6/7 Speed Freewheel To 8/9/10/11 Speed Cassette Bike Conversion

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

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[@Flexmar19]

I would like to try this on my bike, do you have a list for the parts you used or would recommend, and what would be a good website to purchase them from? Great videos, thanks.

[@davidlehre2893]

hi i have a problem whit my bike can you help me plz

[@natas0733]

What would be a realistic cost for the equipment to do this. I already have derailers.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

@@natas0733 It costs what you spend. You have to research what it will cost you in your area with what you want.

[@nomadben]

As a mechanical guy who's just starting to get into bikes, this was an incredibly enjoyable video to watch. It was very well put-together, included lots of little useful information that you wouldn't normally find in an instructional video, and was easy to follow. I will definitely come back to your channel when the time comes to do my first custom bike build. Cheers!

[@dperreno]

Ha! I just watched this video 9 years after you posted it. I've converted a couple of vintage bikes. Took a lot longer than an hour, though (mostly due to the need to deep clean everything!) The most recent bike just coincidentally had it's rear triangle already set to 126mm, even though it was originally just 5 speed in the back. However, I did need to align the dropouts but I didn't have those cool alignment tools. Hello 15" Crescent wrench! The only change I would make is to suggest that you use a quick link on the chain to facilitate removal and cleaning. Of course, quick links are much more common now than they were even 9 years ago, so that might just be a sign of the times. Overall, great video!

[@Veronica_needssleep]

You sir, are the best thing to happen to bike enthousiasts since Sheldon Brown!

[@gsansoucie]

You are doing a wonderful job of filling out my winter project lists. I've been monitoring Craigslist for an old steel frame bike to upgrade but wanted to go with 8-10 speed wheelset, this just showed me how to handle the bending. Awesome.

[@rohnofficier288]

Thanks! I managed to convert my vintage Peugeot U06 from a 5 speed freewheel to a 8 speed cassette with a pair of mavic helium you're the best bike guy to explain how to do things I learned a lot from your channel!

[@manueltigre9257]

You're the real one. I just love how you work with bikes but the most important, your work is a high quality work.

[@MrKotBonifacy]

8:57 - If you don't have one of those expensive fancy frame alignment gauges you can use a regular spirit level, 1 m long (enough for virtually all bikes out there, as a typical between axle distance is 106-108 cm, and then some of it is due to fork rake). You just place, or "press" the level against head tube and seat tube, and place the "rear' tip of the level inside of the rear triangle - and then measure the distance from inner side of the dropout to the level. A "typical" level is made from an aluminium section 20 x 50 mm, and when you touch the frame with the narrow side of it, the inner side of the dropout falls just at/ next to the opposite side of the section. So you can just eyeball the distance - that is, to compare how evenly left and right side are spread (if you keep it within 1-2 mm difference you should be OK). Or you can use a ruler to measure the gap if you want to be accurate. AND Anyway, this method would be more accurate than string method, IMO. Optionally, if you feel creative and willing to spend some time, you can grab a 100-110 cm piece of aluminium section, like, say, 30 x 30 or 25 x 40 mm, drill a hole through one end and thread it (say, M10 or so), into which you can screw a screw (bolt) - which then can be moved "in" or "out" to accurately compare the spread of left and right side of the triangle. About the "spreading tool" - yes, it looks like a good idea, except that... it isn't really. The problem is, the lower tube of the right side of the triangle is usually flattened a bit on the outside in the area where chainwheels come close to it, so it would bend much easier than the left one. I've tried this method when I was to spread "my" first few frames, but because of the above mentioned issue it never produced satisfactory results, so I dumped it - and now when I'm to spread (or "shrink") the frame I just take the bottom bracket out (its innards, that is), put some brass linings onto jaws of my vice (which is affixed securely to a heavy workbench), grab the bike by the BB in the vice, and then use a piece of soft-wood (pine or spruce, so it won't scratch the paint; something like 1 m long, 3 x 8 cm batten) as a lever to spread out (or in) the frame (the fulcrum is the seat tube, obviously. Then adjusting the "parallelnes" of the dropouts - again, "expensive" and "fancy" comes to the fore - as those tools ARE pretty expensive (at least comparing to what they actually are) - like, 140 quids, with delivery, for a pair of fancy screws with long handles? When a two M10 hardened bolts, two nuts, two long nuts (a.k.a. "female nuts") and four thick and wide washers would do? Costing altogether much less than a £10? (For leverage use adjustable wrench or a piece of a pipe of suitable inner diameter.) And yes, I know - there's a video by Bike Guy showing how to DIY that gauge. And yes, I'd also agree that when you're running a proper full-time bicycle shop you just buy tools on the market and don't waste your time on DYI follies - it's just not worth it. But for me, a full-time bike hobbyist for past 25 yrs spending couple of days doing DIY shenanigans AND NOT spending a grand on fancy tools does make a sense. (Sorta... to a degree.) And frankly, those "pro tools" often aren't really that "pro" - I looked at many bike stands available on the market, comparing their design, stiffness and price, and then I decided... to make one myself. (Ditto for dishing tool, truing stand, headset bearing tool, and others). Yes, it took me couple of days to make the bike repair stand, almost a week to make the truing stand (incl. dishing tool) - but the repair stand is as stiff as... well, never mind - suffice to say it's better than anything on the market, for less than a hundred quids, including zinc-plating (done, obviously, in a specialised electroplating shop). Truing stand? Maybe 50 quids... Admittedly, one has to have an access to fabricating tools like a proper band saw/ disc cutting machine, a MIG/MAG welder and such - which I've had - so I could, but then other folks are not blessed with such access, so... Yeah, life isn't fair, I know. ;-)

