$959* Mooncool MC E-TRI 350 Electric Trike - Unboxing, Assembly, Test Ride & Review

In this video we unbox, assemble, go over the controls, test ride and review the Mooncool MC E-TRI 350 Electric Trike
Mooncool MC E-TRI 350 Electric Trike
Mooncool Website: $1199.99 / 20% OFF / Event price: $959
www.mooncool.com/products/ele...
amzn.to/3JTNMFQ
Suggested bike tools from Amazon: amzn.to/41Wnnz2
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:45 Unboxing
2:28 Assembly Notes
3:30 Rear Derailleur on rear axle
4:13 Rear wheels
6:25 Rear axle to frame
8:20 Chain
9:24 Chain guard
9:48 Front fender and light (suggest installing after adjusting brake and derailleur)
10:30 Front brake disc
11:25 Front wheel
12:22 Handlebar
13:04 Seatpost
13:39 Pedals
13:59 Brake and derailleur cables
16:32 Rear fender (suggest installing after adjusting brake and derailleur)
17:03 Handlebar connectors
17:19 Headlight connector
17:42 Front hub connector
18:04 Basket
18:32 Battery overview
19:21 Install battery guide
19:52 Charge battery
3:35 Charging & Battery
20:18 Wheel reflectors
20:34 Handlebar parts overview
20:50 Controller overview
20:02 Change units from KMH to MPH
24:09 Inflate Tires & check everything
24:44 Accel and Max speed (pedal only)
28:08 Accel and Max speed (thumb throttle only)
29:45 Steering
32:31 Quick Brake Test
33:20 Conclusion Pros
33:53 Conclusions Suggestions
Motor: 350w brushless front motor
Max Speed: 15.5 MPH
Slope: 15deg
Battery: 36 V 10.4Ah Li-ion Battery
Range: Up to 25 miles
Brake: Front & Rear Disc braking
Weight: 70lbs
Load Capacity: 350lbs
Tires: 24" (as tested) or 26"
Cruise control: No
Headlight: Yes
Tail light: No
Dimensions: 30" wide x 69.8" long x 43.3 to 47.2" high
Rider height: 24" tires - 4'11" to 5'9". 26" tires - 5'3" to 6'2"
#etrike #electric #trike #mooncool

[@bernardsaint751]

EXCELLENT!! THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO PRODUCE THIS VALUBLE INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO! ...TIPS & TRICKS, SAVING OTHERS UNESSACARY HEADEACES. :)

[@ColinLeung]

You're welcome. It was a more difficult install than I originally thought, and hopefully it will allow people to consider if they want to attempt it!

[@jvillanueva2355]

Excellent, had this bike for months on Kilometers, going to be a lot easier with mph. THANK YOU!

[@ColinLeung]

I'm glad you were able to change the settings

[@Dopedude44]

Great video I appreciate the time u took , I am interested in it thank you again and don’t listen to the haters

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks for acknowledging the time and effort put in to record and edit the video. I appreciate the positive feedback. Negative feedback comes with the territory, and I'm used to it. Have a great day!

[@SocorroManhe]

Thank you so much for this video❤

[@ColinLeung]

You're welcome :)

[@shannonlaramie8712]

Do you have to pedal to for the electric motor to come on or can you just use the thumb throttle for the motor to work? Thanks

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Shannon, you can use the thumb throttle for the motor to work. Thanks

[@user-gf6yf7de3n]

nice, the car looks cool

[@ColinLeung]

Thanks!

[@josephwoehlerii2855]

All photos in instruction manual should be in color, the black and white photos are not clear enough for threading the chain thru the mechanism properly, I know because it happened to me. I had to search every ad I could find on ebay and youtube to find clear photos.

[@ColinLeung]

Sorry to hear about your experience. The manual that I had was in color.

[@josephwoehlerii2855]

That stuff happens, youtube came to the recue with all kinds of videos and I also found a few examples of the color pages on ebay with other sellers. Thank you for your positive outreach too. The bike kit I bought was a generic model, go figure. @@ColinLeung

[@redsorgum]

It's important to learn into the turn so the wheels won't come off. 🤙

[@ColinLeung]

Good tip. Thanks!

[@EileenGery]

I bought this trike. Having a hard time trying to figure out what's going on as the gears aren't shifting smoothly and won't stay in the gear I select while just pedaling. Also, my chain is a lot looser than what's shown in the video. I can't seem to find a video just on adjusting the derailleur so the chain doesn't jump from gear to gear. Any help would be appreciated.

