Cheap Chinese Diesel Heater Tips - Camper Van Heating Installation

[@thefeet]

Another tip, a well-seasoned mechanic who has installed many Espar and Webasto units over the years looked at my installation and advised me to, YES, keep the PUMP mounted at a 45-degree angle but the filter should always be mounted horizontally. The reason being is that the filter, when new, will always have a bit of air in it in the top half when mounted horizontally and over time, as it starts to clog up, you can easily tell if you need a new filter when you see that the filter is FULL of fuel. (restricted flow) I have no reason to doubt this man as he has been using these things for decades on his fleet of trucks and has been both a certified automotive and heavy-duty mechanic for more than 45 years.

[@kst357]

Extra installation tips: The air intake pipe and the exhaust pipe/muffler should be mounted at a downward angle to allow water & condensation to drain. If your heater didn't come with a silencer for the air intake, there are upgraded silencers & mufflers you can buy to reduce the noise they make. The exhaust & intake pipes should go in opposing directions so that exhaust fumes don't get sucked into the intake pipe. The exhaust pipe should be pointed toward the closet edge of the undercarriage so that the fumes won't accumulate under the vehicle. If the noise of the heater disturbs you then mount the heater as far away from your sleeping area as practical. They sell quieter fuel pumps as an upgrade but their clicking is still audible. A piece of foam, preferably egg crate foam, can be wrapped around the pump to help muffle the clicking noise. Mounting the pump with a soft mount like on a rubber hanger helps to reduce the vibration when the pump diaphragm starts pumping.

[@tommilka2287]

he knows that

[@jagobouffler6206]

Intake and exhaust should both be pointing backwards. The ends only need to be 200mm apart at minimum

[@HappySoulTraveler]

You are awesome! This was definitely the best pro tip video I've seen for these Chinese heaters. Concise, straight to the point, great video and music and no senseless chatter, which makes your videos very interesting to watch!

[@HughTube]

cheers matey!

[@Shipfixer]

Excellent information and advice. Very clear. I've been using these heaters for quite a while now. I've had one in my RV for two years and it still runs like new. Your advice about proper fuel line is dead on. It's not so critical for the line running up to the filter and pump, but from pump to heater you must use the 0.2 cm (id) tubing. It's hard for a reason. The soft rubber hose absorbs the pump's metering pulse. It doesn't allow a full pulse with soft hose. Don't know why they send this stuff with many heaters. Kind thanks for taking time to explain these things. You are helping many folks. Instant LIKE and SUBSCIBE! Greetings from Alaska.

[@HughTube]

cheers! and greeting from the UK

[@gnomiedan5424]

I'm in wasilla Ak about to install mine any tips and tricks I should know

[@Shipfixer]

@@gnomiedan5424 As for information, there's tons of it here on KZbin. You'll get it figured out. Just don't take any shortcuts. Install it correctly. Find a way to prime it before just hitting the start button. If done correctly you'll have a good heat source and cheap too! Good luck.

[@batz910]

For the intake tubing, I would recommend SCAT tubing. Comes in all sizes. Used a lot in aviation, boats, and high performance cars. High temp resistant, durable, flexible, and won't collapse.

[@DelCorbin]

I have an observation to make concerning the use of a hard fuel line between the pump and the heater. It seems a soft fuel line like automotive fuel line would serve somewhat as a bladder that would reduce the number of times the pump 'clicks' and also take some shock out of the system. A pump 'clicking' into a solid plumbing system is going to see a rapid rate of pressure increase so the pump likely would pump less each 'click'. Another point: It seems drawing some of all of the combustion air for the heater from the living space would be handy for moisture reduction. I doubt that many campers are so air tight that the heater would be starved but if starving were a problem ventilation openings could easily be added. Nice job on the video and install. Thanks.

