4g63 Oil Filter Housings

The link to my website is here BUT THE DATA AND PAGES ARE NOW BEING CREATED. I couldn't leave you without a video any longer. I really will have a link here very soon that goes straight to the information. To prove I'm not bullshittin' you... here's the website. www.jafromobile...
It's full of placeholders and copy I did not write. Though I did not write it, the author knows me very well! There will be highly-detailed measurements of all the pieces parts available shortly.
I suppose if there was anything else I needed to say here it would be... these are the filter housings I got my hands on and tested. They happened to be from each of the models of the mainstream cars with a 4g63 in the United States with only one exception (EVO III). There may be variations from year to year, but to be as specific as I possibly can, read on...
The 91-94 housing I demonstrated is specifically from an early 1992 6-bolt/4-bolt turbo AWD car. The one I call 95-99 is specifically from an October '94 built 1995 model Eclipse GSX. One of the '90 OFH's was brand new, and the other one on the Colt came from a 1990 Plymouth Laser FWD.
The Galant housing I have no data on. I was told that's what it was. It may actually be from a non-turbo Eclipse? The 1990 factory service manual has an illustration of this oil cooler-less unit. I've never paid attention to this in the junkyard and I haven't owned a NA 4g63. Do the 1g non turbo DSMs even have oil coolers? You guys know better than me.
The non-turbo oil filter housing is the least restrictive because it has the longest spring installed depth. The non-oil-cooler blocks are the no-oil-squirter blocks. Get how these are similar? You put an oil cooler on this thing and your pressure goes up. Look at the charts.
Put an external air-oil cooler on a 1g? Your pressure goes up. Put the Evo III housing on a 2g? Pressure goes DOWN. High oil pressure can result not just from how you built your motor.
Last thing to say... Yes, you could easily INCREASE your spring installed height by using a THICKER crush washer. That would lower your pre-load, opening pressure AND piston travel across the port prior to spring bind. Could you double-stack crush washers? Probably. Will it leak oil? I'm sure it will eventually. Either bore the cap deeper or machine a 1 piece part is my recommendation. Would I try it with stacked crush washers? Most definitely. Look at what you have to do to remove and port it.

[@Cervan]

I dont even own a 4g engine or a DSM. Im here just kicking around on youtube and i stumbled across your videos. Your videos have got to be hands down the most informational and pain-stakingly detailed videos ive ever seen on any subject of an engine. Although i dont own a 4g63 or one of its counterparts im very thankful for the time and effort you put into taking these measurements and plotting them. If i had something like this on a honda or LS based engine it would have been a godsend. Once again, i thank you not as a DSM owner, but as a person in the engine building community.

[@whatsup1578]

Перевод

[@stanthology]

In case nobody mentioned it, you are an amazing person. I enjoy your vids a lot.

[@derekeklund5352]

Awesome info, just a side note... I just drill & tap the spring cap M6 & use a bolt & lock nut so I can adjust the pressure to what I need for a given engine. I also cut/grind 2 coils off the spring so & have enough adjustment. Of course all my engines have the balance shafts removed.

[@Jafromobile]

+Derek Eklund You sir... are a bad-ass. That's sheer genius. You just gave me an "I wish I thought of that" moment. I have 2 hands and I'm pissed that Google only gives me one thumb.

[@derekeklund5352]

Sure thing man.. do u need pics? From the land Downunder! Cheers

[@Jafromobile]

+Derek Eklund No, I've totally got you. Loud and clear. I'd use an allen head cap screw and a lock nut. Do you care if I make a video of doing this someday? Because this one of those simple genius inventions from down under like the Hook-Eze and I'm man enough to not violate your patent.

[@derekeklund5352]

+Jafromobile Go for it... I don't mind at all. One thing I do also I machine up a small insert to locate the spring & center the adjustment bolt, hence why I remove 2 coils.

[@liebengood24]

Jafromobile I have a 94 6 bolt 4g63 turbo and want to go to an air cooled ofh to eliminate the problem of the oil filter stud unscrewing from the housing all the time. what housing would you recommend?

[@paulrandall2341]

Who ever said you can't know it all needs to watch this guy's videos. Leonardo DaVinci and Carol Shelby mashed into one. Keep the videos coming my friend 👍

[@Hamtheman88]

Easter Monday, day off work. Sitting down with bacon and eggs for breakfast with a new Jafro video. Life is good.

