This video shows my 1990 Toyota pickup & discusses smooth vs. rough idle on the 22RE

[@Miles-wy1zr]

Here I was trying my best to make my little truck idle “smooth”. Lol. Good to know I’m not alone with the little jiggle. I have an automatic 94 2wd and it shakes a bit like yours. Especially in reverse. Eh. Like you, I’ll live with it.🤷🏻‍♂️ it’s smooth as butter when accelerating.

[@fiys567]

Man my shakes in reverse too I know exactly what you mean.

[@elroyjones1959]

Same here 92 model

[@e49erss]

@@elroyjones1959Recently installed a camshaft and also ported my heads with bigger valves and the shaking in reverse is way less violent now

[@Miles-wy1zr]

@@e49erssdamn that’s a lot of work. I’ll live with the violent shaking. Lol

[@mikeregan4505]

Ray. Here is one that will blow your mind and maybe help someone else. When I inherited my pickup it idled so bad. I spent a lot of time sealing all vacuum leaks but it still idled rough. I noticed that while it was running that the dipstick was dancing around in the tube at idle. After 33 years the rubber on the dipstick that seals the tube when inserted had shirked and was spitting oil out and causing a vacuum leak. Got a new oem dipstick from LCE and it runs so smooth now.

[@ray5961]

yes that gets a lot of people. I had to replace mine and also on my friend's truck. what vacuum are you pulling at idle now?

[@mikeregan4505]

Ray. I did not check vacuum but I raised my idle to 950 as you suggested. Received my Octane headlights yesterday but have not installed them yet. Thanks for the content. @@ray5961

[@evensteven821]

I built a 22r with a webber 32/36 for an 87 pickup I used to have. After I got all the vacuum leaks sealed up (mainly thanks to 1 piece adapter) it would idle so smooth I'd pull up to redlights and wonder if it was still running. I even had a friend that owned a 22re ride with me and mention it idled so much smoother than his 22re. Now that I have a 91 with the 22re, I see what he meant. The 22re seems to idle a little rougher than my tuned up 22r. The webber idled good and got great gas mileage (24 in a 4wd with stock tires) but dog slow. Topped out at 85 mph. Although, it could be the difference in the engines, the 87's engine had just been rebuilt with the whole engine re-machined and the 91 probably has 350k miles on it.

[@ray5961]

Yeah.. it's crazy right? My buddy has a 22RE w/ and automatic and it idles super smooth to where you almost can't tell if it's running or not. I have a ported head and street cam, which makes my idle a bit rough down around 800 RPM's so I tend to set the idle closer to 950-1000 - it's still a bit shaky. On my truck, I've got forged wheels and tires that are 29" and I can do maybe 105 or 110 top speed (although usually don't push things past 100 too often); but I can cruise all day long at 85 MPH and still get 23.5 to 24.5 MPG without too much trouble. 32/36 DGV is a good carb.. I've spent many hours rebuilding those and jetting them, etc. EFI is nice and it's cool that the computer can control stuff, but there's still a lot to be said for good 'ol carbs that are properly tuned and jetted (once the motor is up to temp I mean :-)

[@evensteven821]

@@ray5961 yeah in ways I still miss my carb. Tinkering with it was fun at times and a PITA others. Regardless, I've been pretty happy with the efi system so far. My only complaint is the fast idle up to operating temp. In the winter it just obliterates my fuel mileage slowly idling down from 2k rpm for 5-10 minutes. My carb could have fast idle kicked off after a minute and idle down to 700 before the temp gauge started to move.

