5 WOODWORKING Tools to AVOID Part 2 || The SOLUTIONS.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you so much for watching!! Please leave me a comment letting me know what you thought. I would be very grateful if you could like and subscribe too as that helps the channel enormously. Thank you again.

[@jamesbeecher4431]

Kreg makes a smaller jig for 1/2-inch material. It has thinner and shorter screws for the smaller materials. It's the Kreg Jig ®Mini. And the smaller screws are 1 inch and 3/4-inch lengths.

[@Gazman299]

Kreg KPHJ230 - Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig Micro - Micro Jig for Thin Stock@@jamesbeecher4431 Thanks for the tip. I'll be getting myself one of these.

[@stephandelange1776]

For your drilling issue. I'm really old school. Been woodworking for over 30 years. I do have a drill press, it does the work perfectly. But sometimes you just can't take your work to a drill press and you do need a straight hole. Like I said, I'm very old school. I use my table saw or miter saw "The one that gives you the straightest cuts" Cut myself a few nice straight pieces of scrap and screw it together "in a butt joint" just so the jig stands on its own "just make sure that it's square" and there;;;; you have a straight reference guide, put your drill against that piece of wood that acts like a wall and follow it, and you'll always have perfectly straight holes. Like your videos! Thanks

[@startmaking1]

Great advice Stephen, thank you

[@robertberger8642]

Excellent follow-up video, thanks!

[@startmaking1]

Oh, Im glad you found it. Not many people do.

[@alharris3157]

Bought a rip-off pocket hole jig, so really cheap. After practice I found that the finish was very dependent on speed of drill and pressure applied. Your comment on practice making things better stands here as well.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Al. Good advice on the drill speed. I will give it a shot. Thank you. And thank you for watching and commenting.

[@kasroa]

That table was easily straight enough to check a square against. But glad the metal straight edge confirmed it.

[@startmaking1]

It was one I had to add in as the last video gained as few comments saying the table was not straight.

[@davidcurtis5398]

I have a square that is over 75 years old and still square. Metal blade - wooden base. If you take the corner (red) jig and place a clamp on the top side, you will draw the mitre together. The angle jigs you make can also be square with all 4 corners cut off. Then you have 4 corner jigs to use when one side gets bad. I've used these for many years. The Kreg pocket hole jigs are the best in my opinion. I have had and used one for the past 40 years (take or leave a few years). I was taught that the drill needs to stop just shy of going through the end of the wood that you are drilling. this is so that the wood will be easier to get full contact. The hole going completely through the wood will usually leave some type of shaving and the wood will not come together because of the particles left by the drill. If this is the case, you will need to sane the ends. I just used my Kreg jig on 1/2 inch ply and it worked fine. My first Kreg jig was made completely of aircraft grade aluminum with the steel drill guides and it still works to this day.

[@startmaking1]

Great comment David. Thank you. Amazing that the quality of the Kreg Jig has lasted that long. Really impressive.

[@lfernandplopsa3627]

Yup, you never want to loose that rubber bit, or you gonna be in trouble in 9 months 😁😁👍👍 great video mate

[@startmaking1]

Hi Ifernand. Officially my favourite comment of the week. Thank you for making my laugh. Spat some coffee too . Thank you for watching .

[@twfc7]

Portable drilling the Millscraft is rubbish. It will drill semi straight holes but Plastic bearings make any hole you drill wobble like crazy. The wooden corner brackets are great. Turn the ply sideways so it is 2inches or wider and the stability increases dramatically. Thanks for the tape wrap on the handle . Brilliant.

[@startmaking1]

Oh, that's a shame I was tempted. Back then and now. And thank you for your sound advice,

[@andrewhilton2167]

I have bought the faithful prestige tri square & set square no issues or quads recommending either. Good price & good quality.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Andrew, thank you so much. I love a good recommendation, Will take a look. Thank you for watching and for commenting.

[@djcr_91]

CD drilling guide is a nifty idea. Will be giving that a go in the future

[@startmaking1]

Hi Djcr, Thank you for you comment.

