DEATH WOBBLE 80 SERIES LANDCRUISER - CAUGHT ON CAMERA

[@SkidPig]

I HAVE DONE A FOLLOW UP VIDEO WITH THE FIX ON THE CHANNEL GUYS, THANKS FOR YOUR HELP 🍻🍻

[@Chris-74]

Got a link to video? I cant find it champ!

[@Aaron_Rivas]

I have the same problem on the 70 series 2011 help!!!

[@fernandomartins6649]

where is the video mate.. and what have you done to fix the problem?

[@Aaron_Rivas]

@@fernandomartins6649 He just aligned the vehicle and balanced the front tires and that solved the problem. In my case I changed the 4 steering terminals and the stabilizer bar links. it is worth making the clarification: the terminals did not feel bad but they were loose, they no longer had resistance when moving them by hand. El solo alineó el vehículo y balanceó las llantas delanteras y con eso solventó el problema. En mi caso cambié los 4 terminales de dirección y los enlaces de la barra estabilizadora. vale hacer la aclaración: los terminales no se sentían malos pero estaban flojos, ya no tenían resistencia al moverlos con la mano.

[@Chris-74]

@@fernandomartins6649 Yeah he fixed it mate, cost him over $100 Grand ... He bought a RAM... as an added bonus , it even added 2 cylinders, LOL... ( Sorry Skid Pig, i couldnt resist )

[@Sidheavonney]

I noticed the problem right off the bat. SHEESH. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. Duh!

[@Terrifier1984]

Lol

[@Sidheavonney]

@Tt Miller USA.

[@420family9]

It’s Australia you drive on the left the steering wheel is on the right

[@Sidheavonney]

@@420family9 Ummmmm........ No shit????

[@chucksherron]

@@Sidheavonney the username tells you everything you need to know.

[@Simplicities]

hey mate, from my 80 series knowledge, check tyres for separation firstly. -2nd Check all drive arm bolts are tight and bushes -3rd check for any cracks around your steering box 80 series are well known for cracking around there with big lifts and tyres putting pressure on that side. let me know how you go

[@10GTE]

80% of the time death wobble is panhard rod bushes and the other 20% of the time its drag link and track rod ends worn. Go over those components with a fine tooth comb and guaranteed you'll find one or two worn things that need replacing.

[@zacharyhuntsman7310]

Yup

[@roberthoard639]

Ha, wrong. Shitty lift. Castor angle to steep. Turn back 2.5 deg. Learn the basics haha.

[@zacharyhuntsman7310]

@@roberthoard639 lol my death wobble went away after I replaced some bushings

[@roberthoard639]

@@zacharyhuntsman7310 worn out stuff exaggerates it ,let the frequency converge not diverge. Kook at the castor/kingpin angle on a top fuel car. Now look at the castor angle on a gp road race bike. The gp bike needs a steering damper. The top fuel car does not. Why? Geometry. Doe you also struggle with drive line vibration? Ill bet you don't get u joints either. Hahahh. I work late at night. To easy to talk shit. Dont mean anything by it. But seriously castor settles everything down. . New bushing are just holding it tight. It wants to shake.

[@GreystoneRealEstate-z4l]

I had a similar and still trying to figure what it is....

[@dexter131]

Your trac/panhard bar looks like it has a loose joint at the frame. ⁹/10 times that's the cause of the death wobble you're experiencing.

[@waugy370z8]

I think you got it right. It looks like its barely connected to the frame. About to completley come apart.

[@victorpelini5995]

Yeah front solid axle illness these Panhard rods. In the rear its not an issue but in the front because there is some play in the steering it can initiate the wobble.. Quite dangerous Indeed

[@hdj81Vlimited]

@@waugy370z8 the chassis crack on the steering rack and on the panhard mount on the chassis also... look for fine cracks.

[@mitchellboyd5256]

Check your wheel bearings for play and check panhard on chassis end, panhard looks like its moving ALOT from that end, i have had an 80 and a few GU with loose panhard bolts also wont hurt to check the hub swivel bearings for play.

[@naadirmughal28]

This is what i did it fixed my wobble.

