80 Series Land Cruiser driveshaft noise

[@thomaslapointe4671]

Great Content, Commentary, Awesome Tips, Righteous Video Sir Thank You

[@regardtkenny6107]

Great video! I've got a noise as I pull away. It's sort of a metallic ping noise as I pull away. I've got a feeling it's a similar situation than what you faced. Will take it apart and have a look at it

[@heftymerv]

I have something like this in mine, not all the time though.

[@heftymerv]

Hopefully this will solve my issue too, I have a sort of cluck, sort of let go sort of feeling when taking off. All bushes have been changed and now the uni's, which has sort of made it a little worse, though it goes away after a few K's or when warmed up. Thanks for sharing this too...

[@daniels5709]

Well for $3600 for a rear prop shaft I think I’ll try this first! Haha thanks mate. Hope it works.

[@paulbogdonoff4814]

Thank you, Thankyou, Thankyou!!!! I’ve been chasing this for two years and unfortunately spent unneeded money on a differential that have that if any one needs one. Mine was mint, and sitting in a bucket of oil. I used Marine grade never seize and applied as instructed in video. Pumped new grease thru u-joints until all old was flushed. Clunk is Gone👍👍👍. Now anyone got any suggestions on leaf spring clunking on turns, replaced spacers and greased all leafs and still get clunking when turning at slow speed.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Paul Bogdonoff glad we were able to help! Thanks for watching!

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

@Esau Gaznabbi cold, as in the engine is not running and it’s that high? Or cold, as in the engine is running and you’ve shifted it through the gears and it still shows that high? The groaning noise would take more diagnosis to figure out. If you’ve installed a center diff lock switch, you could remove one drive shaft and lock the transfer case diff and drive it to see if the noise is still present. Then put that drive shaft back in and remove the other and do the same thing. That would tell you if it’s a front or rear differential or possibly even the transfer case. You’d have to have the center diff switch to be able to do that. Hope that helps.

[@jailbreakoverlander]

I just got the clunk too, after doing front ring pinion and rear bearings in 9.5 AND got a vibration from maybe moving pinion angle with hyperflex arms. I did a lot at once, but got her home from colorado with several issues at once.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

JailBreak Overlander wow! I’m surprised you got a vibration. You’re running the Hyperflex arms along with Tom Wood driveshafts right?

[@aarongordon5571]

You just solved my problem thanks mate from Australia

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Aaron Gordon glad we could help!👍

[@modvs1]

Check this thread, over greasing seems to be the consensus: forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-official-clunk-thunk-driveshaft-thread.401590/

[@guitar14]

Wise words.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Thanks for watching!

[@Bmaenpaa2]

Completely fixed my issue. Thanks for the video...

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Glad we could help!

[@crisvaldeeznuts]

Life saver!

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Cristobal Valdez thanks for watching!

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

I'll be doing this today Replaced all my u-joints with factory. That solved a lot of issues. After putting on Delta radius arms and a full Dobinson 3-inch lift with all brand new bushings I have a vibration right about 25 miles that's very annoying. I believe my splines are hydrolocked because not knowing better at pump them full of grease. I'm going to separate, clean, and regressed with acid brush using my normal Chevron grease gun grease today to see if this helps

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Timothy Hull we hope it works out for you. Thanks for watching!

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding I noticed that my new Toyota factory u-joints only two of the bearing grease caps will let grease out. I need to look into how to loosen the grease caps a bit, no play though. I did notice my slip yoke has a little bit of planet so I'm going to call Mercedes tomorrow and see if I can order some of that grease! I may also consider a new Toyota drive shaft when the time comes it's not so bad that the need is immediate

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Timothy Hull if Mercedes doesn’t have the paste, you can contact a GM dealer and ask them too. The late 90’s and early 2000’s trucks had an issue with the driveshaft clunking while putting it in gear. Same issue as the splines were slightly loose in the yoke. They had a lube that they would put on the splines as well. 👍

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding awesome thanks!!!

