4 Essential Poly Fairing Compound Tips You May Be Overlooking

[@JCInshore]

Having decided to completely refurbish/modify a fiberglass skiff, I have watched just about every video you've put out regarding anything fiberglass. This video has changed my thinking when I get to the fairing stage(hopefully soon). I've been using a polyester resin for my glass work. Mostly for cost reasons. I was going to stick with a polyester fairing just cuz I had the resin already. But that demonstration really showed me an epoxy fairing is really the way to go. Already having decided on paint and not gel coat, the epoxy really seems to be the way to go with the fairing. Awesome video!! Just in time!

[@boatworkstoday]

As long as you're painting, epoxy fairing is the way to go. However, it would completely close the door on being able to gelcoat (something to keep in mind). If that decision isn't 100% made then a poly fairing with some cure time between sanding would also be a good option :-)

[@TotalBoat]

Super informative video, Andy! Great job!

[@stephs1571]

Super helpful!! Thank you!

[@davestewart9146]

Great information, thanks Andy 👍😁

[@jaquigreenlees]

Andy, what about vinylester compounds? Fleming Yachts uses Vinylester based glass for their layup of their models. They also use the much more expensive fire resistant glass to make the fuel tanks.

[@MultiBmorgan]

excellent again! thx

[@anthonyalvarado9390]

Very helpful. Thank you!

[@jorgelecuona8031]

Very nice video! Thanks. I am adding steingers after a rock crash🤦🤦, and using carbon f in last layers. An idea: one day u can make video for different hull profile 20x20cm, all with poli base and all with epoxy base. You can use diferents technics or cores... Regards from Spain⛵⛵

[@bernardszirth9665]

Always so well done! During last season, I hit with my Cape Dory 28ft sailboat a submerged tree log after a storm. It left a 1 inch by 1/2 inch deep gouge on the full keel all the way to the fiberglass. It’s 2 feet below the waterline. I understand I need to repair this with epoxy, could you recommend the Total boat repair product I need? Many thanks 🙏

[@boatworkstoday]

I'd kinda need to see some pics but speculating you'll want some 2:1 or 5:1 epoxy for some glasswork, 1708, totalfair and finally a barrier coat (total protect) and / or bottom paint (if it's currently painted). Misc items such as mix cups, brushes, stir sticks, and solvent wipedown (surface cleaner / dewaxer). Hope this helps :-)

[@bernardszirth9665]

Would like to purchase these items from you! May I email and include images?

[@robw2379]

Great tips Andy. The "dewax before sanding" tip is going to save me a fortune in sandpaper. How are the shoulders doing? Will you be pitching for the Tigers next spring? 😉

[@boatworkstoday]

Making good progress! Update next week, getting back on project ;-)!

[@Art-jw8ho]

What about the polyester structural repair putty? Would that be appropriate for filling stress cracks above the waterline?

[@boatworkstoday]

Definitely better but ideally you'll also want a layer of glass overtop the filled area to stabilize the surface :-)

[@nathanielzervos1265]

Hey Andy, will we see more work on the Bertram in the future?

[@boatworkstoday]

Yup, very soon. shoulders are coming along and almost ready to go!

[@johnnylightning1491]

Good information. I'm just wondering how automotive body filler gets away with sanding and painting very quickly as it's basically polyester resin and wood flour. In any event, if you let the poly fairing compound sit for a couple of months would that eliminate the shrinking issue? Keep the good stuff coming.

[@boatworkstoday]

A lot depends on the temps that you're working in; cooler temps = longer cure times so if a part / project is put into an 'oven' that will greatly speed up the process (spray booths are climate and humidity controlled). For the rest of us working outdoors or in typical air temps figure at least a couple weeks cure. :-)

[@chrisdoyle1367]

Surprised you say acetone is not a de-waxer. I was taught to wipe with acetone, sand and ten wipe down again. In tests, that has always worked well for me.

[@boatworkstoday]

acetone is a great cleaner for bare glass and cured gelcoat but for the most part all it does with wax is somewhat dissolve and smear. It evaporates so quickly there's not enough time to get the wax into suspension and wiped clean :-). Maybe if you did it enough times it would be ok but it's not as effective as a dedicated wax remover :-)

[@Dark_Ember_2024]

How does vinyl ester compare to polyester? I have been told that vinyl is essentially the ester version of epoxy.

[@boatworkstoday]

It's kind of like a hybrid between poly and epoxy. Essentially it's epoxy solids dissolved in a styrene based resin (similar to poly resin). Works just like poly but has a bit more moisture resistance due to the epoxy solids

[@scottschlather4945]

Where was this video this weekend! Ugh! 45 Degrees. Poly. No wax! UGH!

[@boatworkstoday]

How does the saying go; day late and dollar short lol?? Hopefully all went well at the end of the day!

[@stevemccormick4938]

Try finding a dewaxer in the peoples republic of kalifornia.

[@boatworkstoday]

Pretty sure Jamestown / Totalboat ships to Kali :-)

[@si-sb2mx]

generally, unlike youtube repairs, in the workshop, polyester is used for 95% repairs for well known reasons

[@boatworkstoday]

True ;-)!!