5 Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Metal Roofing

Go to www.RoofingInte... to watch the complete 14 video series on installing metal roofing.

[@zacharywatson6296]

Love that its 5 mistakes in under 5 minutes as opposed to other channels that would run this 20 minutes or more

[@TheGalacticWest]

That's called bringing your footage into an NLE and editing it.

[@biffjohnson7107]

Au Crunk he’s obviously a non-union roofer. No red-tape, coffee breaks, or drinking at lunch. Just a quick, helpful video that didn’t go 500% over budget. 🤣

[@forrestb1165]

Please remove the music from the video. It's distracting.

[@tanewaka1]

damn that's a lot of screws

[@twostrokebluesmoke]

Agreed I use half as many, that's a hurricane zone screw pattern lol

[@Mike-pj1kv]

If you install some skylights you may need a pallet of screws.

[@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885]

He could have at least doubled the amount of screws he put in. Plenty of space left.

[@atrapasuenosdream3017]

Lmao

[@hom2fu]

might be a requirement for hospital in hurricane area.

[@codythetiger]

Spot on directions. Nice job. I have and do install tons of metal roofs. The biggest things I do along with these is to lath the roof, not only to level but to make sure I know what i am screwing into. If you screw into a place where two pieces of plywood are connecting, you create a whole in your panel that you have to caulk. Lots of shortcuts can and are taken with roofs. Knowing what you are doing and why you are doing it is the biggest thing in my opinion.

[@garrettriley3654]

I caught one mistake in the video, make sure to pre drill your screw holes reason for that is when you run your screw through with out it being pre drilled it makes the metal around it sharp and will tear your washer on the screw and makes it look neater because all the screws are perfectly even

[@bry2k]

That's how a homeowner would do it. Contractors...not so much...

[@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594]

Why did one source recommend nail punch holes over drill bit? (i forgot)

[@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594]

Notes for me 1. Lapping panel. Fat lip diwn first, cover with short lio showing when done 2 do not over tighten screw... Place in flat place Ensure nut driver works well Caulk is secondary waterproofing Place caulk underneath shielded from sun Over hang only up to 2" Pvc pipe flashing Many screws Sealant under base of boot

[@Farmboy2917]

I just finished my first metal roof , using 36" standing seam panes of 28 gauge metal , with ribs 9 " apart . The manufacturers recommendation was to put screws in the top of the ridge . They supplied 2" screws with the same color as the roofing. I used 1100 screws to do one side of a 48' by 16' roof. Each panel required 64 screws at 15" spacing. My BIG MISTAKE was in not pre-drilling the holes while the panels were neatly stacked on the ground. This meant I had to mark , hammer punch , and drive in screws while kneeling on the roof with multiple tools in my hand , while trying not to slide. It took almost 1 minute per screw to do this and I had to build a jiffy wooden roof ladder to work on. The final six panels were pre-drilled , and vive la difference. I just walked along the holes and drove in the screws , taking only a few seconds per screw , and the panels were perfectly line up. Pre-drilling several panels at a time while stacked on the ground was easy and very time saving. ALWAYS PRE-DRILL .

[@laserfalcon]

Where you from?

[@tinamcwilliams7029]

@@laserfalcon st. Albans vt.

[@tinamcwilliams7029]

@@laserfalcon st albans vt

[@laserfalcon]

@@tinamcwilliams7029 I am looking at doing my large shop with standing seam metal roofing,. Anything you suggest to avoid?

[@tinamcwilliams7029]

Standing seam good system .I always ad more clips at bottom and top .you should be ok with that .to figure you're pans to see were you and up width of pan with eighth of inch grow rate

[@CIorox_BIeach]

Mom said to put the screws on the ridges. All her other building advice is solid, so I'm gonna go with that.

[@bonzaburger5531]

Yep

[@farnorth1587]

I argued for that til I was blue in the face. That was the way it was done. You will not find a contracter or supplier that recomends screws in the ridges today.

[@deltadog3812]

A total idiot put my metal roof on and he paid to have it redone,not voluntarily though and the second installer put the screws in the raised ribs, never put the screws in the ribs.In the end I had the metal striped off and put asphalt shingles on.Metal is good if installed the right way.

[@cpenn9304]

I have roofs on 20 years screws in the flats and no leaks.It seems obvious to me that expansion and contraction are absorbed by the ribs. A screw in the rib interferes.This is not 5 v tin.

[@ttiwkram]

Upper left of the image at 2:29 shows material badly distorted by what looks like overtightening.

[@rwatson2609]

Agreed, I also question his "Mistake # 1" based on common sense and how water ingress works..

[@nunyabiznis817]

This is the perfect way to install metal roofing if you want to keep going back to your customers' houses to fix your mistakes and get sued for damages caused by leaks you created.

[@baconneggs2406]

putting your screws in the ribbs isent very smart as the washers will fail faster and a hole in the rib is still a hole and the water will still find it.screws need to be sucked down solid and putting them in the rib dosent allow for that.

