BMWs Are Designed To Leak Oil Forever! - Adventures in E46 Oil Leak Repair

[@4192362]

My E46 is slowly returning all its base elements to the Earth, oil and metal!

[@50sKid]

Haha

[@yehornaumov5893]

Hahahahah

[@Wojtass15]

Mine is oxydizing 😂😂

[@dflex4180]

LOLLL

[@RodriguezSteve]

@@Wojtass15 SPRAY ON WAX 😆😆

[@jackprick9797]

A couple of ideas for you and your viewers. One is when replacing the RMS, you need to inspect the sealing surface on the crank. If there is any evidence of wear, then you need to install the seal at a different depth. For some engines, bmw sells a shim. The shim might by about 0.020”. You install the seal into the housing as normal, then you use the shim to knock in further into the housing by the thickness of the shim. So now your seal is ridding on fresh crank surface. As far as the housing gasket, always use a thin coat of sealant to prevent leaks and make sure you use a nice bead at the corners. Second idea for the transmission: on manual transmissions there is always a vent port at the top of the transmission. If that vent port is plugged, the transmission will not be able to “breath”. Learned this from experience. Changed several seals to finally figure this out. Good luck

[@chrisdemott6614]

Rebuild the crankcase ventilation system. If you don't have vacuum in the crankcase they will leak. Especially if the engine starts building crankcase pressure

[@pier11francesco]

You are the best! what I learn from your videos is worth millions The whole e46 community thanks you!

[@petergondolier4088]

At 18:04 you see the 2 long bolts and the 2 longer bolts. Oil will wick down those threads. Did you put Loctite 242 on them before you installed them? Silicone should be allowed to semi set for 60 minutes before torquing, so it does actually form into a gasket. In inaccessible areas or bolts enter the cooling jacket, use anaerobic type silicone that sets in the absence of air.

[@legros731]

I never let silicone set anyway if you use permatex right stuff one minute do you really think mechanic have time to wait 1 hour maybe if they charge you 120$/hour for waiting And secondly BMW alway leak they are shitty german money pit car

[@thetoughcookie3665]

@@legros731 well not really. I have like 360tkm driven 523i and M57 as 420tkm driven and both keep the groud dry of oil and not loosing it either.

[@legros731]

@@thetoughcookie3665 good for you but most of them leak sure some don't but the majority do

[@Artur-kn4te]

It's BMW guys, car made from gasket sometimes has to leak. 🤣

[@31acruz]

@@Artur-kn4te dumb self serving comment that doesn't help anybody.

[@kyleleriger43]

Man I’ve been watching you for years! Saved me a lot man! I own an 06 zhp ci. Have kept it in mint condition because of you!

[@50sKid]

Nice work!

[@tyler951]

Same here. Will have owned my 06 ZHP for 9 years in September. Only have a oil pan gasket leak for 5 years or so. I’ll get to it.. eventually but maybe I don’t want to disturb anything else. Still just a slow seep and it’s not my daily any more.

[@naomin504]

I’m a big fan of your tenacious nature. The answer is there but elusive. The oil on the starter may indicate another source? If it was me I’d seek out an old BMW master mech and buy him a jug of his choosing. Think of the joy when you nail it!!

[@joelsmind6930]

Man Jason, I been watching your videos ever since I got my E46. I'm ecstatic to see your channel back up and running! My E46 has been leaking oil from the drain plug, Im certain Jiffy Lube guys over tightened it the one time I paid someone to do my oil. SMH. Lessoned learned. I will be watching that video you have replacing the oil pan! Sincerely, Jason you have saved me a ton of money and allowed me to gain a skill. I appreciate you brotha!

[@robbiek5oh]

Put dye in the oil - it’s the only way to 100% identify leaks; I would definitively rtv grey / yamabond both sides of that metal gasket; may want to reseal the oil pan too; that joint where the rear main seal housing meets the oil pan is my guess

[@siddharthnandi8567]

as if the pool of oil all over the engine wasn't enough

[@anthonygillesse7242]

Agree with robbiek5oh dye is the secret and also agree with choice of rtv black or blue permatex good luck. You can put the die in the gearbox too. 🇨🇦

[@anthonygillesse7242]

Another thought would be the other side of the oil pan gasket , lift it up a bit and clean up with brake cleaner and rtv it carefully. PITA to do all that work again, all bmws should come with diapers🇨🇦

[@123hoffie]

Here in Australia I have used a spray sealer named " Hylomar" . Is a fantastic product which would be better than silicone especially for metal gaskets. I have reused metal gaskets over the years with no issues. I think Rolls Royce had something to do with it years ago and now licensed out. Spray on wait a few minutes til tacky then reassemble. Fantastic product

[@oregoncritter]

Jason, thanks for posting the videos, your older video helped me when I was changing the oil pan gasket on my 2007 X3. I feel your pain, as I'm always fighting oil leaks on the X3 too. I think along with the idiot lights, the next worse thing about BMWs is way oil seals are engineered. I'm going to solve my oil leaks permanently though as that X3 is now up for sale.

