5 Reasons You May Not Need an Overhead Drum Sander [Flatmaster Review]

[@StoneyMeyerhoeffer]

1:51 This is absolutely untrue. The drive rollers of a planer are over the wood. So when you feed the wood through the planer, the drive rollers crush the workpiece and "preserve" any curve that exists. So you cannot "joint" wood with a planer (without a sled). A drum sander does not suffer from this design flaw. With a typical drum sander the workpiece is carried on the conveyor underneath the head. Nothing is crushing the wood. The worst thing that will happen is that you would take too heavy of a cut and stall the machine or damage the workpiece or both. I do like the Flatmaster, but the one thing it absolutely cannot do that a drum sander can is dead repeatable thicknessing of material. Especially for small parts. I can set the DRO on my Supermax and get a perfectly flat workpiece exactly the thickness I want. With the Flatmaster it's the old caliper dance.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Thank you and you are absolutely correct. I was a wee bit overzealous when making this video and didn't do a proper editing job. I had planned to correct the misinformation in a new video. Alas, there never seems to be enough time in the day to get everything done on a list of to-dos. I thank you for bringing this forward I'll see if I can figure out how to pin this comment to the top for others that watch the video. I also would like to thank you for pointing out how important it is for me to ensure that future videos are correct in order to help others Cheers Paul.

[@StoneyMeyerhoeffer]

2:43 This is why I love the Flatmaster. It sutiably replaces a handplane for so many use cases.

[@leroyrobaldo4004]

Just bought a used 30 inch, I'm a mostly making cutting boards and picture frames. put it together today and flattened two cutting boards, holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm an 80 year old new woodworker and have spent over $10,000 on tools and I think this will be my best investment ($650 shipped).When you get my age you need to have a hoppy to keep your mind working.

[@DustyWorkbench]

That is awesome Leroy! I am happy to hear you are liking it. The other great part is that you can actually use it as a work surface when not in use. I throw a 1/2" birch plywood on top -and Volia! Another working surface when needed. :)

[@leroyrobaldo4004]

@@DustyWorkbench Dusty, yes i'm in love with it. Great idea with topping it with ply and making an other work surface, your great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!'

[@brendaanderson9589]

Where did you get it? All I'm seeing online are 18" and 24". Was wondering if the 30 was still available. Please let me know. Thank you!

[@duperdude25]

I have made an overhead box with a slit for my 22-44 Jet oscillating sander so it will work like the flat master. So you can have both in one tool. I saw it on one of the woodworks channels, he did it to his Laguna drum 19-38 sander.

[@DustyWorkbench]

That is a great idea. You have the best of both types of sanders. I know Stumpy Nubs made his own a few years back similar to your setup

[@paulappelquist3491]

I thought of a 6th reason: in my limited space, it can double as a work bench; Just use a plywood top with a rim to hold it in place.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Absolutely. I now have a nice 1/2" plywood I place on top when needed. Sometimes I am too much in a hurry and just work on top of it without the plywood. Don't recommend as I now have to clean up some glue and stain from the flatmaster surface.

[@timconnell4570]

Basically a sander thats a jointer! Great for end grain chopping boards. Thnx for posting its given me some thoughts as i am heading down the drum sander path. 😁

[@DustyWorkbench]

That is exactly what it is. If you build your own, you could make the infeed and outfeed longer to provide additional support. Even though it could be used as a jointer, we still bought a standard bladed jointer as the Flatmaster is not the most efficient for speed to joint edges. We love using it for wider surfaces that need to be sanded, it saves a lot of time. It would be nice to have a standard overhead drum sander as well so that you can use the Flatmaster to flatten one side then use the overhead drum to flatten and ensure parallel surfaces.

[@jasonevans9649]

It seems like an overhead drum sander might be a better option for end grain boards. The one thing I can think of that an overhead does better is it makes the faces parallel to each other, as opposed to a jointer type sander that will make the faces angled and not parallel

[@stevem268]

i built one using the kit from stockroom supply, great machine. i used a 1 hp motor with a reversing switch os i can run it either way

[@DustyWorkbench]

Sounds great!