[@prestongolden9901]

Nice toolset! A few months ago I made a homemade threaded-rod spreader much like you did and used it to widen the rear triangle on a throwaway bike for a project I'm working on, worked great too. Enjoyed watching your conversion, well done!

[@edgarner1922]

I have an 1985 Raleigh Super Course and plan to do much of what you have demonstrated here. I can't tell you how helpful this was! A very well done video.

[@Aeshir2]

your videos are excellent. you don't skip any steps throughout the whole process and it gives me the feeling like i'm doing it myself and learning all the little important things i normally would from a process like this (i've done most of these procedures myself before but i pick up little things here and there)

[@TheMoose240]

This is a perfect video! I recently bought an old bike, I think it's a 70s or 80s Puch. My goal is to upgrade it to a Shimano 105 R7000 groupset with 700c wheels. This explains everything in detail for what I need! Can't wait to get started, already ordered Shimano BR7000 brakes, Jagwires and new bar tape to start.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Patrick Suter, Yes. The limiting screw on the derailleur will only let it go over so far, essentially turning the trip shifter into a double.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

@@Dopeassbikevids Then it doesn't apply to you. He was asking about using a 3 speed shifter for a double.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

@@Dopeassbikevids I don't know. Start googling.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

@@Dopeassbikevids I don't know what largest cog available on a freewheel is. You want to know. You are just as able to google the answer as me. So go for it. I am not your personal researcher!!!!!!!

[@mistermatsuda]

I've learned a lot from you. Keep it going, this is my favorite "bike" channel by far. Thanks!

[@BartAppleseed]

Personally, the BEST bike channel! Thank you RJ.

[@geraldleonard8187]

Like your channel and have used many of your videos for my bikes. As far as spreading the rear triangle, I first used a threaded rod as you showed, then I tried a much easier method which had good results. I simply used one of the quick clamps on which one of the jaws is reversible so it becomes a spreader. It worked great and if you go too far, you just use the same tool to pull it back together the needed distance. Give that a try next time you need to adjust a rear triangle. Keep up your good instructive videos.

[@OjStudios]

Damn man! That was some hardcore upgrading on the bike, nice!

[@jamesporter5630]

Thanks. I got a great deal out of this build. I’m having a mid-80’s Wilier Triestina restored at the moment. I wrestled with stretching the rear triangle and modernizing. (I don’t put out the watts like I did in the 80’s.) In the end I opted to stick with original components to stay period true. After watching this upgrade I can guarantee there will be some (winded), second guessing when the hills demand granny gears and the vintage Wilier denies.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Sounds cool!

[@vermonthillsumc]

RJ really appreciate you and these videos

[@DougFenrich]

Makes me want to UP date my OLD bikes. I have a 1970's PEUGEOT racing bike, and a 1970's Motobecane touring bike

[@Aeshir2]

that expander is brilliant! i just used sheldon brown's 2x4 to go from a five speed to a 7

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Gerry Sanabria, I didn't leave it all. I spread it, released it, and measured. Then spread it further. You probably need to spread it farther.