[@ray5961]

@@evensteven821 Yeah the Idle Air Control valve is sort of a hassle at times. I have some videos showing how you can get in there and adjust it, but it can quickly become a can of worms. You can also totally disable it (for example if you usually just start your truck and go and don't need to idle at any stops or anything in the first 5-10 minutes). Basically you just put some tape over the IAC valve inlet hole just inside the throttle body (just be darn sure you wrap the lip over the edge so it doesn't end up sucked into the intake or something). I've done that routine for testing purposes and as long as you use some type of very thick / high quality tape, it usually will hold up pretty well in there. But yea, that idle up thing can be kind of a hassle at times. On my truck I have it adjusted such that it doesn't go clear up to 2K anymore, but rather more like 1200-1500 and then within 2-3 minutes it's mostly out of the loop. You could also have blockage in the hoses going to and from the IAC body and/or in the body itself - any loose RTV in the coolant system usually finds its way to those small coolant lines and blocks things off. You can check to see if the upper and lower IAC coolant supply hoses are keeping temp w/ the upper radiator hose - and if not, that suggests a blockage. Also the temp of the upper and lower hose should warm up exactly the same together. If the upper one gets hot but the lower one (these are the small coolant hoses that run to the throttle body) then there could be an internal blockage. When that happens, you are at the mercy of the overall intake manifold / engine compartment area warming to lower the idle RPM's as opposed to the coolant itself.

[@austinbrown1703]

Can you do a video on your gauges? Im specifically interested in how you mounted/ what you used for the gauges directly under the radio.

[@ray5961]

I used a mount similar to this one here on ebay - www.ebay.com/itm/134845428310 - although mine was metal and this one appears to be 3D printed. The person I bought my mount from no longer seemed to be selling on ebay. Under the radio are VDO gauges. I have a video on the channel which details them here kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6HYlX9nbsiHoZYsi=KiBbj7q0ycwyxckh

[@slightlypermafried]

Do you have a rear diff lock on yours? I love everything about my 2wd 89 except for the traction. Also I think your volts on the alternator is low, mine is around 13.5 at idle. And lambda is high. I ran some refurbished injectors that were maybe 5% bigger and it ran well but eventually failed smog years later. Went thru everything and noticed a high lambda around 1.0v at idle. Swapped the old injectors back in and it went bouncing from 0.1 - 0.9v and passed smog with ease. You've been way more in depth on the 22re than me but just throwing my experience out there

[@CNAEVR]

Ray, I've had a slow rear main leak for a couple weeks, and today I noticed my crankshaft pulley bolt is MISSING. Think there's any correlation? No change in vibration or idle characteristics. In fact, I think I caught it just in time, because the pulley doesn't seem to have backed out at all - thankfully.

[@ray5961]

Yikes... I don't think there should be too much correlation between the front pulley bolt stuff and a leaking rear main seal. Usually on the rear main, the seal wears a grove into the crank journal back there. On mine I believe I installed this on the crankshaft to fix that MircoSleeve crank saver # MS346 (LCE part # 1013080).

[@dougieF747]

Ray, love your truck. Where did you get your Mikalor clamps?

[@ray5961]

Thanks! I order them from a guy in Spain - he sells on eBay. Search eBay and you should run across him.

[@tedbastwock3810]

Miss your vids man, hope all is well

[@ray5961]

Thanks man! All is good here.. been wrenching on my girlfriend's Lexus. Should have some videos coming soon.

[@tedbastwock3810]

@@ray5961 fantastic, look forward to it, thanks for the update!

[@chefrobertcaldas]

Whats going on ray any new vids soon? Miss your channel

[@ray5961]

Should have a couple videos coming soon.. just been dealing with trying to sell my house and stuff. I'm still a live though :)

[@tommykron2984]

Thanks for the post. Really dig the steering wheel. It doesn’t happen to quick disconnect does it?

[@ray5961]

You already know the answer :-) kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6HYlX9nbsiHoZYsi=Uhztt1QdYsqqLOEX&t=76

[@fiys567]

I love your content man probably one of the only guys making good content on the 22re. I plan on installing a lce head soon and a cam from crower. How should I go about the coolant as they say the first 20 minutes of the cam is the most important time so should I break it in first and then purge the coolant.

[@ray5961]

Thanks! I appreciate that. Make sure to check the oil return hole on the LCE head there prior to installation. Some of those castings they use have small holes (I have several videos on the channel which cover it). If you properly fill the motor with coolant (purge air out through the hose leading to the top of the IAC valve as you fill), then you should be okay. It's more important to properly brushing in the cam lobes than anything else. Get the air purge funnel kit I show on some of my other videos from Amazon and just hook that up while you break in the cam.. you should be okay. Let me know if you have any questions on anything.

