Unfortunately using flatshift is a bit harder on the clutch, which caused it to slip. It was only a 12.69 @ 126mph, but, for reference the 100-200km/h was only 6.71 on that run, so it's basically a throw away. The car should have no issue breaking the 130mph barrier in the quarter assuming the clutch holds on.
@TheJohnb357112 жыл бұрын
@@TheCarPassionChannel adjusting either the clutch grab point to be a bit lower or the position of the clutch switch could help it not to slip with FFS
@TheCarPassionChannel2 жыл бұрын
@@TheJohnb35711 Most likely yes, but I've had it slip a couple times even just rolling into full boost at mid RPM. I believe the torque rating it 510lb-ft, and if that's at the crank, the motor is producing slightly more than that. I'm thinking about just upgrading the pressure plate
@TheJohnb357112 жыл бұрын
@@TheCarPassionChannel seems like a good call with everything apart already. i was debating saying anything since you are so methodological with all this stuff
@removeableskull74462 жыл бұрын
Exhaust leak at the manifold ? Loose crank pulley ?
@CashedOutCars2 жыл бұрын
Thank you Mexico for providing these proving grounds
@38tech2 жыл бұрын
It tis the way when you are forging new territory. If it's not the rod bearing and the noise is coming from upfront, maybe the oil pump?
@mellopelas28572 жыл бұрын
As a Mexican, your welcome :)
@andyanderson77122 жыл бұрын
Is there no speed limit in Mexico? Seems that youre setting yourself up driving like that in a country where corruption is so rampant.
@38tech2 жыл бұрын
@@andyanderson7712 yeah def DONT get pulled over in Mexico. Unless you have a wad of cash.
@davidbarlowjr75832 жыл бұрын
"-And everything went okay until!... Nah just kidding." BOYYYYY You had me lol
@ethownzbh2 жыл бұрын
My miata is still sitting after I threw a rod bearing years ago and then swapped in an engine that had no compression in one cylinder lol so I feel this pain to some degree.
@accordv6er2 жыл бұрын
Lol me too!! Except I have since swapped that* engine, for another ... That has a bad HG leak into the cooling system. About to dig up a Gen III hemi and say f it. Already did a standalone this last go round so not hard to swap at this point
@ethancargile12642 жыл бұрын
Yup! Did a 1.8 swap to replace a nuked 1.6 only to realize that the head was trash and low compression on cylinder 4. Finally found a good motor at a good price after months of looking. You’ve got this homie
@bandwagon2402 жыл бұрын
Kinda sounds like crank walk to me. If you put the trans back in, fire it up and have someone depress the clutch while you watch the crank pulley. This is always how we did it in DSM times.
@thetuber7052 жыл бұрын
or just push/pull on the flywheel.
@jptperformance2 жыл бұрын
I’m going with thrust bearing failure. Highly unlikely to be rod or crank bearing since the car made it home with out a problem
@johnmoscrop92532 жыл бұрын
That was my thought as well 👍
@hewbambam2 жыл бұрын
If it were a thrust bearing it would change when the clutch were pushed in
@jptperformance2 жыл бұрын
@@hewbambam not necessarily since the clutch was acting strange and it does not make noise when the clutch is pressed the rear thrust washer would be the one that went not the front See if the front went you would be spot on correct saying extra noise would be apparent but if the rear goes when you press the clutch it would fix the sloppy tolerance and press on the front thrust washer But it’s all speculation until it’s taken apart and the problem is found
@kitastan2 жыл бұрын
On the last pull you can clearly hear increased noise on 4th gear. I don't think it is rod knock, more like main bearing knock (I had one failed me last year and it was similar noise). It may be also piston slap but I'm more on the main bearing problem. Funny think is that when main bearing spoon oil pressure dropped only by a little... Till the end I was hoping it will be simple fix 😔
@Nasonix22 жыл бұрын
If his main bearings were gone, he'd have little to no oil pressure. He does have upgraded oil pump and if it's shimmed, putting out more oil pressure flow/psi than factory then maybe he'd still have some oil pressure but you'd still see a noticeable change. It would likely be half as much as before or worst.
@kitastan2 жыл бұрын
@@Nasonix2 like I said I had spun main bearing and the oil pressure were little lower but was still there. It may be also bend rod. We will see when he drop the oil pan.
@Grumpini2 жыл бұрын
19:47 Crank walk/thrust bearing
@R3IMU2 жыл бұрын
Good guess Senjougahara san. That would also explain the "clutch slip"...
