80S Land Cruiser Oil leak fix

[@shootandcruise]

I just got to say man, thank you for this video. I used it last year on an LX 450 and just used it today on my new 80 series. Very thorough and all the tips made a big difference.

[@Texasknowhow]

Awesome! So glad this video continues to help the LC and LX community! Thank you for the kind words and letting me know how it helped you. Pinned your comment.

[@NKPGarage]

9 year old video, and still helpful! Thanks for doing this for all us land cruiser junkies!

[@Texasknowhow]

This is the best community for sure! Thank you for the kind words my friend.

[@NKPGarage]

@@Texasknowhow you got it buddy!

[@herk848]

Just did this fix on my 94. I had exactly the same screw problem in the same location. Fortunately the bit came out and I was able to drill it and undo the stud without going through hours of headache. Thanks for the video! It helped out tremendously. I've been frustrated with the dripping oil for years. Now its clean and I can park on my driveway again. I think between my son & I we spent 8 hours doing the work. We didn't do anything with the distributor since it was done last year. Nor did we change the main seal behind the harmonic balancer. All our time was spent on that pesky oil pump seal. I'm so glad I found this video. You are great at explaining and showing the details needed to do a job. Thanks again.

[@Texasknowhow]

Herk Wright - you are welcome! Glad you got it fixed!

[@tombyorn8278]

I would love to get my '95 that clean. You do a great job.

[@VIN-7567]

This helped my dad alot, he thought he had to change the crank sharp front seal, but after seeing the video he knew it was the oil pump gasket. Thanks for the video, you saved my dad a couple chromosomes.

[@Texasknowhow]

Man you really should tackle it before the winter. I'm so glad I fixed these leaks - been leak-free ever since this was done/filmed. Great feeling. Thanks for watching and the kind comments! Clay

[@paulestrada67]

About to do my '95 and this is by far the best video I found. Extremely thankful that you took the time to post this. I hope you keep posting videos of your Land Cruiser fixes as I'm never getting rid of mine and want to learn from you. Thanks again

[@MarcoSanders]

Excellent material! Together with the mud write-up I am ready to heal my LX450 from leaking on my driveway!

[@simonkearns6403]

Great video. Found it while searching for info as I was replacing radiator and water pump. Got a similar leak on my 94 FZJ80 with 250000 km on it, so after watching this and while radiator is out I will have a crack at exactly what you've done. Thanks for the video.

[@Texasknowhow]

+Simon Kearns Good idea Simon, best to get these done while you are already in there as it makes it a lot easier with the Radiator out. These fixes can be done without breaking the water system open, as I show, but easier still with it out. Glad it was helpful. Clay

[@ThePepperford]

Wow. What a great video. Been looking for something like this for ages. Now whether I tackle any of this is another story. Good to know some of the oil leak areas.

[@Texasknowhow]

Guys, thanks for all the compliments on this video; it is certainly one of my most watched videos and it sounds like it's been helping a lot of Land Cruiser owners to fix those pesky leaks. I've hit 1900 subscribers and I plan to do a give away of some sort at the 2000 mark, so stay tuned to the channel and tell someone about it if it may help them out! Take care, Clay

[@weiliguan8172]

Keep up the great videos -- they're very informative.

[@badmofo]

I have a suggestion. Use the black impact rated bits to remove the phillips screws, the tips are MUCH less prone to breakage than the standard grey ones.

[@Texasknowhow]

B Friend - great tip!

[@kimoclyde]

A little bit of PB Blaster on those screws might have helped out that one troublesome screw. Also, there are replacement screws available with torx heads.

[@justliketolook]

I have found the square head with 4 sides are the strongest and the hex with 6 sides is next in line . The torx heads are 6 sided but are more rounded and really made for robotic use because they make it easier to lineup so your getting a greater chance of slippage with the torx . That's why they make the ranches head 4 sides .The more parallel you have the slots the more grip you get ,any rounding or flaring you have the less grip you have so I would stick to hex and not torx head . . Do you have a link or any info on the size of the screws needed to replace the phillips head ?

[@naijakem]

after further investigation, it turns out the sound is coming from left side if engine bay...the culprit...alternator...bearings are failing. also came across timing cover leak as well. I thought maybe oil filter wasn't tightened properly, or maybe oil pan gasket failing. thanks, friend. keep coming with the good info. these a land cruisers are magnificent specimens of engineering

[@Texasknowhow]

Okay thanks for the update Max. Agree, good vehicles!

