4th Order VS 6th Order subwoofer Enclosures

In this video I talk about 4th and 6th order bandpass subwoofer enclosures, how they work, and provide information to help you decide which one to build.
TIMESTAMPS FOR THE IMPATIENT
4th Orders: 3:57
6th Orders: 6:59
Similarities: 11:13
Conclusion: 14:02
5th Order Video (watch from timestamp):
• 5 Enclosures You've Ne...

[@davidjames1684]

I think I understand 4th and 6th order but my woofers are haven't arrived yet so I would classify them as "still on order".

[@fishfire_2999]

Second order is when you blow the first pair ,6th order they decide for you that just not your game and block your #. Bear with me it's 4am lol

[@gladboy7722]

😂😂😂

[@sc0or]

Everything stepper than -6dB/octave sounds like a single elephant in spring. It's good to break a glass, but not to listen to some music.

[@BrunoPOWEEER]

I made a 16x subs band pass wall that I used for large outdoor events, it was the only thing that could evenly produce loud subsonic frequencies outdoors. This was before computer software calculations, all ear-tuned using oscilloscope, playing frequency by frequency 10hz all the way to 120hz, a lot of time real life tuning and AMAZING results. I started with 4th order then moved on to 6th order in series and parallel. 6th order is by far the BEST, most powerful and trickier design but computer software helps a lot nowadays. I had my subs tuned rear 22hz front 45hz and it was a MONSTER in subsonic frequencies, could barely hear over 80hz but I had other full-range speakers with woofers covering from that above. Also I could pump 3x the rates power without exploding the subs as the cone displacement is controlled by the port’s limits.

[@Dakoustics]

awesome, it's funny to see how just recently companies have started making 6th order PA subs, true innovation starts with people

[@TimpBizkit]

Well if your subs are as powerful as your electric bikes then I've gotta hear a video of that with a good mic.

[@jismo7]

@@Dakoustics Bose have been using 6th order for years.

[@zayreason9903]

Acoustimass had like a 4th order firing into a 6h order lol #Bose

[@eamh2002]

Dont get fooled by the real life efficiency compared to the specified efficiencies. My 15" 1000w rms 88db efficient 3inch voicecoil sub is more efficient at 400watts than my 93db efficient 400w rms 12" pioneer, ALOT more bass, if I had to judge on my ears, 3-4times more. So only if you listen at low levels its better to get a high efficiency sub if all other parameters are the same.

[@PastaWaffleGaming]

Great bit on sub boxes. People new to lower frequency audio AND those with intermediate knowledge can take as little or as much information as they want from this video. VERY clear and direct information sprinkled with a bit of personal experience from yourself make this one of the best, most detailed explanations of how bandpass works and it's delivered with a lot of technical specifications while also being simple enough for those who don't have an engineering degree to understand. Bravo and thank you for this. You have gained a subscriber from me.

[@terryjohnson7080]

r

[@TimpBizkit]

Modelling a 6th order parallel bandpass I have found that it is best to start off by designing a vented box which is slightly bigger and has what is called the chebychev response. There should be a bit of a peak around tuning and a couple of dB dip in the centre of the range. A driver with an EBP (FS divided by Qes) of between 100 and 120 for tunings in the 35 to 40 Hz range and lower if you want to tune lower. Once this is set up on the simulator (I use hornresp) the second chamber should be around half the size and tuned twice as high. If the lower tuned portion is about a third larger than a flat vented box (so the total can is about twice the volume) then you will get a flat response but if you go a bit smaller you will have a slight rising response which is okay to save space in a car and will level out with cabin gain.

[@robwithrbk]

Thomas Jester Tarulli of team orion has/had a (6) 15" sub system in a 6th order that is very high output with a wide frequency response. It's quite legendary his performance. His set up is 1:1 and tuned at 25 and 50hz. As always it seems it's about trial and error as each car/home is so different.

[@kylewilson9809]

great video! very informative and really helped breakdown the differences.

[@transkryption]

So glad you included the graphs! Love the data to back up the theory

[@vaikeaa]

Just a heads up guys: WinISD cannot simulate series tuned 6th orders.

[@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS]

What program do you recommend for series tuned 6th order?

[@jessied733]

@@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS you can check out bassbox pro 6

[@davidspl]

Hey man I appreciate this video's explication of the 4 th order & 6 th order keep the good video coming.

[@juststuff5216]

Just in case you missed this: Audio Dynamics SoundVlog - Counting Enclosure Orders - kzbin.info/www/bejne/amLLdYWPpb-Ag6c 5 Enclosures You've Never Heard Of - kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYvEg4SKaLepl9k

[@Hertzsogood219]

I'm debating a 6th or a 4th. Really good info on the 6th Order enclosure.

[@robertkurtz7587]

Will never go back

[@Hertzsogood219]

@@robertkurtz7587 From a 4th or 6th?

[@juhopeltola3993]

4th order is suprisingly usefull. Good transients and good lows. Remember lpf, lot of times peoples forget that. Box don't need to be only lpf, and sub doesen't need to go high. I wouln't build 6th order to home system ever.

[@juhopeltola3993]

Imay have missed a point to be as loud as possible at 1 note. sorry.

[@Bassotronics]

I personally use a compact chamber almost the same size as the subwoofer itself but with a very long port tube (4" diameter x 90" long Approx. in my vehicle). Goes down to 10hz loudly. :)

[@Bassotronics]

BASSN SANE I always tell people that the vids do not do justice to the sound. But I do have a few pictures on Facebook of it.

[@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS]

Id love to hear that design

[@zacharyhafer2806]

That makes a very inefficient enclosure for reproducing lows that anybody would consider loud...... I did the basic math on it assuming you used .1-.2 of a cube, with your suggested port length the tuning would be entirely too high to effectively play 10hz without sounding like a wet fart and unloading the sub so "I will take things that didnt happen for $600, Alex"

[@Bassotronics]

@@zacharyhafer2806 With all due respect, if the enclosure was so bad I would not make it in the first place; in fact it’s my favorite enclosure for playing infrasonics which is what it’s mainly designed for. “I will educate those who have no experience for $1000 Alex”. Here’s a video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJa2dGN5ZrdpqsU

[@undercut3494]

No matter what you do..it's still a bandpass Box..bigger the box..bigger the booom..keep it simple.. good vid though..ovah.

[@adaboy4z]

Thanks helped me understand more about Qts and 4th order. I'm working on a 4th order for a JL 12W6 for fun!

