4 Ways To Refinish Your Bathtub | Which is Best?

[@RefinishedBathSolutions]

Jeff, Patrick over at Refinished Bath. We are the makers of Ekopel. First off your video is amazing! I wanted to clear up pricing our bathtub pour on kit is $159.95. $320 was our old 2 pack pour on kit which we have replaced with Roll on. Our Ekopel roll on bathtub kit is $119.95 for 2 coats packed separately, and finally Our roll on bathtub and surround kit is $219.95. This includes 2 full kits enough for 2 full coats. 2nd coat can be applied after 3-5 hours. Again this video was amazing! If it’s possible to correct the pricing, I’d hate for a customer to be scared of that price. For $640 I would definitely replace mine lol I don’t want to spam your page and won’t include a link to our page but if there is a way to adjust the video it would help us and your viewers a lot.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Hi Patrick. Thanks for the update. we added a link and a comment! Always happy to make sure we are representing companies properly and keeping our viewers informed. Cheers!

[@zandra7966]

Thank you for the update Patrick, I'm gonna check out the roll on version on the site.

[@Rottweiler_girly]

Can your product be applied to both tub and tile surround? Also does it go over the grout and does it create a solid layer over the tile and grout like a professional reglazing does where it adds toughness and rigidity to the tile?

[@jasonbkau]

Makers of Ekopel? Aren’t you just the American distributor? I thought Ekopel 2K was made in Europe.

[@RefinishedBathSolutions]

@@jasonbkauEkopel was originally developed in Europe. We purchased the Brands North and South American rights a few years ago. We have have manufactured and distributed here in New Hampshire ever since.

[@flickboogers9325]

Ekopel is what I've used... It doesn't let out any bad smells but I still wear a mask when I mix it and one coat is all you need however applying it to make it perfectly even is the difficulty. I did this on a Jacuzzi a stand-up shower and it's definitely not a rookie job. But years later still looks immaculate.

[@chriscolameco6850]

@Jeff, I’ve done long term testing on ALL of these. I am a buy and hold investor with seven rentals with refinished cast iron tubs. The ONLY one I will ever use is the EKOPEL 2K. I have tried all of these, and most of them start peeling up off the tub after 1-2 years and you have to re do it. The 2K is the only one with long term durability, if you get them 4 at a time you can get the kits for 150 a pop. I haven’t done the spray on, or put anything on a fiberglass tub, but have used the rustoleum and homax brush and roll kits (which theoretically should hold up better) the rustoleum lasts about a year, homax lasts a little under 2 years. I’ve actually done a lot of experiments like this since I do all my own maintenance myself and want to remodel houses once, collect my rent and not deal with maintenance calls and will happily send over my list of everything I use in my houses if that’s helpful for the Chanel. (From toilet flanges and rings, to shower diverters, doors, smoke alarms, faucets, paint, sealants, ect) I also have an excel spreadsheet that has the cheapest place to buy everything I put in my houses

[@OleksandrKarliychuk]

Hey, any idea how the ekopel will do on a kitchen sink? Trying to refinish mine.

[@dannyrondeau7873]

I would love to have a look at this list of yours! Props to you for putting in that effort and making notes!

[@fast-n-dapper4343]

@@OleksandrKarliychuk it is a fantastic product and it will work for a kitchen sink, but keep in mind that it is still technically a plastic so I'm not sure if I would personally use it for that application since that area is subject to a lot of wear and tear.

[@sc00b3rt]

I would agree. I used ekopel on my tub. It turned out really good and is durable.

[@JESosa]

Hi Chris I am new landlord in Colorado and I have to do a remodel on basically the entire house could you please send me your list?

[@marybelllillyflowers4945]

This video was invaluable to me. I was pulling my hair out for years trying to imagine what each would do and how hard it was to prep and actually do it, if it was decided to try it at all. Fantastic presentation and thorough AND fun and encouraging.😅

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Happy to help.

[@j.j.mccracken8437]

Hi Jeff! Thank you so much for this product test! I used Ekopel in the bottom of an old cast iron tub with rust and a hole a year & a half ago. First, I chipped and sanded out all the rust, filled with blue Bondo, sanded flat, cleaned it thoroughly with Lysol Power (w hydrochloric acid), and let it dry a day. Then I taped off a large rectangle in the bottom of the tub and taped off the drain like the Ekopel videos show. I poured in a $30 8-ounce non-slip Ekopel kit, pushed it around to even it out with the roller, and let it cure a couple days. No smell. I have a lot of casting/mold-making/art epoxy experience and found it very easy to apply. It cured very hard, is very white, and non-slip property is excellent. A friend who takes baths daily lived there for a year, now someone who does both baths and showers. There is a tiny chip missing in the middle of the coating. It's really so good, so easy, and so cheap, I won't mind if I have to sand it, clean it, and coat it again in a couple years. I started to consider switching to the Bathworks kit while watching your video, until I saw the end scratch test post flood-- this confirms my experience, that this coating really bonds well to the substrate.

[@lhlinn7351]

I used Rust-Oleum Tub and Tile refinishing kit 7 years ago. Fiberglass tub and shower surround. It has stood up very well. Durability seems to depend upon how much the shower is used. My shower is used once (sometimes twice) per day and less than 10 minutes per shower. I am very careful about not dropping items in the shower and not having anything that might scratch the surface. I am starting to notice that the tub bottom is showing some signs of fading and I'm planning to redo just the tub bottom in the next couple of months. Prep, prep, prep is essential. I removed all chrome (drain piece, spout, handle, and surround, etc.) It is a 2-part product. After mixing, I found that I needed to let the product "sit" 15 minutes prior to application. That was just my experience, and that was not in the instructions. The odor is terrible. I used a 3M paint respirator. They aren't that expensive on Amazon. I used 2 coats. Used both a foam roller and foam brush to get harder-to-access areas.