[@Ghostrider-71]

Excellent video. Seems like getting the crank bolt to break with your method…a threshold moment for sure. Made me nervous. I have a diesel 80 so a different set up but hopefully someday I will be able to a gas powered 80 owner. Thank you for posting.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man! Yeah, and I’d love to have a diesel one some day! Appreciate you man.

[@flexin81]

It's been said but want to say this is the one of the best and most informative vids I've watched. Recently purchased an fj80 and I def have the oil leak issues. This will def help me save some money. Great vid and thank u sir for taking the time to do it.

[@Texasknowhow]

You are welcome man. Glad it is helping you out. Take care and thanks for the complement, Clay

[@justincremdf]

Thanks for doing this video! I always enjoy your Texas knowhow. BTW that type of pump used for the oil pump here is called a progressive cavity pump. Stone reliable. Thanks again!

[@Texasknowhow]

Justin Cremer - makes sense on the name of this type pump. Glad you enjoyed the video Justin. I’m videoing a Timing belt replacement this weekend on a ‘99 4-Runner. Should be a good vid. Take care, Clay

[@Julianconanhernandez]

Just did the o ring seal & front main seal man, thank you so much for the video. Helped me 1000%

[@Texasknowhow]

Sweet! Glad to hear it helped Julian!

[@joshuadickson4033]

Man, oh man! Awesome video! The job went exactly as you demonstrated in the video. I used a ratchet to take out the 7 screws so I could really take my time and feel if they were about to strip. Didn't strip any of them and my 97 LC has 284,000! Did break a post on the water pump that holds the fan on....lol not in the video I guess. My favorite part was the breaker bar against the frame. Thank you for making this video. Ever in Reno, NV, I'll certainly buy you a beer!

[@Texasknowhow]

+Joshua Dickson If/when I come to Reno next, I'll take you up on the Beer! Thanks for the kind words and letting me know it helped you Joshua. BTW, my favorite part of the fix was the crank bolt as well.. haha. Take care, Clay

[@kylekyle7776]

Great video! Thanks for making this how-to video. Keep the 80 how-to videos coming please.

[@Texasknowhow]

+Kyle Skeen Will do! I've got plans for a few more videos when it warms up around here. C

[@edwardbyron9611]

That's about the cleanest engine bay I've ever seen in one of these

[@Texasknowhow]

Edward Byron Thanks man, appreciate the complement. I try to keep the vehicles clean if i can. Take care, Clay

[@skhochay]

was about to do my LX450 same seals, the tips and technical editing that you show is priceless will save me ton of time - BIG thank to You camera Man and All who did this fantastic video. God Bless!

[@krishan3515]

Well done. Keep the LC running. This really helped me. And very good explanation

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad it helped you out man. I'm lining up a few more fixes to my '96. Needs the ABS light debugged and I think I'll flush the transmission and go back with full synthetic fluid. Those will be videos I make. Take care, Clay

[@chrish1850]

Great video. I just picked up a 93 fzj80 and will most likely. e utilizing your videos. thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@ManCandy3456]

This is incredibly helpful, one of the best diy videos I've seen.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks for letting me know! I appreciate the support. Take care, Clay

[@miketaras8882]

I really enjoyed watching this video as my 97 is leaking in the same places. Very informative. Thanks!

[@russellbaker7026]

This is a great video, Clay. Thanks so much for putting this together. Your detailed instructions are going to be very helpful for me when I tackle this job in a couple of months.

[@Texasknowhow]

You are welcome Russell. Thanks for the kind comments. Let us know how it goes when you tackle this repair and good luck! Clay

[@TRAKMASTRT120TT]

Fabulous video ! I admire you work and explanations of all aspects of the work. Well done ! It inspires me to tackle my own oil leaks on my 96 Land Cruiser at 195000 miles.

