5 Reasons NOT to Buy an Integrated Amplifier

[@cheapaudioman]

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[@WACONimages]

Great Video again! You might be interested maybe in German small audio company Abacus-Electronics. Minimalistic looks but a way of their own with audio engineering. From quiet affordable but great sounding till a step up in price. You can find some very good German reviews.

[@quantumchang4410]

I thought you were gonna talk about monoblock amplifiers.

[@billpaxton1345]

@P T Buying a separate sound processor is the way around that for having multi channel setups for home theater etc. just WAY more expensive and "intense" if you dont know what youre doing

[@billpaxton1345]

@P T oh yeah, a separate processor is sometimes better for balanced connections and running higher power amps blah blah blah.... Thousands of dollars more for it and "accessories".

[@billpaxton1345]

@P T arcam avr? that good? ill check price on that... nice heads up, thanks

[@caramel109]

I gave up after the first point. So integrated amps are "expensive" because dealers, markups etc. And that doesn't apply to separates?? Plus I'm yet to see any situation where an integrated amp costs more than an equivalent pre/power setup, so for those of us on a limited budget, integrated is often the best bang for buck.

[@eddihaskell]

Stand-alone amps are more versatile and sound better.

[@Frankonero12]

@@eddihaskell How are they more versatile? If anything, integrated are the most versatile amps you can buy.

[@eddihaskell]

@@Frankonero12 Well, for example, I wanted to upgrade my Emotiva amp with a Parasound Amp this year - both are attached to a pre-amp. I can use the same pre-amp, sell the Emotiva amp and them use my new Parasound power amp. It is componentized. That is what I mean.

[@Frankonero12]

@@eddihaskell Oh ok, selling one power amp to buy a diferent power amp isn't what i would call versatile.

[@eddihaskell]

@@Frankonero12 I see what you are saying. BTW an Integrated amp can make a good preamp if it has preamp out (I am using my very good Music Hall integrated amp for this function) so an integrated amp can be functional in this regard. I just like separates.

[@smargo77]

ive had integrated amps that sounded better than my separates - ive had seperates that sounded better than my integrateds - it really depends on where u are at in your audiophile journey and where u are in your life - it changes like the seasons in the northeast - when i have tubes - i want solid state - when i have integrateds - i want separates - when i have separates i want integrateds - when i have class d - i want class a - there is no rhyme or reason to want i want at any given time

[@gamblers220]

Spot on! The joy of Circle Logic at its best - too funny and can very much relate

[@dennishill290]

I...feel ya...Bro....lol... !

[@jimnagel5611]

I AGREE - A PROPERLY DESIGNED AMP WILL HAVE A POWER SUPPLY FULLY CAPABLE OF DELIVERING MORE THAN ENOUGH CLEAN POWER TO AT LEAST IT RATED WATTAGE -- WITH A KNOWN REPUTABLE AUDIO COMPANY THIS IS MOSTLY A NON ISSUE -- AS IS THE ISOLATION ASPECT -- AND SOME OF THE BETTER INT AMPS DO HAVE SEPARATE POWER SUPPLIES FOR EACH CHANNEL -- THEY'RE HIGH DOLLAR -- BUT THEY SOUND IT TOO -- LISTEN TO THE VIOLA LABS CHORALE IF YOU GET A CHANCE -- IT WAS END GAME FOR ME -- ALL I'LL EVER NEED

[@paradoxstudios6639]

You might need NAD, I still have my integrated from 1999, however the left channel goes a little silent from time to time, it had the most perfect satisfyingly sound an audiophile could ever crave, but looking at new NAD they seem so far out, class D only, no more analogue, everything streaming, they seem to be straying away from their old philosophy, I might go with Vincent Audio, Rotel.

[@apolloares6114]

As an audiophile I want to have it all, even though I don’t need it.

[@KBoneZone]

When I upgraded the power cable on my can opener the difference was night and day. The cans now open with such musicality and holographic depth that it brings tears to my eyes.

[@asx1248]

Those tears can join the tears you shed when you paid for the power cable too!

[@Error2username]

Thats amazing, do you regulary hear music in everything?

[@superd222tube]

Try a new charging cord for your phone. When its used as a source through a streamer and DAC to a cheap Chinese amp, you can’t hear any difference. Quite remarkable!

[@ashman0071]

and then you got clean power and good gear and realized you ain't funny no more .......

[@cheapaudioman]

Hey now. When I upgraded my power cable on my microwave it made Korn. So I’m pretty happy about that

[@LarcR]

Forever chasing "ideal" separates can be even worse than chasing the ideal integrated amp because there are so many more separates to chase. Unfortunately, the only way to know whether you are moving up is often to actually buy the unit in question. That can get expensive since dealers also make their margins on separates as well as on integrateds. Most manufacturers don't sell direct.

[@phillamoore157]

EXACTLY! I’ve got no problem with separate components per se….but, it’s impossible to know what to pair, and why, and the money that can be spent trying to figure it out can get obscene. This conversation is almost entirely moot, given how subjective “better” is, and short of reading reviews, you really have no idea what to buy and pair with what, and why. Growing up in the 70’s, there was none of this, yet our music sounded great.

[@JustBrowsing777]

I agree that for most people an integrated amp is probably a better buy, less fuss and less risk in many ways. If you're very knowledgeable and particular about what you want, then separates my be a better way to go. I don't believe in generalizations as much as in identifying which use case is better for you. I'm on the fence right now myself as for which route to take 😂

[@batape1965]

Some people LOVE chasing audio "perfection". If you are happy with your system, that is all that matters.

[@ziqfriq]

Yeah, what was said about dealer margins and manufacturer margins applies equally to separates, so that argument is irrelevant.

[@eddihaskell]

Why? You can purchase a superb Emotive power amp for about $500 new, less refurbished. Remeber, the only controls are on and off. I have one and it is powerful and open. Depending on what you listen to, you might not need a full preamp. Do you listen to vinyl? If you don't, you can get get away with a passive preamp which will distort the sound the least-- the only control you need is your volume pot. I'll make an exception for an integrated tube amp-- just make sure it has a preamp out function. The once from China have been getting good reviews and are very affordable. Read reviews here on KZbin.

[@chrislj2890]

Integrated amp bad, got it. My next purchase, an integrated amp. Seriously.