[@michaelbeerbados3291]

FINALLY a reasonable answer !!! weeeeee

[@chrislutz9342]

A common question about this type of panel. If you refer to the manufacturer's instructions on installation, you will see that they specifically indicate fastening in the flat of the pan. The ribs on this type of panel are curved on top and do not allow for a good seal of the washer. Screwing through the rib often causes the panel to buckle slightly, creating an unsightly 'fishmouth' effect along the bottom edge.

[@califdad4]

I have a aluminum flat shingle roof, been on the house since 1985

[@shawdfairfield2719]

Y do you think the screws are better in the flat and not on the rib I've put probably 100 roofs on and never have a problem ever not even in 5 years water is going to be heavier on the flat and it's a given the rubber will give away

[@BenjaminSr]

Losing an inch of screw when its not on the flat. Basically you're making garbage that won't last.

[@SkilletsDomes]

I have repaired so many metal roofs because the screws were put in the channel, where the water flows. The screws should be placed in the "hat" not in the channel. Yes it is more difficult, over torquing will cause the sheets to creep. The washers will last much longer because expansion/contraction is taken up in the hat. IMHO

[@mare027]

screws are not in the right place. It should be in the tooth of the sheet metal. In that case when seals will gone (in some years) you will have holes where the most of water is flowing. sry for my englesh;)

[@chrislutz9342]

Great points. Reducing the number of penetrations in your roof is always a good idea. One of the points I was trying to make in this video was that spending a bit more time on the details will save you big trouble in the long run.

[@philipmanter3216]

in the flats ,that is what the WASHERS are for,they plug the hole.you remove the screw and the washer stays there,proof

[@michaelbeerbados3291]

@Chas Jostin yeah about 25 years !! buy some new screws every 25 years ya cheap prick !!

[@hankclingingsmith8707]

#6 dont buy the sealant at home cheap. Buy the best polyuarathane and seal the screw heads also. The rubber fails after 5 to 10 years, caulk will last 25 to 50 yrs.

[@harryeichelberger4799]

Screw gaskets are slated to last 20 years fyi

[@21313cord21]

Predrill panels to keep lines straight

[@21313cord21]

@The Sentry just pre measure for pulling, line up your sheets you can drill 10 sheets fairly easy. And all will be the same. You must adjust for overhang but it is fast and your people won't miss a screw.

[@WhatIsKenDoing]

You forgot another common mistake. Imperial rib is barn roofing, not house roofing. It looks terrible on a house. Use standing seam and you’ll never have a leak because there are no exposed fasteners.

[@truthurts1692]

KZbin- where EVERYONE is an expert, and knows more than everyone else. This video was posted almost 5 years ago and the experts are still crawling all over it.

[@da324]

BornToRunBarefoot, Look who's talking!

[@YOGGHIbear]

How you can put screw on the flat area, what actually represents water channel?! That's easier way to work for installers, and the way to "screw" the client. SCREWS MUST GO ON THE highest point of the slab, that means on the lips

[@tylermckenna4446]

Wronggg

[@michaelbeerbados3291]

SO SO fucking wrong..you will never get a good rubber seal on TOP of a rib...so many idiots here

[@brianbrown7238]

My friend next video back off them screws a tad the dents are a dead give away that ...ya might have squashed the rubber seal ...just saying

[@jstein1997]

me too in my country we used corrugated galvanized iron roofing and the fastener has to be in the ribs or top of the curve portion not on the flat to prevent from leaking so easy. When install the Galvanized roofing correctly your roof stay longer even your grand children can benefit it

[@KSA-ll9kt]

I believe with a little bit of pre-planning and thoughtful installation you could have installed at least three more fasteners in the flashing boot. (sarcasm)

[@terryberkland6019]

I dont think I like that many screws in a brand new roof

[@jojomama4787]

Thanks for this video,I've actually learned a lot!

[@troykress5583]

Do you ever recommend placing the screws in the rib? Or should I place them in the flat part?

[@bradsanders7558]

OK, I see there is a lot of controversy regarding putting the screws on the rib or on the flat. Chris, the narrator, lives in Georgia, USA, and manufacturers in this part of the world recommend placing the screws in the flat next to the rib. So, there you have it!

[@kokopelli314]

Do Not put screws on the flat of the panel! It will hold ice and leaves then leak.

[@kokopelli314]

Also, regarding boots, rather than gooping it up then adding dozens of screws, it's always best to lap flashings under upper sheets with a cut channel and over lower sheets, sometimes also with a cut channel. Frame the strapping around the vent, stack or chimney to take a few screws, preferably along the established line and add a bead of clear urethane on the undersides of the cut seams and avoid putting screws in the boot.

[@kokopelli314]

Best to read the installation guide from the manufacturer.