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding I jus at called Mercedes and ordered 3, the guy at Mercedes said it might be a 1 time use foil pack, at $3.50 each I played it safe with 3, 1 for each yolk and a spare. Thanks 👍

[@Outdoor-adventures-New-zealand]

Hi fella my 80 series has developed a low droneimg vibration under load most noticeable around 90kph it’s a very fast humming vibration if you take your foot off accelerator it stops but comes back as soon as it’s under load .. it’s not wheels defanitly somewhere in the drive line .. also has a seperate issue if you pump or jerk the accelerator it has a loud clunk in there somewhere also Cheers Craig

[@summersifysummers4702]

Mine has the exact same issue. Been chasing it for 2 years. Began after having U joints rear u joints replaced. Its been driving me bananas! Hope we find a a solution. Cheers!

[@jamesbailey2213]

Did you figure this out yet? Mine does exactly this…

[@Bmaenpaa2]

Outstanding video. Unfortunately, I only hear clunking when I am decelerating at slow speeds. If I give it throttle, no noise. Take my foot off, clunk, clunk, clunk...I replaced U-Joints, greased everything again. Can't seem to get rid of it. If I drive around without the front drive shaft, it's gone. Then I operate the front end diff off the ground and it's quite too. Part of the joys of an old truck. Thanks anyway. I'll get some of that grease for next time...

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Brian Maenpaa sorry we couldn’t help. Thanks for watching and good luck!

[@nolz262]

Check your cvs

[@carlo5608]

Hey mate did you solve this

[@OKellyP]

Often the Clunck from the front of the drive shaft is caused by over greasing.. :D yes I've been there and done that, replaced the shaft etc etc

[@rafaelfrenzel263]

Hey mate I’ve got that same clunk, thinking about using that grease as well or buying a whole new drive shaft. How long did it fix those clunks for you? Cheers!

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

It worked for quite some time. To be honest, I’m not sure as to how long it will last as I got into the routine of greasing the splines every couple of oil changes.

[@paulbayly5890]

Interesting comment about the rear shaft phasing. Where did you get that information. On my 1997 FZJ80 I just found the front shaft is 90deg out of phase and the rear is in phase so I'd like to sort it all out properly.

[@LiveTheMastersWay]

I have a 02 Lx470 there is a clunk when putting the vehicle in gear. A fairly significant sound. Can’t tell if it is in the front or rear. I’m experiencing outer tire wear on the front and have had it to a least 4 alignment shops that said it’s aligned and suspension etc is good. Curious if there is play in the front and it’s semi all wheel drive if that could be the tire wear issue.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Daniel Collier the clunking noise could be anything from engine and transmission mounts to suspension and driveline components. The easiest thing to do is get it on jack stands and start twisting and shaking everything down. The outside tire wear is usually indicative of bad alignment angles. Depending on how the tire is wearing, smooth, cupped or feathered, could indicate an issue with toe and camber settings. Those are the main causes of tire wear. Caster and thrust angles will cause a pull or a drift one way or another and cause wear by you steering the opposite way to correct. Look at your print out and make sure all of your readings are as close as possible to the middle of the respective specified ranges. Alignment shops have a tendency to adjust so the angles are in spec, also known as in the “green”, but not taking into account what the angles are doing to each other. They also should’ve shook down the suspension looking for play in the components. If there is play in any of the suspension and they performed an alignment, it’ll be garbage. The alignment settings will not hold. Hope that helps. 👍

[@AnthonyBattagliaPTE]

What about a "thunk" on a 100 series cruiser (2002) that only occurs immediately when shifting into Drive or Reverse? Same issue? Or something else?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Anthony Battaglia could be the same issue, but I’d check the transmission and engine mounts as well. Can you reproduce the noise by holding the break pedal and pressing on and off of the accelerator pedal in gear? If you hear a thunk noise then, it’s most likely a mount. Doing it in drive will check one engine mount and in reverse will check the other side. If it only happens when you move the selector between drive and reverse with no accelerator input, then you could have play in the drive shaft, diff, transfer case, so on. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@sebastiandelamare2326]

Hi Guys, I have a Toyota Hilux and appear to have a similar problem, it either bangs when braking or as u take foot off brake after braking. 2013 Hilux ??

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Sebastian de la Mare unfortunately they’re a little rare here in the states, so I can’t say that I’ve ever taken a close look under one. I’d imagine that the drivetrain design is pretty much the same as the Land Cruiser though. Sorry I can’t help more. Thanks for watching!

