DEATH WOBBLE 80 SERIES LANDCRUISER - CAUGHT ON CAMERA

Please watch: "ULTIMATE TINNY / BOAT BUILT. Episode 1. The Idea 💡"
• ULTIMATE CUSTOM BUILT ... -~-
G'Day Guys,
So the Mighty 80 series has developed a fairly serious death wobble at around 60 - 70 kmh and i have no idea why!!! Chheck out the footage and if you can help or off any tips or sugestions please drop them in the comments below.
Cheers Legends, SkidPig
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[@SkidPig]

I HAVE DONE A FOLLOW UP VIDEO WITH THE FIX ON THE CHANNEL GUYS, THANKS FOR YOUR HELP 🍻🍻

[@Chris-74]

Got a link to video? I cant find it champ!

[@Aaron_Rivas]

I have the same problem on the 70 series 2011 help!!!

[@fernandomartins6649]

where is the video mate.. and what have you done to fix the problem?

[@Aaron_Rivas]

@@fernandomartins6649 He just aligned the vehicle and balanced the front tires and that solved the problem. In my case I changed the 4 steering terminals and the stabilizer bar links. it is worth making the clarification: the terminals did not feel bad but they were loose, they no longer had resistance when moving them by hand. El solo alineó el vehículo y balanceó las llantas delanteras y con eso solventó el problema. En mi caso cambié los 4 terminales de dirección y los enlaces de la barra estabilizadora. vale hacer la aclaración: los terminales no se sentían malos pero estaban flojos, ya no tenían resistencia al moverlos con la mano.

[@Chris-74]

@@fernandomartins6649 Yeah he fixed it mate, cost him over $100 Grand ... He bought a RAM... as an added bonus , it even added 2 cylinders, LOL... ( Sorry Skid Pig, i couldnt resist )

[@Sidheavonney]

I noticed the problem right off the bat. SHEESH. The steering wheel is on the wrong side. Duh!

[@Terrifier1984]

Lol

[@Sidheavonney]

@Tt Miller USA.

[@420family9]

It’s Australia you drive on the left the steering wheel is on the right

[@Sidheavonney]

@@420family9 Ummmmm........ No shit????

[@chucksherron]

@@Sidheavonney the username tells you everything you need to know.

[@10GTE]

80% of the time death wobble is panhard rod bushes and the other 20% of the time its drag link and track rod ends worn. Go over those components with a fine tooth comb and guaranteed you'll find one or two worn things that need replacing.

[@zacharyhuntsman7310]

Yup

[@roberthoard639]

Ha, wrong. Shitty lift. Castor angle to steep. Turn back 2.5 deg. Learn the basics haha.

[@zacharyhuntsman7310]

@@roberthoard639 lol my death wobble went away after I replaced some bushings

[@roberthoard639]

@@zacharyhuntsman7310 worn out stuff exaggerates it ,let the frequency converge not diverge. Kook at the castor/kingpin angle on a top fuel car. Now look at the castor angle on a gp road race bike. The gp bike needs a steering damper. The top fuel car does not. Why? Geometry. Doe you also struggle with drive line vibration? Ill bet you don't get u joints either. Hahahh. I work late at night. To easy to talk shit. Dont mean anything by it. But seriously castor settles everything down. . New bushing are just holding it tight. It wants to shake.

[@Simplicities]

hey mate, from my 80 series knowledge, check tyres for separation firstly. -2nd Check all drive arm bolts are tight and bushes -3rd check for any cracks around your steering box 80 series are well known for cracking around there with big lifts and tyres putting pressure on that side. let me know how you go

[@dexter131]

Your trac/panhard bar looks like it has a loose joint at the frame. ⁹/10 times that's the cause of the death wobble you're experiencing.

[@waugy370z8]

I think you got it right. It looks like its barely connected to the frame. About to completley come apart.

[@victorpelini5995]

Yeah front solid axle illness these Panhard rods. In the rear its not an issue but in the front because there is some play in the steering it can initiate the wobble.. Quite dangerous Indeed

[@hdj81Vlimited]

@@waugy370z8 the chassis crack on the steering rack and on the panhard mount on the chassis also... look for fine cracks.

[@andrewleece5076]

Couple of things that ive personally seen fix the death wobble. Panhard rod bushes, more preload on the swivel hub bearings, loose wheel bearings, incorrect castor due to lift kit being fitted without drop boxes (if over 3-4”) or offset control arm bushes. (I am a mechanic in aus with plenty of experience on modified 80 series cruisers) Also check the rear bushes on the front control arms. From the footage its still a bit hard to see. Try starting the car up and have a second person rock the steering left to right so you can load up the steering joints while you look for freeplay.