[@roberttaylor5677]

www.fabral.com/featured-installation-videos/

[@roberttaylor5677]

2+2=5 That's wrong! 7+2=9, 8+1=9, 6+3=9, 10-1=9,4+5=9, Respect everybody's way of thinking!

[@malbers35]

Ken Bell Stop dumping leaves on your roof.

[@johnboykin3128]

I just installed 11, 12' x 3' panels of galvalum on a "lean to" style patio cover. We have since had 2 significant rain storms with NO leaks at all. I installed my screws 100% ONLY on the FLAT portion of the steel. I used Teks #9 1" screws with the rubber washers and they grabbed good and firm into the wood frame with my driver torque set at its lowest torque. The panels I used overlay pretty good and are made of a pretty strong and rigid material "galvalum" I made sure to screw in the flat close to the overlay section, and it is buttoned up pretty snug. I think screwing through the high points through the contours of the ridge seems would be a bad approach. The screws really lock down tight against the smooth metal and pinches the flat steel tight against the wood frame without flexing and distorting the roofing or upsetting the alignment of the panels. No leaks.

[@mrpartyshoes]

John Boykin galvalum is a sheet coating nothing to do with strength moron. Stronger sheets equal heavier gauge metal

[@Hebtone]

It depends on the manufacture on where the screws go. I have seen both ways.

[@clarencefeddes4234]

Hey dude the screws go in the high ribs. (Screws 2-2.5 “ long with neoprene washers) .This also allows for slight movement from expansion and contraction on cloudy days. You will hear pinging on cloudy days. I have laid hundreds or tons of steel over 40 years(leadhead nails long ago).they are all still ok.

[@johnnussberger8505]

So I just looked at my roof and the screws are on the flats . Then I looked it up and most sites say put the screws on the flats . But a whole lot of sights say as the washers age and the roof moves having the washers on the high ribs will prevent leaks and that's kind of what a roof is for !

[@BillSmith-nc5fd]

​@@johnnussberger8505😢h

[@dand7052]

When I installed steel roofing a few yrs ago, we were always told to install the screws through the high rib and never on the lower flat surface. Why are your screws installed in the lower flat surface?

[@SnackAttack77]

Never seen them installed on the high point

[@spencerhansen8374]

Different areas of the country have different recommendations. For your area, follow the manufacturers instructions.

[@JonWaite]

In this video, you have a really nice B-vent that I'd like to get for a smoke pipe on a standing seam roof. I've been looking all-over the internet for it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who makes it please and where I might buy one? Thanks in advance.

[@dope7kids]

I disagree with the overlap, i put my roof on and layed the edge opposite and it seated better and looks nicer i also put the screws on the ridge instead of the valleys, the valleys are were 99 percent of the water and snow are, you dont want any holes drilled in that area.

[@da324]

Then you disagree with the manufacturer. As far as screw locations go, put a screw in a piece of wood and leave 3/4" up, now put a screw next to it flush. Grab the head of each screw and move it side to side, up and down, and tell me which one moves. Metal moves over time and the screw that's on the ridge has more chance of working it's way loose than the one that's flush. The neoprene washers are there for a reason and don't leak in the valley if put on properly and they secure the panel better.

[@dope7kids]

@@da324 it was the manufacturer who told me to put it on the ridge, its been 10 years and hurricane dorian with 80 mph winds and not a problem. The ridge is thicker and more robust than the thin valley.

[@da324]

@@dope7kids I guess there's difference specs for manufacturers. Mine told me to go in the flats. Glad yours is fairing well.

[@dope7kids]

@@da324 hope your roof works good for you as well, no leaks, stays on for 50 years.

[@wethenorth3695]

Not the way it's done Donald lol

[@jasendaszkiewicz9665]

Different panels require different methods to screw off American standard requires you to screw in the flat . I have screwed on the rib before on a pole barn in on the inside when you look through if you screw it on the high rib you can see daylight to me that is a leak you do what the manufacturer says to do which is screw on the flat I know it doesn't seem like the right thing to do but it is in in the north country I live in Maine if you install a metal roof you must take the gutters off because when the snow slides off it will tear the gutters write off every time

[@greghill118]

jasen daszkiewicz that's what they make ice breaks for is to keep the snow from sliding off and ripping the gutters off of your house

[@doubleagent6951]

jasen daszkiewicz hang gutters up to a small torpedo level that's sits on roof. They should be about 1 inch down from roof line

[@sgf13]

I realize there is disagreement, even among manufacturers, over where to put the screws. I can't understand why it would be better to place them in the flat section. That area is a lower so it is where the majority of water flows. In a heavy rain the high points have water droplets whereas the valley has a constant flow of water. I wish someone could explain why the flat surface is the better choice for screws.