[@craigmesler7162]

Great video. Would you want to do this to both rear and front driveshafts or just the rear?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

I’ve only had to do it to the rear shaft myself. Thanks for watching!

[@040mobil]

My FSM states the front shaft be out of phase not the rear. Did you find information to the contrary?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

You are correct. It’s actually the front shaft that is supposed to be out of phase. I misspoke in the video. The most important thing is to remember to mark the shaft before separation to ensure proper reassembly. I looked through my FSM again and couldn’t find any mention of the phasing, but I know that everyone I’ve looked under, its always been the front shaft that is out of phase. Thanks for your comment and for watching!

[@adewamantai605]

Hi Family Adventures Overlanding, I have a 06 lx470. It starts to make a light continuous rumbling noise underneath when I accelerate to 35mph. only when it's in gear. and there's no vibration.does this indicate a lack of lubrication?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Adew Amantai I would definitely try to grease and lube everything first to rule that out. After that, I would probably start looking at mounts for the drivetrain and possibly the bearings in the diffs and or transfer case. It may require a vehicle lift to locate the noise, since it only happens on acceleration. Thanks for watching!

[@1234lakay]

Thanks for the video .. mine just started to make the noise . It’ only happen from full stop and sit for a while then when u go it starts to make noise just for a bit then disappear?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

1234lakay ours started off only making the thump noise when leaving from a complete stop, but progressed to making noise any time we quickly let off or got back onto the accelerator pedal.

[@andy-thebodyforge2904]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding was this a single clunk or was it ever multiple clunks? Thanks

[@greatpariscars]

Love my clunk.

[@BillyGoatsAdventures]

Picking up mercedes grease today, it's gray and looks moly fortified, and chance this would be good wheel bearing grease??? The Mercedes-Benz parts guy and I did not know what the volume of one of these grease cans was so I ordered three needless to say I have a lot extra 🍻🤣

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

It’s thicker than wheel bearing grease. It’s a paste.

[@josephrayen6293]

Hey did the noise come on when driving and then stop? Mine keeps making a rattling noise and goes away, I keep driving a couple more Kms and it comes back again.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

joseph rayen no, this noise was only present after coming to a stop and then accelerating. Would be a loud thump noise and could be felt through the floor and seat.

[@ShorewardBuildersWestPerth]

Anyone know where to get hands on this grease these days? Or an alternative?

[@lady5216]

I have a question my car started making a funky noise when I’m reversing turning left. I wonder if that’s the problem?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

It’s possible, but it would be difficult to determine just based on the info you’ve provided. You’d have to narrow it down further. If you lock your center diff lock, you can remove the rear driveshaft and drive it like a front wheel drive to see if it still makes the noise, to see if it is coming from the rear driveshaft for sure. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@liamkingswell6317]

Hi there I have an hdj81, I just wondering what symptoms u had and what kind of noises?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Certainly, it was a loud thump noise in the floor board area every time I accelerated from a stop. I would’ve sworn it was a bad bushing or link, but ended up being this. I also noticed it at times when coming to an abrupt stop and then releasing the brake pedal and rolling forward. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@ArifKhan-cv4eq]

Hey. I too have that clunking noise on my Samurai. What I want to know is that, would the clunking noise come if the front differential flange to the drive shaft is loose?

[@SEEKANDDESTROY717]

I have a rotational clunk up until about 15 mph is this the same clunk or a different clunk than you had

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

That’s a different clunk. The one I had was immediately after coming to a stop or letting off the brake to accelerate. It was only one loud clunk each time.

[@SEEKANDDESTROY717]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding thanks for the reply...I guess my search continues 🤦🏻

[@emmanuelalbert2929]

Did the starter gear lube solve the problem??

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

The only way to permanently solve the issue is to replace the driveshaft, but this is a lot cheaper and effectively lubricates and takes up the excess clearance. It works very well, but will have to be done once the noise returns. I usually did it as an yearly maintenance item.

[@emmanuelalbert2929]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding cheers mate thanks for the reply..anything to save money and DIY.

[@jessilooney2444]

how is the driveshaft supposed to be out of phase cause im pretty sure its not mine was out on my nissan hardbody and was vibrating everywere so i had to put it back in phase no more vibration

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Jessi Looney it was specifically designed that way by the factory. Every one I’ve been under is that way.

