5 Dollar Fix: Toyota Sienna Automatic Sliding Door Actuator Latch Motor Replacement Tips (Part 1/2)

Part 1/2: Tips + ideas for releasing the window bolts + the inner-door electrical panel
Part 2/2: More tips for removing the actuator assembly + how door panel comes off / on
Hope this helps! For more detailed info, visit Sienna Chat forums or Toyota Nation... there is a lot of comprehensive discussion that helped to read first...

[@DZ-bo8hq]

Great video. Just did this repair today by replacing the whole actuator assembly. I used a multi tool to cut through the plastic near the screws and got the old actuator assembly off. I then used the multitool to cut through the screws (the heads fell off into the door). I then replaced by running a zip tie to secure the new actuator. Was pretty easy.

[@esiceloff]

Just completed this repair on my passenger side sliding door on my 07' xle and thanks to this video I motor replacement myself for a little over $9. Of course I had the interior bolt issue but eventually got it out. Thanks for the tutorial

[@JBinCalifornia]

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER -- !!!

[@MattPenner]

Wow! I mean, wow! I just did your fix in about an hour and a half! Worked great! The suction cup and tape on the socket bit was a 10 second life saver! 😆 I used a 40w soldering iron on the end of the screw (the side facing you where you can see the brass fitting) and after about 30 seconds you can see the Loctite bubbling out from the threads. Turned the panel over, set it on a small box for a solid foundation, and used a cordless drill with a perfect fit Philips head. The screws came out like butter with no damage. I owe you a beer or something!! 😉🍻

[@JBinCalifornia]

FANTASTIC -- BEER ME -- LOL!!!

[@rayhakopian9619]

I just fixed my Sienna 2005 sliding door based on your video. it costed me $4.65 Plus tax and Shipping .. now it worked like a charm. THANKS

[@JBinCalifornia]

Hey RH... NIIICE!!!

[@mattbooker8496]

JBinCalifornia - I replaced my driver's side actuator latch motor last weekend. Works like a charm. The whole family is happy. The motor plus 2 new bolts to hold the actuator on is all it cost me. Thanks for the videos.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Hey, MB... It's so liberating, we know the feeling... so great!

[@smhuh]

Thanks for the video! Just successfully did this job, took $12 of parts and 2 hours, and saved over a thousand bucks!

[@JBinCalifornia]

+power margin SWEEEET!!!

[@carllinnington]

JB, Thanks so much for making and posting this/these video(s). Even though I didn't go all the way to the $5 fix (since I found the whole motor online for less than $60), I got a lot of very valuable advise from your tips and tricks and got the job done in no time...! The combination of the suction cups and the masking tape tricks for sockets mean that there's only 2 missing 10-mm bolts in the bottom of my sliding door (would have been many MORE) and it's back together and functioning. You da man!!!

[@JBinCalifornia]

FANTASTIC-O!!!

[@manjubshiva]

Had the same problem and my sliding door now works with my remote . Thanks for the video perfect . Every instruction was useful

[@JBinCalifornia]

That is GREAT news... 5-Dollar Fix!!!!!

[@johngumps1233]

Just worked off your video for a nine dollar fix. Used a soldering gun, not an iron, to free up the two mounting 6/32 screws. Held it on for a few min. and worked like a charm to loosen up the blue locktite. Many thanks for the tips:)

[@JBinCalifornia]

👍🏻 Great to hear! 👍🏻

[@woondongyang1]

Thank you so much. I fixed my 2004 Sienna door. I ordered the same motor from Digikey which worked well. I heated the two screws with small propane flame for about a minute and easily unscrewed them. It took about 2 hours for the whole fix. Thanks again.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Woondong Yang I also heard about heating up the screws (to loosen the Locktite)... great tip...

[@selfsameday7448]

Very comprehensive explanations ! Thank you , nice step by step show and tell !

[@kakcomments3019]

Ordered the motor, followed the instructions in the video, and everything went as described -- had a little trouble with the little screws (that hold the actuator to the panel -- like most people do). After you get the actuator out you can re-install it with generic screws, washers and lock washers (recommend you use some Loctite also). I had to drill out the top of the screws to get the actuator out -- from the panel. After the actuator is off, you can remove the 3 little screws on the back and take the actuator apart - then you can get the remaining bolt shafts out using vise-grips. Door works great once again. Well worth the experiment of time and $5 plus shipping. Used the suction cups, they worked great on the window. Thanks for sharing the video, you saved me a lot of pain and money.

