3D Printed Threads - Fusion 360

This is a print test for bolt threads created and modified in Fusion 360.
I needed a more consistent way to add threads to my projects - I used these test prints to play around with altering the standard threads generated in Fusion 360 to make them more 3D printer friendly.
All the required files to make your own are available for download.
Printables
www.printables...
Thangs
thangs.com/fil...
Happy printing!
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== Credits ==
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[@kenpoist7]

A chamfer on the threaded end will remove the "elephant foot" and ease the starting of the engagement between the bolt and the nut.

[@MrJoerT]

I use this same method for my threads, but I also like to put a filet on the thread at the start of it, because that part usually ends up being really thin and pointy, and hard to print. The filet also seems to help with the initial engagement of the thread.

[@3DPrinty]

Excellent tip! I'll be certain to try it out on my next threaded design - and when I rework the designs mentioned in this video.

[@msacco]

This was such a great video, thank you so much for that! :)

[@3DPrinty]

Thanks, happy to share the hobby!

[@AERuffy]

Really good video. I'm currently dealing with giant threaded parts (14" diameter) The thread modeling tool doesn't have coarse enough threads for me (Iso metric 360mm is the choice I went with) We'll see how it goes.

[@3DPrinty]

Good luck! In that case, I'd probably scale the model down, apply the threads and any offsets I want, then scale the object back up. But I've never molded threads quite that large before! Keep in mind that the thread tool WILL resize the diameter of the cylinder surface you're threading if you're not being careful. I've had that happen to me once. Nasty surprise on a large print.

[@RixtronixLAB]

Nice info, thank you for sharing it :)

[@suburbansamurai3560]

Wow Fusion 360? That's a pricey meatball! The interface looks very user friendly, though.

[@3DPrinty]

It’s quite expensive, unfortunately. If you plan to use it only as a hobbyist, there is a free non-commercial license. but there’s no guarantee that’ll be offered forever. www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal

[@MLFranklin]

Very cool.

[@steffenlaursen9612]

Great video thanks. How do you show the parts cut in half like in the video?

[@3DPrinty]

I love that trick - it's the "Section Analysis" tool under the "Inspect" menu. This allows you to select a plane to slice through the model without actually altering it. Once you use it, this special view is saved in the "Analysis" folder in the document tree. From here you can easily switch between multiple different views, or turn off the view entirely and return to seeing the full model. I usually have at least 2 Section Analysis views in every model I make - slicing the front and side. For more complex models, I may have many more.

[@jamescullins2709]

Great video! You mentioned that if you scale up the nut and bolt they would screw on easier, My question is if I drew the male and female threads at say half of the required value then scale it up in the slicer would that make is smoother than if I just printed it 1:1 scale? I know your method would be the proper way... but in a pinch, would it work? Thank you

[@3DPrinty]

Excellent question! If you model an M3 bolt in an M3 hole, scale it 200%, and compare the scaled clearance to that of a default M6 bolt in an M6 hole, you DO gain some additional clearance. But the amount of clearance is fairly small and depends on the scaling factor. Because the result isn't very predictable, I'd rather define my own manual clearance. So yes, you absolutely can do it that way! you'll still need to do some testing to determine what scale results in what clearance per standard bolt size. You'll also have sharper threads, which I don't find particularly helpful in a 3D printed object.

[@jamescullins2709]

@@3DPrinty Thinks, I agree tweaking the design is the best.

[@flywithpascal.]

Can you please do a video about your printer? What is this? It looks DIY & very solid - interesting

[@3DPrinty]

That printer is crazy solid - it's a Daedalus by Project R3D. I can't claim any credit for building or designing it myself - sorry. My little print farm is currently a Daedalus, Sidewinder X1, Prusa MK3, Prusa MK3s, and most recently an Elagoo Mars Pro. The Daedalus was perfect experimenting with filming time lapses - the core XY setup meant I could just film the process without worrying about the print moving all over the place like in an i3 layout (or taking pictures only on a per-layer basis). If I can think of something interesting to say about my setup, I'll make a video about it sometime! Would a comparison video of these extremely different printers be worth watching? To learn more about the Daedalus, check out 3D Printing Nerd's videos about his Daedalus and the RailCore printers that preceded it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/emjainqXiah8jZo kzbin.info/aero/PLKLBL4JgbOp48KrrMQonz469QKC0tnbLw

[@dizzolve]

can you design a thread gauge for imperial and metric male and female threads? Everyone could use one of those

[@Adrian-sb1lq]

Great video👍

[@3DPrinty]

Thanks!

[@tareshgupta1095]

do a video on how to print small sized nuts and bolt for example 10-32 nuts

[@birkandemir2355]

what is your layer height? You use 0.2 mm or 0.12 mm ?

[@3DPrinty]

These were printed with 0.2mm layer heights - It's pretty much my standard. Happy printing!

[@rmriddler]

I tried printing the medium rolling box but the end wont screw on I tried sanding them to only get about half way. I'm very new to this hobby. should I just scale up the box by 25%-50% to get the threads to work? or is it a setting I am missing on my slicer?

[@3DPrinty]

Threads can be tricky. Usually it's an issue with extrusion consistency. Before reprinting anything, I'd try to slowly screw and unscrew the cap as far as it will go. This should wear off any small printing blobs that can be causing the trouble. If that doesn't work, I'd try reprinting the cap scaled down slightly in ONLY the X and Y directions. This should be possible in most slicers with asymmetric scaling. Some slicers have a setting called "Horizontal expansion" or "X/Y compensation" that is specifically used for these situations, although I've never had to use it myself. Here's a video by Chuck that discusses this in Cura: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4bInX-Qq6mYorc

[@rmriddler]

@@3DPrinty Thank you so much. I've had so many issues with what could be heat creep but it only happens on complicated builds like the Tardis box body, yet when I print simple organizers for my dewalt storage organizer they come out fine. I have a Creality 5 pro with a bed leveler from creality, and I have used there slicer as well as a PursaSlicer with a setting file for creality. I'm kinda learning as I go. your video's are an inspiration.

[@3DPrinty]

Yup, we're all learning as we go. If you aren't following Chuck already, many of his videos focus on Creality printers and may prove extra helpful. Good luck!

[@hogarthheathan]

is there a tutorial on how to decrease the bolt nut thread clearance, i think this is the solution to my problems

[@3DPrinty]

You can use this technique to decrease the clearance as well. Just use a positive offset instead of a negative one.

[@hogarthheathan]

@@3DPrinty my initial comment got lost in translation. What I mean is do you have a tutorial for this, this was hard to follow for fusion 360 noobs.

[@3DPrinty]

Sorry, I don't have anything that breaks it down more than this video already does. I recommend following along step-by-step with the part where I use the Press/Pull Tool (shortcut Q) to push the thread surface in a bit.

[@RockCYP]

Bolt A and nut A are narrow for me (prusa mk3s) so far

[@3DPrinty]

That was quick. You must've started printing within hours of the video going live. Were you able to get higher clearance bolts to work? And would the A bolt and nut loosen up if forced (using a wrench)?

[@RockCYP]

@@3DPrinty yeah you are correct :) so the Bolt A needed a lot of force (by hand - could have used wrench) but after a few turns it got easier but its still tight. Bolt/Nut B has much better clearance. I will keep you posted when i print the rest