[@Ichabod_Jericho]

How did your build turn out? If it’s monstrous I’ll put the same in my civic.

[@adaboy4z]

@@Ichabod_Jericho I scrapped it and went a massive audio 12. It can handle more power and hit way harder deeper bass. Sold that W6.

[@Ichabod_Jericho]

adaboy4z I knew it! Part of me wants to go JL, part of me knew big brand names have cheaped out

[@adaboy4z]

@@Ichabod_Jericho Don't get me wrong that JL W6 is a beast on 600 watts but there are better subs for cheaper and can handle more power. I already had a Kicker KXA800.1 amp and a Kicker KX1200.1 so it was natural to use that power!!!

[@brotharobmusic]

Bro, with all do respect you just gave everyone false information!!! If I have a bandpass subwoofer and want to put it in a standard basspass box which is a 1:1 ratio. That means IF I MAKE MY SEAL SIDE 1.5CUFT THEN MY PORTED SIDE WILL BE 1.5CUFT "EQUAL VOLUME", 1:2 ratio means if my seal is 1.5CUFT THEN MY PORTED SIDE WILL BE "DOUBLE THE VOLUME" 3CUFT.... The only thing you got right is the longer the port, the lower the subwoofer can drop. PORTS PLAY AT TUNING OR ABOVE!!! Anything below the tuning is lost by 3db and as it goes below the tuning it loses control over the cone. I'm not trying to be mean or rude but I don't want you walking around with the wrong info. I don't know you, you could be a world class box builder just wording the shit wrong. I been installing since the 90s and I learn alot over the years building enclosures and making bass tracks. I'm not the best but I'm a damn good installer. My wife wants me to start back installing but overall I admire your passion for it, I lost mines years ago

[@Dakoustics]

Sorry for the length of this response, but I fully respect you wanting the right information out there, so heres a few things. 1. Regarding the 1:1 and 1:2 ratio, you didn't point out anything I got wrong. 2. Ports dont play at tuning or above: Take a sub box tuned to 40Hz, play 80Hz, no air will move through the port. Plug the port, theres no difference in output. The only thing making sound is the speaker itself, I'm guessing you know ported boxes can play up to 500Hz even, but at that point its only the subwoofer itself. Ports in 4th orders and 6th orders are responsible for ALL the sound, so you only hear what air moves through the port. So, from what I can tell you're super used to how ported boxes work, which does play from tuning and above, and loses control below port tuning, but 4th orders act like a mirror effect, and do everything opposite, play port down, have control below port tuning etc. But yeah I get being bored of installing, if you haven't done it in a few years have a look at some integrated systems which take a digital output from the stock touchscreen stereo, theres still a want for after-market systems. Also, bunch of cheap, good class D amps, maybe just having a look at some newer hardware will get your imagination and passion going. Anyway let me know if you got what I mean, I've done a ton of research, experiments, thought experiments, simulations, you name it, I would never spread false information, the "sealed v ported" video was originally made to correct false information which I saw in another video.

[@brotharobmusic]

@@Dakoustics you're good bro I love reading lol, I meant to say they play at tuning and above but yea I'm working on getting 6 15" in a 4th. Man between 1998-2008 all I build was 4th. I built a 6th but it sounded like shit. My dumb ass made the port same length and width lmao

[@daytrace4635]

your 6th order(series) can do this, this is something he does not mention, if you have your ports not firing directly into eachother, you can tune to same freq and be skullcrushingly loud, I have done it a few times with a 1:1.25/1.5 ratio for customers, one of them has gotten 145 with 2 8s at 40hz (believe he said 2k burp but I could be wrong with that) bc of it, Idk if it was a kick score but damn impressive considering my one 15 in a ported box is at 146 at around 5k lol

[@randomtube8226]

A series 6th order is similar to a tapped horn design.

[@stevereitnauer8406]

I had a single 12 Orion XTR in a 6th order box in the early 90’s, it was ridiculously loud. Everyone swore I had more than 1 sub. Sound was sorta boomy.

[@TheAlanFish]

I built a 1:3 6th order bandpass with dual12s in an isobaric arrangement for my cousin's 1990 VW Corrado back in the mid nineties. That thing was ridiculous in the amount of output you could get out of it in such a small car. 130 dB or so if I remember correctly The 1:3 ratio also created an interesting big box on the bottom, small box on top sort of shape that gave me room to integrate an amplifier rack for the two Soundstream Reference 500s into one side of the top for a nice clean install. Took a while to figure out how to package it all into the small trunk and still leave some luggage room, and the final design literally came to me in a dream, the only time that has ever happened in my life. It wasn't the most audiophile solution I have ever come across, but it actually sounded cleaner than I would have guessed going in. Was difficult to balance the sound though, as the sub seem to be WAY more efficient than the front stage. Unfortunately some thieves took advantage of the clever packaging and made off with the whole thing after smashing the rear glass a few years later.

[@Dakoustics]

Yeah, car audio is a popular target for thieves. The 6th in my trunk would likely but a thiefs back out, and the amps are under it. Kind of bitter sweet, half the reason I'm into audio is because of the 15" sub my brother gave me, which was the only audio component from his car which wasn't taken.

[@TheAlanFish]

@@Dakoustics Yeah, there were certainly more than one of them when they hit my cousin's car. You would have to be one of those world's strongest man types to make off with a large, awkwardly shaped object weighing roughly 150 lbs on your own. :) He actually found out who it was through the grapevine on his college campus, and there were three of them if I remember correctly. Couldn't prove it unfortunately though.

[@princenoa1906]

Just built a 6th order bandpass i just notice its canceling lower frquencies then i try to sealed one port and i like the sound much more fuller sounds but still it have a downside when i play higher beats i cannot feel any impact the punchy hard bass

[@juggsforlife1]

DJ RUSSTICALS Vs your box

[@ilfaraone91]

Lol, he's gonna rip it apart 😂

[@agghell224]

one of the most interesting videos i ve ever seen !!!

[@djjjs7375]

I've been a bass head for over 30 years. I've been building sealed and ported subwoofers and full range enclosures (bookshelves, towers, etc) all along. I understand this pretty well through trial and error, then after college, and the advent of the internet, I got pretty dangerous, but never liked reading and most youtubers have at least a small amount of ignorance and arrogance. This video seems really solid to me. Unlike college, i can go back and re-watch it as many times as it takes to sink in! Thank you very much!