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

_Nice vlog with tips; I'm keeping this one to pass along to others who want to install their own. When it comes to these fuel tanks that come in the kits. There two main things that people miss. First is the tank itself. That little square foot is to give the tank a slight tilt for either way. Not to place the fuel nipple into. Although you can, as many do. Now, secondly, the lid, if you look under it pull these apart, you can put the fuel line through the top and into the next piece, pull the rubber from the clear piece. For installment into any camper, van, or trailer inside, you really want your fuel to feed your heater from the top, NOT under the fuel tank. Here the kicker, then you can use anything that holds diesel fuel for your needs. I just got done using 2 stainless steel jug for a fuel tank for a customer. Or you can use regular fuel can. If it ever goes bad, you just lift the whole line out and drop into a new tank in 10 sec. Those tanks for the kits can and will split right at the seams; I've changed out like five of them already for people and have always replaced with some type of top-down fuel line system with a replacement tank of some sort for the customers. When it comes to the pump, you can take all the air bubbles out caused by the piston's cavitation. You have to use a hand-operated vacuum pump. Once you prime to the pump with a hand-operated vacuum; connect the fuel line to the pump; a pump for a minute, add a foot foot-long, and a hand pump to add a strong vacuum and draw out the air. Once that done, you can run your line to the heater and prime until you get to the heater, pump out the fuel for a sec, then make the final connection to the heater. At that point, you can have the pump at 0° through 90° as long as you don't run it out of fuel from the tank. My own fuel line from the tank to pump is 2'; from the pump is 15' to the heater. A total of 17' with no air bubbles. My own build is the longest fuel line run to this day. Have also started to use 4mm air/ oil push-to-connector within the fuel systems, too, with no issues._

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

@@rustysummers3217, I was talking about the caps that come with these tanks in the kits. Yes, I use a regular 2 1/2 gallon regular fuel container for my own tank. My thinking was if I ever needed to replace the fuel container. I could go anywhere, even a 7-11 store, for a quick fix. I drilled a hole in the blank that kept fuel in and ran the line into it with the kits' metal nipple. But did use a different inline fuel filter, 1/4 ZYTC clear plastic glass inline filter close to the metal nipple. Right now, those seem to work fine, and I got them off of Amazon. Ten for 10 bucks, I think. You also need to make sure all the air is out of those filters too. I agree with you. I would NOT have any tank inside; you're right, just in case, the fuel would never get out the smell out, no matter how you clean it.

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

@@rustysummers3217, I'm not sure how long of a line you can have before the pump. I know what the manual has said, but I would think a good 5 meter before. Thanks, I'll set up a test this weekend to find out how long before the pump can't handle the draw in the back shop too. I have set up a couple of pumps and lines to test out more ways to keep the pumps and fuel lines' noise down to a bare minimum or cut out the noise completely. I let you know how it goes.

[@amandagoulart2272]

Also thank you Hugh for this very informative video, to us rookies who are teaching ourselves, it means the world to have this broken down and explained as simply as possible with the experience behind recommending what to use and what not to use. Greatly appreciated this video

[@seboo123]

I own a Relay (or Jumper as it is called in rest of Europe) and I can confirm that the hatch for the diesel tank is just the same🙂

[@lancesmith452]

Hi , great video. Just a tip for priming I used a spray pump from my wife's "Spray & wipe" bottle, the tube is the same size as the fuel line, so its just a matter of sliding it into the outer tube at the filter, it only takes a few seconds and it's done. Just be Shaw you put it back before the wife sees it's missing.

[@HughTube]

haha and also clean out the diesel im guessing

[@frank88ster]

Ya,...feel U there,😜dats like dangerous territory man, Ur a brave on...lol!!

[@gasgas2689]

@@HughTube Nah, Didn't you know that Diesel is an expensive make of ladies perfume? I love it, its better than petrol, which has a habit of evaporating away.

[@13yearsaprepperr.jtilbury.51]

I use the soft Fuel pipe have done for 6 years i have 3 heaters , The hard pipe makes click click noise , the soft pipe nice and quiet , the fuel pulse has no dramas with the soft pipe at all Rob NSW Australia

[@icsp2]

I agree, that's what makes them so noisy. The fuel line does not affect the pulse at all as the pulse is controlled by electronics activating the pump. The hard plastic line resonates the noise making it even worse.

[@stephenmason5682]

Im a Newby about to select and buy a unit. You video is first class and helpful. You ention things I don't even know about, so couldn't consider? Great work!

[@Paul-pb3vq]

I've got three of these. I swapped out virtually all the fittings including fuel tanks. I used a hydroponics 15ltr top fill and top outlet tank, they are fully chemical and solvent resistant. so no fear of leaking from bottom fittings. I agree that the hose clips supplied are not very good quality. And I use proper diesel fuel line with the braided outer covering. I love them super heat output. Cheap spares as well. PS good video for beginners.

[@HughTube]

Thanks Paul! couldn't agree more you basically get a super cheap webasto with bag accessories. change up the extra parts and you're laughing

[@johnparsons5413]

I am considering one of these heaters and have been watching several how to install vids. Another tip is to be able to turn off the display unit when not in use, the read out seems to fade quite soon. Easy to buy and replace but just another cost. Hope this helps out. Thank you for a informative video.

