49-54 Chevy Car TCI Mustang II Front Suspension Install

TCI Install Video
*All information is offered as-is. I’m happy to answer questions about how I installed it! Not affiliated with, or commissioned by TCI to make this video.
CONTENTS:
Tools Needed 0:05
Part 1 - Overview 0:25
Part 2 - Lower Crossmember 4:22
Part 3 - Lower Control Arms 6:57
Part 4 - Spring/Shock Tower 9:53
Part 5 - RideTech Coilovers 13:30
Part 6 - Upper Control Arms 16:21
Part 7 - Spindle and Rotors 18:15
*** 15” Wheel Fitment 18:50
Part 8 - Power Steering Rack 22:36
Part 9 - Sway Bar 24:18
Part 10 Conclusion 27:23
I decided to purchase a TCI Front Suspension so my car could keep up with the 450hp motor I’m installing. I added power steering, 4 piston calipers, adjustable coilovers, and drilled/slotted/vented rotors to my car. Edit I took this car for a drive a few times now. The steering is very touchy and responsive! I prefer a more stiff ride so I put the coilover shocks to their stiffest setting. I'll soon experiment with different damper settings. The brakes are a bit touchy but I think they just need to be bled more.
TCI Includes a parts interchange sheet with their suspensions indicating part numbers, so you never have to worry about them going out of business and not knowing what replacement parts are needed.
After having some uncertainty of fine details, I decided to make this video because I’m sure others might have had some questions too to see what’s involved.
Todd Walton of Walton Fabrication was a HUGE help to me in getting the best price, and working with the supplier when they sent me a wrong part.
Links:
waltonfabrication.com
totalcostinvolved.com

[@vincenthodge2404]

Nice video. I have a 50 Styleline and I'm researching my options. You made some great points. I'm looking forward to upgrading my frontend in the not so distant future

[@bryangrieze2086]

This is the best video for install that I've found so far ❤. Even though it won't work for my Studebaker pickup re-build. I'm using the original mustang 2 suspension that I chopped apart and extended. I'm just trying to figure out how to put it back together. Thanks for the ideas and input it all helps. I don't have the money for TCI 😮. Thanks for the video. Keep making more.

[@TheRustedGarage]

Glad you found it useful. Love those old Studebaker's. Hope you get 'er running soon!

[@hugog7152]

Murray Kustom Rods- best suspension

[@redphill8959]

Good video.

[@brdnsky6417]

You have to use anti seize on the coil over threads. And also to make any adjustments you want to raise the car off the ground or it will eat the threads up on the coil overs. You also need to turn the nut up about 1 inch to start out with .I installed Vikings coil overs with double adjustingments. Ronnie.

[@rmjmotoring]

Great video, we are working on a 53 Bel Air and are on the fence of what front to go with, this helps a lot

[@TheRustedGarage]

Even years later I recommend this same kit. The upper control arm perch has a superior design to anything else. The other kits are prone to slipping and causing a negative camber condition if a bump is hit. You might be able to get a deal if you order from Walton Fabrication. Tell him Todd from rusted garage sent you.

[@edwardvaldez9163]

Where can I get the same kit on everything you used, I have a 54 I'm working on

[@brdnsky6417]

I have installed upper and lower control arms on a 68 Pontiac Firebird. I also have put a sway bar and coil overs on it too. You need to use anti seize compound on the threads on the coil overs, also you need to turn the spanner nut up about 1 inch to start out with. And always have the car off the ground when you adjust the spanner nuts. If not you will mess up the threads. The washers that come with the kit is to adjust the alignment, which needs to be done before you drive it to much. All of the control arms are about the same. Make sure you use the white grease on all bushings. And when you put the sway bar on do not tighten it until it is on the ground. There is several front end kits for the 49's-54's. Just one other thing is that the original front end can be unbolted and rolled out as one whole unit. Ronnie.

[@TheRustedGarage]

All true statements

[@russianyuri]

Thank you for the video ; content like yours always makes seemingly large/intimidating jobs easier to tackle after learning the specific steps. Do you have any updates regarding additional lessons learned after installing and driving for a few months?