[@dee1089]

I know i am not the only one that wished you did these technical videos for my engines ( 3sgte/ 4age) but I understand that takes time and money.. still I watch these due to the crazy amount of info and how it can apply to my engines.. keep it up.. no one else on the internet like you! Look forward to more!..

[@sivucit]

Thanks so much. You have really taught all secrets that buried inside the internal combustion engine, starting from ROD, Journal, piston, block, Valve, oil pump , oil housing etc. you know what I have been trying to search the oil pump and oil filter routing in internet and got nothing and found only you. In simple your videos will be spoken after our generation. True all good things are hidden and as u said only torque spec is given in manual. Great work. have no words.

[@ellenferraro9269]

Well, I consider myself above average when it comes to digesting new material. I have watched both videos that you generated discussing oil flow, pressure, and its effects on the oiling system. Not once, not twice, but many times. You move rather rapidly and so it has taken me a while to digest it. Great material, by the way and once again, thank you very much. I think many do not appreciate the ramifications of changing parts inside a motor.

[@BoostedBeaverGarage]

You just effectively kept me on the couch for 33 + minutes watching this video. I really can not say that for a whole lot of people :) The funny thing is, I will need this info again and again and again!!! :) Thanks for the hours upon hours of countless editing and soaking yourself with a water hose while it was still cold out :) Robert

[@ellenferraro9269]

One last topic that I think bares discussing the effect of oil contamination and what to look for on start up. If your oil pressure starts to drop below 20 psi on a fresh motor at NOT, I strongly suggest killing the motor and taking an oil sample. If it is gray and opaque, you may have bearing deterioration due to contamination. I suggest draining the oil, add fresh, and start over. All the while, keeping an eye on the oil pressure at this critical juncture. I think it deserves a video.

[@Yan1nc]

Man old videos like these are such a big help I can read but after a while my attention always fails me, video format is always where I absorb the most. I'm about to build a street 4G64/4G63 Hybrid for my 95 Talon TSI FWD and trying to get has much covered in general knowledge as possible, I've built cars before but the DSM's are definitely their own animal

[@Jafromobile]

It's just such a solid, simple platform that takes so well to modification. After 30 years of 4g63 production for over 10 million cars and forklifts, you'd thing someone would start making parts for them again. I'll keep making them! PS: New video at noon tomorrow EST.

[@ewells90]

Hey Jafro, this video was well worth the wait. I doubt Mitsubishi themselves could pull all this info together.

[@francistheodorecatte]

I'm not a DSMer (I'm a SAAB/Volvo guy,) but I'm currently in the planning/parts buying phase of turning a 2.3L non-turbo SAAB B234I and turning it into a quasi 2.3L turbo SAAB B234R (quasi since I'm not running piston squirters, and I'm planning on using a B235R head,) and I was having trouble wrapping my head around what I should do about the oiling system and oil pressure regulation. Thanks for this video. Actually, thanks for all of your videos. You've taught me a lot about engine building that I couldn't really find as well explained and in one place anywhere else.

[@omerdautovic4643]

FrankTheCat Awesome, I actually went from the world of DSMs to SAAB (B234R) and now I'm looking to buy my third DSM soon. Good luck with your build.

[@Jafromobile]

FrankTheCat Thanks man! I just watched this whole video again because of your comment. I think this one is on my personal top 3 best videos list, and most definitely is required viewing for everyone that IS building a 4g6x because of how many oil pressure issues seem to crop up on that platform once they're modified. Even though it's aimed at the 4g6x crowd because of its frequency in our community, all of these exact same concepts apply to everything else. Few of my videos contain this depth of information because they're largely unpopular in the statistics. This video isn't for the weak. It's for the intellectuals, the mechanically-gifted, and the determined. Having re-watched this again 2 years later, I'm surprised that I'm even the guy who made it. It makes me think my recent videos suck! lol!

[@omerdautovic4643]

***** This is one of my favorites, I watched it multiple times to understand everything but it was worth it for sure. The amount of knowledge that surrounds the DSM community is immense and it's great having people like you putting such informative videos out. I've watched just about all your videos and I still learn something when I go back and rewatch.

[@MrKraez]

I started watching your videos years ago when I owned a DSM. That car is long gone, but I still find your videos very entertaining and informative! Keep up the good work!

[@TheDontmatter01]

I don't own a dsm but I still love watching your videos just for the learning experience and I appreciate your hard work on making these videos

[@GammaCruxis]

I've never seen such in-depth knowledge concerning a type of vehicle in ages. This is a strong breath of fresh air. Cheers to you sir, and subscribed. I own a 3G and an Evo IX and may pick up a 2G in the future (if I can ever find one that hasn't been ground into dust). Keep it up!