[@catvando3209]

On my heater I used a reinforced silicone pipe with a engine oil breather filter on the end and that helps a little in reducing the intake noise. The exhaust I used the fiberglass heat tape on it just as a precaution. The only other thing I did with mine is to reduce the top speed of the fans by a small amount to reduce vibration noise and it's now lovely and quite (for a diesel heater) and the van is toasty warm.

[@RossTallo]

How to reduce the fan speed mate?

[@catvando3209]

@@RossTallo press the settings button and then ok a couple of times until you find a set of - - - - then key in 1688. Its done on the up down buttons to select each number then ok to go to next number. After that pressing ok until you reach a low number i think off my head its 1.65hz that is the low pump speed the next one after pressing ok is the high speed of the pump that on mine i reduced by pressing the up/down button to set it at a lower number. Again its in Hertz 5.85hz example. After that after ok the next is low speed fans and high speed fans and by reducing the high speed fans by a small amount (800rpm) it stopped it howling like a banshee on start up. If you still struggle find me on Instagram and I will go through it with you on a video chat. Instagram or Facebook.

[@RossTallo]

@@catvando3209 some man, cheers Stephen! Will definitely have a go at this when I get mine 👍🏻

[@mistermusic140]

My diesel heater came with two mufflers, one for the intake and one for the exhaust.

[@hsgjkhagljkh]

Your video is fantastic, Hugh. The diagram made me smile. Thank you for putting in so much work to make the video. It is EXTREMELY HELPFUL.

[@HughTube]

Thanks April!

[@SC-cp3gq]

OK so I am waiting for mine to arrive (went for an all in one unit). I thought id get it early on so I can dry out my convoy properly before doing all the prelim work and insulating. Had always though I would go with a woodburner but an experienced mate extolled the virtues of the diesel heater. Slightly beginning to wish I hadn't as I am now going down the KZbin rabbit hole with this stuff! However, thanks for this video Hugh, and thanks to all those giving great insights in the comments! S.

[@HughTube]

haha the YT rabbit hole can be a dangerous peril! Good luck with it all

[@wallacegrommet9343]

All of your tips are essentials for reliable performance

[@grahamhubsch9610]

Tx bro for all your good advice 🙏 God bless you. 🙌 Much love from South Africa 🇿🇦

[@HughTube]

cheers dude! appreciate it!

[@eddvanlife7396]

Some great tips high for those people installing this heater.

[@andrewpeak1124]

Great video. I’ve got both relay and a boxer and can confirm that he Relay is the same set up with easy access to the top of the tank

[@Melonator2456]

So I used the soft line that you said not to use... And I noticed today that the line had micro cracks all the way up it after some moderate use... I installed it about 5 months ago. So yeah time to get the nylon one and change them over

[@GypsyHunter232UK]

Excellent advice regarding the nylon pipe instead of thr green soft pipe and pushing it home fully so it touched the end of the pump pipe also good 👍 info of the crap jubilee chinese clips

[@freakyflow]

fuel may cause stripping of certain types of hose, gradually perforating the fuel hose Make sure to use the rated hose for Diesel And prevent a cause of fire

[@kayeldee1]

Thx I was wondering why.

[@Melonator2456]

Yeah I used the soft tube that came with my kit and it did this

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

That is the main problem with the green supply hose that comes in SOME diesel air heater kits. It is suitable for aquariums...maybe. Your local auto supply store can provide the proper fuel-rated line and fittings (if needed) to get you up and running. Take the green line in with you to purchase the good stuff.

[@campingroadtrips]

@@geraldhenrickson7472 does anyone have a link to what tube i should buy please? thank you

[@fionndebuitlear6407]

@@campingroadtrips any idea how to find this hose? thanks

[@exploringavenues2269]

My tip is to not use the rubber gasket that goes next to the exhaust outlet. Mine was heating up and burning, giving off burnt rubber fumes. I took it off and used fire resistant sealant instead.

[@mingueyox]

What sealant would you recommend? I found VITCAS Heat Resistant SILICONE (300°c) of VITCAS Heat Resistant Sealant Sealant (1300 °C).I have no clue about these products

[@exploringavenues2269]

@@mingueyox I am pretty sure it was the one called firemate that I used but I wouldn't know if it is the best one. I have a carbon monoxide tester in the van and it hasn't gone off having used the heater a few times in the last 2 months.

[@mingueyox]

@@exploringavenues2269 Great. Thank you you for your feedback 👍

[@IW4DBX]

Be sure to leave enough room around the exhaust pipe to avoid overheat the layers around it

[@dennis.teevee]

nice tip, i was going to leave mine on!