[@huonlemercier264]

Thanks so much for providing great content for KZbin. I love your presentation style, yes I do agree with the commentary on your last video and yes the comments were correct but your original advice was not incorrect. In any hand skill craft there are always more than one way to use a tool for a desired outcome, your advice about the hinge centring drill bits was spot on as I also tried to cheep out, I now use the Snappy brand drill bits and they are a delight to use, the same with the angle drill adaptor the better quality ones are so much better. Thanks for taking onboard the comments on your last video and updating the presentation

[@startmaking1]

Hi. Thank you very much. To be honest , I learn more from the comments than anywhere else on the net. Such a great community.

[@michaelshelnutt3534]

Great. I hadn’t thought about the ratchet strap for miters… will have to get a couple. Thx

[@startmaking1]

Hi Michael. To be honest I originally bought it for boxes but it turned out I was struggling because my cuts were not square, hence not square boxes. But then I saw someone use on mitres, amazing. Definitely grab couple and my only advice is set them out on the dry fit and only loosen them a tiny amount then add glue. If you add glue then start getting the clamp out to use, it can get frustrating and messy. Thank you for watching and especially for commenting.

[@djcr_91]

Just a pointer on the pocket hole problem, there are specific pocket hole screws for this application as the standard countersink screws tend to split the wood due to the wedge shape of the countersink head. Pocket hole screws are flat on the bottom so don’t have this problem, and may be smaller in diameter which could solve the 1/2” board issue

[@startmaking1]

Hi Djcr Thank you for the comment and for watching. You are right and I wanted this to be a fair test. The screws provided are the bugle type. In the original video where I point the issues out I say this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2nNfaOvrdyWpKc But for a fair test I decided to use the screws that were provided. They are a right pain to use and I have replaced them with proper pocket screws. Thank you for reaching out.

[@ianmurray3820]

RE POCKET HOLE JIG’s - I tried the Trend version of the one you had and got mixed results, but after watching the “ hooked on wood “ Chanel I bought a Chinese branded version ( Enjoy Wood ) similar to the tre trend one with built in toggle clamp which was half the price and worked a treat, the drill bit wasn’t the best so I used the trend one from the other jig … so far so good - another budget option maybe.!?

[@davidcurtis5398]

Very fine observation and true...

[@CeeJayThe13th]

I honestly hadn't thought of super gluing the feet on my cheap clamps. That's a pretty decent tip to keep them in place.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Cee Jay. that's very kind thank you for taking the time to comment.

[@steverugg389]

Thanks your videos have been very informative !

[@startmaking1]

Hi Steve. What a lovely comment. Thank you so much. Still learning a lot as I go. Thank you for watching.

[@LpDesignBuid]

Another good video sharing the results from the previous video. This provides excellent knowledge for improving woodworking without the pain of learning it for yourself. Well done, Thanks

[@startmaking1]

Your too kind, thank you

[@ericrickert3045]

Well done! Keep making! I never had the strap clamp but will get one. I will also make the right angles from scrap.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Eric, Thank you so much. Very much appreciated.

[@AndrewDale-pg5zg]

Have a lot of smiler problems with tools not doing the job to my satisfaction. Was great to watch your part two of bad tools especially the feed back. Good to know i'm not alone. Good for you. Now all you got to do is show me how to cut a dead straight line with a circler saw.. The point is we are beginners not life long pro's.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Andrew. Thank you for your comment. It sounds like we are in a very similar boat here. I have to say, the main reason I started making videos was because I started out and could not find any easy builds and tool guides to bridge the gap to the more professional woodworkers. As for the straight line with a circular saw, goodness knows. I use a straight edge and it still gets away from me. I am very seriously considering getting a track saw, table saws make me nervous. Well, that and the lack of electricity. I tried a home made track saw of sorts using overlapping pieces of plywood but they were awful. The only success I have had is a smaller, very rough crosscut track that I made very early on. It pops up still in videos. Really rough. Thank you for watching and let me know if you come up with a solution, we can learn together.