[@TheRustedGarage]

Glad I could help!! The brakes are VERY touchy. I think part of this is due to the long throw of the master cylinder. I'm just dealing with it..better than not good enough I guess. 500 miles after I got it all together the caliper brackets came loose and the bolts were rubbing the spindles. Had to pull off the hubs and wheel bearings to tighten it. It came loose again but the car is parked now awaiting another engine. This time it's getting red loctite and grade 8/10 hardware as there's no real reason that bracket will have to come off ever

[@robmarti3077]

I bought the CPP direct mustang II a few months ago. The Cross member is constructed the same with stud holes to match on frame. Just need to weld in shock towers

[@TheRustedGarage]

Everyone I talk to said there's a reason that kit costs half but metal is metal at the end of the day. My only problem with that kit is the upper shock towers have vertical mounted bolts that could slip if you hit a bump and mess up your alignment

[@travisclark5843]

Thanks for the video. Just got my TCI front end to start and this will be a help. What engine bracket mount did you have there?

[@TheRustedGarage]

The engine mounts came from Walton Fabrication. Same place I ordered this TCI suspension through. They bolt in to get into position, but really they're weld-ins

[@brettashworth3499]

Thanks for the video! I bought a cheaper kit and returned it because of this. Very helpful! Do you have the TCI rear suspension? I am having trouble with it. Any way you’d be willing to share pics if you do? Thanks!!

[@TheRustedGarage]

I don’t have any pics, but I do have rear TCI as well. Let me guess-the TCI springs pushed your rear too far forward and now it looks odd in the wheel well? That was my issue. I had to get someone to drill holes through my leaf spring perches I think 1.5 inches forward to get the new rear to sit level in the wheel well.

[@trentpainter6332]

Just ordered the same kit for my 54. Studs are too narrow for factory frame holes by almost 3/8 inch. What did you do to line up your holes?

[@TheRustedGarage]

That’s quite the variance. You can drill out the frame. That’s what I did. I think mine was only off by about an eighth of an inch, though. Also 54 model year. Lots of production variables in these old frames

[@tommytarver2013]

Hi, Did you do the 11" or 12" wilwoods? I'm about to order this same kit. Thanks

[@TheRustedGarage]

If I recall I got the 12.

[@levihorton2708]

Which engine mounts did u go with? I have the same front end and am debating whether to use the ls mounts from tci.

[@TheRustedGarage]

I went with the Walton mounts. When I bought mine I believe that was the only option from them.

[@MrRicanChris]

I know it says 49-up but I was wondering will it work for a 48?

[@TheRustedGarage]

That's a question for Todd at Walton Fabrication. It might work. If you are comfortable modifying the lower crossmember then it shouldn't be a problem. The upper spring perches are welded onto the frame anyway

[@tommy-rh8yn]

What did you do for the passenger side tie rod end? I'm doing this install and because of the rack is offset, the passenger side tie rod out of the rack is too long. Did you just cut the end of it?

[@TheRustedGarage]

Yup, you have to cut it. I cut mine about an inch off of each side, but make your own measurements for sure. Im hearing of different part number racks making it into the kits and would hate for you to cut too much off.

[@tommy-rh8yn]

​@@TheRustedGarage I cut mine 1.5" and you are correct, there are different racks that TCI ships. I was told yesterday that, according to TCI, they have a supplier that ships them a variety of remaned racks and they just put them in the kits. Would be nice if they put a "cutting needed" alert in the instructions. Click my avatar, "About" and the link to my 49 build site. Might be something useful for you. Thanks for replying.

[@TheRustedGarage]

@@tommy-rh8yn Sure thing. I just had a look at your disc brake conversion in the rear. I like the notch you had to make! It was really no exaggeration on the forums that you have to cut into the frame. I'm fine with the drum rears but if I C Channel the frame I'm sure that would make room for discs.

[@cheechnchong4347]

I have a 1950 Chevy Deluxe ....I can't seem to find a rack-n-pinion steering box, can you help?