[@lastadventurer1]

Just installed in my 92 Defender 110. Used 7/8” inner diameter rubber drain hose to extend the air intake 8 feet to a high location in the engine compartment away from water. I’ve got it tied back and away from the hot parts of the engine. It may not last forever but so far so good!

[@dayneditiont5.163]

I bought one of these heaters so this is a great video for me. The only thing I think you need change if using the t5s own tank is the pick up pipe. The one that comes in the kit,the nut is to big and doesn't fit on the sender. I got the proper one for about £12 I think.

[@HughTube]

yeah I have bought a few of the much slimmer erberspacher ones

[@RichardOutdoors]

If you're going to recommend alternatives, it would help if you were specific. 'You need this, sort of, hard nylon stuff' is no good. We need specs.

[@petethewrist]

Good video it is good to have these points given verbally, but one point a good inline switch is great and needed if you leave fire not used for long time. But switch must be safe and never used to turn fire off.

[@RossTallo]

Good idea...For the fuel line or electric my friend?

[@irishrover63]

I just got my heater installed at the garage I use who also convert camper vans. My fuel comes directly from the van tank, but that pick up pipe in the kit is not required. Instead the fuel line is spliced using a "T" piece. I also purchased a mounting plate with 65mm turret so only one 125mm diameter hole needs cut on the floor, my heater is mounted under the drivers seat and I have a 2kw heater which is adequite. You are correct about that green tubing, the minute he saw that he said you will need some descent fuel grade tubing. I wired mine into my fuse box even though it has a 15A inline fuse. I don't want the display runing constantly and when my van is parked up and not in use I use the power isolation switch mounted beside my leisure battery to power off. I found it strange that 5kw heaters are cheaper than 2kw.

[@HughTube]

Cheers matey, some great info! I may look into fuel line splicing!

[@Mike-hf2bc]

Do you have a link for the mounting plate?

[@irishrover63]

@@Mike-hf2bc Just look on eBay for 60mm diesel heater turret. You can buy one for £12.99

[@brentbailey4900]

I found the pump very noisy on first installation. Now mounted in a diecast box with filter. The box is on vibration mounts on the caravan chassis rear. I can just hear the pump faintly when in side, if I want to and that is loud enough. Mine is through its own switch at the battery. On at the start of a trip and off on return home. I kept hot air hose to one length and one vent for a 21 ft heavily insulated van in Australian climate. All good.

[@svg09851]

Great idea! What about also filling the box with insulation? Does the pump heat up?

[@charleswymer7934]

Great tips. Very informative, Thank you!

[@lloydmorrison5979]

EXCELLENT advice! Thank you for the video.

[@HughTube]

Thank you for your advice on the sprinter as well!

[@rvrandy1710]

what a great to the point video ! i didnt have to watch you eat a burger and pet your dog for 20 minutes :-) Thank you :-)

[@excaliburmcc]

If you buy a new sender unit for a Transporter it comes with an extra outlet for a diesel heater.

[@HughTube]

Oh awesome!

[@marycox1943]

Regarding the nylon fuel line and the click clicking from the fuel pump. You suggest to “soft mount” the fuel line to reduce the fuel pump clicking sound. Could you please explain what soft mounting means? A valuable video, so thank you.

[@coreybabcock2023]

Yes I always pre prime the lines going to the pump your right about the dry wear too

[@T8RTU]

Great video and useful safety points too. I’ve heard a number of installers also upgrade the filter as they are often fragile or brittle. Cheap enough from Halfords. Like the idea of something more substantial for the air supply to the heater too. ✅👍

[@HughTube]

Yes great point, for such a small amount of extra money upgrading those small parts can make a big difference

[@dennis.teevee]

very very helpful tips! thinking of buying a diesel heater soon.

[@davidpatrick1813]

Questions: 1. how is the fuel efficiency ... 2. What do you think of a fuel filter 3. What is their warranty if you know?

[@HughTube]

hi david, depends on the heat output selected but: kzbin.info has some great info and I think he mentions fuel usage amounts. the fuel filter seems fine. A little flimsy and worthy of an upgrade but works none the less. don't think there is a warranty on these, more a case of as it costs under £100 if it breaks you buy another, which is a shame.

[@eva_katua]

Hey did anyone tryed to put heating oil ? since is much cheaper and apparently more heating eficient ?

[@XRinger]

That's what I want to know. Can this heater use home heating oil / #2 Fuel Oil? Since my 275 gallon tank of #2 fuel oil stays pretty full these days..

