Creality CR-10s Pro Unboxing, Build, Overview, and First Print

[@DDDarkz]

Found 3 loose screws and 3 washers around the box after installation. Glad I watched this video before I installed mine.

[@KetansaCreatesArt]

Hello, can you help me please? I adjusted one side of the bracket to flush it with the acrylic block. Move the block to the other side to find 2mm play. I hold the coupler of the adjusted side and rotate the coupler of other side to flush it with the acrylic block. Exactly like you showed here 13:05. But when I release my hand, they both rotate back to the position where it was. One coupler cannot be adjusted, it reverts back to its previous position. What do I need to do? Is there other screws to adjust? Thank you.

[@frankjm543]

Watched this as I set mine up and ran into the same problems and questions you did along the way haha. Thank you for the video, very helpful.

[@ThomasPalowitchSr]

Nice job Jason. I just got my CR-10S Pro today and your video will save me a lot of time. Thanks,

[@lilsquidgaming39]

I allways use the boden tube fix in all my printers keeps it from spewing out sides if adjusted wrong and forces ptfe tube against hot end so no clogs I love doing this to every creality

[@BobGarrett66]

Did I seriously just watch your entire video thinking, “He’s not doing too bad with this”, and then you didn’t even spend 5 seconds talking about how good/bad the test print was. No way!

[@Jason-yn6oy]

The print was flawless.

[@studioeffects]

@@Jason-yn6oy Then why didn't you show it?

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@studioeffects because we filmed this in the evening and the print takes hours. Since I wasn't going to be in the studio for a few days, and have limited time in the evenings after the store closes to film these videos, we filmed the outro BEFORE kicking off the print for the timelapse. This wasn't a print quality review video anyways and I'm certain you have seen the impressive results on other videos from the cr-10s pro. I do appreciate your skepticism. :)

[@howardthayer7942]

Whatever you review i think yours are the best ones.

[@BlàckÐèàth]

Terribly disappointed that after all that you didn't show us a close up of the test print!

[@studioeffects]

Yes, I feel the same way.

[@kevinschilling6813]

I just got mine up and running. But as I was assembling mine I found screws on the Z axis as well. They do need to be snugged up to get the leveling right. Good job on the video.. Thanks..

[@playhard23]

Great video. Would like to see a "updating firmware " video 🙂

[@3e8light]

I had an extra wire connection next to the ribbon. Your video or the directions did not say what to do with it. It took some time but I found a spot for it inside where the x-motor was. This helped get the x-motor to the correct location but my y motor is not lining up the way it should. I wish you showed what to do if the measuring did not work as mine is not.

[@The15091Bravo]

Thanks for the vid. When I go to level my x gantry and wind the lead screw to bring the side that is slightly higher down to be level, the other lead screw moves down as well despite me holding onto it? Therefore I cant get it level. That doesnt seem to happen to you in the vid. Any advice??

[@bradenwingfield3202]

just got mine.. same problem

[@AEQEA]

I’m not sure I’ve seen your videos before but I liked this one right away because it doesn’t seem like you’re drunk.

[@michaelellis5024]

Great video - it really helped me out. The small threaded screws that you mention at around 22:17 'coming loose' were also missing when I received my CR-10S Pro. I found them in the box and in my opinion I don't think they were ever installed. The odds are against these exact same screws backing out in shipment after being tightened down with lock-washers. It's almost like they missed a step during assembly and just tossed the screws and lock-washers into the box. If you hadn't mentioned these screws in your video I probably would have been terribly annoyed with the printer before figuring it out.

[@ClayJohnston2k]

Michael Ellis I just unpacked mine and those screws fell out of the area around the extruder. A longer one and shorter one. No idea where they are supposed to go.

[@michaelellis5024]

@@ClayJohnston2k I'm not sure if these are the same screws that were not installed on mine. Both were the same length. If you could post a pic or video maybe someone could help you out. Really you can pretty much just look at all of the assemblies and if you see a hole without a screw in it you can get a pretty good idea about where those screws should be.