[@eternityseven6200]

Isobaric 6th Order? Where 2 subs are face to face within the enclosure.

[@Dakoustics]

Yeah, 6th orders are generally the biggest boxes, so doing isobarik can save some space

[@danielmiller4492]

4th order hits lower frequency than 6th. And tighter and more accurate sound.

[@tony187soundproof5]

I have a sundown x15 v.3 should I put that in a 4th or 6th order

[@Dakoustics]

From the specs on the website, if you've got the Dual 2 ohm, either, really up to you. If you've got the dual 4 Ohm, 4th order would be preferred, but still either or. They have a good multipurpose spec.

[@jasonjackson3114]

The qts figure of a driver tells us the electromechanical damping and amplitude or bias of the system towards resonance (Higher qts means less damped and more biased towards resonance). Lower qts i.e below 0.4 are best for ported or bandpass if there is no eq. because they have a "damp" resonance). QTS and resonant frequency can vary greatly after burn-in, temperature and humidity. For example, a raw Peerless xls 10 measured- QTS 0.38 FS-37hz VAS- 25l. After burn-in for 15 minutes with a 25hz signal (the voice coil former almost hitting the back plate, though not quite) QTS- 0.32 FS- 26hz VAS- 79 litres! - no kidding.

[@lewisgoudy863]

Q is the ratio of reactance to resistance. It stands for "quality" because a century ago good radio transmission, and good radio reception, required antennas that delivered as much energy to the radio signal, and from the signal to the receiver, as possible--the resistance was a parasitic loss spent heating up copper. Since the thermal dissipation is (current squared) times (resistance), increasing Q meant arranging things so that current was low (so voltage high) and there were few and ineffective ways for the electrical signal to get converted to heat (both on the way out of the station and on the way into the listener's home. The claim that low Q drivers have a peakier response is incorrect. The maximally flat amplitude response vs frequency is obtained at Q = 2^^-.5 = .707 = sine 45 degrees (Butterworth); maximal phase accuracy Q = .57 (Bessel); maximal transient accuracy Q = .5 (Linkwitz); maximal efficiency (NOT sensitivity which is usually called efficiency but is not dimensionless as is every efficiency) at Q = 1.1 (Chebychev). Any value of Q greater than unity will exhibit ringing and overshoot. This was all worked out by the Australian mechanical engineer A.N. Thiele and his grad student R. Small and published in IEEE Transactions in 1961 (later republished in the Journal of the Acoustic Engineering Society in 1971 and 1972). Thiele realized that it was necessary to either transform all the electrical quantities into their mechanical analogs, or vice versa, in order to encompass both in a single framework that would enable the well-developed machinery of filter theory to be used. Unsurprisingly, being a ME he chose the former and--regrettably--published in the leading EE journal. By the time the word got passed quite a lot came and went: the Beatles, Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Cream, and Woodstock. Oh well. Note that total system Q (Qts) depends on the electrical and mechanical Qs (Qes and Qms) of the driver only--which varies widely (15% and sometimes much more) but is independent of the enclosure. Putting a loudspeaker mechanism in an enclosure raises the Q. You are stuck with it when the driver is unpacked--the only way to lower it is via equalization (the Linkwitz transform). The Qs I listed are in-the-box Qs, which you have some control over (a smaller box yields a stronger air spring which is more capacitive reactance, similarly a larger port yields a more massive plug of coupled air, which is an inertance yielding inductive reactance--like a flywheel.

[@PBasschannel]

I figured out an interesting thing when I tried to design a parallel-tuned 6th order bandpass box, but I dont know that the designer I'm using (speakerboxlite.com) is OK for designing a 6th order bandpass box or not, because if I try out a standard ratio box with normal tuning frequencies - like for example 30 and 50-60 Hz, the cone displacement graph (the woofer's excursion) will be crazy + totally different like for example in WinISD. So, my first question is: in your opinion is speakerboxlite.com usable for designing a parallel-tuned 6th order bandpass box? I'm asking this, because I know that for simple sealed and vented box it is good - I built both types of boxes using this designer, and they are sounding a working fine up to today, just I'm sceptical when it comes to design bandpass boxes using speakerboxlite... So, what I figured out using speakerboxlite is next: if I tune super-high the high-chamber (above 200 or 300 Hz), this chamber works like an excursion-restrictor (cone displacement graph), so it allows to make higher net volume and/or lower tuning for low-chamber. Then, if I tune the high-chamber higher, and/or I increase it's net volume, it restricts the excursion even more, etc... So I think that it will work like this: the low-tuned chamber is the active chamber - for sounding, and the high tuned chamber is the passive chamber - for excursion / power control. And I think this excursion restriction is the reason too for higher group delay, because if I simulate the low-tuned chamber's net volume and tuning frequency as a simple vented box, the group delay is less, but the woofer's excursion is higher. So, this is my second question: it is possible that a parallel-tuned 6th order bandpass box can work like this + this "my theory" is OK, or not? This is a simulation (graphs) for those things what I explained above: red - the low-chamber as a simple vented box, green - 30/50 Hz, blue - 30/60 Hz, yellow: 6th order box with 300+ Hz tuned high-chamber: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/f63b6c1c22086b6c467566a416d20b930e5fbb2c055e4ddc0e7e048a80c21043/tab-graphs . This is a complete design (description, 3D, quoted drawings, etc...) what I've done just today: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/13537/tab-info .

[@Dakoustics]

Yeah, seems very odd, not sure what error is happening there. Probably use WinISD, I used it for my 6th and the thing is fantastic. Hornresp is very accurate also, and I've done some comparisons between WinISD and Hornresp and they were quite similar. Interesting observation though, I'm guessing it has something to do with cone damping, and possibly the high tuned box is acting practically like a sealed chamber to damp and control driver movement.

[@PBasschannel]

@@Dakoustics , thanks for your answer. Cone damping - maybe the super-high tuned high-chamber works like you wrote, because I tried it once in WinISD, and the driver had very similar (but not the same) movement in simulations like in speakerboxlite's simulator...and overall all graphs were similar but not the same... So at 4th order banpass the sealed chamber is for low bass, and this is the "main driver movement controller" too, and at 6th order bandpass like this the chamber for low bass is ported too, and this chamber is the "secondary driver movement controller" - this is the main difference in my opinion, just at 4th order bandpass you may not need to tune the high-chamber up to a super-high frequency - so that is the reason why I think that at a 6th order bandpass like this the low-chamber is the "active" chamber - this sounds, and the high-chamber is "passive" - this just controls the driver's movement... In your opinion this theory is OK, or I am totally wrong?