[@jimmybaldwin878]

Roofing intelligent. Com

[@certaindeed]

***** Are you putting on a metal roof or a rubber washer roof?, because you have to make up our mind. If you put them in the low spots, that's what you're doing: relying on washers to be your roof and throwing away 30-40% advantage of the metal roof. The washers should be able to fail and the roof should still go 40 years with touching it at all. Back before screws were around, you put nails in the top ribs. You don't even really need washers for a long time if you out them on top of the ribs and have a felt backing on top of quality lumber. Don't believe me? Try putting them in the low spots without washers and see how long your roof lasts.

[@francisdoudney7000]

rubber washers on the flats (valleys) is highly not recomended due the seal not always seatted correctly or age has caused it to rot or crack and have seen a time or two the seal just not there. common sence would tell you that you have less water in the peek than a flood in the valley.

[@Cotronixco]

It seems that way, Gene, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.

[@robertbutler8004]

Garbage screws through the top rib is the only way to guarantee a leak proof roof.

[@slappyjoe2216]

Short and sweet, thorough and informative- Great upload Thank you

[@showersw]

I can see how putting the screw on the flat would hold the gasket more flat and tight. But I would see it leaking easier eventually. Atleast putting on the ridge water would stand better chance of rolling down the ridge and onto the flat!!!! I was always taught on high rib!!!!

[@perilsperils]

I live in Monroe County in Florida we have hurricane standards we screw four inches up from the bottom drip edge and then every 8 inch accordingly on the female and the male ribs. As well as in the middle of the panel this guarantees secure system, that has been proven on many occasions to withstand category 4 hurricanes. These standards across Monroe County are the strongest and most coherent in the country being that we do have hurricanes these systems wouldn't work unless there's at least a slope of 3 degrees pitch as so water won't pool from standing water. The Fasteners were not designed to be submerged under water. Anything with less than a 3 degree pitch involves a totally different other system and Hardware.

[@ralphvalkenhoff2887]

Best practice is to install millions of screws and then mop a thick layer of tar over the whole roof. Guaranteed never to leak.

[@Jstro14]

Do they make gray tar? Lol

[@JmurfFTW]

You didnt even put the screws in the ribs. They will rust out way faster and cause more leakage once the washer is done.

[@radarlove007]

Don't screw in the flats! With heat and cold you'll have expand and contract expand and contract. Everyone of those neoprene or rubber washers will leak sooner or later.

[@michaelbeerbados3291]

never had it happen...manufacturers recommend the flats...stop LYING

[@toddmiller7876]

I myself, had a standing seam roof put on, mainly too avoid the screw penetration issue.

[@LeroyBraun]

Excellent choice.

[@RooferNews]

Thanks for clarifying the lip covers.

[@donaldgreen7471]

Used a fiberglass ridge cap on a galvanized metal roof. Water coming off the fiberglass onto the metal caused it over time to rust at that point.This started after about 5 years.Now after 24 yrs no rust anywhere except at the peak where the water run/drips onto the galv/metal. My theory is the fiberglass starts to break down over time and etches the metal at that point. Sort of a slow glass beading effect. I don't think a galv/tin ridge cap would have done this. Correct me if I'm wrong. Don in Florida 🍺

[@sidyken]

It’s awesome that you get strait to the point and help folks such as myself who’s about to install and 26 gauge delta rib metal roof on a 6/12 roof because I would have shit the bed…. Thanks again

[@G_RAThbun]

You can settle an argument for me between my friend and myself, He is building a porch added on to his shop I told him he does not need to put OSB under the tin roof just strapping he said he needs to put the boys be so it will have more places to screw. Should he waste the money to put the OSB under the metal siding or just use strapping across the rafters one by fours

[@RoofingIntelligence]

I would definitely NOT use OSB. With no decking, I like to use 2x4's placed 2 feet on center for the added strength, though 1x4s might work on 16" centers. OSB is a bad choice because the screws will not hold over time and will back out badly and leak after just a few years. If you want to use solid decking, ½" CDX plywood is a good choice.

[@1newman2]

why put screws in the field/flat of roofing? IT ALWAYS shows a dent, every screw in your video on the flat kinks the roofing ....if you put screws in the ridges its much stronger as long as you dont over tighten...ESPECIALLY at the lap/seams . in 30 years of doing r panels , i've yet to have a single leak or screw back out....

[@deezynar]

Many houses have far more roof penetrations than are needed. Connect plumbing vents together in the attic to reduce the number of VTRs to the minimum. Size them according to code & install wall clean-outs if required. The penetrations that remain should be moved so they come thru the panels in the best places. Wide penetrations should come thru the middle of a panel ridge so water can flow by in a valley on either side. Narrow penetrations should be centered in a valley.

[@kennethrobinson11231]

tell me what you do about the screws backing out because of heat in the tin roof. Expansion and contraction. Day in and day out of the roof doing this will back the screws out. I have to be on my roof twice a year tighten screws or replacing screws with bigger one. I want a roof that use a clip in a channel so your roof can move without loosen the screws.