[@chengyang9487]

For real. Shit 😂 l.

[@peterwilson2588]

Hello and thanks for your videos which were brilliant in helping me work on my immaculate 100,000km E46 330CI. I love this car but in the end it drove me mad. Probably the finest car engine around to me - the 6 cyl BMW - but ... I was an autoelectrician then became an aircraft engineer. Did a degree in Engineering then worked on a design project in Germany. No doubt they are brilliant and dedicated engineers. But in my opinion the cars have just become too complex and material choice is definitely made with the assumption these cars will be recycled at 10 years . Plastics on engines, hoses that seep, gaskets / seals that harden and leak. It just all becomes too hard and expensive. Even the transmission shifter failed. A few cent nylon captive washer that isnt up to task failed and it was to be 700$NZ for a new shifter assy. Fortunately my friend pointed out an o-ring would do the task and last.. But finally I had to give the car its freedom! Best of luck to you as I can understand why you love the cars. And a sucessful fix is always satisfying. I have owned and maintained over 40 cars including Alfas, TR6s, Rolls Royce Wraith 2, and the BMW was the best drivers car. (Interestingly I owned a Passat V6 for a couple of years and that leaked oil onto the exhaust and even the agent was unable to fix it. ). Cheers.

[@brendenns3926]

Coming February 2022, i will he pulling my e46 engine and gearbox, i will be doing all the seals and gaskets, including rear main, i will also be doing timing guides and tensioner....and a complete clean of the motor on the outside...new engine nd gearbox mounts aswell as vacuum lines ...

[@peteyperlo4358]

Personally, the Grey 'Ultra' RTV works much better for me Vs the "Red' RTV. I do recommend following the application guide: let the RTV tack before final torqueing and also wait ~24 hours before replenishing fluids/liquids. Time is your ally in sealing an engine. My Repairing general aviation air cooled engines is a real chore - that's where I learned from an old friend/ Inspector about letting it cure and not adding fluids etc. The oil galley plug you mention earlier in Video - Did you pull that plug and re-seal the threads? Also - before Appling the any sealant/ gasket - are you thoroughly degreasing both surfaces? Also adding the leak dye helps you trace/ track the leak back to the source. There are different colored dyes: use one color in transmission and another color in the engine. Will need to get a black light and the tinted glasses. Another possible leak source (not far away) in that area: engine oil dipstick: both the 'O' rings @ the top & bottom of dipstick and possibly the CCV inlet hose into the dipstick (or a cap/plug if using a 'Catch Can' / CCV delete mod). Good luck, thanks for the Vid's and pls keep them coming!

[@jacquer3771]

I have owned 15 different bmw from e30 to e90 and not once had a oil problem in the last 30yrs. Search and repair always works.

[@nicholasmercorella5318]

Trans fluid leak is probably the seal by the fluid pump where the torque converter goes in. Have you ever installed the pressure regulator kit that compensates for the worn aluminum cylinder that the pres reg fits in to? I did new seals on a E46 ZF trans multiple times and couldn’t get it to quit leaking. 2nd time was good for a week and started again. There is a kit out there with oversized seals to compensate for the pres reg worn alum channel in the valve body. Too much pressure blowing new seals. Eventually friend who owned car just traded it in for something else. Just recently traded in daughter’s E39, still ran ok. Son still driving E53 with check engine lights for fuel trim. I can get it to clear for weeks but eventually comes back. Both over 200k and only paid $1500 for each so good starter cars for high schoolers if you know how to work on them yourself, but not worth the aggravation for a working man’s daily driver. They drive great, handle great but eventually the plastic components, M54 ring issue shoddy weather seals, etc make it a constant headache. My 2004 Town and Country had well over 200k and needed a paint job from faded finish but everything worked and ran great. Same mileage as BMW’s with 10% of the hassle. There is a lesson there.

[@thelaw2174]

There are so many things that learned because of you. If it wasn't for your Channel, I woundn't know half of what I know now about e46

[@petestuff1]

two things for you, get some oil dye put it in the oil, it will leave a bright green streak where it is leaking from you will need the correct light and glasses. second thought you need to identify for sure what is leaking, if the dye is put in the engine oil it will confirm its engine oil and not transmission. If it looks like the oils is coming from the front of the transmission, its not the from the seal as such, the part that runs in the seal is the front pump and that is a bushing that wears out, replacing just the seal works for a short time, but the answer is the dismantle the front of the transmission and remove the pump, take it to a transmission shop and get it replaced, this sound a big deal but from what i have seen you are capable of doing it.