@sjorsangevare2 жыл бұрын
@@R3IMU @TheCarPassionChannel I dont know if you get notifications from replies to comments but this man makes a good point
@J3n5552 жыл бұрын
My guess too!
@kitastan2 жыл бұрын
@@R3IMU why it would explain clutch slip? I would say rather the effect would be no clutch disengagement rather than slip.
@sjorsangevare2 жыл бұрын
@@kitastan it depends on which way the crank walks right? If it goes forward the clutch will slip
@blandflatland89152 жыл бұрын
Bought a 1990 Miata and fixing all kinds of things and your videos helped me immensely in tackling the timing belt/loctite fix. I’m now dreading pulling the trans to fix a rear seal oil leak. Lol you made pulling the trans look so easy here!
@mxwizzard2 жыл бұрын
The Trans on the miata is easy it takes about 3 hrs to pull out replace the clutch and rear main seal and put it back together
@acentricity82312 жыл бұрын
A couple weeks ago I was doing pulls when I lost a bit of power and my exhaust got louder. I figured the downpipe vband got loose from the heat. I tightened it, but the power loss and noise didn't go away. Checked everything I could, compression, oil, timing, ect and second guessing myself on all of it. I was racking my head trying to figure it out until I happened to notice a bolt was missing off the back of my turbo. I have a ebay special t3/t4 internal waste gate with the 5-bolt pattern that turns into a 3" v-band. Apparently when they drilled the bolt holes, they went all the way through the housing. The bolt must've gotten hot and fell out which allowed the exhaust to bypass the turbine and the O2 sensor to misread. One trip to Ace Hardware and everything was back to normal. It doesn't sound like that's your problem, but here's to hoping your issue is an uncommon stupid simple to fix too.
@Flavbean2 жыл бұрын
Man, I wish I lived next to a guy like you. So much Miata knowledge. Thank you for the great content 🙏 😀
@hittman85922 жыл бұрын
I'm going with crank walk/thrust bearing.
@willmaddox19862 жыл бұрын
Sounds like thrust bearing too me. Might be worth tapering in that 30psi 😂
@ciao7162 жыл бұрын
Amazing diagnostic and your explanation through it. Looking forward for more in depth video and when you'll find out what has happened :D
@TheCarPassionChannel2 жыл бұрын
I was hoping someone would appreciate it and that it wasn't too boring!
@elwindewitte2 жыл бұрын
@@TheCarPassionChannelit's always super interesting and honestly entertaining when you breakdown how you go about finding problems and fixing them! Hoping it's somewhat fixable, but at least she had a good run! Man those pulls were awesome!
@elwindewitte2 жыл бұрын
I should add that these more in-depth videos are exactly what inspired me to work on my own car and do (and learn) maintenance myself. If you go little by little you'll get there. Really happy to have been doing a lot the work myself ever since owning my Miata! Forever grateful for that, thanks Greg!
@kolopiom_og2 жыл бұрын
Aw hell yea, miata monday Edit: big sad on the engine issues, hopefully it turns out to be something easy to diagnose and fix
@MaxSpeedMike2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the thorough diagnostics and explanations
@ghostpunkkilla2 жыл бұрын
The way we used to diagnose rod knock was while the engine is running pull a plug wire on each cylinder and see of the noise gets quieter. Obviously you would cycle this if you don't hear it change, and it'll be a little different since you have COP. But perhaps you can just kill each cylinder via the tuner.
@Red2l16v2 жыл бұрын
This is perfect for rod knock. I was going to suggest it but an oil analysis will tell the story. Along with a check of endplay. You can do that with the trans off with a pry bar.
@8JustARegularGuy82 жыл бұрын
The worst things always happen to the best people! Great explanation in the video for each diagnostic test you did and why. To me, like some others have said, sounds like main bearings or crank walk. It gives a very similar sound to rod knock, but obviously every test you've done has exhausted that possibility. The only way I know to test for main bearings is by taking everything apart and visually inspecting them unfortunately. Every video that comes out with the red car is always exciting. Seeing this car progress over the years really brings me, and I'm sure a lot of other people motivation. Keep up the great work, keep your head up, and keep the amazing content coming. Sometimes the best things you can do is walk away from something, sleep on it, and start again with a clear mind.
@BigIsleJ2 жыл бұрын
I’m sure whatever it ends up being, you’ll figure it out and share the knowledge. Mahalo for all you do!