[@ClayJohnston2k]

@@michaelellis5024 I found out where they go. The 2 spots to hold the brass fitting on the z-rod on the left side. It was just spinning around and I put these screws in. All better!

[@GENcELL2014]

Looks good, for the spool holder they could have a rectangular hole in the sheet metal base like for the Y/Z assembly and bolt it to the bases aluminium extrusion so the spool holder can mount lower down.

[@onlyvids]

hey,can you do a video for how to dp bed leveling at this printer?

[@lilsquidgaming39]

I can never get mine level without doing it by eye and caliper every time I do it with feeler guages like you guys showed its wayyy to high any ideas end up going to -4.16 just to get it to print

[@fatboy1271]

Thanks for this unboxing! While watching I started doing some investigation on my CR-10S... I noticed that the left Z rod has quite a bit of play in it. The right Z rod is pretty solid, unless I grab the very top and then there's a minimal amount of play. Seems like this should be an easy fix? I threw a level on the X Gantry and saw that it was off. Luckily, before messing with that I also put the level on the bed. Thankfully, they seem parallel and it appears that my table is what's not level :)

[@GeneralKetchup57]

I'm seriously considering buying the CR-10s Pro or the Prusa i3 Mk3 but can't find a compare video. Please make one with your suggestions:)

[@WayneEarls]

Just get the Ender 3 pro. You won't be unhappy.

[@fireslayer26]

Glad I watched your video. I had the same issue with the two tiny bolts next to the extruder. One was missing and in the bottom of the box!

[@Nickc582]

Thank you definitely helped me print my first 3d print on my cr 10s pro

[@grandmomcrafts]

Hi- I just got mine today and the extruder carriage swings freely all over the bar it’s suppose to be level on. Tightening the hex nut or the screws does nothing- what should I do?

[@grandpabrogan]

Thanks for the video. My one just arrived, and although the instruction booklet is probably the best I've ever seen from a Chinese manufacturer, it was still nice to see someone put it together so I can cross-check. Doing a test print now (the card that came with it just had the one model of a Dog). Don't know if it's the corrupt one everyone was talking about with the older CR-10. Oh if I may, what's with the blue disco lights flashing about inside the casing? Anybody know what the party is all about?

[@robertavery8897]

I think the best way to remove the unit from the foam ... set solid foam side down and opened side foam up. Pull off upper piece of foam and then you don’t have unit and frame heading to the floor.

[@icontycon]

Hi there. I've recently bought a CR-10s and when printing a simple model, the display shows the following message: "No filament. Press Yes to feed more filament or No to cancel printing". Thanks!

[@goodgoat3096]

you might have to bend the lever on the switch

[@DR-pb8hx]

I just purchased the this printer. I ran into an issue which I thought you may be able to help with. After I did the test print of the dog. The printer finished and started to level all the corners, in this process, it hit the printed model on its way to the back of the plate. This can't be normal. Any suggestions how to fix this?

[@trajanonerd]

Hello, My X gantry is so off from each other that when I rotate one of the the couplers to align the height, they just rotate back because of the tension. Is there any way to fix this. Still haven't turned on my printer since I think this might be essencial for the following. Thanks for your help

[@sector7offshore]

Sample prints with the toughest filiments like carbon fiber or abs something that may require a change in the extruding nozzle

[@ddelgran]

Wondering what the z-axis detail is on this printer - 50 microns, 100 microns? Thx

[@salim.studio]

bro would you recomend creality cr 10s pro or prusa i3 mk3?

[@JonetoArt]

I want to get it but the 500x500x500 volume one. Would you guys be selling one like that in the future?

[@fsarfino]

No talk of print quality here :( How is the printing on Tpu?

[@cameronbasford8991]

Did you just slice open a already open box?