[@Texasknowhow]

@braknstuf, glad it helped you man. The greatest compliments are those where someone was able to succeed and it was our efforts that played a part in some way! Glad the repair went well and your 80 is in better shape now. Take care, Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

@Sergey, Thanks man! This video has been helping several others as well. The fixes can be intimidating until it's broken down for you and that was my intent with this video. I also wanted to say thanks to you for recognizing the camera work. My son is really coming into his own with the Videography and knows what I need him to do in terns of zoom or not with no queuing from me. He was happy to see the recognition. ;) Take care my friend, Clay

[@jonesgerard]

Those Milwaukee lithium tools are the cats meow, I tried the 3/8 drive 12v ratchet wrench and loved it, so I went out and got the 18v 1/2inch impact wrench, my air tools don't see any use now. On those stubborn screws, I think I would pull the radiator for something like that, being able to get at it straight on really helps, then use an impact driver...the type that you hit with a hammer ( $25 at Sears). Or resort to the blue wrench, propane heat solves many problems. :)

[@VolkswagenDude181]

awesome video my 97 land cruiser leaks really bad as well and it looks as if its from the spots you tackled in the video so i think ill try this in the near future

[@joescott690]

Thanks for the tips Clay. A buddy and I are about to tackle the front crankshaft seal on his 75' land cruiser.

[@Texasknowhow]

Great! Glad you are able to glen some info and knowhow from the videos. Not too sure of the differences on the year motor, but should be very similar. C

[@Photostudioww]

kool video. im putting hex head flange bolt on that oil pump cover when i do mine.

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad it was helpful Marco! Your driveway will certainly be thankful and look much better! Take Care, Clay

[@interactivebagel]

Awesome video, man. I need to do this on my '96. Been watching the oil leaking for like 2 years now and getting pretty tired of it.

[@comeyouspirits]

15.09 distributor removal ❤

[@rsael2]

Clay; It's very excellant and Nice video. I agree with Jason Sigmon about using a hand impact driver, we are using a hand impact driver in aircraft maintenance procedures ( daily process ) . You should use Anti-seize compound . Thanks; Hajazi Aseil, an Arab aircraft engineer and FAA, A&P, IA inspector

[@aronmonta8173]

Thank you for this video.. I'm about to do my Distributor O-ring on my 97 and this video is very helpful. thank you again!

[@jakedrob4617]

Excellent video...for whatever reason I can never picture the procedures when reading the walk through. I was not at all confident in doing this job and was starting to think I would be paying toyota 1200.00. After seeing this video, I am confident, and looking forward to this (unless bolts start to strip). Thanks again....you will have saved me 1194.00-I have to but the size 3 Phillips bit!

[@TheCaodangquang]

awesome video...I don't even have a land cruiser yet...good tips for the 80 series...now I got to buy a TLC...so I can do this job! thanks.

[@nomercy0401]

i have one for sale a 1994 land cruiser in the bay area

[@Texasknowhow]

A1leejack, Appreciate that. This was a very satisfying repair as it make an immediate difference not leaking on the driveway! Take Care, Clay

[@thesuperisss]

i have the same cruiser and it leaks as hell, this video made my day, i will order orings and tooling for this job and will fi it, thanks for tips, great job!!!!

[@jacksonchang8658]

Currently attemtping this along with spark plug tube gaskets. Waiting for part... yesterday i stripped a couple of my #3ph screws on the oil pump and broke two #3ph heads.... lol jesus u make it look easy. Amy advice? Im doing everything u did, scraping, and sprayed carb cleaner to get the gunk out. And also used an impact tool, but not an electic one.

[@Texasknowhow]

Okay, at this point, just drill them out. Preferably use a reverse spin bit (turns lefty loosey). As the drill bit cuts the head off the screw it may grip and turn it out if it's turning that way. If you can't find a left twist bit, no worries, just drill them out. When the head pops off (use a bit the size of the threaded part of the screw) stop drilling. Take the cover off and use vise grips to remove the rest of the screw. Best of luck, thanks for commenting and for the complement. Clay

[@BeeCeeNJ]

Great material. I have a '96 LC and it's leaking real bad. This vid will come in handy. Nice, clear instruction. Subscribed!

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man! Glad you guys are digging these how-to videos. As I repair mine, I'm just trying to help the folks in the same boat. Take Care, Clay

[@cascade8018]

Excellent, excellent video. I will be tackling this project soon. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.

[@Texasknowhow]

good to hear! Glad the video was helpful. Take Care, Clay

[@manuelvalencia9506]

Dude.. Thank you for making this vid! Just awesome to be able to follow your video as I went alogn and did all the seals! I owe you a few beers if you are in Arizona some day!