[@fiys567]

⁠@@ray5961sounds good I appreciate it. I actually have the funnel kit. Also how should I keep everything in timing when I replace the head. I was assuming just put everything on top dead center but I’m not sure how I would keep it there because of the timing chain unsure if it would fall off the sprocket. Also did you use any type of gasket sealer on the head and intake I’ve heard lc recommends something called gasgucinch something along those lines.

[@ray5961]

@@fiys567 Yeah, I cover some of that in the videos on my channel. I have a video recently where I had to pull the entire intake system off because I did not use sealer. Gasket Cinch is fine. I have used that. Last time I just used a thin layer of Ultra Black RTV on everything (see my video - I show it in great detail). And yes, you have to take steps to keep tension on the timing chain, etc. You don't want it jumping a tooth. Keep it taut and make marks to keep everything where it should, roll the motor over and confirm the cam sprocket timing mark is where it should be at TDC. LCE has a good video on timing things I think and I have a few which talk about it. Check out my channel.

[@fiys567]

@@ray5961i see I took a look at some really informative. How come you stopped deciding to use copper spray on your head gaskets. And do you ever reach out to lc about the casting problems for the oil return?

[@ray5961]

@@fiys567 Yes, I've spoken to the guys at LCE regarding the oil hole. They know about it. I don't use copper coat on head gaskets any longer. I like the Fel Pro Perma Torque gaskets for street motors. The PT gaskets have teflon so they can slip and slide under there a bit. No need to use copper sprays, etc.

[@fiys567]

I had a question about the 22re I recently noticed whenever I drive around for a while and park the truck for 30 minutes or so and turn it back on the idle is extremely low around 500ish and once I drive around it’s fine

[@ray5961]

Mine does the same thing. I think it's either a bug in the ECU or maybe something to do with the IAC valve not being perfectly adjusted (or functional) 100%

[@fiys567]

@@ray5961I’ve never touched my idle air control. Have you looked into fixing it yourself?

[@ray5961]

@@fiys567 I've messed around with things.. but I am starting to think it's just a glitch in the ECU software maybe. I have a wide band O2 controller and when it does what you are talking about, the mixture goes way lean (I can see it it happen in real time on the read out). So it's gotta be the ECU losing control of where the mixture is.. then it takes a while to walk it back to the correct air fuel ratio. I don't know if it might be a symptom of a dirty or bad O2 sensor, but that is something I'm going to check soon and see if it improves anything. Also, having a super free flowing exhaust may be a contributing factor, but again not totally sure.

[@fiys567]

@@ray5961I believe it honestly may be a glitch. I noticed that whenever this happens if I turn my ac on and then I turn it off the it runs how it’s supposed too which is around 850 rpms in park and 750ish in drive/reverse. If I don’t turn the ac when this happens the truck will be around 500 rpm’s in reverse and shake, but once you start driving it, it’ll go away.

[@fiys567]

@@ray5961I have heard it could also be the coolant temperature sensor. Which I just ordered a OEM replacement.

[@dsalyer2009]

Have a 1994 pickup with the 22re. Where can you get OEM parts especially electrical components?

[@ray5961]

I buy most of my OEM parts here: toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com or you can find them sometimes via Amazon or eBay if you include the part # and/or OEM "genuine", etc. in the search. LCE and 22re Performance and Yota Shop also. AISIN and Denso make most of the factory Toyota stuff.

[@evansanders71]

Agreed!

[@Darkjedi99]

Curious if you have any ideas what would cause a low stumbling idle on a hot restart, I just replaced all the injectors as one went out with factory oem refurbished units, but it did it prior to that, TPS is adjusted correctly, timing is spot on, the exhaust also kinda smells rich, I’m debating on drilling out the plug on the AFM meter and trying to adjust it.

[@ray5961]

Check to see if you are getting good coolant flow around the Idle Air Control valve. Sometimes if the IAC valve isn't getting enough flow around it and/or if your coolant level is low, it can cause it to not close fully and create that situation. You might also try pulling the 15A EFI fuse to reset the ECU and force it to re-map the fuel trim. What idle RPM's are you running? Most likely this wouldn't be cured by the adjustment screw on the AFM, so probably no need to start drilling things.