[@JoseRozua]

Great video! Just a question: I'm considering this one and de BIQUE Thunder. Which one do you thinks gets better printing results? and wich is the most worthy price? Thanks a lot

[@Jason-yn6oy]

I have no experience with "BIQUE" printers, so no comment

[@JoseRozua]

@@Jason-yn6oy sorry, I was meaning "BIQU Thunder". Don't worry I think it's a relatively new brand. And talking about this Creality, I'm looking for a really silent printer, Which step drivers uses this CR10s pro? In your opinion and compared to others, the fans are more or less noisy? I'll have it in my desk so I need something quiet. Worth this the price or is better to go for the standard CR10s? Any other brand or model you recommend? Thank you so much in advance for your answers. You are helping me a lot because I would like to buy a new printer during this weekend sales.

[@maciejajewski]

nice work but a shame you didn't show the print to the camera so we could actually see the results. Was the print bad quality ?

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Actually in the interest of time, we filmed the outro while the timelapse was going, otherwise filming this would have taken 2 evenings. The print was impeccable.

[@jessejohnson5673]

In the interest of whether or not we want to buy it, the Test Print Reveal is a MUST HAVE! Well worth another day IMHO.

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@jessejohnson5673 rather than me showing the print in hand, we could have taken some really up-close shots of it. That would have sufficed. Alternatively all you'll get are xyz cubes so that they can be filmed the same evening. Getting everyone to go back to the studio another evening increases the cost and time-to-release for each video. The primary focus of the video was not to test print quality.

[@Warfalcon]

Few questions as this will probably replace my Ender 3 at some point. You said in the video one of the two settings is used for auto leveling, which one is it? Second what is a G29? You said this is something you add to your gcode so you do not need to auto level each time. How does this work and can you do it with Cura? Thanks and nice video!

[@studioeffects]

I'll echo the other comments. Why didn't you show the test print?

[@collagecrafting4272]

How do I remove the print from the platform? It is super stuck to it and it won't move ! Helllllp please!

[@nyyotam4057]

Super easy: First you remove the printbed using the front clips, and put it safely on a table or on a chair. Then you take the supplied spatula and a hammer (I'm not joking). use the spatula sharpened side showing upwards on the side of the print and apply gentle blows with the hammer to make the spatula work its way under the print, until it pops clean.. OR you go with option B: Get a PEI sheet :-).

[@zachdelancey8892]

Great review! Do you know if the hotend is any different from the one on the standard CR-10/CR-10S?

[@nerys71]

totally brand new hot end and feeder unit. and its a HUGE upgrade.

[@Jason-yn6oy]

The hotend it like an mk8 crossed with a V6. It bolts to the carriage with 2 bolts, like the mk8 did, but it's round like a V6 and take ALMOST V6 nozzles. This is where it is strange, they're V6 nozzles with a shorter thread length.

[@tremorflow3614]

I enjoy your videos! Will this be fine for TPU or does it need some upgrades? any help appreciated

[@owenpatrick874]

Does anyone have the full height of the printer itself? Height without the spool and with? Would really appreciate it! Can't seem to find dimension's anywhere since the print volume's a noted spec too...

[@Jason-yn6oy]

I measured it for you. From the table top to the top rail, 25 1/2". If you include the spool holder, 31 1/2". These are touch measurements. So +- 1/2"

[@owenpatrick874]

@@Jason-yn6oy perfect, thanks!

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@owenpatrick874 no problem. I was at the shop today and took a quick second to measure it as best I could.

[@Michael-yi9vq]

Isnt there a new mainboard inside and arent there TMC on this mobo revision ?

[@Jason-yn6oy]

It's a similar looking board to the creality v2 boards but yes, there are trinamic drivers (unsure which specifically)

[@szetor1]

So is the CR-10S Pro the same as a CR-X, but without dual extrusion, or is it an improvement over both the previous CR-10S and CR-X?

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Silent 256 microstep trinamic drivers and a completely overhauled extruder drive assembly, neither of which were on the cr-x we received. It's also 24v, which the cr-10s was 12. We have a direct comparison video being edited already.