[@50sKid]

I did do it 5 years ago. My bushing seized into the torque converter shaft and I ended up rebuilding the entire transmission. But that's not what has happened this time. I was able to remove the torque converter without issue and change the oil seal. I do believe that it might be either the oil pump o-ring or the rubber impregnated washers for the bolts that hold the oil pump in.

[@tonys4751]

The red oil is tranny oil, so it must be the TC seal or oil pump. In addition the main seal could also be leaking based on what I saw under the oil pan. I feel for you Jason. Dropping a transmission is no joke. I think you have to stop buying stuff from the junk yard or non-OE parts. Debugging a problem will always be put at risk when you don't buy genuine bmw or OE. OEM just means the company is original equipment (OE) manufacturer of a certain component on the car, not necessarily the one you are replacing.

[@legros731]

Just live with the leak it a BMW they all leak they are shitty german money pit car

[@tonys4751]

@@legros731 It's hard for anyone to disagree with this statement. It's the best ride but it comes at a painful price to maintain.

[@31acruz]

@@legros731 ignorant self serving comment that doesn't help anybody. Please leave.

[@obsessedwithcars219]

you are extremely knowledgeable and you make this look easy. many thanks to your videos as my neighbor has one of these and i am constantly working on it. with that being said my honda and nissan are 22 years old and have had no issues other than brakes and fluid changes. these bmws are insanely high maintenance

[@alanlanker606]

Jason, I can’t speak to the leak in the transmission but with regard to the rear main engine area this happened to me and it turned out that oil was seeping out the bolt threads from the pan to the rear main seal cover. Pull those bolts and coat the threads with rtv and reinstall.

[@gregswope1786]

I agree with this guy. I too did this job and had the exact same issue. Also I replaced the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket at the same time. Confused and in the same situation you’re in. I pulled the tranny. I had zero oil inside the bell housing area on the block. Except, on these two bolts and On the bottom of the bell housing. So this too is my next step I’ll be taking. Pulling those 2 long bolts. Might do all 4 long bolts. Taking these bolts out and sealing these with some kind of sealer like loctite or the black oil gasket maker by permatex. I’ll let you know how it goes. I drive a 330ci 2002 manual by the way.

[@JoseDelgado-ho1cf]

Totally understand your situation and frustration. I'm one small inconvenience from driving my E85 off a cliff

[@50sKid]

Ha, remember to jump out

[@lukecoleman1124]

So glad you're posting again man, sorry about the leaks, I know the pain.

[@joaomanuel813]

I can feel the pain in everyword u said.. and am your follower... now i feel like crying .. because my only hope i had was you..

[@50sKid]

Don't worry -- I will solve it :-)

[@joerenda300]

I watch your videos quite a bit and I want to send a thank you for all your support on our cars. This information is well done and greatly appreciated. 👍

[@FishFind3000]

The oil pan may have some type of damage from prying it off the last few times or if you have to used a screw driver to pry. Might be worth a try to take a look for any deformity and check for straightness.

[@boriss187]

Dont't get me started on oil leaks LOL. Two months ago I have assembled a completely tore-down, fully rebuilt M52 Single Vanos, much like you have done with your M54. All new gaskets, I even went a little further and applied just a smear of RTV on them, with everything spotlessly clean and degreased of course. Not even 50 miles into test drive - lo and behold, bolts around rear main seal are oily. I almost collapsed on the floor. After that I just applied a good ole' "Gutentight" torque to bolts around floor pan and refused to deal with it anymore. Doesn't help, but you're not alone. :D

[@lewispickles6402]

I recently went drifting in one of these and absolutely loved it. My daily atm is a 1.2 2009 Skoda Fabia and I think my dream car is now a BMW 330ci 3.0 Manual. I live in the UK and the manual version seems to be much rarer than the Auto version but I'm hoping to get one in the next year or two. Your videos do make me worry about getting one but at the same time, they make me hyped to get one as I can't wait to work on it on my own instead of relying on a garage! Great video.

[@CaffienatedMothman]

I have a manual. It's glorious. If you're looking for a swap, go for the 6 speed though.

[@Levent_Ergun]

I too have a 2013 Polo with the same engine in your car and I am also looking for a manual E46 lol. Sadly 325s are barely within my reach and manuals are fetching far more than I feel comfortable sinking into a 20 year old German car. Good luck to you with your search though 🤗

[@legros731]

Don't buy this shit unless you want it to become your worst nightmare lol

[@kevinbarry71]

An example of fine German engineering. I admire your tenacity but I question your judgment

[@50sKid]

My judgement on what specifically?