[@hankiuyi]

Thanks for all your wonderful content! There are reasons to buy integrated amps as well. Of many, few are: 1. To save rack/vertical space 2. To save money - well, this goes both ways because separates (pre amp + power amp combo) are more expensive. btw, not many companies now a ways produce pre amps 3. To simplify set up - btw, we can still hook up DACs with int amps 4. To enjoy good quality audio - quality/sound of integrated amp is as good as separates Having said all that above, indeed, if having more options/customizations are what you need, separates are the way to go.

[@erynne936]

i chose an integrated amp for now as space is a constraint for me, i love all the neat separates options and tube amps but i don't really have the horizontal space in my current arrangement to be putting these neat little guys all over the place

[@prterhorst6204]

Yeah, no. Can't agree. Randy, you are getting away from the premise of cheapaudioman. There are a lot of great integrated amps from Emotiva, Yamaha, Denon, Onkyo, Marantz, Cambridge, NAD, Sony, etc. Integrated amps solve a lot of problems for music lovers. They are a simple solution for those of us who are tired of shopping for separate components. Technically speaking, there's just one power supply to covert to DC, signal pathways are much shorter (don't need all those external cables) and internal components are matched and shielded. The big chip makers provide proprietary designs at bulk prices to the big brands, hence why they don't disclose the DAC chip source. Big brands can work on smaller margins, so there's still room for retailers/ shops to earn a buck and be competitive. Yes, one can *almost* always build a better sounding system with separates, but it takes a lot of time, trial and error to buy/try/cry/sell, then start over. YT channels like yours are a big help, but then doesn't your business model rely on testing a lot of separates? (Just sayin'.) In the end, the consumer is still spending his/her/their bucks to sort out what works best for them.

[@AnthonyStabler]

I've got a Marantz 1040 I bought for $150 in 1976. A Mac Mini plugged into a Topping E50, a Technics turntable, CD transport & a Marantz cassette deck from the 80's. All pushed through a pair of Polk or Infinity speakers. Spreading that investment over 45 years makes me the 'Cheap Audio Man'. And it all sounds great! I took your recommendation for the Topping E50 because of the remote. It's nice when I'm feeling lazy.

[@chinmeysway]

nice. i dig the old receivers lots. oh what is the mac mini’s roll?

[@ericmann1781]

In my experience separates is just about always more expensive than integrated, even when buying used. That's why I've been looking for a used M5si or M6si, or Atoll in200 or in300, maybe even an Exposure 3510 if I hit the jackpot and find one, then add a good dac with it, probably the Geshelli dac considering it's great price and voila.

[@barrygalvin8631]

I’ve had separates since the 80’s. Lots of old carver and a piece or two from Phase linear units! My first setup was a receiver from radio shack in 1980 I think it’s the STA-2100d. It still works too! Great video today Randy.

[@gewamser]

This video is essentially correct, factual…but as a person who has had both separates, integrated amps and full blown receivers, me personally prefers receivers. I have a MAC 4100 and nice Kyocera 651, and both are fully satisfying to my ears.

[@nelsono4315]

I have owned both receivers and integrated amps and loved both but I have been a separates guy for over 30 years. I had the Carver M500t power amp paired with an NAD preamp for most of those 30 years. I recently got the Schiit Freya+ preamp and I pair that with the Jeff Rowland 125 power amp. I'm a happy camper 🙂

[@petermartin9494]

You would be, if you had to put up with a NAD pre amp for all those years...

[@ziqfriq]

And I'll bet that Jeff Rowland power amp set you back a lot more than just about any integrated you could buy, which was one of my points. Even an entry level power amp, if there is such a thing.

[@nelsono4315]

@@ziqfriq the Rowland was the most expensive piece of audio gear I've purchased. It did not bother me because I had the money and wanted an amp of superior quality. At my age it will be the last amp I purchase. No regrets whatsoever.

[@kimallen5068]

Matter of opinion I respect your opinion. I'm happy with my Yamaha a/s501.

[@nelsono4315]

@@kimallen5068 I am not trying to discourage anyone from getting a receiver or an integrated amp. If that's what you like, go for it ! I am merely stating what I have.

[@Michael-xz1nk]

I've had a separate amp / pre-amp for decades. However, if I had to buy today, I'd absolutely go for an integrated amp for simplicity. I have no desire to have a ton of boxes and peripherals cluttering up my listening space. For me, a perfect system is an integrated amp, speakers, WiiM Mini (streamer / DAC) and an iPad. Buy good, buy once and focus on the music and be satisfied. As a side note: quote of the year...I recently read somewhere...I'll paraphrase... "The less you critically listen, the more you enjoy your music." To each their own.

[@Jaytecx]

It’s so true just to buy well, then enjoy your music. Or else spend forever in audiolimbo.

[@Michael-xz1nk]

You obviously get it but so many do not. Different strokes I guess. Enjoy!!

[@scanspeak00]

I lot of us have integrated amps that we purchased 10-20 years ago, back when they did not include digital circuits, DACs, etc, and have big beefy power supplies. I still have my Marantz KI Pearl Lite and it does a great job paired with my Topping DAC. Its also the best bang for my buck.

[@rainasong8712]

I was going to mention that being a good option.

[@stereoazimuth]

Totally agree! Not only that, the preamp, the DAC, the logic, the display, the input connections (some have LAN connections), and the amp, are all run on the same transformer and power supply. So it is not just about upgrading cables or upgrading power supplies. Also power of the amplifier section is going to be compromised and limited due to size, weight, and heat constraints. Plus, if the amp dies, everything dies.

[@CarlMurawski]

I dug the video! Plus I always admire the Justice poster behind you. Anyhow, I have a video idea for you: the best value system builds at $1,000, $2,000, and $5,000. It would be fun to hear your picks and why you chose them.

[@bikdav]

I've always associated integrated amplifiers as having everything onboard EXCEPT the tuner. In other words - the alternative to the receiver. Did I misunderstand something?

[@gabrielgarza863]

I will have to totally agree with you Randy. I have gone with separates 5 months ago and it's been the best. Currently running a modi multibit for DAC, using the Schiit Vali 2 ++ for the headphone/preamp, and using the Douk Audio ST-01 Pro for amp, and Sony SSCS 5 Bookshelf speakers. The clarity has been so nice and I haven't even upgraded the tubes on the Douk Audio yet. Now granted this is near field. This does give me a better understanding of what I would want once I start my journey to get my audio den set up. Next step is to get a Valhalla 2 from Schiit. Then I can have my Vali at work haha

[@ginom407]

I got started with separate components via the used audio market some 25 years ago. It took some time, but I was able find components that made huge improvements to my sound. You don't have to pay full price to build a great system! Thanks Randy!!! 👍

[@toddlaure2983]

What sites or shopping places did you go to?