[@OldManLuffy]

2:26 you were talking about using the screws the correct way if you look behind the man towards the upper left you can see the metal has a few dents in it that's what happens when youve tightened the screws down too much

[@jezjukes]

"Boots" or decktites as we call them here are no longer used like this. Flat plate is first installed over the penetration extending sideways to cover the nearest corrugations and extending up underneath the ridge. The " boot" is only then installed to a flat surface. Fitting like this ,especially over corrugations , and sometimes causing a dam will eventually cause a leak.

[@Harmon1ca]

Jez Jukes came to the comments to find this. Good Commercial standing seam roof installation instructions expressly prohibit boots over a seam like that.

[@jezjukes]

@@Harmon1ca yep WITHOUT the flat plate, just came across this , if you use anything other than a boot/decktite do it. Boot to roof straight is a massive no no.

[@fastrivers812]

Why not install the screws on the ridges? It seems to me that having them rest on the flat part means that water runoff will cause more hydrostatic pressure there than on the ridge because water will runoff easier from the ridge.

[@billwilson5341]

Had a metal roof professionally installed this year. They put the screws on the ridges. I share your question/concern.

[@MitchHowes]

Will be installing my own metal roof in the near future. Is it just me? I thought all new residential roofing uses the (best practice) Screw less method. In that screws are installed on outer ridge edge then the next panel snaps over and locks onto this ridge. Then repeat? Any of you guys have any experience with this?

[@billwilson5341]

All I can tell you is that MY metal roof required screws. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your roofing panels and ask their advice. Good luck with your project!

[@rocknral]

Proceeds to over screw the screws (in the pan mind you). 3:10 In cyclonic areas in Australia it's not to code to screw in the pan. Put in decent 2-1/2 screws on each rib with a cyclone washer. Also, biggest mistake I see is not kicking the sheet along to make sure that over sheet rib edge is snug and touching the under rib. Don't want it gapping. If done properly, you will hardly see where the sheets lap.

[@vanillaicecream9126]

Best for metal roof is Galvanized Iron ...or if u have enouff money cooper is even better but is very expensive...We mostly use Galvanized iron plates or strips buy from metal shop and then bend them on bender in the shop..Falce the join....Best is .0,56mm galvanized iron for roof if u can find in your local shop..Its not too much people know who can build roof like this cose u need to bend iron buy your self and Make Falce joinery what makes several years too learn it...But this roof gonna stay u so many years..

[@KenColby87]

I see every one bitching about where to screw and where not do. Keep in mind the climate... The product we sell specifically says to screw into the ridge while I've seen others claim to install on the flat part Every manufacture is going to be different.

[@bluenami7520]

Don't know why anyone would screw into the flat part for a guaranteed leak point. That's the dumbest thing ever. All screws should go into the ribs.

[@gary24752]

I have a question. I recently saw an issue where pressure treated timbers were used on a carport and one of them had warped badly. It had a plywood deck and this type of metal roofing. The roofing edge had lifted badly at the one rafter timber warping the plywood deck and metal deck. I this case what problems can arise with the metal roofing fasteners? Being that screwed fasteners were used would the heat and cold cycles cause expansion and contraction enough to elongate the fastener holes in the metal roofing panels eventually allowing water to penetrate the metal panels?

[@phillipkrywosa9554]

Screw in the flats. In the north country , when you have to shovel the roof, the snowshovel will rip the screws out.

[@mr.wizeguy8995]

So your roof isn't engineered strong enough if it can't bare snow load and needs shoveling.

[@timschutte8310]

phillip krywosa use a push broom upside down without too much down ward pressure. or just use it brissol side down. works good. or a gas blower.

[@voidremoved]

u 2 r funny

[@stoneyswolf]

If your dumb enough to go on a slippery metal roof covered in snow and ice then your dumb enough to dent and scratch the shit out of it with a shovel. Get a snow rake slippery when wet boy.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

I agree, in theory. But if there's three to four feet of snow on the roof and it starts to rain, that snow soaks up the water like a sponge. I had a beam sag 7/16 inch under such conditions, so I reluctantly removed some of the snow. Yes, the building WAS perhaps under-engineered, but sometimes we have extreme weather events that challenge a home built to code. Shoveling off a roof is no fun.

[@randyjacks4170]

Lots of arguments about putting screws in flats or ribs. I've installed a lot of metal roofs. NEVER had a leak! If you put a hole in a piece of metal you create a place for it to leak.... I always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart. On perimeter we do put screws in the flats on 8" spacing to hold edges down which keeps wind from getting under the metal. Never had a leaker and never had a roof blow off. Two points I absolutely agree with in this video... pipe flashing technique and lapping edges... long edge on bottom.

