700R4 Performance Tips and Tricks PT1 - Valve Body

Part 1 of 2 - I talk through some tips and tricks that you can use to improve your 700R4's performance, starting with the valve body. Part 2 will cover the spacer plate, 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators and check balls, both in the valve body and case.
All the techniques I cover in PT1 and PT2 are possible to do while the transmission is still in the vehicle. An overwhelming majority of shift timing, calibration and overall transmission shift performance is done in areas that are fully accessible without having to remove the transmission so this two-part video series should be helpful for DYI'ers and others just looking to get a little more performance, correct or prevent some common issues out of an otherwise healthy transmission.
PT2 can be found here: • 700R4 Performance Tips...

[@easyjerryl69]

I really like your detailed explanation on the 700R4 !

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you for the kind words, Jerry!

[@hybridmusclegarage4590]

Awesome man!

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks as always, HMG!

[@finfree96]

Great video's and tremendous knowledge. Now I just need your shop location to drop off my Cursed Nightmare of a 700r4 so you can fix it up right! :)

[@nickstransmissions]

Thank you for the kind words, finfree!

[@jenniferkromhout713]

Hi Nick, i have my 1992 GMC Typhoon up on the lift , we just installed a PTC 2,800 converter and Transgo 700 JR shift kit and .500 boost valve in the pump, still have to put the pan back on and fill with fluid etc, i see i this video where you mention fast or slow accumulator fluid release for either e softer of firmer shift, using different springs in the 1-2 accumulator valve, The 4.3 Turbo Typhoon and Syclone's have a corvette (093) servo installed from the factory, My truck only has 20,000 miles on it and transmission shifts great with a very firm 1-2 shift, i did the servo modification, grind the 4 notches and added the blue spring provided in the kit, , OK i used the Black spring on the 1-2 accumulator valve and left the factory white spring on the line bias valve alone As the TransGo instruction Say for "Turbo Syclone" reuse factory spring, On the seperator plate only 2 of the holes were a little smaller than the drill bit so i only had to enlarge 2 of the 4 holes, When i called TranGo the Tech guy said the i basically have a factory performance Transmission, What i do know is GMC used a corvette servo Not sure if they did anything else, Please let me know what you Think, Its only a sport truck, going to mostly cruise and do a few pulls in the street,

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi Jennifer, thank you for watching...Can you expand upon your question a bit? Are you saying the 1-2 shift is too firm?

[@jenniferkromhout713]

Hi Nick this is Walter, must be using My GF's KZbin , No the 1-2 felt fine, Very firm but i like it that way, I just installed a 2,800 converter and Transgo JR kit, i know when you install a higher stall converter you need more line pressure etc, The higher stall converter will soften the shift, The TransGO JR kit doesnt mention anything when it comes the higher stall converters, Before i reinstall the pan and fill with fluid i want to see what you think about a 2,800 stall converter using the Black 1-2 accumulator valve spring provided in the kit and leaving the factory spring on the line bias valve alone like in instructions say , i appreciate your help @@nickstransmissions

[@nickstransmissions]

Ah, gotcha...no worries, Walter...You can install a more aggressive 1-2 accumulator regulator valve spring if you'd like, though the difference is very incremental and by itself, may or may not even be noticeable. I would also consider enlarging the 1-2 feed orifice in the plate, perhaps by another .005 to .010 or so to offset the softening that would otherwise occur from the increase in stall. It make take a couple of iterations to dial it in... Sonnax has an excellent article on feed orifice sizing with a chart that gives you an idea of the effect on shift firmness/speed based on percentage of increase in orifice sizing...I may do a video on this specific topic as it's still not well-covered from what I've seen in general... Sonnax article: www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/223-drilling-orifices-the-smart-way

[@jenniferkromhout713]

Hi nick sounds good Thank you very much for the info, I have another project car I can get into detail if needed , She has a 4L65E and my 1-2, 2-3 shift good and hold strong, She sfifts into 4th and i have the converter locking up in 4th for cruise , She cruises in 4th Fine but if i lay into the throttle even just 25% she will slip, I can not get her to down shift into 3rd etc , The car is supercharged LS2 and makes a lot of power , I do know that 4th can be weak and i never do pulls in 4th gear, But i think she should be able to hold to 25-35% throttle and kick down by my ECM tune, what would cause 4th to slip? in my case i dont believe its the clutches because 3rd holds strong, I do have a aftermarket servo installed and im gut is telling me that its the culprit, But not sure what else would cause 4th to not hold any power, Please Help , Walter@@nickstransmissions