[@ginom407]

@@toddlaure2983 US Audio Mart and Audiogon. Happy Hunting!!!

[@jrockofages5413]

I still have my Sansui 9090 ftom 1974. One of the best purchases I ever made.

[@rolandlickert2904]

During my HiFi journey over 55 years, I used all kinds of Amps systems/setups eventually I had NAD S-300 integrated the cost at that time was around 2800US however I was able to get it for 1200US absolute quality top notch had it for 20 years. As I got older I got tired of the cable salad and went for an all-one box that can be upgraded by Module meaning it is flexible including BlueOS and today Integrated is pretty good. I'm in a stage of my life where I don't need to upgrade anymore had enough of it. It is a personal choice and I guess when you are younger you like to play around which I did way back. You forget to mention with a Module option you can keep updated and of course, below 1000US you have limited options. But for around 1800US you can get something decent.

[@perttis]

Have i understood right that definition of integrated amplifier is as simple as combination of pre- and power amplifier? And DAC, phono stages, etc are just extra features on integrated amplifier?

[@nicholasfox6198]

NAD C399 Integrated -- Amp tech from Masters series (and pre-outs) -- 32/384 ESS Sabre DAC (also from Masters series) -- Future expansion through MDC card slots x2 -- BluOS/Dirac MDC card in slot one -- HDMI eARC -- $2699 retail as equipped (got mine for $2300 as dealer demo)

[@Baudesign]

So, if Musical Fidelity would sell direct to consumers, would a M5si Integrated amp be on your recommanded components list? Because, think about it, integrated amps make you save on gazillion dollars expensive AudioQuest interconnect câbles, on chassis (ask your friend at Emotiva how much a chassis costs, I am curious), on duplicate parts like the AC input and other little whatchamacallit little parts inside. Not sure that integrated amps are to avoid. Not sure.

[@odwatchguy]

It is so much fun to watch the video and read the comments on anything controversial like this. I have had receivers, integrated and separates and I must say I think the separates were the best to me.

[@colinbrowne281]

Completely agree with your thesis here. Think of the power supplies, interconnects, and cables as your "system". You can then swap components in and out. Buy quality. Buy it once. When upgrading, consider the entire signal path. I've had my (integrated) amp for about 25 yrs. I'm looking at upgrading - there's been movement in power amplification technologies that make this worthwhile. But my speakers are perfectly fine for my (smallish brightish) living room. The issue for me now becomes that to upgrade to the pre and power amps I want is a $12K expense (I'm contemplating Holo Audio preamp and Schiit Audio Tyr monoblocks) - CRAZY!!! Maybe for now I contemplate the Schiit Audio Freya+ and either Burson Timekeeper3x GT or Schiit Vidar 2 monoblocks (the Aegirs would be great but by Dynaudio speakers are relatively insensitive 86dB and 4 Ohms...)

[@airgunnersc9335]

Nope. I will never give up my Sansui AU7900 integrated amp that powers my JBL 100t's. So many inputs and yes I stream through it and also use a Ifi Zen phone preamp through one of the tape inputs. Of course it is a 1975 vintage piece of gear that has been completely restored to new. Just a complete versatile amp. For me, perfect.

[@JukeboxAlley]

I have to agree with that model, after well over a hundred (maybe even 2-300) different amps/receivers etc., the Sansui au-7900 is in my top 10 favorites, if not higher on the list, maybe even cracks the top 5, it's been a few years but I'd have to hear it again. Also, that's an awesome set of speakers you have also, big lively fellas.

[@airgunnersc9335]

@@JukeboxAlley The speakers are the rare black lacquer finish. Most people have never seen a pair because the finish gave JBL problems and not very many were made.

[@JukeboxAlley]

@@airgunnersc9335 those are keepers, I've only saw one set for sale in the past with black piano finish, I believe it was only a special order option if I remember right, you never see them around.

[@JukeboxAlley]

@@airgunnersc9335 and they quit making them because it caused them problems, I would imagine some people beat them up and didnt take care of them was the most likely the problem, the black finish is tough to keep perfect that's for sure, that's interesting, just gained some knowledge I didn't know about them. So if you have a sharp set I'd say hang onto em for sure.

[@MrNeverlift]

One thing to look for on integrateds or receivers, vintage or new is the Pre Amp Out / Power Amp In jumper found on many models. It is usually a metal U shaped metal bar. I call it the nail. Pull the nail and install just about any RCA cable known to man (even the cheap audio man). You will be amazed. I discovered this trick in the late 70's when I was in audio retail.

[@Tarken10]

I thought the premise of your channel was to review budget components that can produce audiophile-like sound. The cheapest way for non-audiosnobs, uh, I mean non-audiophiles to build a good-sounding system is to do what I did: Yamaha A-S301 INTEGRATED AMP $349.95 Polk Audio ES20 Bookshelf Speakers currently $319 Yamaha CD-S300 CD Player $150 BlueDento BLT-HD Bluetooth Adapter $110 Sounds great to this non-audiophile musician and music lover.

[@StephenMcGregor1986]

No, you NEED $150,000 USD minimum of acoustic treatment (you could die otherwise). Then you NEED separate processors, preamps, phono stages, power amps, active equalization, or you are just not taking things seriously mate. Hell, you NEED to make a cheap 7.11.4 system if you are actually taking things seriously mate. Get an isolated island. Build an auditorium sized building. Integrate Meyer Sound line arrays for height channels and per channel subwoofers. 7x Dan D'Agostino Relentless Monoblocks. 7x Magico M9 loudspeakers. Add 4x Ascendo Audio 80 inch "The 80 Sub Pro" subwoofers. Trinnov Altitude 32 + Trinnov Amplitude 8 (processing and height channel amplification). Crestron Home Automation System with Savant Pro added for redundancy and expanded control options. Lutron HomeWorks for advanced lighting control. Advanced climate control system ensuring comfort during extended viewing sessions. Nordost Odin 2 cabling for all audio and video connections. Kaleidescape Strato S. MadVR. PlayStation 5, Xbox Series X. Direct fiber link to NASA, CERN, SpaceX and the entire internet infrastructure with mates at Google, Microsoft and links to the BGP architecture. 400Gb/s networking with NVIDIA ConnectX-7 400G cards for internal networking. Powered with own custom built thorium-based molten salt fission reactor. Panasonic DP-UB9000. Collaboration with an acoustic design firm like PMI Ltd. Christie CP4455-RGB projector. Stewart Filmscreen Director's Choice VeLux projector screen. Torus Power Isolation transformers. APC Symmetra PX (never know when the fission reactor might cut out). Tesla Powergrid commercial power backup site. HVAC system. Perforated Metal Ceiling with Fiber Optic "Stars". Top of the range / antique popcorn Machine & candy display. Vilencia heated/cooled rowed seating. Start misleading echo chamber KZbin channel called "budgetsounddude". Call everyone a flat earther who doesn't appreciate how epic all my "cheap" equipment is. Go on about getting value, the market, general retail knowledge about profit margins etc, then proceed to make logical fallacies in support of the exact same sort of thing in the form of power cables whilst at the same time shitting on integrated amplifiers. = PROFIT ??