[@chipcook6646]

Regular paint respirator do not work. Reduced the smell but not the chemicals you are breathing. One tub will not kill you.

[@heatherwestlund-q5t]

I refinished a tub 4 years ago using Ekopel pour on. Great durable finish to this day on the 1950s cast iron tub. I want to say it cost just over $100 for the product. Loved that if smelled good. Glad to hear they have a roll on product. Can definitely recommend this product

[@roygumpel8415]

thank god at least You mentioned that this process (or the product anyway) is good for cast iron tub. He mentions nothing about that.

[@dnl4295]

Thank you for the video. Take note from someone who has done it twice on his own home. Steer clear from the spray. I have done our steel/iron tub twice, and a shower pan once. they will not last 6 months. And the amount of time and prep ain't worth it. Currently saving money and paid time off to do an actual remodeling.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Great point!

[@mycaddigo]

Do you have to take all the caulk off ?! And would you thread the drain out ur cut in ?!

[@CalebGibbsAvenue]

24:30 Results after drying some 26:21 48hr after 29:56 scratch tests 32:52 if you're looking for bulletproof.Let's go❤

[@BradSabako]

I’ve done 4 rental remodels. The first one I used the rust oleum. Rolled on, required 2 coats and tge stink was incredibly bad!!! The remains ones, I used eloped! Awesome! Bulletproof, no smell.

[@Silvius-Maximus]

Thanks for this video. Based on Durability and low odour I chose the Ekopel 2k. I used the roller as per instruction. Pushing the Epoxy up the sides of the tube and letting it fall and the finish is beautiful. So far the texture is smooth but it does feel like it sticks to the skin so it is not slippery, but water and dirt wash away. It worked out nicely. I just wish I wore my reading glasses when using the heat gun because I missed a lot of bubbles. But that is just more traction.

[@larrynorton3652]

Hey Jeff, I just wanted to mention that 2 years ago we bought a house that needed everything. Bones were great (all 506 sq ft) and your videos were really helpful. As a professional painter i would suggest that you might consider skipping those videos. That said, the opne thing I didn't get to was redoing the tub. I have had the Ekopel product in my garage for all this time and this convinced me to go ahead and use it. I really really appreciate these videos where you provide info and demonstrations on products or compare faucets, paints ect. You are truly one of a kind.

[@SeeBE23]

You are simply brilliant. I love someone who tries things because they are curious, and then shares them with others. I love ya. Thanks for great videos

[@kristineolver3268]

I used the rustoleum brand refinishing kit, and at the time I bought, it was only $25, and I only needed one kit to do my tub, no surround just the tub. It turned out beautifully and is very strong.

[@openeyes-411]

So it's held up well with time and real use Kristine - over how long now?

[@wadebrewer7212]

​@@openeyes-411would be good to know

[@waffle_chair9269]

I did same with basins. Did them the same. One held up, one chipped and cracked away. I don’t think I prepped it as well. The stuff is magical if you have horrible 50’s coloured basins/baths did mine over a year ago. Definitely worth the money

[@zpakk4499]

I was LITERALLY just searching for how to reglaze my jetted tub. Like usual, you came through with an answer!!! Thanks, Jeff.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad to help

[@destinyschild8515]

Use Ekopel. Watch all the videos and cover and mask everything well. Be sure to scoop excess and keep moving around in the alloted time. Any pooling needs to be removed before it starts to harden. This stuff has no bad smell, self levels and leaves a rock hard beautiful finish. I did a 1920s tub that turned out great.

[@flymypg]

When I had my showers sprayed, I negotiated the price nearly in half by doing all the prep myself. First, I removed all the hardware, caulk, overpaint and soap scum. Next was TSP, then a mild ScotchBrite pad to "break the shine". The painter did a quick 1-minute wipedown with a tacky cloth followed by another quick wipedown with acetone or MEK (I forget which). For both baths, he was done & gone in about an hour. 24 hours later I put it all back together then waited another 24 hours before using it to ensure full curing. That was 20 years ago, and the surface never failed! Though now I'm getting ready to gut both baths for a remodel.

[@josephinemorey2269]

What type of paint did you use to spray?

[@arrepuess]

This is probably the best way to save money. If you can sand it well, mask, it should hold up great. However, I would recommend not to use anyone that sprays epoxy. That stuff will yellow, and stain easy.

[@blastypowpow]

I’m curious, what did you pay? I have the *_UGLIEST_* 80’s dark beige standalone tub in my aging modular home main bathroom that also has a shower stall, and a tub with 3 walls in the small bathroom in my hall. I’m really itching to do this to modernize all the 80’s beige everything in here, including the sinks and laminate flooring covering the entire rectangle floor plan(even under the carpet). I’d be fine doing all the prep work, including the acid wash. I don’t have a lot of money because I have high functioning, high IQ autism and I don’t work so I’m on SSI and my significant other works. I want to re-do the house as DIY as I can. It’s a 40 year old modular home and nothing has been redone. I need to re-do the bathrooms, carpet, painting, figure out what flooring I can use on top of laminate flooring, and somehow afford all new cabinets and countertops in the kitchen. It might take me a while. I have nothing better to do, though. I wish I knew someone who could do some basic remodeling class for me. It’s tough when it’s not a regular house and it’s, more or less, a nicer mobile home without wheels. Sometimes the processes for remodeling and fixing things is very different.