[@chuckAWD]

Thank you Jafromobile for making all of your videos man!! You're a huge help and inspiration to the DSM and car community in general.

[@brittond14]

talk about scaring the hell out of most of your back yard mechanics. Your video leaves me feeling useless and inept. Maybe I should watch it a few more times. I applaud your efforts and your attention to detail. Much much learned.

[@cmendoza1094]

About to start a rebuilt 4G61 in my 90' talon , with a turbo 4g63 oil housing from its original engine. Wish me luck! I'm learning a lot bumping my head around like a mole though. And hopefully I understood correctly, lacking a balance shaft and using a turbo housing will probably increase the oil pressure a bit but not too much. Thanks for the videos, have been a constant source of information across the years.

[@kevinw2491]

Always checking online for these. It pays to deal with computers when Jafro uploads data. Another great vid.

[@emutlyaussie3633]

Specs from the G4CP workshop manual, for comparison are, for the pressure relief spring are: Free length 46.6 mm (1.835 in.), Load [61 N (13.5 lb) - 40.1 mm (1.579 in.). Oil pressure at curb Idle speed is 11psi or more. I'm planning on eliminating the balance shafts in the build. Will let you all know how it goes. Thx again for the great vids.

[@tehkeet]

Did the relief hole port about 6 months ago and was luck to get 80psi at 7000 on my first try just guessing. All you of you're research makes me feel like a loose cannon, but pushes me to be better. Thanks jafro

[@MrComaToes]

What a phenomenal amount of work! I know nothing about these engines but I applaud thorough and meticulous effort like this. It was actually very entertaining and I watched all 33 minutes!

[@4G63Tpower]

Jafro great job hopefully someday the future community will look back and see how much of an impact you have made In the dsm community keep the research going and long live the 4G63

[@davidbeer]

especially underpants? you connect as one of the best educators maestro. fun and informative😊

[@williamtucker8300]

I love all his videos... I built my 6 bolt 8 years ago thanks to him and still strong... watching again as a refresher ...Jafromobile💪🏾🤙🏾

[@bash5995]

I don't own a Mitsubishi, but I "Liked" this video and subscribed because you are so informative and entertaining. Thank you for putting so much time and effort into your videos. I don't even want TV anymore!

[@spelunkerd]

You're getting consistent and very good audio with each video. What type of mic setup are you using?

[@tomdag7860]

HA HA HA HA HA..... I love the "Bible verse" readings..

[@onedove44]

Need to know how to take the oil filter housing off my 1992 Eagle Talon TSI dohc awd 2.0

[@aleksandrnegrov541]

@@onedove44 dsmtuners.com will have all the information you need.

[@lasermouth91]

Ive watched it 4 times so far and i realize something new every time. Amazing video!!!!

[@JesseFK]

Hey Jafro. Great videos. I recently started watching the rebuild of your engine and they're awesome. My Subaru Ej257 had an issue with oil starvation on Christmas day and one of my cam shafts seized which broke the gear which was turning it, in turn threw the timing off and 12 of 16 valves were bent. Anyway, even though I have a different engine it's great to learn about this stuff. Some day, I want to learn how to tear into engines and these videos help a ton. Keep up the great work.

[@NoBSaL]

starting my moms 4g61...i personally have a g93t gen2... your vids help so much!

[@emutlyaussie3633]

Great vids mate, thx for taking the time. I'm currently rebuilding 97 Hyundai sonata G4CP. The block and front case, as far as I can make, out is exactly the same as a 1G NA 6 bolt 4G63. The oil filter housing looks the same as the one in the vid for the 2L NA.

[@AlchemistLair]

Excellent video as always!! I've learned more about Gallant's than I'll ever be able to use but I love to watch you tear things down and break them down into smaller bits we all can understand!!

[@iconone5]

Reverend jafro you are a dsm god! You make me want to get a dsm. Thank you for having the best KZbin Channel!

[@KCWhoa]

So much patience. I don't own a dsm, I have a b13 sentra, but I love how in depth you get. I want to get this specific on my car, but I'm waiting to find an sr20ve.

[@tommyfacekicker]

so glad i watched this vid. I've been wondering where the spring and piston came from. I forgot all about putting it back in the correct place.