[@certaindeed]

Randy Jacks In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and still going strong after paint jobs and inspection ( these were done before us in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the height of the corrugated for free. If you put them in the low spots you do not have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in low spots get in the way of ***serviceability**** and leak when you have to go on the roof years later when you have to go up and do repairs. Keep in mind that you may have to paint it in 40 or so years depending on conditions. ***You will have to reset screws with washers in a **-much much-** shorter period of time before that if you are in the low spots, but it is of little concern if on the high spots.**** I've seen roofs from 1955 that have bare nails on the high spots that are backing out and weep a bit and I had to go up and replace them with screws but the southern pine wood is still good underneath. Some even had a layer of felt. This would never have survived with fasteners in the low spots. You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low spots without causing the screws to leak and damage, I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. ****Always strip the asphalt roof!**** before putting on a metal roof. Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or bending the roof. ***The entire idea of a metal roof is to get 3x or 4X times the age of an asphalt roof. Yes, that's right, no reason you cannot get 60+ years out of a steel roof with little or no maintenance.****Screws in the low spots assure this will not happen.

[@randyjacks4170]

Absolutely agree with you. If you don't give a roof a place to leak it can't leak.

[@certaindeed]

Randy Jacks Simply and well said.

[@Keeneyfox]

+eddie telleed Gentlemen, you may have saved me a world of heartache down the road, thank you. After watching this video I was going to screw in the low place vs. the seams. Randy I'm confused about what you said about when you always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart, if the panels are 3' wide wouldn't the screws be 3' apart across the row of the roof? I think I misunderstood what you meant. Anyway point is I'm going to fasten on the ribs and at the seems per the reasons you guys gave, thanks again for the helpful advice.

[@Cotronixco]

+eddie telleed Many times the screws should go in the low flats so the roof can be shoveled or if you need triangular strength.

[@mcauleyman]

Your first mistake was putting the screws on the flat part. The screws should be on the rib for a roof and on the flat part for a wall

[@photofinish8607]

In correct, each screw should be beside a rib, you may choose to add a stitch screw, however that screw should be small and not fasten into the strapping.

[@robertstultz2260]

Lay your long pieces on your saw horses pre-drill the holes in the ridges and hand it up and York your drill know problem at all!!!! Not in flat!!!! Leaks common sense!!!!!

[@solstice2318]

I prefer screwing on the ridges. Less risk of infiltration that way.

[@michaelbeerbados3291]

so wrong...you need a different length screw that way, you usually have to DRILL that and it will NOT seal as tight as you have dented the rib....bad idea !!

[@solstice2318]

@@michaelbeerbados3291 well.. That's the way we do it here. Never had any problems, never heard of anyone who had either.

[@demetriusjohan5899]

Romans chapter 10 verse nine if you declare with your mouth Jesus is Lord and believe in your heart that God raised him from the dead the Bible says you will be saved Jesus loves u Any prayer request put in comments

[@brandonroot7848]

Common Mistake number 6It would probably look better if you made a cone and a wrap for the pipe so you cant see the boot, you also need to add sealant to the top of the boot around the pipe

[@SuperCyril2]

Metal roofs are a pain in the ass. People told me there was no maintenance. Thats a pile of horse crap. Loose screws. Leaking holes where the metal was cut for a chimney or a pipe. Snow sliding off the roof an destroying my deck to the point where the deck ripped clean off the house and did a bunch of damage. Also dont park your car to close or it will destroy it too. I wish I had stuck with shingles.

[@robboat6269]

Screws on top of the ridges. Not in the channel only screws id put in the channel would be the eaves.at the bottom of the sheet above the soffit. If a screw leaks on top of the ridges not much will come in. But if a screw leaks in the channel. It will leak more. I only put the bottom screws in the channel to keep the wind from lifting the bottom edge.

[@owenanderson6126]

Why pan fix when you can rib fix Your screws are right in path of flowing water you’ve created a potential leak point

[@tomastobler6161]

Here is a link from the manufacturer for how to install steel properly every manufacturer has a warrantied installation guide best bet is to use that. www.idealroofing.ca/english_us/pdf/products/americana/Installation.pdf

[@wonderbucket1242]

Why isn't it better to screw into the ridges instead of the flat part of the panel? And is that really the best way to seal a pipe? It looks like garbage. And there is a good chance you end up splitting the wood underneath.

[@irafair3015]

I would not use any type of metal roof system where I must put screws through the metal. It is bound to leak as washers dry out and from the normal expansion and contraction of the metal.

[@mr.wizeguy8995]

Every sheet metal roof should always have waterproof underlayment for 2 reasons. 1st doesn't matter if screws are on ridge or valley some of them WILL leak 2nd sheetmetal roof always condesate water underneath it from temperature changes and they will drop to insulations if there isn't any underlayment.