[@jasonevans9649]

Great video, thanks for the info. I can see one weakness though. You mentioned you can do both faces of the board, but if you do that the faces will not be parallel to each other, but an overhead drum sander makes the faces parallel to each other. It seems this is especially true when making end grain cutting boards. I could be wrong though.

[@DustyWorkbench]

You are absolutely correct! I need to update/correct that information. It does work like a jointer, so if you need to have parallel faces and are not careful you can end up with a wedge. There is a way to use it as an overhead drum sander/planer to do the opposite side but I'm not a fan of the suggestion provided by the makers of this kit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3nGomqhg6Z_qrs I'm hoping to figure out another easier option or jig that would work. Need to get a few other custom order projects out of the way first ;)

[@mybike1988]

Omg this is a game changer for my projects how have I not known about this such a production saver!!!! THANK YOU SOOO MUCH🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@DustyWorkbench]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jesper1406]

I need to sand a lot of boards up to 1 meter wide. I've been looking at building a 50 cm open end drumsander, to take it in two runs. I think this solution is much more simple, and will fulfill my needs..

[@DustyWorkbench]

This unit might be the answer. I haven't checked in awhile but they may no longer offer the 30" drum. You'll definitely want to make a large enough table (side and outfeed) to handle the size of boards you want to sand. If you are making your own with their drum kits you could make it both a flatmaster style and overhead type. Stumpynubs stumpynubs.com/product/dual-stage-drum-sander/ has plans for this. Maybe you make it open ended.

[@markbader4942]

Interesting and affordable option. The reason for a lot of us to look at buying a drum sander over a much more affordable thickness planner is how the sander deals with gnarly figured woods. No chunks removed. Also a sander can work on much thinner panels than the planer. The one downside to the Flatmaster that I can see is the downward pressure on the wood is done by hand. Having no experience with it I wonder how consistent the thickness would be when using hand pressure. Regular drum sanders work well for consistent thickness, like when you want to edge join book matched panels. I guess with the Flatmaster you could join them first and flatten them after.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hi Mark, using the flatmaster is surprisingly easy...even I can manage to use it ;) I wouldn't start by using it on an expensive piece at first but once you get comfortable you can move on to more important pieces with full confidence. It can get a little tricky with longer pieces over four feet due to the short infeed and outfeed but the table can be adapted to individual needs. We do have the fence attachment with flexible wheels that can help keep even pressure, all you have to do is push it but we just don't need it for our applications. Using the fence would also help to prep your wood for joining if you don't have a jointer. It will take more passes compared to a jointer but in a pinch the flatmaster will work, again nice not having to worry about limited height of your piece.

[@thisoldman7142]

Great video. I am collecting parts to make a thickness sander. After watching this video and one by stumpy nubs I’ve decided to make it so I can use both the top and bottom of the drum. (Wish me luck) The more I think about it, (and after watching your video) I’m guessing I’ll be using the top more than the bottom. Thanks for taking the time make this.

[@DustyWorkbench]

I remember seeing Stumpy Nubs making one with available plas if I remember correctly. I too was thinking of going in that direction but we needed something practically ready to go of the box. It still needed assembly but it only took about an hour to assemble. We love it! It perfect for our first sanding pass at 80 grit to clean up any planer snipe and gives the pine wood a nice flat velvet finish. We find that the following orbital sanding goes much faster. Thanks for watching. Comments like yours really inspires us to make more videos. Cheers

[@thisoldman7142]

@@DustyWorkbench well, I’ve changed my mind once again. After 3 day’s of thought I’m dropping the thickness sander, and going with just the “flat master” style drum sander. I all ready have a thickness planner so….what’s the point? I’m going one step further by making an 8” vertical belt sander and attaching to front of the box. I should be able make the table tilt From 90* to 45* like the commercial built disc sanders. I’ve purchased an 8” x 19” floor sanding belt, ( they come in several grits). If all goes as planned I’ll have an edge sander that has a full 8” of sanding surface instead of a disc that can only be use on the “down” side of the circle.