[@ethancritchlow7568]

Front Track Bar. Ball Joints. Drag Link/Tie Rod Ends. Upper Control Arms. Lower Control Arms. Suspension Bushings. Steering Stabilizer. Steering Knuckles.

[@digitalbilly]

Totally agree. Could be one of the items on the list or all. Add caster correction to the list.

[@wkroutz]

Check the tires aswell because tires out of balance can cause it.

[@NDTRC]

Tyres pressure Tyres balance

[@robtorresan6463]

Mate, ex front end mechanic, this was a common thing way back with beam axle 4wd's. Check the castor angle, to high castor was the problem back then, some companies sold castor wedges to sit between the leaf spring and diff housing to reduce it. You obviously have a different set up but Narellan Truck Align sell a knuckle bearing kit adjuster to fix the issue. Good luck.

[@Blanchy10]

Uplift suspension giving less caster?

[@OpelOffroader]

Michael Beginning Shaiya Why wouldn’t it change caster?? When lifting the car the axle housing rotates due to the radiusarms, so caster changes..

[@edjackson4389]

@@winta11 Achieving more positive castor is the fix. When he says the "castor is too high" he's saying the the castor angle is not leaned back enough at the top of the spindle. He's not wrong

[@LiamHutchinson666]

Michael Beginning Shaiya Lifting the suspension decreases castor angle in a solid axle setup, the radius arms are bolted to the chassis and diff housing to stop axial movement. When you place a bigger spring between the diff and chassis the suspension moves downward, and slightly pivots towards the centre of the vehicle. You often loose a couple degrees of castor which makes a big difference. Steering becomes vague and less responsive but easier to turn resulting in wandering on the road.

[@r.joseph8911]

that damper (steering stabilizer) looks like it's shot.

[@DarrenBoxhall]

That wont matter

[@jkkj1406]

new steering damper and panhard rod bushes

[@nudibanches]

Don't know about Toyotas but Jeeps can be notorious for the wobble and it's never the damper.

[@simtrucking]

ya i thought the same thing

[@markholtrop8561]

I had this issue with my Chevrolet M1008 military truck. I looked at everything, and it turned out to be the tires, rotating them solved the issue. I think it happens from a wear pattern / oversize tire / and tire compound combination. I had Maxis tires originally, and they had fairly soft / sticky compound with an aggressive pattern. I replaced them with a BFG that has a harder compound, but still has an aggressive pattern. I also rotate on a more frequent schedule now. All the knuckles, steering gear, and geometry are all designed for a tire and wheel size smaller than what we'd ever likely use off road. I think a bigger steering dampener may help, looks like you may be still running the stock one with the oversize tires..

[@mitchellboyd5256]

Check your wheel bearings for play and check panhard on chassis end, panhard looks like its moving ALOT from that end, i have had an 80 and a few GU with loose panhard bolts also wont hurt to check the hub swivel bearings for play.

[@naadirmughal28]

This is what i did it fixed my wobble.

[@efrainzavala1919]

It's either steering stabilizer or track bar you may have to re balance your wheels

[@andrewlattimore5377]

Hi mate, Had the same thing on my 80. When 4x4's are modified, big tires, lifts and lots of after market parts, it only takes one thing to be out just a tiny bit and shit like that can happen. The factory steering geometry is set for optimum handling, once you change things, you mess with that geometry. You need to keep things, like caster angle, as close to factory spec as you can. Also check the steering damper. That was the week link in mine. And like others have said, the chassis can crack around the steering box mount. Any unwanted play in anything needs to be removed. Could be just one little thing. Like a slight buckle in a rim and a dodgy steering damper set off by the right bump in the road and off it can go. Good luck

[@timothyharris9709]

Front u joints at the wheel, my WJ was tight everywhere....then we checked them as a last resort! Problem fixed!

[@BramBiesiekierski]

My work vehicle (PK ranger) randomly does the same thing in 4th gear / 70kmh. I notice it most on cold days.

