5kw Chinese diesel heater install | EP30 | Ford Transit Campervan Build |

[@deanjdk]

Very useful video, especially the bit showing the power draw across the whole heating to cooling cycle at @20:00 👌

[@rudivandoornegat2371]

One of the most elaborate and clear diesel heater install video's I've ever seen. Can't wait for the Afterburner controller install and review.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad you think so. Wanted to make a useful and informative video. I currently have the Afterburner, but yet installed it but will be soon

[@vocabswitch]

The advice about replacing the cabling to AWG10 is golden.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad it was helpful. The voltage drop, especially on lead acid system can have a impact on and cause low voltage errors when the glow plug is heating up on start up

[@vocabswitch]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I'd extended mine to go via a central switch panel so that I could power off the panel and avoid the battery drain when the van was idle (most of the time) This 1m extension introduced the issue. Anyway hope you trip up North is going well. Looking forward to latest updates.

[@SACREDTRAVELLER]

Thanks so much for making this video Alex, just found it as we're struggling to find a space for the fuel line - found this video just in time and now ordered a port and connector! xx

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your install

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

_Here are some helpful hints for your installment, by the way! Nicely done. Fuel line, just change out to a 4mm OD x 2mm ID hard nylon line; this will save you headaches down the road. Try not to attach the fuel pump directly to the frame using a passive mounting system of some sort. It will keep the ticking noise down. Plus, the hard fuel line will also transfer the noise along the line too. I used a latex rubber hose and placed the hard fuel through that, and that made a huge difference. Then using those rubber mounts for the fuel will get hard from the cold and freezing weather; and will transfer the noise too. If you try to dampen the sound from the line. I've been installing these for a while and still haven't found a rock-solid method of limiting the sound totally._

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’ve already done basically every think you’ve commented. I ditch the original fuel line of the bat originally 95% of the fuel line is 2mm hard line. The rest of the fuel like is reinforced rubber hose fuel line used at the pump for a vibration dampener. I find the ticking from the fuel pump minor inside the vehicle as I have tighten the screw holding the rubber mount only just so they touch touch but not to compress the rubber and decrease the vibration dampening effect of it

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

@@MispronouncedAdventures cool, have you cut a piece of auto sound proof foam with heat shield around the pump, it helps too. Plus side is it could protect it to. Later I’m going to view your channel videos and become a sub I like what I see in your build of your van! Cheers!

[@mountainman4410]

You can run a bit of flex tube off the air intake, run it through the hole you've already cut, and run it so it sucks air from the kick panel under your cabinets. That way it's basically recycling the air.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

That would be a more efficient way of doing it. At the moment as there are no cupboard doors building it shouldn’t make much of a difference. But it will be interesting to see once I finished the cupboards if it would become is less effective as it’s less able to intake warmer air

[@NevContractor1]

some great info on this one. Thx.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you, glad it was helpful

[@mhelander]

Good job! Watching this in my van heated by same heater, +8°C outside, +23°C inside. I'm still in progress to mount fuel pump so that its frame induced sound is lessen. Can sleep with it tho

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Hi they are definitely brilliant, been up in Scotland the last few nights where is been a bit cold outside but toasty in the van. I can usually hear the pump on start-up but not when it’s going. I just made sure when I screwed the pump Mount in I didn’t tighten it so it still plenty of absorption left in the rubber mounting

[@aberdeendeltaforce]

Loving your vlogs dude, been binge watching them, I ended up going for the autoterm planer 2kw 2d, Russian made little heater with like 100% positive feed back, cost me £450 for the full kit direct from there factory in Russia and I have to say it’s awesome, I installed a Chinese heater for my mate and only then I realised the quality difference, like the electrical wiring, and the muffler, and the PU27 controller with every setting you could wish for, the Chinese one was tack welded and the autoterm was fully welded and just much much better quality, from sealed cable connection to better engineering, I’d say it’s on par with eberspacher if not better. Totally recommend it for when your Chinese one packs in. 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Glad you’re enjoying the series I know a few people who have gone for the planer and been happy with them. With the Chinese and build quality is very dependent on which supplier you choose and can be luck of the draw for a first time buyer