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Eileen, adjusting derailleurs can be difficult as there are a lot of parts to factor. I haven't had a chance to look for a video explaining how to adjust it, but will try to explain over text referencing this rear derailleur image. www.sefiles.net/images/library/site/pict_rear-der_f.gif 1) Ensure the rear derailleur is installed properly. It should be flush against the derailleur hanger, and I recall having to push something in this video to fully screw it in. 2) On the rear shifter by the handlebar press the lever numerous times to release all tension from the line. You may be gear 1, or the highest number depending how your shifter is labeled. 3) Looking at the rear derailleur cable there will be cable adjustment barrels from the shifter to the rear derailleur. Turn all of them clockwise to release all slack from the cable. 4) Using an allen key loosen the bolt at the bottom of the rear derailleur holding the derailleur cable. Pull and hold the cable towards the front of the bike to pick up any cable slack, and retighten the bolt. The goal is to have some slack that we'll pick up with the rear derailleur adjustment barrel, but get rid of any excessive slack. 5) There are two (hi and low) screws on the side of the rear derailleur. They will set the lower and upper limits of the derailleur, so the chain doesn't slip off. Looking from the pulley at the back of the bike turn both clockwise, or counter clockwise to see which controls the lower limits. The pulley will move left or right. Adjust the lower until the rear derailleur holds the chain without slipping off. The derailleur pully should line up with the lowest cassette. If the lower limit is too high then it won't stay on the lowest cassette, and try to jump to the next cassette, so you'd have to loosen the lower limit. 6) Push the shifter lever one click to the next gear. This should be #2, or the second gear from the highest gear depending how your shifter is labeled. 7) With the rear wheel off the ground turn the pedals to rotate the rear wheel. The rear derailleur should not shift. If it does then there's too much tension in the line, and slack would need to be removed. See #4. 8) Turn the derailleur cable adjustment barrel counterclockwise in 1/4 turn increments to increase the tension in the line while spinning the wheel until the chain shifts to the next cassette. Looking from the back the pulley should line up with the 2nd cassette, or be very close. 9) Try shifting up through all gears first, and down through all gears. If it's trying to jump to the next gear turn the adjustment barrel clockwise in approximately 1/8 turn increments to release tension in the line. If it's not going to the next gear then turn the adjustment barrel in counterclockwise in approximately 1/8 turn increments to increase tension. Repeat several times until you can go up and down in all gears without it skipping. 10) At the highest gear adjust the hi limit screw, so the chain doesn't slip off. Similar to the lower adjustment screw. I hope this helps. I found this video, but haven't had time to watch it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5y9qYN_j5ahnbssi=i6eqcCx3tbM1SfLt

[@reginabuilders]

Having two issues after assemble. Derailer not hitting all gears no matter how I adjust it and was hoping that someone could tell me if there is a way of getting less of an assist as it accelerated very quickly and can be a bit dangerous. Can you help with this? Thanks again

[@ColinLeung]

Hello Regina, is the derailleur issue that the chain is not going to the largest cassette? My first thoughts would be there's not enough tension in the cable, or the derailleur limiter needs to be adjusted. Are you able to physically push the rear derailleur to line up with the largest cassette with your hands? If I recall there's no way of adjusting how much torque the motor provides with the pedal assist. You can go to pedal assist 1, so the bike won't go as fast.

[@Starbreaker666]

Our front wheel assembly was COMPLETELY different. in this video and in the instructions the hub wire goes THROUGH the axle assembly. On our trike the axle stud has a shallow U-groove that the wire sits in. It's FAR to shallow for the nut to screw over it. Awaiting fort MoonCool to get back to us.

[@ColinLeung]

Sorry to hear that. I hope they get back to you soon

[@ramonmendoza5434]

I just wish I could have that tricycle 😊 I m a senior citizen looking to purchase a meridian tricycle and don't have much to spare for financial support here in Sedona or.

[@nonosobit9034]

have anyone bought this bike, cause I never received my bike they said it was delivered but I only got the battery and pic from FedEx confirm I did not receive the bike. customer service sucks their is no c.s I tried to email, chat thru website and phone call it says the mailbox is full what a joke thank god I use my c.c to dispute it...

[@ColinLeung]

Sorry to hear that. I received the ebike as a sample for the video review, and they sent me the bike and battery separately. I'd suggest disputing the charge if they don't respond, and you don't receive the product.

[@kareemvitar6645]

Where's differential gears,i don't see'em?

[@ColinLeung]

The rear cassette is in the middle right of the rear axle. At 0:04 it's at the middle of the screen on the right below the basket.

[@bobwallace4198]

80 LBS !!!!!!

[@ColinLeung]

Yes, it's quite heavy, but it does have an electric motor, battery, two rear wheels and larger rear axle. Some ebikes with 2 wheels weigh that much.