[@JBinCalifornia]

+KAK Comments ....AWESOME!!! Glad it worked out!

[@patsfanstu9568]

Thanks for the video - saved $1,100 Toyota wanted for this repair. A couple of comments on the 2007 Sienna XLE. Spring for the suction cup and a speed out (or equivalent) set. The actuator screws went to mush the second I put a screwdriver in them - the heat had no chance to help. The speed out had the screws out in minutes. Replacement screw was M4-0.7 x 20mm plus a washer, and a little locktite or lock washer. The 2007 actuator assembly comes apart with 3 small screws and a clip. The motor is easily replaced from there, and it is the same digikey motor. Plan on having to pick up some body clips as well. A few of mine were so brittle they disintegrated when I popped the panel off. Thanks again - great work!

[@JBinCalifornia]

+patsfanstu 95 NICE~~~!!!

[@shawnkent5397]

Brilliant Jbin! Thanks for all of the helpful advice! This was only an hour long job (Using the parts from Digikey below on my 2007 AWD LX) thanks to these videos. 2 Things i did that were helpful. First I had a deep well 10mm socket that i used to take out the 2 bolts holding the window in. I did use your tape trick to hold the bolts into the socket! Worked perfect. I just held the window up while i took the inner panel out of the door. It want heavy or cumbersome. The 2nd thing i did was use an impact wrench with a phillips head bit to remove the 2 screws out of the back of the motor housing that held it onto the main unit. Very slowly while applying a lot of downward pressure i backed them out. This was an easy fix. Thanks again!

[@JBinCalifornia]

shawn kent Nice!!! That's right; the window could probably be wedged in place with a few shims, as well...

[@aviationinterviews]

Two thumbs up, thanks a ton for your videos! We dd this job in a couple hours and saved a whole bunch of cash!

[@JBinCalifornia]

MP... Sure thing + glad to hear!

[@BEACHBODYCOACHSID]

Thanks! Just fixed the left rear on my '05 using your video. Had to drill out those screws and replace them with $2 worth of hardware, but super easy.

[@JBinCalifornia]

SW... super news + as to be expected. 5-Dollar Fix + 2-Dollar hardware might add up. This project can be a big gamble ;)

[@tef2727]

Thank You!!!! Saved me a bunch of money. Had to drill out the one screw and replace with bolt and nut.

[@JBinCalifornia]

TF... I probably could've tried warming the loctite (blue stuff) on the bolt... so, if there's a next time, right?!

[@bestprepaid3507]

Very useful video. Thank you for letting me save hundreds bucks. As many guys had same problem, I failed to save two screws but found a door actuator motor repair all-in-one kit at eBay. It might be pricey but could be useful for someone like me who doesn't have many extras. I just needed basic home tools such as phillips screw driver, 10 mm wrench and a electric drill with 1/4 drill bit. Easy job with a lot of pleasure.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Glad it worked for you... let others know!

[@lorilovescarbs7259]

Just fixed mine like this, the screws on the actuator was a pain but other than that it went great. Did have to use a dremel on them. Thanks for posting this.

[@JBinCalifornia]

WONDERFUL!!!

[@seiberbb]

Thanks so much! This saved my family a lot of $$$. Thanks to your tips, the job went great and the only mishap I had was that I broke the little plastic clip on the actuator when trying to pry it back to open it to get to the motor. I don't think that matters much. Thanks!!!

[@JBinCalifornia]

Just noticed your comment… Without that little clip nine months later still working OK? I suppose the door could… still get away without it?

[@cssplat]

Thanks so much for the helpful video! I got the job done today. Those stinking screws that hold that actuator in were such an incredible pain. I was banking on getting lucky and being able to just screw them out. The first one came out just fine! The second one required the dremel.

[@JBinCalifornia]

LOL "Those stink in' screws..." I wish I heated mine up before trying remove them. Glad it worked ;)

[@stix562]

Heating them causes the nut to melt free inside the housing - I used a solder iron tip - the screws were still extremely tight and would not budge - I dremeled a slot and walla the screw budged along with the retaining nut which spun inside the housing.. off to use the dremel - what a fantastic tool that thing is...!! One tool I recommend everyone to own - a Dremel!