[@kevinbarry71]

@@50sKid putting money into a BMW, LOL

[@50sKid]

@@kevinbarry71 Tell me about it. But, think of it this way... I've made quite a bit of money off of the videos that I've made on all that work. ;-)

[@kevinbarry71]

@@50sKid I understand, and I don't blame you. And after all I do enjoy watching the videos.

[@OilBaron100]

Glad to see that you are making videos again!

[@Taz...]

I did 3 e39 M54 and M52TU oil pans and transmissions. None leaked. I used "rtv" ONLY on the specific places recommended by BMW Tis. On my personal e39 I have used a paper oil pan ( cardboard) gasket and not the metal OE. After 4 years no leaks. No "rtv" used except for a thin bead on the above mentioned places. Torqued to specific torque and using specific pattern. No thread sealer was used. Re-torqued if necessary after a couple of days or a plus 90° from initial torque. Torque is different for different grades bolts. ( 8.8 is 10Nm and 10.9 is 12Nm) Repeated the procedure on the transmission and valve cover. I use zip ties and not " rtv" to hold the gaskets in place until I screw in some bolts. No leaks after.

[@stanleyplock1181]

I started fixing oil leaks on my 2004 325i. There were several leaks, including the Timing Cover Gasket, Crankcase Seal and finally the Main Bearing Seal. I verified all of the leaks before the work was done. The Main Seal was NOT leaking 2 months ago. That's the first thing we looked at. $3,500 total and that was from a low priced mechanic that I know personally. (A dealer would have been more than twice that much.)

[@Artur-kn4te]

Great video and good to see you back. Funny that I am waiting for parts to do this exactly job. I have some little leaks from exact same place.

[@TheFatherType24]

Check your screw plugs in the rear of the head! Mine was doing the same stuff I ended up doing the VCG three times before finding with an inspection mirror a constant leak from the oil galley screw plugs . I believe it’s a 5mm Allen bolt with a crush washer. I snugger mine up and immediately cured every bit of oil. It was dripping down just like yours and also right down onto the catalytic converters and smelling like oil and smoking bad.

[@joseesquer4876]

Thanks for making videos. I have 2005 330i that bought 4 years ago with a litany of problems and been able to fix them (almost all) thanks to your videos. Right now runs very good no burning oil (engine with more than 210 k miles). Only issue so far having one code. Need to change catalytic converter. Waiting for a video . . . . .

[@50sKid]

Well my exhaust removal video is basically what you need to do that.

[@DonBMW]

Ive replaced 2 main seals on E36 and E46 BMW’s and have never had a leak. I remove the RMS cover, let the oil drain. Then clean the corners like 5 times w brake cleaner. Like you said, i first add a small bead of Aisin RTV (its all i had) to the bottom left and right corners. Then add the gasket housing. Finally I use Gasket Sealant 2 (23009) on the lower oil galley bolts. Let sit overnight. Never had an issue.

[@TheVulcan131]

We would love to see the footage about the output shaft seal. I would redo the oil pan gasket using a Elring, Victor Reinz, or Genuine BMW gasket, and use the BMW Drei Bond 1209 silicone, or Permatex The Right Stuff.

[@50sKid]

It's got a genuine bmw gasket on it now.

[@Winter1256]

I’m a BMW technician from E90’s E60’ and on let’s say from 2005 until now BMW has solved many problems with oil leaks starting from 6hp19 very good transmission very rare to see leaking one and engines as well oil leaks cases better and rare even with very high mileage cars. Im talking about Diesel engines. it’s everywhere here in Europe. Good luck my friend 👍

[@50sKid]

I've got an E90 with a 6HP19... the oil pan gasket is leaking, as they all do. :-) I hear on the B58 they finally finally changed to an RTV sealant rather than a rubber impregnated metal spacer gasket. Hopefully that finally solved the issue.

[@idahodoug1618]

One of the guys on the E46 forum posted a reference to your videos. You are amazing. So. I think its that oil gallery plug high up by the upper starter nut. Remove and properly reinstall. If you want to be sure, put some UV dye in your oil, drive, then open it up with the UV light and glasses. It will light up the trail of oil like a neon sign!

[@50sKid]

Thanks!

[@veritasaequitas9875]

I'm an old guy. Old enough to remember paper and cork gaskets. Paper and cork gaskets that never used to leak. 50 years ago. I have often though of replacing the rubber and metal gaskets with paper or cork. There are a few places I think it might work. OFHG, water pump, thermostat, DISA, intake manifold, throttle body and so on. Maybe oil pan might benefit.