[@PBasschannel]

@@Dakoustics , I made a test-project in WinISD using the same woofer like in those projects what I shared with you before. I downloaded the speaker file from here: www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Dayton/DCS165-4 . In WinISD I simulated an 1:1 ratio 2.7 / 2.7 Liters net volume box with 245.3 / 25.9 Hz tuning frequencies. On 100.0 Watts signal - which is the woofer's RMS power - it reached but not overpassed the Xmax at 20 Hz and higher frequencies. Then if I decreased the high-chamber's volume, or decreased it's tuning frequency, it worked similar like in speakerboxlite's simulator - overpassed the Xmax at 60ish frequencies, but if I decreased the tuning frequency more, the driver's movement started to decrease too - this not works on speakerboxlite's simulator. Btw, this box have very similar results on speakerboxlite too, even acceptable driver movement, and the movement itself is quiet comparable with WinISD's if I use the max power of the woofer on speakerboxlite - 200 Watts - but maybe it is a wrong idea... So, here is the test project: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/eb7b77b8f2976f30973ed36da8318ab7f9f168f5ba0de70907f880e1456886b1/tab-info , WinISD counted out shorter ports (maybe different constants for air density / ambient temperature, etc...), but less than 10 m/s vent air velocities between 20 and 60 Hz (official sub-bass range). The box itself is buildable with relatively acceptable outer dimensions (at least for me), but maybe too complicated for somebody...

[@tiffanynicole7260]

You helped make my mind what style box to build. I’m doing 3 4ohm dvc.15 Skar DDX 6th order 25hz and 50hz with a sundown salt 4k at .67 ohm. With some lithium and a 350 amp alternator to Supply the juice. Should wake those subs up nicely. I can’t wait

[@rickytrevino8281]

I have a ported box tuned at 34 around 4.5cuft but barely any songs get that low and everything above 40hz sounds super muddy and bad Was thinking about just putting a sealed enclosure over the speaker and make a 4th order but might just cut the box and make it around 3cuft

[@2strokediaries]

When i was a kid 12 or 13 yo i salvaged a 4 inch woofer that i used in cardboard boxes, it was nowhere near powerful enough but once i made a 6th order bandpass enclosure out of cardboard and it sounded like shit on almost every song but there was this one song (lil wayne - kush) and when it starts there is a very low bass note, and that shook the whole room, it didn't worked on any other song. It was really fun times, none of my friends thought building cardboard enclosures was fun. But i had the time of my life.

[@91rickstar]

+Dakchen Games @Dakchen Games I actually have a 6th order parallel bandpass with a Sundown Audio Ev2-12 which is really good for a hi fi or home cinema set up the motor design is really good you don’t have to worry about the voice coil bottoming out Which is good for a person to buy a 1st subwoofer and dose not have to worry about the power used because of the non bottoming out and the subwoofer is underrated it’s raited at 500wrns put it been getting 750wrms clean power don’t worry Brian chamberlain told me it’s ok to run it at 750wrms just don’t go much above 750wrms The enclosure top end has 75.5L and tuned at 50hz and bottom end has 50L and tuned at 26hz I’m running the subwoofer with a INuke 1000DSP with a WRMS limit to 760WRMS Bridge it also has active crossover at 80hz And a active EQ set from 90hz to 10hz on a 18db bandpass roll off why 90hz because of the deeper roll off I wanted the 80hz louder compared to the EQ set at 80hz the 10hz rolls off to around 5hz at the bottom of the curve I hear the beams in the roof vibrate at around 30hz and so does my next doors windows lol It’s really good to listen to music with it even better watching movies I’ve owned subwoofers before but nothing like this.

[@undercut3494]

In my day we call those bandpass boxs

[@Dakoustics]

And in my day people are lazy and shorten things as much as possible. I mention bandpass in the video, but 99% of the time when 4th order or 6th order is mentioned bandpass comes to mind rather than bass reflex.

[@NearZoneSiona]

I think about 6th order wall 1:1 (200l/200l). It would be for two DD audio 9918f on Soundigital 12k. Rear chamber tune to 25hz and front to 55hz. I have hatchback (skoda felicia). Its good idea to make this 6th order wall or choose normal bassreflex with +- 350l and tune it about 42hz?

[@Dakoustics]

100L each for 18" subs in the rear is pretty small, but 6000w each is a good amount of power, so a smaller box should prevent too much excursion. I'd go 6th order. Not sure what kind of constraints you have, but you'd get a bit more efficiency down low if you make a bigger rear chamber, 300L; on DD's website they suggest 5 cu ft, which is 140L as minimum suggested for an 18", but joniK's got 8 15s in a 450L box so it's not law.

[@NearZoneSiona]

@@Dakoustics So rear chamber 300L tune to 25hz, front chamber 200l and work on front port until it will play good? Also changing front port will change my peak right? I want to play low but at least have 150db+ on windshield.

[@Dakoustics]

@@NearZoneSiona oh yeah on 6k rms on a 6th order wall i'd be surprised if you weren't at 152 at least, I've seen 6k trunk systems to that, all increasing the back chamber should do is increase the lows, the highs will remain about the same, when it comes to the front port the higher you tune it the higher peak you'll get, both db and frequency, so its up to you when its tuning is no longer musical. Highest I'd go is 50, mine is tuned 50Hz and actually peaks at 60Hz oddly enough, but it is supposed to be a musical system, it's 210L tuned to 20 and 70L tuned to 50, and it's perfectly musical, but to get loud you'll want a larger than 3:1 ratio.

[@elk3909]

ick band pass frequency boxes must sound bad... those sharp curves cause very awful phase shift and this can be heard

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

Tline box for the win!

[@Boomie0419]

So, I was a my first Bass show (idk what they're called). A guy had a box that he said was switchable from 2,4 and 6th order box with PVC pipe and some ball valves. The ball valves let him switch between them. How does one design something like that?

[@07wrxtr1]

Out of curiosity: It seemed like every car stereo shop had bandpass boxes available for sale back in the 90's... is there a reason other than cost that they went out of style?

[@Dakoustics]

I'd say size is a major factor, people don't want to remove so much storage space for a 4th order, and if they're willing they'd just build a large 4th themselves. I've got a feeling too that bass reflex boom boxes might've been responsible too, more marketing for ported boxes.