[@johnmosser9681]

Outstanding follow instructions on how to analyze. As far as window bolts I loosened them and used my magnetic stick to turn them out as well as to start them! Ordered part and was here in 2 days the screws for modular were tough just drill the head off then when you separate the case you can get a good bite on them a little heat and turn out.. Any way Great find!

[@JBinCalifornia]

+john mosser ...Glad it worked out!...

[@Mikhail_Tatarnikov]

Thanks a lot for the tips!My problem was a bended hook on the spring inside the actuator broke off, bent another small hook, works perfectly now. Took me a while to figure out where the problem was, but saved $5 on the motor this time. I used an impact driver and a new PH2 bit to unscrew the actuator, worked as a charm!

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Mike T ...GREAT!!! $0 Fix beats $5 fix any day!!!

[@JohnSmith-bw8xv]

+Mike T Could you explain what bit that was exactly ? Thanks

[@Mikhail_Tatarnikov]

+Amulke Yid There's a spring inside the actuator, I think it's designed to absorb shocks and adjust the pulling force. The spring is hooked on both ends, so when the motor inside the actuator starts, it twists/screws the spring from one end, the spring starts to put efforts on the other end attached to the actuator arm. On practice it's well camouflaged with a few cogs, but the basics are the same. In my case the spring broke on one end and wasn't attached to the motor, so although the motor worked, it didn't twist the spring and no efforts were put on the actuator arm. A small hook bent on the broken side fixed the attachment, though I have no idea how long it's going to last. And yes, use impact driver to unscrew the actuator, they use the blue thread locker that sometimes seize the bolts.

[@JohnSmith-bw8xv]

+Mike T Thanks for that explanation . I will now proceed.

[@babababa5595]

Thanks for the video and saving me lots of $$$

[@marca90210]

Same as Japanese Estima, Australian and NZ Previa. Thanks!

[@jiromysuperhero]

Fixed my 2004 Sienna over the weekend. Actuator screws came right out with no issue. Whole job took only 2 hours. Only hick-up was during testing fix the door would not fully open. This was due to safety feature when window is more than a few inches open. I took most everything apart and put back together before figuring it out.

[@JBinCalifornia]

STYLIN'...!!!

[@stix562]

Yes your window regulator has a plastic movement - if it comes out of position it will not move the actuator with the cable attached. I wish my screws came out so easy - must have been someone already fixed yours once before.. Wish mine came out so quick - I would have been done in 40 minutes...

[@RedneckJediOKC]

Sharing my experience. I thought I'd be able to find the heavy duty suction cups locally, but had no luck. After watching another semi-related video, I pushed the window all the way up and used a good amount of painter's tape to hold the window in place. There was a lot of lubricant around the door handle assembly and metal bracket. I kept getting it on my hands when I thought I wasn't close to it. The tape trick on a 10mm deep socket was great for removing the window screws from the panel. I was able to use the deep socket as a screw driver to finish removing the screw carefully and start the screw carefully when reassembling. It wasn't necessary to remove the cable like he did. It probably makes things a little easier, but you'll have plenty of room to get at both sides of the panel to remove the actuator assembly if the cable is in place. As for the infamous screws used to mount the actuator assembly, I used a Wagner heat gun on high for 10-20 seconds to heat up the blue Loctite on each screw. I used wood shims to protect the surrounding plastic and wires. Be advised that the Loctite will cool quickly and reseal. I had to heat each screw up a couple of times to remove them cleanly without stripping them. Once out, there was still Loctite on the screws and in the threads of the actuator assembly. I cleaned out the threads of the actuator assembly as best as I could. I borrowed his advice by replacing the manufacturer's screws with M4x0.70x25 (not 20) hex head screws, two washers per screw and nylon lock nuts. I doubt I'll have to replace this again in the van's lifetime, but you never know. The hex head won't strip like a Phillip's head screw, and I was concerned that any residual Loctite in the threads would need to be forced through. The actuator itself was a breeze to disassemble and replace the motor. With the front of the assembly facing you, just pull from the top and it will open up like a clam shell. The 2 main gears lift right out, and the motor is plugged in to the bottom half. The screw gear on the motor pulls comes off easily and everything reassembles cleanly. There's no need to ensure the position of the gears since you could tell that the metal arm turns freely, but if you're concerned, just record the position of the two gears. It took me about 2 hours just keeping things organized and understanding what was going on with the Loctite on the screws.

