 🙂👍 I was using 0,4 mm nozzle for all, also for LW-PLA. Before using my brand of LW-PLA (particularly PolyLight 1.0 by 3DLabPrint) I spent quite some time with calibration of slicer. I ended with slicer setup with nozzle temp. 240°C, flow rate 0,6 and printing speed 60 mm/s. Such setup gives vase wall width 0,55 mm, which is in range recommended by 3DLabPrint for their PolyLight 1.0 filament. Regarding the gaps you mentioned, I am not that much sure which gaps you mean. Do you mean the "notch" at the top/back part of Fuselage1 (used for centering "nose" on top/front part of Fuselage2)?

[@Spunge1984]

@libor-vitek this is amazing info, thank you so much! The gaps I'm referring to are on fuselage 1 (cockpit and nose). Basically, the base layers when printing are solid with no gaps in them at all, just a completely solid circle. On your print, these have gaps in, one of those you cut out a notch to put the wire through for the wheel steering?

[@libor-vitek]

@@Spunge1984 Oh, as the gaps you mean the free inner spaces at the base of Fuselage01 part, if I am not wrong. Please check this video, hopefully it will be helpful for you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXOrhaWuZ8h5q7M

[@Spunge1984]

Morning Libor, hope you're well and progressing well. I've a question on the prop's you're using. What size are they. Apologies if this is listed somewhere on one of your videos, however i've looked through them and can't find anything.

[@libor-vitek]

@@Spunge1984 Hi James, author of this 3D model offers props for 3D printing (STL files starting with syntax "Propeller" in file name), nevertheless I did not want to risk a damage of 3D printed props during flight (which might cause crash), so I bought HQProp 5x4x6 Light Grey www.6sfull.cz/hqprop-5x4x6-light-grey/ Originally I wanted to get some 4-blade 5" props, but it was tricky to find such props to me, but I liked the look of 6-blade ones, so I ordered those 😉

[@Xenex001]

Cool