How a Cam Synchronizer Works

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[@trackaholic]

just changed the synchronizer out on my 05 ranger 3.0 and this helped me understand that as long I marked the old synchronizer and put the new one in the exact same way i’m good to go! car’s running fine and no CEL. at first I only changed the sensor but the CEL came back on after a month so I changed the synchronizer too.

[@realfixesrealfast]

good work, thanks for commenting

[@aeromotivesteampunk4567]

You are a fantastic teacher! Thanks so much for helping so many people, including myself, understand how our engines work.

[@joebourgoin6554]

Thank you so much for this I have a Jeep that's been sitting for a long time that I'm going to prime the oil pump on to help prevent startup wear. Now I can do it without worrying about messing up the sensor alignment since I learned how it works. Big help!

[@ignaciorduarte4937]

These videos are essential for a person with my experience with auto mechanic.

[@fenris3394]

Great video. I really like knowing how and why something works when I'm fixing stuff. Thanks.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Thanks for posting this one. I'm very familiar with distributors, but not so much with this "new" stuff. Now I understand one more part of a modern system. Thanks! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

[@brandona7876]

Thanks for your time, good teacher.

[@antegas]

Thank very much. Merry Christmas! I will continue follow your videos.

[@eddiesalzano]

Best explanation on this piece. Thank you! Very helpful was going nuts worrying if I had the degree perfect. Ha!

[@jake7027]

Thank you so much, I have a 99 ranger that needs a new synchronizer, and I’m a young dude who’s not super mechanically inclined. So given this was timing based I was super concerned about how and what to mark and the Hanes manual and KZbin wasn’t much help. But after a bunch of searching I found your video and you put it so clearly and concisely how it works and how to install it. Truly thank you sir.

[@realfixesrealfast]

Thanks for commenting. You can do it, just go slow and think before you act.

[@HardlineHunter]

fantastic video, very helpful. thank you from australia!

[@fieldsofomagh]

Well executed video. God bless for the New Year and Happy Christmas.

[@stephenjones271]

This was very informative, excellent reference. Only thing that was confusing was the use of different offsets in Degrees. Thanks

[@timothysmith3311]

Very informative thank you for your knowledge

[@vahikshah335]

Thank you so much for helping people. Thank you sir. God bless you.

[@brandunmaggard2290]

This is the best video out there on this specific issue. I think I may have a bad synchronizer with the wobbly internals. Iv wasted so much time. Wish I would have seen this first. Awesome video.

[@tykendrick800]

One of the best videos out there 👍👍

[@spelunkerd]

My prior experience with distributors interfered with understanding your key point. I kept wondering how I was going to get it exact at 15 degrees. Then I suddenly had that 'aha moment' when I realized that 15 degrees doesn't matter, it's cosmetic so the wires don't get stretched. The critical part is done by the holding tool, which freezes the synchronizer at its own TDC. With cyl #1 at TDC and the synchronizer at the closest magnetic point, the unit is in time regardless of which teeth mesh together down below.

[@daddychitown]

Great information so much detail

[@supportourpriests]

I almost never click the like button on any youtube video, however, this one is so good I had to do it and post this comment. Clear and to the point. The icing on the cake for me: he uses a Ford Ranger part, the same car I own.

[@strokewarrior5762]

Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to comment

[@Diagnosedan]

Dwayne is mad he was not invited for your Christmasvideo🤣😂😁🎄

[@joshcoker88]

Thank you just replaced cam synchro on a ranger 3.0, this video helped a bunch

[@realfixesrealfast]

Thanks for letting me know

[@katrosper]

thank you

[@mmajordan6434]

You are the best of the best thanks a lot👌🤲🏻

[@realfixesrealfast]

Thanks, glad they help

[@levitezoe1804]

Old shcool never fails ty sir

[@danielporter892]

Very thorough,,Thank you!

[@chocolatetampon4492]

So what if you put it in wrong how do you find top dead center and correct the timing?