[@nerys71]

same "base plate" as the CRX but brand new TMC based electronics and BRAnd spanking new hot end and feeder assembly. huge upgrade. I am getting NEAR ender 3 print quality from a 334 !!! thats amazing. it really is. upgrade the fans and the machine is so quite you can sleep next to it.

[@digimooses]

Thanks for the great video. Is this an open source printer as is Ender 3 Pro?

[@Carlovfx]

Do you need any glue or spray on the bed or not?

[@keithkamps77]

Hey guys I've had my CR-10S Pro for a little bit now and am experiencing some anomalies, she has stopped mid print several times and has also fully raised the Z access in the middle of several prints causing it to hit the top bar and kept wanting to go making a horrific noise. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening?

[@alexandernagel2200]

I have the same problem 1 week in to my new printer and both times i printed it stopped mid way raised all the way to the top bar , if some one could help that would be great. maybe the guys at 3d printing can help that where i bought the printer

[@keithkamps77]

@@alexandernagel2200 what revision is your firmware? Mine originally had 1.40.0 and I just updated to 1.60.3 and am currently putting the printer through it's paces

[@MrWATCHthisWAY]

I have to agree about these statements about the test dog too. Lol... but you were 100% accurate about the factories deficiencies. Every part you stated was not properly secured. I had to go to my big boy tool chest to get quality tools to support this printer. But to be honest if your going to be printing or manufacturing you will need quality tools to maintain your equipment. You did a great job! You should put together a after market tool supply program for people who are not aware of the quality tools they may need for themselves. Hint, hint! No you spot on with your assessment. Thank you for being there when Creality wasn’t here to support their product. It’s a great printer for the price but be ready to address these deficiencies!

[@kesterbelgrove818]

Why is it that they don't offer WiFi printing or send data though USB at least. I have a Cetus 3D that comes with both USB and WiFi for over a year now. I'd love a larger print area as in CR series, but I'd love easy print features

[@nerys71]

wifi sucks in my opinion though I can see the appeal for it. and you can print over usb already.

[@kesterbelgrove818]

@@nerys71 I thought WiFi was a gimmick and didn't use it for months. But when I used it I loved it. But if the CR series has USB then that's enough for me.

[@willywgb]

Hi Jason Great video. Looks like a very good Printer. You forgot to tell us how the print turned out? Question: Is the Power Supply (PS) input voltage setting indicated anyplace on the Printer/Paper Work/Box, etc? Won't damage the Printer if it's set wrong here in North America but certainly a big problem for our friends that use 240 mains. When Printers have an exposed PS it's very easy to check but not so when the PS is enclosed in the base. Suggestion: When adjusting the individual Z Axis heights, unplug one of the Stepper Motors and they won't turn together. That way you don't need three hands. (Never unplug a Stepper Motor when the Printer is powered up. This can blow the Stepper Motor Drive) Cheers Willy

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Looking up the specs, it appears to be auto-switching. www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/260/RSP-500-spec-1109676.pdf Regarding your suggestion, they both rotate because the X rail is attached by multiple points so it doesnt pivot. Something like the Wanhao D9 has a single attachment point on either side for the X rail, so it can pivot quite easily. Unplugging the motor will have no effect here. You're right - never unplug a stepper while it is energized. We filmed the outro before the timelapse to save time, therefore the print wasnt done to comment on it.But it was flawless.

[@rarih100]

nice review but i don’t know if this printer can compare with the prusa mk3 , especialy the price , i know the size and of the printer is bigger than prusa , but not matter these days .. imp the cr10 or ender3 is good enough .. !

[@JonGritton]

Size can be important - it depends on your needs. I have several clients that will use the extra 50mm or so, and don't forget it's 400mm in Z as well.

[@FailCommando]

Is the Cr10s better than the Ender versions?