[@Texasknowhow]

+Manuel Valencia Okay, I'll hold you to that promise if I make it out there to AZ! Glad it helped you man, take care, enjoy the LC! Clay

[@CEEPMDEE]

Maaaan.. I could hug you. great videos. Already helped out a bunch.

[@Texasknowhow]

Great, glad it's helping you! That's why I do this stuff, appreciate the comment, take care, Clay

[@GuillaumeDriscoll]

Thank you for the super clear instructions. Learned a lot.

[@bruce12393]

Thanks. You explained that really well. Subscribing today. 👍🏽

[@jedhafen]

You're welcome. ...and what is subbing anyway?? Also wanted to mention I thought I would try cracking the crank pulley bolt with my good old American made (Proto) 1/2" drive breaker bar just to see if I would get lucky.... Nope. Snapped the end right off. You really do need a 3/4" breaker bar to bust that puppy loose. Just watched your canister swap and I think that's the next fix on my list. Thanks again, Jed

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man. That was a difficult filming due to the constrained area and just all the steps, etc. Appreciate the comment. Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

I hear you Jake, I will be releasing more vids in the near future, I've done the diff oil change & transfer case - just need to wrap up the post processing and get it up here. The coolant drain and replace is really easy one, I did that to base-line my 80S when I got it a little over a year ago. I also flushed it with a simple kit from the auto parts store. highly recommend this BTW. Thanks for the comments, take care, Clay

[@arielmarin6968]

Man cool video my friend . what a great job

[@Texasknowhow]

ariel marin - Thank you, appreciate the comment. Hopefully it will help you out. Clay

[@harveysmith100]

The reason that everyone struggles with the screws on Toyota's is, you are using Philips screwdrivers. They are not Phillips they are JIS (Japanese Industry Standard.) Philips will round them out. Get yourself a set of JIS screwdrivers and bits. Vessel is a good brand. Once you understand the difference you won't have 99% of the problems you had before. Lot's of info on JIS on the net. Well worth learning. Anything made in Japan will have JIS fittings. Computers, cars bikes, everything.

[@Texasknowhow]

I learned about JIS after this video, of course, but what you say is 100% accurate. Thanks, Clay

[@chrisk6309]

Hey Clay, thanks for making this video! I've got a leak from the oil pump but not the crankshaft seal. Is it necessary to remove the main pulley to just get to the oil pump seal or should I go ahead and buy the other seal and do it all at once?

[@Texasknowhow]

Chris Karamales - I would do it all together. My luck, it would start leaking within a month if I didn’t change it! Haha. But also, if I recall, I think a few of the lower screws for the oil pump cover are behind the Harmonic Balancer. You won’t be able to get those out unless you pull that off. Do the seal man.

[@Benchandler80]

Great work, I have been putting of doing this until now. Great help seeing it done.

[@jchipp]

Great video! I just did this repair this last weekend, and your video was a great guide. I was lucky enough not to break a bit. The screw that you broke your bit off in, was also the tightest on my FJ80. Anyway, my repair went pretty smooth, thanks to your video. Did you ever publish your oil pan video? Did you ever replace your rear seal? I think I have a rear seal leak as well, but I may just have to live with it...

[@Texasknowhow]

That great to hear Justin! Glad the video helped you get through that repair. And now you are a little more familiar with your FJ80 to boot! Thanks for commenting and letting me know, it means a lot that I've been able to help in some way. Take care, Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

Forgot to answer your questions Justin... I have video of the oil pan but have not completed the final compilation still. I have not replaced the rear seal, but I know for sure I'm loosing oil there. My new shop (we are in the process of a move and are now in TX) will have a vehicle lift (been a long time coming) and I'm going to tackle the rear seal with the help of that lift. I will get to the videos again soon. C

[@pusherpilot]

THANK YOU! I am about to remove my engine on my 96 cruiser.. This gives me a good heads up.

[@Texasknowhow]

Great, glad it helped orient you to the engine and accessories that bolt on, etc. Why are you pulling the engine if I may ask? I've thought about pulling mine to do the rear main seal replacement... may be easier that way.

