80S Land Cruiser Oil leak fix

Okay guys, this is a little long, but I cover a lot of the snags that folks run into when fixing these common leaks on a 80S Land Cruiser. Mine is a 1996 and I love it. Working on these leaks is going to bring you closer to a full understanding of the vehicle and the great straight 6 engine that Toyota designed for these vehicles. I first go through the tear down to get to the various areas to be worked on; like the order I use to keep the battery connected long enough to utilize the engine to break the crank bolt loose, make way for the distributor o-ring replacement (battery and battery tray removal), and how I get the fan and fan shroud out with no hoses being disconnected.
I used the method described by many on ih8mud dot com to loosen the 7 philips screws holding the oil pump cover on, but with a late twist using a small Milwaukee impact screw gun. This little tool is awesome around the house and shop.
Lastly, I employ the method of holding the auto-trans flexplate to re-torque that same crank bolt and button up the front end again. This stopped 98% of my leaks for sure, but I think I'm going to tackle the oil pan and maybe the rear main seal next. I'll film that as well.
Hope this helps at least one person do these fixes!
Parts list:
1. Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
2. Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7 ~ $2.00 ea.
3. Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022
4. dizzy-o ring Part # 90099-14118
Optional depending on the condition of your existing parts
5. V belts Part # 90916-02353-83 & 9932-109 - these cost ~ $40.00
6. Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010 (if your vehicle has one) ~$80.00

[@shootandcruise]

I just got to say man, thank you for this video. I used it last year on an LX 450 and just used it today on my new 80 series. Very thorough and all the tips made a big difference.

[@Texasknowhow]

Awesome! So glad this video continues to help the LC and LX community! Thank you for the kind words and letting me know how it helped you. Pinned your comment.

[@NKPGarage]

9 year old video, and still helpful! Thanks for doing this for all us land cruiser junkies!

[@Texasknowhow]

This is the best community for sure! Thank you for the kind words my friend.

[@NKPGarage]

@@Texasknowhow you got it buddy!

[@herk848]

Just did this fix on my 94. I had exactly the same screw problem in the same location. Fortunately the bit came out and I was able to drill it and undo the stud without going through hours of headache. Thanks for the video! It helped out tremendously. I've been frustrated with the dripping oil for years. Now its clean and I can park on my driveway again. I think between my son & I we spent 8 hours doing the work. We didn't do anything with the distributor since it was done last year. Nor did we change the main seal behind the harmonic balancer. All our time was spent on that pesky oil pump seal. I'm so glad I found this video. You are great at explaining and showing the details needed to do a job. Thanks again.

[@Texasknowhow]

Herk Wright - you are welcome! Glad you got it fixed!

[@VIN-7567]

This helped my dad alot, he thought he had to change the crank sharp front seal, but after seeing the video he knew it was the oil pump gasket. Thanks for the video, you saved my dad a couple chromosomes.

[@frankcoughlan2162]