[@nobodytoyou4887]

Please tell me that extruder assembly will a buy-able spare part , my Original CR-10 could really use this. (hopefully just the part over the Extruder motor with the gears ect. wouldn't need the base plate that has the filament sensor as i have changed the firmware on my CR-10). But damn this almost makes me want to buy it , but no room for a second printer and i love my CR-10 :S

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Ill check the extruder assembly tonight and try and determine if it's a direct bolt on

[@nobodytoyou4887]

@@Jason-yn6oy Awesome , and if it is will be great news really anyone with a MK8 style extruder (basically every other creality printer and clone). Asumming it dosen't cost an arm and a leg XD (bondtech stuff is nice and all but jeez it's pricey).

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@nobodytoyou4887 While I agree that bondtech stuff is expensive, you're also getting more than you would with this extruder. You're not getting a 3:1 gearing or direct drive here.

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@nobodytoyou4887 hey, it will fit. Its standard nema17 bolt pattern to the stepper. It will direct swap.

[@nobodytoyou4887]

Jason that's great news , and while might not offer everything say a bondtech would, I imagine for both flexible and slippery filaments it's a good option if offered. I also email TH3D and tiny machines, TH3d said they will contact thier creality rep to see about carrying them, no word from tiny machines yet.

[@keithkamps77]

Waiting for mine to be shipped. How did the test dog print out.

[@Jason-yn6oy]

The dog turned out flawless, just like it did on the ender3

[@keithkamps77]

@@Jason-yn6oy Thanks for getting back to me. I really enjoy your videos. I'm new to 3D printing and I recently bought the Ender3 for my 1st printer and am loving it and wanted something with a little bit of a bigger build volume and believe the Pro is going to fill my needs.

[@laws12341]

How about the enclosure ? Isit possible to enclosed it,

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Why wouldn't it be, you're basically just putting a box overtop. As always, when you have the electronics in the warm enclosure you may overheat the drivers or have premature failure of electronics.

[@nerys71]

better. because its an AIO with a full metal enclosed base you could design an enclosure that does NOT include the bottom of the machine which would let you keep the electronics out of the heat of the enclosure.

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@nerys71 this is much simpler to do with the external box. Designing an enclosure that sits on top of the bottom case is a lot more work than a box that goes over the entire unit, resting on the table, with a hole for the external box cables. The bed extends beyond the base, so your enclosure would need to rest on the base, extend horizontally outward to clear the bed and uprights, then extend upwards.

[@willettfx]

Nice , it’s Ender3 ‘s daddy .... need one to make bigger prints ! Really enjoy your channel!

[@Jason-yn6oy]

It's actually the cr-10s' daddy

[@willettfx]

Jason so Ender3 is the grandson!

[@Jorjito1989GDios]

how do I move g.code to root

[@macmaniacal]

Phillips would be plus, not star. Torx is star. It's also not a flathead, it's slotted.

[@wannabeuk]

Will an S5 version be available?

[@nerys71]

I really hope so or even a hybrid of S4 and S5 would be amazing 445 machine I would kill for with these components. I would also kill for a CR-20 with these electronics and extruder assembly !!

[@robertavery8897]

Interesting ... Same thing happened to me ... box went on the floor.

[@stringfellowhawk4843]

Great. So all that time and money I dumped into my Ender 3 could have gone into one of these. The only thing my E3 has that this one doesnt is a Titan Aero direct extruder. Damn.

[@cameroningle6782]

who else noticed that the box was already open before he sliced through it....?

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Indeed it was. I sliced it open and realized it would suck pulling it out on camera without assistance, so before pulling anything out, we re-shot that part.That was the whole joke behind "excellent job cutting the tape"

[@tropicalwargaming688]

Is the bed warped? Most Creality beds are warped.

[@tdougler]

They're all shipping with thicker glass beds now. Warping isn't so much of an issue on the higher end units.

[@johnkarobonik2017]

Looking at the mesh bed leveling data looks like a .6mm or great warp and that data looks like it was take cold. Would be interesting to print a large first layer only only and take a look at it.

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@johnkarobonik2017 Actually, the bed is flat. The back left corner is low, the front right is high and the back right corner is slightly less high. None of those figures indicate a dished or convex bed. Yes, it was done cold and had you watched the entire video I even mentioned it should be done once it was hot. I use a G28 then G29 in my startup gcode for each print, which occurs after the bed is up to temp. This was just for demonstration.

