The Correct way to Replace the Camshaft Synchronizer on a Jeep 4.0L using a Scan Tool.

The only way to set the camshaft synchronizer correctly is by using a scan tool.
LAUNCH X431 V+ PRO Elite 4.0
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New Camshaft Synchronizer Assembly W/Sensor Replacement For Grand Cherokee TJ Wrangler 4.0L 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004, 56041020, 5083881AA, 53010615AA, 53010615AB, 689-200
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[@737mechanic]

LAUNCH X431 V+ PRO Elite 4.0 amzn.to/3RWjeWG New Camshaft Synchronizer Assembly W/Sensor Replacement For Grand Cherokee TJ Wrangler 4.0L 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004, 56041020, 5083881AA, 53010615AA, 53010615AB, 689-200 amzn.to/3FuvcRI

[@calholli]

I had the same thing happen on a 99 Grand Cherokee, that had the 4.0. the magnet fell out of it; and I went ahead and pulled the shaft to double check the timing, and it was off by a tooth, or maybe even two teeth (I forget now). After that it was a pretty bullet proof engine, but the rest of the car was falling apart all over the place. She drove it for a few years, and then luckily someone rammed her in a wal-mart parking lot: who was a journeyman working for plumber.. and That main company owner just bought the wrecked jeep from me. lol.. I was so happy to get my money back and see it go... I can see the appeal of having a 4.0 with a Manual 4x4 though.

[@Amarillobymorning777]

Perfecto Sir .

[@cl0wnbird]

for manual transmission, the engine is a lot easier to handcrank for your TDC search if you have it in neutral. ask me how i know. thanks for the video!

[@clintegbert3405]

I just did mine, i just took off the sensor and looked at where it was and put new one in, in the same placement old one was, did not check for top dead center!! Works great!!!

[@737mechanic]

If you got it close enough, you may not notice any issues. If you ever hook a scan tool to it check and make sure it is within spec and if not tweak it.

[@737mechanic]

@naturalcreature6317 What these do is handle the injector to cylinder sync. You can't just drop them in and think it is set correctly. They need to be set as close to zero as possible using a scan tool. In fact the one problem this jeep had was a low idle to the point that if you let off the gas at low speeds the engine would die and this fixed that problem. Most people think they can drop them in and since the engine seems to start and run everything is good but that is not the case.

[@jodywilliford4048]

@ 737mechanic, do you have to follow this procedure if you are just changing the sensor and not the synchronizer. It's for a 2003 Jeep. tks

[@737mechanic]

No, you can screw the new sensor on and call it a day. It could still be off but as long as you are happy with the way it runs you are good.

[@jodywilliford4048]

@@737mechanic thank you, it's running really rough at the moment. I am wondering if I remove the camshaft sensor and then place the 1st piston at TDC it would solve my issue?

[@737mechanic]

@@jodywilliford4048 I don't know. It could be a num,ber of things. Plugs, coils, injectors.

[@jodywilliford4048]

@@737mechanic Agreed, anyway to to contact you for a private conversation? Just thought maybe TDC may help in case it's a timing issue?

[@737mechanic]

@@jodywilliford4048 [e-mail]

[@calholli]

Interesting. I didn't have a scan tool when I did it. I just did it how the book said, so I'm not even sure if it was "in range" or out of range. It ran well for years though.

[@737mechanic]

The book actually says to connect the DRB to it which is the Chrysler factory scan tool and set it so it says in range and as close to 0 as you can get it. I am not sure what year ranges that covers but I would assume if it had the camshaft synchronizer they would all be the same.

[@calholli]

@@737mechanic It looked exactly the same as yours. I just got it to TDC and then made sure it was lined up towards the rear just like it showed in the pics, and I left it there. It's actually strange, because it still seems to run the same even if it's out of sync, so I don't really see why it's important; if the computer is just going to account for the difference anyway..? I feel like I don't fully understand how it works.

[@737mechanic]

@@calholli I am not exactly sure what it is syncing, the manual says it does not sync the ignition timing, instead it is the fuel sync. I did notice I had to rotate it at least 45 degrees before I started to notice it running bad. But when I set it to 0 that did seem to be the best place.

[@autotek7930]

It sets the fuel injection timing. From what I've read in oe service info anyway

[@calholli]

@@autotek7930 Interesting.. So you probably won't notice it running much different other than extreme adjustments; but I bet you could notice a slightly different gas mileage change; that would be what I would track after getting it calibrated correctly. But I mean, the engine runs just by spraying starter fluid through the intake-- so fuel timing isn't really that important unless you have high compression and were getting pre-detonation issues. In that situation, you could delay the detonation and maximize your compression without using more expensive high octane fuel. Maybe that's what it is doing: if the knock sensor starts pinging, it can retard the fuel timing a bit. Idk, I'd like to watch a video of someone explaining exactly how it works. :)

[@whowho8470]

What will symptoms be if it is out of range? My 05 TJ Sport keeps giving me P0430 camshaft code. I've changed the sensor and the synchronizer but can't remember if we set the range on it or not with our scan tool. I need to double check tmw. This Jeep has ruined two PCMs in the last few years. It also has an ongoing issue where when heavy on the throttle the engine will hesitate quite severely and the whole car will jerk back and forth until you let off the throttle.