From Frank in Outback (Broken Hill), Australia: G'day mate.., thanks for your videos, they've been very helpful, and informative. I would like to apologise in advance for the length of this post, but please bear with me. I own a 1995, 80 series Cruiser, with over 400,000kms on the clock. The engine had never been touched from the time it was built (Sept 1995), until Sept 2020. Effectively, I was pretty well forced to conduct a complete top-end rebuild late in 2020 (head-gasket, head-shave, valve-grind, timing chain, etc.), basically everything short of the pistons and big-end bearings, all of which (surprisingly), were in really good condition. It's just as well that I did give the old girl an overhaul, because with the amount of oil leaks, and built-up, burnt oil everywhere and on every surface, I'm astounded that it still fired up. Several gallons of degreaser, thinners, and much scraping with chisels later, I managed to get it all cleaned out. Regarding the distributor, I have been getting oil inside the unit, and it wasn't until I saw this video, that my suspicions about an internal shaft seal, were confirmed. The main problem with oil inside the distributor is that, as the shaft and rotor button spin, they literally atomise the oil, and spread it all over the magnets, cables, and spark-plug terminals. This causes no end of shorting out, and then mis-firing and back-firing, to the extent that the car won't run. I haven't been able to find anywhere here (in Oz), that I can obtain a new seal for the shaft, so I'm installing a new, complete distributor assembly (at least I'll have some spare bits if the new one plays up.!). Regarding the Harmonic Balancer bolt, and its removal and reinstallation. I appreciate the demonstration with the 3/4" breaker bar, however, it can be a bit dodgy if it slips, with the potential to hurt yourself. I had a mate manufacture a tool that would bolt onto the pulley, and would jam hard against either side of the engine bay. Without wishing to promote another mechanic's site, I found the design for the tool on the 'OTRAMM' site, on the video explaining how to replace the Oil Pump Cover Seal, and the Front Crank Shaft Seal. Basically, the tool is a circular piece of 1/4inch steel, with a hole in the centre, large enough to fit the 30mm socket that's needed to access the HB bolt. It's made to fit inside the outer rim of the HB pulley, and has 2 holes drilled in it, which match up with the bolt holes on the HB pulley. There is a length of 1/4inch steel bar, welded to the circle, slightly bent, so that it can rest against the wheel arch on either side of the engine bay, depending whether or not, you are removing or installing the bolt. It looks like a long, heavy steel lollipop with a hole in the middle. I have to say that it's brilliant.! I also found out that the reason that the HB bolt must be torqued down to 312ft/lbs, is that the drive gear at the rear of the HB pulley, drives the oil pump, and in turn, the power-steering pump. If the HB bolt in not torqued to 312 ft/lbs, the friction ('crush' pressure), required between the back of the HB pulley, and the crank/timing gear drive gear (inside the timing chain cover), will not be enough, and the oil pump will slip and not engage, nor will the power-steering pump. Just as an aside, when I was re-assembling the engine, I used a high temperature sealer on every surface, even when there new gaskets installed. It was the same sealer that is used on the sump pans (recommended by Toyota). The end result is that there are no leaks anywhere.., so far. Thank you again for your videos.., I'll keep watching with interest.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks for the comments and explanations of those tools Frank. Glad my video(s) are helping you and others to this day! OTRAMM videos are great. I sub’d him years ago. Good man. I’ve seen that lollipop tool I think on his channel as well. Glad you are all sealed up and working again! Makes you feel so good when you fix your own vehicles don’t it?! Take care, Clay

[@frankcoughlan2162]

@@Texasknowhow : Cheers Clay, you're right about feeling good when you fix your own motors.., besides, it's a bloody sight cheaper than paying mega-bucks for some dealership to make massive profits from unsuspecting Cruiser owners. My dad taught me how to work on cars from the age of 8, and I've been doing it ever since. I'm not a mechanic by trade, I've been working as a therapist with the Royal Flying Doctor Service.., but in the travelling I've done in the bush around this huge country, if your truck dies, you've got to know how to fix it. The places I've been to are often 500kms from the nearest station (homestead/ranch). Anyway, thanks for getting back to me, keep up the good work.., I hope all is well in Texas.., cheers for now. Frank

[@rightyouareken7587]

Just finished replacing the o-ring on the shaft of the distributor on my 94'. It went very smooth and I'm going to tackle the the other oil leaks next week. Thanks for the posts Clay and couldn't have done it without you!

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad it helped you out Nick. Stop back by and give us an update, take care, Clay

[@tombyorn8278]

I would love to get my '95 that clean. You do a great job.

[@paulestrada67]

About to do my '95 and this is by far the best video I found. Extremely thankful that you took the time to post this. I hope you keep posting videos of your Land Cruiser fixes as I'm never getting rid of mine and want to learn from you. Thanks again

[@captaindork100]

I’m super glad you so thoroughly explain everything. Thank you. Gal, instead of guy, here .. just trying to learn what I can about my truck. So definitely big thank you for all the info and effort!

[@Texasknowhow]

@@captaindork100 - Glad it was helpful to you! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁

[@simonkearns6403]

Great video. Found it while searching for info as I was replacing radiator and water pump. Got a similar leak on my 94 FZJ80 with 250000 km on it, so after watching this and while radiator is out I will have a crack at exactly what you've done. Thanks for the video.

[@Texasknowhow]

+Simon Kearns Good idea Simon, best to get these done while you are already in there as it makes it a lot easier with the Radiator out. These fixes can be done without breaking the water system open, as I show, but easier still with it out. Glad it was helpful. Clay

[@delta6pk]

Thanks Clay. I've been in the process of base lining my 93 for the past year. Oil pump cover O ring and new screws have been sitting in a drawer for months. Once I found out the local guy wants to charge me $950 to do this job, I decided it's time to tackle it myself. I'll keep you posted. Keep up the great work!

[@ThePepperford]

Wow. What a great video. Been looking for something like this for ages. Now whether I tackle any of this is another story. Good to know some of the oil leak areas.

[@mikejohnson1447]

Clay, I appreciate the video. My '94 was leaking in all the same places. I'm in the midst of a mild restoration and your video was very helpful. Thanks!

[@Texasknowhow]

Awesome, glad to help another LC owner!