@jimmy49932 жыл бұрын
Rod Bearings, main Bearings or thrust Bearing. Either way I think you're up for a rebuild mate. I was in Mexico the other day too....but the one in Australia 🇦🇺
@TheCarPassionChannel2 жыл бұрын
Lmaooo the Australian Mexico is another hot spot
@Girz0r2 жыл бұрын
Just thinking how beneficial this video is to all the new people wanting to build turbo miats. Great Video!
@tickandslug2 жыл бұрын
Hell yeah. Love these testing videos, Greg.
@of_lion222 жыл бұрын
Though rather unfortunate, glad the car didn't have a catastrophic failure like the 1.6 My guess, like others have said, Worn thrust bearing. I'd imagine a very stiff pressure plate would increase thrust loads. To pull out an old DSM meme; "See Crank? See Crank Walk Walk Crank! Walk!"
@91ludesit2 жыл бұрын
It sounds like either thrust clearance or main bearing failure. This man out here finding the limits of the block.
@elijahbakker15132 жыл бұрын
I built the same motor you did and blew it up instantly because I vapor blasted the head and the media bonded with the residual oil 😭 feel ya man, keep pushing. I built an nb1 motor in another 6 months and now she's running again! Keep it up, it's all worth it in the end!
@dannym77592 жыл бұрын
My condolences to the bottom end dear sir. Definitely sounds like a bottom end bearing issue. Either way, considering the amount of power you were running and it lasted 15k miles consider it a good time. The next build will be even stronger. 🙌🏼
@GE3KSPDMOTORSPORTS2 жыл бұрын
Epic build and amazing troubleshooting. I hope we're all wrong and it's a simple fix. Felt that pain throughout the video. Whatever you do next will be faster and cooler, with this nugget or another, looking forward to that!
@TMonist2 жыл бұрын
Dude, we are here for the good times and the bad times. When you are troubleshooting, we are all troubleshooting. You have me on the edge of my seat. I feel like we've been into this journey together. Even though you are doing all the work 😆✌️
@dreednlb2 жыл бұрын
Sucks that this happened but this makes for such good content.
@tubejorrit2 жыл бұрын
K24 build? :p
@madmiata18872 жыл бұрын
Did you try the bottom end isolation test?! Remove the top end. unplug fuel pump relay, plug oil ports, crank bottom end and listen for noise! I just made that up, but might help idk. GL homie. That doesn't not sound like rod knock or valve train. I like the crank walk theories, I just never heard crank walk before.
@FDB772 жыл бұрын
My NB2 is also making a knocking noise now, but it doesn't sound like your engine. Mine only happens above ~2k rpm, and it gets louder as the engine warms up. I'm gonna check valve lash right now to see what's up, but I'm really hoping its not a bearing in the bottom end :( I hope Lil' Red recovers fast Greg! You got this.
@mikescherrer49232 жыл бұрын
timing tensioner?
@FDB772 жыл бұрын
@@mikescherrer4923 I’m literally looking at that right now lol. The timing belt is definitely looser than it should be. So I’m trying to loosen up the tensioner bolt to re-tension the belt but I just can’t get that bolt loose. I can’t get a wrench on it enough to loosen it. I also just checked my lash and only 4 of the 16 valves are in spec 🤦♂️😭
@wills_garage3352 жыл бұрын
I'm surprised you didn't check endplay, although when my nb had a thrust bearing failure it still idled smooth, the crank moved under boost and I would lose crank sensor sync
@craig71112 жыл бұрын
Ah man, such a bummer! Thanks for showing us your diagnostic process.
@michaelswitzer92202 жыл бұрын
Ugh, heartbreaker dude. I’ll keep tuning in, curious to see what you find in that engine. Sounds like a rod on my crappy phone speaker, so obviously my opinion is valid. Haha. Keep up the quality content. You’ve probably saved someone from hours of brutal work.
@irebird2 жыл бұрын
Check for bent rods, if one is shorter the sound could be from the piston hitting the crank. But with drive back home I would expect it to self clearance.
@TheWhoever8112 жыл бұрын
Yup, this. But compression on that cylinder might be a bit different if that was the case. I bent a rod one time and it sounded just like this. It got louder and louder on the 2 mile drive home though. It was bending the rod more and more as it was put under load climbing hills and stuff. The crankshaft was eating through the piston and almost made it through to the wrist pin.
@ppppsssshhhh712 жыл бұрын
at least you still got compression. Sounds like a bearing. maybe thrust bearings like I seen below. I would just give the old gal a nice refresh. 15k hard miles, there isn't any shame, and its definitely part of the game. great video as always.