[@JoseGonzalez-gl7zd]

nice video. I used a car jack for my old frame with Good result.

[@WillieMcX]

This is video is exactly what I need to finally make a decision! I have a 1976 Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2 (Panasonic built) I've been debating between a full refurbish or a 700c and component upgrade. Been part of my decor for about a year and half... I've also been pricing new steel road bikes that would essentially be the same thing as converting this bike would be, but not nearly as cool. It has a five speed freewheel, so I'll have to measure the width between the drops, but hopefully it's doable for a 8 or 9 speed conversion to 130mm. I'm thinking a 50/34 up front and a 11-32 9 speed in back as my ideal set up. Your videos are awesome. When ever I'm stuck this is my first source... Thanks!

[@papalums]

Thanks for the video, very informative and useful since I'm upgrading my Dad's road bike from 6 speed to 8 or possibly 9 speed

[@THSimagery]

This was very interesting to watch! I am performing a few upgrades as well and loved watching your approach. I learned a lot.

[@mcjcg1372]

I like how the bikes you call vintage are the ones I started working on. Way to make me fill old lol good video thanks

[@mortensen1961]

What a co-winky-dink! I'm doing the same thing to my Raleigh (USA Technium Olympian). Didn't have to spread the dropouts; they're already set at 130mm (my Bontrager rear wheel just slid right in)... . .

[@eduardoguzman4053]

Yxxxx XXXX

[@grabba73]

that whole 1st long part with all those tools just to bend the frame out, would've took me about 30-45 seconds, I just grab and bend, arm power, done it with tons of forks, some frames. you gotta be an engineer or something. you know a lot about bikes I noticed and Reynolds frame is sweet, light, comfy. and they will hold a good value!!!!!! Take Care and ride fast.

[@moquiti]

FOr the stay spreading pert, putting a washer & jam nut on the outside of the right-hand dropout would be simpler than using a vice grip. Excellent video and wisdom!

[@MarcoArayaS]

RJ, your videos are amazing man, congratulations! I hope to do the same upgrade on one of my bikes and this video it´s gone be a lot of help. Thanks and greetings from Chile, south america.

[@davemason2290]

Thanks for the video, I enjoyed watching it. I used to buy old steel bikes from my local tip (dump) in the late 90s and do similar conversations. I used to use a old rear solid axle to spread the frame. I used the string method to measure alignment, it was interesting to see you using the tool, I'm not sure which method is better but I would guess the tool is. For aligning the dropouts I had a setup using 2 axles with reversed track nuts on the ends to achieve a similar result. Thanks again, brought memories back.

[@randy1817]

Nice job. That's a good looking old bike. it's funny, I don't like lever shifters. I only use downtube shifters. I just can't use them. Too many wires up front. No the less, it looks good with the upgrades!!

[@sharon7382]

I just set my 1984 Raleigh Wyoming mixte. Thank you so much RJ!

[@sharon7382]

Set to 130 and wheel slides in like a dream!

[@brunorosa2227]

here's a tip, brace the brake bridge as cold setting might stress (it) to the point of fracture, you can do this by cutting a piece of wood at the angle the seat tubes are set at then hold either side of the bridge with a G clamp. if you break the brazing at the bridge you'll need proffesional repair and repaint £££ !!

[@colinvanwijk5731]

With a 3-4 mm adjustment you can also wrestle the wider wheel in and do it up really tight. Align the hanger and off you are.

[@KekusMagnus]

yup, I have done it and it was not an issue. I think pulling is only necessary over 6-7mm and even then you can get away without it

[@PenguinJim33]

Thank you so much for this. Can’t wait to do this to my 1982 Fuji Sagres

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

jinneemagic302, You should be able to do this on any of the steel alloy frames. Just not aluminum, carbon fiber or titatium or anything like that. But as I said in the video, you do this at your own risk.

[@the_pro_gamingwolf]

RJ The Bike Guy could you use a heat gun to warm up the metal for aluminium frames to bend them without damage?

[@georgeb.wolffsohn30]

RJ The Bike Guy what about spreading that to 135 mm ?

[@SamMead]

Nice one RJ - I doubt I'll be able to do this as fast as you. Thanks very much for the video!

