90-93 Honda Accord Front Brakes Replacement

1991 Honda Accord pads, rotors, and wheel bearing replacement. This covers the 90-93 Honda Accord Brakes. You must remove the wheel bearing to remove the rotors on the front of these fourth generation honda accord cars. I will link the Sunex Socket set I use below in my affiliate for amazon. Also, the part numbers will be located below as well.
Sunex 12 point set: amzn.to/3ExXV6m
Parts:
Rotors: Napa Rotors 4886111 (For Aisin brand calipers)
Pads: Napa Pads SS-7345-X (Aisin brand calipers)
Bearings: Master Pro Bearings 513098

[@HondaFan1989]

Just a tip for anyone watching this. The way to do this shown in this video is great if you have to replace the wheel bearing but if you don’t then what you do is disconnect upper and lower ball joint with a ball joint separator that you can buy at the auto parts store for $10-15 dollars. You can use that tool on the tie rod end too. Then you loosen the axle nut and pull the whole spindle off. Once you have that done you take two long bolts and thread them into the back of the bearing once you take all 4 hub to spindle bolts out. Smack on those bolts until hub assembly comes out. Then you can replace rotor and reverse to put back together. No need for shop press or slide hammers!

[@operationoverhaul]

Thanks for the tip. I should have mentioned how to do it without changing the bearings as well.

[@muchgreatness7497]

Hi, trying to wrap my head around your idea. Won't the race usually be stuck on the hub or does the whole bearing come out along with the hub? And what kind of level of knocking can we expect, reasonable or eviction level? How long for the bolts, 4-5 inches? Doing this job makes me wonder if Honda took a page from BMW that states: 'If by chance you have to do only this one thing, we'll make sure that you have to do a lot of other things also.'

[@HondaFan1989]

@@muchgreatness7497 when you are hitting the bolts on the back you are hitting the whole hub assembly out of the spindle. You aren’t seperating the bearing itself at all. As far as the length Of the bolts like an inch or two should be sufficient. Hope this helps.

[@thunderfuckedangel]

Great comment!!!

[@fyahdre8340]

Thank you for this wealth of information. But do you know what parts a required to do a captive rotor delete while retaining a 4lug setup?

[@operationoverhaul]

Your welcome and thank you for watching. Here is a parts list of what you would need. 1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Hubs OEM part # - 44600-YS8-A00 1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Rotors OEM Part # - 45251-S84-A01 1990-1998 Accord Front wheel bearing OEM Part # - 44200-SM1-008 1990-1998 Accord Front brake pads OEM Part # - 45022-SY8-A01

[@fyahdre8340]

@@operationoverhaul thank you very much

[@muchgreatness7497]

Thanks for the great video. I have a question. When I have tightened the 4 12 point bolts that hold the bearing/disc/hub onto spindle, I have a bit of play within the bearing itself. If I stand the spindle up and check the rotor, I can feel and hear a bit of side to side play. Is this normal? Somehow I'm not a big fan of it but maybe when the cv axle gets torqued up, it all comes together. Thanks for any help.

[@operationoverhaul]

Your welcome and thank you for viewing as well. My new ones had a small of amount of movement in them before torqueing the axle down, but after installing the axles I had no movement within the bearings. About how much movement do you think that it may have?

[@muchgreatness7497]

@@operationoverhaul Hi and thanks for the reply. In terms of how much movement, that one is hard to answer because I wouldn't know how to tell the difference between 1/64th" and 1/32" by eye. The inner bearing movement isn't very much but there's enough to notice and think about. However, just the fact that you also had some movement reassures me that maybe this is a normal thing for bearings to do and also, who cares what they do when they are disassembled, the important part is when the are on the car. I guess what got me a bit concerned was that when I put the bearing into the spindle, after I had cleaned in out, I could install and remove the bearing by hand, easily. The videos that I watched seemed to need some hammering or a press to re-insert the bearing into the spindle, so I started wondering if my spindle was finsihed, then I notice bearing movement --- (sigh) Makes for unhappiness! Right now I have both wheels apart but when I get the cv axles tight again, I'll report back. Maybe the 180 ft/lbs of torque makes 'em nice and snug...Thanks again!

[@SparklingRufus]

My friends has 93 accord , the 4 bolts holding (bearing,disc,hub) together is not 12mm , its 10mm.

[@ChuckWelsh]

Are the 1992 Accord Ex and LX the same rotors?

[@operationoverhaul]

Yes, the ex and lx use the same rotors. The wagon rotors are different from the sedan and coupe. The coupe and sedan use the same rotors.

[@kylefournier1018]

Did you mean 10 mill 12 point for those 4 bearing bolts?

[@operationoverhaul]

Yes they are 10mm 12 point. Sorry for the confusion

[@IdKhOwToPlAy80]

Do I have to turn the back caliper pistons to put it in?

[@operationoverhaul]

They should be press in pistons and to put them on you will need to push them in if you are using new pads

[@entreprengineer]

How about 94 Accord?

[@operationoverhaul]

It is pretty much that same procedure as the 90-93. I was just trying to keep it generation specific for searching purposes. But, it is the same procedure. You have to remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly to remove the rotors on it as well.

[@Jp-gd3jy]

you can't see what you're doing behind the caliper

[@operationoverhaul]

Sorry about that this was one of my earlier videos. There are two bolts for the caliper and two for the bracket.