[@pusherpilot]

Mine has a rear main seal leak. I want to replace all the seals since it is now 20 years old. The seller tell me that it had a head gasket leak that was repaired with steel seal. I want to replace the head gasket. I just bought the vehicle the other day knowing it needed this work but I am up for it. I am also posting my video's related to what I am doing with this vehicle. Check out my video that I just posted on it. The sun roof is not working,needs to be painted as well. Transmission and transfer case is perfect. Anyway, I would love to talk this stuff all day but.....O by the way I live in West Monroe, LA. Maybe go wheeling some day when finished.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks Pedro! Glad you liked it. Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

@03Z71Tahoe1, Thanks for watching and the comment. Yeah, my PS pump is starting to whine a little when I'm doing parking lot type turning. I may be right there with you on that change out; if so, I'll def video it so others can learn from my scraped knuckles, haha. That does sound like a lot of work on the front of the engine. I've never pulled my engine on this vehicle, so couldn't comment on the time savings either way, but I do know that pulling it would let you get to that back crank seal.

[@masterfab23]

Damn good video, I have a 96 with factory lockers. Props to the cameraman as well. I just replaced my ps pump with a used oem unit with low miles. Not a pain in the ass, just sucked doing it in my parking lot while it was snowing and below 0. Plenty of good write ups on ih8mud on it. Put a tsp of Downey to quite the squeal down from using crappy non syn atf. Mind if I post this on mud?

[@humbertomoro5975]

Excellent video. The information do you provide trough the video was grateful and help me a lot................Thanks, HMA

[@Texasknowhow]

+Humberto Moro Great! Glad it was useful to you Humberto. I hope your repair goes smoothly. Take care, Clay

[@иваниванов-р4х2ф]

It would be interesting to see the replacement crankshaft rear oil seal!

[@ryleymitchell4181]

Awesome video mate, I’ll be doing this very soon 👍🏻

[@rubicondon04]

OK, thanks for the vid.. One thing I will do though, thanks to your mistake, is to go out and find a #3 hardened phillips driver. Apex is one choice..

[@Texasknowhow]

rubicondon04 I think they are JIS not Phillips actually. Look into that as well. Best of luck, thanks for the comment. Clay

[@SanJuanIslandsTV]

I'm a little worried about breaking the oil pump cover screws. I wonder if warming the engine up and then using a little electronic component cooler on the screw heads would cause the screw to contract enough to ease removal. Thanks for a great video. I'm facing the same work. Losing almost a quart per 500 miles.

[@Texasknowhow]

Juan Chevalier -that's a good idea. Can sure try the component cooler. I didn't have one.

[@A1leejack]

Great Video- Thanks for taking the time to record this!

[@ParkerRoams]

I love you my Texas man. THANK YOU!!!

[@Texasknowhow]

Parker Boyack - You are very welcome! Glad it is helping you.

[@johnbezou1143]

Did you drain all of the oil before completing this repair? I have been hunting a mystery leak for a while on my 1997FZJ80 (40th Anniversary Edition). I am such a newbie that I didn't even realize that the oil pump was situated in that spot but after watching this I think that might be the culprit. A lot of work but I think I'll give it a try. Thanks for posting this.

[@Texasknowhow]

Nope, the most that will leak out with these repairs is a tablespoon or so. Oil is sitting lower in pan. Take care and let us know if this fixes your problem. Clay

[@johnbezou1143]

Thanks.

[@matthewgorgoglione5492]

Lexus SUV 450 4.5 motor....easy fix for that front oil pump cover plate...

[@justliketolook]

Thumbs up to the Camera man

[@jackjinbox]

Great video mate, I am assuming the job would be very similar to replace the oil pump seal on FZJ105R

[@Texasknowhow]

jackjinbox - Thanks man! I can’t say for the 105, haven’t worked on one yet. Much of Toyota’s engines are similar and it could be almost the same. Cheers, Clay

[@Photostudioww]

when doing the starter bump technique remember to disconnect all spark plugs so the engine dont start.

[@Texasknowhow]

Edgar Bravo - if you watch I disconnect the signal wire to the distributor and mention this caution to the viewers. C

[@kimoclyde]

A tip and a question: Tip: One could use impact grade phillips bit. They're a lot stronger. Question: You said that you noticed a little bit of oil at the bottom of the oil pump cover after running the engine(I think) and stated that you would check it later. What, if anything, did you discover?