[@davepetrakos1192]

I am so glad to see Ekopel in your video. I have a claw foot tub that has been here ever since the house received plumbing. After watching a video on that product, all I can suggest to anyone who opts for Ekopel: read AND re-read instructions. Follow the instructions to a T. Do not use a drill to stir.. 70°- 75°f ambient temperature for applications and cure. The list goes on. Jeff's scratch test sold me ... even after not constantly drizzling and re-drizzling the stuff. And remember, like Jeff said - good luck with any warranty. The sweat equity and down time is more than the cost of any of the products- so remember, what is worth doing is worth doing well. And just use your gym membership -OR- outdoor shower for several days (why test the stuff with minimum cure time)? Now I'm ready to move the tub to a larger room that becomes BR, with the claw foot And separate shower. The original, not original, bath becomes laundry.

[@billhandley943]

Great information Jeff. I own a company in the Niagara Region and reglaze tubs daily. Another option if you don't want to do it yourself is to have me perform the reglazing. The average cost to reglaze a tub is $400 plus HST. We guarantee the finish for 6 years.

[@rosemaryflee]

What is the name of your company? Thanks!

[@lloydnelson3210]

No song and dance in your videos, every minute is useful. Thank you Sir!

[@larrytheplumber9851]

Needs a little dance sometimes

[@dennisseger6717]

I just did my tub and tile with rust oleum and I could not be happier, it looks beautiful. Preparation is so important. Make sure it is clean as can be.

[@arlenem9697]

I used Ekopel 2k about four years ago on my tub, which was a pour-on version. Now they have a roll version which is less messy. There was no smell, very easy instructions, and the tub came out nice. I also use this on the bathroom sink. After researching a lot of products, I chose this because of the ease and no smell. After four years, the tub and sink still holding up. I'm still debating if I want to do the bathroom and shower walls.

[@solaveritas2]

Thanks for this review. This is helpful to know. Four years is a good test.

[@casualSeth]

Great video. I used the Bathworks refinishing Kit on our walk in about a year and a half ago. Not perfect and definitely meant to be temporary but it's it been holding up pretty well. A small chip showed up on the shower wall after about 6 months but a couple of applications of white fingernail polish covered it pretty well. My only issue with the product is that it starts to cure quicker than the product says. You really need to apply within 15-20 minutes of mixing. Also, the foam roller it comes with is pretty much toast from the chemicals if you don't apply it quick enough either. Like you said, you get what you pay for but I went in knowing this would be a temp solution until we properly update the bathroom.

[@Rachad2317]

A different kind of video. This one REALLY save DIYs money. We see the result and we decide where to go from there. Truly appreciate you and your team to invest in this production. You guys ROCK

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Rachad! Happy to help!

[@Bathworks_Doug]

Hi Jeff, Doug from Bathworks here: manufacturers of one of the products featured in your video. First off, I just want to say thank you so much for choosing our product to be apart of your video. It's an honor and a privilege to be highlighted in this manner. Your reviews and tests are top-tier, informative, unbiased, and provide valuable insight for those interested in a project like this to help buyers make informed decisions. I did just want to correct one bit of information; Bathworks paint is a two-part acrylic resin, not an epoxy. Meaning, that our paint will retain color, gloss, durability, and non-yellowing properties much longer than an epoxy would. Since you were also testing spray cans, I did want to mention that we do have an single-component aerosol version of our product too! Our Bathworks spray refinishing kit comes with two 20oz cans (bigger than your traditional aerosol cans) as well as a bonus comfort grip that latches on top of a spray can for better ease of use to reduce finger fatigue while spraying.. all for $79! The coverage provided by the spray kit is much more than what is needed to do a tub - two kits (four cans) would do a tub an three walls. If you decide to do another video like this, we would love to set you up with our spray can kit to test out and review! We do also have a chip repair kit that can be used on a wide variety of surfaces, complete with touch-up paint. Once again, thank you from the bottom of our hearts for including us in your video and for the kind words you shared about our product. Absolutely exemplary work you do here. Best wishes to you.

[@jeremyrebel8931]

Great video!!! This is the stuff us diy home owners like to see. That is the difference whether we end up wasting our money or walk away with a job well done. I'm one that will stand in the store and read everything on the box on all options and then hope for the best. Not that I need a tub/surround refinish but that was top notch information!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@twistymint634]

Hello. I go into reglazing tubs a year ago. So far I found that Lysol toilet bowl gel cleaner removed all soap scum. It's nice cause it clings to the surface

[@mybestlastyears]

I used a marine paint from Home hardware last year. It's held up great! It only took one coat and wasn't super drippy. It was very stinky so I wore a mask with a ventilator. I factored the cost of the mask in the price which imo was worth it. I can use the mask when working on other projects. I painted the tub and tile in one day. This bathroom is in an Airbnb cottage rental so it has been used by a variety of people. It has held up excellently.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thanks for sharing! Cheers Lana!

[@Zzzibblest]

@LanaN42 I just did the same with Rustoleum Topside Marine Paint. It looks great! Covered very well and I’m hoping it lasts at least a year. A quart was about $30 and it was more than enough for our tub/shower combo surround

[@oscara1271]

@@Zzzibblest Thanks for mentioning the product you used, been looking for something, all these bath refinishing products seem to have bad reviews. So how has the Topside Marine Paint lasted? Looking for something affordable and hoping it lasts. Thank You.

[@Zzzibblest]

@@oscara1271 hi! Wow it’s actually been a year! It’s held up great- there’s one spot where I left a bar of soap sit and it “ate” through the paint somehow but other than that- looks as good as the day I painted it. It’s amazing stuff

[@NikkiPattillo-e8g]

Thank you so much! Got a ridiculous quote. Going to do it myself and I really appreciate the time you took to show us the different brands, prices, and what you recommend. My daughter’s college account thanks you!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@littlesandyhe4262]

Thank you so much Jeff! Another great video! Me and my husband have watched almost every single video in your channel since 2018 when we bought our first house in Ottawa! You are like our virtual father, held our hands to renovate our house 🏡 step by step. We really appreciated.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Happy to Share my experience and help folks out. Cheers!