[@les6516]

Great video. I didnt know these machines were available. For tapered table legs etc its a must have machine. I am trying to find one in the UK. Thank you Dusty.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Oh yes, this type of sander is perfect for cleaning up tapered pieces.

[@JOATology]

Great tool video man. I have been researching building a drum sander and ran into your video. This seems like more the tool I should be looking at, and I had never even heard of it before. I really appreciate all the great info! Thanks!

[@DustyWorkbench]

Glad I could help. We love it for doing our initial sanding of pieces for furniture we make. We still use our random orbital sander for the finishing part.

[@gym_bob]

I sand thin veneers of high end lumber. I am not sure that would work for me but thankyou for showing me this option!

[@DustyWorkbench]

Agree, it would be difficult to sand thin veneer unless can you adhere it to a something thicker / solid. Thanks for checking it out.

[@gym_bob]

@@DustyWorkbench I had never seen anything like what you have and if I didn't have to sand wood so thin, I would probably buy one in a heartbeat.Thankyou for sharing.....

[@tomrodriguez9052]

It's like having a jointer with no planer. It's a useful tool on its own but can't replace a traditional drum sander for surfacing veneers and keeping faces parallel.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Yes pretty much the same as a jointer the way that this one is built. You can buy the cylinder kit on its own and make it so that you can use it also similar as a planer but didn't see the need for it for the type of work we do. Stumpy Nubs built one a few years back --> kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZjUeoGaf8Zsjdk

[@johnmoyer2255]

Thanks for the video, I didn't know a machine like this existed. I like it 👌

[@DustyWorkbench]

Glad you liked it!

[@jerryjmcconnell]

feed the beast

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hehehe! That we do 😀 Thank you for watching our video on "5 Reasons You May Not Need an Overhead Drum Sander [Flatmaster Review]"! We appreciate your feedback and support. If you found the content helpful or have any questions, feel free to let us know. Keep feeding your passion for woodworking and creating!

[@johnhubbard6262]

Did not know this even existed, and was just deciding between two +2500 drum sanders. They are no longer showing a 30" option though, so waiting until they get back from the holidays to inquire. Are you still loving this?

[@DustyWorkbench]

Thanks for discovering the Flatmaster through our video, and it's fantastic to see your interest in it! Regarding the 30" option, it's a good idea to wait until after the holidays to inquire. If you happen to get any additional information on its availability, we'd greatly appreciate it if you could keep us posted. It's always helpful to have the most up-to-date details. As for our experience with the Flatmaster, we're still loving it for our specific needs. However, it's worth noting that it may not be the perfect fit for everyone. One thing to keep in mind is that you have to manually push the piece over the drum. It's a hands-on process, so depending on your workflow and preferences, it might be a key consideration. If you have any more questions or need further insights, feel free to ask. Wishing you a wonderful holiday season and successful woodworking ventures! Paul

[@glong2720]

Never had much luck with the Flatmaster. I would not buy again. Stockroom was no help after I tried to discuss the issues. My sander is a grea very large paper weight. It has never worked correctly and I had a man who made his own unable to adjust the thing.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hi there! I appreciate your comment and sorry to hear about your experience with the Flatmaster. It's frustrating when a tool doesn't live up to expectations, especially when support doesn't come through. Have you explored any alternative sanders that might better suit your needs? I'd love to hear more about your journey in finding the right tool for your projects. Keep creating, and feel free to share more about your experiences!

[@andrewrabito9032]

very cool i like and you did mention it would take up les space and im thinking on purchesing and adding to the front of table saw rig as a feed roller if it goes down low enough either way ive sen these before but you have covenced me its better now that i own a drum sander i will be selling mine thanks only wish i seen your vid before thanks

[@DustyWorkbench]

It would cool to see your setup if you do add it as an outfeed for your table saw.

