3D Printing in the Classoom: MakerBot, Cube, Afinia, Solidoodle, Robo R1

[@nannerpuss9430]

This is literally the best teacher ever. This would have been an AWESOME way to learn when I was still in school! I am currently investing in the Robo 3D R1. I've heard it is an amazing printer, though it has its flaws. For the money, it is a must-have.

[@kasso187]

Wish I had a teacher like you in my school days. You have some cool teaching concepts!

[@GittinBizy]

Great video! Helped me with my decision thanks!

[@MatthewGudenius]

Be aware that the Robo 3D isn't perfect, as I will point out in my next video. Main issue I have had is pretty consistent banding/ribbing, where layers will be just barely wider at regular intervals up the model along the Z-axis. It doesn't generally hurt the functionality of the models, but it is a visible annoyance (more noticeable with some types/colors of filament than others) Another printer I strongly considered but didn't talk about in this video is the SeeMeCNC Orion delta printer -- that one is supposed to have very high quality prints, and can do them faster. It works with delta tech (extruder being lifted and moved using triangulation methods above a cylindrical print envelope) instead of this more cartesian reprap style that all of the ones in the above video use. Man reason I didn't get it was due to a narrow build envelope (can build fairly tall, but only within a 6" diameter or about 4" square area; good for things like vases, figurines, and other vertical/upright designs)

[@GittinBizy]

Barnacules here on KZbin also mentioned that issue. He noticed that there Isn't any supports on the top of the z-axis rods allowing them to flex. You can print these supports off (www.thingiverse.com/thing:278484) and it should help. I've done a lot of research as well about 3d printers, and the price to build volume on the robo is unmatched.

[@MatthewGudenius]

David Cox In my case, the banding/ribbing wasn't due to moving rods (which is what the supports help -- that's more for "z-wobble"); it was due to imperial/SAE measurements being used instead of metric, causing rounding errors as it moves up the threads. This issue has since been fixed by RoBo in their newer models, which use metric threading... including mine, BUT the firmware that came on my machine was for the older threads; after updating firmware, the banding problem went away

[@leshall4063]

Matthew, I thoroughly enjoyed your printer comparison and I am quite pleased that you chose the ROBO 3D R1 model. That's the same model I chose and I have had mostly good results with it. Please visit the forum on the site and register then go to the ShoutBox where you can meet Mike Kelley. He is a one man ROBO 3D R1 customer service and tech support team. I don't know why they don't hire him, but anyway a sharp person like yourself will enjoy chatting with Mike about your Robo. I gutted my ROBO! It has overheating and reliability issues and after about five months of operation I was looking at a good $150 to bring it back to stock working condition. Long story short I decided to redesign the electronics completely which I have the skills to do and I have just received almost all of the parts required to do just that. The system will be unique in that it is a distributed approach with approximately ten ATtiny85 arduino chips at $1.75 each instead of one Arduino board at a much higher price. It's a simpler, less expensive approach with some novel ideas and also a spinoff of the audio control system I devised turned out to be the notion of audio and image encoding of STL files which should greatly impact the storage and distribution of 3D model files. I'd love to discuss all this stuff with you, please send me an email if you are interested. [e-mail] Les

[@MatthewGudenius]

Thanks for the feedback, Les... I got this more as a plug-and-play option rather than a tinkering/engineering project (which I am capable of, but far too entrenched in both teaching and in developing some educational technology software to have time for that), so I'm hoping it will hold out. So far, there is ONE issue I have had pretty consistently: Z-banding. On just about every print, there will be ever-so-slightly wider layers at regular intervals along the Z-axis. I have brought this up on the Robo forums and continue to investigate how to try to solve this issue (it's subtle, but annoying) Another issue I just ran into for the first time today is that there are black spots/smudges/goop that appeared in a print (maybe the 12th or 13th print I have done so far on it) -- going to post photos of this on the forum, as well, but as I am researching the issue it looks like it could be due to old filament gooping onto the hot end and then overheating/burning (I hope this is the case, because my first thought is that the hot end was actually melting some of the black plastic components holding it in place! I hope that is not the case.)

[@MatthewGudenius]

Also, tell me more about this audio/image encoding of STL. That sounds interesting (I haven't worked with arduino, and in fact try to avoid the DIY electronics unless I get really bored or motivated and have plenty of time. My last project was building a theremin into an Atari 2600 case, and now have a plan of modding it with CV-to-MIDI outputs)

[@leshall4063]

Matthew Gudenius Matthew, I think the Z-banding is caused by the tops of the Z-rods not being secured. When they are not secured they wobble and the print head kind of makes a slight trapezoid of them on either side, and also leans them front and back, and angles in between also (or so I am thinking). A quick search on Thingiverse will yeild you a fix you can print to fix that. I never did but wish I had now.