[@humanbeans7952]

I used ekopel 3 years ago and it was my first time doing it and it came out great, still holding up nicely

[@dominiicp]

Actually this is just what I needed. I'm going to get the most expensive one even though I already have the least expensive one. I'm getting this place ready to rent out so I could move to the DR. I definitely appreciate it.

[@jag5316]

I used the Ekopel to refinish my tub but had trouble leveling the epoxy coating on the bottom and eliminating streaks on the sides with the roller. I used a sheet sander to knock everything down flat and wet-sand the finish back to glossy. However, I ended up over sanding in some places and had to buy more of the product to redo them. Ekopel offers a $35 touch up kit which was more than enough to remedy the thin spots so total cost of the project was $195. I guess by maybe my third tub I’d be proficient using this stuff, but I figure most people will refinish no more than one tub a decade so they will never get good at using this product. And by the way, the project from start to finish was five days, including two 48 hour cures. I’m delighted with the outcome but I’m frustrated the application process was so hard for me.

[@stevemellinger3776]

There is a couple in Maryland that refinished a tub and bath combo using marine paint for fiberglass. Maid a lot of sense and the project turned out nice. The shower was shiny and looked brand new. She did two coats of primer and two of the final paint. There was much prep but it looked to be well worth it.

[@danielthommen8243]

Marine paint for fiberglass makes sense...

[@edbrown7919]

Would that be cheaper?

[@stevemellinger3776]

@@edbrown7919 If you can find the video, you can judge yourself. Cost? I have no idea.

[@edbrown7919]

@@stevemellinger3776 I checked it out, now curious if it would work for a shower pan that isn’t fiberglass

[@stevemellinger3776]

@@edbrown7919 Only one way to find out.

[@otislindblom1]

Ok, so i know im late to the game , however , several years ago i used the Magic kit and i prepped my tub and tiles the way it instucted me to. The results were absolute garbage, and then it began scratching within a month. I was in a pinch as i was desperate to get my house ready to rent but at that time, and i really didnt have much money left in the bank to spend on upgrades. What i ended up using next i had some serious doubts about initially ,however , ive been so pleased with the results that i have now used this method 2x (on 2 separate projects) and the results have lasted and have been fantastic! Even more than that, it only cost me about $30-$40! For those who are interested , I'll warn you now this method is not low voc, but what i used was rustoleums white appliance epoxy. I used one of the cans of paint and i used a roller to apply it , i also used one of the spray paint cans for my sinks. I really cant rave enough about how good this product looks and feels, how long its lasted ( going on 5 years now), and how affordable it is! I know its a bit unconventional and appliance e poxy is not designed for tubs but it truly works wonders!

[@shannonbailey7580]

Lol I used that on my 2000 Mustang's roof, hood and trunk lid. It was one that the paint bubbled and fell off. A couple of years after applying it started falling off too. I'd be driving down the interstate and suddenly something white would fly by lol it was my damn car's paint. It matched Ford's Crystal White perfectly tho.

[@martircontreras4841]

Jeff, I don’t have much to say other than you were awesome. I wanted to post this for the KZbin algorithm. You have helped me so much in my renovation projects. You are a godsend.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Really appreciate that. Cheers!

[@millie1291]

Thank you for this video. It's on my honey do list for this fall/winter. Only doing the tub and fixing a gauge in the tub. You came through again and gave me all the advice i needed to feel confident in doing the ton diy. Thank you.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Kennethfirstone]

This is the realest test video , I’ve watch! From start to finish, I was amazed with the delivery and accuracy of the video quality of the products! Thanqs

[@bexaminer1]

Lol. I'm glad I watched the entire video. About 3 months ago I purchased the Ekopel kit. Actually two kits. I haven't done that project yet, but I intend to get to it once I finish a couple of other things I have to do. So in the video, I was beginning to think that I screwed up when I made my purchase. But all in all I think that my decision to go with the Ekopel isn't altogether a bad one.

[@loriwagner667]

Great product demonstration!! This makes it’s much easier to make a informed, educated choice! Appreciate you

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful! Cheers Lori!

[@veganconservative1109]

Thank you for this. We have an older cast iron that I was thinking of refinishing as I dislike fiberglass tubs (noisy, feel insubstantial). Now I'm going to just deal with the few scratches and stains in the hope of one day paying for a new cast iron one. Or create a tile tub. VOCs are an absolute no go. I had my shutters painted one and they said to let them air for one week. Five weeks later I was able to have them put back into the house without my eyes watering like a fountain.

[@GMAMEC]

Thanks for providing this review. As I was watching your video, I smiled at my husband and asked him if he wanted to go to the hardware store.

[@dalesworld1308]

I had two antique cast iron sinks sprayed years ago with a two part spray. I took the sinks to the company doing it so they could be sanded and acid etched and sprayed in a controlled temperature environment. They both started to crack and blister in the bottom of the bowls in short order. I don't think any of these coatings can hold up to the shock of hot and cold very well.

[@uncIeben]

I've used bathworks for 2 different tubs and I love it. It gives a great finish. Great gloss. That's if your existing material is glossy. It's not hard but will require a lot of elbow grease. Meaning most of the hard work is in the preparation prior to applying the mix. I recommend using 2 sheets on the primer and work very fast with it because it will dry on you very fast. You have to move fast to apply it evenly on all areas.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thanks for the tip!