[@jperzzon]

good job! must have been tricky to film underneath like that, impressive!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Absolute pain filming underneath the van! Definitely quite a few contorted positions to set up the camera correctly and try and check focus

[@kcassidy]

This is the best video I've seen so far for connecting to the auxiliary fuel port. Thank you! How low did you drop the tank in the end to be able to reach in? Did you leave it on the two bricks? Or did you drop it all the way to the ground? Did you have to disconnect the tank's hoses or anything, or were they all able to stay connected while you worked?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I lowered it the maximum amount I could before it started to pull on the filler pipe, then just stacked bricks and wood underneath it. As the fuel tank itself was almost completely empty it was extremely light, so no major stress on any connections/filler pipe. It would definitely be easier access if you disconnected all the pipes and completely dropped it but there was still enough room for access the sender unit and even enough still to get the camera in there

[@kcassidy]

@@MispronouncedAdventures super! I’ll be working on it tomorrow morning and feeling a lot more confident after watching your video! Thanks again 👍🏼

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No problem at all! If you have any questions feel free to message me on Instagram ( if you use it )

[@StevenWilcox-cm6en]

Hello I noticed that you said in your video you don't know why the diesel heater glow plug would come in after you switch it off that is the burn any old fuel out of the Chamber.

[@ourworldonwheels]

Hey Alex, came back to this after a few years 👍🏼 and apologies in advance for the long comment! I’m after a 2kw that will work with the afterburner, any advice in 2024 what brand of CDH to go for? It’s pretty hard I’m finding to find a genuine 120x120mm ish 2kw, most seem to be 5kw ‘size’ but listed as 2kw :/ I’m planning on using 2 of them at each end of the van. I’ve a sliding sealed off walk thru like yours so plan to fit one to heat the cab(drying room) and front end, and other to heat the living area/under bed garage. Many people seem to rate the lavaner pro 2kw but they’re twice the price of a cheapo!ha and not so easy to get hold of. I’ve been in touch with maxpeedingrods and said there out of 2kw due to the season ?? Long as it works with the afterburner I’ll be happy really… I’ll keep the front one with std controller as I’ll use mainly for a drying room. The rear will be using the afterburner to keep a consistent heat and on most of the time. Only reason I want both the same heaters is to allow for a quick swap if one fails👍🏼 Would appreciate any advice Cheers Ant

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Hi Ant, I was going to say the Lavaner Pro, as it’s high quality and come to far better components. And more likely to have a compatible ECU. Many of the Maxpeedingrods models are not compatible anymore. Best option would probably be to find the afterburner Facebook group and ask on there. If someone knows or recommend what 2 kW order.

[@andrewkidd2707]

Hello Alex. Is there a link to the afterburner vid you mentioned at the end. I'm about to go in on a CDH install as a complete amateur

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Not really a link as it’s not really a “product” more a project. You can see it more clearly in some of the newer diesel heater related videos on my channel. however, if you want to find more information about it, if you google “Chinese diesel heater, third-party afterburner controller or the particular Facebook group for you should find all information you require. Hope that helps

[@tobiasmenke4890]

I have a ford transit VO 2017 lwb. I wonder if it would also have the auxiliary port at the main tank?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’m not quite sure of that particular model of transit “VO”? But the Ford Transit MK8 like mine and the Ford transit custom use the same tank sender unit which all have an auxiliary fuel port so you may well be in luck.