[@photofinish8607]

Every agricultural building has absolutely no underlay. Don’t spread lies

[@lindanwfirefighter4973]

I have never seen a metal roof with what you describe

[@justinstevenson2061]

Photo Finish oh my god. You and the others shock me. Underlay is important in a shingle roof, let alone a metal roof which; 1- has more temperature change at a faster rate, so more condensation to be had 2)lasts 3x the length of a shingle roof, costs a bunch more as well. But hey why make it watertight??? What?? When water gets under shingles or metal roofs etc, if it then drains off the underlay your ok. When there’s not underlay your wood will be affected. Especially cause everywhere uses plywood not hardwood, which is fine, but for longer lasting roofs hardwood is more recommended for longevity. Plywood, even true ply let alone OSB is still glue based. Moisture releases the glue slowly. Your fasteners then don’t have the hold they did upon install. The longer your roof covering will last, the longer in theory you want the sheathing to last. If you have a metal roof with condensation forming on the backside with no underlay, that’s a recipe for rotten (or minimally expanded boards) which will need to be replaced eventually. Also not gaming proper ventilation throws a big loop in metal roofs. Not tearing the old shingles off and laying metal, eventually the shingle nails can back out from the wood over freeze/that cycles and actually dent the metal outward coming up from the bottom.

[@justinstevenson2061]

Mr wize guy. You make good cookies.

[@rkoglin9842]

@@justinstevenson2061 that's why you use wood slats

[@JasonStewartsStreak]

Do you have to use firing strips on a new truss roof with 5/8" OSB?

[@bluefinexteriorsllc2361]

checkout some of our blog: www.bluefinroof.com/blog/ they will really help you when you are searching for roofing material or roofing contractor

[@BobsTwoCarGarage]

How do you make up for widths of roofs that don't fall evenly on the panels. e.g. A 12'-3" wide roof and the panels come out to 12'? got a video on that?

[@RoofingIntelligence]

If the last panel is going to be awkwardly skinny, you should adjust the first panel over some so that the last panel will be larger. You'll need to trim some off the first panel to make it more narrow and won't be able to start with the clean factory edge if you're using a drip edge trim.

[@BobsTwoCarGarage]

@@RoofingIntelligence thanks

[@deezynar]

I put a steel roof on my house 13 years ago & followed the advice I listed previously. You are right, it's important to take the time to make sure the penetrations are sealed well.

[@edwardpadilla7543]

So much discussion on where to put the screws. You have two types of screw, you have roof to roof deck screws (these are fairly long), and you have stitching screws (short and thicker). Both have a rubber gasket or seal. The long screws go on the flat part of the roof. This makes for a solid connection. If the long screws are used on the top of the rib, over time they work thier way loose. The short screws are used to hold the panels together and do not go through the roof deck. Hope this helps.

[@edwardpadilla7543]

Oops. The stitch screws go on top of the rib, where both panels come together.

[@timschutte8310]

Edward Padilla correct, they go into the battons

[@mr.eastcoastgrow6132]

Here's a tip I do. Predrill all your screw holes and put a dab of Henry's on them for some added protection

[@andreaaliyajahoor3430]

standing seam roofing panel best there is only at the underneath screws is to be use with clamps at the end off d day no screws will be visserbel

[@casparjohn4642]

That flexible boot around the PVC pipe at 2:40 is a monstrosity.

[@mr.g937]

These screws are a nightmare waiting to happen. Skip the exposed fastener roof and go straight for a standing seam install.

[@tankmeister8131]

Should never put them in the pan, they go through the rib, just asking for trouble

[@hoots02]

I'm pretty sure the route for that did my house and every one of those mistakes, Now I gotta pay again to have it fixed what a mess

[@michaelkhung2529]

Is not a good idea to screw the fastener on the flat area, the rubber washer soon will be hardened and bristled, rain water will run down directly into the house.

[@buratching]

hello can you tell me where could get an information how to install metal roof for a gazebo?? thank you

[@danielszemborski]

This guy looks like Red Foreman in his Robocop years.

[@mattheweburns]

We were told to never put screws anywhere in the flat valleys only to use screws at the tips of the ridges where water will not be

[@berniebuckley1720]

Thank you. The videos explained metal roofing in an easy to understand format.

[@Farmboy1544]

Wow thats new putting the screw in the bottom of the pan. Never seen it done that way before.

[@JustinCrediblename]

mistake #1: using roofing that has exposed fasteners. Biggest mistake ever, guys. (no, I didn't make that one). Curious: on my garden sheds, I put Klip-Rib 24 gauge. I let the fronts hang off by over a foot, and doubled the clips on the edge of the roof. I can easily stand and bounce on that section of unsupported roof. Why is that bad? Are you concerned about wind uplift? Get into some details, my man :)

[@JustinCrediblename]

lowest slope is 2:12. it's a rare year when there's snow here. 85 MPH gust building code...and because I put overhangs, I beef up the clips at the edges.

[@mrbasser71]

When an exposed fastener system costs a fraction of other systems and minor leaks/upkeep aren't a huge problem. It is certainly not a mistake. So you replace a few screws 10 years down the road. Big deal. These are shed applications not houses.