[@clifover]

Have you used this tool on thin wood sheets, as in guitar back and sides, typically 3/16" finished BEFORE final hand thicknessing/scraping/voicing? I believe that with backing as you run it through it just might work.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hi Clifford, The Flatmaster should definitely work for sanding thin wood sheets like guitar backs and sides (around 3/16" finished) because the depth of cut is actually determined by the grit of the sandpaper you use. For example, a 220 grit sandpaper will remove around 2/1000ths of an inch (or .002") of material. Here's a helpful video from StockroomSupply that explains how grit affects sanding depth kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3a9f6GBiM93lZI You can also use the Flatmaster for very delicate projects like scroll saw pieces, as shown in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5S2knxpfMd5d8ksi=wzUVEcXLGRnmRJ8p Even with a backing plate, the Flatmaster should be a good option for achieving a smooth finish on your guitar without gouging the wood. Be sure to keep a consistent speed going over the drum. Happy Sanding Paul

[@bryanproskiw5554]

I too have limited space.

[@DustyWorkbench]

This may be a great option, depending how you will be using it. They no longer sell the 30" cylinder, only the 18" and 24" which makes sense as I think the 30" was a little overkill. ;)

[@thomasmassey8444]

It looks like it could serve as a work area with a top on it, and less bulky than a traditional drum sander...hmmm.

[@DustyWorkbench]

It works well for us, for the type of woodworking we do but may not be for everyone. The option to use it as a workspace was one of the main reasons we went with this sander. I did make a mistake when I said it can work like a planer but I should have said it works like a jointer.

[@haidergildred2621]

Excellent video, thanks! I’ve been debated a large belt sander like Grizzly sales which is very expensive vs getting a drum sander which cost less but still a lot of money. I mad never heard of this sander before so I was intrigued. At this price point I can afford to take a chance and from watching this video seems like a no brainer to do so! Only downside is the lead time of 12 weeks?

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hello there, we're thrilled to hear that the Flatmaster caught your attention, even though you had never heard of it before. The Flatmaster offers an exciting alternative that combines performance and affordability. As you mentioned the price point is hard to beat. We certainly do not regret getting it and love the fact that we can use it as another workstation when not in use.

[@palbergwerx.comcreativedir1338]

Thanks, I just revisited this video again as I was considering purchasing an overhead drum sander. However, overhead drum sanders are notorious for leaving long scratches down entire boards do to individual grit not being of equal height/thickness and drum sanders operating in a linear motion with no oscillation - and this takes a lot of work to remove those deep scratches with a ROS afterwards. I'm curious if there is any benefit in the finish of this sander because of the 'air cushion', or does it produce results much like an overhead drum sander?

[@paulappelquist3491]

I wonder if I would have enough control for the thin laminate used in guitar sides.

[@DustyWorkbench]

You can. I have never tried small or thin pieces, but Ethan from Stockroomsupply.ca made a video on that a while back where he made a jig to make opening narrower and used a fine grit.

[@mikethompson9745]

Im close to buying a drum sander and found your video, how long or what are the steps to change the sand belt and where do yo buy more? also i'm guessing you do not adjust depth of cut? this looks like the right tool for me I need more info on it thanks. I also wondered why there are very few reviews of this product. almost zero. kind of scary to spend a fair amount of dollars on an untested or unreviewed product.

[@DustyWorkbench]

We bought everything from stockroomsupply. We use it almost every day and have only changed the paper once since we bought it, not counting the initial trial explosion. Lol We keep it at 80grit to do the initial sending run then the following grits with an orbital. Works well for what we use it for.

[@jtsands2008]

I was thinking the same thing on the lack of reviews and videos out there. So odd for today's KZbin dominated world. That said, it looks like a great concept and product so I'm very intrigued.

[@krank2kold]

Can i flatten wood rings without damaging my project & fingers?

[@DustyWorkbench]

It's not much good for small projects. You can go with the smallest flatmaster and make a jig. Like the one in this link kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJCTkpWAf9tsmpI

[@CowboyDave1812]

How do you adjust the in-feed and out-feed table heights?

[@DustyWorkbench]

The in-feed and out-feed do not change. You change the depth of "cut" by changing the sandpaper grit. When setting up with new paper, you have the paper just below or equal to the table top. Once you turn it on it will rise just above the table and contact the wood as you pass, so you need to push the wood at a steady rate otherwise you will end up with an indentation. The lower the grit number and the slower you go the more wood will be removed at once but only to the maximum depth that the sandpaper will raise above the table surface by centrifugal force.