[@CsykKrit]

Italians starting spending their money elsewhere.

[@cfmechanic]

I believe they went out because they had very small frequency range. The old school band pass boxes were very loud and bang good but dont cover lower frequencys so well. I liked them back in the day but preferred sealed boxes for the quick and hard hits. Now i run ported but that is just after growing my stereo over the years i have alot more rumble and airflow with the ported

[@gianstevens7918]

I definitely subscribed, how much xmax one way would you consider 'high' xmax? I am thinking of making a 6x15" wall in a volkswagen caddy, with B2 audio Rage subs. Those subs have a QTS of 0.5 and 20mm xmax one way. 4th or 6th?

[@Dakoustics]

Kinda depends on how much space you have . If you wanna make the most of 6 subs on a 6th order you'll need a large enclosure not to choke them. If you don't have enough space, a 4th order is ideal. If you do, a 6th order is a good way to get the most out of a driver without going crazy. The difference could be 100L/sub 4th order, and 150L/sub 6th order.

[@LenoreMaggs]

often a builder has to experiment in different designs, computer analysis doesn't always predict the sonic sound quality, each driver will perform differently than what a computer tells the builder where its going to play in various frequencies and music playback

[@naanstop6559]

Starting my journey into audio. What kind of classes would I look at to begin learning this stuff? Open to books worth reading but I have a hard time doing strictly online learning. I do better in person. Audio engineering is such a broad term. Is there anywhere to take courses to learn this?

[@djijspeakerguy4628]

I’ve seen dual 18” 6th order pro audio subs that contain 2 drivers facing each other in a sort of “loading wall” like you show here. Basically, there’s a port on each side, then this big open almost horn-like mouth in the middle. (It slightly tapers out, but I wouldn’t consider it a horn.) That design has the most SPL of any subwoofer I’ve heard.

[@Stolencamaro]

25 years ago i had sealed box and that thing was rumbling people thought i had two 15s not 12s wth good old shnaider amp

[@brentlaube568]

No closure type is "better" than the next. It's all about preference, woofer specs, application, music type, etc. Personally, I don't care for bandpass boxes. They may play loud, but have a one note sound. Sealed and a simple ported tends to be more musical.

[@m.morininvestor9920]

Please tell me more

[@brentlaube568]

@@m.morininvestor9920 First, I disclose I'm not a music major nor do I know anything about notes, keys, whatever. I understand octaves, frequencies, etc because of the vast knowledge the car audio and other electronic publications of the 90s used to print. I was a dealer for a time, built many boxes...I know what I hear based on my experience with the different enclosure types. Your general off the shelf bandpass (4th or 6th order) boxes will typically play one note or 2.5 octaves (40-120 hz) and all you hear is BOOM...BOOM...BOOM...very loud and efficiently. If you build one and design it to play 30-80 HZ, you're still going to get one note sound and will possibly be a bigger enclosure. There are, however, several types of bandpass enclosures you can make could sound musical. Around 2006(?), Rockford Fosgate sold their HE2 subs in a bandpass enclosure and they were intense. They were ungodly loud and efficient but pretty musical overall. They were big and heavy, not for every vehicle. Ported (bass reflex) enclosures when made correctly will play every note of every octave between where you place the low pass filter and the tuning frequency of the port. When the enclosure and port is made well you can get great output at the tuning frequency of the port, ...booOM...booOM...booOM...boOOM...and so forth. Sealed (acoustic suspension) enclosures are the most musical in my opinion. They can ne crossed over as high as you need to or as low as the woofer and enclosure combination will play effectively without bottoming out the voice coil. But, their sound is judged by the "Q" or QTC of the enclosure design. A Q of .707 is said to be the perfect audiophile sound and a Q of 1.0 and higher for a more boomy and "uncontrolled" bass. Their biggest drawback is they require tons more power to get loud for bassheads. Overall, you get bOOm...BoooM...BoOoM...boooom...whatever the artist put on the track. Just do yourself a favor and put a low pass filter at 30 hz so you don't destroy your woofer. You can get more output from a sealed by loading it against a wall, corner or even down firing it if it has a stiff enough suspension to prevent sagging over time. Basically, to design your system, bring out a piece of paper or CAD program and sketch out what you want. List the audio qualities you're looking for, requirements, capabilities, limitations, etc. I recommend you read "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" by Vance Dickason. That is a must have book for beginners.

[@victorprudeaux500]

What about an enclosure that is a front loaded bass reflex with one woofer on each meeting side but where one side fires into a forth order chamber. Would that still be considered bandpass? Would it be like a 4.5 order?

[@Dakoustics]

Interesting. I've seen something which was a ported box, with speakers firing out, but also had speakers inside, so it kinda acted like a 4th order as well. I'm not sure what you'd call that, maybe a 4th quazi 6th series, as it kinda acts like a 4th and a 6th. But maybe since one is 2nd order and the other is 4th order, it averages out to 3rd order, so would in total be a 5th order. Yeah, an odd one certainly.

[@MyAudioPipe]

Winisd can no simulate serie tunded 6th Bandpass. And that cabin gain theory is wrong. It no low that says its 12 db. It more like Resonases. Like in mye car i have an peak att 35 hz thats the peak of my Enclosure system. But when i turn it up the space inside the cabin is not big enough and phase of the backwave and the front wave starting to cancel, things in the cabin starting to flex, vibrate and so on. so it start to peak at 45 hz. And this depends on the size of the Cabin. Where the dominant frequency's is. And this also depends what Enclosure you use. A sealed Enclosure wil no behave like an portet solution inn a cabin. Because of the backwave and frontwave wil phase together in a portet box.

[@Dakoustics]

Yeah, I know cabins are complex shapes and sizes, it's annoying having to generalise, but I wanted to mention why 4th orders have bad low frequency response in the simulations but have plenty of low end in reality. But yeah, generally that 12dB starts beginning below the resonance of the car, so if yours is 35Hz you should be up a tad at 18Hz.

[@MyAudioPipe]

@@Dakoustics the biggest problem here is the Ts parameters. You can not backtrack something with something thats not correct. Always when i Design i take out Ts parameters myself . If you take a look att Basskassekonstruktørene on Facebook you can se mye work on it. With Rta vs simulations. Of course this depends on what Volum you are on. But att low volume on your Stereo your box Respons will be most dominant until you turn it up and then the cabin Respons or system Respons gets more dominant .