[@Ghostrider-71]

Excellent video. Seems like getting the crank bolt to break with your method…a threshold moment for sure. Made me nervous. I have a diesel 80 so a different set up but hopefully someday I will be able to a gas powered 80 owner. Thank you for posting.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man! Yeah, and I’d love to have a diesel one some day! Appreciate you man.

[@flexin81]

It's been said but want to say this is the one of the best and most informative vids I've watched. Recently purchased an fj80 and I def have the oil leak issues. This will def help me save some money. Great vid and thank u sir for taking the time to do it.

[@Texasknowhow]

You are welcome man. Glad it is helping you out. Take care and thanks for the complement, Clay

[@joshuadickson4033]

Man, oh man! Awesome video! The job went exactly as you demonstrated in the video. I used a ratchet to take out the 7 screws so I could really take my time and feel if they were about to strip. Didn't strip any of them and my 97 LC has 284,000! Did break a post on the water pump that holds the fan on....lol not in the video I guess. My favorite part was the breaker bar against the frame. Thank you for making this video. Ever in Reno, NV, I'll certainly buy you a beer!

[@Texasknowhow]

+Joshua Dickson If/when I come to Reno next, I'll take you up on the Beer! Thanks for the kind words and letting me know it helped you Joshua. BTW, my favorite part of the fix was the crank bolt as well.. haha. Take care, Clay

[@gbergma1]

Your video was very helpful, thank you for taking your time to do that. Anyone reading this, my only mistake in doing the job was not taking the battery box out in the beginning. I thought I could do it with it in, but ended up wasting more time trying to work around it then the 5-10 minutes to remove it. Also, I was lucky, no broken bits or fasteners, used a new impact grade #3 drive, and new replacement screws. My fan blade nuts were pretty shot so hindsight it would have been nice to put 4 new ones on, will have to do that soon. Thanks again.

[@Texasknowhow]

G B - Glad it helped man. That’s why I made a point about that battery and battery box at the beginning... haha

[@jedhafen]

Texas, I sware you are my new BEST friend!! I just got got those damn cover screws out and it wouldn't have happened without you. Yes I stripped 2 of them and the extraction kit you recommended worked wonders. I saved about $500 doing this myself and I'm going to spend that money on a new gun tomorrow! If you're ever in Utah, I want to buy you a Root Beer. Thank-you!!!! Jed

[@Texasknowhow]

Man you really should tackle it before the winter. I'm so glad I fixed these leaks - been leak-free ever since this was done/filmed. Great feeling. Thanks for watching and the kind comments! Clay

[@MarcoSanders]

Excellent material! Together with the mud write-up I am ready to heal my LX450 from leaking on my driveway!

[@andyl9060]

Clay really great job with this video. Watched it twice and things went like clockwork. I especially appreciate you breaking off the same oil pump cover bolt I did! I picked up the tool you recommended in advance and had that bolt out in about 15 minutes. Seeing as you saved me $1000 at the local shop I owe you at least a case of beer next time your up in Seattle! Looking forward to seeing other LC videos from you. Andy1997 LC

[@Texasknowhow]

Andy, sounds good brother. I have a niece up there now, may come see her and I'll look you up! Best of luck with your LC. They are great vehicles for sure. Take care and thanks for posting up how it went - was good to hear that the video prepared you (even for the broken bolt!). Clay

[@justincremdf]

Thanks for doing this video! I always enjoy your Texas knowhow. BTW that type of pump used for the oil pump here is called a progressive cavity pump. Stone reliable. Thanks again!

[@Texasknowhow]

Justin Cremer - makes sense on the name of this type pump. Glad you enjoyed the video Justin. I’m videoing a Timing belt replacement this weekend on a ‘99 4-Runner. Should be a good vid. Take care, Clay

[@naijakem]

after further investigation, it turns out the sound is coming from left side if engine bay...the culprit...alternator...bearings are failing. also came across timing cover leak as well. I thought maybe oil filter wasn't tightened properly, or maybe oil pan gasket failing. thanks, friend. keep coming with the good info. these a land cruisers are magnificent specimens of engineering

[@Texasknowhow]

Okay thanks for the update Max. Agree, good vehicles!

[@skhochay]

was about to do my LX450 same seals, the tips and technical editing that you show is priceless will save me ton of time - BIG thank to You camera Man and All who did this fantastic video. God Bless!

[@kylekyle7776]

Great video! Thanks for making this how-to video. Keep the 80 how-to videos coming please.