[@JBinCalifornia]

+RedneckJediOKC ...Great ideas + great details...

[@jimbarbarabrinkman9915]

RedneckJediOKC bgmjiuluo

[@babylandculiacan6169]

I got somehow the cupholder in the dash stuck, it looks normal but wont open. Sienna 2012, any ideas what to do?

[@user-wt5pw6il8s]

This video is very helpful! Thanks. I tried this repairing today. Have two tips here to share. For the Loctite holding the two screw, I tried to use a soldering iron to heat up the screw from the screw bottom side at beginning. It didn't work. Then I tried to heat it up from the screw head side. It works great. The whole screw was hot. When I touch the screw bottom, I can feel it is hot. I don't have problem to remove the two screws and use them again late. Another tricky thing is the window. I tried the tape it to prevent it drop today. But I feel the window can hold its position well even without the tape. It seems that the tape is useless. But when I tried to put the panel back after repairing, I find I have to lower the window control system little bit to make it get under the windows. Otherwise two small metal pieces on the metal bar keep hitting the window. Hope this helpful.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Glad you had success - - let others know!

[@oldengineer8562]

An excellent treatment of the project. Just a couple of things to make it easier. After lowering the window to access the bolts that attach it, use some good duct tape and support it front and rear to the top of the frame, several inches on the outside of the glass and pulled up over the top of the frame. Remove the two bolts and lift the glass several inches to free it. Use a third piece of tape on the center of the window and over the top to support it while you are working. Plan to replace the two bolts holding the latch assembly. Use a drill to remove the top of the Phillips screws, I used a 5/32". Drill into the Phillips cross just to the point where the head pops off. When you open the housing to make the motor replacement, grip the remains of the two screws with a Vise Grip plier and turn them out. Have on hand a couple of new M4-0.7 X 20mm Pan Head Phillips machine screws to replace them. Again, an excellent job!

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Old Engineer ...Woo Hoo!...

[@akbar12120]

JBinCalifornia It's posted more than 2 years. still helpful as today I've fixed mine for less than $10. Locktite was PIA. Drilling was last resort. did damage the casing. but still was able to use it. Thanks for very useful video and honestly spreading goodness among humanity, specially Sienna owners. Bless You

[@JBinCalifornia]

Akbar... Thanks for your kind words... I've got friends with other cars that I now realize could just as well replace a motor on their own, too (i.e. a passenger door that doesn't lock or unlock)... Glad to hear the good news... pass it on!

[@cachemole]

How long to get the motor from DigiKey? If it's in China could take 3 months to North America...no..?

[@hedayathamid1980]

Hello there. Thank you for sharing this video. I have a 2005 Sienna LE and just recently I replaced a broken passenger side slider door cable since the time it broke. I can pull on the door handle to open and close the automatic slider door. The problem I am having now is , however, I cannot get the switches inside the car nor the remote to automatically open or close the slider. When I hit the switches, I hear a little clicking noise and just a slight jerking, but no full motion. Is this video the fix for this problem? If not, do you have any other videos that would describe how to solve my particular problem? Appreciate any help from you or others. Hedayat

[@JBinCalifornia]

Yes... door slightly starts to open and fails = time for a 5-Dollar Fix... woo hoo!

[@moium]

Great vid, JB. Thank you. Can you tell me if your door would open manually or not? I don't think that was mentioned in the video. Thanks again.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Mark Yes... but slowly.

[@xblackjack99]

great video. THANK YOU. dont be afraid to do this. watch this video, parts 1 and 2. Also watch Rico L...as he is a garage mechanic and had a few tips this video did not cover. watch them 2 and 3 more times...Order the 5 dollar motor from digi. it is a stupid easy replacement in the actuator. the whole repair cost me less than 15 bucks in parts as i bought the suction cups to make my life easier. Toyota will charge you $1500-2000. i feel an hour of my time and 15 bucks is better deal

[@kameelpersaud400]

How to put 04 Toyota Siena sliding door to manually

[@mikeiowa190]

Question: Does the motor P14346-ND work for both doors? I would expect that the motor spins one way if the positive is attached to one lead on the motor and the other way if the motor is attached to the negative. If that's the case, then it should work on both doors.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Same motor for both doors = ok... Yes... 5-Dollar Fix... woo hoo!