[@shockmusic1]

Check bolts are tight by hand (feel). I replaced oil pan gasket, torqued bolts to correct spec (with correctly calibrated torque wrench) and got tiny leaks. Gave the bolts an extra 'half turn' and it seem to resolve issue.

[@devinsmith4151]

What tends to happen is people use impact guns to do and undo the bolts, the crankcase flexes and in training it was warned. The block warpage is measurable. For the sealent it will have to be a Loctite one, refer repair instructions. Back in the day the flange on the heads we used Loctite 574 on the N46 vacuum pump area. Drei-Bond 1209 was a cure all for most rocker cover gaskets, although on some you do not use any at all. You could have input and output shaft leaks, no RTV should be used at those places as ATF will eat it, (sometimes the torque convertor doesn't sit properly during repairs, that is worst case). Your better off removing the trans and send to a transmission factory to let them have a look.

[@ruslankostelnyi1492]

Michael Scott would be proud of your t-shirt!

[@JohnIsett]

What I did to idenitfy precisely the leaks on both my '03 M3 and '03 X5 4.6 was to thoroughly degrease and wash the engine--top to bottom--and remove the bottom sheer plate for clear viewing. After letting it dry use trouble light, mirror and patience to inspect from top to bottom for any sign of leak. Probably none found. Then start the car and inspect while it is running--you will find the leak, guaranteed. On the 4.6 it was timing case top cover gaskets, which others have diagnosed as top oil pan gaskets. BS. On M3 it was the famous Constant Pressure Valve leak which others have diagnosed as main seal leak. That was many thousands of miles ago for both. Now it's time to revisit valve cover gaskets on 4.6 (what a surprise, but it's been 50,000 mi since replaced last). I will probably replace the covers ($800) and use new gaskets, of course--and use Yamabond 4...again.

[@solmazer9805]

I learned how to fix my oil filter housing seal and oil pan gasket watching your vids! Thanks 🙌

[@superguitarstar1300]

The king has returned

[@CaffienatedMothman]

Aint they though? Finally pulled my head off minutes ago (using your videos) and the gasket is BLOWN. But so are the oil pan gasket, the cam shaft position sensor O-ring's, the dipstick tube O-ring, the valve cover gasket, the intake manifold gaskets.... Got the whole set though. Now gotta wait for the replacement heater inlet hose because THAT broke...

[@50sKid]

Doh, that sucks man. Make sure you use good quality oem gaskets! 😂

[@dazone]

part of what makes that car a real BMW is that it leaks oil.

[@jrswartzbaugh]

New pan maybe. I replaced the gasket on my valve cover three times before I realized it was the cover itself. And when I did my Vanos i had 2 gaskets stuck together so it kept leaking. Odd stuff.

[@50sKid]

Yeah, the plastic valve covers warp but the aluminum oil pans? Not so sure but maybe it’s possible!

[@jrswartzbaugh]

@@50sKid The interesting part is that the oil was higher than rear housing. Sorry you’re having this trouble.

[@munkydotorg]

It has been nothing but tracking down the cause of oil loss for years on my 2004 X3 (2.5i M54 manual). It's like every time I feel like I'm finally ahead, another one pops up. It's been a game of whack a mole. I do enjoy the periods of a few thousand miles without having to add oil though before the next comes up. I guess it is a right of passage to owning a BMW. Can't even say older. My 2015 X5 (35i N55) already needs a new valve cover at less than 82,000 miles.

[@anjingkampung]

I think thread sealer on all the bolts that come into contact with the oil would be a good idea.

[@scottjgray]

You have done an amazing job compared to my good ladys convertible e46 it looks like It barely leaks. The engine oil hers goes though is shocking and thats coming for a dude who lives in his 99 Preludes vtec am never out it. Iv got a good moter shop and the head guy has lots of experience with this era of bmw's. After doing all the obvious stuff it was still leaking and he straight up told me before hand am wasting money this wont fix it. He basically said its not worth trying to stop the leaks. Just keep putting fluid in. They all eventually end up like this, my heart sank. It seems ridiculous it must be coming from somewhere but you might never find it.

[@TheEmpowerment1]

Add uv dye to the oil and transmission fluid. There are dyes made specifically for each. Then you can trace the trail of oil that presumably slicked away from its starting point in the wind.

[@RiyadhMarthinus]

This video couldn't have come at a better time

[@s3vR3x]

Jason, you should get quickjacks!!!! You can get them to sponsor you for sure

[@50sKid]

Yeah the problem is I dunno where to put them when I'm not using them lol. Plus it takes so long to set them up, and then there's cables that connect across from one side to another which would get in the way when I'm under the car. Honestly, it only takes a minute to jack the thing up and put it on stands.