[@DivergentDroid]

I see you do a number of these reviews on very over priced and inferior ebikes compared to even a lowly 150cc gas scooter - Why push this garbage Colin? What in your mind makes these any kind of viable option?

[@ColinLeung]

Hello DivergentDroid, As mentioned in my previous comment I strive to provide a variety of ebike reviews on my channel for my viewers. A majority of the ebikes are provided in exchange for a review for marketing purposes. I spend numerous hours recording and editing to provide free review content to viewers, and either give away products to friends and family, or sell them with a heavy discount to the community. I had a 150cc gas scooter, and it has its perks. Living in a urban city like San Francisco it is not always feasible to use a gas scooter. It requires a moped license to ride on the road, and is louder and smells compared to an electric scooter or bike. An electric scooter is better suited for quiet travel that you can bring on public transportation. Thank you

[@DivergentDroid]

@@ColinLeung I'm sure you wonder why I give you such a hard time over this issue. It's because promoting these companies is silly in todays climate. Nothing Green about ebikes, they cost more to produce because of the minerals used in batteries and computer parts. Nothing has changed since 2010 that would make the parts for these that much more expensive. You aka The Public are being Scammed by an industry that is playing both sides. You are very young so I don't expect you to understand these things based on your mainstream education which is really a lack of education and a whole lot of indoctrination. So they cost More to produce for what you get - they Don't Not harm the environment, they are slow charging for a much less range. The typical sound on a street is 70 DB - you won't get away from that by using a battery operated bike unless you are not in a city which makes the use of any ebike a dumb idea. There is No Up side at all to this technology you can show over traditional gas engine bikes. Thus, these things cause way more harm for the consumer in terms of price, efficiency, speed and range. In other words, the promise of an electricity fueled world as opposed to the very renewable source of petroleum is insane on all accounts. What you Don't have, what you will Never have is scientifically validated cause and effect proof of these toys being viable vs modern gas engines at this time. You waste everyone's time pushing these toys including your own and do a disservice to your viewers. My Mom is 95 and still driving her 12 cylinder car. If your viewers are having that much trouble driving where they have to consider a horrible idea of an ebike, they need to stop driving altogether because that's not going to do them any favors.

[@DivergentDroid]

Thanks for the Great Review Proving this is a piece of Trash any thinking man would never purchase. I hope you didn't lose 900 dollars on this fraud but that's your business. This "EV" and I do use the term Very Loosely Only has a Tiny 350w front-drive motor, a tiny 36v10.4Ah battery that supports a top speed of 15.5 mph and a range of 25 miles per full charge - which takes between 5 to 8 hours to charge. 900 bucks on this Childs Toy Really? Are you OUT of your Cotton Picking Mind? My DIY ebike for 700 dollars was WAY better and I built it 13 Years ago! 1500 w hub motor, 35 mph, 50 mile round trip No Pedaling at all! They are Pushing Garbage these days, Don't Waste your money! It still works Great after 13 years! Wanna buy it? No chance.

[@Yd618Mike]

The E Trike made by DIY and the E Trike produced by the manufacturer cannot be compared. Manufacturers will give you a lot of extra services (such as warranty), which also means that they also have a lot of extra costs. In addition, you can check the price of similar products on other platforms. Overall, the price is not higher than the market price. Of course, everyone can choose to buy their own accessories and then modify the tricycle.

[@DivergentDroid]

@@Yd618Mike You son are full of crap.

[@ColinLeung]

Hello DivergentDroid. Thank you for spending the time to share your opinion in this video's comment section, and I apologize that the e-trike reviewed did not meet your expectations. You are welcome to watch the video, or stop and move on. A DIY ebike for $700 13 years ago with the specs that you provided sounds like a great deal! Please note that the cost of materials and labor have increased since then, and unless you buy used, a new ebike setup with cheap non-reputable components may cost at least $800. Battery $250+, hub $250+, bike $250+, and tax. A majority of individuals do not have the desire or skillset to assemble a DIY ebike, nor like the look of a battery sticking out of the frame. They do not need to go more than 15mph, and would rather pay more for a prebuilt one that may have an integrated battery, mid-hub, lights, manufacture support, and warranty as another user mentioned. I have DIY ebike conversion video where I installed a $250 1000W front hub and spare 52V 17.5aH battery on a cheap $30 bike with a max speed of 30mph and range of 60+miles if that's more suited for you. Again that is only one video, and I strive to provide a variety of ebike reviews on my channel for my viewers. A majority of the ebikes are provided in exchange for a review for marketing purposes. I spend numerous hours recording and editing to provide free review content to viewers, and either give away products to friends and family, or sell them with a heavy discount to the community. Have a great day!

[@NicolaeOlteanu-ju9rr]

Cost.in.lei.unde.se.vinde