[@benkrake3678]

I’m saving up for the Peachtree Audio Nova 150, and this amplifier has the ability to change the phono input stage to a normal fixed line input if you wish to use your own phono stage. It has a really good DAC that’s capable of double DSD. The Nova 150 has a generous power output of 150 watts into 8 ohms and 250 watts into 4 ohms of class D power, and has a S/N ratio of 110dB. This amplifier does have variable pre outs as well as a fixed loop designed for room correction, which I’ll be using for my cassette decks. I don’t have the room for separates, but I can see what you’re saying though.

[@JohnSvazic]

Thanks for this. I stumbled across yoru channel as I was starting to get into the hobby, and this video speaks to me. I got roasted on Reddit for wanting to go with individual components for my first setup, but I disagree. All these points make sense to me, so I'm confident I went on the right track. Also spening $500 for an individual component setup sure as hell beats the $1,200-$1,700 integrated amps others were suggesting. Not today buddy, I'm sticking wiht my first stab at a setup. For reference: - AT-LP60X - Fosi P3 pre-amp - Wiim Pro Plus - Switch (for the P3 and the Pro Plus) - Fosi v3 - Kanto YU P6 I'm looking forward to the setup and start listening to all the things! Thanks for the content!

[@damayor62]

You're preaching to the choir here Randy. The only integrated amps I have are my two AVRs. All my serious music systems are Adcom, Emotiva & XTZ components.Thank you and keep up the great work.

[@edholmwood]

Heresy! You contrarian! Where are the touches and pitch forks? Great stuff.

[@bdog99049]

Hey Randy, great video, I appreciate you vouching for separates. In case you're not aware, I wanted to tell you about Audiolab's current integrated amps. They have a cool feature where you can change the mode from serving as an integrated to strictly serving as a pre-amp or power amp. This allowed me to upgrade it from serving as an integrated to becoming a pre-amp with a Modi dac and Emotiva power amp.

[@ziqfriq]

That trick has actually been around a long time. My second integrated amp was a Kenwood KA2002. When I upgraded to a Harmon Kardon Citation 12 power amp I found the Kenwood didn't put out enough voltage to drive it comfortably. But that was then. Built a Dynakit pre and never looked back.

[@eddihaskell]

I have the Audiolab 6000 CD Transport and it sounds amazing with my old classical CD collection. For a DAC, I am using my 25 year old MSB DAC (with a full Nelson upgrade) with a separate power supply) -- it sounds incredibly well detailed. What I cannot figure out as an IT guy is how a 25 year old DAC can sound better than a new one. MSB does have incredibly expensive DACS right now, and it is the construction of the devices which must be making a difference. If you need a DAC consider purchasing a used MSB Link DAC with the matching power supply, they can be had a very good price.

[@rhorto01]

Well,it depends. I got a Schiit Ragnorak 2 (the just an amp version without a DAC or phono stage.) I spend half the year listening to the Raggy, and then the other half of the year I use it as a pre-amp with a Decware tube amp. Fun. And, the main reason I went that route is ease of use, space saving, etc. AND there is plenty of options to upgrade the digital front end or analog front end.

[@trudimcleod5042]

The issue of separates was important for me because I wanted an equalizer in the setup. These days integrated amps have no tape loops and as Randy explained, few have pre-outs. There are very few affordable pre-amps from Schiit, NAD, Emotiva and maybe even Benchmark Labs (that one is around $2500). Thus I went with the Freya+ that has quite a few features for a low price. Integrated amps made sense back in the 1970s and 80s when people had a plethora of sources (vinyl, CDs, cassettes, reel-to-reel) and it made sense to have a single unit with multiple loops. Most of them were also receivers since FM radio was still big.

[@TheSixsixsick]

Agree. Another solid reason I like separates kind of relates to why you like bookshelves as opposed to tower speakers . Space, that take up a fraction of the space . I don’t want to buy a massive piece of furniture to display some big bulky stereo.

[@markcarrington8565]

Hey Randy, entertaining as always. I’m with you on the dedicated boxes route to best quality and the most I would ever want to see in a single box is the pre and power amp. Having said that, one of the cheapest ways to get into quality vinyl playback is with a vintage NAD integrated amp with built in phono stage. Just to add a little reality in your cost comparisons, if a manufacturer chooses to sell direct, they don’t charge half the price of a dealer sold box. They may not have a dealer margin to pay but they do have a direct sales operation with shipping, free trials, returns etc to fund. Best case, they’re probably saving the consumer about fifteen percent. More to the point, unless you’re prepared to buy five amplifiers with a view to shipping four of them back, you’re never sure you picked the best one for your system.

[@Stan_the_Belgian]

Very correct point, a webshop also has costs

[@davidwho7847]

I started my audiophile journey back in the 70's with a Marantz 2245 + JBL speakers + Dual turntable. I soon graduated to separates and quickly learned the costly lesson that all pre-amps are not created equal. LOL. I totally agree with you about separates, but I have returned to integrated for simplicity's sake (TA1). Also, I bought a power conditioner purely for device protection from dirty power/spikes ($300+). I was completely surprised when I plugged my WiiM Mini and J2 DAC into it and turned them on. The sound improvement was very noticeable and totally unexpected but thoroughly loved. I guess this would be in the neighborhood of your power cord statements. Keep up the good work Randy, your videos are very much appreciated.

[@brianodonnell3740]

I kind of fell into this hobby. I was talking to a friend about wanting to get into hifi - with NO knowledge of it. He connected me with a friend of his that gave me an incredible deal on a Yamaha CR2040. I LOVE that machine, but I have to admit, I am VERY separates curious. I have a BlueSound Node, and just upgraded my speakers to Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary’s. I’m now exploring my DAC options. I think I’ll always have the CR2040, but I think I’m going to begin building a second system of all separates.