[@ben7020]

I've experienced the same thing in my patrol. Similar to you, the steering joints were in tight condition, then i fitted an aftermarket RTC dampner and it got worse. (The valving was less than factory) My fix was fitting duel steering dampners which Eliminates the shake 100%. I cant even do it if i try - mud in rims etc. Patrols are known for steering shake, but not mine now! ;)

[@dynotuner]

SkidPig I'm an 80 series Landcruiser owner as well , 1994 Sahara. I've done all of the mods you've done plus more coming (5.912v turbo cummins and 6 speed Allison auto).I own a dyno shop in Adelaide , been playing with high performance cars and 4x4's for about 32 years.The "death wobble" is attributal to a number of factors. 1st check on any 80 series is steering box and panhard mounting intergrity , cracks at either end of panhard mount area will be death , or steering box chassis cracks will be death.You might have to remove them to inspect properly.Best bet is to get a steering box chassis repair plate and get it welded by a boilermaker or someone who can do really decent welding , Mig or Tig is fine. While you're at it you can beef up the panhard mounting areas also. The main problem though is hidden, if we assume all ball joints , bushes , wheel bearings , swivel trunnions .... etc are in servicable condition. If you stand back and look at your 'Cruiser and look at a picture of the front end of a standard 'Cruiser , you will see what I mean. If you compare std height vs say 3 to 4 inch suspension lift you will notice that panhard and steering angles are much larger. A std vehicle at ride height with correct geometry will have straight , parallel steering and panhard angles. You've addressed some of the problems , like caster angle with Superior arms and adjustable panhard bar to centre the wheels (they go across when you lift , right?) , but you steering angles are still shit. Strengthening steering box mounts will help as will panhard mounts. Correcting steering angles should be checked and approved by a certified engineer , some fabrication is required , but will transform your 80 to stock steering angles without the damas. You can also correct the panhard angle at the rear end as well if you bite the bullet. There is a price to be paid for suspension lift....

[@SkidPig]

#dreamcar

[@legsofsteel1]

My 80 did the same for a while. Turned out 1 panhard rod bolt was loose.

[@Gorealawarfare]

In the video this is what Noticed as well, watch the panhard bolt that connects the dampener

[@logandolbey5749]

Definitely the Panhard rod my mates patrol did the same thing change that and we were go to go again

[@artardFTW]

at 2:00 you can literally hear the tires are not balanced properly. also rotating mud tires you want to keep them on the same side. just switch them front to rear. I'm willing to bet that tire balance or poor tread wear patterns from improper balance is your issue

[@deant6627]

Yep, i had the exact same problem with the exact same symptoms. It plagued my vehicle for more than 200000 km. I tried multiple mechanics with no one being able to completely fix it until recently. The main cause of the problem is you have a cracked/leaking diaphragm in your brake booster and causes the brakes to slowly but surely apply as you drive. The discs inevitably end up with a warp and as the vehicle ages the control arm bushings amongst a few other things developed a bit of wear and play on which in turn allows the wobble to develop and happen. As this problem starts to happen if you pull over on a slight incline you'll actually feel your brakes are slightly stuck on and if i mashed my brake pedal quickly i would feel the brakes release and the vechicle would start to roll Freelee. If i did this at the start of the wobble it would usually stop the wobble from happening until it would slowly but surely start to happen again at some point as the brakes would reapply. Not sure where you live but Jakes brakes and suspension at Yatala fixed my vechicle of this problem. Let me know if you need any more information.

[@bobvaldez1099]

The radius arms require offset bushings where the arm meets the axle housing. Any lift above standard height, reduces caster (kingpin rearward inclination at the top) which contributes to "death wobble" with those too large tyres. Offset bushings will help give MORE caster angle, which helps increase return to centre and stability. Also, use stock or re-bent radius arms, do NOT use those aftermarket death trap arms that remove one bushing to "increase travel" or use some form of linkage to increase articulation. A QUALITY hydraulic steering damper will help, too. Avoid using gas pressurised or foam cell dampers, as they suck at steering damping. Just my $0.02.

[@matthewdorricott4514]

Start with wheel balance weights. The littlest thing can start this off same happened on my defender 90

[@lukegooding3135]

Generally panhard bushes or cracked chassis around steering box bud........contact me on ig : @big_80_bus

[@peterbolton5707]

Yip agreed my cruiser had the big crack around the steering box.

[@peterbolton5707]

@Tt Miller yeah i found once the chassis started to flex from cornering it continued to flex but that was just my wagon. It was pretty scary thats for sure.

[@coherence_x54r]

My 93 XJ had a loose nut connecting pitman arm to drag link. Tightened up the nut. Death wobble gone. But a few months later I noticed like someone said, they noticed flex. Yup, big ole crack in the frame next to steering box. Still drove it for a year, puckered up every right hand turn.