[@eldoradoboy]

ive been using the intake and exhaist tubes for years that came with my heater.. no problems with the intake getting clogged or the pipe squished.. you just have to protect it whern you install it that you have the exhaust pointing toward the back of thre van / bus / RV so that you dont oush dirt, bugs, water, etc into the exhaist while you are driving.

[@brucesannino6181]

Question please. I won't bore you with a lot of details, unless you ask, BUT! how much of a head will the pump lift and how hot does the exhaust pipe get. As in, hot enough to start a fire? By the by, EXCELLENT tip regarding the cool down cycle. Thanks in advance and best regards.

[@sunnymas2656]

Check the detailed test videos of John McK 47 here at KZbin. kzbin.info/door/LxP_AwzCecuipKsLK1uAvQ

[@HughTube]

Hi Bruce, as @sunnymas says in the other comment John Mck47 is a WEALTH of knowledge on these heaters. Not sure on head lift but the exhaust out gets hot enough that it shouldn't be near combustible materials

[@brucesannino6181]

Another question if you don't mind. I'm going to post this same question to John McKay but I don't think it will hurt to get two expert opinions. Our motor home is gasoline not diesel. We've already got two types of fuel gasoline and LPG and I don't want to make it three. Not much information here on gasoline fired Webasto type heaters. Brian on RVing with Tito has an excellent video on his install but his is a genuine Webasto, one thousand five hundred bucks. If the Chinese knock offs were $150.00 all in, you could swap out ten of them when one failed plus have a dealer grade inventory of spare parts. There is a video here that covers running gasoline in a 'diesel' heater but the video is painful to watch. Bless the man's effort to contribute to us all but his shop and work habits don't inspire confidence. I've watched it a couple of times and I'm still surprised his entire shop doesn't burst into flames. So, comment please. What's if anything is the difference between heaters built for the two different fuels? I'm not much for modifying factory builds when it comes to liquid fuel open flame appliances. 🔥 Thanks in advance and best regards!

[@caseyangeletti6300]

All the cutaway vans I have had in the U.S. already have the dip tube installed in the fuel tank from the factory. You only need to pull the rubber cap off and hook up.

[@gedreillyhomestead6926]

I was thinking about fitting a wood burning stove in my shed/workshop but now I'm considering one of these diesel heaters. 👍 😎

[@frankiez7414]

the reason they changed from the side filling cap to the one you have with the filling port in the middle is because there is less chance of diesel leakage as its splashing about in there. You do not want any diesel anywhere in your van and its best to either tap into the vehicle supply(difficult for most)or fit a separate external tank. Tanks under the bonnet are not recommended as you also dont want any diesel in the engine bay.

[@AmylouButtress]

Great video, thanks. I know someone who had the air intake pipe squashed and killed the heater so definitely try to mount that pipe somewhere as protected as possible.

[@stonedferrit]

The vw t4 has a round metal panel under the passenger seats unscrew that and you have access to the top of the fuel tank/sender it means unbolting the seats but easier than dropping the fuel tank 😉

[@HughTube]

I was very happy to find this access hatch when I installed a heater on a friends t4 last summer

[@KarrierBag]

9:39 I haven't read the 540 comments and I might be 4 years or so late BUT just had to say, the metal pipe fits on either air in / exhaust out so just get another metal bendy pipe.

[@mattt1974UK]

I'm surprised that you have not made a video showing how to tap into the fuel tank of the Relay/Boxer/Ducato. This would be super useful for many as I can't find a good how to.

[@HughTube]

Hi Matt, I will be showing an install of a Truma D6E soon in which I tap into my tank

[@edmundcunliffe7602]

Hi, just thought if you put the "splitter" after the water heater, so as one side of it can be ducted directly outside the van for use in the summer (just for water heating) would be better, maybe? shame you can't use the temp controller to switch the heater off as well as the pump

[@HughTube]

Dude I totally agree your right, lol

[@bobshunt9]

Fitting my heater I wanted the pump under the van, so to save cutting a big hole for the pump electric plug on the end of the harness to go through I cut the wire in half and fed the wire up through a small hole, went to join the wires together I found they are both the same colour , Do you know if it matters which way round they go ,, Thanks,, Bob

[@HughTube]

Yes I wouldn't reverse polarity the cables, use a multimeter when the heater is on to see which is positive and negative. I will check tomorrow which terminal on the pump is which and let you know

[@rjhtrucking5429]

Hi , rubber tubing for the air inlet pipe. Coolant pipe from any motor factors. Also the air tube has to be the same length as the exhaust pipe.