[@jeffm5007]

I have been trouble shooting the worst clanking, clunking sound ever. 07 4runner V8. One shop said it was the T case. But you can hear and feel the noise more directly under the pedal. Can I send you a short clip of the sound? Thanks

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Sorry, I don’t have a clip of the sound. We sold our Land Cruiser a couple of years ago. The clunk could most definitely be felt in the floor of the truck when it occurred.

[@andy-thebodyforge2904]

Hi is this just a single clunk or anyone have multiple clunks when under load

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Andy Duffy typically it was just one loud thump. But occasionally there was a second one. Thanks for watching!

[@reconciledman2634]

Ugh 🙄, drive shaft in phase/out of phase? Crap I just pulled mine out of my 96 T100 4x4 and didn’t know about this. Now what? Doing U-joints. 350,000 miles.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

As far as I know, that driveshaft should be in phase. I would double check the factory service manual or search online to be sure. www.ih8mud.com/ is usually a good place to find both. 👍

[@reconciledman2634]

Family Adventures Overlanding wow thank you for your reply!! You’re so good.

[@reconciledman2634]

Well that link just brings me to annoying places that want me to take surveys and stuff.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Reconciled Man sorry. It should’ve been www.ih8mud.com/

[@vincentellem9747]

Front yoak on drive shaft hows it come off thanks mate

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Vincent Ellem you can take it completely off by taking the 16mm bolts loose on the flange. I used to do that and then separate it on the bench, but I’ve found it somewhat quicker to just leave it in place on the transfer case. Hope that helps!

[@vincentellem9747]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding Thank u.

[@andimahendra2625]

Hi, i got a vibration problem with my vx80 automatic, it started around 1800 - 2100 rpm on all gears. Do you think this is a drive shaft out of balance problem or a transmission problem? Thanks.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

It could definitely be related to your driveshaft, but don't rule out tires, wheels, etc.. Some things to think about before you start looking. Does it only happen at that RPM or is it Speed Dependent? Is the vibration only there while accelerating or does it continue after lifting your foot off of the accelerator? Does it still happen if you put the truck into neutral as soon as you feel the vibration? Can you make the vibration occur by holding the brake in gear and pressing the accelerator pedal until the rpm's reach 1800-2100? Does going between Drive and reverse cause and clunk or slop? Tire vibrations and bent wheels are usually speed dependent more than RPM. So pay close attention to whether it's at a specific speed range or really just that RPM range. Vibrations that are at specific RPM ranges are usually related to engine mounts, drive shafts, transmission/transfer cases and possibly even engine related. The driveshafts can be ruled out by taking one out, locking the center diff and test driving. By doing this, you're essentially making your truck a front wheel drive only or rear wheel drive only. Do this for each shaft, one at a time. This is so only one shaft is in use at a time and you're not picking up the harmonics of the other shaft. If the vibration goes away with one shaft removed, then the shaft that is out is the issue. If the vibration is still there with either shaft removed, then I'd look further into the transmission/transfer case, engine and so on. Engine vibrations are usually due to bad engine/transmission mounts. Also, don't forget to rule out load dependent vibrations, like a misfire due to bad spark plugs or ignition wires. These typically start showing up under heavy load and can sometimes be ruled out by lifting off of the accelerator pedal and seeing if the vibration goes away. Engine mounts can look good, but if the center portion is really close to the outer mount housing, it could be an issue. A lot of times they can be diagnose by prying the engine/transmission up with a prybar and looking at the rubber. Otherwise you can place the truck in gear and brake torque it by holding the brake pedal and depressing the accelerator pedal to see if you feel a bump/clunk. I know this is probably a lot of information and I hope it all makes sense. Feel free to ask any other questions you may have and I'll try to help as much as I can. Good luck and thanks for watching!