[@TheRustedGarage]

Your best bet is to buy a whole kit like this, but if you're going the more custom route, look for a Mustang II rack...technically there is no box. Just the rack and pinion, and a few U-Joints to link it all up. They come in power or manual steering. Mine is power...make sure it's actually a M2 rack and not a Thunderbird...I had to cut the ends off of mine to get it to thread properly

[@cheechnchong4347]

@@TheRustedGarage Thank you, i got the whole kit awhile back but, i haven't got it together yet. i got the manual tho I think I might regret not getting power ....can it be changed without much trouble ?

[@TheRustedGarage]

@@cheechnchong4347 You should be able to just buy a power rack and install that in place of the manual. Try to find the part number for your manual rack and reverse-lookup what car it went to, then buy a power rack for that same car!

[@cheechnchong4347]

@@TheRustedGarage ok, i'll look into it ...thank you!

[@edwardberwind8544]

Final torque should never be applied until the suspension is loaded. (Wheels mounted sitting on the ground) This will keep your new suspension bushings from binding and causing abnormal wear.

[@TheRustedGarage]

Good to know!

[@keithmelon98]

Are you able to run a wider wheel and tire up front with this kit?

[@TheRustedGarage]

I need more details, nothing was really restricting the wheel width on the stock suspension. Unless you are referring to the sloppiness when you run wides up front on the stock ancient suspension , in which case yes that’s gone and you can go as wide as you’d like!

[@keithmelon98]

My 49 has stock wheels and 205/75/15s. It’s lowered a few inches and rubs the inside of the wheel wells on occasion. Didn’t know if the new setup allowed for more clearance on the backside maybe with a different offset to run maybe an 8” wide wheel. I really like the Detroit Steel wheels but I think the smallest size is 18x8

[@TheRustedGarage]

I’ll have to measure but I remember reading the TCI kit is slightly more narrow. I’m shocked yours run because lock to lock mine aren’t even close and I’m running pizza cutters pretty much

[@meatyklaws8774]

“Is that Africa by toto?” *joe Swanson voice*

[@user-nt3ch6pf1c]

What did that kit cost? I have a 54 and need to do this

[@TheRustedGarage]

As configured it was around $4300 I think? Without wilwood parts or coilovers it can be in the 2s. Talk to Walton fabrication! He hooked me up on shipping.

[@travishamilton1608]

Where can you find just the spring pockets? I have the cheaper kit and realized how junk these are… really prefer the ones shown in the video but can’t find them anywhere

[@TheRustedGarage]

I assume you mean the upper spring mounts on the front. I got the kit from total cost involved. I'm not sure if they will sell just the uppers

[@travishamilton1608]

@@TheRustedGarage yes, I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find just the spring perch’s. Guess I’ll try the speedway ones cause that kit is like $3k

[@jclements007]

You have a lot of bare metal parts. Don't you want to paint or powder coat those?

[@TheRustedGarage]

Yessir. The entire frame is getting painted

[@larryalexander4833]

Curious about price of the kit? I'm looking at a 54 chevy 210

[@TheRustedGarage]

Mine with the coilovers and wilwood brakes was about $4300 with free shipping. Base kits start in the mid 2000s. I suggest you order from walton fabrication--free shipping I saved a few hundred.

[@ninja63639]

How far below the frame does the crossmember hang compared to the factory crossmember?

[@TheRustedGarage]

It's about the same but I didnt measure. If you don't plan to slam your car on the ground it's the perfect kit. If you do want to slam it look into the fatman kits. They're special-designed for ultra low cars

[@jodyblackwell9012]

And you need a bunch of money for the kit

[@TheRustedGarage]

Yup…. For the money I think it’s worth it

[@richardgalli7262]

You skip a lot of steps

[@TheRustedGarage]

Yeah, not really that kind of video. It comes with very good directions. Just wanted to show what you’re up against if considering the kit

[@luvstruck2733]

You don't know what you are doing. Clean up your shop, and yourself.

[@TheRustedGarage]

clean up your judgement and ill consider it