[@dq7143]

" ...and here's my Star Wars Droid door". Haha

[@handymanskill4730]

Hi, my sienna 2005 right side power door do not closing by itself , when it come near to closing it going backward, what is the reason, is the motor got weaken??.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Yes... door slightly starts to open and fails = time for a 5-Dollar Fix... woo hoo!

[@pattykashiwamura4953]

Thank you for doing this video. My handle just broke and also my sliding door doesn't close properly. Like it's not aligned and would stop right before it could close all the way and won't lock. How do I fix that? Dealership said I need to pay $800 to replace and fix.

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Patty Kashiwamura ...Do you mean the 'handle' actually broke? Or, that the buttons on your fob and inside the car don't 'shut' the door (that's what this video's tips help you fix) -- for sure, a symptom is that when the little motor needs replacing = door doesn't shut all the way or seem like 'jerks' in place and is misaligned.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Part 1/2: Tips + ideas for releasing the window bolts + the inner-door electrical panel Part 2/2: More tips for removing the actuator assembly + how door panel comes off / on Hope this helps! For more detailed info, visit Sienna Chat forums or Toyota Nation... there is a lot of comprehensive discussion that helped to read first...

[@Scottiej430]

both my sliding doors on my 2008 sienna stopped working at same time. Dealer said for both sliding door motors $3625.82 want to do the fix myself but want to make sure its right part. the part number they quoted me was $1300 each. whats the dif. between the motor and motor assembly?

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Scottiej430 j ...So, you can get the whole new assembly w/ motor inside for about 80-120 dollars, I think (look online); the $5 motor fits inside that!

[@yengyang8061]

I need some help with my 2004 Toyota sienna. I don't know what's wrong with both of my sliding power door? it just can't open anymore.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Hi YY... so, did you check the buttons that de-activate your power sliders (buttons located lower left of steering wheel above lever to pop your hood)? Maybe check that first... Good Luck

[@SpaceG95]

does the door have to be open in order to remove the panel

[@JBinCalifornia]

+SpaceG95 ...Yes... (see the end of Part 2 --> there's a screw to remove at the bottom of the panel at the rear bottom corner)

[@dfisher0610]

This sounds like the problem our '06 sienna has. It mostly works when you yank on the outside handle but if you push the inside buttons the door sounds like it wants to open but just budges slightly like it's trying. So it's the actuator latch motor that needs replacing?

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Diana Fisher YEP, you described the symptom exactly right. Time for a 5-dollar fix!!!

[@dfisher0610]

+JBinCalifornia I saw another video where a guy just replaced the whole actuator motor- part is like $85. You're saying the $5 piece you ordered is inside that $85 part? And it's easy to swap out?

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Diana Fisher ...Yes, exactly right!

[@909xyz]

My manual sliding door won't lock automatically, but it will unlock automatically when unlock is pressed. Is the $5 digikey actuator the solution? Also, if the actuator is the problem, do I need to take off all the bolts and pull the whole inside of the door off? Thanks.

[@JBinCalifornia]

Some Siennas come with just the passenger door automated. Ours came with both... there is a whole different motor and cable for open/close automatic action. So, to answer your question: is the 5-Dollar fix for me? = YES... the actuator latches and unlatches the lock. I remember ours unlocking, but not locking. Once the inner mechanical panel is un-bolted, it'll "lean out" for you to work on things -- for it to lean out, un-attach that one upper cable... not necessary to remove everything (that would take a lot of time)...

[@JBinCalifornia]

Oh, to be sure: which button(s) are you pressing to unlock the slider door?

[@909xyz]

I'm pressing the unlock at the driver door.

[@JBinCalifornia]

+909xyz Hi again... Hmmm, now I'm not sure if it is your door switch vs actuator... I wish I knew more, but I don't. The only other thought that comes to mind is the child safety switch, black, on the slider door when you have it open. Good luck!

[@hugocastillo3295]

On my sienna sliding doors (need your help) 2005

[@JBinCalifornia]

+Hugo Castillo ...Hey, Hugo -- how about finding a neighbor or community friend(with tools!) with a car like yours + then fix your cars together? Good luck!

