5-45RFE Rebuild

2010 Dodge Ram 1500
Clearances UD: .040-.068, OD: .030-.063, Rev: .023-.058, 2C: .039-.065, 4C: .030-.055, LR: .046-.082
End play .004-.020
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans...

[@brianbabin7020]

i cant believe you put that thing together so fast..took me about 10 hours to do it... great video and well done!!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks. Once you get the snap rings down it is one of the easier units to do, for me anyways.

[@danwarzecho6901]

10 hours? Dude. Thats bad

[@rononelson5892]

Have you tried

[@TejasToolMan]

Great video thanks for the measurements and specifics, this reassured my confidence rebuild tomorrow

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Glad it helped.

[@markrought3018]

thank you for this video.. hard to find this channel but glad I did..

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Glad you did also, thanks for watching.

[@abdulnasseral-nuaimialseed7835]

Thank you very much, you are so creative

[@whatwasthat3269]

Thank you. im rebuilding one of these for my grand cherokee. This is awesome!!!!!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thank you, thanks for watching.

[@TonyStony]

My 2003 regular cab ram tranny gave out and this video gives me more than motivation to do it myself

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Glad it helps. Thanks for watching.

[@Dozelton]

So I just finished my rebuild using this video as a reference many many times. Thank you again. There seemed to be significantly more play between the second group of 4 clutches, I think they’re the over drives if not mistaken. I pulled them apart like 3 times and measured the plates to make sure I was using the correct ones. Anyway it’s back together and I’m going to put it in my truck tomorrow with my fingers crossed. Hopefully it’s just my judge of clearance that is off. Either way thank you again what a great learning experience

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Overdrive's .040-.065, underdrive .030-.063 clearance. Overdrive clutches are the thick ones, underdrive are thinner. Make sure the plate between the two is not upside down will throw the clearance off.

[@Dozelton]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission okay I installed the step down like you said.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@Dozelton OK. Then if you got the right thickness clutches and the snap rings in the right place you should be ok.

[@wertyious]

great video very detailed.. thanks for the lesson.. i did my 03 545rfe from this video with master rebuild kit & shift improvement kit.. same process.. thanks again love it

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks for watching!

[@user-wy3fw4vh8b]

did you have to do a trans relearn? i have an 04 is the reason i ask

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

You need to clear the codes even if it says no codes. Then perform a quick learn with a scanner. This will reset the clutch values and give you better shifts. Also will keep you from burning the clutches if you don't do it before it can relearn them from driving. If you don't do it with a scanner it takes a lot longer manually.

[@danielguerra626]

Awesome video!!!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks

[@gilbertgarcia1575]

What type of lube is on the paint brush?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@gilbertgarcia1575 Transjel gold.

[@hpjunke]

Dang .. Honestly this doesn’t look that bad at all. Thank you for video , super thorough and well explained .. Makes me want to try it but i dunno

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

As long as you keep the snap rings and clutches in the righ location they are pretty easy.

[@nicolasachee9765]

Thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us! I'm elbows deep in this thing and i just spent two hours turning my old muffler into a hydrolic press extension... but looking at it, i'm wondering... if all i'm trying to do is replace the clutches... can i do this without using the press and messing with the springs at all?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

If all you want to do is change the clutches then you don't need to take the return springs off. However, you will not know what kind of shape the pistons are in if you don't.

[@nicolasachee9765]

Wow dude! Thanks for the quick reply! You're the MAN!

[@benwilson9145]

Thank you for this video, it's extremely helpful. I have a multilayer snap ring I can't seem to find the proper spot for and you never handled one in the video as far as I can tell. Where does it go?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The only one I can think of that looks like what you are describing is on the sprag assembly. I don't ever take it off if that is it. You can send me a picture of it on my Instagram if that is not where it goes.