[@efrainzavala1919]

It's either steering stabilizer or track bar you may have to re balance your wheels

[@andrewleece5076]

Couple of things that ive personally seen fix the death wobble. Panhard rod bushes, more preload on the swivel hub bearings, loose wheel bearings, incorrect castor due to lift kit being fitted without drop boxes (if over 3-4”) or offset control arm bushes. (I am a mechanic in aus with plenty of experience on modified 80 series cruisers) Also check the rear bushes on the front control arms. From the footage its still a bit hard to see. Try starting the car up and have a second person rock the steering left to right so you can load up the steering joints while you look for freeplay.

[@markholtrop8561]

I had this issue with my Chevrolet M1008 military truck. I looked at everything, and it turned out to be the tires, rotating them solved the issue. I think it happens from a wear pattern / oversize tire / and tire compound combination. I had Maxis tires originally, and they had fairly soft / sticky compound with an aggressive pattern. I replaced them with a BFG that has a harder compound, but still has an aggressive pattern. I also rotate on a more frequent schedule now. All the knuckles, steering gear, and geometry are all designed for a tire and wheel size smaller than what we'd ever likely use off road. I think a bigger steering dampener may help, looks like you may be still running the stock one with the oversize tires..

[@jkkj1406]

new steering damper and panhard rod bushes

[@nudibanches]

Don't know about Toyotas but Jeeps can be notorious for the wobble and it's never the damper.

[@simtrucking]

ya i thought the same thing

[@lukegooding3135]

Generally panhard bushes or cracked chassis around steering box bud........contact me on ig : @big_80_bus

[@peterbolton5707]

Yip agreed my cruiser had the big crack around the steering box.

[@peterbolton5707]

@Tt Miller yeah i found once the chassis started to flex from cornering it continued to flex but that was just my wagon. It was pretty scary thats for sure.

[@coherence_x54r]

My 93 XJ had a loose nut connecting pitman arm to drag link. Tightened up the nut. Death wobble gone. But a few months later I noticed like someone said, they noticed flex. Yup, big ole crack in the frame next to steering box. Still drove it for a year, puckered up every right hand turn.

[@ethancritchlow7568]

Front Track Bar. Ball Joints. Drag Link/Tie Rod Ends. Upper Control Arms. Lower Control Arms. Suspension Bushings. Steering Stabilizer. Steering Knuckles.

[@digitalbilly]

Totally agree. Could be one of the items on the list or all. Add caster correction to the list.

[@wkroutz]

Check the tires aswell because tires out of balance can cause it.

[@NDTRC]

Tyres pressure Tyres balance

[@BramBiesiekierski]

My work vehicle (PK ranger) randomly does the same thing in 4th gear / 70kmh. I notice it most on cold days.

[@legsofsteel1]

My 80 did the same for a while. Turned out 1 panhard rod bolt was loose.

[@Gorealawarfare]

In the video this is what Noticed as well, watch the panhard bolt that connects the dampener

[@logandolbey5749]

Definitely the Panhard rod my mates patrol did the same thing change that and we were go to go again

[@LS1Cobra]

Has it been lifted much? With the arm setup on these (land rover is the same) as you lift the car the front castor angle reduces. This is because the arms pivot from a central point. Castor is what gives your steering it's self centering ability and keeps the wheel pointing straight ahead. I've seen replacement arms with mounts that rotate the diff housing slightly to add more castor in to compensate.

[@r.joseph8911]

that damper (steering stabilizer) looks like it's shot.

[@DarrenBoxhall]

That wont matter

[@superspark5677]

I had a similar shake at 100km/h and turned out one of my Bridgestone tyres was no good. Bridgestone head office changed the tyres and problem resolved

[@andrewlattimore5377]

Hi mate, Had the same thing on my 80. When 4x4's are modified, big tires, lifts and lots of after market parts, it only takes one thing to be out just a tiny bit and shit like that can happen. The factory steering geometry is set for optimum handling, once you change things, you mess with that geometry. You need to keep things, like caster angle, as close to factory spec as you can. Also check the steering damper. That was the week link in mine. And like others have said, the chassis can crack around the steering box mount. Any unwanted play in anything needs to be removed. Could be just one little thing. Like a slight buckle in a rim and a dodgy steering damper set off by the right bump in the road and off it can go. Good luck

[@RandysRides]

Wow...could be a bunch of things...alignment, tie rod, ball joint, wheel balance...ugh..... bikes are easier. Good luck with it !