[@LivingLife128]

@@50sKid you need to get a place with a bigger garage. somewhere you can put a lift in. working on jack stands sucks .

[@50sKid]

@@LivingLife128 Yeah I wish! Prices are ridiculous right now in LA and it would actually be pretty hard to find a place with a tall garage like that. Maybe when things calm down and more inventory comes on the market, I might be able to find a place where the guy built some special garage in back to store his RV or something!

[@Octopusolamo2000]

Jason, thank you for the video. You look good! Keep up whatever you’re doing!

[@buckfutter3238]

I would try getting a FOR SALE sign, see if that solves the problem 👍

[@speralta1]

Seen it mentioned already but dye is probably the next best step. It would definitely confirm the gallery plug.

[@legros731]

Not if it the pcv valve that failed and now put a vacuum in the crankcase the oil leak will alway return if it's the real cause of the problem And most BMW got the pcv valve built in the valve cover and the only way to replace it is to change the valve cover $$$

[@betatester2560]

i used clear rtv on my car not sure but its been absolutely spot on with the valve cover i know its not the transmission pan! .. not trying to question you at all mate but maybe that rtv your using is bad or the gasket for that mater (which you literally just mentioned is indeed the problem).. I used the clear rtv after valve cover job from watching your videos and only leak was on 1 bolt of the valve cover whacked it tight with the socket wrench instantly stopped!

[@Rusty-Shackleford69]

Thank you for this video! When I did my clutch I re did everything while I had my parts torn down. I did not wait an hour after using rtv. You should be good to go with that new metal gasket. Mine has been fine for over two years now.✌ Edit: I would recommend that you confirm the oil leak is still rear main seal. If yes, replace the metal housing with one for your Vin along with new seal and gasket again and see what happens. I know this really sucks, but this is what I would do. Hope you figure it out! Be well!

[@BEAMERNOOB]

those bolts on that rear main housing need thread locker on them. also, I like to use copper spray a gasket on those metal stamped gaskets. sometimes those style gaskets wont seal unless its a machine smooth finish like mls head gasket. i noticed some scratches on the sealing surface on the block and oil will seep through those scratches. if im still having issues i like to put the smallest bead of rtv possible around the very outer side of the sealing surface on both the face and back sides of those gaskets. the black stuff works best as well ive had issues with the orange.

[@fcknhellmate]

Two months ago I finally got around to change RMS on my F10. I was holding off because ZF 8HP weights around 100kg, but it leaked so bad that I had to do it. After replacement it leaked even worse. I took it out and it was leaking on the bottom just where it meets oil pan. In my engine RMS housing has built in rubber seal, but I noticed that for some weird reason gasket has blobs outsider the housing where it meets with oil pan. This time I cut this gasket to be flush with housing, put dabs of Reinzsoil silicone and so far its leak free :)

[@stepheno9569]

Oh man that sucks... Sorry to hear it. I know it's a long shot but you asked for any clues. How's the ccv system? any chance it's clogged so the oil is busting out of the seems???

[@50sKid]

Nah it's intact, no leaks there.

[@JohnIsett]

This is why I never put a gasket on dry regardless of what "BMW" says. I use Yamabond 4 for all my gaskets--put a thin coating on a dry gasket and a little dab at the intersections and potential gaps. Be sure your Yamabond is fresh and kneed the tube before using. RTV is the worst thing you can use (IMHO). Best wishes.

[@zeroyon4562]

Yep, I always use some Threebond in addition to the gasket, and I avoid Victor Reinz as much as possible. Corteco or Elring only.

[@anjingkampung]

@@zeroyon4562 avoid Victor Reinz? Really? I thought they made good gaskets! Good to know.

[@legros731]

Use permatex rigth stuff one minute silicone it the best

[@timothyrixner]

"I'm thinking the gasket is the problem." Well, it's an e46 so... haha. Thanks for the video and for doing all you do. Awesome content and always helpful.

[@jhncvngh]

Thank you Mr Jason you make it everyday a good day for me

[@frankburn6312]

I remove the rubber on the oil pan gasket and just keep the metal part of it. Install hondabond on each side of that now became a metal spacer and send it. Did that on my M54 swapped E30 and no leak.