[@carloszambrano3227]

Excellent work, salute from Venezuela..!

[@Oasis-of-Spirit]

Thanks. Lots of good tips for the DYI home guy.

[@gearhead2017]

Good videos as always rj

[@BradMaestas]

Nice little project. I have a 1985 Team Fuji and it's still sporting a 6-speed cluster (Sun Tour Winner). I've been tempted to convert it but I think I'm gonna keep it period correct. When I need big range I have my carbon bike. I love the SRAM Red 22 group but there's something undeniably smooth and sexy with friction shifters and the nicer Sun Tour derailleurs. This turned out nice. Happy spinning!

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

+Brad Maestas Nothing wrong with keeping a nice vintage bike vintage.

[@marchlander1]

15:42 WAW!.... Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely check that tomorrow afternoon, when I'm back home.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Here is a more detailed video about fixing chainring wobbe: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y564Z3evqZmGh8k

[@marchlander1]

Thanks. I figured I might be something bended.... I don't know, I'll play around and see what's up. Have a nice day :)

[@TheTrakker]

Great video. And I absolutely love that beautiful bike! Makes me want to say the Pledge of Allegiance.

[@scottbramley1778]

Nice safety shoes ;) Seriously though, yet another awesome explanation video. Thank you

[@deanhps]

Very well explained. Thank you

[@lineartechbd1600]

Back in the day, in order to spread the frame like that or bend a fork back I used to use a big a@@ rubber mallet. I was so good at it that I could fix a fork that was bent back 2 inches and bend inwards 3 inches, with four good whacks. Granted, these were cheap Kmart bikes but I saved various stores and bicycle companies so much time and money with my mallet. I remember we used to get paid like 7.50 to straighten a fork. That was good money when you consider the fact that we made 4.50 per bicycle assembly. That mallet was like Thor's hammer. I was so good, I swing that hammer on the inner side of the fork and bend it back without touching the outside of the opposite fork. Alignment tool? I don't need no stinking alignment tool. 3mm is nothing. One whack and I'm done. By the way, the trick to straightening forks without putting stress on the head tube and head bearings is to clamp the other fork leg in your bike stand. Then again, we had those super commercial park stands. These cheap stands today might break if you whack a fork.

[@benjaminflatin2054]

Love this👍🏻👍🏻 I have a 86 Miyata seven ten. And i want to try a similar upgrade. Very helpful stuff RJ👍🏻

[@bobmoy3406]

After expanding the dropout you could try tapping on the triangle to try to help stress relief as they do at the body shop after pulling a dent out.

[@JasonWatsonDr]

Great tips, thank you! Not sure why you replaced the stem... if it allowed the use of modern cartridge bearings sure... but it looks cosmetic only (but the old one looked classic!)

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

I like threadless stems. They allow allow for easy replacement to adjust fitting.

[@VinJapanGuitarShop]

love that frame!

[@fouriertransformbrowne6886]

as he's stretching the 2 triangles apart (8 min +) I found myself sweating , tensely saying to myself : "don't crack....don't crack....don't crack...." HOORAY ! :)

[@davehen4289]

excellent vid RJ, you covered loads there. very helpful. cheers.

[@smoberdeen]

Thanks for the video. I just acquired a 1987 Miyata Competition 512 in great (original) condition. I just threw a 9-speed cassette and 700 wheel set on it. I'm leaving it as a friction shift for now; but I am eyeing a 2 x 9 brifter set for $85. The original rear derailleur is working for full motion and moves the chain to all of the cogs. I am experiencing a slight issue in mid-range and the barrel adjustment doesn't seem to help it any. It's more like the chain link is stacking on top of the tooth. Keep in mind I still have the 6-speed chain on it. I only started this project yesterday and I have 2 other bikes to ride. I'll see what happens after I replace the chain. The idler gear and tension gear may need to be replaced also according to what I saw in your video.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

A 6 speed chain is too fat for a 9 speed cassette. Get a 9 speed chain which is thinner. You may also want a 9/10 speed rear derailleur.

[@guillermocalzada9392]

Thank hoy very much for the advice. Now I Know how to convert from six to eight. I have troubles with the conversion. I have a Benotto bike since 35 years ago. Thank you very much

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Alex Paulsen, but not all derailleurs have the same reach. You need to make sure whatever derailleur you have will reach all the cogs.