[@hamish2202]

bikes are better and way easier they go anymore you can walk aswell the slowness of 4wd i can't stand

[@InNeedOfSpeed]

@@hamish2202 But tricky getting to work when the roads are like hockey rinks though :P

[@jedwallace3726]

All for that and might be wheel bearing

[@bill6449]

Agreed. But there's nothing like 4wd. In a truck you don't care about. Nothing tops that

[@jordanrichardson5259]

My old man had this same problem on his 75 series troopy he changed the draglink and the bar behind it and problem gone he said it was where the drag link joined to the tie rod end with the clamp it stripped some of the thread therefore giving him really bad death wobbles.

[@floydbeard5073]

On my 98 dodge 1500 I had replaced all the springs shocks pan hard bar change both steering stabilizer shocks change stabilizer arms and has a wobble start coming to find out I had a tire separate.

[@ben7020]

I've experienced the same thing in my patrol. Similar to you, the steering joints were in tight condition, then i fitted an aftermarket RTC dampner and it got worse. (The valving was less than factory) My fix was fitting duel steering dampners which Eliminates the shake 100%. I cant even do it if i try - mud in rims etc. Patrols are known for steering shake, but not mine now! ;)

[@artardFTW]

at 2:00 you can literally hear the tires are not balanced properly. also rotating mud tires you want to keep them on the same side. just switch them front to rear. I'm willing to bet that tire balance or poor tread wear patterns from improper balance is your issue

[@timothyharris9709]

Front u joints at the wheel, my WJ was tight everywhere....then we checked them as a last resort! Problem fixed!

[@kaidenkohlman1442]

My 91 dodge did that around 80kmh and i replaced my steering stabilizer and fixed it

[@bobvaldez1099]

The radius arms require offset bushings where the arm meets the axle housing. Any lift above standard height, reduces caster (kingpin rearward inclination at the top) which contributes to "death wobble" with those too large tyres. Offset bushings will help give MORE caster angle, which helps increase return to centre and stability. Also, use stock or re-bent radius arms, do NOT use those aftermarket death trap arms that remove one bushing to "increase travel" or use some form of linkage to increase articulation. A QUALITY hydraulic steering damper will help, too. Avoid using gas pressurised or foam cell dampers, as they suck at steering damping. Just my $0.02.

[@matthewdorricott4514]

Start with wheel balance weights. The littlest thing can start this off same happened on my defender 90

[@deant6627]

Yep, i had the exact same problem with the exact same symptoms. It plagued my vehicle for more than 200000 km. I tried multiple mechanics with no one being able to completely fix it until recently. The main cause of the problem is you have a cracked/leaking diaphragm in your brake booster and causes the brakes to slowly but surely apply as you drive. The discs inevitably end up with a warp and as the vehicle ages the control arm bushings amongst a few other things developed a bit of wear and play on which in turn allows the wobble to develop and happen. As this problem starts to happen if you pull over on a slight incline you'll actually feel your brakes are slightly stuck on and if i mashed my brake pedal quickly i would feel the brakes release and the vechicle would start to roll Freelee. If i did this at the start of the wobble it would usually stop the wobble from happening until it would slowly but surely start to happen again at some point as the brakes would reapply. Not sure where you live but Jakes brakes and suspension at Yatala fixed my vechicle of this problem. Let me know if you need any more information.

[@Kramerfuckthis]

Check your steering box bolts or the panhard rod chassis mount those are both shaking a lot.

[@jaymanxxxx]

agreed.

[@danhartnell900]

And cracks around them

[@truetravel2418]

It’s most definitely the panhard / track bar. Had the same issue with a 1996 Cherokee and a new adjustable track bar fixed the problem immediately

[@firstnamelastnameisallowed7943]

Jeeps are notorious for the trac bar bracket going to poo! Any death wobble or just a wobble at all it's that area almost every time. Lots of people will argue tires are not round but usually they are worn like that because of the trac bar! LoL

[@fijibatiislander7219]

Need to rotate tyres & have them balanced man 👍 that’ll sort it out

[@SkidPig]

Yeah mate that was it

[@Mr.throttle63]

Had the exact same thing when a mob did a dodgy balance and alignment on my old 80

[@Aussie_Damo]

That was my first thought

[@DuncanTreller]

@@SkidPig and if that didn't sort it, replace the front shock absorbers in the ones i have seen before, 1 Tyre balance, 2 replace shockers.