[@tine8849]

Nice timing, this is a job I'm just about to do myself. Obsessed with watching other people tackling it until I feel I'm ready to. Is that a 2kW or 5kw one?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I have been putting it off for awhile. If I’m honest I felt it was relatively straightforward! Apologies I’ve subsequently realised I forgot to mention it’s the 5kW model. More than adequate for this size a van

[@mhelander]

@@MispronouncedAdventures mine was also solid as 2kW but it's 5kW. Got it installed march and as my van is small low top it can keep it warm in +3°C even when sliding door is wide open! Played a bit with pump min frequency and it's now good for anything below +10°C

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Seems to be the case for my understanding The mythical Chinese 2kw might not actually exist and always be a 5Kw. Not played around with many settings yet. But I think I’ve going to wait until my afterburner turns up before I start playing with bits and setting. However this week trip to Scotland it’s been fantastic so far

[@tine8849]

@@MispronouncedAdventures From the looks of it they're very rare and I suspect it's just easier to manufacture 1 and sell it as many cause I've read the 5kW gets sold as a 2, 5 & 8 KW models. Either way gotta get mine soon. I'm not in any danger of finishing my van this year but I won't even want to work in it once the biting cold hits. Plus I gotta work out the cheapest fuel to run it on.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah I believe most of the tine they’re actually all the same model and slightly tuned differently.

[@3genac]

What is the advantage of the turret mount? I've seen much more complicated installation procedures for the turret, including ones that run bolts to secure the plate through the floor; you technique is much simpler. Dumb question: using your turret mount or the crappy plate that usually comes with these heaters -- in the states anyway -- should you be able to simply unscrew the heater from the mount or plate for maintenance in just a minute or two? Is the advantage the ability to seal it from below, rather than seal it to the floor of your van where fumes could more easily escape?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’d mainly say safe for the reason of the turret mount but that in the context of what I’m doing. Which is mounting it in a thick insulated floor. If you were mounting it directly to the metal floor of the van then you wouldn’t need to use a plate at all. The seal at the bottem of the heater can seal directly on the vans metal floor. Using a turret also makes good clearance between the exhaust and any combustible floor materials. As well as effectively making the connections between the exhaust and the unit external. In my case, also made it easier to put together. Sealing from below what for to prevent fumes entering the vans floor. As many vans have ribbed metal floors and not flat ones

[@wanderingsofalanandcaz]

Was it 6mm2 that you replaced the cable with?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

4 or 6mm2 would be plenty sufficient. If you’re going for a way longer run, I would consider 6mm2

[@parentalceo]

Hey Alex where do you get the control that works on WiFi or Bluetooth that you mention in this video.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

It’s called an “Afterburner” control made by an Australian guy called Ray. There is a big Facebook group for it.

[@parentalceo]

Cool do you have a link for the group?

[@David_11111]

Yay

[@wanderingsofalanandcaz]

Did you have to drill another hole in the floor to drop the pump electric feed down to pump outside?

[@wanderingsofalanandcaz]

What solution did you come up with in the end rather than leaving it connected to the battery?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The turret mount has a small holder on the wire through for the pump

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I always keep it directly connected to my main positive busbar ( fused ) . It’s quite important that a diesel heater cannot lose connection Power went running as it could result in permanent damage so. I’d rather have it before any type of switch and breaker, and if I need to turn it off, I would pull the fuse

[@wanderingsofalanandcaz]

@@MispronouncedAdventures so connected to pos and neg Lynx power in would be fine using supplied fuse. ?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@wanderingsofalanandcaz yes

[@tomloweshow]

When routing the wire to the fuel pump did you drill another hole or route it around the turret? I’m about to install my heater on my transit and I’m trying to drill as few holes as possible

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I went for another hole in the tunnel mount. The same as the original base plate has a notch in the base plate for the wire

[@thesparky1212]

@@MispronouncedAdventures well i wish you’d shown this 🙈

[@wanderingsofalanandcaz]

⁠@@MispronouncedAdventuresNo issues with heat from the exhaust?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

@@wanderingsofalanandcaz nope, the exhaust is obviously hot to touch but doesn’t necessarily radiate much heat far

[@charleswillard775]

Cannot fully prime it from tank to front passenger seat. Got about 1m of line going across top of tank down side a bit to filter then up to pump.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I used the original line with came with my tank connector kit. I can’t remember the exact length I must of been around 2 meters. It seemed from looking at the fuel filter I had issue priming it using the priming feature on the controller. But subsequently had no issues whatsoever and it did fire on its first fire up

[@charleswillard775]

@@MispronouncedAdventures eh I'm using the original blue pipe too. Def priming to filter & bottom of pump, then only a bit from top. Works fine on a seperate tank...

