4Runner Lower Control Arm Replacement Guide

[@2AToday]

Your explanation of this process was outstanding. And I especially enjoyed the camera angles you used, such as when showing removal of the cam bolts and where the saw blade would be placed if they were seized. Absolutely perfect footage and honestly miles ahead of most car channels on KZbin. Sorry, kilometers ahead haha. Keep up the great work!

[@T4Rgarage]

@@2AToday Thanks so much!! Always trying to improve with each video/kilometer 🤣 so I appreciate that 🙏🏼

[@zigzagry]

2010 FJ Cruiser Owner here. Glad to have come across this video. Very comprehensive, from symptoms to solutions and all specs. This video has relieved some of the stress I've been feeling about taking this job on (I have all the parts ready to go). Thank you!

[@SwedishDanceParty]

Just replaced my lower control ARM this weekend, this video was absolutely perfect. Thank you!

[@cristopherandino3000]

Great video as usual man, thanks a lot for the information! I'm currently building my 2021 SR5 and your videos have been incredibly helpful to make decisions on what to use and how to do it.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@cristopherandino3000 Thanks so much man! Hope you enjoy the build

[@saud4391]

I Love watching your videos before I sleep😅

[@TheKmkmchannel]

Excellent video! you're so lucky cuz your cam bolt didn't seize.

[@keatonwilliams1204]

Great video. One tip, once the shock is reattached you can put your jack back under the conto arm until the vehicle weight is on it to torque the can bolts as well

[@magiriano]

Thank you. Im replacing my LCA this week with Superpro and needed the torque specs

[@stevenobryan1764]

Awesome step by step, I will be doing mine in the near future, 2011 SR5. Thanks

[@T4Rgarage]

@@stevenobryan1764 Hope it goes smoothly for you and let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!

[@stevenobryan1764]

will do

[@jollytime0811]

Even though my 4Runner's LCAs are good, this video helped me to troubleshoot a problem I was having. I was getting a slight clunk coming from floor when turning at slow speeds. My last off-road trip, it turned into a loud rattle. When inspecting all the suspension components, they were all good. I was clueless. It turned out to be the driver's side LCA's rear camber bolt and nut being loose. I was able to give it a complete turn with my torque wrench before it clicked at the torque spec. After testing it I can confirm the clunk and rattle is gone. My guess is the dealership I bought it from, when they did the alignment, they didn't torque it to spec and it loosened over time.

[@T4Rgarage]

Damn, well happy you managed to figure it out. Did you check the cam tab gussets to make sure they weren’t flattened with it moving around?

[@jollytime0811]

@@T4Rgarage Had to research what the cam tab gussets were but they were not flattened. Compared it to the side that had no issue and they looked the same. I must have just gotten lucky.

[@captainsteve19]

Outstanding! thanks for taking the time!

[@nickb1690]

Great photography and instructions. Wish you were my neighbor. :)

[@T4Rgarage]

@@nickb1690 Thank you! 🤣

[@chrisgould1715]

Awesome video! I tackled this today. I've got 175k on my 2016 4runner and hadn't disconnected the LCA since lifting it at 50k. I was able to get the cotter pin out with needle nose pliers and a hammer and then loosen the castle nut before removing the other 2 bolts on the ball joint assembly. But all 4 cam bolts/sleeves were seized requiring 8 cuts. One tip if cutting: if your LCA won't drop because it is mega seized, you can still crank it out of the way with a ratchet strap so you can access the spot you need to cut a bit easier. Also I ended up torquing everything to spec while still on the jack stand and before putting the tire on. I found it impossible to get the leverage I needed with the limited room available after the tire was on and on the ground. What's the reason for torquing once the tire is on the ground? Thanks again, super helpful video!!

[@T4Rgarage]

@@chrisgould1715 Damn sorry to hear you had to do 8 cuts but happy to hear you got the job done. The reason you want to torque the nuts/bolts with the suspension compressed is to lock that lower control arm rubber bushing in place under load. It isn’t a like a bearing or joint that slides. The rubber will be under tension or stress if you torque it with the suspension drooping then it compresses. If you don’t have enough space you can use a jack under the control arm to compress the suspension a bit then torque it down

[@chrisgould1715]

@@T4Rgarage Argh, that makes sense. Looks like I will be back out tomorrow morning before getting my alignment, but at least the sawzall will stay in the garage, Thanks, really appreciate the quick response!

[@lucasr5675]

Very good content as usual

[@2AToday]

What is the mileage/odometer reading on the vehicle at the time that these LCA’s needs replacing?

[@T4Rgarage]

@@2AToday I suspect my first alignment tech cooked the rubber bushings with heat and I finished the job off road. Only 85k miles, which is abnormal. The passenger side seemed okay but I decided to do both sides while I was at it

[@trailrunnah8886]

Just for reference, I have a 2013 with 179k miles on it. It still has the OEM LCA on it. I checked the ball joints a couple weeks ago, they're actually still tight, though I suspect the bushings are near the end of their life because I do get a clunk on the passenger side. Going to replace them soon.

[@LikeOnATree]

Solid video, thank you!

[@rolandoleybag8577]

Great video bro.. thanks for sharing … God bless

[@teamhonzilla]

Amazing job!!! ❤❤❤

[@project_poor_runner]

Solid work brother

[@user-ju7zl6lg7w]

Great videos, awesome detail and explanations. Keep up the great work. Have a question with regards to clunking noise especially when the weather is really cold. I bought a 2023 TRD Pro a year ago with 11,000kms on it and notice at really cold temperatures the shocks/suspension seems to make a clunking noise especially at slow speeds and over hard packed snowy roads. Brought it to the dealership and they couldn’t find anything wrong with the vehicle. As soon as I drive away from the dealership I hear the noise right away. Any thoughts?