[@monteglover4133]

On the clamp pads are occasionally made from a plastic that ca glue does not stick to, silicone rubber will adhere to almost all plastics. Here in the US we have Harbor Freight (a cheap tool store) there tools range from dumpster fill to very good buy.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Monte. What a great piece of advice. Thank you, I had genuinely no idea. Thank you for watching too.

[@michaelplays2449]

Great video !! very enjoyable......thank you

[@startmaking1]

Thank you michael

[@graemeadamson7272]

Thanks for your input Mark, a decent speed/rafter square , 6 quick grip clamps , a good straight edged flat square are all I've ever used , 9hh and a sharp.pencil 😂 . Love the ratchet-strap idea !! Haven't delved into the world of pocket screw jointing yet but great info on it . As you say it's worth , in the long run , spending a bit more for quality tools that should last a lifetime. Rafter square is an absolute game changer. Cheers 👊

[@startmaking1]

Hi Graeme. Thank you so much for your comment and for watching. Pocket holes have their place and when used for it are excellent. Not for every project though. I love a sharp pencil, if I can ever remember where I keep putting them. Cheers

[@abihill7355]

Another great video! Cheers Mark

[@startmaking1]

Lovely comment. Thank you

[@williambuckley1185]

Great advice again, Love your vids.

[@startmaking1]

Wow, one of my first here.

[@contessa.adella]

Shop buying Tip 1: In store you can check things like spirit levels and metal bar stock for straightness, by laying it against others in store AND flipping them around AND hold two touching straight edges up to the light to check for gaps. Some ‘straight edges’ are amazingly spot on..others can have visible bends making them useless. Once out of the store you can’t prove you didn’t bend it. Tip 2: Long straight edges…try a “plasterers feather”…I got an aluminium hollow section feather 1.6m long WITH ruler grads in cm, checked for perfect straightness as above. Effectively, a long four inch wide tapered edge dead straight ruler - perfect for laying out bigger jobs. Plus, if I ever need to plaster a wall…. Tip 3: Vertical hand drill…glue a small circular bubble level on the back of the drill body (after aligning it vertical with squares first of course).

[@startmaking1]

Hi Contessa. You are absolutely right about checking in store. My issue is that there are very few quality tool shops near me and so the temptation to take the easy route and order online is strong. Not right but strong. I will check out the plasterers tool, sounds like a really good suggestion. Thank you.

[@b3arwithm3]

I do have the bubble on my drill, but that requires the work surface to be level.

[@donwilburn2470]

Great video bud. I made a home made drill guide and by the time I got done. The amount of materials and time I put in it, it was worth just buying a used drill press on buy sell trade for 40 bucks

[@startmaking1]

Hi Don. I have toyed with the idea of making one and am glad that you have confirmed my suspicions about cost and time. I am currently looking on marketplace for a used one. Thank you for you comment and for watching, Much appreciated.

[@ugaladh]

I pretty much use my strap clamp like you do, set up the corners 90 degrees first and use the strap for holding while gluing. I also find it handy for repairing/regluing chair legs.

[@startmaking1]

good shout on leg repairs, I don't get my strap clamps out a lot but when I do I am very glad to have them rather than wrestling with multiple f clamps. Far lower stress levels.

[@richardwillcox3571]

I have one of these cheap Chinese drill guides and for the money it's excellent. You use it to drill a pilot hole at 90 your main drill will then follow the path of the first. More applicable to metal . But also works for wood.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Richard. That's great to hear that the guide works for you., Mine, not so much. If you scan the moxon vise video you will see it in action. Not very good. That you for watching and commenting.

[@CJPhillips6648]

Good job, like the video! Cheers.

[@startmaking1]

Hi CJ. Thank you very much. And thank you for watching,

[@C.C.Woodwork]

I use the kreg R3 jig. £35 from Ebay and it's absolutely brilliant for the money. It's worth the extra few quid against the cheaper, unreliable stuff!