[@canitogalicia]

Excellent ,,, I got a 9 speed dura ace on an old Schwinn paramount steel frame and. It’s way better than my Colnago carbon bike....

[@EwenThompson]

Thanks for this video. Plan to upgrade my vintage Raleigh 10-speed at some stage in the future. Great guide for such a job.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

10 speed upgrade will be similar. The spacing will be different. Standard 10 speed spacing is 120mm. The I have a Raleigh 10 speed with a Normandy hub...and apparently the french like to be different the hub is about 124mm wide.

[@EwenThompson]

Thanks. Bike is still hanging up in the shed. I'll let you know how I go when I get around to it. Think it's a retirement job, so could be a few years!

[@1011Ravi]

I.e India, true Indians always respects culture, most of the indian people should learn the culture from these family. -Salute to your family

[@sirulrich88]

Hey! As a seasoned vintage converter I can tell you why the middle gears are not working as expected, its because your rear derailleur housing is not aligned with the chainstay cable stopper that creates friction. Your housing is way too long and you need a Jagwire 5mm Lined Alloy End Caps or similar to get rid of the problem. Great video and thank you

[@henrybikeman]

Hi RJ and thanks for the tips, I’m doing this on a Reynolds 531DB touring frame. I’ve already taken it out from 126 to 160mm, thats 34mm, and it springs right back to 126! So this tells me that my 531DB tubing is a much higher grade than what that Raleigh Team USA is made of. Have you any tips about how far I’ll need to stretch it to yield the stays by 2mm each side? Have you ever done it with a top grade steel frame? Im just a bit nervous about pushing it too far. Thank you sir.

[@lineartechbd1600]

From what I remember, 7 speed and 8 speed cogs are spaced the same. I know this because I once bought a 32tooth single gear and put it, plus a spacer and then a 7 speed stx cassette onto an 8 speed hub in order to make a custom 11-32tooth cassette. I think I had an 11-32 before shimano had one out. I think the issue you get is with the shifter, not the cassette.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Normal 7 speed cogs are spaced at 5mm. Shimano 8 spd cogs are spaced at 4.8mm. Campy 8 spd cogs are spaced to 5mm. There are other variations: sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

[@samcordes]

Would have loved to have seen you do the fine tuning. That is the part I struggle with the most.

[@rorystothers]

The odds that I have this same exact bike, Raleigh from team USA that I’ve been thinking about upgrading to a potential gravel bike or just more recent, and here you go through everything! Thanks for the full description!

[@diracify]

really cool video, will be giving this a go on my old peugeot.

[@MrGlennhumphreys]

really love that bike

[@yilmazkiziltoprak3508]

ihtiyac duydugum bir videodu tesekurler.

[@yan24to]

You make it look easy

[@SuperOrcy]

seriously considering an 11 speed upgrade on an old Dodson steel frame that I put a lot of miles on as a teenager. this gives me hope that its not a completely wasted cause.

[@phillipblack8986]

Fantastic channel, has helped me alot. Many thanks

[@JUST_ONE_ID10T]

I picked up one of these old 10 speeds at a thrift shop and it looks like new and still has the paper work with it. it only cost me 15 dollars. :)

[@tomchamberlain4329]

that's a lot of pepsi!

[@mrfluffy6199]

Tom Chamberlain wut?

[@pawekopczyk3205]

and Mountain Dew:)

[@gillean2]

Excellent video, thank you for making it and posting it.

[@Deejayamar786]

this video covers almost every thing good one....

[@ErwinNiezing]

No need to bend your steel frame. I upgraded my '82 Koga Miyata 6-speed with downshifters to a 8-speed brifter. Got rid of my aluminium rims and replaced them by Shimano R501 8-speed steel rims. Fits perfect without stressing your frame. Replaced my Shimano Altus 6-speed for a full group Shimano Claris 8-speed. Adjusting my front derailleur was a bit tight. Still cycling tho.:)

[@sixpac6ft1]

+effen0174 - you posted this 8 months ago - how is the bike running now? no hub/wheel damage?

[@ErwinNiezing]

+Barry Hooper Thnx for commenting. Why would there be any damage? My old bike still rides like dynamite. I take care of my roadbikes on a weekly basis. Good maintenance is the key..