[@benwilson9145]

@CurmudgeonTransmission yeah I did some digging and found it. Your Sprag assembly is different from mine. Mine is gray and has these rollers that only allow it to turn one way. Thank you for replying though. Excellent video

[@mobius-1503]

Thanks so much for all this. What is this difference between this and the 45RFE? is it only the programming but same internals?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Yes. Not the only transmission they can do that with. Most are capable of six speeds forward and two in reverse with programming.

[@ExplodingAppl3s]

badass

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thanks

[@Dozelton]

Your video is very helpful as I am about to do my first rebuild, thank you. I have two questions. Is it necessary to soak the clutch plates before assembly? Also is it necessary to check clearances and if they are off what would be the causes?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Thank you. I don't pre soak my clutches and I don't have problems, you have to decide what's right for you. If you use good quality clutches, Raybestos, your clearances problems should not be an issue provided you put the right clutches in the right spot. Your biggest area of concern is going to be the o/d-u/d drum, those I would check for sure. If they come out wrong you have either put the wrong clutches in, pressure plate in upside down or snap rings in the wrong spot.

[@Dozelton]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission awesome and thank you again for your invaluable knowledge!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@Dozelton Thank you for watching.

[@Pablospit]

excellent video, new subscriber, the small valve in the shape of an ice cream cone doesn't matter which way it goes?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

One in the shape of an ice cream cone doesn't ring a bell with me. Can you post a picture to my Instagram? CurmudgeonTransmission

[@ScottJ175]

Thanks for the vid. I have a 2003 Ram 1500 4x4 205k miles. It wasn't acting up. Came to a stop. Felt a clunk and it refused to move unless I revved the heck out of it and would engage with a tire barking bang. I limped it a block to a relative's house. Then later while limping to the back of their property it stopped engaging completely. I'm thinking catastrophic converter or pump failure. There's a slim but unlikely chance one of the filters might have dislodged. Anything else it might be? No codes were thrown but PRNDL was blinking. Not a truck I rely on for a daily so I'm considering tackling it myself in order to learn.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

What is the condition of the fluid? What scan tool are you using? With the PRNDL blinking there should be a code. Might not be using a high enough quality scan tool to get all the codes.

[@ScottJ175]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission fluid was full and looked good in color and smell. I changed it and the filters 5,000 miles ago and don't remember anything unusual in the change. I was using Torque Pro Android to scan but my $10 Amazon OBD II dongle might have been the limitation. I had no check engine light just the blinking shift indicator. Unfortunately it's 545 miles away from me so I can't fiddle with it right now.

[@ScottJ175]

BTW I pulled the pan and found gear teeth. I went and bought another unit from Pull-A-Part to rebuild. I tore down the old one to see what went wrong. One of the planets in the rearmost set exploded. Wild. My Mopar master rebuild kit arrived today. Question: do you soak frictions in ATF prior to assembly?

[@victortorres9792]

Hello there! So I’m tackling a drum on my 545rfe.. once upon a time rebuild it put back together and come to find there is no reverse and goes into limp mode. Long story short OD/Reverse drum has major leak! Balance piston was torn UD piston orfic was blown, input clutch hub seals was also blown through. No will a pump shutter valve delete cause that issue? Help really appreciate. Thank you!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Not sure which valve you are talking about. Who's shift kit are you putting in? If you are referencing the valve that you replace in the pump from the Transgo kit, no I have never seen it cause that. Sounds like a major pressure problem or maybe the pistons were damaged during installation.

[@decluttergoals8045]

My Jeep Liberty has the 5-45RFE. I noticed a few days ago the RPMs were getting high when trying to shift around 28-30 mph. I stopped driving it immediately and smelled burnt rubber. The next time I test drove it, it shifted fine, but I have not driven it more until I can get the transmission worked on. Once you smell it burning, is it too late? Is a complete overhaul required? Or can I try changing the fluid and solenoid pack (with electronics, temperature sensor, etc.) in case the damage has not been done yet? I was quoted $4200 for an overhaul and another $800 for something about the coolant hard lines and/or pump, taxes, environmental fees, etc.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