[@Texasknowhow]

+Kyle Skeen Will do! I've got plans for a few more videos when it warms up around here. C

[@Julianconanhernandez]

Just did the o ring seal & front main seal man, thank you so much for the video. Helped me 1000%

[@Texasknowhow]

Sweet! Glad to hear it helped Julian!

[@jgcruisers]

thank you. about to tackle mine. got pretty much everything, just finding time to do it. great content.

[@Texasknowhow]

Appreciate it man! Let us know how it goes after you knock it out.

[@chrish1850]

Great video. I just picked up a 93 fzj80 and will most likely. e utilizing your videos. thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@russellbaker7026]

This is a great video, Clay. Thanks so much for putting this together. Your detailed instructions are going to be very helpful for me when I tackle this job in a couple of months.

[@Texasknowhow]

You are welcome Russell. Thanks for the kind comments. Let us know how it goes when you tackle this repair and good luck! Clay

[@Salty-Sully]

Man oh man - thanks for listing all the part numbers as well. Made it easy as pie to go online and get em ordered. Now, along with your KZbin expertise, I feel confident going into this. Bueno!

[@Texasknowhow]

Adam Sullivan - Awesome! Thx for the feedback and watching Adam. Take care, Clay

[@ManCandy3456]

This is incredibly helpful, one of the best diy videos I've seen.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks for letting me know! I appreciate the support. Take care, Clay

[@kudraadk]

Great video and thank you. I too have been putting this job off. I've read a lot on the IH8MUD forum but was still thinking I'd have to pull the radiator. And now I understand what the 14mm socket trick is. Maybe all the oil I'm seeing is coming from the front and not the rear main seal.

[@VolkswagenDude181]

awesome video my 97 land cruiser leaks really bad as well and it looks as if its from the spots you tackled in the video so i think ill try this in the near future

[@krishan3515]

Well done. Keep the LC running. This really helped me. And very good explanation

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad it helped you out man. I'm lining up a few more fixes to my '96. Needs the ABS light debugged and I think I'll flush the transmission and go back with full synthetic fluid. Those will be videos I make. Take care, Clay

[@joescott690]

Thanks for the tips Clay. A buddy and I are about to tackle the front crankshaft seal on his 75' land cruiser.

[@Texasknowhow]

Great! Glad you are able to glen some info and knowhow from the videos. Not too sure of the differences on the year motor, but should be very similar. C

[@interactivebagel]

Awesome video, man. I need to do this on my '96. Been watching the oil leaking for like 2 years now and getting pretty tired of it.

[@miketaras8882]

I really enjoyed watching this video as my 97 is leaking in the same places. Very informative. Thanks!

[@TheCaodangquang]

awesome video...I don't even have a land cruiser yet...good tips for the 80 series...now I got to buy a TLC...so I can do this job! thanks.

[@nomercy0401]

i have one for sale a 1994 land cruiser in the bay area

[@jakedrob4617]

Excellent video...for whatever reason I can never picture the procedures when reading the walk through. I was not at all confident in doing this job and was starting to think I would be paying toyota 1200.00. After seeing this video, I am confident, and looking forward to this (unless bolts start to strip). Thanks again....you will have saved me 1194.00-I have to but the size 3 Phillips bit!

[@Texasknowhow]

@braknstuf, glad it helped you man. The greatest compliments are those where someone was able to succeed and it was our efforts that played a part in some way! Glad the repair went well and your 80 is in better shape now. Take care, Clay

[@jacksonchang8658]

Currently attemtping this along with spark plug tube gaskets. Waiting for part... yesterday i stripped a couple of my #3ph screws on the oil pump and broke two #3ph heads.... lol jesus u make it look easy. Amy advice? Im doing everything u did, scraping, and sprayed carb cleaner to get the gunk out. And also used an impact tool, but not an electic one.

[@Texasknowhow]

Okay, at this point, just drill them out. Preferably use a reverse spin bit (turns lefty loosey). As the drill bit cuts the head off the screw it may grip and turn it out if it's turning that way. If you can't find a left twist bit, no worries, just drill them out. When the head pops off (use a bit the size of the threaded part of the screw) stop drilling. Take the cover off and use vise grips to remove the rest of the screw. Best of luck, thanks for commenting and for the complement. Clay

[@TRAKMASTRT120TT]

Fabulous video ! I admire you work and explanations of all aspects of the work. Well done ! It inspires me to tackle my own oil leaks on my 96 Land Cruiser at 195000 miles.

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad it was helpful Marco! Your driveway will certainly be thankful and look much better! Take Care, Clay

[@drpatelnd10]

Excellent walk through. You nailed all the areas where someone could screw this up. It will definitely save me tons of time. Thank you (and your brother).