[@charleswillard775]

Sorted. Pipe was getting caught on x-member section when lifting tank up. Just had to move it forward a bit so it was clear (of it).

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Good to hear! So the pipe being physically squashed preventing fuel coming through?

[@charleswillard775]

@@MispronouncedAdventures yep

[@doucet2006]

Hello, I was looking to order one diesel heater. But I am not certain about the power 2kw or 5kw. I will not travel like you in extreme could weather. Going skiing few days a year. I have one Citroën Jumper /Relay/ l4h3 the big version. I am scared that the 5kw will run on to low for good combustion. What the advice. Thanks from south France

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I would recommend the Chinese 5kW version ( if your budget extends to a 4 kW autoterm ) A 2 kW heater on a van of that size will take a long time to heat up. Whilst you are correct, running on low, can lead to sooting It doesn’t necessarily, mine usually runs on low most the time at 2000 was very clean inside

[@doucet2006]

@@MispronouncedAdventures The price difference for a 2 or 5kw chinise are nearly the same a bit more expensive for your exemple with the app. Thanks for your opinion. Wich you a good artic trip

[@glennclark762]

Just found your videos and they are great, Which one of your Victron devices was showing the current being used or was this an extra add-on I missed

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Hey, glad you are enjoying them. That’s the app interface for the Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor. It was installed awhile ago in a different position in the van which was episode EP26

[@ezza88ster]

Note to self: Avoid 'Erbauer' holesaws...

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I would say in this case it’s probably down to user error ( I’m being an idiot ) I was going way too fast. Far slower revolutions is how they’re meant to be used and they cut through a lot easier, but obviously with a extremely large holesaw piece it’s quite difficult to apply pressure at low revolutions

[@ezza88ster]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Fair enough. I think Erbauer is Screwfix own brand isn't it? And tbh I have found most Erbauer stuff to be ok. Also do you find the heater diesel pump noise a problem?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

You can hear it but I don’t really find it too much of an annoying personally. I have got it mounted in the factory rubber mount, which is in mounted on a long bracket and then that’s mounted to the vehicle. So that’s probably dampening it to a degree more than people who mounted directly to the van

[@charleswillard775]

@MispronouncedAdventures did you undo the breather pipe when you lowered the tank?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Lucky I didn’t need too, there was enough slack in the pipe for me to drop the tank enough to access the sender unit but I did keep the tank standing on bricks and wood so it wasn’t fully dropped on the floor. Any lower and I would of had to disconnect it.

[@charleswillard775]

​@@MispronouncedAdventures Great! Not enough on my mk7 i didn't think so will try again tomorrow with renewed optimism.

[@charleswillard775]

Done it, just had to go round the other side

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Congrats on getting it done! Access to the sender unit definitely isn’t easy!

[@thegabormate]

Hi, great job, congrats! I wonder if you happen to know wether Afterburner would be compatible with a 24V heater? I can't really see a reason why it would not but I didn't get any reply from the chap down under and I am getting desperate to buy the heater as we hit 10C today. Many thanks, keep up the work.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

As far as I’m aware they work with 24v heater version ( as long as it still has one of the compatible controllers) in the manual I can’t find any reference to it’s saying it works with 24v but at the same time it doesn’t says it only 12v. I did find however find references in the manual about adjusting the low voltage cut off for 12v & 24v.

[@thegabormate]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Excellent stuff, really appreciated, thanks. How long did it take to get the unit and which one did you buy?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

About 13 days from ordering till arrival. Which isn’t bad considering it came from the other side of the world and it’s considered non-priority mail due to pandemic. I went for the “Full GPIO + BME280” model as it wasn’t that much more and I plan to have a play with a few different things, particularly getting my Alexa to be able to control it. Also Black case with white buttons as I liked the look!