[@startmaking1]

That is a good bit of kit.

[@C.C.Woodwork]

​@@startmaking1I've been saving each month for a good tool to get started. The one I had from Temu has a worse fit and cut than most of my shirts haha!

[@johnrobinson1020]

Good video. Regarding the cost of tools etc and the belief that the more you pay the better the tool; this is true to a certain extent but there is a point where in some cases you are just paying for a brand and not the quality of the tool. The really cheap tools are not accurate but if you pay a reasonable price for your tool then chances are it will be just as good as a really expensive one. Drilling straigjht holes for the beginner without using fancy jigs and keep your drill straight on all fronts; simply butt join two pices of timber at right angle and make sure it is a true 90 deg. simply hold the jig at the point where the inner corner is directly over where you want to drill the hole and place your drill with the bit in the inner corner of the right angle and use it to guide the bit through the workpiece as you drill. There will be awkward places where this technique will not work but on flat areas will work fine.

[@startmaking1]

Hi John. Thank you so much for so many lovely and helpful comments. And of course for watching. You are absolutely correct in your assessment of the pricing and I love the idea of the 2 blocks of wood. Forstner bits were the main reason that I bought the rubbish drill guide and sadly there is no easy method that I know of for them. I will try the advice on normal drill bits though. Thank you again.

[@pjfsr7024]

I concur on the Milescraft drill press, works great for me; I also have their pocket Jig 200. I also have a Massca pocket Jig, it's ALL metal.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. The Massca one looks amazing but could not easily get it delivered to the UK. That may have changed now,.

[@ilishmaach]

​@@startmaking1the Massca is branded as Trend in the UK

[@vizumov]

You did really a good job, especially #3 part.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Vadim. Thank you very much. Really appreciate your comment.

[@jimtaylor1941]

I have reworked -- deburred, chased threads, filed off molding run-outs, etc. many cheap tools (most were Chinese made) that i have purchased. Did I save any money after putting in time to make them right? Sometimes but it is still aggravating. It is probably worth mentioning that i spent over 50 years as a precision machinist/toolmaker so i am accustomed to having tools that i can count on.I NEVER purchased cheap tools to use on my job but for home onetime use, yes.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Jim. Thank you for commenting. And what a great, well rounded comment. You are right. There is a time and a place for cheap tools. If In was in your position I would never buy cheap for work. I actually just bought a load of old tools on auction and ended up with what I think are machinist tools. No idea. They are on one of the latest videos. Not to get you to watch,. But please let me know if you recognise any. Anyway, thank you for watching this one.

[@teacheme]

Like the cd idea. Have you thought of using tennis racket replacement banding grips or even bike handlebar grips? Not designed for clamp handles (obviously) and fixings may require some gluing. Check out Amazon.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Costa. How was the sound? Thank you for commenting. I looked at racket grips but the price was higher overall. Good idea though for a favourite mallet or something.

[@teacheme]

@@startmaking1 Sound perfect (for me at least.) I agree the grips are a bit pricy and would be best used, as you say, on a cherished tool. Keep up the good work. BTW hows the power project coming along?

[@startmaking1]

@@teacheme Great to hear . Sadly no further along but In will get there. Thank you for the feedback, again.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Brilliant- drilling a hole through a CD improves the sound considerably. Smoother and more expansive- the emotion really comes through. I find 5 x 10mm holes gives the greatest improvement. You need to use a cordless drill though- using a mains drill really muddies the sound stage depth. Tell your audiophile friends, and offer to improve their CDs for, say, £5 each. p.s. no right angle is perfect. But it may be within tolerance.

[@startmaking1]

Brilliant. I had to read this twice to ensure it was tongue in cheek .

[@mangoretheogre4178]

for drilling right angle holes freehand, try gluing a small round bubble level to the back of your drill if the back is square to the bit

[@startmaking1]

What a great idea. That is the first time someone has recommended that. Thank you. Will see if the back is flat. Sods law it wont be but you never know. Thank you for taking the time to comment.