[@squallywally]

I think a traditional margin is around 33.3%. Very few retail items are keystone (100%)

[@piperdude1605]

Just bought a Luxman L-550AXII yesterday. I think it'll be just fine.

[@funkyfurballs1078]

You can't go wrong with any Luxman or McIntosh integrated...

[@chelovekrazumni9960]

​@@funkyfurballs1078luxman made some cheap, mass produced, Denon level garbage in 1990s.

[@SteveWille]

I agree with separates, but to me the story is more nuanced. There are two kinds of preamps that can be included in a integrated amp: passive and active. For integrated amps with active preamplification, Randy’s points track. If the provided preamp stage is passive, there is little downside to this kind of integrated amp; it is essentially a power amp with a volume control and perhaps input switching. This sort of integrated amp allows the possibility of a very simple, sort signal path, especially with DAC sources that often already have adequate gain. Shorter signal paths can provide better fidelity per dollar as they can be implemented with a few high quality (and cost) components. These advantages can also be had using a strictly power amp and a separate passive preamp (basically a volume pot in a box).

[@lasagnathan69420]

Thank you for this comment! I'm new to the idea of considering separates as I look to upgrade my essentially cobbled-together system, and I wasn't at all aware of the differences between passive and active preamps, or the existence of separate passive preamps. This gives me a bit more direction in my research, and changes the calculus a bit on what I was planning. Greatly appreciated!

[@SteveWille]

@@lasagnathan69420 I have had no experience with these, but Schiit makes several separate preamps that can work in either passive or active mode at the flip of a switch. Perhaps others make them, too. Good luck with your upgrades.

[@AT-wl9yq]

I have no problem with passive preamps or integrates with a passive line stages. However, one thing you need to be aware of, is there aren't too many of them out there.

[@rogermiller2159]

I can hear if I am using wire from the 70s. You probably think that’s obvious but I can only discover it by changing to new wires. (I never know how I’ve treated my car until I change the oil). I was a sound technician around 15 years. (By the way I agree with everything you are saying along with a caveat). You would be surprised what you can get away with unless they are listening for it. A quote from beyond my recollection. “You won’t hear it if you aren’t listening for it”. That’s what sound professionals learn in training. I just discovered your channel today. I like it.

[@jewelbell5]

I've had a parasound halo A21 paired with an Atoll Pr300 preamp for the last 7-8 years, I think. I love this pairing and didn't really expect to better them. Then I came across a Luxman 505uxII on audiomart for just $1600. I had been wanting to try a luxman, so I grabbed it. I must say, I never really knew what layered soundstage was till I hooked up that luxman. My dali helicons sound even better, and that was already fantastic. I will keep my separates, but move them to my 2nd system. Just to say, some integrated really are amazing and compare quite well with separates. Love your channel, btw.

[@joelcarson4602]

This is why Schiit needs to make an Audio Toaster, multiple analog I/O selector to make separates and integrated amps better.

[@keithlisam]

Thoughts on an Emotiva XPA-2 gen3 and a Bluesound node?

[@marcusbrsp]

I agree, separates are preferred. And of course cables make a difference. Probably less so than a power filter and linear power supplies for all your separates, but they definitely make a difference. Otherwise I would not have spent 800 bucks in total on my cables.

[@robertgruber982]

Agree with you in theory but recently bought a Denon PMA 1700NE because, my wife wanted to be able to use our stereo without asking which switch to turn on or leaving the tube pre amp on by accident or god forbid turning it off before the auto on on the power amp switched itself off causing a loud pop. As far as compromises go, the Denon is pretty nice. You don't have to use the built in DAC (I don't) or Phono pre (I do) but they are nice to have.

[@JohnWilliams-wz5bf]

The only piece of equipment I have is a 100 watt per channel Onkyo receiver hooked up to 4 high quality speakers. I think 😅 13:18 you would have to spend a lot of money to a high quality amp and pre-amp and personally, since I’m from the old school ( 75 years old) I still love my radio, and receivers are still perfect for me. Am I truly missing everything,or am I still good-to go?

[@ghn01]

Thanks

[@stevenj2380]

Dang, some high-end. audiophile stuff noted in video. The video is applicable today with great buys on good, compact separates easily available. Edit Nov. 2023 My system is half-vintage overall, and strictly last old school type. I am staying with my 1988 ish NAD 100w(?) integrated I got in thrift store in 200x. Necessary refurb now will be $1100. It has all the features, 4 line in, MM/MC phone in and 2 tape loops and power I want for a small apt. DAC and any streaming in a modern integrated are not needed.

[@bencollins8382]

As mentioned, a traditional analog integrated amplifier with pre-outs and no built in DAC or streamer offers abundant upgrade paths. I've owned a NAD C 326BEE for over ten years. It has pre-outs & two sub outs. I've added different DAC's and power amps when I see fit. Don't think I'll ever get rid of it.

[@rreiss60]

My amp too. Do you have a phono stage? My phono stage is a Schiit Mani. I also use a DAC Magic 200m and BlueOs streamer.

[@oscarpina1038]

I have that one. Pretty good. Also, i have ordered de 3050 le. Any thoughts?

[@rayk6049]

I wish I’d landed here sooner. My journey was vintage receivers to vintage integrated, none of which had the sound or reliability I was seeking. Now with a Bryston amplifier, separate preamp and separate phono stage I’ve arrived at the sound I was chasing since getting back into this hobby.

[@xsamitt]

I am using Brysting separates as well!

[@e7tegt503]

You’ve inspired me to build a new system with separates. My old 2.1 integrated amp system will go downstairs. Thank you!

[@lsaideOK]

There are many integrated amps that are just preamp and amp. Some will allow you to add a DAC or a phono preamp or streamer a la carte. Denon and Marantz both make integrated amps and Yamaha has an extensive line. Including the s801 which for under $1,000 delivers quite a lot. Especially if you're going to be using Sony CS5s or lower line elacs or Polk's, going separate is not needed unless you do plan to upgrade speakers at some point

[@trudimcleod5042]

I agree. Even Schiit has an integrated named the Ragnarok 2 for around $1500. The phono preamp and the USB dac are accessories on this one....and it does have preouts and headphone amp to booth!