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’m currently away on a short wee test trip in the van, I haven’t opened it yet but I know it’s been delivered

[@DefinitelySpudinhio]

Hi did you install a different controller for the heater . I dont suppose you have a link for it . Cheers Nice van build by the way 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The one in the video is original Controller for the heater, however at the end of the video I refer to install a afterburner controller in the future. I have subsequently installed that and it’s brilliant. More information can be found here in it afterburner.mrjones.id.au

[@Scamdemic]

Just a minute into the video and wondering what the reason you're fitting a diesel heater is, after having bought the truma boiler? New to all of this, looking into my first potential build so may be missing something obvious. Cheers.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I don’t have a truma boiler. Always had just the diesel heater for my hot air heating and my hot water ( via the Bobilvans hot water heater

[@Scamdemic]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Apologies, I've been watching that many videos that I've got mixed up by the looks of it. Just working my way through yours which are spot on, and I could have sworn you'd mentioned one in an earlier vid. My mistake. Cheers mate.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No worries at all, enjoy the series

[@Scamdemic]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Will do cheers! (I just found the truma video I thought was yours, doesn't help staying up till silly 'o' clock watching all these haha). Props to you for doing a lot without another pair of helping hands as well.

[@markchurchward482]

Loving the black wheels are they powder coated or new alloys. 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thank you very much, they are original Ford transit alloy which came with the van. My brother and I painted them black over the weekend. washed, Light hand Sanding with 300 grit, cleaned with methylated spirits ( remove dust and any contaminants ), two coats of acid etch spray can primer, 2 coats of black alloy wheel spray paint. no top coat lacquer as I will likely scratch them at somepoint, so easy just to Touch up with the remaining spray can paint, if I used a top lacquer I would have to repaint the whole alloy to get it to match again

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Super cheap as well! just two spray cans of each paint and ordered off Amazon

[@craigofyorkshire3397]

Is this a problem where you have put a hole in the floor? Is it not 30 cm from a suspension mount so will it be a problem going through an mot?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I have seen this mention before. I’ve had no issues with the MOT. When I’ve been people commenting on this subject online and it seems if the hole is unintentional such as rust or corrosion. 30 cm of the chassis members is the problem, not purposely made holes in it. Which makes sense to me as the sheet metal part of the van’s flooring there is no structural significance

[@craigofyorkshire3397]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I see, that makes sense. I'm just contemplating where to put mine on my ford transit, didn't know if it would interfere with the mot. Thanks for replying

[@DM-kh5mv]

Thanks for the video. What battery monitoring module are you using?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

The blue coloured app I’m using at the end? That’s a Victron BMW-712 battery monitor. Brilliant bit of kit

[@chriscameron5873]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Hi, Is that the same as the Victron smart shunt? Do they do the same thing?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

This is the Victron BMW-712. Very similar to the Victron Smart shunt. But the smart shunt doesn’t have the physical display with the relay built-in. I particular needed to relay as I use it as a safety feature for the lithium batteries for a low temperature charge cut off

[@intransit2822]

Hi buddy, was the fuel line pick up you got the model 292180010432? The fuel tank sender standpipe kit? My heater has arrived and was going to get Ford to fit aux connection to fuel tank but seems straightforward enough. Cheers and thanks for sharing the install.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

InTransit hey, I got it’s from butlertechnik.com and they list it as “Eberspacher Ford Transit Mercedes Vito Fuel Tank Pick up | E7193 | 292199017193” presuming the same sender unit ( and aux Port ) is used on a few different van models.

[@intransit2822]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Much appreciated. Will get one ordered and run down the fuel in the van as still pretty full from our europe trip. Cheers 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Great. As you can see it’s pretty each to fit. A bit time-consuming lowering the tank and accessing it but fitting it is as you saw. The tank is only four bolts, and when it is almost empty it’s very light, realistically the Jack probably wasn’t needed but does make life easier.

[@intransit2822]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Really enjoying watching your van van build and getting ideas... Ford made it sound like a lot of work when I spoke to them. You made it seem really easy 👍 Cheers 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Thanks! Plenty more interesting things to build and come!