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad it was helpful. let us know how it goes for you. Good luck and take care, Clay

[@edwardbyron9611]

That's about the cleanest engine bay I've ever seen in one of these

[@Texasknowhow]

Edward Byron Thanks man, appreciate the complement. I try to keep the vehicles clean if i can. Take care, Clay

[@joxegoesacoustic3559]

Man, your videos are amazing! Wish you had more to be honest. Thanx! 🤙🏻

[@Texasknowhow]

I appreciate that Jose! Thanks for the encouragement.... I agree, need to make more Land Cruiser vids!

[@aronmonta8173]

Thank you for this video.. I'm about to do my Distributor O-ring on my 97 and this video is very helpful. thank you again!

[@jimbartlett5499]

One trick I learned when removing covers/parts with multiple fasteners is to break each bolt loose then replace them until you break them all free. Then go back and take them all out. This ensures the load isn't increased on the last bolt to come out.

[@Texasknowhow]

That is a very good point you make Jim. Thanks for chiming in with that and for watching the video. Hope it helped you out! Clay

[@Photostudioww]

kool video. im putting hex head flange bolt on that oil pump cover when i do mine.

[@Texasknowhow]

A1leejack, Appreciate that. This was a very satisfying repair as it make an immediate difference not leaking on the driveway! Take Care, Clay

[@BeeCeeNJ]

Great material. I have a '96 LC and it's leaking real bad. This vid will come in handy. Nice, clear instruction. Subscribed!

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man! Glad you guys are digging these how-to videos. As I repair mine, I'm just trying to help the folks in the same boat. Take Care, Clay

[@vargas333]

Very informative video man, good job. I think I decided that I’m going to pull my engine out. Don’t want to but it’s coated in oil and I feel like it would just be easier to clean all the mess😩😩😩

[@Texasknowhow]

Yeah, if you end up pulling it you can do so much more to complete a “reseal” of the engine. Get that Pesky Heater Hose on the back of the engine as well. Good luck with it!

[@vargas333]

@@Texasknowhow I had ordered that years ago just in case.

[@Texasknowhow]

@Benchandler80, Thanks for watching and for letting us know if was helpful - hope your repairs go well! Take care, Clay

[@rsael2]

Clay; It's very excellant and Nice video. I agree with Jason Sigmon about using a hand impact driver, we are using a hand impact driver in aircraft maintenance procedures ( daily process ) . You should use Anti-seize compound . Thanks; Hajazi Aseil, an Arab aircraft engineer and FAA, A&P, IA inspector

[@thesuperisss]

i have the same cruiser and it leaks as hell, this video made my day, i will order orings and tooling for this job and will fi it, thanks for tips, great job!!!!

[@manuelvalencia9506]

Dude.. Thank you for making this vid! Just awesome to be able to follow your video as I went alogn and did all the seals! I owe you a few beers if you are in Arizona some day!

[@Texasknowhow]

+Manuel Valencia Okay, I'll hold you to that promise if I make it out there to AZ! Glad it helped you man, take care, enjoy the LC! Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

@Sergey, Thanks man! This video has been helping several others as well. The fixes can be intimidating until it's broken down for you and that was my intent with this video. I also wanted to say thanks to you for recognizing the camera work. My son is really coming into his own with the Videography and knows what I need him to do in terns of zoom or not with no queuing from me. He was happy to see the recognition. ;) Take care my friend, Clay

[@jonesgerard]

Those Milwaukee lithium tools are the cats meow, I tried the 3/8 drive 12v ratchet wrench and loved it, so I went out and got the 18v 1/2inch impact wrench, my air tools don't see any use now. On those stubborn screws, I think I would pull the radiator for something like that, being able to get at it straight on really helps, then use an impact driver...the type that you hit with a hammer ( $25 at Sears). Or resort to the blue wrench, propane heat solves many problems. :)

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man! It was a lot of footage and some serious post shoot editing but it finally came together. Thanks for telling me about the PS pump as well. No problem posting on Mud at all. Take care, Clay

[@Tri-StarTurfSolutions]

thanks for the video, i'll be doing these soon, possibly the PS pump and/or gear box and the timing chain slipper tensioner... debating pulling the whole motor since I hear I have to pull the head to get the front cover off. I've got twice as much oil under mine and had to scrape the front to see the timing marks! Subscribed!

[@cascade8018]

Excellent, excellent video. I will be tackling this project soon. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.