[@737mechanic]

A P0430 is catalyst efficiency, P0340 is cam. There is a service bulletin 10-015-09 that addresses this problem but the #1 fix for this problem is a cam sensor the #2 fix is a crank sensor. A 2005 TJ has a slightly different setup than the 2004 and the manual has you do a different procedure for setting the sync.

[@DylanFahey]

Also, check the harness behind your engine for frays, etc.

[@trigun890]

You close to Kansas? I have the same thing going on

[@737mechanic]

I am in Dallas tx.

[@trigun890]

@@737mechanic damn! My little shit box wouldn't make it lol.

[@737mechanic]

@@trigun890 LOL

[@autotek7930]

So I'm looking for a replacement and was wondering what brand to get as there are only aftermarket ones available and I'm not a huge fan of that. Oe always if possible. What do ya'll have experience with or recommend?

[@737mechanic]

So you have a couple different choices, the first is to buy online and save some money but possibly have a hard time getting it warranted IF you have a problem. Or you can buy from a parts house and more than likely they will have a lifetime warranty so you could always get it exchanged if you needed to but you will pay twice the price. This is the one I bought and it is highly rated and after more than a year is still working fine. amzn.to/3u5ZB6V

[@autotek7930]

@@737mechanic I have a commercial account at o'reilly's

[@737mechanic]

@@autotek7930 Their dorman unit comes with lifetime warranty.

[@autotek7930]

@737mechanic ya but have ya'll had good luck with Dorman? That's one brand ice had trouble with tbh. I think I heard they are stepping up their game tho

[@737mechanic]

@@autotek7930 I have used plenty of Dorman products over the years and haven't had a problem but I have heard many people complain. Dorman is probably going to be as good as any other aftermarket product. If you are not sure just order the amazon one at half the price. amzn.to/3u5ZB6V

[@bassfan41]

Do you know if this scanner will do this for a 1999 Grand Cherokee 4.0l?.....And if not, do you know a scanner that will (hopefully for under $800)?

[@737mechanic]

It should do it for any vehicle that has this data pid built into the vehicle's computer. This scan tool has what is called manufacturer-specific capability which means it will display all the manufacturer's data not just EPA OBDII-required data.

[@bassfan41]

@@737mechanic Thanks for your reply. It seems really tough to find a scanner out there that works well with the '99 Chryslers. Autel told me none of there scanners will work and I sent Launch a message asking, but haven't heard any reply . Looks like I may end up taking it to a shop, or even god forbid, the dealer

[@bassfan41]

I've even called a handful of shops, and they're saying they cant do it.

[@737mechanic]

@@bassfan41 That's weird, why cant they do it?

[@mattbird8728]

@737mechanic My guess is that this year requires the DBR3 Scanner to do it. It seems ridiculous to me that a high end scanner can't do this. One of the shops I called is Precision Tune, and they can't do it. Lol. I haven't asked anyone yet why they can't tho. Someone surely can do it, I just have to find the one that has the right scanner I guess. I'll let you know more as I investigate. I'll start asking why. Hopefully Launch will respond, along with a couple other brands I've emailed

[@douglasroberts2250]

would the AutelMaxiCheck MX 808 diagnostic scan tool work ?

[@737mechanic]

Yes it should.

[@joelhardy3069]

I just bought the mk808z and seems like limited functionality for any vehicle older than 2004. Won't give me real time info on my 2000 Cherokee 4.0

[@kles2308]

Do you know of another scan tool that can read that signal for sync that is less cost? $1200 is certainly better than the DRB3 scanner from Chrysler, but don't need all the functions that X431 has...

[@737mechanic]

The xtool D8BT is probably the best deal going. It has a 10 percent off right now also. amzn.to/3Mv7yXS

[@DylanFahey]

I used a Top Don 600s (on sale frequently at amazon). I set up a graph readout so I could watch spark advance and the cam sensor sync.

[@NicholasPaltzer]

​@@DylanFaheyJust to confirm, the TopDon is capable of sending the cam/crank sync signal? Looking for same.....

[@DylanFahey]

@@NicholasPaltzer If you mean monitoring the cam signal, yes. You can adjust while live data is incoming. My Synchonizer would change readings as I tightened it up, so you'll want to keep an eye on it. My other caveat about this whole thing, the closer I got to '0' it would go crazy if I past 0 into negative readings. So, I set mine for 3. It seems to be happy there. No more codes. I could not see through the windshield to see readings, so I had my son read them off to me as I turned the Syncho. Family Times ! ( I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 4.0L)