[@Jafromobile]

Oh man... that would have been really, really bad! Great job on your research!

[@alychicachica]

I came across this in an off topic but relevant search. I recently procured a 2G GSX with a 6bolt block on a 7bolt head, boosted, with a N/T OFH, and removed balance shafts. What makes this better, is the person I bought it from failed to wire up the pressure sending unit, thus no gauge. I had no leaks, changed the filter and oil, and put 200 miles on it. Then on the high way, it blew the pressure sender out of the housing. My 1G sensor doesn't fit back in its place securely enough to stop a leak, but a coolant temp sensor does - I grabbed the coolant temp from spare parts bucket and the pressure sensor was leak free on my 1G. So now here I am, with a 90 OFH in my hands waiting to be installed. Obviously not with out a gauge. I've got your chart for what to shoot for on pressure vs RPM, but before I put this on and cause a bad day, what are your generalized thoughts?

[@Jafromobile]

Several options for you... you could buy a 1/8" NPT tap, run it through that hole, and use an aftermarket Autometer sending unit and gauge instead of the factory one. You'd just need to install an aftermarket gauge in the interior that would read your actual oil pressure. It's only 5 wires to install one. Power, Ground, Signal. Then there's + and - for illumination. You only have to pull 1 wire through the firewall. I have a video coming up where I'm installing several gauges in my Hyundai and an oil pressure gauge is one of them. That might interest you? The reason that NPT tap trick would work because the minor diameter of proper BSPT threads is 9.5mm, and NPT is 9.9. You'd gain 1/4 mm of threads all the way around the hole, and it might be enough to save it. It will let you continue using the housing you have right now without major surgery. The 1 sensor you blew out of the OFH is probably for your idiot light switch, not the sending unit for the gauge. There are 2 oil pressure senders on a 2g GSX. If one's missing, it's likely not your idiot light switch because most non-turbo cars didn't get oil pressure gauges in the interior. Turbo DSMs all have them. The NPT thread trick will let you reconstitute that one stripped hole, but it doesn't fix the two sensor problem. You'd probably still want your idiot light hooked up at the very least because it's the most obvious attention-getter if you have an oil pressure problem. Truth be told, the factory oil pressure gauge is basically useless. It doesn't indicate good from bad with an actual result. I'm the kind of person that likes to see everything working, but if there was ever a gauge I didn't care about in a 2g, it would be that one, or the boost gauge. If you wanted to leave it the way it was, but with a working idiot light, I suppose you could find an 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" BSPT female fitting, and put the idiot light sensor back in the housing using the NPT adapter? Yes. Yes that would work. But it still gives you no gauge, though. If you wanted both gauge and idiot light sensors to work, you will still need to tap and drill another hole in it. There are no other provisions for it on that housing, and to tap that extra hole, you will need a 1/8" BSPT tap to fit any Mitsubishi oil pressure sensors or switches. You would need both NPT and BSPT taps if you wanted to add an aftermarket gauge into the mix without using adapters to fix thread problems. So to do it without those taps, yes, you will need to do major surgery and install that 90 OFH, the external oil cooler and the metric - to -8 AN fittings that adapt to your oil lines. You will need to fabricate means of securing your oil cooler. You'd still need to buy a sensor, an oil cooler, and make 2 lines with 8AN fittings on both ends... the 90 OFH is a great upgrade, but it's a lot of work, and those fittings aren't cheap. Of course, you could use the 91 turbo OFH... but it sounds to me like they just installed a complete non-turbo 6-bolt block. For the 91-92.5 OFH you would also have to change out the water pipe, thermostat housings, and your lower and upper radiator hoses because those are the 2 parts the coolant for it is tapped into. One way or the other, it's a big job to get both gauges working because you're going to have to tear it down a little bit farther than doing a timing belt job to install either oil filter housing. Here's how to cheat: Drill it out to 1/4" NPT. Get a 1/4" T adapter, and two 1/4" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapters and screw both sensors into one hole. No matter how you fix it, I think it's cool as shit that you're choosing to tackle this one yourself. :) b

[@alychicachica]