[@nathanrspain]

Very cool

[@sorrowcat2724]

I’ve had one of these fail on my 2003 Ranger. No warning, the bushing inside the syncronizer just decided to fail abruptly. I was going 65 mph, lost all steering, brakes, engine died- everything. It’s crazy how important these syncronizers actually are, despite their obvious flaws.

[@coreybabcock2023]

I have the 4.2 l V6 Essex engine and never used the tool to get it right I just used the witness mark's on the hold down washer

[@ykmalachi]

I am currently doing plugs and wireset on a 2003 ranger with while watching this.

[@blackout260112]

I have a 99 ranger 3.0, does the cam shaft synchro run the oil pump? Do I have to remove the oil pump if the shaft or gear breaks?

[@SuperTambo69]

excellent video. So, really you dont even need the tool, as long as the tang points middle of the recess at #1 TDC. I giess the tool makes it easy to keep it in place while fiddling to install it and trying to mesh with gears

[@realfixesrealfast]

yes, the tool just makes it easier

[@tomasparrarenteria7474]

Muchísimas gracias por su video ojalá y se pudiera traducir a español

[@scottbrink9961]

Dosnt it have to be TDC on compression stroke or does that reslly matter

[@nicholasnagy2848]

Fantastic video! Question. Is top dead center on the intake or exhaust stroke?

[@realfixesrealfast]

It could be either one

[@NewLevelAuto]

Hardest man to get a hold of I tell ya

[@ozzstars_cars]

New Level Auto ;-)

[@mandymoonstar2680]

I just had a Camshaft position sensor and synchronizes put on my car. 2002 Mercury Sable. The car was jerking and stalling. The car is worse than ever and I can't drive it. Same issue. Car was towed to the mechanic twice. Then he said my fuel pump relay was running hot. I put in a new one of those. Car still doing the same thing. ANY IDEAS??????

[@seanissofresh]

How do you make sure the engine is at top dead center ?

[@stephen6945]

So from what I gather, it doesn't matter if the angle is slightly off- as long as the window notch is lined up with the spinning metal piece at TDC on the compression stroke, it'll work regardless?

[@realfixesrealfast]

yes, as long as your not off by 180 degrees.

[@tjwall5917]

How do you get the engine to top dead center

[@complot72]

Great video, but he failed to mention that you want the compression TDC. Not the exhaust TDC. He has another video which shows how to find TDC of #1 by simply removing the #1 spark plug. So, in a way, this video is incomplete. In the other video, he used a cylinder compression gauge hose to feel for the air being pushed out. There is a big difference when you feel for the air being pushed out between the compression and exhaust cycle. I simply use my finger and fully plug the #1 spark plug hole after removing the spark plug. There are only three cycles. Intake, compression, and exhaust. During the intake cycle, I feel a suction. During the compression cycle, I can't keep the air from coming out due to the extreme pressure. And during the exhaust cycle, I feel pressure but it is weak because the exhaust valve opens and the air exits that way. So, if done right, you won't mix which TDC is the compression which is the one you want. Hope this helps.

[@jazzmeup1]

He explained that it does not matter what stroke the engine is on starting at 5:00 and on to specificity at 5:16. Have to follow the procedures he defined while the engine is at TDC. If old school distributor, I definitely agree on what you said on being on compression stroke!

[@eagleguy007]

Mark the old before you pull it out. Mark the new one and drop in... you make it hard

[@SuperTambo69]

hes explaining how they work

[@crispincoleman]

Does it matter if it's at top dead center on compression or exhaust stroke or can it be either one as long as the piston is TDC?

[@realfixesrealfast]

as long as its tdc the cranks sensor will tell the pcm which stroke its on

[@AU10ZC]

Cam sync tells the ECU to fire injectors on the next cycle. Get that wrong. And you will fire them on a closed valve. Engine will run rougher at low rpm as the fuel is pooling up behind the closed valve.