[@sticknsco]

you got the qts part wrong. the lower the qts 4 and lower is better for 4th orders 4.5 and up is better for 6th orders. the lower the qts (4.4 and lower) means it responds well in sealed. the higher the qts (4.6 and up) better response in ported boxes.

[@CarAudioLoudnClear999]

hello i have question in PR or colombia they have car pro audio with 4thh order without port the question is how to calculte the tunning

[@jjbled]

Oh and thank you for exposing for others about inefficient designs and tuning build heat wish causes catastrophic failure due to coil heat. I've been there. And taught myself

[@olekristianrannekleiv762]

Bandpass subs are known to be bad because of bad designs and lack of understanding from the user. Check out the "STM S118 SUB" it is a pro audio bandpass sub intended for most demanding concerts and festivals. When bandpass subs are designed by professionals and used by engineers, bandpass designs are very powerful and accurate desings.

[@Boogerweldz]

Ole Kristian Rannekleiv c

[@Crookedletta601]

Sealed is better 🔥🔥🎯

[@nedhamnam5420]

Of course 6th Order better because have port flow the air, 4th Order less energy & less deep bass than 6th Order

[@AWThethrower]

Would you class 15.9mm xmax, 0.52 QTS sub enough excursion to be suitable for a 4th order?

[@AWThethrower]

It’s a Rockford fosgate P3D4 12. I’ve got about 4 cu ft to play with and figured I should give it a go, but info on 4th and 6th order sub box designs are scarce.

[@Dakoustics]

Yeah, should work fine. As long as you're not sending it too much power, 16mm xmax is quite decent.

[@luckystrike656]

Hi! I have a Magnat subwoofer (30cm) that I installed in a box thats very similar to the one at 4:02 (1:1). I made the box 15 years ago with no calculation or experience. I don't use it in the car anymore, its connected to my home theater but its not performing well. What type of box should I build?

[@Dakoustics]

I like the idea of a 5th order, so front of the driver is in a transmission line, and the rear of the driver is in a ported box, could be cool

[@hisinvisibleness-fn8qj]

I had a prefab jl pro with a 8w7 Not sure if 6th or 4 th But it was impressive

[@jjbled]

I have a single 15 oldschool power acoustik Mofo with 4 inch dual 2ohm coils. Now I've repaired what we n I bought it for 20 bucks the tensile were burned. I direct connected way bigger pure copper wire and replaced spiders and I upgraded to black flat wound dual 2 coil. My question after rambling is I'm using a ported 4 cube box I built it's a transm8ssion line. I am impressed. But I built a 6th. It is peaking at 22 and not sure high side peak. My sub doesn't move as far as in transmission but it is 10 times deeper and louder. Would a 4th be as 3fficient I am not bottoming out or over excursion in 6th. I'm just playing with it. It's in a 98 3xpedition. I hit 147db at local shop at headrest with single 15 . Is that good or can I get more

[@jjbled]

And my amp is Orion cb3500.1

[@Dakoustics]

it probably wouldn't be as efficient as a 6th, though 22 is a really low peak, you might want to increase the size of the high tuned section, or possibly the low tuned section is too big and peaks at its tuning. Still an impressively low peak. The low tuned side of my 6th is tuned to 20Hz, though my peak is around 28. Problem is there are so many variables all you can really do is experiment, though my answer is a 6th is your loudest bet.

[@jeffwhite8017]

I like the 69 order

[@jamespappas8205]

Lots of info here. Good pace..well spoken

[@Dakoustics]

Cheers!

[@angelohoepel5753]

For sub with QTS of 0.38 what would be better 4th or 6th order

[@Dakoustics]

Right inbetween 4th and 6th, but I'd suggest 6th over 4th.

[@edifierbass7821]

Nice but which one is good for outdoor big speaker party Box? 4th? or 6th?

[@Dakoustics]

I'd prefer a 6th.

[@MrThebrinksman]

Who remembers 2 JL isobaric in a 4th order hot box on a punch 40

[@Dakoustics]

I'd love to hear that, sounds like it'd sound good.

[@TheLionAndTheLamb777]

My uncle is still running his 2x JL 12w4 in an ISO ported setup tuned at 28Hz. The woofers were refoamed with new surrounds and gaskets. He also has a JL12W6 but is not using it currently.

[@StonefieldMusic]

This sounds like a really stupid question but I have to ask it because I'm confused by some of the references I see: in sixth order enclosures is the rear chamber the one behind the driver (ie with the chassis and magnet protruding into it) or the one in front of the driver?

[@Dakoustics]

yeah, rear chamber is the one with the magnet in it, and is usually also tuned lower than the front chamber if it has one

[@StonefieldMusic]

@@Dakoustics Thanks for the clarification. Cheers

[@deonjos8874]

On a parallel tuned 6th order which is 1:2 ratio, should both ports have the same size (port areas) or should they be in relation to the size of the chambers?

[@Dakoustics]

In relation to chambers, though for my 6th the low tuned side needed a port so long I just made them the same surface area. Sounded fine, but a tad muddy, so same area is preferable.

[@deonjos8874]

@@Dakoustics thanks man

[@1117coolman]

Hey @Dakoustics ! i was trying to understand more about the formula for the loading wall, im trying to make a 6th order with so called "loading wall" as you show it briefly in the video, but i was curious, where do you get the 330 from, is it the lower chamber volume for the 18, cone diameter?

[@PBasschannel]

Hi everyone. I have questions for my design - widerange paralell 6th order bandpass box for this woofer: usspeaker.com/rcf%20-%20L18S800-1.htm . The parameters I used from this website. The whole design with simulations is here: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/6ed61dc2dba150c098938fd0055eb6158fbd2d314121c79a459004bec42d3e5e . I know that Amplitude response is everywhere around -4 db on bandwidth, but I want to design a widerange box + I want to maximise out the high 20ish and all 30ish frequencies, and have acceptable group delay + ideal power handling + and the box have to be buildable. This is the reason why I want to design a 6th order bandpass box for this woofer. Using this online designer I designed sealed, ported and 4th order bandpass boxes which are working well in real, but when it comes to design 6th order bandpass using this online designer, the results are somehow strange for me in my opinion, especially the one of the main things: the high-tuned chamber volume / size, and it's port tuning. If I design a bigger (normal volume / size) high-tuned chamber, and I adjust the Fb to a normal frequency, lets say 60, or 80 Hz, the Cone displacement goes up so high between the port tunings, that it runs out from the graph. This is the reason, why I do not trust in this online designer when it comes to designing a 6th order bandpass box. So my question is: in your opinion this box for this woofer will work so well like in the simulations, or this design is completely wrong? Especially the results on Cone displacement, Maximum power and Group delay graph. If this design is wrong, I delete it, and I will design a ported box... Btw, sorry for my bad english.