[@russveinot5754]

About 3 years ago, I made a video on how to add a bubble level to a hand drill. I also made a video on do's & don'ts of using the bubble level & your drill, to drill perfectly vertical holes. To view them, just do a search on my channel on the phrase "bubble" and they will pop up. Let me know if you can't find them and I will post the link.

[@jenniferfrancis3298]

Great video

[@startmaking1]

Thanks!

[@kwilliams2239]

Instead of using tape for the handles, Amazon has different size shrink tubing intended for fishing pole handles. It's fairly cheap and lengths of about 18" IIRC, so can be cut to the desired length.

[@startmaking1]

Hi K Williams. If it works out cheaper or better then I am all for giving it a try. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@canadianwoodville798]

Milescraft drill guide is ok if you're in a bind. I cannot recommend it over any other brand. The chuck still has a bit of play, so your holes won't be perfect. If you offset 2 pieces of wood and use that as a guide - you'll get the same results.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Canadian Woodville. Thank you for commenting, For drills I would also suggest the 2 bits of wood together. I bought the guide for forstner bits which I was struggling with.

[@cliffleach350]

Hi, I think you could get a simple pillar drill and change the motor to a 12v brushless fairly simply Mark.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. I will have to take a look. Appreciate the advice.

[@JohnMellor-nd8bs]

My father was an engineer and from being small he always said buy the best you can afford buy cheap by twice wait that little bit longer and save a bit more to get better quality it's cheaper in the long run

[@startmaking1]

Hi John. Sounds like a smart man. Very sound advice. Thank you for commenting and for watching.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Have you seen the magnetic mitre square? Well worth the extra. No fiddling with that little brass screw, no clamp falling out and rolling under the workbench, no hassle trying to get the rule back in the frame. You will never go back...

[@startmaking1]

Really? Wow. Just googled it. That looks super handy. Thank you Mike, PS love the new name.

[@whatsinaname333]

With the pocket hole jig, I think you are using the wrong screws. Bugle head screws not only don’t fit, they don’t hold. Pan head or button head screws will work much better, or you can buy pocket-hole screws made for the purpose.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Robert . Thank you for the comment and for watching. You are right and I wanted this to be a fair test. The screws provided are the bugle type. In the original video where I point the issues out I say this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2nNfaOvrdyWpKc But for a fair test I decided to use the screws that were provided. They are a right pain to use and I have replaced them with proper pocket screws. Thank you for reaching out.

[@Litehamer]

Hi. I’m late to the party but what is that vice you have on your bench called ? Can I make one or buy one ?

[@startmaking1]

The vice is a moxon vice. I love mine. you basically can buy a kit. It's not too hard to make one.

[@medlytek]

Milescraft fan here. I seem to get better results than kregs. My technique is different I guess. My next jig I need is for drawers.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bryan. Thank you for your comment. I am sold now for the miles craft drill guide. So many people have recommended it. Interesting that you prefer that to Kreg. A jig for draws would be amazing, they are my nemesis. Thank you for watching.

[@howarddavies3744]

With regard to using a reflection to drill, I use this to cut perpendicular to an edge, as you can align the reflection in the blade of a handsaw. It doesn't help with keeping the cut at 90 degrees in both planes but it does give you some help.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Howard. You are right. I was looking at this as I am about to attempt my first dove tail. Will be polishing the blade on my saw first. Every bit of help I can get is vital .Thank you for watching and for commenting

[@eclecticapoetica]

if you need a reference for square, take any piece of 80 gsm printer paper and fold it carefully in quarters, hold the resultant triangle up against your material to check if there are any gaps

[@startmaking1]

Oh, I like that advice. Thank you. really simple

[@pazmaniaoh6341]

Love the energy

[@startmaking1]

Hey. Thank you so much and thank you for commenting.

[@michaelfairchild]

I did bought the Wolfcraft drill stand and it was quite sturdy, but in the end I did bit the bullet and got myself a proper drill press from Bosch. I couldnt be bothered to go "OMG where is my CD?".