[@uncIeben]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY np anytime. And thanks for the millions of tips you gave me on many other occasions.

[@maverick_trail]

I used Bathworks on a large shower (same color as the one in this video). I used a razor blade and various grit sandpaper for prep. The product rolled on pretty well but it was inconsistent - some areas were really smooth and others were textured by the foam roller. Even after rolling smooth, the product still "moved" on the vertical surfaces and formed runs. I let mine dry for 3-days and the surface had a nice gloss finish but I used sandpaper to remove the drips/runs, which took away the gloss from the surface. I went ahead and knocked down the gloss in the entire shower with sandpaper and 3M scratch/polish pads and even though it took twice the amount of work, it looks like a typical fiberglass shower finish. I'm real happy with the results. After 1 year, I have had no issues - no stains, no chips, no cracks and I know that if any of that happens, I can get a touch-up kit.

[@tedspens]

I recently used Ekopel on a chocolate brown sink and it almost covered in 1 coat. The trick is to keep moving the product back up the vertical surfaces for an hour or so, as it starts to thicken.

[@mrzif0013]

I used a waterproof paint and no cleaning/prep and I got a problem, your advice is great.

[@ElizabethHernandez-cm2is]

Thank you for showing us the difference in each product. I was just thinking about which would be best for our tub and you answered my questions. Awesome

[@Mont_Blanc_Photography]

Just redoing our bath....will definitely go for the first one, as it will last by the looks of it. Thanks for this great review of the different products.

[@unique7eleven]

Your video wasn't just educational but also entertaining. I really appreciate the content.

[@tynequiaburnette8295]

The knowledge this man has is freaking incredible. What an awesome video with very detailing.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@WakandaBabe]

Very informative. Since there is very little traffic in my bathroom, just me, I am going to use the roll on Ekopel for the tub...maybe the surround too (I have the old 1920s tile). The rest of the tile in the bathroom, I'll use the Bathworks. Thanks.

[@heathenhalflings]

I happened upon this video randomly and I'm glad i did..... ive never seen your channel, and its brilliant. Thanks for the help

[@fast-n-dapper4343]

There is a major problem with your Ekopel test. You didn't apply it correctly. They give you a roller but it is not really a roll on product. You have to pour it on and use the roller to sort of lightly bulldoze the product around, but you really need to make sure that you pour it on thick wherever possible and only use the roller where it is necessary. If you feel and hear that "sticky" paint sound you are pulling the product off the surface, and that's not what you want. I did a 1920s clawfoot tub a few months ago with Ekopel and it came out fantastic. The only areas that weren't 100% perfect were the areas where I applied the material the way you did. Those areas were slightly translucent. Luckily I was going over an old white finish. I'm the only one who can really see it so it is totally passable, but if it were a different color it would need a second coat in those areas. If Ekopel is applied correctly you will end up with a layer with a thickness that can be measured with a measuring tape. I had some Ekopel drip onto a piece of cardboard. When it dried I peeled it off, and I could see that after the product is poured and self levels, it will absolutely cover any color with just one coat. As you could see when you tested the tub area, when it is applied properly it is also extremely durable. Ekopel is a fantastic product, you really should do another video with all of this in mind. Love the channel, BTW.

[@destinyschild8515]

I used it on a 1920s tub also. It was pitted and worn. It turned out great. The only flaw was because I left the home before it finished settling on the bottom edge by the floor and the drain. Even though I had taped the drain very well and put cardboard at the outer base of the tub with layers of newspaper. I just pulled layers off as it pooled on the newspaper. There was pooling I covered with trim at the floor. But for the drain I had to buy a small cone grinder bit to put on my drill to grind some down before I put a new drain cover on. My 1920s tub looked new! I believe it helped my single bathroom rental sell for more because once I put new fixtures in the tub looked new. Two warnings. 1. Don't leave until you have scooped all excess up at the floor and drain. 2. I would think twice if you are covering a plastic tub or shower floor that has any flexibility. This product creates a VERY hard shell and I suspect it would eventually crack with body weight on a flexible surface.

[@harpintn]

@@destinyschild8515 Thanks for the info. I was wondering if it would work on my old CI enamel tub Looks like it will.

[@mycaddigo]

I have a metal tub that the finish is wearing on the bottom and seeing signs of rust …. Will this product work !

[@destinyschild8515]

@@mycaddigo Do you mean cast iron with worn enamel? Mine was very worn enamel with some metal showing especially around the drain. If yours has no enamel and super rusty you may want to contact the company. They were very responsive to my questions.

[@Noname-pq8sn]

This comment shows you didn’t watch the entire video. Too quick to comment.

[@manoman0]

Around 31:00 - Brilliant, love how you speak truth and put things into perspective without baiting or misleading information. Love that. That's why people listen to you. We can sense your genuine approach to things.

[@randalwc]

I agree, it worked great on my old cast iron tub. I use one of those plastic putty knives with rounded corners to push it around...the roller was useless

[@ShaunKimura]

Used white bathworks on pink tile great coverage needed 2 coats. Lasted about 2 years before blistering. I think it was my fault had to of missed spots during cleaning because other areas are solid. Looks great but needed a resperator!!!