[@ryanlevin1292]

we would like to see an upbox next

[@tomoquads3975]

you hear that prusa i3 mk2 all metal no 3d printed parts!

[@nerys71]

3d printing canada. I am chris from todays 3d print. I have one of these. would you be willing to contact me (twitter @nerys) I would like to know if you can run a test print for me. having some issues with specific things look for other s pro users to try it and see if its my machine of the firmware in general. thanks!

[@Jason-yn6oy]

Sure thing. Email me: [e-mail]

[@RF-ll5wk]

What's the final verdict on the CR-10s Pro? Is there a problem with all of them or just yours? How does this printer rate overall? Do you recommend it? thanks!

[@Jason-yn6oy]

@@RF-ll5wk the issue discussed here was firmware related and had been resolved shortly after filming by performing a firmware update

[@RF-ll5wk]

@Nerys If someone is in the market for a large volume printer, Do you recommend the CR-10s Pro? Thanks!

[@Creality3D]

Creality CR-10s Pro Printer Suggestion Feedback Activity Dear Customers: In recent weeks we have heard from our community about suggestions customers are having with their CR-10S Pro 3D printer. We are so very sorry for the inconvenience- and want to assure you we take the suggestions and advice seriously. All departments at Creality 3D are operating under instructions to solve this problem as soon as possible. We also are aware that expecting you- the customer, to do our job for us and troubleshoot these post-sale issues is not entirely reasonable. So we've decided to try something new. If you would be so kind as to email us at [e-mail], describe the problem you are having, if you solved it, and how you would most like to see it addressed, if we're able to use that feedback we'll offer you a small cash reward for your valuable time. A "red envelope" as we call it here in China, as a thank you for your patience. Please note, only the email [e-mail] is valid for this offer. Offer expires March 17th, 2019 at midnight GMT. Also please include your PayPal account address. Thank you very much for your trust and support. 3D printer technology is still evolving and we appreciate your patience while we do our best to make 3D printers good enough, and cheap enough to be ubiquitous- a useful home appliance every home in every country can have. We appreciate your patience with the fast-moving iterative process required to make that happen. Award: Participants who give the most feasibility advice and solutions for the issue you have or you have seen in the community will award, and ten participants will be awarded this prize. Participants who give the related advice and solutions will award, and twenty participants will be awarded this prize. Except for the above two cases, the rest of all participants will be rewarded and the overall number of people is unlimited. Evaluation: R&D department, production department, and quality control department all will be involved. Deadline: March 17th, 2019 The evaluation results will be announced to you in the follow-up which includes whole reward participants who give the most feasibility advice and solutions. PS: This activity is not only limited to cr-10s pro, but you can also write the suggestion and advice email about our other 3d printer to [e-mail]. Creality 3D

[@WayneEarls]

I think the Ender 3 pro is way more worth the money.. You can't even see sub folders on this one..

[@thebrakshow7415]

really.. no one is going to talk about that ribbon cable just protruding out 3 feet? They completely redesigned everything, why wouldn't they have address that eye sore lol

[@nerys71]

worth it for simplicity repairability and reliability personally. I personally would like to have destranded it and made it "round" but then you remove its good feature. its pretty stiff so it will never "snag" on any part of the printer.

[@sparrowthenerd]

Damn... I wanted a CR-10 but got an Ender 3 because of cost, still a great printer tho

[@KetansaCreatesArt]

Hi Rocket Nerd, I suppose you have mastered your printer by now. Do you know any authentic forums for 3D printing, preferably where members share there files for printing? Or any website where we get royalty free 3D print files? Thank you ☺️

[@clutch2827]

Of course I'd buy a 10S right before the pro comes out...

[@zero00tolerance]

:( thats sad

[@clutch2827]

However, I have just learned that the nozzles for the pro may be different than the mk8 nozzles...

[@zero00tolerance]

@@clutch2827 Mk10 nozzle, can you return it and buy the Pro ?

