PrusaSlicer Modifiers Tutorial

[@mm-qd1ho]

This is excellent. Well done.

[@3DRevolution]

Thanks, hope it helps!

[@Liberty4Ever]

Great tutorial. I saw a German video that I couldn't understand that seemed to say that modifiers could be used in PrusaSlicer to paint on seams. I have a hollow cylinder and I'd like to have the seam on the inside but all of the standard PrusaSlicer seam options put the seam on the outside. Even though seams weren't covered in this video, I learned a lot about modifiers. Thanks.

[@Liberty4Ever]

I found paint on seams (no modifier required), but I couldn't find any way to set two end points and have it interpret a line for the seam. I was forced to free hand a seam with the mouse which is a wavy crooked line, but at least it's on the inside of the part.

[@3DRevolution]

Hey, thanks glad you liked the tutorial. You can absolutely paint on your preference of where you'd like seams to be. Select your model and either press "P" on your keyboard, or select the seam painting tool in the tool bar (the cube with a zig zag of short lines), then paint on your item. However, it sounds like your cylnder is pipe shaped. As a result, it will have an exterior wall on both the inside and on the outside. Each perimeter wall has a seam so your cylinder is going to need one seem on the inside, and one on the outside.

[@georgehyker]

Thank you for creating this video!

[@3DRevolution]

My pleasure!

[@spotlightsm]

I have two different stl on the plate. Can one modifier work on both or do I need to make a modifier for each?

[@3DRevolution]

It's possible to use the same modifier for multiple objects but you need to merge them first. Get your objects oriented and positioned as you'd like to print them on the print bed, then select both of them, right click one and select "Merge". This will then treat the two objects (even if they aren't touching) as a single object. So if you clicked one and moved it, it would move them both as a single unit. Once you've merged an object, you can then apply modifiers and volumes which interact with both of them. Hope that helps. Hav a wonderful day, and happy printing!

[@Imercor1]

I've been using Simplify 3d for around six years and decided to take the plunge into PrusaSlicer. I really appreciate your teaching style and covering this software. Please explain how to save files like I do with FFF in Simplify 3d. I like to be able to import a specific FFF to use with a similar file so I don't have to recreate it. Probably something simple and I am making it harder than it needs to be...lol

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Jeff, ah similar here, I was a big Simplify3D convert after being pretty dedicated to it for a long time. I'll add your request to my list of videos to make :) I'm glad to hear you like the video, happy printing!

[@totalobliviondemolition]

Im trying to add infill to the inside walls of a can koozie and I cannot for the life of me get the hollow walls to infill any way you could possibly help?

[@phantom_not_chopper]

If I want to beef up holes for tapping threads what would you recommend?

[@3DRevolution]

If you wanted to effectively shrink existing holes, and from within your slicer, it's worth noting that negative parts/volumes will subtract from added parts as well as the main object. So you could add parts, resize and position them to effectively fill in the holes completely, then add negative cylinders and position and size them as desired for your new holes.

[@mordantly]

A modifier shape can't change the layer height?

[@3DRevolution]

Unfortunately not. I can understand that shapes wouldn't allow for it as there would be conflicting layer heights with conjoined areas, but I had hoped they would eventually add layer height adjustment to a Height Range modifier, but so far that hasn't been added either. The nearest option at the moment is that you can set different layer heights for whole models (but not modifiers), so if you used the cut tool to divide your model at the point you wanted the layer height to change, then applied a different layer height to each model it created, then position your models appropriately so that they perfectly line up and will fuse when printing, that would technically do it, but far from ideal and probably not worth the hassle

[@mordantly]

@@3DRevolution i figured a .2 height here, .4 here deal would avoid the potential layer bonding as one should be able to put 2 layers then extrude a double at same Z around it. Thanks for confirming that I am not blind. True the method you suggest is very clunky. I guess a boxed lithophane will have to take 1.5 days...

[@bluerider0988]

Thanks again.

[@keesmod1132]

Thanks for this tutorial. One question. Is it possible to have a modifier align to a certain part (surface, location) of the object as can be done with the align function in fusion 360?

[@3DRevolution]

I'll have an experiment but I don't think so I'm afraid. However, a modifier only affects the model it's applied to, and only the area they overlap, so it shouldn't matter if a modifier sticks out anywhere. However, if you want to ensure it doesn't affect another part of the same model you'll need to position it by eye I'm afraid.

[@KunalRamtale]

Great but modifier sticking back on bed when pulling up z axis. How did you disable this please?

[@3DRevolution]

Hi Kunal, I'm afraid that's not something I've ever seen. There is no "gravity" applied to the modifiers as they aren't a printable object, just defining an area to apply settings to. Make sure that you've right clicked the model you'd like to modify, gone down to "add modifier" and then selected the shape. If you just missed your actual model and right click anywhere else on your build plate it will give you the option to "add shape", but these will always snap back down onto the print bed as they are a physical object that will be printed.

[@joeking5211]

Can you use this to just change the Z-Hop so it operates only on the top layer(s), I am thinking of flat surface style prints to cure nozzle drag marks, so as not have Z-Hop enabled during the whole print slowing everything up for nothing ?.

[@3DRevolution]

No unfortunately you can't. Z-Hop is an essential mechanic of the print and without it, even if you're not worried about aesthetic quality on lower layers, without z-hop it could literally bend or push sections of your print and have drastic impacts on the accuracy of your print.