[@DIYTEA]

I did all the oil gaskets of the engine and,I dont have leaks now. I thing you should check the flatness of oil pan where the gasket sits first. I have also used Elring gaskets but the quality is not the best any more. You should check the gaskets very well before installing them. Before installing the oil pan gasket I had a look at its holes and their positions was not so perfect. There was a slight off set when I puted the gasket on top of the pan. I have sent the gasket back and got another one which was also not so perfect but better than the first one. Here in Germany all the Workshops are getting troubles with the quality of the spare parts nowadays. All the very famous OEM brands have quality issues. This may be the cause of your leaks because you did everything like it should be done.

[@mailpup]

Although I know you favor OEM parts, but does any aftermarket manufacturer offer an improved gasket? Sometimes an aftermarket parts maker will look at a weakness in an OEM part and try to improve on it or so they sometimes claim. I don't know, maybe not but possibly worth looking into.

[@50sKid]

Not that I know of but I’ll look into it a little further. Thanks

[@dracula293]

ive only seen that for the vanos seals and the disa o-ring

[@eDXTRe]

A company called MEYLE does offer oem and improved oem parts, called MEYLE-HD. I used meyle stabilization rods and also for my rear suspension the shock (not the coil) only the gasfiled item. Im very happy with the quality (tuv approved!) And also for a very competitive price. The oil filters are also very nice i think.

[@shawnbybee85]

I've never heard of this, not to say it isn't a thing, I always thought of aftermarket like great value items at Walmart, everything is made with the worst materials and sold for 50 cents less than the thing they are ripping off so you will think about it. There are trusted brands, but most are just trying to make a buck, not provide quality parts. That being said, what you said reminds me of rack and pinions. A remanufactured R&P is better than a new one because the new ones have O-rings sealing against housing material vs the remaned one, which that housing is bored out and a steel sleeve is inserted meaning the seal will last longer. Heard this a long time ago and do not know if this is still a thing, I would think the manufactures would just be putting sleeves in themselves, but then you would have no reason to ever need a new one, sooooooo.

[@thetoughcookie3665]

@@eDXTRe Hello. Atleast here in Finland I have heard not all Meyle products are necessarily good, but I have no experiences. I have bought Meyle HD and it's atleast pretty good quality, zero complains. Those have 4year warranty also, I think that's pretty much all what you need to know when you think how good part can be if they offer so long warranty too.

[@peterdpham]

Honestly YOU ARE GOOD BUDDY ! Sick of BMW, maybe "BMW are designed to leak oil!" Thanks for posting though

[@sixdegrees6434]

UV colorant in engine and trans. Proper steam clean everything so no trace of oil anywhere. Then I’d let it sit overnight and check with us light the next day for seepage leaks. After they’re identified, take it for a drive to find pressure leaks.

[@HailSquiddy2453]

We need the fix video you got this!

[@michaelblacktree]

That's gotta be frustrating. Maybe you could clean off the area, and let the engine idle while the car is up on ramps. Watch to see where the leak comes from.

[@jimdandy9118]

Oil leak comes standard on the car. You didn’t see it on the window sticker when new?

[@gevorggaboyan9290]

Hi, I think you need to change oil pan gasket. In my opinion it need to be changed every time when you are touching place where is the rear main seal.

[@50sKid]

Yeah could be. It’s a much easier job

[@abimmernut]

Not sue about the engine oil leak source. will need to think about that. BUT I would like to see the transmission seals video.

[@spooky204]

Every two years before the inspection remove plate, clean it and clean transmission. It drops most on the plate, no drops at the parking spot. So avoid the pain. :-)

[@kylenaidoo1082]

MaNnnnn I got the same problem on my e46 318i n46 engine, I did the rear main 3 times and the engine sump gasket twice, I even installed original bmw parts and still got a slight drip from the front section of the box and rear engine. I just gave up with it, but let us know if you find the problem

[@OneDullMan]

Since you asked, what I would do is nothing. On my 2001 320i I simply live with the leaks. None are significant enough to either show on the ground or on the back of the car. So I day - do nothing and live with the leak

[@e36fanatics]

Yeah i gave up also... I think i spent better part of this year trying to fix everything wrong with mine and now im exhausted to the point of just letting it be as it is and maybe next year ill try to do something about it

[@NGAAutoTV]

LiquiMoly has a motor oil with UV dye to help track down leaks. Might be worth trying an oil change with the UV dye oil and see if you can trace the source with a UV light.

[@thoughtslab6142]

I had similar leaking, found out was oil filter housing gasket, changed it today, will see if stops leaking...

[@FredrickII]

Brian, have you ever had a solid chunk of time where your e46 hasn’t needed a repair? Seems like this car, which I have, is a constant work in progress. I pity the poor people who bought these things thinking they were getting quality made in Germany workmanship and reliability.