[@sixstarauto]

How do you adjust the depth of cut?

[@DustyWorkbench]

The only way to adjust the depth per pass is by changing the sandpaper grit.

[@HowYouCanMakeIt]

how difficult is it to change the sand paper?

[@DustyWorkbench]

Not hard at all. can be changed in 1 to 2 minutes. Here is a great video on how to change -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIu4dWynl8-ipNE

[@rondavis9230]

Interesting. Have you tried it on wider and longer components such as case sides, shelves and tops?

[@DustyWorkbench]

Yes but it can be difficult to manage longer pieces with the short table top that I have. If I had to do longer, wider, or heavier pieces I would make my tabletop much longer, wider, and put on my fence with hold down wheels to keep it all under control.

[@luiferreira4253]

Hello Did you ever flatten slabs on your sander? Like 8’x40”

[@DustyWorkbench]

Not with our setup. If we had a larger workshop I would set it up with a larger table top in order to manage larger slabs. That said, you would want your slab to be fairly flat otherwise it can take quite a few++ passes to get a long slab flattened. We find our table manages best with pieces that 3-4 feet long.

[@dano6941]

I am curious where your motor is positioned. I just purchased a kit and am finding the instructions are beyond terrible. Having built the box from the plans, the belt won't clear the factory top, now I have to redesign the base. The top wasn't the thickness it stated in the plans, and even the holes in the MDF top didn't line up with the metal top.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hi, I bought the whole unit, not the kit. It is unfortunate that the instructions for the diy kit isn't easy to follow. The motor on my unit is on the left side (with the vacuum attachment being the back) at an approximate 45degree below the cylinder. The unit I have does have a groove cut out to allow room for the belt to pass under the table. Hope that helps. If I get a chance, I'll try to post some pictures.

[@dano6941]

@@DustyWorkbench thanks for the reply, I reworked my design a bit and attached the motor under the unit. I am using it to flatten segmented rings for bowls, it seems to work great. My only real issue is the very poor instructions, and entire lack of support from Stockroom supplies. I have sent emails and posted on their facebook page, and nothing. So luckily the product is ok, as their support is non existant.

[@JoshuaFranklinDJ]

**SAD TROMBONE** site links are BROKEN. Google Links are Broken, did you forget to pay hour hosting bill?

[@DustyWorkbench]

Thanks for letting me know. :) I checked the links and they all worked for me. Some of the social links needed updates but otherwise everything else seem to be working properly. Maybe there was a glitch or do you have some security blocking app in place? Thank you for watching and I will ask some friends to test them out to be sure. Cheers Paul

[@jnrmrtn]

Is the surface the same height on each side of the drum? Or is it offset like a jointer?

[@DustyWorkbench]

It is the same height on each side. The sandpaper is attached to the cylinder with velcro. When turned on the sand paper goes above the height of the surface due to centrifugal force. There is air gap between the sandpaper and the cylinder so does not heat up or gum up as much. You determine the depth of removal according to the sandpaper grit. Simple as want less removal put finer grit, want more removed use higher grit. We keep an 80 grit in ours that we use as our first sanding pass.

[@chip7646]

Do you have to purchase special sand? With a velcro back on it?

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hi 👋 Yes, it has a similar backing as the sandpaper for orbital sanders. We bought ours through stockroomsupply.ca but you can also get it from places like Amazon 👍

[@DustyWorkbench]

Yes, you need a hook & loop backing like these --> stockroomsupply.com/collections/flatmasters-and-diy-drum-kits/products/3-v-drum-sandpaper-roll-hook-loop-stearate-coated?variant=36527089156259

[@bobbray9666]

When you bought this 30" pre-built Flatmaster, did you have to order the steel top separately? It looks like the 30" unit pre-built come with a MDF top. I can call them on Monday when they're open but thought I can order the right stuff today if I get an answer. Thanks!

[@DustyWorkbench]

The 30" does come with the steel top but it does have an mdf layer underneath.

[@bobbray9666]

@@DustyWorkbench Thank you!