[@tinysand3517]

thank you very much for taking time and money sharing with us Jeff

[@isaacbenton2286]

I have been through the ringer with these products while refinishing my bathtub. When it comes to tub refinishing, you really can’t cut any corners when it comes to the product directions if you want to have any half-way decent finished product. The amount of prep cleaning you need to do is so much that by the time you are ready to refinish, your tub will already look like new, so I would only suggest refinishing if your tub is damaged or you are trying to change the color of it, not to “refresh” the white per say. With the amount of time, money, and effort put in to refinishing, I would recommend looking into just replacing your bathtub, as I will not be refinishing again after my experience. Though these products offer an alternative at a lower cost, none will give you as good of a result as a replacement of any kind. That being said, I would stay away from the sprays. They are tempting because of their ease of use, but the results will not be as good (Ive used three top brands in my area: Rustoleum, Homax, and top Amazon Product). I went this route and after about a month of use with dropping shampoo bottles, hitting walls with shower head and what not, It started to chip - and then I went back to the drawing board. I didn’t want to end up with a shower that you have to be very careful in so it doesn’t chip, I wanted something very durable. I can’t speak to the non-aresol products. What I ended up doing is using as spray I bought on amazon which was cheap. Brand was NADAMOO and I got 6 cans for $80. This was my favorite spray product yet. And yes, you will need 6-8 cans to refinish a standard tub-shower combo like mine. When in doubt, buy extra, because all coats need to be shot in a 6 hour period, or else it will not bond correctly and it will look like crap(speaking from experience). So also make sure you set aside a full day for spraying, because you cant come back to this project the next day. This spray looked the best of all of them, and seemed the strongest, and it was the cheapest! But I didn’t want to be in the same boat a month down the road with a chippy bathtub, so the next day after spraying I coated the whole thing with 105/207 special clear WEST SYSTEM epoxy. This stuff is generally used on boats, and it is a high quality product. I used it to refinish a kevlar canoe, so I was familiar with it already. The finished product of my tub after that clear coat is something so strong that I would have a tough time trying to damage it, and it looks awesome. Funny that a lot of sprays say “not to be used in surfaces fully submerged in water”, ITS A BATHTUB! So I went heavy duty with this boat-coating epoxy that is rated to be submerged for very long periods. In hindsight, if I were to do again, I might just think about spraying the whole thing with standard white spray paint, and then putting the clear epoxy coat on top. I don’t know how this would work, because I haven’t tried, but the WEST SYSTEM epoxy is the real deal, and as long as that has a good bond, than you are left with a finished product that rivals the strength of porcelain.

[@laurie6332]

One problem with replacing the tub is if you have an older home. I bought my house when colored tubs and sinks were the "in" thing. I had colored toilet/tub/sink/tile. Oh my so much color! Had the bathroom redone to white. I was going to just replace the tub but houses built pre-60's, early 70's were built with tubs that are 5'3". They don't make tubs 5'3" anymore. They are 6 feet. It would have turned into a carpentry job and loss of half of the linen closet. Had a professional come paint it. Have no idea what he used, but he sandblasted the old paint off the cast iron, put a base coat of something, and repainted it to a glossy white. 5 kids and 30 years later it held up. Then began to bubble on the bottom of the tub. Then it all peeled off the bottom. But I got 30+ years out of whatever he used! Now I am back to my 5'3" tub problem again :)

[@isaacbenton2286]

@@laurie6332 Makes sense, Thanks for sharing! I would be plenty happy if my refinish lasted 30 years. I am happy with how mine has held up thus far, but time will tell I suppose. I will say, No matter the product you use as a base, if you put a good coat of west systems epoxy over it, you will be very happy with the durability. I use this epoxy for all kinds of stuff, and I have never been disappointed. Building a hot tub soon, and I think I might use this as a top layer on that as well (with much more waterproofing behind it :) )

[@OscyJack-]

I used the rustoleum version, worked okay. Looks much better, don't expect it to last

[@josephalesci2312]

The product i use from Big Box stores is Homax Tough as Tile 2 part. Roller finish. The look is immaculate. Least 2 coats. For sinks its unbeatable. Need to use a heater to keep the work area warm while applying. But if applies correctly and enough coats it ends up being about as durable as tile. May not pass an on purpose scratch test

[@hensley7198]

As someone who does bathtubs professionally, yes it needs to be clean, and sanded but thoroughly. 120 until there’s absolutely no shine if you want the paint to stand a chance. I have had to redo so many tubs from people who have used these kits, instead of 800$ to do it right the first time, it’s 1200-1500 plus whatever you spent on the kit. Professesional paint won’t scrape. Pro tip for caulk removal, blow dryer. Heat that shit up and it comes right off. Also please please don’t paint porcelain, just don’t, unless you know how to etch it properly. PORCELAIN DOES NOT SAND! No matter what grit or how long.

[@unregistereduser1088]

Thank you for the tip. If you had to, how would one do a porcelain tub then?

[@hensley7198]

@@unregistereduser1088 you need acid to etch porcelain, and a primer is a must. Make sure the acid hits every single spot your going to paint or it just comes right off, after acid you can go in with a heavy duty sandpaper like 50 but be careful because you can actually scratch it now and you’ll end up with grooves. I really don’t suggest trying to do porcelain, acid is very dangerous for a multitude of reasons, but if you do it properly and carefully it can be done.

[@jsiwek7212]

​@@unregistereduser1088they sell an etching paste that leaves the surface ready for paint application..

[@guideme1503]

Such great advice…thank you

[@emmebot77]

How do I know if my rub is porcelain?

[@carolyncornelius1492]

Wow!! .. Thank you so very much for helping me solve my problem. Now I feel so good about making the correct choice. ... You explain everything so very well.!! .. You are an outstanding Man!! ... God Bless You Always, CC 🥰❤❤

[@melissali7423]

This helped me, we bought a flipped house. In less than a year, 80% of the bathtub paint has flaked and bubbled off. I wash my toddler there every night, and Im finally going to address it. The only thing now is how to get the rest of the old paint job off before starting the epoxy paint.

[@sidbiggs8687]

That was really helpful. Thank you for putting this together. I'm resurfacing a shower pan. I was almost ready to buy the Bath Works until I saw the flood test. I think I will go with the Ekopel now.