[@claytonstill2385]

So what happens if you take one out and put it back in a slightly different position

[@gooftroopg2623]

Misfiring

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

So it does not matter which TDC you use? It could be no 1 at compression or no 1 exhaust. If that is wrong I would expect the engine to run however it may be injecting fuel at the wrong time?

[@complot72]

No, he has another video which shows how to find TDC of #1 by simply removing the #1 spark plug. So, in a way, this video is incomplete. In the other video, he used a cylinder compression gauge hose to feel for the air being pushed out. I understand what you are saying, but there is big difference when you feel for the air being pushed out between the compression and exhaust cycle. I simply use my finger and fully plug the spark plug hole. There are only three cycles. Intake, compression, and exhaust. During the intake cycle, I feel a suction. During the compression cycle, I can't keep the air from coming out due to the extreme pressure. And during the exhaust cycle, I feel pressure but it is weak because the exhaust valve opens and the air exits that way. So, if done right, you won't mix which TDC is the compression which is the one you want.

[@adriancastro6827]

Hector Ramirez thank you so much for that, made so much sense to me, I didn’t know that there were different cycles, I thought as soon as the #1 piston was at the top it was TDC didn’t know it had to be a certain cycle for TDC no wonder my cam synchro is off and engine is running bad, appreciate it!

[@lsvPEANUT]

Shouldn’t it be #1 @ TDC on the compression stroke? 🤔🤔

[@lsvPEANUT]

Good video btw

[@johnfarrar6715]

BTDC means before TDC. ATDC means after TDC. I have never heard the term "beyond top dead centet"

[@rikkmalloy7892]

Why am I not getting a signal to my fuel injectors,I’ve replaced my camshaft synchronizer and my noid light is not flashing. Please help me with this situation thank you

[@realfixesrealfast]

Anyone would need a lot more information than this to pinpoint exactly why. VIN, history, symptoms, data, etc, etc. If noid is not flashing, and if the PCM is good, there must not be a command signal. Are you getting a crank signal ? Can you fore the injectors manually ? Is all the wiring good ?

[@marianomruiz]

Can you put a distributor in place of the synchronizer? I plan to buy a 2001 explorer 302

[@realfixesrealfast]

no, because nothing to "control" the ignition, plus the ECM will be looking for but not seeing the sync signal. Probably won't start

[@marianomruiz]

@@realfixesrealfast i should had been more specific. I just care about making sure it fits and the rotor turns in sync with the cylinders. I will handle the EFI using a throttle body injection EFI system.

[@gregbanuelos1494]

What happens if you don’t put it at top dead center ? Just pulled marked the top of the synchronizer as a reference, yanked it out, marked the new one then I slammed dunked the new one in the same position if not it’s pretty close to the same position

[@ScottysVise]

Did that work for you, and what engine do you have?

[@gregbanuelos1494]

@@ScottysVise yes it worked for me I have a 1998 ford ranger with the 3.0 and it now runs like a 65 cobra with a 427 hahaha

[@AnonymousReturns333]

​@@gregbanuelos1494so you don't have to put it on top dead center? Can i just take the old one out and put the new one in?

[@gregbanuelos1494]

@@AnonymousReturns333 so when I did my ford ranger, I did not find top dead center. When I pulled the synchronizer cap off I marked the top part synchronizer shaft and I marked the block and I also took a picture of it so when I pulled it out, I had something to reference. basically the same way I pulled out the old synchronizer shaft is the same way I put in the new one.

[@AnonymousReturns333]

@@gregbanuelos1494 thanks for replying I will be replacing mine tomorrow 👍

[@djmajiktuch82]

So, if this camshaft synchronizer begins to fail will it give you pre ignition and detonation?

[@kamryn7496]

That’s what I wonder my engine is pinging under load I clan the egr valve new plugs wires it still pings I wonder if my camshaft synchronizer is worn

[@djmajiktuch82]

@@kamryn7496 mine actually slowed down by simply changing the octane on the fuel it uses. According to my 2001 3.0 v6 engine and manual it wants 87 octane instead of 86 octane. The area I live in doesn't have 87 but only offers 88 so, I been using 88 and it seems to help.