@blackshine0072 жыл бұрын
I once had what I thought was a knock coming from my engine. I waited a couple of weeks before I could replace the rod bearings. Started the car and the noise was still there. Removed the serpentine belt and the noise went away. Turned out the bearings in the alternator failed. At least it had a new set of rod bearings 🤣
@str8slayn12 жыл бұрын
Ol Daddy Gorg blows his 1.8 up again. One day he will realize the error of his ways and come back to the path of the 1.6. Gobbless
@ricepony332 жыл бұрын
Maybe try some Thicc Lucas oil :) But seriously the crank movement seems the most likely.
@chrisg9982 жыл бұрын
Love ya boi, good luck with the motor I’m really pulling for you (in my ND)
@SSHAMR0Ckk2 жыл бұрын
check for end play/crank walk, thats what took out my first built motor, crank was contacting the main caps and wearing it down
@dirtperson4221slash22 жыл бұрын
Congrats on breaking your record! You are a madman.. I wouldn't be surprised if Greg still calculates how much he can eat each day to put maximum funding to each build/#2$jR .. awesome video, thank you
@robertmetcalf33802 жыл бұрын
I think it could be with the hamonic balancer itself or the sensor plate behind it. I had on a truck I owned the damn bolt kept coming loose and it sounded like that.
@Fosgen2 жыл бұрын
Thrust bearings, order new, most expensive, highest quality you can find, and send main crank for balance and polishing.
@ruidiasbraga2 жыл бұрын
This channel is underrated
@cyclingbutterbean2 жыл бұрын
Muffler bearings ? Blinker fluid? Loose nut behind the wheel? I will be interested in what you find. Sorry for your misfortune. It is a monster motor and like you said it has made a ton of power its whole life. Maybe it just be done. Thanks for sharing Professor Peters.
@christianzinn76362 жыл бұрын
WOW! After suffering withdraw it sure was great to see a new post, but my heart broke with yours when the engine went south. I am so very sorry to see this and my heart goes out to you!!! You are a lot smarted then this OG, so I can't give any bright ideas other than the crank. Do you want to pull the oil pan off and give it a look??? Best to you,
@fabiopuglisi51832 жыл бұрын
We are 124k, let’s send 50 cents each to this guy and make his engine on point. With his video he personally helped me saving a lot of money in labour, so I would be more than happy to contribute :)
@thememeyata68372 жыл бұрын
Best of luck problem solving this one, hate this happened so soon. But tis the game of high horsepower.
@jeanboy91082 жыл бұрын
2.0 Fe3 swap. Mazda's version of the 4G63. Basically a big block BP. Holds 400hp with stock internals.
@ferox11832 жыл бұрын
My guess is the thrust bearing because I heard a similar noise a few months ago. When we disassembled a engine we saw significant axial movement and high wear on the thrust bearing.
@sonofthehill13202 жыл бұрын
Glad you made it home.
@nehok2 жыл бұрын
Sorry to see see your troubles Greg! If worst come to worst hopefuly kpower will hook you up with some k24z3 goodies! On anther note boy she was popping in those runs.
@kristiansvensson49652 жыл бұрын
Thank you Greg for all the great videos. I have learned a lot from these over the years. Hope you will find the problem!
@misterg45482 жыл бұрын
Well ... if you REALLY want to know, just go out and hoon it like you stole it and the problem might become more aparent. Like a hole in a block or maybe even a hood. ... On a more serious note: sorry to see it fail, but hey, new project ahead. You found the limitation of this build.
@JamesChurchill32 жыл бұрын
Now you and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the block and replace the piston rings you fried.
@maneki9neko2 жыл бұрын
He says that his compression test is good.
@jobsjobbed51252 жыл бұрын
Really enjoyed this one. Chasing faults are the most interesting 👍
@nicholasfabulous2 жыл бұрын
A heavy duty clutch puts a lot of load on those trust washers jafro spoke about it in his earlier videos
@maneki9neko2 жыл бұрын
Agreed. The worst is at startup when the oil pressure has not developed. A lot of people start in neutral with the clutch engaged to prevent this. This requires that the clutch switch be defeated in some way.
@robclarke3902 жыл бұрын
Feel for you man! Although it's shit, this video was absolutely sick. Loved the in depth problem solving. If anyone can find the issue, it will be you dude.
@WIll525612 жыл бұрын
I'm going with partially spun main bearing or thrust bearing issue. Super sucks, I built mine after seeing you start the vvt build. About to start the 3rd race season on the motor.