[@bigdazza001]

Mate I was going to say the same thing. I have an 80 with 35’s, and they started shaking like shit. Thankfully I also sell balancers. One thing I would stress, make sure whoever balances your wheels uses finger plates. Being located on studs and not the hub like a car, this is super critical. You can end up with a residual unbalance worst than when it went in.

[@craigluhr7243]

I had the same issue on my 76 series. Check wheel bearings. I ended up changing steering stabilizer, all bushings, balanced and rotated the tires. It still happened until I changed the wheel bearings.

[@0ld_mate]

drivers side front most likely castor or pinion angle or out of alignment. but could be something loose there but it definatly starts from the drivers side

[@marcusreifler5363]

I had the same problem with a short base patrol and it turned out to be the front springs on the left had snaped off but would sit in place untill you got to 80km then would start shaking. Hope it helps

[@cobalt1019]

The preload on the kingpin bearing is to loose easy fix done hundreds of them.

[@SkidPig]

Will check it out

[@jay2l70]

Spot on I've done heaps of them also.

[@noblesseoblige2365]

so the general accepted idea from the notorious jeep wobble is that drag link foward doesn't cause a wobble. you might end up with abysmal steering but if doesn't wobble. you need to check your caster geometry. your tierod and jeeps run a balljoints set up but whatever your knuckle equivalent is. in a jk less 1mm of balljoints play will cause a wobble. also remember your steering stabilizer doesn't eliminate steering problems it masks them.

[@andrewreardon2724]

100% it’s your flux capacitor!!

[@SkidPig]

I have 3 fitted

[@JimmyStewpot]

The flux capacitor needs a drop bear to operate properly. If you have more than one flux capacitor you need to add a hoop snake

[@SkidPig]

@@JimmyStewpot Ok, I have recently installed a level 3 drop bear onto the roof rack and I can notice a difference. Hook snake is on back order

[@delrokosh1902]

Refresh the flux, then either tighten or loosen the capacitor or leave it alone.

[@nickbloomfield4433]

Had identical issue in a Sierra. Turned out being a front tyre that was “lumpy” (not round). Tyre Power identified the issue immediately just by eyeballing the brand of tyre.

[@checkmilu]

Steering damper is faulty, 99% of the time

[@Nothingtoya]

If everything right, you shouldnt need one.

[@Iwaswrong578]

I agree with milu. Every Jeep death wobble I’ve fixed has been the steering damper.

[@Nothingtoya]

Replace the dampener, if it makes your death wobble go away than good. You'll be dealing with what really caused the problem later down the road.

[@danpitcher6670]

My fathers land rover discovery had this problem. Also steering damper.

[@grego10r]

Got nothing to the with steering damper

[@Sergio-ih6lk]

Had a problem like that on a van I had and changed the steering stabilizer shock and it worked for me. good luck😆

[@patwhelan5566]

Looks Bad ,I’m no mechanic however I have had very similar issue in a Tojo, it was eventually sorted with additional pre load shims on the hub bearing pins.

[@SPMech]

check your swivel preload, happens on defenders, usually triggered by a slightly unbalanced wheel.

[@QualityAudio]

I had the same problem in my Jeep. It was the bushing that connect the bottom two control arms to the axle

[@mountainconstructions]

Just did the UNI Joint in my 80, it was EXACTLY THAT!!! I had the exact same sympttoms Cheap and easy

[@kelefakansala9168]

Guys my Toyota is in Africa and am having exactly the same problem. Only Universal joint needs to be changed?