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

Sorry if I missed something obvious in the video, but how did you get the power feed down to the pump for the diesel heater - is there a hole for it in the large round manifold? Did you have a link for that manifold too please?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Oh no, you are right it’s not in the video, I filmed it as well! Basically the original mounting plate as I slot in it so you can run the pump wire though as well next to the air intake. My turret mount didn’t have one so I drilled and cut the slot in myself. Apologies not sure how that got missed out. I’ll see if I can add a caption to the video

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

This is were I got my turret mount. I went for the 65mm as my floor is 18mm ply + 25mm batons/insulation and then the metal van ribs are about 12mm. Which is 55mm in total. Added a little extra so I can get a good seal with sealant. The eBay seller has a few different size options www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402391007781

[@theonlywoody2shoes]

No problem, and thanks for clarifying how you routed the fuel pump cable. I wasn’t sure if there was sufficient room to cut the plate (as you did) or if you routed it between the turret fitting and the hole you cut in the floor - I’m also guessing the plate doesn’t get too hot so you can fit a grommet or something to stop the chaffing risk. Thanks also for the link. 👍

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Aye used a grommets and put the hole on the cold air intake side away from the exhaust, but generally the turret mount shouldn’t get hot as there is a large air gap the reason for the size of it from the walls of the turret to the exhaust pipe

[@chriscameron5873]

Good vid, don't suppose you know if the transit custom has a similar fuel tank sender unit? I am thinking of doing the same. I have also read some people getting an additional exterior vent and using external air to draw into the heater (rather than recirculating the van air) to help with condensation, any opinion?

[@chriscameron5873]

Also how did you end up stopping the draw on your battery, did you install some form of cut off device when your battery gets down to a certain level? I was thinking of also installing a switch on the heater so I could disconnect it totally once the cool down process had completed?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I’d imagine they probably do have the same sender unit. If you use the link in the description to the connection kit it says a few different models which it works for. I don’t think using external air would be an efficient idea. As the heater is going to heat up the vehicle internal air a lot faster as it’s intended to do so. I see the principle behind the condensation idea but I would think the opposite would happen. Since your recycling cabin air, you have control over the moisture content of the air being used. And since warmer holds far more moisture content than colder air with ventilation in the vehicle anyway it makes it far easier for you to remove existing moist air from the van. I have a humidity sensor in the van. When I’ve left the van overnight and not had the heating on I can often see at this moment in time. The outside humidity is 99%, whilst inside the van could be 60-70, once I Turn the heater on that internal humidity drops down to mid 30s over time. If you are using outside air you be continually bringing cold new 99% humidity are opposed to recycling gradually decreasing humidity air from inside ( gradually decreasing as ventilation is help pulling out that warmed up moist air )

[@chriscameron5873]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Yeah, I was thinking something similar, I would think in instances that you might switch to external air intake, weather wise it would probably be dry and warm, so less likely to have the heater on in the first place. Did you get the afterburner? I noticed on the link that they do not ship to the UK? If you have it, how have you found it?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I think definitely using internal care for them as they’re designed for is the best option. Also completely eliminate the risk of sucking in any exhaust gases as well. The Afterburner is brilliant! Had installed installed for a few weeks. Incredible how much of a difference it makes to the heater, being able to maintain perfectly cabin temperature with its linear Hz thermostat mode, Plus all the useful new features. But you are correct as of January 1 Ray no longer ships into the UK.

[@chriscameron5873]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Shame the afterburner isnt available here. I might get him to ship me one to my Brothers place in Oz and get him to send it on to me. One further question, where did you feed the power cable for your fuel pump out of the van?

[@Cozzy-fs1mc]

Have you got a link to the after burner controller video please you were going to out on ? Cheers

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

www.mrjones.id.au/afterburner/ Here is a link to the website. However you can’t just order one as such. You have to either email Ray directly or the way I did was by joining the 3000+ members facebook group and messaging Ray directly on their that you would like to purchase one. He then go through which model you want and to make sure that your heaters get compatible with them.

