3D printing with Verbatim Polypropylene (PP)

[@DJSolitone]

Excellent video. Probably the best in depth look at an exotic 3D printing material I've seen around.

[@MakerFarmNL]

Good video! Thanks for taking the time to discuss this plastic for 3D printing. You have made it rather clear that this is not an easy material to print with. I think most problems might be due to the high viscosity / elasticity during printing, made clear in your close-ups of the benchy. This also explains why lower speeds work better. Nevertheless you have realized good results! Thanks for the info!

[@uptimefab7412]

Huib, thanks for stopping by. For this printer a bit more patience is needed when printing PP, but for smaller parts the print times are quite acceptable. Cheers, Robin

[@TwHrmns]

Thank you for video and your explanations about modeling bending parts.

[@akust]

super informative and comprehensible! Thank you very much.

[@002-b9s]

This material is also used for contact lens boxes and baby bottles, of course the quality of the filament should be proven for use in this application. It give lots of possibilities for medical domains also. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@omnitron]

Great info thank you mate. I was set up my machine on it and works very good. Any adjustments for warping?

[@stefanguiton]

Excellent

[@sethtempel8326]

Thanks for putting this review out here. How many bends can you get out of the hinges until it breaks?

[@joemulkerins5250]

Great video. I assume you are an engineer :). Just a quick tip. Instead of moving the micro switch to accommodate the 3mm plate you could maybe have lowered the bed by tightening the springs/adjustment knobs. Just thought I would mention. Of course this depends on the room available etc etc. I found this out the hard way 😄. Excellent video! I will be attempting to produce pp filament with aid of information from this video. Thank you.

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi Joe, it is indeed more work to print an offset tool to get the extra 3mm for use with a glass plate, but since I mostly print without the glass plate I wanted to lower the changeover time. Now I can directly start printing when I place the shim and the glass plate. But every method has its pros and cons, this is just my personal preference. I hope you can get the PP printing to work. Let me know if there are any issues, Good luck! Robin

[@zahragallagher4798]

Is the type of additive manufacturing you used material extrusion?

[@ariewijaya1679]

how do you deal with warping issue with pp?

[@Wingnut353]

I think it would be interesting if it were possible to combine PLA for the part structure + PP for hinges etc... the cost of dual filament printers has come down a so it's probably worth experimenting with.

[@rt_w1456]

If someone had a printer that could print two filaments at once and figured out settings that could be pretty cool!

[@kev4241]

did I miss the part where all the settings in Cura is shown?

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi, the settings for the slicer are not down in the video, I just talk through the settings I tested. (Not using cura but flashpoint.)

[@fadial-marei6397]

Thanks for you....What parameters did you use for printing with pp filament? Nozzle... Bed... Fan.... Speed... Infill... Sheel....

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi Fadi, I used a 0.4mm nozzle, 220 degr C, bed 80 degr C, 140 micron layer height, 30 mm/sec, infill is not critical for cosmetic quality. 3 shells which I think is beneficial, at least on my printer. I have also made some notes on print settings in the article linked in the description. Note that these settings are not the best settings per se, but just the ones that I have tested and worked for me.

[@crismo7753]

Nice work! Is PP also weather-resistant (and also UV-resistant) ? If yes, how long(good) ? What other elastic or semielastic filaments are weather (and also UV-resistant) resistant ?

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi Cris, PP does not have very good UV resistance so prolonged outdoor use could affect the durability of the hinge and the overall part.

[@seangholland3055]

Nice work and website.

[@denisalmosnino461]

Hello, I like to print some new silent blocks for my and I think it's the must appropriate material for this application, don't you think? Do you think I can print massive parts with this material? And do you think it will be soft enough to absorb vibrations and strong enough to link wheels to chassis?

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi Denis, thanks for commenting. I think this material is not very suitable for silent blocks. A rubber-like material would be more suited for this application. You could try TPU. Ninjaflex is based on this, but the are also similar materials from other manufacturers. Robin

[@achillesmjb]

To remove completed print is it better to wait for cool down? Thx.

[@uptimefab7412]

Yes, I believe it is best to wait for the print to have cooled down to avoid deformation, but I am not sure if it is super critical, if it is still a bit warm to the touch. I typically don't wait for it to fully reach room temperature.

[@joemulkerins5250]

Thank you very much.

[@OnyxMP312]

How do your boxes hold up to steam sterilization in the dish washer?

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi Ryden, Thanks for your question (challenge). Since the maximum temperature of my dishwasher is only 70 degrees C, I submerged a box in boiling water for a couple of minutes. Directly after pulling the part out it was noticeably more flexible, but even when applying a reasonable amount of force the part did not show any plastic deformation. I did notice some condensation in the hollow areas of the infill, indicating the part is not completely watertight. If you are using parts in these kind of harsh conditions, using 100% infill might help to overcome this, but that has it's own drawbacks, like increased print time. Cheers, Robin

[@movax20h]

How well it resists hot water?

[@kennylew5208]

can i know your 3d showing is use what sofeware?

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi I am (mostly) using Flashprint for this 3D printer.

[@choschiba]

Thank you for sharing. I don't own an enclosed printer. So I might not be able to print that material.

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi Cat, on an open printer it would indeed most likely lead to a lot of warping issues.... A homemade cover might help, but that is far from ideal.

[@yuvashankar7820]

Sir please lern the cnc router machine manufacturing

[@chilla3112]

verz nice video!

[@uptimefab7412]

Thanks!

[@ben-3d]

What 3d design software did you used ?

[@uptimefab7412]

Fusion 360, which is free to use for hobbyists and startups with a revenue of under $100.000. If you sign up you get a free 1 year licence, which can be extended indefinitely for free (or until the terms change). And no, I do not have any affiliation with Autodesk:) Robin

[@habiks]

just move the bed up until the nozzle touches the tape and type G92 Z0

[@uptimefab7412]

Hi, thanks for the tip! As far as I am aware entering G-code directly (MDI mode) doesn't work with Flashprint, but it would work with other slicers like repetier. If there is an option to do this in Flashprint please let me know! Robin

[@TalpaDK]

I normally just modify the starting g-code in the slicer software to implement the offset for level height. (Actually z=0 is mechanically set slightly below the print surface, a lot easier to tune the z-offset by 0.05mm in software than moving my end stop switch :)

[@thebeststooge]

Everyone said it was a nightmare to print with.

[@sham1234567891]

Unfortunately the sound is basically low.

[@Notogenocide]

Printing pp products is not applicable for mass production,, expensive

[@TaigiTWeseDiplomat--Formosan]

: )