***** I think we're on the same page of understanding regarding the gauges. I do have an autometer manual gauge. This time, I'm embracing the mentality of "replace what failed and replace what its directly connected to" and put a 90 air-cooled style OFH on it. I just lowered it off the lift after verifying no leaks. The ports for the cooler are plugged, because I don't need a cooler, yet, but will in the future and only want to do this once. The pressure sending unit did blow off but it was in the port for the idiot light, but the new OFH came with the idiot light sensor, I'll likely hook that up tomorrow at the minimal. My largest concern is actually regarding head pressure vs block pressure. I can't possibly read through all these comments and watch the video for every question and still digest all the data here but a skim shows some concern for porting the OFH I'm now running due to the pressure difference. My balance shaft is properly removed and my turbo feed comes right off the OFH, with the re-stricter in place. Because I don't know of any further mods that might change the pressure in the top vs the bottom, should I look into - at least temporally - installing a second pressure gauge at one of the 1/8 bsp ports of the head and log over some time to verify? I have the ECU inputs to monitor that with link, using factory pressure sending units .... it would just have to be ugly. Also, thanks for the kudos. You've been a huge inspiration and I've learned a lot and a lot more of what NOT to do. Your video regarding valve angle and timing will be used in a future build for sure! :)

[@Jafromobile]

The 3 oil system modifications I did to the Hyundai, along with its oil clearances (loose) well documented in the Hyundai assembly series on a no oil-squirter no-balance-shaft non-turbo block... I have the perfect recipe documented on ALL of the specs and in the Hyundai's blueprint. Video coming soon. I can confirm this according to my Autometer gauge measuring at the oil filter housing. I can confirm it's a perfect 20 PSI warm idle at 800 RPMs. I know the head's getting plenty of oil, because it's the quietest DSM valvetrain I've ever heard. I've revved it to 7250 RPM with my exactly .100" exhaust valve clearance, and didn't bend any valves. I prefer the head turbo oil feed over the oil filter housing feed, and that's my personal preference. Less chance of over-pressurizing the turbo center section. It can have its drawbacks, too, but not if you mind the head oil port. My Hyundai's head oil teardrop is contoured to a half-radius at .150" depth. I'm using ARP's. I'm using the stock head oil diverter and 3g lifters. I polished the main oil galleries behind the front case, and smoothed all the rough edges in the front case galleries themselves. My oil filter housing is a '91, but it wasn't ported to open any earlier than usual. It was ported wider to leak more as it opens. The '90 does tend to open later, yielding a higher oil pressure than the 91+. By how much I can not verify because I don't know enough about the differences of manufacturing tolerances from one to the next, but if I were you I would not port it until you know how it's behaving. It's not a fun part to change out, I know. You can always shim the cap bolt on the regulator with a thicker crush washer, or a stack of crush washers to reduce the load on the spring causing it to open at a lower pressure if you bolt it on and find out the pressure is too high. If you port it and then find it's too low, then you're in trouble because you can't put it back. I suppose you could shim the spring inside the cap rather than using crush washers to raise the spring pressure... but you need "before" data to determine how it should be ported if that's how you want to approach it. Basically, you want the oil pressure to be 15 PSI and increase 10 PSI linear with your RPMs, not to exceed 85 PSI. If you've got bumps or spikes in that curve, they will be what tells you how to shape that hole. I can already tell you've been paying attention. Thanks for rubbing the extra 5v inputs in. Uh huh... With my OBD-I version of Link, its going to be a bit of work to gather the head data prior to getting my head built, but based on what I've seen so far, I'm really confident with the numbers I've posted.

[@ammgarage]

Hi, love you videos. Although I'm working on a much older type of engines a lot of stuff you mentioned is really helpful and most of the tips and tricks can be easily aplied to most of the engines. Regarding this video I have one observation. 0.0028" difference in spring lenght is in my opinion not affecting the oil presure much. Unless the coils have a diffirent diamaters all of the spring are the same and the difference in their lenght and how they perform might only be caused by their mileage. You may check whether they have a different part no. in each of the cars. For example in classic Mini engine the service manual states that the minimum uncompressed spring lenght should be around 2,75" (can't remember the exact no. now, and the manual is at my workshop) and I've seen springs that where already 0,20" shorter than they should be. New springs or the ones still in a decent condition are significantly longer as well.

[@ODMIJ084]

OMG Jafro. Awsome video, the amount of detail the clarity in the delivery, the thoroughness of it all doens't get any better. Please keep posting more awsome videos like this one. Side note, where did you get the service manul you showed ebay?

[@ButterKnifeKills]

You're the top suggestion to everyone who asks about Eclipses/Talons!