[@crashhypermonkey]

Sure wish I subscribed sooner! All my future audio decisions will be better Thank You!!

[@keithmoriyama5421]

I guess if you play this game long enough you eventually start saying stupid things... RIP Randy. For the record, I have three ultra high end systems (bi-amped and tri-amped) XLR dual differential balanced, in dedicated rooms, composed solely of separates and one that is an integrated-- Accuphase. Sonically there is no appreciable difference between integrated and separates if the build quality is high enough. I LOVE integrated amps.

[@bryanhenderson8730]

Hi Randy. I want to record music on my reel to reel. I was looking at the Yamaha R-N2000a integrated streamer amp. It’s my favorite choice but I have not purchased yet. It does not have a line out. Bummer. Can I record from the headphones jack out? 3mm jack split into rca cables to my reel to reel? Or the pre amp out to my reel to reel? Also, I was thinking of pairing this with the keg 13:18 Ls50 meta speakers. I have seen your reviews and I understand those speakers are not your favorite However, my question is more about the compatibility of that amp and speaker set combo So I guess a two-part question Anyhow , enjoy your Folgers and I hope to hear from you soon Keep making great videos, man thank you !

[@yuriz7364]

You are totally right! If you are an audiophile, then you already know separates work best. What company is going to give you a discreet path from a class-A balanced dac to a class-A balanced preamp to a class-A amp? Not to mention the wonderful cables to play with in-between... I feel most integrated amps are for a different kind of person. Not an audiophile person, just a listener on a budget that doesn't care about all the instruments gabled together. Just my observation...

[@jeffwhitehead6268]

Have decided to divorce my music from my Denon surround receiver. Thru all the CAM vids I have easily decided upon all the separates I would like. Except for the pre amp. List so far is: Parasound P6, Emotiva PT2, Musical Fidelity M6S, PS Audio Stellar GainCell, Marantz NR1200 as Pre, Acoustic Invader, Reisong Q6, or Schiit Freya+. While low pass filter and balanced outs would be nice, sound will decide. Any I should add to my list to trial? Hopefully I can hear many at Axpona?

[@stumied1588]

I'm confused - how does the first argument on costs not also apply to separates? If a DAC retails for 500, wouldn't that 'actually' be a 250-worth DAC? (following the 2000-1000 logic for the integrated)

[@mikecelent2015]

The integrated amp move started in the 90s.....at first, they were praised as they could save money and space...as long as you weren't as concerned with upgrades. The Arcam A -6, Creek 4330r, and Bryston B-60R were great, reliable products, and reasonable ( in context, I guess..especially the Bryston product).

[@rodirish7787]

Bryston is one of the better deals on the used market the 4bst is a great amp has a 20 year warranty never listened to the b-60r

[@mikecelent2015]

@@rodirish7787 definitely..bought their B17 in 2020..love their 20 year warranty..although, at my age, I'm not sure that I have that kind of warranty!

[@MagicMaus29]

I hear what you're saying and you have a point… HOWEVER… there are counterpoints to consider as well. One of the biggest cost factors in a device is the case. Anyone who has ever DIYed something knows this. Swapping out one single device for 4 or 5 separate devices also means, that some of the money invested will go into the cases. The same applies to the multiple power supply units. Then there are the connection cables. Even if you don't get 'esoteric' here, but still want decent quality, this will not insignificantly increase the overall price of your system. Not to mention that this produces multiple points of contact resistance, that are not present on a circuit board in an integrated amplifier. So… all I'm saying is, there is always another side from which you have to look at the matter, in order to be able to get the overall picture.

[@raulgarcia1718]

This sounds like a topic for a follow up video.

[@davidjudd951]

I've had both, and in all seriousness, at least to me, the difference is minimal. I never pay full price for anything. If I see or hear what I like and really want it, I wait a couple of years for the price to drop as the replacement models come in. As long as it's not feature starved, I just don't worry about the "Future proof" thing.

[@starker1971]

Everything I see in the market suggests if you want to do home theater AND you want a separate pre-amp. You can expect to add at least an extra 1000 to the cost of the solution. It might make sense to stay integrated for the home theater, then go 2-channel with the deluxe non-integrated solution. I am not sure I am ready for champagene audio yet.

[@DavidBurns-sq4kd]

Rotel integrated amps are a great for having pre-outs and even pre-amp inputs. Use the power amp section or just the pre-amp or both. So versatile.Yamaha for example don’t give you pre-outs for most budget models,they want you to buy a higher spec model. Pre-outs can be a very useful.

[@switawivr6]

I'm fully onboard, Randy. The preamp and amp I bought in the early 90s might need a refresh but they have solidly outlived multiple source format and speaker changes. So flexible and upgradeable on their simplicity that the only thing lack is remote control. And there's even some workarounds there (remote volume adjustment) with streaming options. Saying that, I believe the Integrated Amp market will continue to grow because of the technology climate we live in now and where we're going in the future. Hobbyists like ourselves will never go away but the masses strive for increased conveniences and all-in-one solutions atop a belief that personal electronics somehow have a 'generational lifespan'. The masses will be even more happy to buy new equipment with every new format or streaming method than you or I. Ironic considering how much we love this schiit.

[@jryanakl1]

I really appreciate that you did a video on this, especially the breakdown and the clarity with which you explain everything.

[@richardbas2948]

I might be hopeless old fashioned, but I own a PIONEER VSA 740 and I never used the power-amp inside! I use this as a pre-amp! Why? Because of all the connections I can make! DAT, 2x SVHS(both in use for DVD), LASERDISC, CD, TAPE1(for cass.deck), TAPE2(for REEL-REELdeck) TUNER, EQUAL., TV-monitor(in use for Beamer), TV-tuner(for SAT. dish), PHONO! But all my loudspeakers are Mfb-speakers (with build in power-amp. (two front L+R, two center, two rear L+R, and one SUB-woofer! It sounds absolutely magnificent!

[@CinemaDemocratica]

The knock against Integrated amplifiers -- that they thwart modularized upgrade paths -- is rather undercut by the fact that very often the same people will say you deserved your bad experience with separates because you didn't match them. I owned a Parasound Halo A23 and P3, connected by a 12v trigger, in 2010. They sounded nice an'all, but they were an integrated amp that just happened to come in two boxes, **and** they were more expensive than a similar-quality integrated.

[@Simon_Hawkshaw]

Always controversial but honest. That's why we watch and support you. Integrated are limiting, and if one facet fails, it may lead to the whole unit being my next boat anchor. Thank you as always.