@reyes19872 жыл бұрын
I'm in the rebuild stage. Mine ate an exhaust valve. Sorry to hear about your motor man.
@802Garage2 жыл бұрын
Quick question. Why are you running Copper AKA Nickel plugs? Iridium and now Ruthenium are better for performance in every metric AFAIK. Even Platinum have benefits over Nickel. I know there can be good reasons and of course there is a price difference, but Nickel plugs are essentially old tech. Big bummer about the engine! Doesn't really sound rod knockey. Only other thing I can think of is maybe a wrist pin issue? Not even sure when or how those happen, but hey just tossing something out there. Possibly a piston skirt damaged so you are getting piston slap? Hope it's nothing too bad!
@poseidonasas2 жыл бұрын
It could hopefully be a main bearing issue. Also it was induced when selecting the 4th gear by the time the boost raised to 30 psi causing the engine to produce some serious amount of torque. Also the thrust bearing could be the culprit since the noise was introduced at high boost/torque conditions
@Drumheros2 жыл бұрын
I had a similar noise from not tightening water pump pulley bolts enough. I think you would've torqued those down but is there a chance they came loose? Also worth checking any other pulley bolts like crank pulley.
@miatatogo98002 жыл бұрын
I had some art of this sound on my stock MX5 1.8 in my case it comes from the 3 bolts fot the whaterpump wheel they where losen.
@NickPahls2 жыл бұрын
Maybe bent rod? Piston hitting the crank counter weights
@chrisdeli75472 жыл бұрын
if the compression is right it might be thrust bearing 6puck clutches have big impact to the thrust pull and push the flywheel to check for play same thing you did with the rods. another thing if it comes from the nose you might have oil pump issue
@haufperformance2 жыл бұрын
Clutch fork pivot ball popped out then when you disengage the clutch causing extreme amount of pressure to the thrush washer causing thrush washer to go out and your crank to walk.? Idk but it does sound like crank walk
@MrSprintcat2 жыл бұрын
Don't forget to check crankshaft end play
@camaro69blk2 жыл бұрын
Probably the main bearing I'd say. When my main bearings went, the car had a weird vibration and sounded a bit different as well. Especially under slight load, it was noticeable. Unless it's your oil pump about to fail but I doubt it.
@Nasonix22 жыл бұрын
He'd have a noticeable drop in oil pressure if it was main bearing
@camaro69blk2 жыл бұрын
@@Nasonix2 Maybe. Mine was not very noticeable if at all. And it was all the main bearings that were worn. Not spun though.
@lander9172 жыл бұрын
Check your alternator, my scion made the same noise
@Nitrocity71512 жыл бұрын
I would look at the thrust washers, if somehow they were to get out of their spot or start spinning I bet it would make a hell of a noise on the crank but your rod bearings would stay in place, you might be able to check play by moving the crank forwards and backwards but no guarantees on that. Next up I'd check out your oil pump. Since to say the sound is coming from near the nose of the crank. There's also main bearings like others have been saying
@endicuddy2 жыл бұрын
Check for in and out crank play
@jrod15772 жыл бұрын
You can drop your 60-120 further if you reduce drag. Full flat underbody does wonders.
@cigie45752 жыл бұрын
I think it’s the valves man. Since the timing belt was loose I bet it crapped up the valves somehow. One time after replacing my head gasket I tried to scape some carbon off the valves and when I did they stopped sealing properly and suddenly there was a huge loud noise that sounded like it was coming out of the exhaust side of the head and it was a terrible raspy noise. Didn’t want to fool with valves so I bought a new head slapped it on and the problem went away
@samrigby83082 жыл бұрын
Granny shiftin' not double clutchin' like you should. You're lucky that 30lbs shot of boost didn't blow the welds on the intake! Seriously though Greg hope you figure it out. What bottom end failure mode could cause the clutch to slip and the timing belt to loosen?...
@Lecherous_Rex2 жыл бұрын
I would drain the oil and poke the cam in to scope the rods, skirts and the bottoms of the cylinder.. or what you can through the obstructions, water pump too while your at it. If it's got compression it's not bent valves, if you can't see pieces of piston on top in the bore with the scope you probably didn't butt the rings, I doubt the piston would contact the head and be able to pass your bearing test. Best of luck brother, I'll be hurting for you and dying of suspense
@maneki9neko2 жыл бұрын
I would certainly want to check for metal bits in the oil, and then take a look with the camera. They are both cheap tests.