[@351cleavland]

If anyone is interested-Cleaning greasy smallish parts can be done with a plug-in hot-water/tea boiler. Plug it in and heat the water till close to boiling. Drop the part in and let it boil for a while with a lid on. Consider the volume of the part when filling with water so it doesn't overflow. DO NOT do this in the kitchen! I pour the sludge-water into a container. No chemicals, no oil in the storm drain and I can take the containers of sludge water to Hazardous waste collection.

[@DM-gg2ud]

Great video! I learned so much here that I’m not even mad at what I did wrong to mine anymore lol

[@timramich]

Have you ever looked at the technical information manual from 1990? In some areas it explains why things are designed like they are. For the lubrication system it shows the oil flow diagram. The book is about specs and showing how things function, not like the service manual which is specs and wrenching instructions.

[@DJUniK]

You make the best automotive info videos Jafro! Keep up the good work! Can't wait to see the GSX again ! :)

[@RyanVasquez6089]

DUDE THIS SHIT IS THE BOMB, you make excellent videos, you are well versed and well educated. Hell, you should be hired to make video repair guides to cars, even if they are hours and hours long.

[@JPilot2]

Dear Jafro, awesome video, with a sense of humor too! What a remarkable amount of work! I applaud you, because it's well done and very much appreciated! Thank you! :-)

[@Rockit181]

Wow, never seen someone that detail oriented with DSMs. I have a 6 bolt 2g GSX with balance shafts deleted and I see some high oil pressures on it across the board. I was thinking of porting the oil pressure relief valve

[@Mr74runner]

Love your videos man! Quick tip for you, use a container to catch the over spray and run off from the carb cleaner and save it so you can dunk parts into it to let them soak, it saves a few bucks and even more mess lol..... Just think about fire safety when you store it :) No glass jars lol.

[@denelvo]

Or, to put it differently, every shaft in every bearing in your engine is being supported by that one bypass spring. (though the magic of hydraulics)

[@kaiallen1180]

wow, i wish i had seen this before my toyota BSE. Somehow I was convinced my oil pressure would still be within spec. The only way to deal with the oil pressure relief involves pulling the head, the oil pan, and the timing cover.

[@zx8401ztv]

Im sorry to say i understood only so much of your excellent video, but im not into cars and not a mechanic, thats my excuse lol :-) Brilliant video, i really enjoyed that, your impressive understanding and comical delivery made me want to watch it all the way through. You clever man, thankyou for making it :-)

[@BrianHoole]

Love the video! Great presentation... I have a 93 eclipse gsx and the oil filter housing looks different from anything I have researched, including the ones you covered in the video. I can't seem to figure out how to upload a pic so you can see it but the issue is my oil pressure gauge doesn't read. There isn't a thermostatic valve but there is a oil pressure regulator. The challenge is there is no tap for the oil pressure sender for the gauge and idiot light. Brand new pressure sender on it installed in where the idiot light is.

[@Jafromobile]

You have a 7 bolt. If you don't have an oil cooler than it's the normally aspirated model. I don't have the 7 bolt NA housing to demonstrate it, but if you look around on the housing, you can find a plug or a pre-drilled hole that doesn't go all the way through where you can drill a small hole and then tap the pre-drilled hole for the sensor. If there is no pre-drilled hole, then you get to pick where it goes! I mention the pre-drilled hole because every external oil cooler housing from 7-bolt years that I've encountered had one and a half sensor holes. They just didn't drill it all the way through. You have to make the other half of the hole and tap it. The tap you want is 1/8" BSPT. If you use 1/8" NPT and you're not installing an autometer oil pressure sending unit, it's probably going to leak. The threads on the stock and stock replacement sender is 1/8" BSPT.

[@jamesdouglas6748]

hope you take us through the 6bolt engine build process!.

[@McScubakis]

You are the freakin man Jafro!

[@TangoOne]

I have been skipping this video because I didn't think I would learn anything.. Wow!

[@Jafromobile]

+Evil GST HAhah! I've been waiting five months to find your comment and it gave me a good laugh! We're even!

[@iwtommo]

Gotta love a service manual that makes judgements about your life choices Whats wrong with oily clothes?!

[@alexcockerill]

YOU NEED TO TEACH AT MY COLLEGE. I constantly watch your videos and have learnt so much. We're are you located? Ontario?

[@DJDevon3]

Why isn't this labeled as oil housing blueprinting? It's on par with your engine blueprint series.

[@luisjortiz3977]

Tremendo video muy informativo yo llegue a este video por que pensé cambiar esa parte de mi 2G 97 por la de Evo 3 para hacer oil cooler pero no sabía que cada una tiene su especificación así que ya se me a quitado la idea de hacerlo y dejar la parte original ya que mi motor es stock. Trato de entender por la vista ya que mi inglés no es bueno!!