[@startmaking1]

Lol fair enough. I am a little jealous of pillar drills. One day maybe.

[@michaelfairchild]

@@startmaking1 I feel you with trying do work with what you got. Did that for year, even a knife was my screwdriver sometimes. For drill press you should look for Parkside or Scheppach. They wont be the top tier and will have some wobble sometimes, but Ive owned the Parkside one and with modifications they can be quite good. Only downsize are the engines which can work max 15 minute and need to cooloff after it.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you for the advice.

[@dougbalcombe6143]

I drill a 1/4in hole at the top of the red handle on the bar clamp and I use a 3 or 4 in nail to tighten the clamp

[@startmaking1]

Hi Doug. Thank you for your advice. I will give it a shot. Much appreciated.

[@ericrickert3045]

Kreg is my tool. It was worth buying and paying extra for a good product.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Eric., Agreed. Pleasure to use. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@randygreen2401]

Maybe someone else mentioned, pocket hole screws are flat under the head, not trumpet shaped. The trumpet shape will go in deeper and cause wood to split!

[@startmaking1]

Randy. You are absolutely correct, If you get a chance watch the first one of these. I say the same thing, but this pack came with the trumpet screws I have no idea why. Thank you for watching and commenting,.

[@gregghernandez2714]

I am not sure if it is available for your particular Kreg jig, but there is a black adapter that is available for their older models. It has smaller drill holes so you can use smaller drill bits for thinner plywood. If you watch the Kreg demo of the guy building a nice looking cabinet using nothing but Kreg products, he uses it to attach the drawer bottom to the drawer with small screws. That Wolfcraft jig looks like an absolute nightmare!

[@startmaking1]

Hi Gregg. What a great piece of advice. Thank you. I will check it out. Would certainly be a big help. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@loganmedia1142]

They do make one for the 720 model.

[@startmaking1]

@@loganmedia1142 Fantastic. I use a lot of half inch ply and that would be amazing

[@chrisbezant4760]

Mark, which Creg pocket hole jig do you use?

[@startmaking1]

Hi Chris I use this one, The 720 pro, amzn.to/3HBz7h5. PS that is an affiliate link, apologies, it's the only one I have to hand. you can google the name though instead if you like., Great tool.

[@christopherharrison6724]

Block of wood with a corner cut into it which is square can be used as a guide to drill square (a Paul Sellers technique)

[@startmaking1]

Hi Christopher. Anything recommended by Paul Sellers is fine by me. He's forgotten more about woodworking than I have ever known. Thank you again.

[@walruss60]

Love the CD hack

[@startmaking1]

Very handy in a pinch.

[@jimtaylor1941]

I noticed you use a Worx drill. (I love their tools.) Have you checked out their Nitro drill with the rotating dual head?

[@startmaking1]

Hi Jim. Good spot. This thing wont die. I was trying to get on the same battery platform as my other tools but it is so sturdy and puts up with all of the abuse I give it. Bonkers. Just googled the nitro. I like the concept. I wonder how well it lasts with the dual head.

[@andiedonahue9400]

Excellent video! other content creators would get more comments if they responded the way you do!

[@startmaking1]

Wow, three videos in one sitting. Well done you. Wish everyone fell down the rabbit hole, so to speak. I guess a lot of content creators get so many comments that they can't keep up. Who knows. I am trying to grow the community I already have. There are so many really kind people who post really positive comments. Much like yours. Makes it really easy to reply. Not looking forward to a time when I grow enough to attract the more negative comments. Anyway., Thank you kindly for watching as many as you have, for commenting and for subscribing. Means a lot for someone learning the ropes as I am.

[@Keith-b4r8o]

My Grandfather used to say "If you can't afford the best, save up until you can!".

[@startmaking1]

Hi Keith. you Grandfather sounds like he knew what he was talking about. I am a little too impulsive for my own good sadly and end up having to either use or fix cheap tools. I am slowly coming around though.