[@Cozzy-fs1mc]

Mispronounced Adventures thanks ... how much are they ? The timer function would be fantastic

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I went for the top spec model + shipping from Australia to the UK worked out at £93. Arguably more than the price of the heater. But worth all of the extra functionality. I’m going to be making a video for that as well

[@constructioneerful]

I saw a separate diesel tank installed for the heater, by a UK couple, to take advantage of the cheaper red diesel in UK. Were you tempted?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

I thought about but overall wasn’t too bothered and my heater also ships with 15L tank. I prefer the idea of the convenience of one fuel & one tank over all. Than the 60p ish saving per litre. Plus I would then need to find another space to store a tank either in or under the van

[@life.is.to.short1414]

That exhaust plate is different in a video I was watching.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Exhaust plate? I’m not sure what you mean? Many companies do produce this type of diesel heater. But there can be differences between the kits, there are Number of different controller, A couple models of exhaust muffler and so on

[@life.is.to.short1414]

@@MispronouncedAdventures all the video.i been watching had the same one but watched yours it was like the western heater plate..

[@tine8849]

You've mounted the pump outside but how did you get the wiring to it? Is it going through the turret?

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

No sure what you mean by upside down? The start of the video the pump was in the wrong angle of orientation but mentioned and corrected in the later part. Generally it needs to be mounted in the horizontal position at a 15 to 30° angle with the outlet of the pump is the higher part

[@tine8849]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Hiya mate didn't mention anything about it being upside down. I'm wondering about mounting the pump outside the van instead of my original plan on having it right next to the plastic fuel tank near my rear doors. I'm curious about how you got the electrical cable from the heater to the dosing pump underneath.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Oh so sorry. It’s been such a long my day selling Christmas trees here. I completely miss read it

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Definitely variety of mount options . The pumps can definitely be mounted externally as they use AMP super seal waterproof connector. However it will probably decrease the pumps I’ve spent. Having it there for a few weeks not it in a pretty sheltered spot. Not much dirt or moisture on it. I also don’t seeing an issue with it being inside for a internal tank

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

As for your original question. The original amount provided has a slot cutting it for the fuel wires pumps. The turret mount didn’t, I added one with a drill and jigsaw. For some reason the footage got missed out

[@marks-0-0]

Nice install Alex. Have you got a link for the heater you bought as there are so many online? Thanks

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Sure. My thinking behind which ones of the many was the eBay selling with the most unit sold and highest rating www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153147548894

[@marks-0-0]

@@MispronouncedAdventures I like yours because it has that tunnel on the base plate, that makes alot of sense. I've got one without the tunnel but I was thinking about refitting it in a different way so I might buy a new kit while I'm at it. Thanks again.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah I felt in this case as the diesel heater had to go through about 60mm of combustible materials of a floor that it would be quite important to isolate the hot parts from it.

[@hikerdoc6771]

Your exhaust pipe is too long and too many bends. These heaters are sensitive to this. See the brilliant videos by (I think his channel is) John Mac, an Aussie who serviced Ebersoacher diesel heaters for many years - he gives great advice and instruction. Also your pump is too near the horizontal. You will get cavitation bubbles remaining in your pump. Your system will still work, but it will be inefficient and more likely to fail years before it should. I think your videos are great and your are a determined and intelligent young man, but you haven't quite got this installation right and your followers need to avoid making the mistakes you have made. The best thing you and your followers can do is watch John Mac's videos. They helped me - I installed my diesel heater this week. All the best to you - I hope you don't take any offence from me pointing these issues out - no offence intended - I just want people to know how to do this the right way.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Hi, thanks for comment, no offence taken at all. Interesting you should say the exhaust is too long, it’s currently total length of 110cm. 60cm pre muffler, 50cm post muffler. All the recommended information for exhaust length seems to say 200cm max, same for the angle. Max recommended bends information I love seen were to add up to no more than 270 degrees in total which I’d openly admit I’m probably at, but I had done my best to keep the bend on a large radius to at least have better air flow then tight ones. But I do get the General gist of it which is less bends & length is the better. For me I think I have the best option for the size available. I didn’t want to run the exhaust directly down from the heater as that would be the same chassis area as the heaters airing take Odd that the pump looks horizontal for you, the might be my under want camera work max Pump angle recommendations seems to be between 15-30 degrees and that’s what i was aiming for and I’d say might be probably nearer the 30-35. I can easily be adjusted, I’ll have a look at it in the morning. I have seen a number of John videos they are rather good.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Having just rewatch parts of the later bit of the video and can see what you mean about the pump, it’s looks almost horizontal in some shots! Reality its not I promise! I suspect that’s a side-effect of using a super-wide angle 16mm lens close up under the van. It’s stretches things out