[@ricc7665]

Any plans to make a video to replace upper arms?

[@altcode1510]

Great video! It came out late for me. I already had to replace both of them due to the cracking noise when braking / accelerating and turning the wheel left /right. Where do I find the service repair manual? I have been looking for it. I have a 2020 TRD OR. Thanks for the video.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@altcode1510 shoot me a message on instagram and I’ll send you a link. Thank you!

[@altcode1510]

​@@T4Rgaragewill do downloading app right now.

[@RonRussell-sj1zf]

Nice video, it's too bad someone doesn't make a lower (and upper) control arm with bushings that allow free movement of the arms, like a motorcycle swingarm. I replaced mine with some new ones from 1aAuto, but before I installed them I replaced the stock type bushings with Super Pro bushings as the stock type don't allow any free movement of the lower control arm. The Super Pro and I think Whiteline bushings at least are freer moving than stock. I wouldn't automatically take my vehicle in for an alignment after the LCA replacement, I'd check the settings myself first.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@RonRussell-sj1zf Yeah that would be nice. My upper by JBA are lubed and move freely

[@pauls.6314]

when you have cut through those bolts with the sawzall, don't mess around. Get the Milwaukee "torch" carbide tipped teeth blades. The Home Depot/lowes offerings don't cut it...

[@chios1958]

Does your 4Runner have KDSS system

[@sanjuan4942]

Was that a ratchet on the breaker bar? If so can you link it ? Thx!

[@jamessok9967]

did you have steering wheel vibrations from your worn out lca ?

[@rayduffy6172]

How would this procedure go with the Limited edition XREAS suspension? Than you

[@JL76OH]

What websites do you recommend for original Toyota parts?

[@jasonh.9896]

How did you screw the ball joint subassembly back in (the 2 bolts) with your shock decompressed? Didn’t it hit the top of the control arm too early for you to screw the ball joint subassembly back in?

[@T4Rgarage]

@@jasonh.9896 it doesn’t have to be compressed, it lines up. The ball joint allows you to change the angle and the cv allows movement in and out.

[@jasonh.9896]

Ok i’ll keep trying. Thanks brother. Great videos

[@T4Rgarage]

@@jasonh.9896 I had to wrestle it a little @9:14

[@Max-jv3yg]

Great video. However, The use of Anti-seize threw off your torque values by a factor of 1.5-2.5x. It acts as a lubricant causing the bolt to be over tightened.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@Max-jv3yg 2.5x That’s insane! Most people decrease torque value by 10-30% when using anti-seize or loctite 🤔 Thanks for sharing. I’ll make sure to mention this in the next one

[@eugenioguerra5958]

I have a question: in one of your videos I saw that you have a non stock lower control arm. Did you upgrade your suspension later? I believe those were silver or chrome if I’m not mistaken.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@eugenioguerra5958 It’s a lower control arm skid that I added from RCI. So it just goes over the stock lower control arms

[@warmachine1770]

What about dirt king lower control arms?

[@QUANTRELLBISHOP]

2004 240 k on the clock in ohio so it was ruety in fact the control arm broke in half from rust when i was driving it started to rock and i drove it 2 mph all tye way home and in my drive way it snapped on half funny thing is none of my bolts seizzedi was able to get them off with my Milwaukee 12 volt impact

[@ivanm2626]

Hi, what did you use to mount your GoPro to record The LCA? I’m trying to diagnose mine as well but having trouble figuring out which mount would work.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@ivanm2626 I made my own by welding up a mount to a powerful fishing magnet

[@bobcoats2708]

Thanks very much for the video. Well shot and presented as usual. Hoping I don’t have to do mine for some time, but after seeing that crazy wobble you caught on video, I sure don’t blame you for taking care of yours, ASAP. I imagine it is best practice to replace both left and right side LCAs at once. Wondering if that’s what you decided to do? Also, for viewers in the US, it appears you can get the OEM parts from Olathe Toyota for about $300 each (non-KDSS at least), which isn’t as crazy as I thought they would be.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@bobcoats2708 Thank you! I decided to do both at the same time even though I could only confirm the drivers side was shot. Thanks for sharing the deal!

[@ian0841]

How many miles were on your rig when you did this job?

[@T4Rgarage]

@@ian0841 only 85k miles which is strange. I did have an alignment tech suggest that he would use heat which I suspect compromised the rubber. Only the drivers was shot but I did both anyways

[@ian0841]

@@T4Rgarage That is very interesting, thank you!

[@trailrunnah8886]

I feel like you got off too easy not having to cut those bolts, LOL. I'm going to do mine soon, and I'm I'm nearly certain that I'm going to have to cut them out. Your install looked pretty straightforward, but I think cutting them is going to involve a level of headache that I'd rather pay someone else deal with.

[@T4Rgarage]

@@trailrunnah8886 Haha yes. You could always mark it and see if you can move it/twist it. That way you can gauge how difficult it’ll be before fully committing. The ball joint nut was a pita for me but it was doable. Toyota will charge you an insane amount for this job. You def want to use OEM parts tho

[@trailrunnah8886]

@@T4Rgarage good suggestion. I was thinking an Indy shop, definitely not the dealer. I bought the Superpro arms when the last ran the 25% off sale. They're supposed to have upgraded bushings and better hardware. We shall see. If I'm cutting the factory hardware and using new alignment cams, is it possible to approximate the alignment? I'm worried about that. Maybe trace the original cam on the mount and try to line the new one up the same way.