[@andimahendra2625]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding Thanks for your reply. I think it is RPM dependent. Vibration occurs when under load, acceleration. If i reduce the acceleration, the vibration goes away at that specific RPM. If I put more acceleration, it comes back. So I need to be very slow when accelerating at those RPM ranges, OR turn off O/D so it downshifted to 3rd gear and RPM goes to 2700. I went to the service shop and yes they confirmed that my drive shaft's splines are already worn out. So now i'm trying to find a new drive shaft. I would like to try the mercedes lube like the one you used, but do you think that would help?..Thanks.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

You could always give it a try. I’m sure a service center would deduce that my shaft is worn as well, since it exhibits a vibration from time to time. The splines will always have some play between them so they can hold grease and slide along one another. I’d say go for it. If you didn’t want to do the M.B. grease, you could always just take it a part. Clean the splines and hand pack the splines with regular grease and put it back together. Just make sure that you fully compress the shaft while pressing in on the grease zerk so you don’t create a different vibration. At least you could drive it quick and see if the vibration is gone or at least better, before you spend the money on the M.B. grease.

[@benjaminmcdaniel1218]

It appears your shaft is one tooth misaligned so that the u-joints are not perfectly aligned. Is that correct?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Benjamin McDaniel no, the marks I made on the shaft are aligned. I think it was more of the angle of the camera. The rear driveshaft is supposed to be out of “phase” as compared to a regular vehicle. For some reason Toyota decided to do this. The front driveshaft however, is supposed to be in “phase”.

[@benjaminmcdaniel1218]

Family Adventures Overlanding thanks for the clarification. However, in the spirit of being helpful it is actually the front shaft that is out of phase.

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Benjamin McDaniel thanks for correcting me. 👍

[@ben2long97]

anyone have a link for the starter lube?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Sorry, I do not. It's a Mercedes Benz starter lube. The part number is shown on the container in the video. It's not a cheap lube, but it works the best out of any that I've tried. Sorry for the late replay. Thanks for watching!

[@040mobil]

@@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding Wurth has the equivilent "MOS50s" Phase/out of phase debate.....96 97 viscous cases have the front shaft out of phase as per the fsm,

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

040mobil thank you for sharing that information. Thanks for watching!

[@karlsanchez1358]

Why put ads dude?

[@modvs1]

Check this thread, over greasing seems to be the consensus (what say thee?): forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-official-clunk-thunk-driveshaft-thread.401590/

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

modvs1 I’ve seen that thread before, when I was attempting to track down the noise the first time. I’ve found the info to be pretty good on Mud. This is one instance though, where I had to run round and round with it. My driveshaft showed no signs of visible movement at the slip yoke. I had greased it as per Mud instructions a handful of times to no avail. Once I switched the type of grease, everything came out fine.

[@modvs1]

By "clunk" do you mean a "metal on metal" sound or the feeling of rebound (backlash) upon pulling up sharp and taking off (usually down hill)?

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

modvs1 felt through the body on acceleration from a stop at times. Only showed itself of I came to a rather fast stop and then let off the brake to roll forward or accelerated. That’s why I spent so much time chasing the suspension first. I had already installed new unjoints and had the shafts inspected by a driveline shop.

[@modvs1]

I just bought a Hilux (1gr-fe) which I believe has the same engine/transmission combo as an FJ (Prado, numerous Cruisers, Tacomas, 4Runners,..?). I noticed the rebound sensation on sharp stops (slip joint play). Loads of internet searching suggests a polarisation between over-greasing and under-greasing. I've been ginger with it and only added 4-5 squirts (via zerk/nipple) at a time. Maybe 10-12 squirts later I've got it down very small, almost unnoticeable amount of play on a sharp stop. As suggested, I unscrewed the zerk, but nothing oozed out. It's starting to bother me a bit. Can you please provide a link to the grease you used? Cheers!

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

modvs1 it’s a starting gear lube for Mercedes Benz. The part# 000 989 76 51. It’s made by Castrol and is called Optimol Paste part# 08452 216. Here’s a link. www.mbpartscenter.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-paste-0009897651

[@RobertCarrizal]

what's is that for lube it is anti-sieze????

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Bob Carrizal it’s actually a lube that Mercedes Benz uses. It’s like anti-seize, but it’s a lot thicker. The part number is written on the side of my little container in the video. It’s the best thing I’ve found to solve this issue for any period of time.

[@RobertCarrizal]

Thank You Very Much!

[@RobertCarrizal]

when i brought it for anti-seize just $9.95 at autozone

[@FamilyAdventuresOverlanding]

Robert Carrizal you can definitely try that. I did and it didn’t last very long. Anti-seize is a much thinner paste compared to the lube I used in this video.