[@sixpac6ft1]

+effen0174 - just bought an vintage 10 speed bike, and was planning to upgrade to 700c wheels with 16 speed. I just wanted a testimony from someone who has used the bike frequently as problems won't necessarily occur in the acute stage, but more likely after chronic usage. Your post has been very helpful and now i can pursue with my upgrades in confidence. Thanks.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

I have upgraded several bikes like this and not had any issues.

[@E82N55]

I looked at the specs of those wheelsets and the rear wheel mount width of those Shimano R501's are 130 mm, which is greater than the standard 126mm of regular 6/7 speed bikes. How did you get them to fit without bending?

[@ajwallace7447]

I have this same vintage frame in original 6 speed down tube shifter set-up. Wouldn't dream of messing with the precious thing. Ride it only on a few fine weather special days. Akin to a rare Ferrari or Aston Martin in my stable.

[@Pillokun]

That frame is worthy of a slick carbon fork and a one piece stem-handlebar also in carbon from aliexpress/alibababa :)

[@onny4u]

Thanks for your wonderful videos. What about front fork? I have a wider hub for the front wheel. Will you advise to widen the front fork and max by how much? Thanks!

[@poly_hexamethyl]

10:05 The alignment tool tells you the two sides are not parallel, but how do you then tell which side it is that needs to be bent?

[@JamesBond-hy4kv]

Nice work! Which side pull brakes are you using? Thanks.

[@TA-kv3nm]

I have an old e-stay frame. it had cracks in the frame where the chain stays meet the seat tube. It was repaired by a machinist, who used heat (blowtorch) to realign the frame and brass to repair the area with the cracks. I have everything here to do the job. Would it be in my best interest to just switch to a free hub wheel? I’m unsure what the integrity of my frame is, even with the repair.

[@jupiter8a]

Helpful vid thanks. Useful shifter & chain stays alignment advice.

[@guandasin3099]

For 23:10, does that mean I can use 3speed left shifters with 2x front derailleurs?

[@A4k2i0]

Awesome video! I learned a lot. Thank you!

[@dannyvisitacion8975]

I really enjoyed it and I learned a lot thank you .

[@joegabriel6001]

I want to resale the bike. so don't want to put alot of money into it. I also like to keep them as original as possible. But sometimes you just can't find the replacement parts. So to go to index shifting I would have to replace the front and rear derailleur and the shifters? All the mounts on the older bike frames are compatible with the newer parts? thanks RJ

[@hmdoan0]

Hey RJ. Great video as usual! So I converted my 1988 Fuji Del Rey from 6 speed to 10 speed and everything worked great. I have all new 700 c wheels with a 10 speed free hub along with new front and rear derailleurs/shifters (Microshift Centos) and 10 speed crank set (Shimano 105). And I changed to a KMC 10 speed chain as well. The cassette spins freely but my chain rubs against the frame on the smallest cog. Do you have any suggestions on what I might do to correct this? I did the string test and the frame is pretty even but did not check the dropouts as I don't own that tool.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Add a small spacer on the axle on the drive side, like maybe 1-2mm. Try aligning the dropouts first.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

DIY dropout tools: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqS4aXyhoKuUpc0

[@hmdoan0]

You are fast! :) I'll give that try.

[@hmdoan0]

The 2 mm washer did the trick. There is a little metal insert in the drop-out that was sticking out far enough to interfere with the chain. Adding the washer was just enough to match the thickness of that insert and thus the chain now clears. Thank you so much for your sage advice, RJ!

[@zombpocolypseiscomin]

that was interesting! now I want to upgrade a vintage bike!

[@peterpapula]

I love your videos; they are my first go to when I am new to some fix I am trying. I took on a older bike 2 X 5 to 3 X 8 conversion. I expanded the frame per your video and it went fine, thanks. I bought a rear derailleur for an 8 gear rear cassette but it does not attach to the frame in the way the old one did. I looked through several of your videos but I couldn't find one that addressed this issue. Help. Thoughts?

[@nigelnightmare4160]

I put grease on the frame before fitting the cable stops to the down tube Aluminium to steel! Stops them corroding to the frame just like you did with the handlebar stem. I think the reason it hesitated changing down is you had it on the small front chain ring. Cross chaining is not recommended.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

But you have to test in every combination. And this was an early video in the project. I later changed the cranks and FD.