[@noblesseoblige2365]

so the general accepted idea from the notorious jeep wobble is that drag link foward doesn't cause a wobble. you might end up with abysmal steering but if doesn't wobble. you need to check your caster geometry. your tierod and jeeps run a balljoints set up but whatever your knuckle equivalent is. in a jk less 1mm of balljoints play will cause a wobble. also remember your steering stabilizer doesn't eliminate steering problems it masks them.

[@truetravel2418]

It’s most definitely the panhard / track bar. Had the same issue with a 1996 Cherokee and a new adjustable track bar fixed the problem immediately

[@firstnamelastnameisallowed7943]

Jeeps are notorious for the trac bar bracket going to poo! Any death wobble or just a wobble at all it's that area almost every time. Lots of people will argue tires are not round but usually they are worn like that because of the trac bar! LoL

[@LS1Cobra]

Has it been lifted much? With the arm setup on these (land rover is the same) as you lift the car the front castor angle reduces. This is because the arms pivot from a central point. Castor is what gives your steering it's self centering ability and keeps the wheel pointing straight ahead. I've seen replacement arms with mounts that rotate the diff housing slightly to add more castor in to compensate.

[@kaidenkohlman1442]

My 91 dodge did that around 80kmh and i replaced my steering stabilizer and fixed it

[@knownClown]

No doubt there's 1000 people on here telling you what the problem is. My advise is turn the cruiser on get the Mrs or a mate to jump in and turn the wheels left to right lock to lock while you lay on the ground and look at all the bushes. Castor, pan hard rod, tie rods, radius arm to chassis bushes shocky rubbers everything. There are so many things that cause this. For me it was my pan hard rod mount to axle housing, the bolt had come loose and broken the but welded on the inside off. Best bet is to just tighten everything too.

[@nickbloomfield4433]

Had identical issue in a Sierra. Turned out being a front tyre that was “lumpy” (not round). Tyre Power identified the issue immediately just by eyeballing the brand of tyre.

[@floydbeard5073]

On my 98 dodge 1500 I had replaced all the springs shocks pan hard bar change both steering stabilizer shocks change stabilizer arms and has a wobble start coming to find out I had a tire separate.

[@superspark5677]

I had a similar shake at 100km/h and turned out one of my Bridgestone tyres was no good. Bridgestone head office changed the tyres and problem resolved

[@heath8779]

Hi again, was chatting with a mate who fits n sells tyres. He said to swap front to back, don’t Criss Cross the tyres as it’s not common practice for off road tyres as some have a direction of travel. Hope this helps 😊

[@wkroutz]

Yep I agree check the tires for bulges or high spots on the tread and rotate them front to back. Left front left back and right front right back

[@Sergio-ih6lk]

Had a problem like that on a van I had and changed the steering stabilizer shock and it worked for me. good luck😆

[@mountainconstructions]

Just did the UNI Joint in my 80, it was EXACTLY THAT!!! I had the exact same sympttoms Cheap and easy

[@kelefakansala9168]

Guys my Toyota is in Africa and am having exactly the same problem. Only Universal joint needs to be changed?

[@marcusreifler5363]

I had the same problem with a short base patrol and it turned out to be the front springs on the left had snaped off but would sit in place untill you got to 80km then would start shaking. Hope it helps

[@craigluhr7243]

I had the same issue on my 76 series. Check wheel bearings. I ended up changing steering stabilizer, all bushings, balanced and rotated the tires. It still happened until I changed the wheel bearings.

[@RandysRides]

Wow...could be a bunch of things...alignment, tie rod, ball joint, wheel balance...ugh..... bikes are easier. Good luck with it !

[@hamish2202]

bikes are better and way easier they go anymore you can walk aswell the slowness of 4wd i can't stand

[@InNeedOfSpeed]

@@hamish2202 But tricky getting to work when the roads are like hockey rinks though :P

[@jedwallace3726]

All for that and might be wheel bearing

[@bill6449]

Agreed. But there's nothing like 4wd. In a truck you don't care about. Nothing tops that

[@0ld_mate]

drivers side front most likely castor or pinion angle or out of alignment. but could be something loose there but it definatly starts from the drivers side

[@kenpickett9317]

This is what you get when you couple a 1940’s billy cart suspension design, a ladder chassis and massive unsrpung mass. Is anyone actually surprised?