[@beejsmusic]

I had the same problem mate. On the 80 series the front track bar is bolted to a captured nut. The captured nut is welded to the front diff housing. On mine that captured nut had broken loose and as allowed the front diff to move sideways about an inch. At least on mine this was the cause of mine shakes (as well as other scary shit). Maybe you’ve got the same issue...worth checking out. Cheers

[@cedricpieterse7280]

When fitting the aftermarket suspension in your vehicle, the kingpin inclination must have changed a degree or two making the wheels want to caster a bit. In other words, the whole diff housing has rotated with the pinion flange (the bit where the front propshaft bolts in to) moving up towards the body. Some high lift kits do this in order to accommodate the propshaft angle to save the universal joints in extreme movements. The kingpin inclination in solid axle vehicles is built in to the axle, so the moment you tilt the diff upwards to minimise the propshaft angle, the whole geometry goes for a.ball of shit. To fix it, go back to standard suspension, or get a lift kit that does not change the angle of the diff. Or just drive slow...

[@konjithailu6976]

That's exactly the issue here with vibrating front wheels. The lift is the factor for messed up angles.

[@heath8779]

Hi again, was chatting with a mate who fits n sells tyres. He said to swap front to back, don’t Criss Cross the tyres as it’s not common practice for off road tyres as some have a direction of travel. Hope this helps 😊

[@wkroutz]

Yep I agree check the tires for bulges or high spots on the tread and rotate them front to back. Left front left back and right front right back

[@jasonfranklin9946]

What's your caster angle sitting at also when they did your knuckles did they do they up to correct preload

[@admiral_mutch9311]

My 99 GU patrol was doing a very similar thing at around 80kms. Changed the steering damper and all was fine after that. Different car I know, but hope it helps 👍🏻

[@trevorbotha3548]

Wheel balnacing does that and also the prop shaft might have a dent so you can have that balanced too

[@billysweeney1435]

I end up working on Jeep's all the time with the same problem it's almost always track bar bushings if your running 35" I'd recommend dual steering stabilizers as well

[@Chopperdog]

Swivel hub bearings might have to much play in them you might need to take out some shims my Mk Nissan Patrol use to do it.

[@ianstromilo6962]

This is the go!

[@tonka4407]

That and possible panhard rod bushes

[@Chopperdog]

@@tonka4407 his could be a panard problem but I don't have a panard rod on my patrol my 4wd is leaf spring front and rear and it can still be a cause for death wobble on a coil spring 4wd if the rest of the steering is good he said he change the swivel hub bearings so that would change the clearances with new bearings and new bearing cups will be different to the old ones for clearance you only take one shim out one the top and bottom on each side to take up the play even GU patrols are the same.

[@craigmandall9420]

My gu has done it 3 different times. The first 2 it was the panhard rod bushes and also radius arm bushes on the first one and the third time it was the swivel hub bearings and the wheel bearings were loose

[@Chopperdog]

@@craigmandall9420 Yeah mate sounds about normal any solid Axel 4wd can get the death wobbles if something isn't right.

[@maxgood42]

My 75 does it too. After raising the suspension it puts the steering arm on an angle that also makes it kick on speed bumps. Solution is to add a Watson Link system to centralise the diff .

[@SkidPig]

I have castor correction bushes fitted already

[@maxgood42]

@@SkidPig I'm still working on my front end so I'll have to let you know when I've perfected it. Building a Watson Link is a bit tricky (see falcon rear end) with the added obstacle of an ecotec sump to navigate around.

[@dannyrexknight]

Yeah balljoints, tie rod ends, steering rack or box panhard joints. I lived with this on a Jeep JK after a year. Big tyres, smashing tracks, it wears shit out man. It all costs money but the longer you leave it the more expensive it gets. Death wobble will end up tearing off mounting points and totally tearing apart every joint and bushing in the front end, or it will kill ya. Stay safe bro...

[@iSpike]

G'day Mr Pig mate, (Part 1.) isn't the GoPro just a bloody awesome little camera hey! I love it man. (Part 2.) Yeah I reckon it's the "panhard bushes or cracked chassis around the steering box" (Part 3.) Now I gotta tell yu that all in "Part 2. is a complete copy and past because I wanted to look like I knew what I was talking about when in fact I got no bloody idea. Good luck with fixing it mate. Cheers from yu bud on the West Side

[@jonathondeeds3423]

This looks like a geometry issue I'm sure your camber angle has been altered by the suspension lift.