[@nickstransmissions]

Are you still using the stock 4th apply servo and cover or did you upgrade to a billet 4th gear servo like the one Sonnax makes? Have you blocked off the 4th gear accumulator in the case? If no to the above two questions, I'd install the servo kit and block the fourth accumulator off (leave everything out of the 4th acc bore and no need for the 4th acc check ball). Note that when the 3-4 pack begins to get worn, you will often start to experience slippage on the 4-3 downshift or in 4th while cruising before you slip on the 2-3. Not saying that's what's happening here but more of an FYI.

[@tqservices2000]

How do you feel about step cut input shaft seals over solid pieces

[@nickstransmissions]

Either the scarf cut or solid one-piece sealing rings will work...I've used the scarf/stepped cut style in the past and never had an issue. Thank you for watching TQServices!

[@freebirdfor2a7]

I'm doing a ful manual reverse shift TCI kit in a 700r4 (1991) 3200 stall. I've removed the snap ring for the pressure valve but the aluminum "piston" is not dropping out of the pump. The kit has a new one to install but like I said the original won't drop out. Any recommendations on getting that out so I can install the new "piston" and spring??

[@nickstransmissions]

Thanks for watching, freebird...Push the existing boost valve in with a round, flat drift punch a few times until it starts to come out (assuming you haven't gotten it out already).

[@lanabyk8012]

I rebuilt my 1991 4L60 and did some upgrades and modifications. The transmission works but there seems to be a problem. Just before the car comes to a stop, I feel the transmission engage and "pulls" the car to a stop instead of only the brakes making the car stop. Anyone have this kind of experience? Any help in solving this problem would be appreciated. Thank you.

[@nickstransmissions]

Hi John, thank you for watching...I'm wondering if something inside the unit isn't fully releasing upon downshifting or the TCC is partially applied when it shouldn't be... I noticed you put this comment in both of my videos, I'm just going to respond to the other one with "see reply in PT1" so folks don't think I'm ignoring you (or I may delete the other post). Did it do this prior to your rebuild? Did you replace the torque converter?

[@lanabyk8012]

@@nickstransmissions No, the transmission did not do this prior to rebuild. I rebuilt the transmission because I had the opportunity to do so and the car is old, but there was nothing wrong - as far as I could tell. Once I was rebuilding I only found the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator pistons to be bad. I did change out the accumulator piston (with a sonnax double sealed piston) in the auxiliary valve body - but it was in good condition. I did not change the torque converter as it seemed to be in good shape. One of the things I did was to put in a "TECKPAK" orifice cup plug into bleed orifice in the reverse input piston - as recommended in ATSG rebuild manual. Upon slow down, I would say that something is engaging in the transmission to make the car stop. Its not very strong - but definitely noticeable - and only happens just before the car comes to a stop. If I slow down the vehicle over a longer period of time, then I don't feel the engagement. However, you think something isn't fully releasing? What is the TCC and what does it do/ how does it work? I also replaced some parts in valve body... Thank you.

[@nickstransmissions]

Gotcha, I believe I have found the problem - that TECKPAK plug...Don't ever put any of those stupid plugs or any other restrictors in the reverse input piston..Several companies provide them in their shift kits and they all end up in the trash...That piston is perfectly fine the way it is; my guess is that your reverse input clutches are experience partial centrifugal apply, which explains what you're experiencing while driving the vehicle. Also, when you take it out and go through it again, install a new torque converter...NEVER REUSE the converter....They store/retain contaminants that recirculate throughout the freshly rebuilt transmission, contaminating it in the process. Looks like you'll be able to correct both issues once you take it back out.

[@harpin5457]

Hi Sir. I have a 700r4 with full manual VB.... Do I have to keep the governor in?

[@nickstransmissions]

Depends on what manual valve body and/or manual valve body kit is installed. If your VB didn't come with instructions and/or you have no idea, block the weights wide open with something in place of the springs (or tack-weld them) so they are permanently wide open.

[@harpin5457]

@@nickstransmissions I thought of something like that..... I was actually going to take the valve out of the center of the governor, but your idea seems better.... Thanks a million Sir!

[@nickstransmissions]

You're welcome, man - good luck with it!