[@youtoob8166]

you must do alot of serious 4x4ing

[@bbqbob5128]

Had this problem once but not on a 4x4. Harmonic vibration only at one speed. Pulled lotsa hair out. Vehicle otherwise mechanically perfect, like yours. Last roll of dice - took my main drive shaft to Veem, where it was found to be just very slightly bent ( only 10 thousanths of an inch! ). Plus, one of the balance weights had disappeared. Must have damaged it on a crappy road. They fixed it a treat and lo and behold, no more problems after that. It's the sort of problem which can escape detailed examination. Try it.

[@cobalt1019]

The preload on the kingpin bearing is to loose easy fix done hundreds of them.

[@SkidPig]

Will check it out

[@jay2l70]

Spot on I've done heaps of them also.

[@Kramerfuckthis]

Check your steering box bolts or the panhard rod chassis mount those are both shaking a lot.

[@jaymanxxxx]

agreed.

[@danhartnell900]

And cracks around them

[@danbusey]

I just fixed my wife's 80 series with this same issue. The frame side Panhard bracket was cracked all along the bottom edge front to back. With the truck parked and the engine off I could actually watch the Crack open and close as my wife turned the steering wheel back and forth.

[@gleneaton8914]

I have fixed this problem three times, I have found with lifted 4x4s that run large tyres, everything suspension, steering and tyre related must be A1. First time was tie rod ends, second time was caster correction, third time was worn mud tyres and a simple rotation fixed it.

[@andrewreardon2724]

100% it’s your flux capacitor!!

[@SkidPig]

I have 3 fitted

[@JimmyStewpot]

The flux capacitor needs a drop bear to operate properly. If you have more than one flux capacitor you need to add a hoop snake

[@SkidPig]

@@JimmyStewpot Ok, I have recently installed a level 3 drop bear onto the roof rack and I can notice a difference. Hook snake is on back order

[@delrokosh1902]

Refresh the flux, then either tighten or loosen the capacitor or leave it alone.

[@checkmilu]

Steering damper is faulty, 99% of the time

[@Nothingtoya]

If everything right, you shouldnt need one.

[@Iwaswrong578]

I agree with milu. Every Jeep death wobble I’ve fixed has been the steering damper.

[@Nothingtoya]

Replace the dampener, if it makes your death wobble go away than good. You'll be dealing with what really caused the problem later down the road.

[@danpitcher6670]

My fathers land rover discovery had this problem. Also steering damper.

[@grego10r]

Got nothing to the with steering damper

[@beejsmusic]

I had the same problem mate. On the 80 series the front track bar is bolted to a captured nut. The captured nut is welded to the front diff housing. On mine that captured nut had broken loose and as allowed the front diff to move sideways about an inch. At least on mine this was the cause of mine shakes (as well as other scary shit). Maybe you’ve got the same issue...worth checking out. Cheers

[@Dukey_H]

Generally caused by the wheels being out of alignment or even a different tyre tread can cause extra wear on the ball joints or bushings. Easy way to check the track rods and bearings is the jack a wheel off the ground. Now grab the wheel from top to bottom and wiggle it, then try side to side. Play up and down mean bearings/hub, play left and right means track rod/steering rack is worn. If none of the above it must be pan hard bushes or even shocker top mounts. If it pulls one way while accelerating and the other while slowing it's then it's a wishbone or trailing arm bush. Hope this helps, good luck :)

[@fijibatiislander7219]

Need to rotate tyres & have them balanced man 👍 that’ll sort it out

[@SkidPig]

Yeah mate that was it

[@Mr.throttle63]

Had the exact same thing when a mob did a dodgy balance and alignment on my old 80

[@Aussie_Damo]

That was my first thought

[@DuncanTreller]

@@SkidPig and if that didn't sort it, replace the front shock absorbers in the ones i have seen before, 1 Tyre balance, 2 replace shockers.

[@bigdazza001]

Mate I was going to say the same thing. I have an 80 with 35’s, and they started shaking like shit. Thankfully I also sell balancers. One thing I would stress, make sure whoever balances your wheels uses finger plates. Being located on studs and not the hub like a car, this is super critical. You can end up with a residual unbalance worst than when it went in.

[@trevorbotha3548]

Wheel balnacing does that and also the prop shaft might have a dent so you can have that balanced too

[@jeffreysheldrake3243]

Check camber and castor reading and check and replace hub swivel bearings.One of these things fixed up a wobbly leaf spring Patrol years ago. Some well worn Tritons do this same thing. All front end bushes are considered suss in them. Raised suspension will make this easier to happen in any car

[@mattisonglenn5702]

Rotation of the tires do help. I’ve got a 2015 f250 king ranch and I’ve hid problems with the death wobble at speeds above 60 mph. If that does not help sometimes it will make some things come loose around your front end.