If you smell it burning you have serious problems. Make sure it is not something else maybe stuck to the exhaust. You need to start with scanning the system for codes. If you do have a problem changing the fluid will not help and in some cases can make the situation worse. I think you need to get a second opinion on the cost. Go here and see what they suggest. www.atra.com/ShopFinder

[@ScottJ175]

Do you have any experience with early 545rfe with the screw in cooler fittings rather than push in with a clip? My 2003 has the screw in and the fitting in the transmission has an odd rubber seal in it (not an o-ring). I can't find any replacement at Mopar. Do they work with just regular o-rings?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Only ever seen O-rings on them. Probably just a smushed O-ring.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mH7MoH-Gm56ifrc

[@ScottJ175]

I'm building an early (2004) 5-45RFE and I'm up to the input drum assembly and the Mopar master kit has two more friction discs than I need. Is there a difference in reverse friction thickness across years?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The Underdrive and Reverse are the same at .079. Double sided clutches till 2007. In 07 the Underdrive went to single sided with inside and outside teeth. The Reverse remained double sided for all years. You should have 6 total, 4 in the underdrive and 2 for Reverse. 4 for Overdrive as well but they are .089.

[@ScottJ175]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks. After much measuring and comparing colors and teeth to what came out of the two units I have apart (my fragged 2003 and the 2004 replacement I'm building) I determined I have two extra UD discs in my Mopar kit for some reason. Also, you need a one-off tip jar on your Patreon besides the monthly subscription. I've watched this video So many times as I journey through my first rebuild. Extremely helpful.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I set up the Patreon the way I did because that is basically what you can do. You can choose whatever amount you want and just don't set up recurring payments if you want to make it a one-time thing. The way I have it set up is the lowest you can go. Thanks for watching.

[@markvietti]

sorry for all the questions. I appreciate the reply's. . How important is the quick learn procedure after the rebuild?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

It can be very important at times. Found that it really depends on the damage and just what got damaged. It is always learning it is just slower at it once it has " learned". The quick learn is setting it to your clearances since you rebuilt it, will help prevent bind ups and flares. Some units I have seen it burn the clutches on the test drive if you don't do it.

[@markrought3018]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I was wondering the same thing. thx

[@markvietti]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok.. thanks again..

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@markrought3018 Any time you are able to do it always a good idea. If you don't have a scanner to do it with sometimes, especially with Ford's you can disconnect both battery cables and tape them together then go and turn the ignition switch on and turn on headlights, tap the horn several times and the brake pedal several times. Turn everything off and re connect the cables to the battery. Sometimes that will clear the memory from the computer.

[@markrought3018]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission after my rebuild I got scared and was afraid to drive it without a quicklearn . so I bought the scanner and Chrysler software. it just did not seem to make a difference after.. I did not know about this technique....wish I dd $800 ago.. thank you for it.

[@markvietti]

good to know on the bearing..did the kit come with the correct one?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I did not buy a bearing kit for this one, that was the original one.

[@markvietti]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission they bearings have little pressure on them. I have never seen one go out. on the 45-rfe 545

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@markvietti Me either.

[@boogerhead0]

At 17:48, I surely would like to know the make and model of those snap ring pliers. That is one really bad snap ring, unless one has the correct too. Thanks, Tom!

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Snap-on SAPC9000A. The predecessor worked better. This was the replacement. Tips are a bit long. They may have been replaced again since I got these. Thanks for watching!

[@matthewwalton2514]

I've got an 07 Durango 4x4.. it wines in 1st and 2nd. How much to pull, full rebuild and reinstall ?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I do not do the pricing and with the way everything has gone up exponentially right now, hard to say. Even so it would depend on the damage inside the unit and the only way to tell that would be to disassemble it.

[@matthewisakson603]

Hi thanks for the video! Very informative. I’m currently rebuilding mine and I can’t get the input drum to seat all the way. I’ve pulled everything back out 3 times and reassembled and still no luck. Any idea what I’m doing wrong?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

If you are able to get the center support snap ring in and everything turns fine in the rear then the problem is forward of the center support. The only thing you are getting to line up is the reverse clutches. Shaking and turning should seat them. When the drum is down the sensor rotor will be in the center of the speed sensor hole.