[@randomvids643]

Skidpig, I have a 61 series and it was doing the exact same thing. I looked at everything and couldn’t figure it out. So I ended up putting a new steering damper in and it ended up fixing it. Mine has a 4 inch dobinsons suspension lift. Hope this helps and keep up the hard work.👍👍

[@danieledwards7271]

bandade fix

[@jeremyjones6346]

Check tyres for a bubble could be plies delaminating.

[@bbqbob5128]

Had this problem once but not on a 4x4. Harmonic vibration only at one speed. Pulled lotsa hair out. Vehicle otherwise mechanically perfect, like yours. Last roll of dice - took my main drive shaft to Veem, where it was found to be just very slightly bent ( only 10 thousanths of an inch! ). Plus, one of the balance weights had disappeared. Must have damaged it on a crappy road. They fixed it a treat and lo and behold, no more problems after that. It's the sort of problem which can escape detailed examination. Try it.

[@Michael-tt8pi]

could be alignment, tie rod, ball joint, wheel balance, bearings, steering , list goes on

[@lawrencemacd63]

Wheel needs balanced 🤔

[@dynotuner]

SkidPig I'm an 80 series Landcruiser owner as well , 1994 Sahara. I've done all of the mods you've done plus more coming (5.912v turbo cummins and 6 speed Allison auto).I own a dyno shop in Adelaide , been playing with high performance cars and 4x4's for about 32 years.The "death wobble" is attributal to a number of factors. 1st check on any 80 series is steering box and panhard mounting intergrity , cracks at either end of panhard mount area will be death , or steering box chassis cracks will be death.You might have to remove them to inspect properly.Best bet is to get a steering box chassis repair plate and get it welded by a boilermaker or someone who can do really decent welding , Mig or Tig is fine. While you're at it you can beef up the panhard mounting areas also. The main problem though is hidden, if we assume all ball joints , bushes , wheel bearings , swivel trunnions .... etc are in servicable condition. If you stand back and look at your 'Cruiser and look at a picture of the front end of a standard 'Cruiser , you will see what I mean. If you compare std height vs say 3 to 4 inch suspension lift you will notice that panhard and steering angles are much larger. A std vehicle at ride height with correct geometry will have straight , parallel steering and panhard angles. You've addressed some of the problems , like caster angle with Superior arms and adjustable panhard bar to centre the wheels (they go across when you lift , right?) , but you steering angles are still shit. Strengthening steering box mounts will help as will panhard mounts. Correcting steering angles should be checked and approved by a certified engineer , some fabrication is required , but will transform your 80 to stock steering angles without the damas. You can also correct the panhard angle at the rear end as well if you bite the bullet. There is a price to be paid for suspension lift....

[@SkidPig]

#dreamcar

[@Sergey322]

Hello, is it OK to feature your clip in a my chanel for educational purposes (so-called temporary copyright.)? You can stop me from using your content at any time and it will be deleted immediately. It will be credited in the description & comments section with your name. Thanks, MM

[@SkidPig]

Yes 👍

[@jeffreysheldrake3243]

Check camber and castor reading and check and replace hub swivel bearings.One of these things fixed up a wobbly leaf spring Patrol years ago. Some well worn Tritons do this same thing. All front end bushes are considered suss in them. Raised suspension will make this easier to happen in any car

[@briguy91931]

Id start by replacing all bushings/bolts/ball joints and the steering stabilizer!

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Hi Skid I had this exact problem it's your damper shock. I can tell from the video it does not look heavy duty enough even if it's new (for those sized tires). Just get a bigger one, doesnt have to break the bank I did the same on my cherokee - problem solved.

[@chrissteffen556]

Toe in is off. Had the same problem when they put in time rod end in alignment off

[@edjackson4389]

Lack of positive castor is a common alignment issue that causes death wobble as well.

[@10GTE]

@@edjackson4389 0 deg caster wont cause wobble on its own, but lack of caster will amplify a worn panhard bush or steering component into a wobble.

[@edjackson4389]

@@10GTE Yes it will. Tall heavy tires combined with 0 deg castor is guaranteed death wobble. Hell, it doesnt even have to be 0. I dont care if the vehicle is brand new. Been thru this with several brand new Wranglers.