[@Texasknowhow]

Agree will the impact grade bit - should have gone to get one vs using one from a cheap Harbor Freight multi-pack. There was never any other oil seen there. Wiped that very small amount off and it is dry to this day. I think it squeezed out as I snugged the cover up. Thanks for watching and for the comments, take care, Clay

[@rahalati]

Oh man, I like the way you explain things. @11:55 you mentioned that you change your oil every 35 k to 40 k … what type of oil you are using, that seems alot

[@Texasknowhow]

HAHa, no way man, I re-listened to it and I said, "I change my oil every 35 (hundred implied) to 4 thousand miles. I use full synthetic now and I do go to 6k miles. It always looks dirty but good at 6K mi. Thanks for the question, I hope everyone else was understanding my Texas Lingo... Take Care, Clay

[@rahalati]

@@Texasknowhow sorry, you are right

[@steveloomis4086]

Very good!

[@RebeccaLeePerry]

Hi! Thank you for your video! I just have one question, what size torque wrench did you use in order to torque that crank bolt back on? Thanks again! Your videos rock!

[@Texasknowhow]

I bought the big one from Harbor Freight. It goes to 300 ft lbs. I set it on 300, then went just slightly over that to get the bolt at the 310 ft lbs (IIRC) spec.

[@RebeccaLeePerry]

@@Texasknowhow thank you! Phew! My turn now!

[@Texasknowhow]

@@RebeccaLeePerry - You can do it and it helps a LOT with leaks. Glad to help, Clay

[@1mach28914u1]

Great video

[@PSModernKitchens]

It worked! Thanks for this video... we did seals too :)

[@DPCPhotog]

What is the model number of that Milwaukee impact gun?

[@Texasknowhow]

I don’t think they make this one any more it came out just before their move to brushless motors on these. I still use it all the time. This is the equivalent now - amzn.to/33EmcHi

[@DPCPhotog]

@@Texasknowhow - Thanks!

[@msphillips6419]

Thank you, this video was very helpful.

[@jeepingneatus]

Clay, you need to do a rear main seal video so you can show me how to do it:)

[@Texasknowhow]

I know, right?!. If I do the repair it will certainly be a video as well. If i was closer to you we could knock both trucks out with multiple video angles, etc… would be epic! Anyway, it's going to be a tough one man, drop the tranny, etc… Good to hear from you Neatus

[@yoshimurard]

What was the torque spec for the oil cover bolts? Thanks

[@Sertao2013]

On the 7 screws could you have changed them to a bold head or even a allen head ?

[@Texasknowhow]

steve dental - yes, a bunch of people do go to Allen Head screws. I just went with new OEM.

[@dave2574]

Anyone have tips and what to do with a stripped out screw head on the oil pump cover?

[@Texasknowhow]

@Jed, Subbing = Subscribing to my channel. Thanks! Man, I hate breaking tools, but you have confirmed what others were saying on the forums, a 1/2" breaker bar just isn't enough for that job. Take Care, Clay

[@mecawa01]

Thank you so much for this relevant video Clay !!! I am about to begin but I just want to make sure that I understood the procedure to change the crank seal. It's clear for how to remove the nut by using a 3/4-in breaker bar with a 30mm impact socket but not so to put it back. I just need to put a 14mm socket into the bolt located in the oil inspection compartment (at 37min of the video) while using a 3/4-in torque wrench that will allow me to force on the nut in order to fix it back?

[@Texasknowhow]

Yes, you have it right. There will be several 14mm bolt heads inside where the inspection cover is. That is the flywheel/torque converter you are seeing; put the socket on one of those bolts while someone begins to tighten the crankshaft bolt. As the flywheel turns, the socket will lodge against the inspection cover hole edge, this will lock the flywheel in place. Go help your helper to put the right torque on the crank bolt. That's it!

[@mecawa01]

What a fast answer! You're so helpful Clay, you made my day! Have a nice one

[@johnlaurens380]

How do you get the rubber oil pump seal to stay in the groove on the block? There isn't a groove in the pump housing. I'm afraid part of the ring will get mis-aligned as I tighten the pump.

[@Texasknowhow]

John Laurens - I used Aquafor (like Vaseline) just in a few spots around the groove to hold the o-ring. But others use some axle/bearing grease to dab in the groove to hold it. When the engine heats up for the first time, this stuff may run out, so don't let that fool you into thinking the o-ring didn't hold. if you mess up the o-ring, it will probably leak enough to drip as you run the engine. Hope this helps. Take care, Clay

[@TheTraakon]

Thanks for the video Clay. What are the part numbers of the seals/o-rings you used in this?