[@tomgill6445]

Have you tried sanding a very thin, (1/8" thick or less), stock? Seems like it would leave ridges where your fingers push down on the stock. I'm looking for a drum sander for flattening thin stock for laminations and veneer.

[@DustyWorkbench]

No, we haven't tried it on thin stock and feel that it would not be a good option. As you mentioned if you don't have perfect pressure throughout the process of moving the wood veneer across the sandpaper you will be left with grooves. The only way I can see it working is if you had a way to attach the thin stock to a rigid backer board, then remove from the backer once complete or attaching the veneer to your finished piece and then pass through. Using a very fine grit of course to ensure you do not take too much off at once.

[@douglaspollock102]

Maybe adhering it to a flat panel would suffice. For small items on a drum sander, a backer board can be used with a thin rear edge stopper to keep it from sliding off the rear.

[@christianratajczak3884]

But I can take any drum sander, remove the top where the dust collection hose attaches, build a box with a hole to attach a hose to, lift the drum about 3 inches above the conveyor belt, lower the drum onto that box, now you got dust collection from the bottom of the drum. Build a box with a slot and a flat table for the top of the drum sander and set it on top, so the drum shows show like your Flat Master through that slow, and you got a flat master made out of your drum sander, two machines as one. And with simple back and forth, you can switch. Can you do that with Flat Master? Not without building a drum sander. So get a drum sander and make a jig that turns it into a flat master.

[@DustyWorkbench]

You sure can! If you do, would love to see it. Stumpy nubs made his own version of a top and bottom feed sander as you describe: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZjUeoGaf8Zsjdk Another thing to consider is using the Flatmaster cylinder instead of the drum sander cylinder/drum. The Flatmaster cylinder is polycarbonate (antistatic) and velcro which allows air for air between the cylinder and sandpaper keeping it from heating and gumming up.

[@christianratajczak3884]

@@DustyWorkbench Thank you for the video link to Stumpy’s drum sander. It’s a good prelude to what I’m about to do. I will post a link to my video once I do it. It will be a while as I got other furniture projects due before I can execute on this side project. The static electricity issue can be resolved with a spraying metallic conductive paint on the PVC pipe and the wooden drum sides in Stumpy’s machine. The advantage of the commercial machine modification is that you don’t have the issue with static as the drum is made out of Aluminum, but also you got the cooling properties of the drum taking the heat away from the paper. I did watch a video of a home made sanding machine and in some cases the Velcro caused overheating as it acts like an insulator and it kept that sand paper getting hotter and hotter. Ideally you would want an aluminum drum or better yet copper as copper has even better thermal properties and have fins in the inside of the drum under an angle so when the drum spins it draws air from one side and exhausts it from the other keeping it cool. Another cool addition to a drum sander or a wide belt sander would be an air blade you see on those hand dryers in restrooms from Dyson. A thin wide narrow opening which would be directed at the rotating drum, removing any stuck in dust and debris from the sand paper making it last longer and always having a fresh paper sanding the surface. I’ve tried that with my compressor while sanding. Maybe I’ll think of how to implement it in my JET 22-44OSC oscillating drum sander and make a video about that. Thank you again. Cheers.

[@HeliRy]

I can’t be the only one wondering how to Frankenstein a helical cutter head (or two) onto that thing haha.

[@DustyWorkbench]

Hahaha...yes that would make for a good size jointer for the fraction of the cost ;)

[@CycoBillywoodworking]

you didnt mention it dosent come with a motor so the price keeps going up

[@DustyWorkbench]

Sorry Bill, thought I did but you are correct. You can start from the basic parts kit and build your own box or buy a full unit (cylinder, pulleys, bearings, steel box and top, etc.) and you add the motor of your choice or buy one from them as well. Can be just plain motor or pay extra for them to wire up with a switch.

[@jtsands2008]

I personally appreciate the option of not purchasing with a motor. Hoping to save a couple hundred bucks because I'm pretty sure we have an extra motor out in our repair shop i can use. :) Should save on shipping costs as well.

[@leroyrobaldo4004]

My spelling HOBBY not HOPPY