[@LexusYachtClub]

You know... at 11:19, you could do it in isobaric and fit 40 subs lol

[@Dakoustics]

lmao

[@crustysleet]

If you graphed the 6tg orders as 1 octave apart instead of way far apart it'd make a massive difference

[@camaroboi13]

1 octave generally creates a dip in your graph, so you’ll lose some of your middle end.

[@crustysleet]

@@camaroboi13 every 6th I've ever seen built or had designed/discussed with builders they/me have always done 1ocatve apart for best results. You think 1 octave is giving a dip in the middle a proper 6tg should have no dip it should be a large peak vs two peaks now placing the peaks more than an octave apart like in this video creates a way worse dip because the frequencies are even further apart

[@hippo-potamus]

On a 4th order which part of the subwoofer goes into the sealed chamber, the cone or the magnet part? Does it matter? What is the difference?

[@Dakoustics]

I'd personally put the cone in the sealed part, unless the motor makes a ton of chuffing

[@Dpshort1]

It’s best to have motor in the ported side. This helps with motor cooling as well as you being able to smell the coils if it gets too hot

[@Craneop817]

I’m wanting to do a 6th order blow through rear center console enclosure in a sedan. Would this be suitable for daily music? If so what should I tune the ports to for rap/hip hop? Two Sundown NSV4 15s on a Orion 11000.1D @ 14.8 volts.

[@Dakoustics]

Rear centre console was what I was originally gonna do in my car, though after learning a bit more about port loading I decided to have the ports behind the rear seats head rests, and final revision is in my second latest video. I find it hard to fault my current setup, and NSv4s get down, so possibly a 20/45Hz setup, also depends on how low your door speakers can go. With that much power, smallish boxes would be ideal, maybe 3 cubes each tuned to 20, 2 each tuned to 45, for a total volume of ~10cu ft internal. Honestly at this point defining music choice as hip hop is more or less saying things which get low, so it's almost a more generalised sub box in my opinion, something which plays just country might just be tuned to something like 40Hz for drum kicks, which I would consider a more specialised box. Mean sounding specs though, interested to see how it turns out.

[@Craneop817]

Dakoustics Dakoustics yeah I watched that video nice box especially the adjustable ports! I noticed it’s potted towards the rear in a hatchback though. I’ll be building this box for a 2006 Lincoln Town Car. What’s the benefit of center console port versus port through rear deck? Btw I’m running Crescendo PWX mids and high. (2) 6.5”, (1) 8”, (1) supertweet per each front door. Well I’ve noticed when I’ve tuned my previous boxes to 32 hertz it plays lows well but not much other variations of music. I’ve caught myself sometimes listening to different genre so my idea was maybe a 6th order would come in handy when playing different tunes. Which doesn’t happen everyday but, the idea of playing a wider variety of music with sounding decent interests me. Thank you for you’re knowledge..

[@Dakoustics]

@@Craneop817 The benefits of porting through the centre console would mainly just be convenience and aesthetics, its possible due to the way it loads it'd have a flatter response, though that's just in theory. In general it's best to place the port as far back from the front of the car as possible, so rear deck should load better. The 6th should work well across a broad spectrum, I've only had one 1-note box, and it was a 4th.

[@who.i.am.6549]

Question on doing a 6th order (might be a dumb questionoh well but here goes it anyway lol. Lets say you have this to work with D37"xW52"xH36" then you put a box on each side for D37"xW15"xH36" and port it at 26hz then it leaves D37"xW22"xH36" in the middle of both boxes do i use the D37"xW22"xH36" measurements to figure out the last port i want or the total dimensions? D37"xW52"xH36" that both boxes is in?

[@nathanjames4242]

Absolutely amazing video. Honestly, you helped making the super technical details understandable. I have a question for you. I am more focused on SQ than SPL. I have been seeing a lot about IB setups and the level of lows and spacial presence that are achievable. I am considering a project vehicle that runs a front sub (likely 10 inch single centered or dual 8 inch sealed in the doors) which would be effective from about 150Hz down to 50 or 60 Hz. Of course with SQ getting the most balanced freq response at the cleanest highest levels is best, so, what would you suggest for the rear of the vehicle (most likely large SUV like a Land Cruiser or Toyota Sequoia) to pick up those missing low freqs? IB has is own unique challenges and requires serious modifications but can fill the listening space with sound like no other setup. Is there a 4th order or 6th order setup which can achieve similar levels of presence while not requiring the same level of modification as IB? I have also considered Isobaric as a solution to keep the enclosure size down but i don't know if that is still viable with todays tech.

[@lextr3110]

wow awesome video

[@hyperdriverr]

2 woofers I like are the Dayton dcs255 and the DC audio level 1 12". Both model almost identically. The dcs255 is a reasonably efficient 10" and the DC 12" is a high xmax 12". I built a 60L bandpass for the Dayton, I tuned high in a 4th order, people forget how much bass is above 50hz sometimes. It sounds beautiful and above 40hz its way more efficient than my nvx vcw15 in a 180L ported box. Above 40hz my nvx build needs about 10x the power to match its output. But the bandpass falls on its face below 40hz at high volume. I'm planning on using the DC in a future built with its 19mm xmax.

[@RollingThunder85]

You do excellent explaining I'm just dumb and can't seem to figure anything out I have a DC level 4 18" I listen to rock and EDM/rap I love feeling the kick drum can you please help me with some box dimensions I'll pay you please

[@berlina117]

Hey. Thanks for the video. Im from Melbourne. I built a portable boom box for the campsite, its got roughly 1000watts of low midrange and high, all 12v car audio, Focal and soundstream. 2x amps, and a 130Ah battery, It works really well, has reasonable volume, and keeps people happy. I want to make a version two, keeping all the same speakers, just improving on design and speaker efficiency. I can build almost anything, but when it comes to sound design response, I get lost in the technical, and fast! Which leads me to my question. Would you be interested in guiding me towards a well designed efficient enclosure for my woofers and midrange speakers I already own, which I can build? Thanks, Ryan

[@Dakoustics]

mids and highs would stay as is, hard to get more efficient without buying new components, and for sub I'd recommend a 4th, I've had good luck with 4th orders for outdoor PA, for a 12" something like 28L sealed, 28-40 ported, varies sub to sub. Tune it around 50-60Hz. Port should end up being 30x5cm, and about 25cm long, add a curve in the back, rounding over the front should help too, if it sounds bad just remove the middle baffle, and mount the sub like a standard ported box

[@worksmagic89]

I have 2 soundqubed hds3 15s. What box would be recommended for them ? Also my gf has an 10in hds2.1 and I was also looking for custom box for it.