[@jedhafen]

You're welcome. ...and what is subbing anyway?? Also wanted to mention I thought I would try cracking the crank pulley bolt with my good old American made (Proto) 1/2" drive breaker bar just to see if I would get lucky.... Nope. Snapped the end right off. You really do need a 3/4" breaker bar to bust that puppy loose. Just watched your canister swap and I think that's the next fix on my list. Thanks again, Jed

[@onssse]

thank you Sir for the video! I have a '93 80 series.. and has a bunch of oil leaks. This video may be the answer. thanks again

[@Texasknowhow]

Guys, thanks for all the compliments on this video; it is certainly one of my most watched videos and it sounds like it's been helping a lot of Land Cruiser owners to fix those pesky leaks. I've hit 1900 subscribers and I plan to do a give away of some sort at the 2000 mark, so stay tuned to the channel and tell someone about it if it may help them out! Take care, Clay

[@weiliguan8172]

Keep up the great videos -- they're very informative.

[@badmofo]

I have a suggestion. Use the black impact rated bits to remove the phillips screws, the tips are MUCH less prone to breakage than the standard grey ones.

[@Texasknowhow]

B Friend - great tip!

[@kimoclyde]

A little bit of PB Blaster on those screws might have helped out that one troublesome screw. Also, there are replacement screws available with torx heads.

[@justliketolook]

I have found the square head with 4 sides are the strongest and the hex with 6 sides is next in line . The torx heads are 6 sided but are more rounded and really made for robotic use because they make it easier to lineup so your getting a greater chance of slippage with the torx . That's why they make the ranches head 4 sides .The more parallel you have the slots the more grip you get ,any rounding or flaring you have the less grip you have so I would stick to hex and not torx head . . Do you have a link or any info on the size of the screws needed to replace the phillips head ?

[@ndl8nlow]

GREAT VIDEO !! Do you have a video on rear main seal replacement

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks! No, I still need to get to my rear main seal. Sorry about that. Glad this one helped you out tho.

[@503blakk]

Great video bro. I'm planning on using it this summer to repair my fj80.

[@Texasknowhow]

Nice! Glad it was helpful. It's not extremely difficult to do, but does take a few steps and some patience. Let us know how it goes when you get it knocked out, take care, C

[@joehunolt9635]

Very informative. Top notch narrative.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks again Joe. Glad these are helping you out man. Stay in touch and let us know how your upgrades/fixes are going on your '96!

[@jimgray8130]

Excellent video. Thank you. I am about to do the same job and this helps and gives me confidence.

[@Texasknowhow]

+Jim Gray Awesome Jim, glad it will help you. This isn't that hard, but takes some time and patience. Plan a long Saturday or part of a Saturday and some of Sunday haha. Take care and thanks for letting me know, Clay

[@CEEPMDEE]

Maaaan.. I could hug you. great videos. Already helped out a bunch.

[@Texasknowhow]

Great, glad it's helping you! That's why I do this stuff, appreciate the comment, take care, Clay

[@ADCE63]

Wonderfull video..I am a new 80 owner... Thank's for it

[@masterfab23]

Damn good video, I have a 96 with factory lockers. Props to the cameraman as well. I just replaced my ps pump with a used oem unit with low miles. Not a pain in the ass, just sucked doing it in my parking lot while it was snowing and below 0. Plenty of good write ups on ih8mud on it. Put a tsp of Downey to quite the squeal down from using crappy non syn atf. Mind if I post this on mud?

[@michaelwilson4379]

thanks for the video man, it made me aware of you can strip those oil cover screws, i got them all off , i removed the radiator though and , got impact driver and smashed the screws it wasnt easy as the impact driver i had didnt do the job however smashing the would not do any harm, then i took the 3 mm bi8t out of the impact driver and used a spanner on the end, i cracked them all off man they were hard it had taken me an hour to get them off because i did take my time as i didnt want to strip them, all good though cracked them all, taking your time is important with those screws, really though thanks for the video it made me aware before i did the job

[@Texasknowhow]

You are welcome sir. Yeah, I didn't want to break open the coolant system. So I did it the way I did. If you are removing the radiator for other repairs or maintenance it is easier with that radiator out of the way for sure. Thanks for the comment and take care, Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

Yeah, I may be in Utah on Business from time to time so I'll look you up Jed! Maybe we can go wheelin in your Land Cruiser! Glad the video helped you out and thanks for commenting and letting us know you enjoyed it. Those screws are a bear for sure. Oh, and thanks for subbing! Take Care, Clay

[@1mach28914u1]

Great video

[@GuillaumeDriscoll]

Thank you for the super clear instructions. Learned a lot.