[@patwhelan5566]

Looks Bad ,I’m no mechanic however I have had very similar issue in a Tojo, it was eventually sorted with additional pre load shims on the hub bearing pins.

[@dannyrexknight]

Yeah balljoints, tie rod ends, steering rack or box panhard joints. I lived with this on a Jeep JK after a year. Big tyres, smashing tracks, it wears shit out man. It all costs money but the longer you leave it the more expensive it gets. Death wobble will end up tearing off mounting points and totally tearing apart every joint and bushing in the front end, or it will kill ya. Stay safe bro...

[@jacobhouseworth7877]

My other theory would be, because possible other compents are worn. Ball joints, tie rods, etc.. causing your tires to be worn in a way that causes the same condition. Tire grip fighting from left and right.

[@maxgood42]

My 75 does it too. After raising the suspension it puts the steering arm on an angle that also makes it kick on speed bumps. Solution is to add a Watson Link system to centralise the diff .

[@SkidPig]

I have castor correction bushes fitted already

[@maxgood42]

@@SkidPig I'm still working on my front end so I'll have to let you know when I've perfected it. Building a Watson Link is a bit tricky (see falcon rear end) with the added obstacle of an ecotec sump to navigate around.

[@jeremyjones6346]

Check tyres for a bubble could be plies delaminating.

[@jasonfranklin9946]

What's your caster angle sitting at also when they did your knuckles did they do they up to correct preload

[@edjackson4389]

Assuming nothing is obviously loose or very worn in the front steering or suspension, it's typically caused by lack of positive castor in the front alignment. If you can achieve a couple more degrees of positive castor the problem will go away. I've dealt with this on many Jeeps and 4x4 trucks after they've been lifted, and larger tires installed.

[@freefall0483]

You need more castor in the front and you have a dynamic imbalance in the tyres. The wobble at that speed is consistent with a dynamic imbalance in the fronts. The way it gets out of control is from the lack of self centering when there isn't enough positive castor. A little bit of extra toe in may help too.

[@freefall0483]

You can hear the imbalance in the tires on the bullbar shot. There is a harmonic between the front tires that is being caused by the balance issue. Alot if tire shops only do a static balance. You need to request a dynamic balance.

[@chrisjackson1878]

Wheel weights are the problem almost all wheel wobble above certain speed is caused by unbalanced wheels. Deal with this on a daily basis in the garage and 99% fixed when wheels are re- balanced.

[@rallywagon261]

Wheel vibration yes, death wobble, not so much. Generally, you only get death wobble is 4X4 trucks and SUVs with a live front axle, and it's generally caused by a mix of terrible steering/suspension geometry and worn parts like the stabilizer shock and bushings in the control arms.

[@jonathondeeds3423]

This looks like a geometry issue I'm sure your camber angle has been altered by the suspension lift.

[@QualityAudio]

I had the same problem in my Jeep. It was the bushing that connect the bottom two control arms to the axle

[@SPMech]

check your swivel preload, happens on defenders, usually triggered by a slightly unbalanced wheel.

[@cedricpieterse7280]

When fitting the aftermarket suspension in your vehicle, the kingpin inclination must have changed a degree or two making the wheels want to caster a bit. In other words, the whole diff housing has rotated with the pinion flange (the bit where the front propshaft bolts in to) moving up towards the body. Some high lift kits do this in order to accommodate the propshaft angle to save the universal joints in extreme movements. The kingpin inclination in solid axle vehicles is built in to the axle, so the moment you tilt the diff upwards to minimise the propshaft angle, the whole geometry goes for a.ball of shit. To fix it, go back to standard suspension, or get a lift kit that does not change the angle of the diff. Or just drive slow...

[@konjithailu6976]

That's exactly the issue here with vibrating front wheels. The lift is the factor for messed up angles.

[@Deerslyr81]

Everything I’ve looked up said the track bar!!

[@beejsmusic]

Deerslyr81 yep. My track bar broke away from its captured nut on the diff.....caused all sorts of scary shit.

[@admiral_mutch9311]

My 99 GU patrol was doing a very similar thing at around 80kms. Changed the steering damper and all was fine after that. Different car I know, but hope it helps 👍🏻

[@mitchgrayson2095]

My patrol did the same thing and it turned it was wheel balance and king pins, replaced the king pins and got her wheel aligned and balanced and the wobble went away, seems like a common problem with vehicles with solid front diffs

[@Chopperdog]

Swivel hub bearings might have to much play in them you might need to take out some shims my Mk Nissan Patrol use to do it.

