80 SERIES steering wobble

[@patrollocal]

It could be worth checking for any runout in your steelies if you haven't already. It's common for a particular wheel manufacturer to produce rims with off centre stud holes and if the rims aren't hub centric, they will forever shake.

[@benv7670]

im chasing a minor one like this on my 76...the best thing i got told to do was panhard rod bushes and tyre balance/rotation. Very similar setup to yours. That 80's body is super clean but well done

[@SIDETRACKED]

Absolutely mate, those should be checked by a professional before doing something like this.

[@dijm8]

been running this same shock for a few months now on the patrol, very nice, best on the market i reckon

[@tren1hdt408]

Got the exact same slight wobble at 80-100kmh. Gets more pronounced when you be a bit of pressure on the steering wheel.

[@mattluszczak8095]

Panhard bushes, ball joints, swivel preload. Wheel bearings tightness. Steering shaft worn or loose

[@garyrawcliffe6124]

That steering wobble has nothing to do with your steering dampener. You're just masking the problem.

[@maverick2242]

Have you adjusted the steering box, its pretty common for this is need adjusting and makes a huge difference, but before that, wheel balanced wheel alignment, tire rotation, off-roading affects this depending on where how you drive, what loads etc etc. Maintenance neglection is the biggest issue with this problems, sure a steering damper wears out as well, but I always look to common basics before throwing money at the latest product on the market. Panhard rod bushes' for those who haven't upgraded theirs wear out on these things as well, keep in context these are 30 year cars, its just standard, 2" lift above if the panhards aren't adjustable this will wear those bushes out faster as well, same with offset bushes in your Radius arms, which I can see you have Superior so that's all done, nice. Have you done a Pitman arm upgrade? rec if running 35s but after you strengthen the steering box mounting points, plenty of weld on options for this, Superior etc not expensive to do. Not saying this isn't a good idea, but unless ya done the basics the expensive upgrade that will only hide the main issues, potentially be a bigger issue, not an issue for you guys but for others watching this!

[@Sethjxl]

Spoken like someone who has been there before! Here are my top 10! 1. Wheel balance, rims checked. This is the most common cause, keep in mind that some of the cheaper and larger muddies just can't be completely balanced. 2. Wheel bearings. Make sure you know how to pre-load the bearing, but also check the spindle for excessive wear or heat marks. This can be an expensive repair for LC owners. 3. Panhard bushes, this is a consumable item that should be changed every 10-15000km if you are using the vehicle offroad. 4. Alignment - Tow and castor. From memory, you are looking for 2-3` of castor on the front diff. 5. Tie rod ends on the drag link, these should be thought of as serviceable, but consumable. There should be 0 play in the joint. 6. Worn panhard mounts, older vehicles (particularly GQ patrols) tend to wear out the mounting point for the panhard, this causes lateral movement even with a new bush. 7. Steering box play. The centre of the rack in the steering box wears the most as that's where it spends all its time. You should have no dead spot when the car is off and wheels pointed straight. Adjust as necessary or replace the box (rebuild kits do no address this issue). On GU and GQ, there are known mount failures, bracing of the chassis may be needed to resolve or prevent this. 8. King pins. These are some of the first things that people play with. Replace the bearings, but don't go removing shims unless you know what you are doing. They are set in the factory and almost never need to be changed. Getting it wrong will cause excessive wear on the knuckle and seals. 9. Steering couple, some 4bys has a rubber rag joint to soften the steering feedback. The factory LC80 coupler is a good upgrade for GU and GQ, if an LC, check it for play. 10. Offset, anything over -30 is just stupid... :p

[@TheBremse]

Steering dampener may fix it, but it isn’t the cause of the issue. Better to find what’s actually causing the issue. Like worn components.

[@TheBremse]

And if an old car is “vibrating”, there are maintenance issues like worn components. My 30yo RRC still drives like new, because I replaced all the bushes with new OEM ones, despite being lifted, and on wider high offset wheels/tyres.

[@robmacca67]

Agreed... its only masking the problem...

[@SIDETRACKED]

Thanks mate, have checked for worn components.

[@TheBremse]

@@SIDETRACKED maybe so, but there is either something you’ve missed, or something is poorly machine, or something isn’t set up right, like run out in a wheel for example. There is definitely something else wrong, because from a mechanic/physics point of view the steering dampener only masks the issue.

[@boostedbuiltgarage]

In almost all cases the damper isn't the actual issue. However, I encountered a very similar thing with a RTC damper. Was giving me the most insane death wobble after hitting certain bumps. Took it off and it didn't happen again. The root of my cause though was too big of a scrub radius on the front wheels but the spring on the RTC would then amplify and just self perpetuate until it was out of control.

[@kermit7453]

King pin preload

[@robertireland783]

Have you checked your wheel bearings? The other thing you want to check is the tie rod ends

[@williamandrews1683]

Dobinson makes great stuff.

[@donfinch862]

1st thing to do would be a wheel balance

[@Sethjxl]

I think we can assume they have done this. Nevertheless, this is good advice for most people chasing a solution to death wobbles.

[@SIDETRACKED]

Thanks mate. Done.

[@mountainconstructions]

That's it fellas

[@oldbloke204]

Awkward speed for it to happen given the speed limits...................