[@archiemacdonald553]

I agree agree randy .I went to separates about 30 years ago I was sick of changing integrated amps .so yes definitely the way to go .love your channel and your sense of humour .Greetings from Scotland 🙂

[@jespermaintz8993]

I think it's worth mentioning, that a lot of DACs have a volume control, so you can skip the pre-amp expenses altogether. And, with prices compared, it will basically net you a better DAC.

[@christopherwright8179]

In most cases it will sound better to go from the DAC and into a Preamplifier. Yes, I know that it doesn’t make sense, but it’s been widely reported by many audiophiles. I tried this out at a dealer a couple of weeks ago and found that having a preamp in the chain opened up the soundstage and the overall sound was more engaging. It’s worth trying for yourself as the effect will change with different components. The Auralic Vega G2.1 straight into a stereo power amp did sound amazing, but adding a preamp took things to a higher level.

[@TonyCottrell-iv2qv]

Same thing is true of some phonostages, so you can have a vinyl only system with no preamp. Matter of opinion whether preamp improves sound though.

[@bouazzamajdoubi7974]

I just want to listening to the music only how's the best for that is it the av receiver or the integrated amp

[@ronfremont4435]

Great information always. THANK YOU! I am debating between the Cambridge axa35 versus Loxjie A40. While there is a price difference, which do you think will deliver the best dependability? Thank you!

[@michaelduffee6402]

I have good luck buying on the second hand market. I found an Anthem Integrated 225 for $400 and a Topping D70s DAC for $300. Both in new condition. It's a really solid rig for $700. I also have a variety of "vintage" Adcom gear, amps and pre-amps that I cycle through. That stuff is relatively inexpensive and there's a lot of clean, low hours pieces available if you are patient.

[@ericgeyer2034]

I agree! If you get the audio bug, being able to tweak the components down to the cables instead of having to flip a big, expensive box every time you get the itch is not only more cost effective, it's more fun.

[@shanedaiken2831]

Just use the rec out if you need a pre amp signal. Good way to overcome no pre out. Like your videos...YAMAHA rules! I did this with my Yamaha RV703 to an eq with a master output then to my Yamaha P2100.

[@Feliciano12v]

Interesting points. I have an Outlaw RR2160MKII that I enjoyed for sometime. Then I got the Ares II DAC and Wiim mini and enjoy it’s performance and ease of use. I want to upgrade/ go separates eventually.

[@robertwoodward9231]

You are right about the power cable. If you tested the one that goes with your amp, there is much noise.

[@garganega]

The problem with separate DACs is they do not offer enough channels. Are we then supposed to buy two? Also they have no digital out. My Onkyo P3000R preamp has two each toslink/coax in, an RJ45, and a toslink out using twin Burr Brown chips from 2015.

[@francescotenti193]

It can easily get out of control looking for that elusive sound and quite expensive too. The setup in my modest vinyl corner is very simple: an SX 780, a Technics SL-D2 with an Ortofon 2 Blue, a Ifi Zen phono stage, a "recycled" Panasonic DVD player as CD with a Schiit DAC and RP 600 M's. Sounds and looks good, of course I can do better but you always can, just like chasing a ghost. As someone said way before me "love the one you're with", "parole sante"!

[@Brian_Romska]

Ya I’ve bought a couple integrated amps and I’m either not using them at all or I’m just using the actual amp portion with an external dac or preamp anyways… one of those is a ps audio sprout, ya it’s kinda cool but man, the components I could have bought with that $700, oh well, I’m sure nobody here has ever bought a bunch of crap that they regret right? All that, along with the extra markups on most equipment, definitely means most people would be better off with some cheap separates until they find a good upgrade path, good stuff as usual Randy, thanks again!!!

[@agarber1932]

I just purchased an integrated Bryston Bi-200 integrated amp. IT IS FANTASTIC!!!!

[@eddieruddock7014]

Would anyone kindly give their suggestions or recommendations as to where I should upgrade first? And to what? Setup so far; Wiim Mini (Optical out) Onkyo TX-NR609 (7.2 AVR) (Internal DAC is a TI Burr-Brown 192 kHz/24-Bit) Speakers I use for music Monitor Audio S8 (1ST gen) Kef Q1 I also have 5.1 Monitor audio BR range in with the BR6 as the towers just collecting dust in the spare room as the BR6 were soooo boomy in my living room (Moving house in a week so I want to try them out at the new place before I sell) To be honest using the Wiim, Onkyo and S8's I'm kind of happy but that's because I don't know what I'm missing. Where do I go next? Geshelli J2? With my limited knowledge I'm shooting in the dark. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻

[@gregbailer8701]

All aboard...starting to ride the "separates" train. Looking at Emotiva PT2 vs Schiit Freya S. Should I care about the variable sub out and High Pass that comes with the PT2? My powered sub already has variable crossover cutoff and phase control? Also, I really like the balanced in/out of the Frya S because my DAC has XLR out. Thoughts?

[@johnpereira6934]

There is something to be said about an elegant and visually appealing one box solution. I like Bluesound's Powernode and the cheaper version for their small elegant one box solution that also supports eARC. These units are smaller than traditional integrated amps and easier to incorporate into a living space. My requirements is a either an all-in-one solution with HDMI or something like the streaming integrated amp from SVS because I can always add a hockey sized puck Wiim to it and not have to deal with DTS Play-Fi. I guess in this regard I'm more like an Mac fanboy vs a PC fanboy. At a certain price point integrated solutions are cheaper than separates and offer better sound quality. One chassis, less duplication of parts and cabling, etc. I just wish that in addition to HDMI more of these products offered some form of room correction as not everyone is able to use room treatments for whatever reason.

[@nicholasfox6198]

I have a Powernode hidden in a cabinet that runs my bedroom/TV audio. And the better-than-Sonos distributed audio is great as well!

[@johnpereira6934]

@@nicholasfox6198 Years ago I have a Plex speaker and was disappointed in it's sound quality and the flakiness of the signal it was receiving. Switched to a Sonos system and was surprised by how much better the Sonos One sounded. And I believe Sonos sort of uses its own network for communicating. Much less problems than Bluesound. I think Bluesound has done something similar now, but I'm not sure. What I like about the Bluesound home theatre setup is that you can bring your own subwoofer if you wish and not be stuck. However, Bluesound needs some type of room correction software. Also, I'm hesitant regarding the quality of sound from the Bluesound speakers as I was not impressed by the Plex.

