47RE Transmission Removal Guide | 2wd Dodge 3500 Dually | Transmission Swap Part 1

[@chris092183]

Truck is coming along nice. 1. MAKE SURE YOU RUN A FEW CANS OF TRANS FLUSH through your existing cooler lines. This is a very commonly missed step that if ignored can lead to failure. If you have a transmission cooler, I would remove that first before flushing system and do it separatelty or after you know if it will keep up with your truck plans towing/racing/perf upgrades. I can't suggest if your factory cooler will suffice with your upgrades. Kooler Klean is a good high pressure line cleaning product. I have never seen these available in any southern ca auto parts stores so that may give you an idea of how often this is crucial step is neglected. People reinstall dirty lines that have metal shavings in them to new $$ parts. You can get it online or a transmission parts vendor. 3+ cans should probably be good as your fluid didn't look that bad. you can put a bag over the opposite end you are introducing the flush to and retain it to the cooler line by doubling up rubber bands or the like. If you don't do this your truck/garage floor will look like a scene from an AVN hotel room 2. Do not pull the bellhousing to the block by just tightening the nuts. The mounting surface must be free of any residue/grime etc. Burgundy Scotch brite is best...Also if there are any large burrs/deviations in the machined surface from past transmission replacements address those. Dowel pins should also be free of any burrs or road grime/obstructions. 3.fill your verter up with whatever fluid you will be using and let it set at least 24hrs. when you are ready to seat the converter tilt the verter back to about the 9:00 o clock position to drain excess fluid so it wont spill as the trans will get rocked back and forth especially when your buddy is pushing the trans the opposite direction that you asked him to. This should be enough of an allowance to not spill any fluid unless you drop it...then wipe surfaces down for a secure grip. Mounting the trans is a cumbersome task by yourself and even more so if you're dealing with a slippery unit. 4. Not sure if this applies to the 47RE as I only built performance GM units...like the 4l80e, 4l60e's etc, there is an o ring that goes over the input shaft. This o-ring can be torn if the input shaft is used like most people rerack plate free weights at the gym. You want to bear all the weight of the verter in your arms without relying on the input shaft to carry the load until fully seated. With GM's, we rotate clockwise until it's seats/steps 3 times. There is a specified converter pad to flexplate tolerance to abide by and verified with the use of feeler gauges. If incorrect spacing is performed you can cause pump damage, leaks etc. * if you can lower the driver side down once transmission is under cab so it is level with the passenger side this would be more safe and make an easier process. Those pittsburg jacks are really ricketty so be careful and make sure the trans is inline with the length of the jack. I had the same setup and the tie down procedure worked better for me. 5.If you can't get any extra hands to assist in lifting the trans you can use ratcheting tie downs to lift the trans up. The medium size 2 pack ties work. the small 4 packs ties will break. You will have to run the straps over the frame rails and hook them in whatever factory frame rail holes make the most sense, then run the tie under the belly of trans ( i would run one between bell housing to case groove. Then I would run another not too close to the end of the tail housing end so it doesn't accidentally slip off. then you can run 2 safety straps in the event that the 2 lifting straps some undone. I have done this myself I don't know how many times with 4L80E conversions. THe 4l80e is basically the same weight as your trans/verter combo 260lbs or so but isn't as pointy as your unit so you may try to loop/wrap the tie down over the tail area.You will have to assist lifting the trans with one hand while simultaneousll ratcheting back and forth keeping your head in the safest posisition possibly. Remember to lift front and rear of trans as level as possible so gravity doesn't stike. 6. Not sure what stall speed over stock you got but a higher stall speed will produce higher transmission temps. If you got a tight stall temps will go even higher. With a gas engine there is a significant difference in temps, I have only had Manual diesels so I have no first hand experience. As a general rule, 175 is a good operating temp. not high where it will damage frictions, not low where it's molasses. Trans temp gauge should be installed with this combo. Anyway not sure what you know or where you are getting install info from so I wanted to throw it your way as perusing forums for hours only to get advice from knuckleheads can cost you your 5k transmission setup. Now back to searching for my endless cummins issues

[@AllThingsBoost]

Thanks for all the info man. Got the trans back in a few days ago, drained the cooler lines but didnt flush. Need to do a fluid and filter change in 1500 miles anyway so I'm not too worried about it, especially after seeing how clean the old fluid was. Had the old trans blown or had serious issues I'd have definitely done a flush, but I didnt think it was worth it in this case. Just had the truck up like that to slide the old trans in and out, had it level for the install and used the trans Jack to get it up and in. It worked out quite well. Thanks again for all the info, definitely learned a few things and hopefully others who see it will as well. Take care!