[@kamryn7496]

@@djmajiktuch82 yours was having preignition detention to? Over here in New Mexico we just have 86 or 88 to I found a gas station that had e15 flex fuel witch was 93 octane I been using that an that seem to help for awhile but now it’s just pinging load again an it’s getting annoying an I check an went threw everything can’t figure it out

[@drmoooto]

question? can you be 180deg off at TDC?

[@joesmart1236]

It has to be on the compression stroke number 1 plug or you're 180 out

[@blackout260112]

I lost oil pressure completely according to the dash.

[@rbell7666]

02 mustang with 135K, just put in sycronizer #5!!!. #4 took out the drive gear on the front of the camshaft AND there are no parts for it available in the world. None, unless you can go to pick 'n pull. If I every find another one in the junkyard I am going to put it on E-bay for $100. IF I didn't know about auto mechanics I would have had to junk the car.

[@frap6790]

Merry Christmas to all of you at realfixesrealfast!

[@realfixesrealfast]

Thank You, and to you as well.

[@GalpaoV8]

hello my friend, i have a question, i unpluged my Cam Synchronizer and the engine is runing much beter, how ??? lol congratulations for the vids

[@strokewarrior5762]

when you unplug it you also remove it's input to the PCM, it then reverts to base timing. Probably will run better at idle but not above idle

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

That is wrong, the cam sensor on sends a voltage at the beginning of the rotation, so it has to be inserted so your not in the middle of the beginning and end. Using the tool sets the cam rod at the the start, but the degree you inser it matters. There is 10 teeth, divided by 360 degrees equals about 36 degrees. The illustration shows the degree exactly. If your off one tooth , because it's about 36 degrees you will notice it optically, then pull it out and move forward and back until the sensor looks like the diagram. It turns 15 degrees putting it in , but considering that , match to the illustration, because if it's wrong it will be noticeable . The 2 imaginary lines are the crankshaft center and the front face of engine, making a cross x y axis. There are 4 quadrants equaling 90 degrees each. So if your one tooth off on the cam sensor, that equals about 36 degrees of 90 degrees., it will show because it's 1 third off . There is only about 3 teeth in 90 degrees, maybe 4. So if your off, it will not match the diagram illustration, because of the approximate 36 degree off.the cam sensor cannot move while in the bore, or it will throw the timing off. All you can do is just keeping reinserting the cam sensor by moving it clockwise or counter clockwise a couple of teeth. There is no way to measure 54 degrees, but assuming each tooth is like 36 degrees, you can eye ball it.until the cam sensor is positioned like the illustration. Being off only one tooth forward or back will not look like the diagram axis no matter what the engine will be in time, but what you want is for the fuell injector to always squirter at TDC, ADVANCED OR RETARDED DEPENDING ON SITUATIONS. My writing is terrible, but yes the cam sensor has to be tilted the tight amount of degrees, because if it's not you will be advanced or retarded from TDC for the fuel injection not the timing

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

I just saw a video from a hot rod guy timing a ford 4.2 litre, but I apologize I did a terrible job of explaining

[@cantwaitkid]

I agree that this is not for engine timing. Engine timing is more accurately controlled by the crankshaft sensor; hence there are aftermarket crankshaft pickup sensors available. The CAMshaft position sensor needs to "see" where the CAMshaft is because the valve needs to be open at the correct time to inject fuel for that particular cylinder. So therefore it is very critical that the synchronizer is "stabbed" in the correct position to be able to rotate the synchronizer housing to to catch the signal at TDC when the vane blocks or opens for signal.

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

Yes that is it, your right

[@ozzstars_cars]

Repeat Dwayne?

[@realfixesrealfast]

I had to make a correction so I fixed it and then re-uploaded it

[@NewLevelAuto]

realfixesrealfast how does one contact you ?

[@realfixesrealfast]

my email is [e-mail]

[@rusco321]

New Level Auto how does one contact you is the question?

[@moiesdossantos8965]

.