[@matthewisakson603]

Thank you I will give it another shot! Appreciate the reply!

[@matthewisakson603]

Should the rear portion of the assembly turn easily or will it be a little stiff?

[@matthewisakson603]

So I figured out that this bushing in the reaction carrier/sun bearing assembly is what was keeping the input drum shaft from sliding all the way in. I removed it and everything fit together perfectly. But now I’m worried that taking that out is going to cause a problem. Any info you can share would be most appreciated. Again thanks so much for the content.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

You need that bushing for support.

[@clarkblount7788]

Is there here a bearing between the stator and pump body? Was when you weren't recording.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Yes, black side faces you.

[@StewartHorsemanship]

I'm in Germany and having some trouble to get new bearings for my RFE transmission. Where do you buy these bearings?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Contact WIT. Link is in the description. They do international shipping.

[@StewartHorsemanship]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you!

[@ScottJ175]

One of my valve body check balls isn't round anymore so I guess I will replace all 7. Any aftermarket brand you recommend or should I just go with OEM Mopar 52118261?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Would be wise. I just use what is provided in the rebuild kit. My preferred kit is Transtec. OEM is fine also.

[@ScottJ175]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks. I didn't get any in my Mopar master kit. I'll get some from Transgo.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@ScottJ175 Those will be fine. I believe Sonnax sells them also.

[@ichkackmirindiehoish]

Was ist das bitte was du mit dem Pinsel aufträgst? Danke im Voraus

[@rononelson5892]

Hi this is good job, how can I get the spares for overhaul

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description.

[@clarkblount7788]

The bearing under the planet gear no measurement was given so is it odd man out to fit size? And looking in the well are all bearings taper up?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

The bearing that goes on the output shaft and the one that goes between the center support and hub are different and are all silver, tabs face up, towards you. All the rest have a black side and a silver side, black side faces up except in the back of the hubs in the o/d-u/d drum. That is until about 2009 or 10. Then they changed the bearing that goes between the reverse carrier and the input sun gear. If it has a .142 lip it takes .150 thick bearing, .085 lip it takes .204 thick bearing.

[@clarkblount7788]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Blount was admiral of William the Conquerer. The Earl of mount joy line, the Tenesee Blounts, My ancestor signed Bill of Rights, South Carolina. Grant was a little too burn happy, and sadly many courthouses,and the records, burned during the civil war. So may be 2 lines.

[@clarkblount7788]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ty for quick reply.

[@user-wy3fw4vh8b]

how many quarts of fluid do you add once finished?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

15-17 qts. may be more, may be less. Fill it till the dipstick says it is full.

[@v4nno]

Can you tell me where the transmission temperature sensor is on this unit is please? I have an error code on my 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8 CRD. Thanks.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Been asked by friends I have that do this also. It calculates it somehow, does not have an actual sensor. You would think it would be in the solenoid assembly, but there is no listing for it anywhere. If it is a P0218 code it is probably a bad computer. Tap on the side of the computer and watch the voltage, not the temperature. The temp will stay the same but the voltage will start going crazy.

[@v4nno]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the reply. My error code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor. From this I was assuming the box had a sensor unit.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Goes through the range sensor. So it is part of the solenoid assembly.

[@v4nno]

Thanks for the reply

[@RoadRunnerHemi]

Great video. Gave a lot of insight in to this transmission. How much would it cost to build this transmission with new parts and labor charge? I would like to commission you to execute this task if you are willing to do so. What do you say?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I have no clue any more. Been out of the pricing end of it for so long and everything has changed this last year. Prices are getting outrageous and supply is low. Don't own the shop so I can not control how you will be treated. Don't do side work either, don't have the time. You can go here and they will have recommendations for you. www.atra.com/ShopFinder

[@RoadRunnerHemi]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for your reply

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

You bet, thanks for watching.