[@Keith-b4r8o]

@@startmaking1 Me too Mark!

[@dk8435]

One of the 2x Stanley strap clamp I got broke on the bar holding the screw mechanism in place first time I tried it, wasn’t impressed at all. It seemed as though it was made from aluminum or something rather than a nice piece of steel. Ended up reverting back to bar clamps.

[@startmaking1]

Oh that is annoying. I have been very pleased with Stanley for everything except a spoke shave that may or may not have been a knock off.

[@5325jslenk]

For drilling straight use your speedsquare against the drill

[@startmaking1]

Hi James. Spot on. I have been experimenting since this videos release. you are right. Thank you for commenting. And for watching

[@lawrencemay8671]

Measuring from inside to inside cross corners and repeat other cross corner can verify square

[@startmaking1]

Hi Lawrence. Great advice thank you. And thank you for watching,

[@djjinerson]

Great video unfortunately I’ve had to learn a few of these on my own…..where were you a year ago 😡. 🤣

[@startmaking1]

Hi. I hear you,. I wish someone had told me too. Lets hope that others can avoid the price. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@kappab8304]

The slipping F-clamp problem is probably more down to the fact that the malfunctioning clamps moving part with the twisting handle has angle, that is too close to 90 degrees and therefore slips. You would have to open the clamp by removing the stop-pin and trying to file the clamps moving parts oval holes edges so that the clamping angle would be greater and the moving part would bite by itself into the bar due to steeper angle of attack.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Ahto,. Thank you. What a great detailed comment. Really helpful. And thank you for watching,

[@antonia4722]

Combination squares are tunable. There are 2 nubs in the slot on the main body that tunes the straight edge.

[@startmaking1]

Brilliant advice. Thank you

[@harveyarber2543]

90% drilling get a sticky bubble level make sure your drill is level in all directions then stick the little bubble level to the end

[@startmaking1]

Hi Harvey. Great advice. Really good.

[@b3arwithm3]

Yeah the vertical drill guide is very inaccurate. And it is hard to use ergonomically. The result is so bad that anyone can drill freehand and get more straight holes.

[@startmaking1]

Agreed. Shame really as they seemed such a good tool in theory;.

[@b3arwithm3]

@@startmaking1 one hand pushing down on the base of the jig, then we need to push the drill down while keeping the motion somewhat vertical. You need long arms to do it right

[@startmaking1]

YEah, Not really a position I want to take to drill.

[@williammaxwell1919]

Philip Johnson (architect) "Long after the joys of low cost are forgotten, the bitterness of poor quality remains"

[@startmaking1]

Hi William. Never a truer word spoken. This video was around 6 months ago and I have just realeased a more up to date tool recommendation video with pricey and cheap solutions for certain tools. It was while editing this that I realised that I have finally moved away from cheap is best. Finally. thank you for watching

[@bigbloke1956]

Looking at the pocket hole jigtomeit seems you are not using the right screws. They are way to long and the the wrong guage and appear to be countersunk - there are specific screws the job designs may vary but the the way the screw works doesn't

[@startmaking1]

Hi Big Bloke. Thank you for watching and for your comment. You are right but as a fair test I used the screws that came with the kit. In the first video where I just outlined the issues with these tools I spoke about how it should be the proper pocket hole screws. NO idea why they send the kits with these ones. Thank you again for watching, and commenting .

[@markwhitis]

Mil is not an acceptable abreviation fir millimeter. Mil is 0.001inch. understand that mil isnt just an informal abbreviation for milli-inch, mil is the actual officially standardized unit if measure. And the use of 0.001 inch in imperial/us customary units dates back to Joseph Whitworth in 1857. One olace mil is officially defined is the uniform code for units of measure. If you ask gnu units (or similar programs) to convert 34mils, you will get 0.034inch. If you ask google to "convert 34mils to inches" it will give you an answer if 0.034inches (but first you will have to undo the autocorrupt to "miles"). Some things commonly measured in mils is thickness of paper and the width of printed circuit board traces. Also small machined features though "thou" is also used for the same purpose. Mil/mill/mille was also a unit if currency US$0.001 or UK £0.001 going back even further. $0.001 is now "milke" and deriving frim ancent roman not the metric system.