[@clutch2827]

It is a proprietary nozzle which is more expensive and you can only get from Creality. No thanks. I'm glad I got the 10s.

[@BlàckÐèàth]

I wish they'd make a pro version of the cr-10s 5.

[@skrandiz7076]

I lIke very much this 3D printer.

[@twHomeShow]

Geez...did you really just "Fake-Cut" the box tape? We came here for a REAL unBoxing :)

[@jotirlingswami9357]

Why are opening like there is gold 3d printer and you are the only one having it. Every time you are throwing thing like you got all damaged and junk part Open calmly and slowly.....

[@AHAD2010ii]

Heed this machine help me plz

[@AHAD2010ii]

dushor2007@gmail. Com

[@macmaniacal]

Standpoints...

[@jackpeng4687]

Canadians be like zED AxiS

[@MegaMarcuscooper]

SERIOUSLY NOT A SINGLE CLOSE-UP OF THE PRINT? Are you just shilling printers or do you actually care about this community? This isn't even the first, second, etc time you've done this.

[@niZmosis]

The white wall is horrible

[@floridasaltlife]

I cannot believe I just give 26 minutes of my life and you stopped short of showing us the test print, pathetic

[@smilingskull7827]

Worst printer out of the box experience for new and experienced users. Customer service is non existent and good luck if you have to return for a refund back to China. Stay far away from this printer. And get a PRUSA i3

[@mehmetacikgoz7837]

Terrible terrible terrible printer at all !!! I regret buying this so much I can not explain. I have Original Prusa Mk3, Anycubic i3 Mega more than a year and printed thousand of functional pieces so far. and I ve had no issues with them like this before. When it comes to this pro shit, I feel like a robbed man. I am a mechanical engineer in my long carieer and quite keen on squareness, precision etc with the tolerances in mine. But this CR10s pro is out of every concept. So much faults on the printer, I do not know how to explain all of them. I worked 10 hrs per day for a week on it and I could not get a decent z leveling even once!!! No print at all !!! and printer is sitting on the corner. I am sure that it has serious issues on geometry of the side columns, squareness of the metal base and side vertical alu. profiles. I tried every possibilities to make the z axis level with respect to the metal base but no way. You may force one side while holding tight the other side step motor shaft but this does not solved the issue. When you leave it , it returns to old position immediately. I tried to adjust the rollers of the z axis but no success at all. When I checked the side columns squareness with the metal base I saw they are out of by 3-4 degrees. I said I can compansate this with the leveling knobs of the bed, then I saw the bed is not flat al all. I observed that the alu bed has concave surface. I ve got a glass ultrabase type bed too in the shipment but this has smaller size than the alu base so that the side clips are out of function. I finally managed to fixed this ultrabase by using paper clips but it does not helped at all. Printer is not holding the z offset at all. Leveling sequence is soooo slow then it drives me crazy to readjust everything again and again and again... I take the beams apart and measure them to see if they are the same length, then I observed that the bottom and top cut of the side alu columns have angles. The cuts have to be square to stand up square. Later I found that the metal base is not square at all. There is no slight sign of hit or dropped chassis but it is crooked by manufacture. And so on and so on... I can not tell you all of them here. I tried to contact the creality but I believe that there will be no solution as usual. I do think now to dismantle all printer and rebuild a true chasis from the scratch by using anly thick aluminium profiles. I can make that since I have a workshop with all facilities. But not much people buying this crap have a workshop like me...

[@jamesfraser7483]

Cr-10s Pro what can I say but what a pile of shit. Won't level correctly and print different thickness of layers regardless of calibration of adjustment. And that's not talking about stupid jumping of x axis that isn't even remotely level. I highly recommend avoiding Creality and Bang good. Horrific service and attitude. So in short the Cr10s-pro is garbage.

[@CgBrian]

and what printer is it that IS working for you? Interesting that there are many people NOT having the same issues as you are. Are you positive everything is assembled correctly? Nothing to do with YOUR settings either?