[@matiasgaribaldi7449]

What are the specs of the fuel line and braided hose? Is there a link to where they can be purchased?

[@SacredHeart0520]

For fresh air intake. Try some flexible conduit . It's can withstand heat but won't crush and is flexible . Also if your heater loses power. You can supplement air flow . So u don't ruin it .

[@alexisdewolf7114]

It's funny what you say about the air intake because I ordered yesterday an exhaust pipe to replace it.

[@HughTube]

Boom I read your mind

[@nmartin5551]

Where did you order another exhaust?

[@stevejeffrey11]

@@nmartin5551 you can get them on amazon or ebay 20-30 bucks

[@marks-0-0]

I fitted mine like Mels Van World does his installs. Buy a more suitable custom sized tank online that fits your location, I only had space for a small 5 litre (ask for a lid with one way valve) Buy a fuel outlet tube that fits at the top of the tank. In my case this has two benefits - the tank can't leak fuel at a low point like the standard tanks and you don't need the fuel filter as any impurities sit in the bottom of the tank. Especially because my filter when it was fitted being a cheap part leaked diesel.

[@HughTube]

Some great info Mark, I personally would still always add a filter but you could get a decent one for pretty cheap

[@demolitionbmxd]

thanks for the video, just about to install mine as NY winter kicks in. Just one question (I know the video is old so perhaps this will go unnoticed) what is the reasoning for the nylon fuel line inside the rubber automotive line? To me this seems counter-intuitive. I understand the origonal fuel line with the kit may be able to kink or suck in with pressure and cause a blockage but the rubber line won't do this. I can't seem to see a reason for using the thinner hard nylon line, unless it is to help the pump keep up pressure ? Perhaps I missed something watching through the first time.

[@davidpiper3652]

Sprinters and Masters have an aux feed fitted on the sender, it's capped off and is really simple to use. My Ducato had a hatch like your Boxer but bizarrely it did not line up with the sender! External tank to the rescue.

[@HughTube]

That’s super useful having a pre fitted aux point!

[@robinsonlabs]

fuel pump tip, spray a little shot of wd40 into the pump before you start priming, that way it has a drop of lube to work with before it gets diesel boom!

[@jimkeating3067]

Silly question here. Could I use the jerry can that is mounted on the back of my 4wd. I could maybe find some sort of connector to hook up when I’m using it and disconnect it when I don’t need it

[@JacuzziSurfer]

Great video! I literally just bought a diesel Ducato (Dodge Promaster here in the US) and am looking to install this exact unit! And wondering how to tap the fuel tank as well! Thanks a bunch, saved me a sh*t load of time

[@HughTube]

haha glad I could help

[@davidosullivan3432]

thanks for that any clue of which sizes for hard nylon tube and braided tube .i seen people put a sold copper connection on air intake along with a air filter

[@slonon6410]

Fuel pipe melting seems to happen alot, why can't a brass compression fitting be used along with metal fuel line to the pump? seems like the fuel pulse would be stronger as well since the piping wouldn't be expanding with each pulse/tic? thoughts?

[@katcankan7129]

Very interesting, l hope we get to see you install it 😊

[@BigVanSmallWorld]

Very informative well done 👍 I got a tip get a wood burner 😂

[@HughTube]

ahh Mel, I would love a log burner but it just won't work in my design for the current van

[@stuartwallace7841]

The wood burner with the pizza oven looks stunning !

[@patrickcolclough2423]

When I fitted an Eberspacher heater to my Mercedes 307D many years ago, I just spliced its fuel pipe into the vans send fuel-line with a supplied T connecter. Why do these need a separate feed directly from the fuel tank?

[@RossTallo]

Something to do with modern engines monitoring fuel line pressure or something...I read it recently, that it may affect the van engine. Maybe someone else can clarify better

[@HughTube]

Similar to what Ross mentioned, I am not 100% though

[@dellawrence4323]

Do you have a link for where you got the nylon pipe please Hugh, I can't seem to find it, only black neoprene fuel pipe that is very thick?

[@eddierobson182]

I've recently fitted a diesel heater in my camper everything fitted as it should be works perfect except a horrible smell is this cause the unit is new and needs to be worn in or is this an issue, it smells of burning plastic/rubber but nothing is melted?? Thanks for any advice.

[@Rattlesomecages]

Awesome tips!

[@charliebravo5562]

Thank you for this vide, I've learned a lot from watching this. (And this is the 2nd time I've watched it).

[@HughTube]

Thank you!