[@chisel954]

I had no intention doing any mechanical work whatsoever but..........i watched the whole dang video anyway! Info + Funny= Me to: Like, Fav'ed, ThumbsUp, Subscribed---- very good video Sir!

[@R6iness]

amazing vid jaf! super informative and chuckled at the animations. wish i was there to hand u an umbrella. and nice bible! you are the making-doo master!

[@wallofcrys666]

Hay Jafro love your videos. I know your a 4g guy but I am building up a 6g72. I do not know how knowledgeable you are on them.

[@fireballmx]

Have you looked in to benefits/cons between air-air oil coolers verses water/coolant cooled housings?

[@QuickJames]

That's some precious information !

[@Squirrely429]

Best Jafro video ever! 😂🤘🤘

[@kjaques1]

If the oil filter housing mounting point is an exact match for a larger oil filter, is it possible to tap a threaded stainless sleeve into the centre and use a spin on filter and have done with the housing and cooler if its not required? Would this create a notable pressure loss if the flow is the same in/out of engine? GM 1.7TD? (Using external oil cooler ) Absolutely awesome video by the way exactly what I was looking for many thanks from UK.

[@tonkatoytruck]

Another great video that was well worth the wait. Thanks.

[@moesix]

Jafro, out of curiousity, have you had much time playing with the generation after this? ie the ones with the swapped gearbox location. I had the opportunity to help build a 4G93T from a CM5A with a TD05-20G swapped into a modernised CK4A-based chassis made much more stiff by Lotus. That car was hilarious, wouldn't stop making power til 7700rpm and had more than enough chops for 260whp & cornering.

[@mohamaditani451]

this is an excellent explenation ! in mk3 supras 7mgte engine we suffer of low idle pressure the fix for us is to put 8mm of washer thickness behind that spring to make sure the pressure dones not leak at idle but that rises the high rpm pressure way too high 100+ psi !!! what should i do to raise the idle pressure but lower the high rpm pressure ?? thanks for these videos ! they are all excellent and i enjoy the technical data even if i dont have a DSM many thing are good to know general info for any engine building enthousiast

[@KeithFenner]

It was an a some 33, and if ever, we share washing the car, you get the sponge and I get the hose! LOL ;{)-----

[@joshnocita4040]

I was able to get one on amazon, used of course, for only $29 bucks. It obviously has some writing in it but hey it works.

[@Vule-yl3kw]

Hi im working on an 1979 Suzuki gp 125cc engien your info about engines help me alot thanks

[@briansmobile1]

It's funny all the comments in the manual about hygiene. Some people must really think American mechanics are slobs due to TV shows from the 1950's-1970's.

[@RaduGostian]

Great video. Respect for the work done.

[@dreams2memories]

You gonna make a vid yet on smoothing out the oil passages on the front of the block where the front plate bolts.

[@bitpixpr]

Amazing video Jafro! thanks a lot for giving all of us this great insight and information, you should be called JafroLegend :)

[@sdsmracer95]

awesome vids! i love em. it think thats the first time your face comes out on screen for more than a milisecond hahahah good stuff! keep the information coming!

[@TheSomedrewguy1]

To sum up, wouldn't porting the exit hole wider only benefit if you are looking to reduce high RPM pressure?? If you wanted to lower low RPM pressure you would make the hole longer??

[@dakiller]

Thanks for making the videos. Just one thing, the voice over sounds quite off on this one, I think you may have one of the channels inverted in phase, I'm only a minute in so far and it is a bit off putting

[@Ghandisgarage]

I.....fell asleep partly through this. but i had good dreams

[@iconone5]

Did you get a new mic for the second half of this video? The second half sounds way better than the first half.

[@SaffordSpeedSolutions]

Excellent as always!