[@lisabibby6274]

Just came across your channel not to long ago, I've been getting bids from contractors for a few projects. I can't believe how much repairs and or remodeling is. I have in the past done painting, some tiling and trim,after watching a few of your videos I think that I am going to tackle most of what needs to be done myself. Thank you for sharing the knowledge it's much appreciated sir and I am now subscribed to your channel.

[@chriscolameco6850]

The key with hiring subs is know how long each thing takes to do, and how much each trade usually gets paid per day. And supplying your own materials. I do this for a living and what I do is I try to do everything myself, and if I get stuck, I hire a contractor and apprentice them for the day so I can learn how to do the thing I couldn’t figure out on my own

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Lisa, You can do it and I can help!

[@nowyouareoneofus9684]

Thanks Jeff for showing the struggles of the prepwork too

[@KentHenry8]

Not surprised to see the 2-part epoxy products held up better on scratch test. Thanks for this test and taking the time to prep well.

[@inspectormills3290]

I used the Ekopel2k product on a steel tub and it came out beautifully. Very white and glossy finish. You have to be fast and keep up with it because it wants to pool over the drain. Your mix looks a little too viscous from what I had. You really have to mix it well.

[@mdykstra483]

Thank you for all your hard work and helping us not make rookie mistakes.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Our pleasure!

[@drvr2141]

I just used the Bathworks brand this weekend. I would highly recommend it, it looks FABULOUS! Totally happy with the outcome! Thanks for the tutorial!

[@tw7nkle]

I have used Ekopel multiple times...beautiful very hard finish!! Trying some Nadamoo this weekend. It's a mix and roll. Fingers crossed!!

[@freddy449]

The Ekopel 2K has a cleaner and a small hot-dog roller. According to the video, the spatula is only for rough distribution of the epoxy, working from the top down.. The roller is used smooth out the epoxy for a smooth finish.

[@kanogomez5063]

Great video ..I just did a tub with first product you used...it's messy but when it's done it looks brand new...you have to put a lot and let it go down so it could cover nice....and it's very hard to scraped out...💪🏽

[@michellereed3272]

Limeaway and Scrubbing Bubbles shower spray are very effective for removing soap scum and hard water stains. It’s much easier than scraping.

[@destinyschild8515]

I used Ekopel on a 1920s tub. It was pitted and worn. It turned out great. The only flaw was because I left before it finished settling. I should have continued to scoop excess off the bottom edge by the floor and the drain. There was pooling that dried up HARD. I covered with trim at the floor. But at the drain I had to buy a small cone shaped drill bit sander to grind some down before I put a new drain cover on. My 1920s tub looked new!

[@amyfreeze9772]

How do you stop it from running down the drain?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

put in a rubber drain stopper and tape off the chrome.

[@yusufabdullah9858]

I used a few different ones before buy 2 years ago used the ekopel and I don't have any regrets. I'm even planning on buying it to take home with me. Even though a good quality tub is less than $100

[@sharperone8237]

Perfect, I know I need to do this but wasn't confident in what I know about it. Thank you

[@capnkirk5528]

As usual a really well-done no-BS comparison.

[@luvfunstuff2]

I was just about having an asthma attack watching you breathe those fumes! 😬😉Maybe should've opened that ventilation window above the tub? I'm excited to try the Ekopel product now. I've been staring at our old stained tub for far too long. Can't wait for fresh new surfaces! Thanks for making this really informative comparison 😊

[@phillyformage4622]

I use the ekopel 2k on old bath tubs. re-finished about 5 tubs with it. Its a short term solution better than spray painting tub . the Ekopel is strong and doesn't chip . however there is always some yellowing of the shower surface . Perfect solution for older rental properties. Never tried it on fiberglass . I believe there is a formula for fiberglass now.

[@TheEbc123]

Would love to see a video on ripping out and replacing. That’s something I would like to see and understand as we consider DIY

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

filming this bathroom remodel in a couple months. Cheers! I have the master bathroom remodel coming up real soon

[@isabellavision]

I was also surprised the Rust-Oleum tub & tile wasn't compared. That seems to be the most commonly available kit in these parts, and it's one of the most highly-rated on Amazon. If it was mentioned in the video, I apologize that I missed it.

[@rimidalv7710]

It wasn't mentioned because it's an absolute garbage , they are all the same repackage garbage, epoxies. They will yellow and crack with time.

[@isabellavision]

@@rimidalv7710 if that were absolutely true, would that not be worth mentioning? Some reviewers/DIYers seem to be quite satisfied with the durability. With all of the different options, proper surface preparation is key.

[@Moulds45]

@@rimidalv7710you’ve done this and correctly? 😂 Three years for me looks brand spanking new and I got to keep the lovely original cast iron tub!😮 your experience is different then mine 🤔

[@freyawoodstock2534]

Mine as well. I painted the walls and the tub. When I removed the tiles from the walls years later no one could tell the tiles were originally pink. The tube is a 1940 cast iron which held up great with the tub and tile. We will redo with outlet remodel. Maybe we will try the ekopel this time. But yes I agree the tub and tile worked well.

[@zandra7966]

This Rust-Oleum tub and tile is banned in some states, he may live in one of those states.

[@jennawebb7815]

I have read online that the Canadian version of the bathtub refinishing products are different than the American. The US allows chemicals for public household use that are NOT allowed in Canada

[@RJFerret]

When I looked into resurfacing, all the pros/info said it'll peel in a year or two...based on the cost, I invested in replacing which I could do myself. I've had the Sterling no caulk surrounds for decades happily, so durable. Need to double-check packing/shipping damage nowadays though, they've cheaped out packaging.