[@varzel]

ducato has same fueltank acces location. when u cutoff power there will be unburned fuel tha will mix with the sutt and slowly form a weird gunk in the chamber and on the glowspark besides melting electonic pcb and the casing . u can let the air inlet without tubing just put a wiremash not to frie any radants.

[@koningbolo4700]

For the inlet pipe I made a mandrel from a broomstick which I screwed in a threaded rod into. The mandrel can be used to make a coil out of (what I use) 1,6mm thick mig welding wire. One can also use the thicker gardening wire or simply fencing wire. The coil can be fed over the flimsy pipe which keeps it from kinking or deforming very easily. In general one has to be careful how such pipes are mounted and routed...

[@roytoal9947]

Id use silicone hose that the boy racers use for the air intake side

[@RossTallo]

This any good under the van though mate? I know the stuff you mean, but only seen it in an engine bay...never held it either

[@roytoal9947]

@@RossTallo it's tough stuff used for oil , water and turbos so I imagine it would take being under a van, as under a hot bonnet with high pressure etc

[@RossTallo]

@@roytoal9947 excellent, will remember this when I buy my heater 👍🏻

[@johnross5540]

id love to see some videos about other mods, i want to get a deisel heater and attach it to a 55 gallon drum(metal) as the fuel tank, then connect the exhaust line up to a radiator to use more of the heat, i was thinking a house radiator or a car radiator or even a radiator from a water cooler set up for a pc, also is there a way to control one of these from an alexa?

[@avadeal345]

May be able to use flexible electrical conduit fery strong

[@xXTheoLinuxXx]

Today I received my second heater (vevor) and this one has the white nylon tube instead of the green one.

[@williamlee7782]

The last tip about overheating the PCB board is why I don't put the heater on a switch. While the controller draws a bit of power even on off, after the heater fully shuts down and cooled, and only when I don't plan to use the heater for the night (say, when I'm done camping in the cold), will I disconnect the controller to prevent a parasitic draw to the house/aux battery.

[@LoftechUK]

Garden fish pond hose is great for air intake plus a cold air filter from a cheap moped is brill

[@LillaHusVanlife]

Good few tips, there, Hugh.. 👍 I've fitted mine, but not wired it yet. Firstly I discarded the plate and bought a turret plate for £19 with sufficient depth to protect the plywood and insulation layers and protrude through the bodywork..then I had some of the nylon pipe from a previous van. The jubilee clips, are all stainless ones from online. I didn't use any of the ones that came with the unit. When I wire it up, I'll be cutting the battery wires as short as possible, to avoid voltage errors, or maybe changing them to thicker wires.. 🤔 Oh and lastly, I bought some aluminium ducting from Amazon, as the ducting supplied is minimal, considering it came with a T junction and two vents...lol Great vid..thankya.. 👍

[@HughTube]

Cheers, some interesting points!

[@danielk1853]

About the last part - hard-wiring to the battery. Some people say that the controller breaks first, because the LED display is on all the time. That is why they connect a seperate switch to turn the controller on and off whenever needed. What do you think of that? Is it possible to hardwire the heater and have the controller switched on seperately?

[@Itsnotmeitsmybrother]

Hi you get compression fitting for the hard plastic use the black as the clear is susceptible to UV degrading !! Also butting it up against input on pump inside some tube if bent can obstruct opening restricting flow !! The best on other fuel lines are crimp ones you get a more even distribution on the grip!! I used to do motorsport and all these that iv’e said are all tested and proven as we’ve all gone through that with fuel lines especially on fuel injected engines as re pressure !! Also same on any air lines like on air jacks same plastic tube with pressure fittings !! 👍

[@mhelander]

I've used stock fuel tubing between pump & heater and exactly as long as manual suggests. Now thinking it more clearly it makes sense to use hard line there. My filter is just after tank and has short stock tubing, rest of suction tubing to pump is braided rubber fuel line, some 6 meters. My only issue is when running out of fuel... getting it running takes some time and likely wear of the pump.

[@hornet1068]

Hi, probably a dumb question, but let's say you have no space available within your van to mount these heaters, could the whole assembly be mounted underfloor if fuel feed was taken directly from the fuel tank. I appreciate this would put the heater unit in the full line of fire of all road dirt, salt, grime, etc. And where would be a good place to take the main air inlet from in your opinion? Do you duct from inside to inside? Also where would i feed the combustion chamber air inlet from? Would that have to be free from all contaminants, eg, again from inside the van? Many thanks for your help. Regards David.