[@Texasknowhow]

@kudraadk, Appreciate the positive feedback brother. Jump in there, it should go well. As someone comment on the IH8MUD site, if the screws on the oil pump cover start to give you trouble just drill them out... you'll have the new ones anyway and the screw shafts seem to turn out pretty easy after you get the cover off. re the rear seal... I think mine is leaking for sure. Next Video??... Take care, Clay

[@79ramcharger79]

Helpful video. For others watching this--don't use the impact drill to remove these. The simple wrench on bit would have prevented the hassle you see here with the broken bit tip. The bit tip + too much hammering+impact = snap. 2-3 taps is sufficient, 20 is way to many. Other than that, looks well done.

[@Texasknowhow]

I would use the impact again if and when I do this job on mine or someone else's vehicle - no questions. I started with the wrench on the bit and it was tough going. The mistake I made was two fold 1.) using a cheap bit from one of those 150 count bit kits from HF and 2.) running the impact too long on this one bit as you say. I should have went to an alternate method after just a little trying. all the other screws came out perfect with the impact. thanks for watching and for the comments! Clay

[@jchipp]

Great video! I just did this repair this last weekend, and your video was a great guide. I was lucky enough not to break a bit. The screw that you broke your bit off in, was also the tightest on my FJ80. Anyway, my repair went pretty smooth, thanks to your video. Did you ever publish your oil pan video? Did you ever replace your rear seal? I think I have a rear seal leak as well, but I may just have to live with it...

[@Texasknowhow]

That great to hear Justin! Glad the video helped you get through that repair. And now you are a little more familiar with your FJ80 to boot! Thanks for commenting and letting me know, it means a lot that I've been able to help in some way. Take care, Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

Forgot to answer your questions Justin... I have video of the oil pan but have not completed the final compilation still. I have not replaced the rear seal, but I know for sure I'm loosing oil there. My new shop (we are in the process of a move and are now in TX) will have a vehicle lift (been a long time coming) and I'm going to tackle the rear seal with the help of that lift. I will get to the videos again soon. C

[@Benchandler80]

Great work, I have been putting of doing this until now. Great help seeing it done.

[@Texasknowhow]

Thanks man. That was a difficult filming due to the constrained area and just all the steps, etc. Appreciate the comment. Clay

[@humbertomoro5975]

I finish the job an 36 hours, because I broke one radiator fitting. But, I use my ingénue and fixed.1-I installed an auxiliary cool systems for the transmission oil.2-I replace the two fittings with two nuts and washers.3-Also I used two rubber washers,, like same you will found an hose garden.4-I drove my LC 80 for 5 hours and everything was ok.5-I put back the same radiator with my invention.Thanks ..................

[@pusherpilot]

THANK YOU! I am about to remove my engine on my 96 cruiser.. This gives me a good heads up.

[@Texasknowhow]

Great, glad it helped orient you to the engine and accessories that bolt on, etc. Why are you pulling the engine if I may ask? I've thought about pulling mine to do the rear main seal replacement... may be easier that way.

[@pusherpilot]

Mine has a rear main seal leak. I want to replace all the seals since it is now 20 years old. The seller tell me that it had a head gasket leak that was repaired with steel seal. I want to replace the head gasket. I just bought the vehicle the other day knowing it needed this work but I am up for it. I am also posting my video's related to what I am doing with this vehicle. Check out my video that I just posted on it. The sun roof is not working,needs to be painted as well. Transmission and transfer case is perfect. Anyway, I would love to talk this stuff all day but.....O by the way I live in West Monroe, LA. Maybe go wheeling some day when finished.

[@g2gequipment789]

question: I paid a reputable car repair shop that works on Off road vehicles to install a new Toyota OEM shaft seal and within one week it's leaking terribly - Any ideas on what might be wrong

[@Texasknowhow]

G2G Equipment - I would certainly take it back. If you are positive they really replaced it, it could be that they set it too far in or not enough in. Sometimes the old seal has worn a groove in the balancer (what the seal seals to) and if they put the new seal in the exact same location it won’t work well. Have to get it just past that worn groove or stop short so the new seal lip will ride just in front of the groove. Sorry you are having troubles man.

[@Texasknowhow]

G2G Equipment - also, if the balancer does have a bad groove it’s best to replace it with the new seal. If the didn’t replace the oil pump cover gasket, it could be that leaking. I would do them both if I was already that much torn down.

[@A1leejack]

Great Video- Thanks for taking the time to record this!