[@snhongo1]

Hie please can you help me ...i have a kenwood wps1300d and i was thinking of putting it in a bandpass box .On its manual there is only two options thus sealed or ported...will it work well if i use the specs for the jbl p1220 bandpass box?

[@charlesreedy9330]

How much $ to design a 4th order bp for an 2017 mustang gt. Sub is sa10v2 1000 watt rms. Amp is a skar rp2000. I have 34" wide by 13" high and what ever the depth needs to be up to 24". Possibly a 6th order if there is room.

[@penttijakonen3817]

No wonder these have shitty reputation... Even 1 to 1 is typically way too peaky for anyone actually listening to music. I will make one for my next build and the sealed portion will be 1,5 to 2 times the vented.

[@jhershy1381]

In the early 90s i had a dual 8” 6th order from earthquake. I should have kept it. Sounded great and shook my camry and sounded better than my 2 12” sealed similar wattage subs ( forget brand and model )

[@FATHERSOFBASS]

This video only applies to home systems right...

[@Dakoustics]

I did it with cars in mind, though the graphs better represent how they sound in home systems. The main difference between a home system in a car is cabin gain.

[@FATHERSOFBASS]

@@Dakoustics nice... Yeah i figured great video brother

[@glengatt3941]

It's large the box ,one claimed to get 14 Herz with the Marty cube,are cars subwoofer drivers good for a home built,it's easy to find car subwoofer drivers but home it's a bit more difficult to find

[@ManuelHernandez-ko8sc]

So my question is what is best for 2 sundown zv6 d1 15s a 4th order or 6th order box with Size dimensions of the Box as a blowthrough build for a pickup truck?

[@symbolism965]

I got a sketch for a Series 6th Order enclosure… I noticed it had a port within the box, kinda interesting…

[@elephant1851]

I don't believe it's true that (in a 6th order bandpass) if you tune both chambers to the same frequency they would cancel each other out... I don't think this is true at all.

[@renejreeves]

I only have 4 cubic feet and I'm going to cram a dayton classic 18' in it, I just want to go low as possible I know sealed is smartest But if I was to get exotic what could I do?

[@Dakoustics]

hmm, some options, possibly a very long external port, say run behind a couch or something, or a tapering transmission line enclosure, but your best bet is probably to put it in a sealed box, and eq to increase the lows

[@renejreeves]

@@Dakoustics food for thought, thanks

[@undercut3494]

Ported is better..sealed keeps ur subs running hot..they won't last long..

[@waynehollars5048]

I have a hifonics 15 plan-x and I can't find anything on it ?

[@lawr3nc3mann84]

Hello thanks for the videos. I'm looking for opinions for 15" memphis MOJO box. I'm thinking 3rd or 4th order

[@agghell224]

Your videos are great-the best !!! Thank you for sharing your Knowledge.

[@Dakoustics]

Glad I could be of service, enjoy!

[@brianj609]

Great vid, is there a way to model a 6th order series vs parallel because I don’t see that option in WinISD?

[@Dakoustics]

Reports say HornResp, but I haven't had a good enough dive into the program to work out how.

[@rogersingh3918]

Bass Box Pro

[@AZTechLabs]

position of a box inside a vehicle adds to the ratio which i never find anyone seems to know about. ex: speakers in a trunk try positioning the speakers towards the back horizontal about 6 inches away from the back vs turned around to the front.

[@mistanotu8791]

Hey my subwoofer has high qts and I don't think 15mm is a high excursion basically im asking if you think I should build a 4th or 6th order for em? I got 2 alpine type s I want to build a box for

[@Dakoustics]

excursion is usually stated one-way, so its 30mm total, a 4th order should work quite well with those subs, i've seen others put them in 4th orders with success

[@mistanotu8791]

@@Dakoustics thank you so much :-D what frequency would you tune ported too I was thinking 45-50 but I like low lows where should I aim for, the box I was planning is meant for a trailblazer

[@Dakoustics]

@@mistanotu8791 45 should be good, but if you've got a decent set of mids you might be able to drop the tuning to 40 and cross over at 50 or 60

[@mistanotu8791]

@@Dakoustics thank you you been a big help :-) I'm most likely going to tune at 45 and crossover bout 60, I subbed to you bro your very smart thanks for being cool and helping me out bro ✌

[@simontshukudutshukudu865]

I think the better one is the 1 on the ryt

[@brandonfiore8982]

My 4th order doesn't play below 29hz like my old simple ported box did. It plays all other stuff well.

[@dainellpauletta7514]

Bro your content is so informative that I feel very dom 😂😂

[@kristopherdonaldson9569]

I curious to know if I can change my subs up/ports back BR box into a 6th order by adding a second chamber on top. My og box is 2.1cuft @35hz. I've modeled and built the top chamber and it's ready to go on. QUESTION ⁉️ Since my current box sounds best ports back, and the 2 chambers are essentially 180* out of phase with each other (right?).. could I face the port of the upper bass forward? Firing in the opposite direction of the lower bass ports?..or should I just go with the tried and true "all ports exiting the same direction" method?

[@TOMMY-WANT-WINGY]

In series tuned 6th order, kniwing the front is tuned higher than the rear, It seems that the front port doesn't load below tuning, where the rear one does, so the lows is coming from the rear port. Correct?

[@rjaudio101]

In 4th order. Is there any difference in output on which side of the speaker is in the sealed chamber? I see some they install the speaker the magnets out.

[@mirisify]

Can i tune a 6th order below the Fs of the sub? BTW great video

[@Dakoustics]

Yeah, my 6th was originally at Fs of the sub, but it had a nasty peak, I lowered the tuning twice, and it performed fine. Just make sure you don't hit Xmax at its resonance, the driver moves a ton right in the middle of the two tunings.

[@mirisify]

@@Dakoustics Okay thanks a lot

[@MykeHawke-r9r]

Thank you for making this video

[@DCBDesigns]

So having 4 18's in a 6th, what rear sq inches per cube is recommended?