[@tonymeredith6969]

Hey Skid, my GQ used to do the same thing. If you have polyurethane pan-hard bushes as part of your superior kit, piss them off and put in genuine rubber ones, then make sure they are done up faaaarking tight. That fixed my GQ, 100%

[@JonathanPlumber]

Look at both your wheels they are moving sideways on the bearings and CV Joints as if you are floating from inner to outer bearing and have no preload at all on ya bearings.(Free wheeling hubs) Each time you stop you realline your hubs with ya disk brakes Check ya Bearing play, "when ya brake disks are backed off" or remove ya Free wheeling hubs and check ya preload. you are driving a TRUCK not a CAR ??

[@flewyae86]

This, with bells on, started at hubs first, ergo, check bearings.

[@NitroGuyJH]

It’ll do it worse going uphill. My buddy thought “big” tires were cool till the death wobble totaled his truck... during one of his hospital visits I gave him the I told you so talk. What’s better? Safety? Or being cool?

[@chrisjackson1878]

Wheel weights are the problem almost all wheel wobble above certain speed is caused by unbalanced wheels. Deal with this on a daily basis in the garage and 99% fixed when wheels are re- balanced.

[@rallywagon261]

Wheel vibration yes, death wobble, not so much. Generally, you only get death wobble is 4X4 trucks and SUVs with a live front axle, and it's generally caused by a mix of terrible steering/suspension geometry and worn parts like the stabilizer shock and bushings in the control arms.

[@mattisonglenn5702]

Rotation of the tires do help. I’ve got a 2015 f250 king ranch and I’ve hid problems with the death wobble at speeds above 60 mph. If that does not help sometimes it will make some things come loose around your front end.

[@Deerslyr81]

Everything I’ve looked up said the track bar!!

[@beejsmusic]

Deerslyr81 yep. My track bar broke away from its captured nut on the diff.....caused all sorts of scary shit.

[@AutoPrado1984]

I had the same problem, it was solved when I increase the negative caster angle. Everething in my jeep zj were good. 3 or 4 degrees were enough.

[@igormikhaylov6528]

Mate to me it looks like your caster is set wrong. Simular to a shopping trolley. Now it dose and now it doesn't. Same as what you have.

[@devanrushing1718]

I work at a part store here. I'd say most common issues (if all your suspension is new) would be steering damper, if your lug nuts are not torqued properly, and number one is wheel weights. Happens all the time if your tires are now out of balance. And will happen more when you hit a bump (doesn't have to be a big one) but can happen at any time.

[@Mototesto.overland]

Check Panhard rod. the bushing is worn out. if its still intact the spindel bearing is worn. happens to me on my y61 patrol many times

[@tracnunya7165]

the problem is ALWAYS worn out neoprene bushings on the stabilizer bars on and 4wd

[@shcottynepa08]

False

[@mrdeans667]

I’m glad you have gotten a lot of views on this video mate. Helped me find your channel. Subscribed - get the 4x4 footage on the way 😜

[@SkidPig]

Cheers mate

[@Dukey_H]

Generally caused by the wheels being out of alignment or even a different tyre tread can cause extra wear on the ball joints or bushings. Easy way to check the track rods and bearings is the jack a wheel off the ground. Now grab the wheel from top to bottom and wiggle it, then try side to side. Play up and down mean bearings/hub, play left and right means track rod/steering rack is worn. If none of the above it must be pan hard bushes or even shocker top mounts. If it pulls one way while accelerating and the other while slowing it's then it's a wishbone or trailing arm bush. Hope this helps, good luck :)

[@ShoddyRC]

After replacing everything on ours, it turned out to be wheel caster. It started after installing a lift. We replaced nearly everything trying to fix it and once we corrected the caster the wobbling hasn't come back.

[@kralizeccraig5578]

It's very scary stuff. It's about the suspension harmonics related to the rotation and hysterisis effect of tyres. With my 80 it used to happen at 60 and about 80 kph until I worked out the caster was really wrong (close to 0 degrees). Factory spec is supposed to +3 deg. Each inch of lift above factory reduces caster but around 1.6 degrees.

[@Johnhealey-]

Your front left wheel seems to be instigating the shakes. Wheel bearings, tie rod ends, shock, stability bar ?