[@elpachi222]

Thank you for sharing this video. It was an easy project, thanks to you

[@Texasknowhow]

I hear you Jake, I will be releasing more vids in the near future, I've done the diff oil change & transfer case - just need to wrap up the post processing and get it up here. The coolant drain and replace is really easy one, I did that to base-line my 80S when I got it a little over a year ago. I also flushed it with a simple kit from the auto parts store. highly recommend this BTW. Thanks for the comments, take care, Clay

[@arielmarin6968]

Man cool video my friend . what a great job

[@Texasknowhow]

ariel marin - Thank you, appreciate the comment. Hopefully it will help you out. Clay

[@gadgetphilosophy8290]

Dude. Great video. Very well explained.

[@Texasknowhow]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the support! Clay

[@Texasknowhow]

good to hear! Glad the video was helpful. Take Care, Clay

[@bruce12393]

Thanks. You explained that really well. Subscribing today. 👍🏽

[@rahalati]

Oh man, I like the way you explain things. @11:55 you mentioned that you change your oil every 35 k to 40 k … what type of oil you are using, that seems alot

[@Texasknowhow]

HAHa, no way man, I re-listened to it and I said, "I change my oil every 35 (hundred implied) to 4 thousand miles. I use full synthetic now and I do go to 6k miles. It always looks dirty but good at 6K mi. Thanks for the question, I hope everyone else was understanding my Texas Lingo... Take Care, Clay

[@rahalati]

@@Texasknowhow sorry, you are right

[@cruizahawk2380]

Great video mate liked & subd, do i have to change the dizzy roter when i do this or you just changed it because you were ther anyway ???

[@Texasknowhow]

cruiza Hawk - I just needed to change mine. They are low cost (relatively) so a good time to swap it out for a new one. Glad it helped you - Thanks for the comments and for the support/subscribing. Have a good one, Clay

[@jeffsharp6533]

Great Video !!! Getting ready to do this job myself... BTW do you still have Land Cruiser ?

[@Texasknowhow]

I sure do! Still love it and drive it but not my daily anymore- it’s at around 230k miles. Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@garenambartsumyan9796]

Thank you!! This was a great vid!!

[@humbertomoro5975]

Excellent video. The information do you provide trough the video was grateful and help me a lot................Thanks, HMA

[@Texasknowhow]

+Humberto Moro Great! Glad it was useful to you Humberto. I hope your repair goes smoothly. Take care, Clay

[@chrisk6309]

Hey Clay, thanks for making this video! I've got a leak from the oil pump but not the crankshaft seal. Is it necessary to remove the main pulley to just get to the oil pump seal or should I go ahead and buy the other seal and do it all at once?

[@Texasknowhow]

Chris Karamales - I would do it all together. My luck, it would start leaking within a month if I didn’t change it! Haha. But also, if I recall, I think a few of the lower screws for the oil pump cover are behind the Harmonic Balancer. You won’t be able to get those out unless you pull that off. Do the seal man.

[@иваниванов-р4х2ф]

It would be interesting to see the replacement crankshaft rear oil seal!

[@mecawa01]

Thank you so much for this relevant video Clay !!! I am about to begin but I just want to make sure that I understood the procedure to change the crank seal. It's clear for how to remove the nut by using a 3/4-in breaker bar with a 30mm impact socket but not so to put it back. I just need to put a 14mm socket into the bolt located in the oil inspection compartment (at 37min of the video) while using a 3/4-in torque wrench that will allow me to force on the nut in order to fix it back?

[@Texasknowhow]

Yes, you have it right. There will be several 14mm bolt heads inside where the inspection cover is. That is the flywheel/torque converter you are seeing; put the socket on one of those bolts while someone begins to tighten the crankshaft bolt. As the flywheel turns, the socket will lodge against the inspection cover hole edge, this will lock the flywheel in place. Go help your helper to put the right torque on the crank bolt. That's it!

[@mecawa01]

What a fast answer! You're so helpful Clay, you made my day! Have a nice one

[@jackjinbox]

Great video mate, I am assuming the job would be very similar to replace the oil pump seal on FZJ105R

[@Texasknowhow]

jackjinbox - Thanks man! I can’t say for the 105, haven’t worked on one yet. Much of Toyota’s engines are similar and it could be almost the same. Cheers, Clay

[@SanJuanIslandsTV]

I'm a little worried about breaking the oil pump cover screws. I wonder if warming the engine up and then using a little electronic component cooler on the screw heads would cause the screw to contract enough to ease removal. Thanks for a great video. I'm facing the same work. Losing almost a quart per 500 miles.

[@Texasknowhow]

Juan Chevalier -that's a good idea. Can sure try the component cooler. I didn't have one.