[@BoostedCajun]

Oil squirters...Should they be removed and cleaned when doing a rebuild? Or can they be cleaned in place? You don't have any video showing any procedures on how to take care of them. I'd imagine you'd have to remove and clean them thoroughly, before running the rebuilt engine with them again? Would you make a video on cleaning procedures for oil squirters? Since your 6Bolt for the GSX is still under the knife and all, could be a good time? Anyhow, hope all is well with you Jafro! I'm getting the shakes again, no new video. For a few weeks.... :-)

[@Jafromobile]

+BoostedCajun You should remove and clean them. Replace the washers and re-torque. As long as they're not clogged, that's really all you want to look out for as far as cleaning goes. The valve function is actually in the bolts, not the squirters. The squirters are just banjo fittings, really. No moving parts. Soak their bits in mineral spirits, poke the squirters out with something to clear them and you're good. The only thing you want to pay attention to when re-assembling them is to ensure that the squirter arms that protrude below the piston skirts (on the 6-bolt) don't come in contact with the piston skirts. There are clearance issues with many aftermarket pistons and they can be sheared off the first time you crank it if they're not positioned out-of-the-way. Not an issue with stock pistons, but it's something you should check.

[@Kaxlon]

Thanks for this one! Great info for future engine builds. :)

[@sivucit]

sorry just found from youtube, that more volume is less pressure, this means if I add one quartz of volume extra more than specification in engine, will it reduce pressure when oil pump pumps it.. u said in oil pump video, pump should product volumne and not pressure.. I am trying to connect things, pls advise the relation of adding more oil in engine, with volume and pressure relationship please.

[@RodderFiles]

Great Vid Brotha

[@Suprakidd1]

on my 1g dsm i had the oil pressure gauge (prosport) pegged at redline, thats 100+psi. now that i know that to much oil pressure is bad, that scares me!!

[@aleksandrnegrov541]

Jafromobile what are the chances you still have this data available ? I've got a 90 with high oil pressure, the motor is on a stand at the moment and I'd like to tackle this problem while it's out and easily accessible. Even if it's not available i still thank you!!

[@TheSomedrewguy1]

Hey Jafro, Long-time viewer love your stuff. QUESTION, Since the movement of the piston is determined by the incoming oil pressure, relative to out going oil pressure across the piston, how does making the exit hole wider change anything but high rpm oil pressure? changing the height of the hole is the same and changing the height of piston, but making it wider would only increase the flow at that point, and not pressure, since the spring would move the piston to maintain a pressure. 1/2

[@chop600h2]

on the bolt for the alternator you only need to drop the font crossmember some

[@krip2nite2]

thanks for your quick respond. Yes i understand what you're say with the impression of the hole being there, it just needed to be drilled. so i've checked mine and double check i have no impression of that that hole at that location. After more searching i found out that i havet a galant vr4 OFH and that surface where you have your hole drilled is completly differ. is there an email where i can send you a pic? thanks again

[@ArchimedeanEye]

awesome video, first time I have seen oil filter housing science, lol

[@mikecullingford9717]

Hey Jafro - what about removing the spring cap and making an external regulator? That way you can return the oil wherever you like in the sump, rather than in the back RH corner.

[@sivucit]

Have a question, 1) oil pressure generated from oil pump goes to oil filter housing for regulation and only from here, it goes to blocks, rod etc. this means oil from oil pump will never be bypassed before regulator in oil filter housing. please confirm. 2) If I add 1 Quartz of oil more than Spec in engine, will it increase pressure because volume is increased ?.

[@MaxWorldTech]

I love all your videos but this one takes the cake with the DSM bible. Preach!

[@boxa786123]

hi. great vids keep them coming. one question, on the 7 bolt evo OFH when people remove the balance shafts they say you have to port the oil presseure relief valve the small piston shown in this video due to cold starts and high oil pressure. how much should it be ported?

[@curtiskulppi]

Ha yeah just moved here from mid west due to good job offer... reason for the question is I need your help with something if its not to much to ask big fan of your videos

[@laserspeeddemon]

So using oversized bearings aids in increasing oil clearance which lowers oil pressure? Am I understanding that correctly?

[@Jafromobile]

Yes! You earned a Star! ☆ Oh crap, it's snowing… 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[@amyasseektruth8246]

***** Your videos are amazing. How often do you hear Jafro the genius?

[@jayvee8948]

Hi Jafro! Thank you so much for these helpful videos. I’m currently building a 7 bolt 4g63, and you mentioned in this video that high pressure oil to the cylinder head can cause valve float. Would you be able to expound on that idea because I don’t seem to understand why it would cause a valve float? Wouldn’t the hydraulic lifters (Idk if that’s the proper name) would have greater pressure causing the cam followers to follow the cam profile better at higher rpm range? I have been watching most of your videos because 4g63 seems to have oiling problem. The 7bolt I’m currently building spun a rod bearing but I didn’t build the engine so I’m not sure what exactly went wrong besides it probably oil starve.