[@leshall4063]

Matthew Gudenius Matthew, the concept behind the alternate STL file types is simple. Take a QR code and make it large enough to contain a properly optimized STL file's worth of data. The file now exists in image format so you can now print it on a magazine page or the back of a cereal box or a junkmail flyer. Same with the audio code if you pack it right or use a lossless file format, then any audio storage or transmission method can contain a print description. The added bonus of these formats is that they can be transmitted with low-tech equipment like the feature phones of America's yesterday and Africa's today. THAT particular fact opens up a world of economic possibilities for the impoverished billions of the world. I am attempting to reach out to them now. I am going to send an SMS lifeline to someone somewhere in the world, just as soon as I can figure out an SMS phone number for such a person. Who knows what will happen then? Les

[@MikeLikesMaking]

Matthew Gudenius The longevity of the printer should be on par with any out there, especially with the latest sets of improvements from RoBo. Les had a few issues with his august printer, but we've gotten them sorted out. The ribbing/banding issue is a bit tricky and takes some times adjusting the helical couplers. This is also a problem for the printrbot metal, or really any that uses a helical coupler. If you work with Robo3d customer support they should help get you squared away. Try a 1-on-1 with them. The black spots might be old filament. I use a brass bristle brush to clean off my hot nozzle. Just be sure filament isn't leaking out the top of the heater block. That can sometimes have the same symptoms as what you're saying. To plug the fact that the RoBo3D isn't enclosed I designed this enclosure for it: www.printedsolid.com/shop/3dprinters/r3dhouse/ It'll protect prints from curious kids, as well as protect curious kids from dangerous parts. Further it'll trap in heat if you ever want to work with Nylon, would also help with ABS but you said that's a non-option in a school. If you can make a video for it I could offer you a decent discount :)

[@giproact]

I bought mine for 900 with shipping and everything on B and H photo, they had the best option for ''canada shipping''. I used the same categories to chose this printer and you know its great!!! Pretty much plug and play a little of calibration but its not hard at all. You know this is the best thing in the world that you can buy for 800$.

[@loutt79]

If I was you I would go for the solidoodle 3. Ir has an 8 by 8 by 8 print volume and prints ABS and PLA. You can choose to have the enclosed one with heated bed and it works really well if you have the right settings. Only negative thing is that it does have to be connected to a computer. The pric is about 800$ I believe. Good luck becoming a of the maker

[@MatthewGudenius]

I considered Solidoodle 4 (essentially same thing as the 3, but cheaper) and almost bought one for only $500 including 2 spools of filament. However, I had heard it can be a bit more fiddly to calibrate and maintain, which was the final deciding factor for why I didn't get one.

[@SwissAmbush]

Which is the quietest? I have a Robo and it is LOUD

[@MatthewGudenius]

Yes. yes, it is. I wouldn't say "quiet" is the most important feature, but it's something to consider (especially for use in a classroom) I imagine any of the ones that have an enclosed casing are going to be quieter

[@mandudehahaha]

why not um2?

[@MatthewGudenius]

Because UM2 is in the same category as MakerBot: TOO EXPENSIVE ($2500) I've heard good things about it, quality-wise, but wanted to limit my search to budget-friendly ones ($1300 or less)... The only reason I included MakerBot is because it is the biggest "brand name" and I wanted to show how overpriced it is, and that there are a lot more affordable alternatives....

[@mandudehahaha]

Matthew Gudenius That's understandable, i am waiting for my um2 right now, subtotal was 1,925 EUR, then taxes will come on top of that. I can't wait to get it. The robo3D seems to work real nice tho :) I like what you are doing with your students, wish i could take your classes!

[@JonnyInfinite]

Your students do coding? Do you use the Raspberry Pi for that? The new one is credit card sized, so can be used for even more projects...

[@MatthewGudenius]

Have not used the Raspberry Pi yet (mostly stuff like Scratch), but curious and have looked into it... maybe in conjunction with some of these 3D printing prototypes...

[@JonnyInfinite]

Matthew Gudenius well the Pi was basically made for education purposes by educators to be an inexpensive computer capable of many, many different functions; from coding, to building a robot, to near space ballooning....just about anything you need. Check out raspberrypi.org for more info

[@MatthewGudenius]

***** Yeah, I've checked it out... if I was still teaching tech / computer classes like I used to (CAD, robotics, etc.), I'd definitely jump on board. However, as a regular multi-subject classroom teacher, it leaves little time (outside of addressing the standards) to do these sorts of enrichment activities. I basically have about one hour per week (when some of the students have band, and I'm having the others do an #inventionhour ) I looked into Pi for our invention hour, but one drawback was I saw a breakdown showing how the price of it is not REALLY the price of it (you need a bunch of other components to really make it work)

[@videblu]

I'd say advertised print quality is a sham. It is 100% marketing. Heck, even Makerbot is mechanically capable of 20 micron layers, and there are likely cheaper printers that with a small amount of tinkering and calibration could print smaller than 100um.

[@MatthewGudenius]

+Videblu Regardless of whether it is a sham or not, I'd say it's not the most important thing in the world. Much less important, for what I do anyway, than what I originally thought. In fact, I run nearly 100% of my prints at "low" quality (300 micron layers, 12% fill pattern) now to save filament and (especially) time...