[@billywindsock9597]

Here in the UK, there are many good integrated amps to choose from. Most have pre and power, somtimes with a pre out, but not many have a built in dac. Anything sold through a dealer has mark up, not just the integrated amps. At less than £1000 there are Arcam, Audiolab, Bluesound, Leak, Marantz. NAD, Pro-Ject, Rega, Roksan and Rotel. Most of these have a couple of models at this price. The Rega IO and Brio are excellent, well made, robust and most of all, great sounding units. The Adiolab 6000A is great as well. I get the point of wanting to choose all the bits, I just think that a pre and power amp in a single box is a good solution. If you want to splash the cash, you can get yourself a Burmester 032 for just over £15k. That will do the job nicely!

[@JukeboxAlley]

This about sums it up, for convenience go receiver/integrated on a simpler setup and it'll be just fine, but if you like trying different flavors of amps and extra tuning options also added gain and filtering, more flexibility and fun if you like to change things out a lot, then that system for critical listening and interchanging components etc. then separates will pretty well always win that case.

[@damirhlobik6488]

I'm interested in your opinion on the Philips DFA 1000 (aka Marantz PM 95)

[@PabloMartinez-nx2cv]

My set up consists of Denon X4800H, B&W 704S3, B&W Center Channel HTM72S3 and JL Audio Sub D110 & Athena AS-R1.2 Bipole Surrounds. I would like to improve the musical performance of my system or at least the LR speakers. I was told adding an integrated amp with Home Theater bypass would be the best way to improve the music performance. What would you recommend I do?

[@lordrbray123]

LOL, too late. Bought the Pioneer VSX-LX305 mid last year. Frankly, I've been thrilled with it. Dirac is a great add-on to have at your disposal and the sound is really good paired with the Klipsch RP-8000F's. My wife gets annoyed now because when our adult children come over to visit there is invariably an hour plus listening session where they just want to go into my listening room rather than hang out downstairs talking, LOL. Plus, the convenience is impossible to beat since my listening room is also the movie room and HDMI CEC control makes it possible for my wife to be able to use everything. :)

[@lordrbray123]

@Cheapaudioman_____ you already tried to scan me before

[@lordrbray123]

@Cheapaudioman_____ scammer

[@sayheykid8431]

Thanks!

[@cheapaudioman]

thank you so much for supporting the channel

[@ricardoalmeida2069]

Hi Randy, as always great show. Although everything always depends on what you want, your logic has a true foundation. Separate parts allow you more freedom to "move" and if for some reason you do "wrong", it is better to go a little wrong than a lot. Now I ask you for advice. A few months ago I bought a Q Acoustic (3020i) I love them. I am using them with a Fosy Audio BT30A that I already had but although it sounds good but I would like something more "fancy". I have been recommended a Rega Brio + a DAC. The question is which one, is it worth the change? Thank you.

[@mktplyr76]

Any love for Outlaw Audio? I love my RR2150 and it does have pre-amp outs!

[@briandill1133]

I agree with you when it comes to a "cheap" integrated, largely because they are not expandable. However, an expandable integrated can be a nice way to get into the low/mid higher end if you don't want to start out in the used market. I started with an MC 6700 because it is expandable and I thought (and still believe) the heart of the 6700 (the amp) was rock solid. My perspective was I not only got a great amp at 200 watts per channel, which could drive 2, 4, or 8 ohm loads, but I "instantly" got a complete system, which I could upgrade over time. Ten years into my journey with the 6700 it is still going strong, but it is now a dedicated amp.

[@kddk8584]

What separates do you recommend for an amp? Newbie here. Thanks!

[@harrychristo]

Hi there Randy, and thank you for all your great videos and content. I need your help/advice please....if you can please help? I built a pair of Jeff Bagby Kairo 2-way bookshelves and then I also bought the add on Bass woofer kit (all from Meniscus audio) back in 2020. They have since closed down. I am also in Melbourne Australia. I have been running these speakers from an Emotiva XPA-200 2-channel power amp and a Yamaha WXC-50 MusicCast Streaming Pre-Amplifier to stream my music in a 2nd music listening room. I have recently bought 2 x Fosi audio class D, ZA3 amps, which I am wanting to run in mono mode to power the Kairo 2-way's with (the top bookshelf speakers). And then I want to use the Emotiva XPA-200 to power the 2 bass cabinets (which are passive and are the 3-way part of the 3-way speaker set up) so that the subs have independant power. So essentially 2 mono blocks running each Kairo 2-way bookshelf and then the 2 channel power amp to run the bottom bass cabinets. But I'm not sure how I'm supposed to connect this up. Currently, the 2 RCA outputs run from the Yamaha streamer DAC from the Aux out into each channel of the Enotiva XPA-200. How do now get the RCA signal from the emotiva (which I want to run the bass cabinets (bottom speakers of the 3-way Kairo set up)), and also into the Fosi Audio inputs to run the 2-way bookshelf top half of the speakers? Do I need a Y splitter to split the signal coming from the streamer, and if so, is this the only way and if it is the only way, do I reduce the quality of the signal by doing this? Also, the way that Jeff Bagby designed his 2-way Kairos, with the add on bass cabinets, is that he has 2 terminals in the top bookshelf, 2 terminals in the top of the bass cabinets (so you can connect from the 2-way Kairo bookshelf to the bass cabinet), and then another set of terminals that run from the bottom of the bass cabinets into the power amp speaker terminals. Inside the bass cabinets are the crossovers that when the top bookshelf 2-way speaker connects to the bass cabinet, it then knows to reduce certain lower frequencies from the bookshelves and to reduce the higher frequencies to the bass cabinets below the 2-way Kairos sitting on top. So theres another part to my question - If I am to run the speaker cables directly from the 2-way into a power amp (or 2 fosi audio ZA3 mono's), and then run the bass cabinets into the Emotiva XPS-200 2 channel power amp, even if I DID split the RCA signal, the 2-way Kairos, would be running full rnage and not reducing the bass in the mid driver because they won't be connected to the bass cabinets with the crossover that determines the frequencies to send to each speaker. Oh also, I'm looking at upgrading my Yahamah streamer to one with XLR outputs as both my Emotiva XPA-200 and the Fosi Audio ZA3's have XLR ins. I am in the marlet for a new DAC/Streamer and I can't really afford a Eversolo A6 but any suggestions would be great also. I hope all of this make sense. Please help? Any suggestions? Any questions, please fire away. Thank you