[@PrettyTubs]

Hey Jeff. Dave at All Bright tub and tile refishers. I've been refinishing over a decade and have been preaching that you have to razor off soap scum. Its good to see that you've done that. I can't tell you how many refinshers simply just wash the tub and wonder why they have peeling.😊

[@thatrogersmith]

The Bathworks kit I picked up has that as step #2 (after cleaning the tub thoroughly). It says “ANY soap residue present may prevent bonding and cause failure.”. I think I may have bit off more than I can chew with this project. Lol

[@TheLoobis]

I've used the Rustoleum tub spray paint. It worked well but it's temporary. You need to remove all the shininess from the tub. I had to wear a respirator(not mask) close the door, open windows. It was cheap and for the price I was happy with it. But it will eventually start to peel.

[@roelanderson6466]

You know it’s serious when Jeff actually uses PPE haha great info to have! Being a new homeowner I’ve watched tons of your videos, thank you!

[@benjaminschimpf421]

Clutch Jeff! Like you read my mind. We’re kindered spirits! Thanks for all your hard work and changing the game for me! Cheers

[@Deanthomson88]

Just here to see what a refinish is

[@sueharris6616]

Thank you for this. Always wanted to know how they really worked just didn’t want money going down the drain.

[@bathtubrenew]

As a professional refinisher it has to pass a 12 day flood test and then it will bond well to the tub for years. We have coatings that pass a 100 day flood test. Hire a pro, and we charge $1179 for something like this and that’s our price, no negotiating, we have quality products and they are expensive.

[@Denskey]

I wasn't even planning to redo my tub which is about the same color as yours but now you got me thinking about it! Great video like always!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad I could help!

[@marilynm8812]

That means no rings on your feet! Interesting test. Thanks for taking the time to do all that work

[@miltamarcial6181]

Thank you ! For all the great videos ! I can do this !

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

You can do it!

[@shaileshpatel3607]

Very good Video, I wished I had seen before I renovated my bathroom with tiles, Great explanations of all products!

[@DanielWOstler]

That scared me off!! Nice to have someone else demonstrate before I jump in. Thanks!!

[@magpietexas9475]

I'm one to try to figure things out myself before researching 😉 What I did was a lot of work, but only the cost of some sandpaper and paint I was already using. I wanted my ugly old tub the same color I was painting the bathroom - sky blue. I sanded the entire tub and surround - yes completely sanded off the finish. Big messy job, but looks like it's a big messy job no matter what you use. Then I used the same paint as the rest of the bathroom - Behr high quality exterior- 3 coats sanding lightly between each, 3 coats clear exterior urethane. After 5 years it has held up and still looks so beautiful! The only peeling has been on the floor which had a lot of texture. I actually need to do a repair on the floor due to sagging - so once this is done with a new surface, I think the paint will hold nicely there as well. Good to see how the pros do it!!

[@HilarysVideos]

Hi! I'm wondering if you used this on any tile (ceramic? Porcelain?),or just a fiberglass tub and is drywall the surround?

[@magpietexas9475]

@@HilarysVideos Hi, just the fiberglass tub & surround. No tile. I used the same paint on the walls - which had putty over old wall paper. I used Behr premium exterior. The spots I didn't sand well - like the textured bottom have had some paint peel off, but I'll just put another coat on. Oh - Also put a couple of layers of clear exterior poly to seal it. But I don't know if it was necessary.

[@dragonrider9051]

Fiberglass walk in like that new is 800 plus for the cheap one at the box store here in Arkansas, can also get 8 boxes of premium 24×12 porcelain tiles for 300, plus rockboard an thinset, same cost total overall, more work but the end value is so drastic in up selling. And it's not much work if you're handicapable.

[@adriennedull332]

Had an old green cast iron tub “professionally” deglazed. It lasted about 3-4 years before it bubbled and peeled. But at least I could afford to replace the whole thing by then.

[@RebeccaRhyan]

I wish I’d had this info a few months ago! I spent hours watching videos and reading reviews. Ultimately I used rust oleum 2 part epoxy with a roller. I will give my feedback and ask for advice here. I am mostly happy with it -the white is bright gloss white -I did my tub and tile surround with three kits, I had a fourth one but didn't use it because I was out of time and energy but I wish I had - I used foam rollers but needed more or something else. After a few minutes the epoxy reacts with the foam and it breaks up leaving tiny pieces of foam in the paint. I would have been ok if I'd had a few more rollers because you can kind of fix it with a fresh roller but I ran out of rollers and the last one left some tiny pieces of foam. They aren't that noticeable but still. I went through 7 small foam rollers. -I tried to touch up with rust oleum white appliance epoxy in a spray can- it’s NOT the same white. Fortunately I noticed right away, but a heads up to anyone. -About 4 months later it looks pretty good, except for a scratch in the tub and a little chipped paint on one tile. They’re both discreet but I want to touch them up before water gets inside/underneath. I’ve already used new silicone caulk between tub and tile and I’m afraid if I pull it out I’ll pull off epoxy with it. There are a few thin spots on the tiles that could have better coverage. Any advice regarding a touch up? Separately do you think it’s possible to do another coat if I pull off the silicone and clean and prep the refinished tub? I don’t know what happens to the epoxy underneath if you start putting coatings over the top. Is it stable now that it’s cured or will it react to primer, other paints, or another layer of resin? Thank you I loved this video! There is something satisfying about painting an ivory bathtub white! My temptation is to start experimenting with a spray or another rust oleum kit but I am scared to ruin the work which is acceptable now. I used Styx primer and it seemed to work well, if I put a layer over the epoxy will it remove the epoxy or might that work as a base coat for another layer of epoxy? Would love feedback and ideas!!!!