[@Texasknowhow]

+TheTraakon See description - added part numbers for everyone. C

[@bobhuffman6710]

+Texasknowhow Thanks Clay. Since my post I have done the Dizzy o-ring but yet to do the pump and main seal. Been busy chasing CEL codes and it was at the upholster for 6 weeks. I did get the brakes and axles rebuilt as well.

[@jakedrob4617]

How about a coolant drain/replace, gear oil and power steering......you know, all the things I want to do to my truck! Now I have to watch and wait for you to come out with a "new release."

[@pedrotalavera8539]

very good video Texas

[@scottgb2]

do you have part numbers for those seals and oil cover gaskets/o rings? thanks

[@Texasknowhow]

Unfortunately I don't have the part numbers handy any longer. Try search for these leaks on ih8mud dot com and I'm sure you'll find someone has posted the part numbers. There is a huge thread where this is discussed. Also "CDan" or "Beno" can help you get the right parts as they both work at dealerships.

[@basilabedallah5797]

doing the same job....but replacing the pump......had to drill all 9 screws out......

[@basilabedallah5797]

it took me nearly 18 hour i was trying hard not to break my drill bits but... i lost 2

[@jacksonchang8658]

Wow great video!! Keep it up!

[@Texasknowhow]

thanks Jackson. Left you a comment on Google side of this thing… Just drill out the stubborn screws. Try to find a reverse turn drill bit. They may come out as you drill them! use vise grips to grab the screw shaft after you get the cover off. Hope this helps, take care, Clay

[@naijakem]

my 97 fzj has a subtle squeaking coming from Right side of the engine bay when vehicle is running. any idea what the culprit is?

[@Texasknowhow]

Right side meaning passenger side in the US, correct? Also front or middle or back of the engine? Can you record, post to KZbin and give us a link?

[@jvan5000]

Thanks for the excellent video Clay. I'm going to be tackling the same project on a 94 Land Cruiser and I was wondering if you would be willing to share your O-Ring parts list with us? Thanks in advance man.

[@Texasknowhow]

I'll try to dig up the info on the parts and add in the video desc. Glad it will be helpful to you. Take care and let us know how it goes with your '94. Clay

[@jvan5000]

Texasknowhow Thanks again Clay!

[@Texasknowhow]

I couldn't find the part numbers but I know I just bought everything at the Toyota Dealership's Parts Department. Sorry.

[@avpr1c]

My 97 is such a rust bucket. Is a body shop the best place to help address rust?

[@Texasknowhow]

Tedro Peders - Probably so, unless that is something you want to take on yourself. Depending on how far gone the truck is, you may want to even start with a more rust free vehicle before pouring too much $$ into it. I obtained mine from Ca. The southern trucks are better in terms of rust. But there are more up north because that is where they really help folks is in the snow and ice.

[@dendirty]

Im in the UK and cant find the gasket set. Even Toyota dont have them. Can you recommend a place. Thanks

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks for the note and question dendirty, I'm not sure where to source the parts in the UK, but if you get on the ih8mud.com forum, you can ask the question there and I know someone will chime in with a good answer. There are several guys on there that work for local Toyota Dealerships here in the states and they too may be able to ship to you. Hope this helps, take care and thanks for the sub!, Clay

[@skhochay]

used your video 1-to-1 to replace seals , interesting thing that I had the same problem with oil bolts, so went to SEARS and got the bits to got those pesky bolts out, all works well as you showed - two knuckle heads give you thumb down must be Toyota haters. lol.

[@markbeggs85]

Hey Clay, would removing the radiator and grill make this Job easier to get at everything? It is just a thought I would like to make this job as easy as possible. Thanks Mark

[@Texasknowhow]

Mark Beggs - It’s a trade off between giving you more room for this task and having to break the coolant system open and refitting and filling and burping all that stuff. I mention this at the beginning of the video. If it’s time for a coolant flush, I probably would remove it. I had just done a complete coolant flush a few months prior so I didn’t want to do all that again. Thanks for the question and for watching. Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

Mark Beggs I forgot to mention, you don’t need to remove the grill - the A/C condenser will still be in your way. That’s a whole nother job if you break the A/C system open.

[@markbeggs85]

Clay... your Videos are a great Help to all of us! Thank You