89-95 Toyota Pickup water leaking inside on floor mat driver's side / fender removal overview

[@kevinarndt1328]

I had a 1994 Extra cab that had extensive rust on each side , and just inside the drain holes where you're videoing. I would highly recommend removing the wipers and the cowl to gain access to the large void area across and below the windshield. In addition to other areas, you'll be able to inspect the inside wall where the cutout is for the drain hole. My truck had a build up of redwood/ doug fire leaves sitting in that void area for a number of years and rusted out the body at that point. As you use sealant to repair suspect places, remember to fair it into the surface as to not form a dam that blocks the flow of water run off. I bought that truck new and sold it in 2020 (at 134K miles) and then bought a 2020 Tacoma extracab Sport. I see a lot of similarities in the body construction between the 2 trucks, at least in this area.

[@ray5961]

Thanks for the heads up on all that. When I first bought my truck (4 or 5 years ago), I did remove the cowl and check down in there and vacuum out all the stuff and made sure there was no rust. I had previously owned a 1966 mustang which rusted just as you describe and allowed water in. On my truck, I think it's coming from the rust hole I showed in the video. I just cleaned that area out and patched it with sealant, so I think I'm probably okay for the time being. I may upload an unlisted video showing the repair / sealant and link it just in the description of this video tomorrow.

[@kevinarndt1328]

drive.google.com/file/d/1CAOwiTadh6nrSMuHehruTdlFZxpY6n9n/view?usp=drive_link This is one side of my '94 looked like with the rusty metal cut away. I couldn't fit a patch of sheet steel and MIG it in so I treated it with POR15 then fiberglassed a patch over the gap. @@ray5961

[@cbh148]

My '94 has leaked some drops onto the passenger front floor mat on about 4 different occasions over the 8 years I've had it. Not sure why it's so infrequent as we get lots of rain here in North Alabama. It did this before and after getting the windshield replaced, but I've never looked that hard for where it's getting in other than pouring some water on the windshield and cowling then looking under the dash, but of course it won't leak when I look for it. I'll have to check that corner drainage structure on the cab frame that you look at in the video. Thanks for posting!

[@ray5961]

Mine leaks sometimes when it rains, but not other times. The last couple of rains, there was a growing puddle of water on the floor mat. I finally decided to have a look. Definitely found some suspicious areas to seal up under there. We'll see if it resolves the issue, although I don't really like leaving my truck out in the rain if I can avoid it.

[@adamsmiddy]

30 seconds in, see 1990 Toyota, I push like.

[@ray5961]

Thanks brother! :)

[@fiys567]

I was looking into removing the fender on my 95 pickup but for some reason the bolt on the top right between the cowl and door just keeps spinning is there a nut holding it in place?

[@ray5961]

There is a nut tack welded to the body I would imagine. If it's spinning around, the spot welds behind there may have let go. To grab the backside you might have to pull the dash.. not sure. The bolt should just come right out.

[@JamesBowling-vy8eq]

I'm curious why you did away with the fender wells?

[@ray5961]

Several reasons: first is for better clearance for my larger wheels/tires. Second is because the fender liners trap dirt which promotes rust on the body. It's always a good idea to check the area down there by the bottom of the fender near where the door is.. that area can trap dirt and moisture and it can rust out both the fender and body of the truck. On my friend's truck (the one in my video where we did the dual row upgrade and the coil swap), his passenger side fender was totally rusts out down low and on the driver's side, so much crap was stuck back there it started rusting the lower rocker area. I removed all mine and threw them into the trash. They are just always in the way.. maybe if you are going off-road a lot they help cut down on rocks getting throw up a bit and making noise, but otherwise I don't think they serve much purpose for a largely road driven truck.

[@JamesBowling-vy8eq]

Thanks for replying.

[@ray5961]

@@JamesBowling-vy8eq anytime!

[@Snail_Shell]

Thanks for the video Ray. Unrelated question, where is the air intake hole on your airbox? Is it stock or modified? I just went back to stock air filtration and not certain if I have the correct airbox for my 94 Pickup. Always appreciate your videos, looking forward to part 2 of the best upgrades.