[@ianstromilo6962]

This is the go!

[@tonka4407]

That and possible panhard rod bushes

[@Chopperdog]

@@tonka4407 his could be a panard problem but I don't have a panard rod on my patrol my 4wd is leaf spring front and rear and it can still be a cause for death wobble on a coil spring 4wd if the rest of the steering is good he said he change the swivel hub bearings so that would change the clearances with new bearings and new bearing cups will be different to the old ones for clearance you only take one shim out one the top and bottom on each side to take up the play even GU patrols are the same.

[@craigmandall9420]

My gu has done it 3 different times. The first 2 it was the panhard rod bushes and also radius arm bushes on the first one and the third time it was the swivel hub bearings and the wheel bearings were loose

[@Chopperdog]

@@craigmandall9420 Yeah mate sounds about normal any solid Axel 4wd can get the death wobbles if something isn't right.

[@Michael-tt8pi]

could be alignment, tie rod, ball joint, wheel balance, bearings, steering , list goes on

[@lawrencemacd63]

Wheel needs balanced 🤔

[@DatTronic]

hi it happened to me once. i was driving a friends car and almost shat myself. if you got wheel spacers on remove it from the front. if you dont have wheel spacers then i know its bad but put slightly narrower tyres in the front and it will go away. something wares out and with the wider spacing it somehow amplifies the small shakes

[@samindafernando2561]

when there's a vibration on one of the front wheels the damper is there to absorb the vibration. if the shock is bad or the shock ball joints are bad or after putting larger tyres if the pressur in the shock is insufficient it will wobble. had customer with same prob. a stock damper did the trick.

[@briguy91931]

Id start by replacing all bushings/bolts/ball joints and the steering stabilizer!

[@JonathanPlumber]

Look at both your wheels they are moving sideways on the bearings and CV Joints as if you are floating from inner to outer bearing and have no preload at all on ya bearings.(Free wheeling hubs) Each time you stop you realline your hubs with ya disk brakes Check ya Bearing play, "when ya brake disks are backed off" or remove ya Free wheeling hubs and check ya preload. you are driving a TRUCK not a CAR ??

[@flewyae86]

This, with bells on, started at hubs first, ergo, check bearings.

[@ShoddyRC]

After replacing everything on ours, it turned out to be wheel caster. It started after installing a lift. We replaced nearly everything trying to fix it and once we corrected the caster the wobbling hasn't come back.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Hi Skid I had this exact problem it's your damper shock. I can tell from the video it does not look heavy duty enough even if it's new (for those sized tires). Just get a bigger one, doesnt have to break the bank I did the same on my cherokee - problem solved.

[@Sergey322]

Hello, is it OK to feature your clip in a my chanel for educational purposes (so-called temporary copyright.)? You can stop me from using your content at any time and it will be deleted immediately. It will be credited in the description & comments section with your name. Thanks, MM

[@SkidPig]

Yes 👍

[@chrissteffen556]

Toe in is off. Had the same problem when they put in time rod end in alignment off

[@edjackson4389]

Lack of positive castor is a common alignment issue that causes death wobble as well.

[@10GTE]

@@edjackson4389 0 deg caster wont cause wobble on its own, but lack of caster will amplify a worn panhard bush or steering component into a wobble.

[@edjackson4389]

@@10GTE Yes it will. Tall heavy tires combined with 0 deg castor is guaranteed death wobble. Hell, it doesnt even have to be 0. I dont care if the vehicle is brand new. Been thru this with several brand new Wranglers.

[@DeBildr]

Lift up everything, because there is pressure to wheels, everything feels tight but if you have it in the air you will be able to rattle all the steering components and use a pry bar not your hands to see if anything wiggles

[@kralizeccraig5578]

It's very scary stuff. It's about the suspension harmonics related to the rotation and hysterisis effect of tyres. With my 80 it used to happen at 60 and about 80 kph until I worked out the caster was really wrong (close to 0 degrees). Factory spec is supposed to +3 deg. Each inch of lift above factory reduces caster but around 1.6 degrees.

[@igormikhaylov6528]

Mate to me it looks like your caster is set wrong. Simular to a shopping trolley. Now it dose and now it doesn't. Same as what you have.