[@Twobarpsi]

Great advice 🍺👍!!

[@tahotoy]

Wow that level of toe stepping was epic.

[@Twobarpsi]

Great job getting her out, working on the floor! That new trans is going to be SWEET!!

[@gpv527]

Thanks for the great video! I have a 2500 2nd gen 2WD that I needed to replace the torque converter on, switched to a triple disc as my original single disc was shuddering even after putting a TransGo shift kit in the valve body. I really appreciate the link to the Maverick Diesel site for the crossmember... it took me longer to get the original crossmember out than it did for the rest of the trans. A couple of notes though, the starter does not have to be removed since it is only bolted to the trans adapter plate and not the transmission. Also, the cooler line at the heat ex-changer does not really need to be removed either, as long as you use the right socket and ratchet. You were spot on for the rest of it though and the crossmember idea was not something I would have thought to change... but now it is 🙂. Again, GREAT video!

[@AllThingsBoost]

Thanks boss, glad you found it useful. Good tips too.

[@scottdewart87]

I would like to add to this video, when you are removing the rear driveshaft it is very important to make sure there’s no tension on it. I’ve never seen it happen with a light duty truck, but on the heavy duty trucks, referring to semi trucks dump trucks, concrete mixers and things of that nature, if there’s a lot of tension on it it can pop out and hit you. I have seen people break their skull collarbone arms, you name it it’s very dangerous. Make sure that you can slightly rotate the driveshaft, it doesn’t have to make a full turn he just has to have a tiny bit of free play so you know there’s no tension on it. Don’t want people getting hurt

[@thelagmeister]

Great video. I have a 42re in my Jeep. I don't know if the 47re is built the same, but mine has an overdrive assembly that apparently out of the factory has a snap ring that goes bad. It hasn't had overdrive since I bought it. People with decent powered engines tow while in overdrive instead of taking it out of overdrive which is no bueno. The assembly can be changed while the transmission is still in the truck or even just the internals. A lot of the time I wish my Ram had an automatic, but the NV4500 has more torque out of the factory. I hope my NV4500 makes it to 300,000 without a rebuild.

[@AllThingsBoost]

Bad ass man! I think a lot of the towing in over drive these days is because these older trucks are up against modern trucks that tow heavy at hwy speeds no problem. I'm probably at fault for doing the same thing versus taking it slow and steady, but it seems to be good to go now. Going half way accoss the country at 55mph just sucks

[@Tmmspencer1]

Great video!

[@SCOOUBIN]

Was it had to remove trans crossmember bc mine I had to beat out and I can’t get it to go on bc it’s bent so super forced is this normal for yours too ?

[@AllThingsBoost]

Ive heard there is a trick to it. But I have an aftermarket one for that reason that doesn't deal with any of that. I believe you need to push up, rotate it, then work it back, but again, probably with some googling, I wish you luck.

[@stanleyfrancois3805]

What kind of transmission mount do you have ? Just got a glance at it, but it looks like "off road or heavy duty"

[@AllThingsBoost]

I made a video on it, click the playlist, but it's linked below if you're curious www.maverickdieselshop.com/products/maverick-diesel-2nd-gen-tubular-transmission-crossmember

[@tahotoy]

Great job, but those cinder blocks are just begging for a darwin award. Be safe, brother !

[@AllThingsBoost]

Yeah, you aren't wrong there. Definitely not the right way to do things

[@josematias1787]

If any one is interested. I have a 97 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 automatic Transmission. Im selling it for $1000. It has 24,000 miles on it

[@blatantmisconception]

You know how embarassing it'd be to die under a truck because the paving stones and cinderblocks crushed and blew apart? Boys and girls, do not use junk like that to hold up your rig. When those types of blocks break they shatter and down comes the truck. Then your mom has to plan your funeral with the crying and sadness. It turns into a whole thing. Wood blocks. They don't turn to dust under pressure, they compress. Until they can't compress anymore then that's it. Or... get some real fucking jackstands.

[@AllThingsBoost]

I'm not disputing the safety risks, but I specifically never got under the truck with it up like that. Calculated risk to pull the trans out and clear the tunnel, then slide the new one under before lowering it back down and working under it again.