[@hikerdoc6771]

@@MispronouncedAdventures yep, you're on the ball with your research and understanding. You've probably got it fitted within the recommended specifications, but it's close. I was going to try to put my pump in a sealed WISKA junction box, but I couldn't get it to fit anywhere. I'm concerned about the electrical junction at the top of the pump housing and it's exposure to water spray, salt and dirt. I managed to fit it into a box section of the chassis, so at least it has some protection. I kept the original 2mm diameter rigid plastic fuel line. "Upgrading" to a larger bore, or less rigid plastic results in inefficient fuel delivery. John McK explains this in a video. I think your Halfords is small bore rigid plastic? If so, it should be ok. I have a fairly sharpish bend in my exhaust pipe to run it along close under the chassis. I didn't want to leave it dangling low and exposed to trauma. Its only a short run, with no pipe after the muffler (which is straight internal, not a kinked baffle one) so I think it will be fine. It seems to work well in my tests so far. I had to smile when you said you didn't want to drill holes in your chassis - having just drilled a 127mm dia hole through the floor! I didn't go down this route, but used the supplied mounting plate instead and it seems to be fine, sealed with a high temp resistant sealing compound. I drilled a couple of holes in the chassis to mount the pump and exhaust muffler securely, but I use a cotton bud and a liberal amount of Hammerite before I affix. I enjoy your videos. They are very informative.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah I replaced all of the original fuel line that green flexi stuff it comes with. 90% of the fuel line now is the thin hard plastic type which came with the Eberspacher Ford transit tank connector kit. The final 20cm ish of the fuel line is the fuel line I got from Halfords. Which I’d say has a larger bore than the blue hard plastic pipe and slightly smaller bore than the original Chinese diesel heater green fuel line. I be honest I wasnt sure of the effects of changing The bore on the fuel line. But since Eberspacher use a smaller bore in part of there kit and my Halfords was larger than that it would be reasonable to think it should be okay. A couple weeks in and it still seems to be functioning fine. As for pump protection. I’m reasonably confident of its location. I had been playing around with waterproof automotive Tyco connector recently making a battery Communications cable. So looking at the connector the pump had similar waterproofing I was confident on that being ok. As for the actual body of the pump, I have been thinking about of pink soft sound dampening cases I’ve seen a few times online. They ticking noise from it doesn’t particularly bother me that much and it’s not too bad but I’d like a bit more protection on the pump.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Yeah i definitely wasn’t a fan of drilling a massive hole! I’ve had to drill some more recently plumbing in the grey water tank. And once again making a mess with sealant

[@samgoodland1443]

Death trap on a nice van. Shame

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Don’t fit one then, feel free to choose autoterm, webasto, eberspacher.

[@samgoodland1443]

@@MispronouncedAdventures Sorry to be a negative comment in the sea of spastics below but these heaters are plain dangerous. It will take a poor family to get carbon monoxide poisoning to get these things looked at. All I ask is that you do your research before buying a combustion driven tool and not risk others and your own life by fitting these.

[@MispronouncedAdventures]

Please consider not making fun with other commenters by using the word spastic, there neither fair to commenters or people with cerebral palsy. I’d disagree they are “plain dangerous”. Issues with carbon monoxide poisoning from these heater is normally from poor user install over unit defect. Issues with there gasket are very rare. I’m not going to disagree to units can fail and do. Unlikely to be a issue endangering the user life, just failure of the unit to function. But I can see we are no going to agree.

[@samgoodland1443]

@@MispronouncedAdventures apologies to all those effected. I meant misinformed ones. But to those who still think Chinese heaters are a good idea, I think that term is accurate