@chrisbosse15222 жыл бұрын
Cut open the filter and maybe send out an oil sample to get tested. Sorry bro. Great video as always.
@VictorMPR2 жыл бұрын
Sorry to see this. With headphones, the engine didn’t sound very healthy way before that last pull. I hope you figure it out and it can be repaired relatively easily. How easy is it to drop de oil pan? Can you access the main bearings with the engine in the car?
@nermalsnert55032 жыл бұрын
Can you take the plugs back out and measure piston travel? Bent rod?
@lynam1002 жыл бұрын
Have you drained the oil and inspected it for metal? How about cutting open the oil filter and inspecting that? Or inspecting the screen for the vvt ocv?
@damianblazevic15187 ай бұрын
big power need bigger bearing tolerances. 2 thou mains 2.5 big ands 40w75 oil. build it like a drag motor cant go wrong
@Ahaggah2 жыл бұрын
Such good content!
@Nasonix22 жыл бұрын
Sorry to hear this!!
@lorddragoono2 жыл бұрын
K24 swap. I'm a turbo s2k owner and when my beloved f20c let's go thats what I'll be switching to. With the weight of your miata a k series would be a huge upgrade even NA for a bit.
@cedricbeck54462 жыл бұрын
Check thrust and see if there is back and fourth play in crank
@maneki9neko2 жыл бұрын
Easy job with either shims or a dial indicator to measure.
@aradarakjian52 жыл бұрын
Sounds like piston slap? ...maybe a bent rod and not a bearing .. so weird I'm just guessing hopefully none of the above
@Friendsofdonr2 жыл бұрын
Generally I see some flashy title on youtube and think... "CLICKBAIT", I see catchy title on The Car Passion Channel and think "OMG NO!!! What Happened?"
@Friendsofdonr2 жыл бұрын
My inclination is Thrust bearing failure. Can you push the crank forward or backward while the engine is installed and check for play that way?
@Nasonix22 жыл бұрын
If it does turn out to be crank walk or main bearing (which I don't think it's main bearing bcuz you didn't have a permanent drop in oil pressure afterwards, or did you) then I'm going to say the cause of either of those failures would be likely due to using ARP main studs without re-checking the main bearing clearences. The arp head studs recommend getting the mains line bored afterwards. But if you check the factory specs with OEM main studs and then make sure they're the same clearences after torquing the ARP's then you might not need a line bore.
@scottdunkirk99382 жыл бұрын
So for one, I see no oil pressure on your gauge. I am unsure if your gauge doesn't work, but I do remember that you're running a boundary pump. Which sometimes fail after thousands of miles, as that was a usual issue with them and it was luck of the draw. If the pump is good and still pumping oil everywhere.... Drain your oil check for metal shavings.... my moneys on thrust bearing if it's not an oil starved engine.
@amazinganderman40722 жыл бұрын
What did the oil look like when it was fully drained and not on the dip stick? Still sorry to see, hope it’s something simple! We’ll be watching!
@brendangallagher82922 жыл бұрын
Crank main bearing or really lucky/unlucky broke crank shaft or shattered oil pump.
@nsalcedo222 жыл бұрын
I had my timing skip a tooth once, sounded similar. I didn't tighten the belt correctly.
@martinlyons73732 жыл бұрын
Gregg what really annoys me about your videos !!! Is the sky nearly always BLUE and for 320 days in 🇬🇧 it’s Grey 🙈🙈🙈 Thank you for great videos and informative work ✌️
@dreammakergarage11332 жыл бұрын
Sorry to hear this. I know how you feel.... You will habe your baby back on tbe rd again soon brother.
@bparsons7112 жыл бұрын
Can you make a VVT actuator rebuild video?? From what I have read online, its almost impossible to service them!
@TheCarPassionChannel2 жыл бұрын
After fully disassembling mine, I don't know why people say they're impossible to put back together. And I'm not trying to sound like some kind of pro, the parts are very simple, nothing spring loaded/pre loaded, etc. I will definitely make a video on it!
@MaxSpeedMike2 жыл бұрын
5:38 you got me lol
@timkent2 жыл бұрын
I had a similar noise when my harmonic balancer failed
@midlanat5-channel2 жыл бұрын
Check the oil for glitter
@kinglouiesshed89952 жыл бұрын
Could it be the front crank bearing ? Or the fluid damper that seen better days and Is throwing the crank out of balance?
@cooperturbo45982 жыл бұрын
What about a crank bearing ? It doesn’t have to be 100% a rod bearing. Not a Mazda man but could you see the bearings if you drop the pan ?