[@douglasgerrard5094]

I haven’t worked on your particular engine but main seal attach bolts are drilled through into crankcase they need a thread sealer on installation. Hope that helps

[@jamesabroomeiii7552]

I would think that type of gasket the metal one you would want to put a very thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket all the way around if not it's not a seal. And if it were me I would pull that plug and go ahead and put it back in with Loctite that should be sufficient to stop any seepage and I would also go ahead and replace the O-ring on the crankshaft sensor being that you are right there and as far as the transmission fluid it almost has to be the seal around the torque converter or the O-ring around the pump in order for it to leak that much fluid but anyway keep doing you doing have a good day

[@seppmeier9961]

Yeah would also put rtv on both sides of the metal gasket

[@50sKid]

Yep I agree with everything you said and that’s what I’ve been thinking the past few days. In fact I think it is probably the oil gallery plug after all and on the transmission it might be the rubber impregnated washers on the bolts that hold the oil pump in. Thanks!

[@gsmecanica]

I would clean everything, jack up the car, and let it idle until I see where the leak comes from.

[@felixbanq3808]

yes you are right you need to put silicon on that corner and all corner every time you remove all parts of the engine reseal the oil plug gallery that happen to me oil is leaking on the oil plug at the rear of the block

[@philipe7937]

I just thought I had bad luck. My 09 X5, 06 335i, 04 z4. They all leaked oil and they were very expensive to fix. They also leaked oil way before the 100k mark. I don’t recommend teens to buy them, unless they have a lot of money to put into them for maintenance.

[@jacktharippares]

Changed my oil pan gasket twice at two different Bmw specialist shops and it is still leaking on my m54 engine. I am thinking that the aluminum might have stretched or something. Maybe that is the case with your car as well? I feel your pain though!

[@Steffystr8mobbin]

maybe the crush washers on the vanos oil line or the banjo bolt itself

[@50sKid]

The vanos lines are way on the front of the engine -- no oil leaks there, but that is a good thought!

[@Kabaselefh]

I am about to work on mine with the same leaking problems, I bought a new transmission oil pan with new seals , hope it resolves the issue.

[@rickymann66]

Did the new oil pan and gasket end the leak?

[@pathurley7895]

While I can't get mine to pass smog, there is *some* advantage to having an M52TUB instead of an M54... cuz it's dry as a bone at 21 years and 145k miles (and yeah, one new pan gasket and a new valve cover/gasket). My Audi, however... you don't know from leaks til you have a 2.0 TFSI/EA888

[@jeffkhoo106]

Try check the dipstick breather tube & the oil pan gasket....

[@benjaminwright8951]

20 year bmw tech here. I see rtv across the entire rear main seal mounting plate. When you use rtv in places its not supposed to be it will leak 100% of the time. Oil pan gasket needs to be redone. In 20 years ive never seen an m54 rear main or mounting plate leak. The trans always leaks from the selector shaft seal.

[@manarshanableh9459]

Good video as always. U need to replace the oil pan gasket again with an oem bmw parts and it will solve the problem

[@betatester2560]

me too .. so sick of it .. i am down to the point the oil filter housing and the gasket/seals for the auto box and annoying slow leak now as apposed to full scale where it will burn on the exhaust!

[@konstantintomilin1826]

Honestly I would just give up if the leak is not too bad. An old leak-free BMW just goes against the laws of universe :)

[@thetoughcookie3665]

It's not doing it from the factory either, totally fixable. We just need to figure it out

[@martymeyer4125]

Yes I want to see that seal done. Getting ready to change my tyranny filter and fluid.

[@sreng81]

I replaced my transmission pan after repeated leaks. I must have bent it a little while removing it. Use oil soluble grease on the gasket. No rtv. Leak solved.

[@chuckz28]

My E46 330xi been leaking for a while now too in the same general are so I either park in the garage with cardboard on the floor or on the street, never in the driveway. I will be pulling my transmission soon to replace due to slow to engage to drive so I'll keep an eye out for where my leak is coming from. Since there was oil in the starter housing on yours there the leak has to be from that level or higher. Maybe that pressure sensor you mentioned or the backside of the valve cover?

[@50sKid]

I wish it was the valve cover but it’s bone dry up there. Maybe I’ll take the intake manifold off to see what I see. Maybe I’ll see something I can’t see from below. Thanks!

[@henrylj2660]

It's the transmission lines and rear main seal bolts prolly just like mine I just go by the pressure car wash every now and then on the bottom

[@ste65536]

You have to try put in, a thin cord of silicon (a good brand not cheap) below each gaskets, before mount it. Many times in my BMW i solve similar problems in that way

[@ignacioromero5014]

if the Transmission aluminum housing was overheated by a Motor that sealing flange may be warped, have a machine shop check how true the total runout is on the face.