[@startmaking1]

OK. But if its pretty set as a habit now.

[@garyhollywell2112]

Bahco Combination Square £11 on Amazon absolute quality bargin

[@startmaking1]

Hi Gary. This is the third time I have heard that now. I am on my way to check it out. Thank you. And thank you for watching and commenting.

[@georgegriffiths2235]

If you lose the bottom piece of the clamp replace with a plastic coke cap

[@startmaking1]

Great idea. Thank you George

[@Vazik05]

It's the "Good-Cheap-Fast" situation. You can only have 2 of those regardless of the situation. But you can never have all 3.

[@startmaking1]

Oh j like that. Thank you.

[@Vazik05]

​@@startmaking1 I would ADORE being able to take credit for it, but I learned it from Adam Savage lol. I'm still trying to figure out where to even start on anything and your videos give me that itch that "hey, maybe I can do this stuff too". But I'm not there yet, I haven't the tools nor the location sadly.

[@startmaking1]

Oh I get that. It was me a few years ago. My shed was packed with rubbish and I had a few handed down tools. In the end I made 2 saw horses, super rough and popped a plank over the top to make a workbench. Served me well for a summer. Good luck with getting going when the time is right.

[@Vazik05]

@@startmaking1 Thanks for the kind words!

[@spinittweeks3246]

Buenos notches

[@startmaking1]

Thank you

[@soledude]

👍👍👍

[@Bigdog1787]

If I did that 100 times I'd still never be straight my hand shakes ever so slightly I know because when I was taking art classes I noticed it yes there a way to fix that by crossing arms, but can't do that wile drilling.🤭

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bigdog. Im sorry to hear that hand shakes make your woodworking difficult. Crossing arms would certainly hinder drilling. I had a suggestion about butt joining 2 blocks of wood to use as a guide , maybe that is a better fix for you. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@peterglenister2145]

Darn it I own most of these, lol

[@startmaking1]

Hi Peter. Thank you for watching and especially for commenting. Sadly, you are not on your own. Seems to be a rite of passage for most woodworkers.

[@markfrancis4756]

For those who are yet to see the first video outlining the issues with these tools, here is the link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2nNfaOvrdyWpKc

[@startmaking1]

Check this one out

[@abihill7355]

Thanks for the link!

[@startmaking1]

@@abihill7355 you are welcome. Happy watching .

[@MarcusRefusius]

My files only cut in one direction. Cheers

[@startmaking1]

Fair enough. Mine cut both ways. Just one way more than the other lol

[@TonyRussell-b6n]

Sorry, but you really don't know how to use an F clamp. When you want it to bind, you put pressure on the outside edge of the anvil (i.e furthest from the contact pad). The way you were handling it garantees that it won't hold! I didn't watch teh rest.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Tony. Dont be sorry. I didn't read the rest.

[@antony3678]

The clamp protectors are PLASTIC NOT RUBBER! Who has a workshop with no mains power?

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. And me is the easiest answer lol.

[@antony3678]

I have my workshop in a shipping container. I spent over 30 years living all over Australia in the Army. So everything has to be portable and packable. I'd like to send you some pictures or video for your channel to show you don't need a shed. I even have mains power!

[@BigHenFor]

There's no need to shout - capitals aren't needed. Bad nettiquette

[@linachouinard9055]

you are using thr wrong screws for the pocket wholes

[@startmaking1]

Hi Lina. Thank you for your comment. Take a look at the first video you will see that these are the screws that it came with. So for an accurate test of the jig I have used them. In the first video I tested it with the proper screws. Thank you so much for watching and especially for commenting.

[@jenniferfrancis3298]

Great video

[@startmaking1]

Thanks!