[@ray5961]

Thank you and yes, I have the stock air box on my truck. If you are standing in front of the truck, looking into the engine compartment, the hole is on the left side of the box, kinda towards the back lower corner of the box. Then a plastic hose pops into that and runs up to a hole in the front part of the grill area, right next to the radiator over flow tank. If you jump to the time stamp 7:25 in this video here, you can kinda see mine in the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJS5dZilqq2dfacsi=-BRypOI8kT_yMuu5&t=445 The only thing I have done is to cut the plastic flap that hangs down in the front of the tube (the part which faces the incoming air) to help promote a bit more air flow; otherwise, it's all stock and I'm just using that blue filter mentioned in the 10 best upgrade options (and part 2 of that video should be coming in a few more months - there weather over here is just a little wet, so haven't been making too many videos outside).

[@Jus-k2m]

Could you do a youtube short of your exhaust sound at idle and some reving? Great video always looking out for your updates👌🏽

[@ray5961]

Yeah, I'll see what I can do soon here.

[@lexannaamnell6593]

I have this same exact problem on the driver side luckily I have a vinyl floor covering so it's not a terribly huge issue, but some does get under it. Interested to see what you discover 😊

[@lexannaamnell6593]

Side note, I was wondering if you had any insight as to why my 22RE runs rich. Everything's basically new, new plugs new air filter new TPS sensor I even cracked open The AFM and moved it over a few notches... But under hard acceleration my little 22 wants to think it's a diesel 😂

[@ray5961]

I haven't had the truck out in the rain, but I might park it outside next week (rain is scheduled up here). After posting this video, I ended up doing the passenger side as well. It had some small areas which looked suspect so I sealed those also. I'll follow up in the video description soon as to whether or not the truck was able to survive future rain storms without further interior leaks.

[@ray5961]

@@lexannaamnell6593 Which direction did you move the AFM wheel? How many is "a few notches". Even 1 click on that wheel can have a noticeable impact on the A/F ratio when cruising. Just as an example, 1 click more rich on my truck knocked 2 miles per gallon (on average) off the typical MPG I was seeing around town.

[@lexannaamnell6593]

I believe it was 2 notches counter clockwise. I didn't really notice anything significant by do this though. Thank you for the reply 😊

[@ray5961]

@@lexannaamnell6593 Two notches CCW would lean things out. However, the ECU operates in two modes - open loop and closed loop. In closed loop (which is generally just cruising around part throttle), the ECU is continually making adjustments based on feedback once per second from the O2 sensors in the exhaust stream (primarily data from the upstream O2 sensor) - so even if you adjust the spring tension on the AFM to trick the ECU into running a bit more lean, it's actively battling against you attempting to obtain 14.7 AFR. So you are kind of pushing it more lean, but it's pushing back constantly to get more rich. Under load or harder acceleration, generally speaking the ECU will go into what's known as open loop operation. In this case, it does not use O2 data and instead (as far as I can understand) it relies more on TPS position and its base fuel map programming tables present in the ECU from the factory. I believe the ECU still is attempting to adjust the mixture in open loop but I'm not totally sure what data it's focused on. If you watch my video about the WOT micro switch mod, that will cause the ECU to go more rich, so it is looking at some of the data. That may be where the ECU is relying more closely on the signal from the AFM in terms of air volume. If you have leaned things out and thrown off the reading, that could explain why under acceleration the motor is leaning out a bit there (perhaps). Also, if the TPS isn't perfectly adjusted and/or if the AFM door is sticking or binding, it can really cause trouble for the ECU during that transition phase between closed vs. open loop operation. You might want to download the Toyota TCCS manual and read through it. It provides a great deal of information regarding the EFI system on the truck and what the computer is attempting to do under different circumstances. Here's a link to the PDF file --> www.autonerdz.com/yabbfiles/Attachments/TCCS__TOYOTA_COMPUTER_CONTROLLED_SYSTEM_.pdf