[@Darkjedi99]

@@ray5961 between 750-800 rpm’s set with a digital timing light,, on the hot restarts it will go down to 300 or 400 rpm’s then bounce back once I give it some gas.

[@ray5961]

@@Darkjedi99 Yeah, I mean mine does the same kinda routine. I was just driving down town and ran into a store. Oil temp was at 150 when I came back out and upon restart it dripped down to 500-550 RPM's until I gave it gas twice and got it to idle back up around 900-950 where I have it set. It may just be part of the ECU from Toyota and/or some confusion with the O2 sensors when hot. Usually when this happens on my truck, my A/F ratio goes pretty lean (1.12 to 1.13 lambda / 16.4+ AFR) and as you can imagine the truck doesn't enjoy idling well that lean.

[@Darkjedi99]

@@ray5961 could it be a fuel pressure regulator issue? Or Perhaps the fuel is boiling out of the rails

[@ray5961]

@@Darkjedi99 Hard to say.. but probably not related to fuel pressure. You can check the regulator using a vacuum pump if you have one handy. Just jumper Fp to B+ in the diag box to turn the fuel pump on (turn Ignition to ON). You will hear fuel flowing in the rail. If you apply vacuum, you should hear the tone change if the regulator is working. You might try running a can of Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner through your tank. That can help out sometimes. Check the inlet and outlet lines running to the Idle Air Control valve and make sure they are warm and coolant is flowing around them. I have what you are describing happen on my truck pretty often and as far as I know everything on my motor is working as it should be. I think it may just be something with the Toyota ECU from 1990's, but hard to know for sure.

[@fiys567]

Have you ever ran slightly colder spark plugs? I was wondering if I should run some as I have a ported head with bigger valves also have a cam

[@ray5961]

I've run W14, W16 and W20 heat ranges. W14's are hotter and work fine, but the internals of my motor are also ceramic coated. I think I'm back to running W16's right now. W20 were too cold. Unless you're running a higher compression ratio, I don't think you'd need to go W20 heat range. I'd try W16 or W14, then just read the plugs and see if there are any signs of the electrode melting over or any metal color build up on the plugs. As long as the plugs have a mild tan color on the insulator and the motor seems to run well, then you should be in the ball park. Stick to Denso brand. Just ported head and bigger cam shouldn't warrant cooler plugs. Higher compression ratio or forced induction, yes.. more flow, not so much.

[@evansanders71]

Did you notice a difference with the driven oil?

[@ray5961]

Too early to tell just yet.

[@fiys567]

Try out Schaefers 5w30 or valvoline extended protection high mileage max life. Schaefers is kind of hard to find but they have a super high additive pack. My 22re loves Schaefers. Believe I’m going to be switching back to valvoline because it’s pretty cheap and easy to find and I know you have low miles on your motor but high mileage will help your motor out and keep it cleaner.

[@ray5961]

@@fiys567 yes I have run that valvoline also and really like it. I'm switching over to it next oil change I think

[@RussellZita]

Where you locate at

[@ray5961]

We gonna hang out? :)

[@fiys567]

What do you run your ignition timing at?

[@ray5961]

7 to 7.5 degrees BTDC

[@fiys567]

@@ray5961Do you run higher octane gas? I have a really similar build same cam same head I just don’t have an adjustable timing gear.

[@ray5961]

@@fiys567 Yes, I always run 91 octane - which is the highest we have around here.

[@fiys567]

@@ray5961should I set ignition timing based off manufacture idle speed 750 or should it set it off mine which is 850ish. I just set timing to 6 with the spec idle speed

[@ray5961]

@@fiys567 Doesn't matter too much as long as you jumper the diag box Te to E1 (to put the ECU into set timing mode). I usually set my timing at around 850 to 900 also. 7 degrees, then pull the jumper and it should jump up to more like 13 degrees or so.

[@alexv4046]

I'm more annoyed with the loud engine noise from the lce street header on mine

[@ray5961]

Yeah, you can say that again. Same here