[@Aktar1976]

I ordered the STANDARD MOTOR 12850 RPM 12VDC to digikey.com (P14346-ND PAN14EE12AA1). Price was $4.66 without shipping. Got the part after two days. Replace the motor and my sliding door is working great with remote key. Thanks for this video.

[@GSK9B1T3]

I should have watched this video FIRST! I broke the little clip......rookie.....Any chance you know where to find a new little clip thing?

[@JBinCalifornia]

I wish I knew where to get the clip… It comes with the whole assembly -- perhaps a local junkyard might be your friend :-) good luck!

[@GSK9B1T3]

AutoZone has a small pack of "Door Lock Rod Clips". Works great if you fail to watch this video and break a clip!

[@JBinCalifornia]

Chandler Nuttal that is AWESOME!!!!!

[@dicksonsum986]

thanks for locating the motor (3:53 of the video). it was the best time saver of all. i used a dremel to cut the motor out from the part housing (an L-shape cut about 1/16" deep following the shape of the motor), without removing the part from the door panel, careful not to damage the spiral gear connected to the d-shaped shaft. pop the motor out from the 2 blade conductors and snap in the new motor in its place and insert the spiral gear into the d-shaped shaft. 2 wire ties to strap motor assembly back together to the part and for easy access in case the motor fails again. i used aluminum duct tape over the wire ties to keep part together in case of movement due to vibration. the digikey motor is good for the 2007 sienna too. www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=p14346-nd i.ebayimg.com/images/g/bZ4AAOSwv0tVUPIc/s-l500.jpg

[@JBinCalifornia]

NICE! So glad 😁 everyone is sharing their tips, too... 5-Dollar Fix!!!!!

[@govtpeaches]

I did this same thing. I left the assembly in the door, used a dremel to cut a window (there's photos of this method on the instructables website that helped me figure out where to cut). The window I first cut wasn't quite big enough, so I cut out more and got it out. Carefully put the new motor in, and used hot glue to put the whole thing back together. The biggest piece that I cut out included the connection to the motor, so you have to be careful to align that properly. My hot glue secret is that I used plastic bits, this time from a plastic spray-can lid cut with scissors to size, to apply on top of the hot glue to improve the tensile strength of the glue job. I felt this is needed since I had to make the additional cuts to remove the old motor. Worked really well. This video was super helpful, and talked me into this cutout method since it's clearly a pain to get the assembly out, where my repair only took 45min or so. Also, I figured if I screwed up the cutout method, I could still go ahead and put in a new assembly. This was a fun repair. Thanks, all, thanks, JB, woohoo!

[@yengyang8061]

thanks, but I think both doors are jam.

[@stix562]

Why take the window out ; Too much! Just put two dent puller suction cups (glass carriers work too) on the window (with the window completely rolled up) at the base of the door/window frame - the window will not fall as the door frame is now able to prevent it slipping via the suction cups. Then you can remove all the bolts around the perimeter and also the bolts for the window register - the window regulator motor has 3 T-25 Screws behind it. Pay attention to all your bolt lengths as you pull them out. They are different! Do not heat the Actuator Motor screws or the retaining nuts - you will end up loosening the retaining nuts in the plastic housing and they will free spin inside the actuator housing. If the screws strip - dremel a slot in them to try and free them that way. If they still do not come out dremel the heads/washers off (they are one head and washer). Then the unit will pop out and you can deal with removing the screws easier with the unit out. On mine the nuts came out and I had to reinsert them - I also added a retaining nylon lock nut on them to be sure they were locked in. The screws are 4mm x 0.7mm(thread pitch) x 20mm - easily found in the metric section at Lowes.. the nuts I purchased were there too.. Cheers.. This is not very very very complicated - it is straight forward and simple .. although tedious because of the screws that were used on the actuator! I recommend hex heads, socket heads, torx heads or something other than philips screw heads .. and definitely do not use Permanent Loctite!!!!

[@JBinCalifornia]

Awesome... 5-Dollar Fix... woo hoo!

[@TheRookie1216]

Super easy to just drill out the loctited screws. Replace with hex key so you can use Allen key to reinstall kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqOymHSYe76Jirs

[@howellkc1]

Jesus dude, that was painful watching your video. I don't think it told me one thing about the latch switch not closing the door fully when its attempting to close. Please get better with what you show and what you say.. Get to the point or else you will loose people. I can't get this time of my life back.