[@Mototesto.overland]

Check Panhard rod. the bushing is worn out. if its still intact the spindel bearing is worn. happens to me on my y61 patrol many times

[@MaxxHahn]

My patrol had a similar issue due to flogged panhard bush. Considering the whole axle moves side to side, it's something to do with the suspension and not the steering and driveline

[@heath8779]

G’day, I had same problem at 90km/h , had the tyres re balanced (finger balanced ) the steel rim centre tabs were worn and gave the cone a false centre (bad balance results ) Finger balancing is the way to go 😊

[@tonymeredith6969]

Hey Skid, my GQ used to do the same thing. If you have polyurethane pan-hard bushes as part of your superior kit, piss them off and put in genuine rubber ones, then make sure they are done up faaaarking tight. That fixed my GQ, 100%

[@MrSuprapower]

I had death wobble in my JK Wrangler. I replaced the panhard rod from standard to tough dog, replaced the tough dog steering dampener to a new tough dog dampener, had the tires balanced and had the front suspension checked and tightened. All of these things didn't fix the problem what did fix the problem was machining the front brake rotors. I couldn't believe after all of the things I had replaced it was as simple as the rotors. I hope it is easy and simple for you.

[@iintenze97]

im running 37s and i dont have this problem. make sure you got the right bushes in the radius arms and you might have the wrong offset. some radius arms already have the offset worked into them like mine which are snake racing so i just standard bushings in. also check if steering box mount is cracked as that helped fix mine aswell

[@iSpike]

G'day Mr Pig mate, (Part 1.) isn't the GoPro just a bloody awesome little camera hey! I love it man. (Part 2.) Yeah I reckon it's the "panhard bushes or cracked chassis around the steering box" (Part 3.) Now I gotta tell yu that all in "Part 2. is a complete copy and past because I wanted to look like I knew what I was talking about when in fact I got no bloody idea. Good luck with fixing it mate. Cheers from yu bud on the West Side

[@andrius1988tomaz]

Caster Correction is a must, wheel alignment, wheel balance, and probably need panhard bar adjustment, else the axle could be more to one side of the car depending on the lift size.

[@billysweeney1435]

I end up working on Jeep's all the time with the same problem it's almost always track bar bushings if your running 35" I'd recommend dual steering stabilizers as well

[@matcausey1778]

Wheel and steering alignment. Check the tie rod ends The slap only get worse c Because your tyres allow distortion with poor alignment due to their size which at a certain speed will allow a skidding and grabbing effect (wobble) You will probably find you are chewing out sections of tread on the outsides of your tyres at strange angles

[@AutoPrado1984]

I had the same problem, it was solved when I increase the negative caster angle. Everething in my jeep zj were good. 3 or 4 degrees were enough.

[@judysummers4178]

Severe death wobble in mine was a seized brake piston on front and brake pad was jammed on hard. Faulty one had no meat left on the brake pad, others like new. Had to destroy the piston to belt it out that's how bad it was stuck.

[@jailbreakoverlander]

you check the wheel bearings? they love to loosen up

[@jailbreakoverlander]

and the stabilizer looks bad.

[@djdacdb]

The hole subframe are to loose in sideway direction due to those long arms that holds it, you need something that holds it more tight like crossbraces on those long arms(the crossbraces need to have some bendable joints in each end)

[@troyball4620]

From what I can see is that its more pronounced on the passenger side, like a default in the tyre or a bent rim. How is the wheel alignment if there is one ? Check passenger side rim and tyre buddy and maybe a bubble in the tyre.

[@bryceletcher5326]

I would rule out tyre balance, bubbles etc because it's not consistent. It looks like it starts after a bump which deflected the steering a little and it then rapidly built up the oscillation. This points to an alignment issue, almost certainly toe in is more like toe out.

[@brandonmitchell7654]

Hi I have the exactly the same problem... Check the panhard mount under steering box to see if it is cracked My 105 series never wobbled until I put a new steering damper in and it gave my front end a violent shake I then found out the panhard bracket on the chassis was completely cracked It's from bigger tyers and bigger lift adding more stress to that spot....

[@2Qwk2C]

Interesting. Has to be something that resets itself as it doesn't happen every time you hit 60kph. I doubt it'd be your tyres or the new stuff you've had done. It could be your steering damper tho that should set it off every time you hit 60. Perhaps Jonathan Plumber 's comment is closer to the answer and worth further investigation. Good luck, it sure is a toughie. I hope you post what you find and the cure :)

[@JP-cw9kb]

Had exactly the same problem with a 2000 troopy Couldn't find anything wrong, renewed everything possible in front end still the same problem. Changed tyres eventually just because they needed changing and the problem disappeared. Miracles do happen!