[@seanpresto5111]

Do you have a seperator plate feed hole diagram for the 545rfe? My book has nothing on the seperator plate.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Not that shows what every hole does. What do you need to know? Check ball locations? In 2010 #6 and #7 check balls where eliminated and only have 1 hole over the bathtub they were located in. 2019 it toyally changed.

[@seanpresto5111]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission yeah Ive got all that, looking for clutch feed holes.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@seanpresto5111 Pretty sure I don't have anything on it. Will look Tuesday when I get back to work.

[@seanpresto5111]

@CurmudgeonTransmission ok thanks, I can try to lay it out myself, but its always easier to know whats what b4. Working on very slightly modifying clutch feed orifice for increases apply speed.

[@seanpresto5111]

I got the information I need. Has every hole labeled. My question is it has holes labeled LP, NR, PCS, CC mod , CC reg.

[@codeyalan]

What are you using in the bucket with the brush?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Assembly lube. The gold is no longer available. Blue, red and green. Red thinnest, green thickest.

[@codeyalan]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks

[@Meche697]

Wouldn't mind a mentor to help me with this. Never taught transmissions. Dreaded p0733 and the standard easy parts did nothing 😭. 2 new speed sensors, governor sensor, new solenoid pack, new filters and fresh fluid.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Has this unit been built? Give me all the particulars. Year, make, model and engine size.

[@Meche697]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission 2008 Dakota Sport Crew 4wd 193K miles

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Ok I am going to take that as has not been rebuilt. Does it work good for a while then set the code? Set it instantly? Do you have a scanner to watch the data? Have you watched the speed sensors?

[@Meche697]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission not rebuilt. Code is immediate when driving. Sometimes doesn't shift into 2nd unless some manually. Sensor's appear to be functioning. Would throttle position impact the trans?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

I believe you have an internal problem. Pay particular attention to the pump and if the overdrive clutches are burnt, which most are, the solenoid switch valve will be worn out in the valve body.

[@mattsmith6582]

humm my kit had a gasket that when along with the metal gasket on the valve body..

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

There is a metal gasket they started putting in the kit that goes between the stator and the pump body. There are 2 paper gaskets they started putting in the kit for the valve body.

[@mattsmith6582]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes It came with that gasket as well.. the one i'm talking about goes between the big metal gasket on the valve body.on the other side of the 7 balls . I was surprised to see it in the kit, it must be something new.. says it stops leakage... I have not finished the transmission yet so I dont know how much it helps. or even what it helps

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

@@mattsmith6582 Hmm, have not seen a metal one only paper ones on each side for each side of the separator plate. Might be something new. The 68RFE especially has cross leaks in the valve body from warpage and this was their solution for it.

[@trittontv661]

If you want to do another video of a 545RFE I can send you mine lol

[@clarkblount7788]

When you check clearance and say it's about what we are looking for....not informative.

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Added clearances to the description. I have been told that all that have the name spelt Blount are related to each other, I know a few Blount's. At least that is what he told me.

[@clarkblount7788]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Probably, 8k Blounts in US.

[@alexpro1479]

Hi, is there a troubleshooting video?

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

No, sorry. Is there a particular problem you have?

[@alexpro1479]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission проблем несколько 1- странное жужжание 2- удары при переключении со 2 на 3 3-ошибка низкое давление до этого предыдущий хозяин залил герметик в радиатор. и тот попал в акпп

[@alexpro1479]

@@CurmudgeonTransmission several problems 1- strange buzzing 2-shock when shifting from 2 to 3 3-low pressure error Prior to this, the previous owner poured sealant into the radiator. and he got into the automatic transmission

[@CurmudgeonTransmission]

Is the pressure error for the line pressure solenoid? If it is look at the wiring above the connector up to 6 or 7 inches. See if the wiring is messed up. Hard to say about the buzzing, probably the solenoid assembly. If it has had water in the unit the damage has been done. Even if it has been flushed. Will need to be rebuilt. If it is a later unit with molded pistons those will need to be replaced also.