[@gabrieleluciomaggio1158]

Bearings

[@rayg9069]

Something missing on the front bush of the leading arm on that side

[@extrabass287]

I just started out in machanics but see if it's your ball joints, wheel balancing, also check the control arm, also just go over the whole front end, hope you get it fixed 👌

[@heath8779]

G’day, I had same problem at 90km/h , had the tyres re balanced (finger balanced ) the steel rim centre tabs were worn and gave the cone a false centre (bad balance results ) Finger balancing is the way to go 😊

[@sharon69969er]

Panhard bushes are a good and easy start. Poly bushes resit death wobbles better than rubber. Does it clunk when you turn tight corners? The lower passenger side superflex arm bush always flogs out quicker than the rest if you flex it up lots, and on mine it was completely clapped out after 5 years of ownership (defs should have been replaced long ago). Rest where perfect still. replaced it and it lessened the wobbles. Keep in mind the upper bush on that side is a smaller patrol bush.

[@samindafernando2561]

when there's a vibration on one of the front wheels the damper is there to absorb the vibration. if the shock is bad or the shock ball joints are bad or after putting larger tyres if the pressur in the shock is insufficient it will wobble. had customer with same prob. a stock damper did the trick.

[@gleneaton8914]

I have fixed this problem three times, I have found with lifted 4x4s that run large tyres, everything suspension, steering and tyre related must be A1. First time was tie rod ends, second time was caster correction, third time was worn mud tyres and a simple rotation fixed it.

[@SmittyIndependentFreedom]

I was going to say man get all your tyres balanced and that would fix it but noticed in your comments man you got it sorted 🤙🍻 cheers brother 🍻

[@tomasbrennan1453]

its your king pin bearings mate, im from townsville at well this is pretty cool that youve got a youtube channel🤙

[@twisted4good]

Here in the US death wobble is most common in lifted Jeeps. I've owned many and dealt with bad wobble in a few different Jeeps. I've had wobble because of bad ball joints, wobble because of bad front track bar and control arm polyurethane and wobble because of bad tie rod ends. You have to get into it and check things with as closely as you can. Good luck!

[@sbelshy2798]

Same happened to my L/R defender .... the cause of the problem originated from the rear axle. Would suggest thorough inspection of rear suspension , bushes joints etc .

[@whiterabbit2313]

Inner cv joint bearing broken or one of the 3 on the knuckle is stuck

[@matcausey1778]

Wheel and steering alignment. Check the tie rod ends The slap only get worse c Because your tyres allow distortion with poor alignment due to their size which at a certain speed will allow a skidding and grabbing effect (wobble) You will probably find you are chewing out sections of tread on the outsides of your tyres at strange angles

[@greasemonkey2525]

Same issues with nissan patrol GQs. What i did is remove the knuckle king pin shims upper and lower on both sides. It would stop the “death wobble”. You might also do wheel alignments as well. 👍

[@Jstcruisin]

im running 37s and i dont have this problem. make sure you got the right bushes in the radius arms and you might have the wrong offset. some radius arms already have the offset worked into them like mine which are snake racing so i just standard bushings in. also check if steering box mount is cracked as that helped fix mine aswell

[@jailbreakoverlander]

you check the wheel bearings? they love to loosen up

[@jailbreakoverlander]

and the stabilizer looks bad.

[@1650bullet]

I had the same problem once. Because I had big tyres like yours i had to upgrade the steering damper. I fitted a larger bore sized type with a spring around it. I can't remember the brand that i used but it worked

[@Aaruakkii]

Hey there! Try checking the swivel spindle preload and the wear of bearing inside the knuckle.

[@SkidPig]

Check out the part 2 video mate

[@DatTronic]

hi it happened to me once. i was driving a friends car and almost shat myself. if you got wheel spacers on remove it from the front. if you dont have wheel spacers then i know its bad but put slightly narrower tyres in the front and it will go away. something wares out and with the wider spacing it somehow amplifies the small shakes

[@darrenc4163]

Check the weld around steering box and where the drag link attaches to chassis. My did the exact same thing and the weld had failed. Very common on the 80 Series. Good luck with it mate I hope you can find it and correct it as it really is dangerous. Cheers 🍻

[@kenpickett9317]

This is what you get when you couple a 1940’s billy cart suspension design, a ladder chassis and massive unsrpung mass. Is anyone actually surprised?

[@youtoob8166]

you must do alot of serious 4x4ing