[@ssao0000]

mrbasser71 yeah, but here in aus they call them houses. I must admit that hitting a nail through 2 joining ribs is a hasle. thats why i skrew.

[@brucea550]

Hidden fastener done correctly is WAY better than exposed.

[@photofinish8607]

Wrong, 3’ wide tough rib is structural and has a return value. Nothing else does. Don’t spread lies

[@bentot45]

Focus camera to work done to make it more interesting, less camera time on you please .

[@michaelledford4751]

Out of all the roofers here who are claiming the panel should be attached thru the rib vs thru the panel has any 1 of you attended 4 yrs trade school and earned a journeyman card in Roofing or architectural sheet metal ? the reason this metal roofing panel is not allowed to be attached thru the rib is because the roof panels move with thermal shock ,when the panels move any gap between the metal panel & the fastener will be exploited by expansion & contraction ,the expansion & contraction causes the washers to become lose 1st ,then the screw itself to back itself out ,with the panel screwed directly thru the metal laying flat on the deck there is no weak spot between the fastener and roof panel to be exploited by expansion & contraction. As for the " Silicone " arguement " just know this ,every major manufacturer of asphalt roofing materials ,metal roofing materials ,EPDM and TPO, PVC etc in the USA specifies either Vulkem brand or Sika Flex ,some architects will allow Vulkem to be substituted with Quad brand caulking ,the 1 thing these caulking have in common is that all are Polyurethane caulk ,I challenge anybody here to go outside there house and peel the " 50 year " Silicone off their windows ,it will pull right off with ease ,silicone is such a terrible waterproofing agent it's not used in even 1 commercial & industrial building trade & architects put notes in bid packets that in no case will silicone be a substitute material in any waterproofing. Polyurethane caulks are like roofing tar where once tooled in they adhere 100% to any surface ,and they can flex exactly like silicone, the only thing high temp silicone is ever specified for is on extremely hot vent pipes to caulk the pipe collar .

[@shirleygiebler5602]

Michael Ledford

[@royronquillo3384]

Michael Ledford i

[@bstevermer9293]

Michael Ledford Lots of good info, thank u

[@joeydavies794]

I had always heard, NOT to screw the rib...but that seems to be standard practice down here, S La. 1 on the rib, 1 on the narrow rib side, right next to it.

[@drmachinewerke1]

Here is one most do not do. Clean the metal with alcohol before applying polyurethane to it. Also all these polyurethane products will peel off of TPO. PVC. I get a kick out of a repair made on a TPO roof with a dab of sealant. You want a good metal roof. Get standing seam . These barn metal roofs belong on a a barn not your house . All of the screws with washers are going to fail. I do commercial roof repair for a living . And the biggest mistake made in the roofing business is hiring the lowest bid . You get what you pay for . We need a printed pattern single ply roof system . That will look like a slate system.

[@johnnyllooddte3415]

why would you want the short lip on top.. are you drinking.. the large lip and calk causes water to stay away from the ridge.. what good does the large ridge do AFTER water penetrates the ridge

[@johnandlizhostetler7195]

Sorry johnny llooddte you are wrong about which way to overlap, the short lip was designed, (if the manufacturer has his roll-form machine properly adjusted) to keep water from siphoning over ridge. When you install the wide side as your overlap you create a moisture trap between the two sheets where they meet on the flat, which can lead to rusting. Also there is no need to caulk the seams on a 3/12 pitch and up.

[@johnnyllooddte3415]

ahaha i am not wrong.. different manufacturers have different warranties and different installation methods for their warranties.. you can say the same thing underneath .. moisture will collect from atmospheric changes in humidity.. either way moisture IS going to collect between the 2 surfaces. on top or on bottom..its impossible not to.. and to say either way wont siphon defies physics of capillary action ahahah.. we use the proper caulk in these connections as required by the manufacturers ... if yours says put the short on top ..go for it.. down here our manufacturers require it otherwise

[@johnnyllooddte3415]

ahaha we caulk on verticles ahahhaa

[@mr1nutwonder]

for metal roofing use standing seam only, screws are hidden and covered. the screws he shows never last. cover them with silicone

[@photofinish8607]

Standing seam is not structural nor can be reused after removal. You are an idiot

[@garrettriley3654]

Photo Finish actually standing seam is a much better roof than a regular screw on roof much less likely to leak and last a whole lot longer

[@shadyfieldhomestead1974]

I’m building a lean to roof off the back of the shed. Do I need to place osb underneath my metal roof? I hadn’t planned on it. I was going to secure the metal to the purlins. The roof is only 8’x10’

[@RoofingIntelligence]

You can screw directly to purlins. I'd recommend 2x4's if there is no decking.

[@msea1065]

I'll show you how to cut metal with a razorblade

[@danmorris6387]

Sure, but cutting all those ribs may take some real time. You really cut rib panels that way. I call bs.

[@mobleyMobley]

Everything looked good but not enough screws in the boot.