[@ambalme]

Hi RJ, I really enjoy your videos and they are very helpful! I'm doing this exact thing on my bike, going from a 6 speed to a more modern 8 speed rear end (with the slightly wider spacing). I have no issue getting the rear wheel in, however it is offset by around 5mm to the non-drive side. The wheel runs true. Will this require re-dishing of the wheel to make it work/align in the center, or am I overlooking something? Thanks!

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Could be wheel dish. More likely the frame is out of alignment. kzbin.info/www/bejne/moazcn6niJiXqpo

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zn6rc3t8qpl2qKM

[@Sazabiiiiii]

Is cold setting from 120 to 130 too much of a distance? If not, would you say it is safe to do so on a peugeot carbolite frame? (120mm going to 130). Thanks for the video!

[@brunorosa2227]

Jay Sullivan yes that would be absolutely fine jay, but to be honest if your happy to spread the frame everytime you put the wheel in that'll be fine btw your frame should measure 126mm

[@joegabriel6001]

Hi RJ .....great videos, they always help me out. Wondering if it's possible to use a newer style rear derailleur with friction gears? I have a 70s Peugeot 10 speed. Im looking to upgrade the Simplex rear derailleur. thanks

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

+Joe Gabriel It would probably work. But why not go to indexed shifting?

[@westgl2006]

I had a Raleigh Team bike years ago, it was a descent bike. I like the Upgrades makes me want my old bike back, any idea how much the Upgraded team bike weighs now

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Lucas Patterson, yes it be be able to be reversed.

[@igeekw2u]

very nice excellent video. Thank you very much for the nice tips shyflirt1 . I have an old 40 y old german hercules my own. I am trying to fit in some cassette. Apparently the old spacing is 120mm it was meant for 5-6 gears.The frame is good old CrMo. Would it be safe to try an expanding to 130mm at once or let it be in 125 or so some time and them expand some more?

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

120mm is generally 5 gears. 6/7 gears jumps to 126mm. (there are exceptions on these) If you are going to be expanding, resting wont make a difference.

[@minhtoi]

RJ The Bike Guy Back in the day, many of us were SunTour freewheel junkies for their "ultra" spacing. Ultra-6 speed in 120mm and Ultra-7 in 126mm dropout widths -- with a Sedias Sport chain. Shimano *way* lagged behind with their cassettes sticking to traditional 5-speed inter-cog spacing for their 6 speeds.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

minhtoi Yep, the Ultra stuff was one of the exceptions. But they are kind of obscure.

[@minhtoi]

And now insanely expensive used on eBay. Been wanting to build a period correct early 80's bike like I grew up with (which had Ultra-7 winner freewheel). Crazy money to do so.

[@PimpinBassie2]

Why remove the quill stem and install a ahead adapter? First it is ugly and second it is a kludge. It totally ruins the looks of the bike.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

I like it. It also makes it easier to adjust the fit of the bike.

[@mortensen1961]

RJ The Bike Guy Also you don't have to remove/reinstall the tape and brakes should you need/want to change stems.

[@blacklight4460]

I agree, new dorky stem killed the "vintage" look for little benefit, unless you're one who likes to change stems every month.

[@jangel7424]

Thanks for sharing sir! Its a really2 big help. Specially for a beginner like mi. Kudos!

[@NightOwwl728]

I wanted to do this kind of upgrade on a 80s Colnago Super frame so I took it to an LBS and the owner/mechanic couldn't guarantee that he wouldn't crack the frame because he surmised that the chainstays (and/or their associated join points to the rest of the frame, don't remember what he said exactly as it was a while ago) might be made from hardened steel, so, there was more of a chance of damage occurring if the triangle was expanded too far. What would be your opinion about this? I'd really like to do this upgrade but if the chances of wrecking the frame increases more than usual with the hardened steel theory, I''m wary of taking the risk.

[@oscarres2803]

Very informative, RJ. Thank you. I have an aluminum Schwinn 3 X 7, the frame is light and the mechs are ... well, Walmart puppy love and all regrets. To change to 9 speed I need to cold set it a bit. If it works isn't a bad deal. Is it safe to do cold setting on aluminum? If not, why? Thank you for replying.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Oscar B No it is not safe to cold set an aluminum frame. Check out the section on durability: www.missionbicycle.com/blog/oversimplified-steel-vs-aluminum