[@HughTube]

Hi David, yes these can definitely be mounted externally. Also yes I would not advise they aren't protected if mounted externally. You can get steel housings for them (mounted 2 to a bus) the combustion air in just came from outside through provided pipe and filter as standard and for best results I would duct the 'to be heated' air from the van interior at one end and then back in 'heated' but at the other end of the van, hope that makes sense

[@malcolmrowe5031]

Could you not put a piece of plastic pipe in the end of the air inlet pipe, like when you use push fit water pipes you have to put in a hard insert to stop it deforming?

[@HughTube]

Hey Malcolm, hope you have been well good to hear from you again! If you add an insert you will reduce the amount of air that could enter the pipe leading to air fuel mix issues.

[@malcolmrowe5031]

@@HughTube hi Hugh, yep am good thanks, just missed out in the last two typhoons here luckily! Never thought about restrictions of air flow, thanks for your reply! Take care!

[@Fornitejack]

Thanks for the video Hugh. Is there anyway I can just connect a stand alone battery and just remove and charge it opposed to fitting it to my leisure battery. I want to keep my power source away from everything else.

[@HughTube]

You could but without any charge input you may find yourself charging that battery fairly regularly

[@Bunty1962]

Hi Hugh, thank you for the tips in relation to the heater. I am in the process of fitting a 5kw one to my garden pub shed 5.5m x 3.5m, Im sure it will be warm enough. The only issue I have is that i do not want to install anything other than heater pipe and controls to the inside of the shed, therefore plan to build an outside construction to house everything else. Would I be better going for brick or wooden box to house these. Not sure of what heat the unit itself creates. I am aware that the exhaust gets pretty hot but I plan to insulate it. Hope you cna give me some pointers as to size and makeup of the container as there are very few online ideas cheers Colin

[@HughTube]

Hey Colin, I would avoid wood for the surround, the exhaust pipe can get very hot.

[@danhayes3546]

Have you ever installed the heater on the out side with just the heat ducting coming in got a place which is pretty dry? Thanks

[@HughTube]

Yes done this a few times for people and you can but stainless cases for them to be mounted outside, they can be found on ebay

[@BradWithTheVan]

Thanks for the tips dude! - I was going to fit the tank that came with the kit but I think ill just plumb in the sender on my Ducato!

[@stevesowerby522]

The rubber pipe is better than nylon hose and is a necessity in a boat. Get a better exhaust and use the the existing aluminium one for air intake. Use the simplest on off control unit as less to go wrong. Mount where easily accessible and they're so cheap you can just get a spare if you have problems. Run on maximum power regularly to clean the carbon build up.

[@shanethomson8838]

What is the inside diameter of the intake pipe? Could you not use rubber tubing?

[@amandable7106]

Someone else has said 2mm inner diameter

[@andrzejslosarczyk3086]

What's the U shape metal tube? Can't figure out 😅 don't mean exhaust pipe, just the 4mm thin one

[@boken3408]

Bro drew a picture! Awesome video!

[@frank88ster]

Anudda tip for insulating exhaust 'hot' pipe can actually double as 'heat exchanger'. Coil a copper pipe (moving liquid, I E oil or water) around exhaust pipe n U got free heated water (5w /12v water pump). Slip anuud larger pipe over windings after taping exhaust tape around copper n U hav a heat exchange going n a safer contact wid odda materials.

[@Itsnotmeitsmybrother]

Ah that paper insulated hose again you get reinforced it’s not as cheep though🙈!! But we used it on air ducting to and from brake ducting !! And it’s way more flexible without kinking !!

[@josephjackson5330]

the return fuel line is a perfect picup.alot of companies give u an exorst thats 2-3 mm to big & use exorst paste .

[@davidpatrick1813]

Regarding of air intake. Maybe see if you can find flexible electrical conduit and put the air intake tube inside it.. not replacing it.

[@clarkspiemuncher24]

great video and wondering if anyone has a link to a better air intake pipe than the flimsy one provided in the kit, ? as you asked the question, but i cant see anyone addressing this ?

[@bobpeg7457]

I installed one of these in my travel trailer (caravan). It came out of a wrecked semi truck (transport). Nearly all truck manufacture's here in the States use the same heaters in the sleeper berths. Very quiet. My next project is to install the APU (Aux. Power Unit) from the same wreck to supply house hold electric power and air conditioning. It is also diesel powered and circulates engine coolant thru the vehicle engine block when parked.

[@svg09851]

Love to see an install video

[@millinutz]

Will the new stiff white tubing not fit into the orig. green tubing to give a little sound insulation and deaden that little click sound?

[@HughTube]

to be honest, that could be a great shout! Would need to check but if it fit it would be some great added protection and yes potential sound deadening.